Provide self tanning services

Transcription

1 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services What you will learn Maintain safe and effective methods of working when providing self tanning treatments Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients Apply self tan products Provide aftercare advice 1

2 Unit B25 Introduction Self tanning is a very popular treatment in salons and is now at the forefront of public consciousness both through celebrity endorsement and the growing awareness of the dangers associated with regular ultraviolet (UV) tanning. There has been great advancement in the formulation of the products used in self tanning gone are the days of streaking and strong-smelling products. A polished tan is now easily applied and straightforward for therapists. It is important to stress that it is a salon treatment, rather than one the client can perform at home. Techniques are now so good that therapists can also perform body sculpting this involves highlighting muscle groups by adding defi nition through the use of clever shading. The client ends up with an all over, even glow with no strap marks or redness of the skin. Helps skin condition due to exfoliation and moisturising effect Not harmful to the skin Instant results Provide self tanning services Throughout history, people have had a close connection with the sun. Past civilisations worshipped and offered sacrifi ces to the sun god, who provided warmth and made crops grow. As cultures changed, so did our relationship with the sun. Skin colour became an indicator of social status, one that separated the working classes from the upper classes if you had a tan it meant you worked in the fi elds all day so people who didn t need to work went to great lengths to be pale. Some of them even risked poisoning themselves by using lead-based cosmetics to artifi cially whiten their skin. This continued until the early 1920s when the leading fashion icon Coco Chanel travelled back from the Mediterranean with a deep golden tan and bronzed skin become truly desirable. By the 1930s the suntan was an indicator of health, wealth and style and in the 1940s suntan lotion hit the market. At that time, it was designed to assist with the tanning process and not to protect skin from the sun s rays. Dermatological (skin) research now proves that regular tanning can lead to long-term damage. It can even reduce life expectancy, with incidences of skin cancer on the increase worldwide. Today, beaches are as busy as ever but most sunbathers are better at protecting their skin from the potentially harmful effects of tanning. Although people are now more aware of the dangers of regular tanning, they still want the healthy glow of a tan and so the need for an artifi cial tan was generated. Can help to even out pigmentation patches What is a tan? Benefits of self tanning: Makes the client feel better a good pick-me-up A suntan is a by-product of the action the skin takes when trying to protect itself from the sun s rays. Melanin production within the epidermis increases and the longer the exposure to UV rays, the darker the pigment becomes. How self tanning works Self tanning uses a form of vegetable dye which coats the very top layer of the epidermis the horny layer. Aside from the minimal risk of allergic reaction, the process is harmless and does no damage to the skin s structure, while producing differing levels of skin colour to suit individual client needs. The fi nished result will vary depending upon individual manufacturers products, the depth of application, the base shade of the skin to begin with and the type of product used. The end result of a self tanning treatment is also dependent upon the condition of the skin prior to treatment poor 2

3 The layers of the epidermis surfaces do not give an even finish and will provide a poor result. As self tanning products only coat the top layer of the epidermis, they only last for the life cycle of the cells. As the skin cells are shed or exfoliated then the tan will be lost, usually within a week of application. Refer to You and the skin, pages , and Anatomy and physiology, pages , for more information on the anatomy of the skin and the layers of the epidermis. Self tanning preparations can be applied to the face and the body. Most leading cosmetic houses and salon suppliers hold a range of self tanning products which are available as creams, gels, lotions, mousses, or wipes. There are now tanning booths available, where the product is sprayed on with an air gun to give an even, all-over application. Much research has gone into the development of staining agents to give a natural and lasting colour. When self tanning products first came onto the beauty market in the early 1960s, the overall effect was rather orange and not very natural looking. Now the products are coloured, instead of white, so that you can see where product has already been applied and where it is still needed. Advances in technology have removed the artificial smell associated with self tanning products and many now include added moisturisers to keep the skin supple and soft. Make-up bronzers and lipsticks are also available to enhance the golden tan effect. Methods of application 1 Manual application with a therapist carrying out the treatment using buffing mitts. 2 Airbrush application in a pod or booth with a therapist applying the tan using a spray gun. 3 Spray tanning booth that automatically dispenses product via fixed nozzles built into the machine no therapist required. Maintain safe and effective methods of working when providing self tanning treatments Provide self tanning services Unit B25 In this section you will learn about: Spray tanning can be carried out by the therapist or in an automated booth The Standards set out detailed performance criteria regarding: maintaining safe and effective methods of working when providing self tanning treatments consulting, planning and preparing for treatments with clients. 3

4 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services The majority of these requirements apply to all beauty therapy treatments and are therefore covered in detail in Professional Basics, pages 2 86, the Body consultation section, pages , and Unit G22 Monitor procedures to safely control work operations, pages (see the Level 3 Student Book). Page references will be provided to these sections where relevant. You should also refer back to You and the skin and Anatomy and physiology, as required. For information about your responsibilities under current health and safety legislation see You, your client and the law on pages Treatment-specific requirements for self tanning are covered within this unit. Setting up your treatment area How you set up your treatment area will depend upon your treatment a spray gun booth or pod will require a different set-up than that required for a manual tan, with the client on the couch. The same rules apply to any treatment; always be prepared, ensuring all equipment is readily to hand, and never leave your client unattended. Follow the five golden rules: 1 Always carry out a full consultation with your client to discover their needs, their expectations of treatment, medical history, allergies and so on. 2 Always run through a full contra-indication checklist with the client. 3 Always carry out a patch test to check suitability of products to be used. 4 Always follow manufacturer s instructions at each stage of the treatment. 5 Never use equipment you have not been trained to handle. Treatment room checklist Exfoliators Large bowl Skin oil Large bath sheet Product for self tanning (cream, gel, lotion or mousse) Waste bin Couch cover Couch and trolley 2 3 small hand towels Tissues Head band or complete hair covering cap Eye goggles Nose plugs Disposable panties or thong Disposable foot wear Barrier cream Clean, disposable gloves Distilled water for product dilution Cotton buds Cleanser/make-up remover Disposable couch roll. Client preparation before treatment The following advice should be given to clients before their treatment so they arrive at the salon fully prepared, and do not do anything which may reduce the effectiveness of their self tanning treatment. Advise clients to exfoliate and moisturise their skin regularly prior to having the treatment. This will ensure a smoother surface for the therapist to apply the tan and so achieve better results. Clients should wear loose clothing preferably dark in colour or bring something to change into which won t rub the skin and disturb the colour development. The tan fades fastest on areas where there is friction or close contact with the skin: the waistband of jeans, the hands, the tops of socks and so on. Any hair removal treatments should be carried out at least 24 hours before the tanning treatment to allow the skin time to heal and for any irritation to subside before self tanning products are applied. Clients should stop using other tanning products seven days before they have the treatment. If this advice is ignored, the quality and colour of the tan cannot be guaranteed. Brides are advised to have the treatment two days before their wedding. This allows them to adapt to their new tan. It is also advisable to have a trial run prior to the big day as the colour cannot be altered once it develops, and it could be too dark or look too artificial. 4

5 Think about it Personal protective equipment for both therapist and client As the therapist, you should always wear gloves and protective clothing such as an apron for the self tanning application, not only for hygiene but to prevent your hands from adsorbing too much of the product. If you were to carry out several tanning treatments a day, your hands would get darker and darker! As with all treatments, it is important that you ensure your personal hygiene, protection and appearance meet industry and organisational requirements before and during your treatments. Remember also to thoroughly disinfect your hands prior to treatment. For more information, see pages 8 and in Professional basics, You the therapist. The client needs to be in either disposable panties or their own swimwear, if they prefer, so that the tan is appropriate for the attire. This will avoid strap marks appearing or white skin showing if another leg line or neckline is chosen later. If the tan is to be all over the body, including the buttocks, the client should be in a disposable thong, or one of their own. Environmental conditions for tanning Refer to Professional basics, You and your working environment, pages for revision of acceptable environmental conditions for your client. As the client is in a state of undress, the room should be warm but not too hot. You should also ensure there is suitable ventilation to allow good air flow. This is especially important when using a spray gun, as it is possible to inhale the mist from the spray if you are too close the chemical composition may give the therapist a headache over a period of time with repeat treatments. Some manufacturers offer nose plugs for the client and a mask for the therapist to avoid any inhalation of product always refer to the manufacturer s instructions for the equipment you are using. Client modesty and wellbeing It is essential that client modesty is maintained at all times throughout the treatment, whichever type of treatment you are giving. The treatment room should be private and warm, so that the client feels comfortable when undressed and confident that the treatment will not be disturbed. Most clients will bring in their own swimwear or underwear to be worn during tanning and there are disposable panties or thongs available for single use, which can then be worn home, if required, or thrown away. Encourage the client to bring in their own underwear or swimwear if possible this means you can ensure that you are covering the areas required and there will be no white skin visible if the client later wears a differently shaped bikini top or bottom. Male clients should bring their normal swimming attire so that both legs and trunk can be tanned. Provide self tanning services Unit B25 Remember to check on the client s wellbeing at regular intervals during the self tanning treatment. If the client were to develop a contra-action, such as an allergic reaction to the products used, you need to be prepared to remove the products quickly and take the necessary action. It is important that the client wears the appropriate attire for a self tanning session 5

6 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services Consult, plan and prepare for treatments with clients In this section you will learn about: Client consultation techniques During the client consultation you will need to establish the client s requirements and what they are hoping to achieve from the treatment. You must use appropriate consultation and questioning techniques and be polite and friendly in your approach. Remember to allow time for the client to ask questions and encourage them to participate in a discussion. This will help to ensure that you have fully understood their expectations. For more information about consultation and questioning techniques, refer to Professional basics, You and your client, pages Client s skin colouring When carrying out the initial consultation it is important to consider the client s skin colouring and type. The ideal tanning result for the client is a natural and healthy glow to the skin, with an even finish. You should take time to explain to the client that the finished tan should be an enhancement of their natural colouring. So, if the client is naturally very pale, the skin should be given a golden honey colour by diluting the tanning product with moisturiser, rather than attempting to go very dark, which can look unnatural with fair hair or blue eyes. Again, refer to the manufacturer s instructions some airbrush tanning solutions can be diluted with distilled water to soften the end result and prevent the tan from looking too dark or harsh. A second application can always be applied to light or fair skin once the client has adjusted to the colour, but a heavy application cannot be taken off once the tan has developed. A client who is naturally quite dark will be able to take a heavier application while still ensuring a naturallooking finish once the tan has developed. Many manufacturers make tanning preparations in fair, medium and dark tones and they always recommend the use of the Fitzpatrick skin categories. For further information on pigmentation, related problems and skin characteristics please refer to You and the skin, pages The following table shows the Fitzpatrick Skin Categories: Skin type Typical features Tanning ability Continued 6

7 Skin type Typical features Tanning ability Cost, duration and frequency of treatment During the consultation stage it is a good idea to talk through the treatment, particularly the cost, duration and frequency. Prices vary from salon to salon and also for packages and home treatments; some include homecare products, others do not. Make sure your client fully understands what their treatment entails whether it is for a course or a one-off treatment and which products are included. The client has to understand that the colouring of the skin is temporary and that it only lasts for the lifetime of the skin cells no claim can be made for a permanent colouring of the skin. See Professional basics, You, your client and the law (pages 78 80) for information on the Trade Descriptions Act, the Consumer Protection Act and the risks of making false claims in advertising or pricing. It is also important to explain the benefits of the treatment and any restrictions to use in a way that your client can understand. Under the Trade Descriptions Act, it is unlawful for you to mislead your client or make promises that the treatment cannot deliver so it is important that you check your client s understanding of the information you have given them. Managing client expectations If it is your client s first experience with tanning products, do suggest that they go a lighter shade to begin with and then you can offer a darker application next time. As the pigmentation will develop 4 8 hours after the treatment, it is not always easy to judge the finished result and your client may be unhappy if the tan ends up too dark at the end of the development time. It is important to manage the client s expectations, in order to offer the right advice. Be realistic (but gentle) with the client who thinks that a self tan will make him or her slimmer or get rid of skin problems or tone the skin. While a healthy skin colour is a morale booster, it is not a skin treatment as such and will not hide blackheads, spots or other skin problems. Nor does it offer coverage in the same way that make-up would. Often, the opposite will occur a tan application may highlight and draw attention to skin imperfections, as the colour will be uneven and patchy. Do fully discuss the reason why the client wants the treatment. For example, if she is a bride who wants to have glowing skin for her big day you must allow plenty of time prior to the wedding to have a trial run in case she does not like the colour or it looks unnatural against her wedding dress. If the client wants a pre-holiday treatment to take the edge off a very pale body, you must inform them that an artificial tan will not protect the skin from burning and a sun cream should still be used. Most self tanning products do not contain any sun protection factor (SPF) as it does not mix well with high levels of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) a key ingredient in self tan. Ensure the client is aware that the treatment is only as good as the surface it goes on to; rather like an application of gloss paint. If the underlying surface is uneven and poorly prepared then the finished result will be poor. The client should regularly exfoliate and moisturise their skin prior to treatment. Dry patches of skin will absorb more product and this will result in an accumulation of colour hard skin on the feet, knees or elbows is particularly prone to this. Self tan cannot change the underlying muscle structure but it can add artificial definition and there are specialist spray tanners who will emphasise the muscle groups with careful shading; as used by many professional body builders. The consultation is often a good time to introduce the client to aftercare products, such as moisturisers and dry-skin oils, which help the tan last longer. You should agree in writing the client s needs, expectations and treatment outcomes to ensure they are realistic and achievable. Record your decisions on the client s record card, as well as the outcome of any treatment undertaken. Your client record cards must be up to date and accurate, and stored in a safe place. For more information on client record cards, refer to Professional basics, You and your client, pages Provide self tanning services Unit B25 7

8 Think about it Some clients may have a nut allergy and nuts are a common ingredient in exfoliants almond kernels for example. Remember that it may not be the tanning ingredients themselves that are causing the problems. The sensitivity test can also be used to check the finished colour, to help determine the client s colour preference before the treatment begins. Unit B25 Provide self tanning services Consent forms Always ensure that parental or guardian consent is obtained for minors under the age of 16 and that the parent or guardian is present during the self tanning treatment. This is also for your own protection and to avoid any malpractice allegations. For more information about the importance of consent and the relevant legislation, refer to page 23 in Professional basics. For your portfolio Carrying out a skin sensitivity test It is important that you always carry out a sensitivity test to check the suitability of all the chosen product(s) prior to treatment, even if the client has not informed you of any problems with self tanners or known sensitivities. It is advisable to carry out the sensitivity test 24 hours before the treatment. Always carry out the sensitivity test on the inner elbow or behind the ear and ask the client to check after hours for any reactions. Reaction to the test can be immediate; clients may experience itchiness or a burning sensation in the area. A more common reaction involves the client developing a prickly heat type of rash (urticaria) within 12 hours. If this is the case, an antihistamine tablet will reduce the inflammation and it is advisable not to continue with the treatment. Contra-indications to treatment and necessary actions if treatment cannot go ahead A full consultation will be used to determine the client s requirements of the treatment and their colour preferences, but it should also involve a contra-indication check to ensure that the client has no pre-existing conditions which may restrict the treatment or prevent it from being carried out. The severity of some conditions will determine whether the treatment can be modified or whether it must be avoided. The conditions below can either restrict or prevent a self tanning treatment. Broken or inflamed skin: these areas should be avoided. There can be a risk of cross-infection if there is a viral, bacterial or fungal infection present. Recent sunburn, especially if the skin is inflamed or irritated. Infectious skin conditions (bacterial, viral or fungal): these are total contra-indications and treatment should not be carried out to avoid the spread of infection. Non-infectious skin conditions, such as eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis: the condition of the skin determines the effectiveness of the treatment, so areas affected by these conditions will absorb more tanning agent and dark patches may appear. You may feel in your professional judgement that the affected area is too large and the client will not be pleased with the end result, in which case the treatment cannot go ahead. It is also possible that the products used may cause further irritation to the skin. Insulin-dependent diabetics or clients on medication containing Retinol A or roactane: these clients may have thinner skin, leading to a much higher risk of bruising. Treatment can go ahead if GP approval is obtained. Clients on steroid-based medication or having chemotherapy may find they develop a reaction to the treatment and should be made aware of this. Clients with high sensitivity or allergies may also not be suitable for treatment. 8

9 Failure of the sensitivity test with irritation present would be a contra-indication. Asthmatics may find their condition is irritated in a spray booth because of the fine particles and limited ventilation do warn the client there is a possibility of an attack, and suggest a manual application instead. If the client presents with any condition you feel would be contra-indicated and you are not happy to carry out the treatment, then you must follow your training and refuse to treat the client. If this is necessary, you must explain tactfully and politely why the treatment cannot be carried out, and do recommend the client seeks advice from their own GP if appropriate. Remember that it is not your place to comment on possible medical conditions. You are not medically trained and it may affect your insurance cover should you choose to offer advice which later turns out to be incorrect. Some skin conditions which are contra-indicated for a self tanning treatment may respond well to a UV sunbed treatment, so this may be a suitable alternative to offer the client, subject to GP approval. For example, psoriasis or eczema will not offer a smooth skin base for the self tanning products and may be irritated by them, but the UV light in a short dose treatment on a sunbed may actually help the healing process. Self tanning treatments are safe for pregnant women, although they may prefer not to have the abdomen massaged if having a manual treatment. However, there is an insurance risk with a pregnant client as most insurance companies stipulate that no treatments of any kind should be carried out in the first three months of pregnancy because of the risk of miscarriage, however small. Check with both your insurer and your awarding body, if in doubt. Hormones influence pigmentation levels within the skin, so if the client is pregnant, on the contraceptive pill, on HRT or going through the menopause, they may have patches of differently-coloured skin which could affect the end result. Think about it Think about it Pigmentation disorders hypopigmentation and hyperpigmentation Vitiligo (hypopigmentation) Chloasma (hyperpigmentation) This occurs in skin with deficient, or lower than normal, pigmentation or colouring. It can be hormonally related or can happen as a result of the ageing process and often occurs in patches. While skin texture is unaffected, it can make the skin look rough and be quite inhibiting for the client. The most common form of hypopigmentation is vitiligo (also known as leucoderma), which is characterised by the formation of smooth, white, circumscribed irregular patches, often with increased pigmentation of the surrounding skin which appears darker because of the contrast against the lighter patches. The white patches burn easily in the sun, as their melanin content is low or nonexistent. Vitiligo occurs chiefly on the hands and often in the elderly. Its cause is unknown, but it is most commonly found in the tropics. Provide self tanning services Unit B25 9

10 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services This skin colouring can be evened out by applying self tanners but you should check with individual manufacturers for their recommendations. The treatment can help to disguise the lighter patches for a special occasion, giving confidence to clients who are psychologically affected by the condition. This occurs as the result of excessive pigmentation above the normal ratio expected for the natural colour of the skin. The most common condition is chloasma, which is the development of smooth irregular-shaped patches of brown pigment. This is usually hormone-related, so may occur in pregnancy or as a result of the increased hormone levels of a client taking the oral contraceptive pill. As the affected skin is already dark, the only way of evening out the skin colour is to apply tan around the dark patches and avoid the area itself, to try and minimise the difference. Applying self tan to the chloasma will only deepen the colour and draw attention to the area. Preparation of the client for treatment After a full consultation and when written consent has been given, you will need to prepare your client for treatment. Thoroughly cleanse the area to be treated: make-up, creams and body lotions act as a barrier and the self tan will not develop in those areas. It is important to cleanse the skin before treatment, whether the client is having self tan applied manually or in a spray booth. Ideally, the client should shower prior to treatment, either at home or in the salon. Cover the hair using a protective hair covering: it is important both to protect the hair from products used during the self tanning treatment and also to ensure that hair is not obscuring areas to be treated. In a spray tanning booth, which is automatically operated, the spray will cover all of the face if you left the fringe over the forehead, the product would not come into contact with the skin in this area. Nose plugs and eye coverings should be available in a spray booth and clients should be asked to remove contact lenses to avoid irritation. All jewellery should be removed: this is to avoid it being tarnished with product and also to give an even skin coverage a good end result will not include watch or ring marks! Apply a barrier cream as appropriate: in an automatic spray booth you can ask the client to apply a barrier cream to the hands and feet, eyebrows and nails to prevent staining and if the client has particularly long nails, even underneath the free edge. However, if the spray gun is operated by a trained therapist, they will know not to apply product on the palms of the hands or the soles of the feet so this will not be necessary. Ensure the client is wearing the appropriate attire: check again that the client is happy with what they are wearing as it will affect the tan lines. Selecting the most appropriate products Self tanning products There are different types of products available for self tanning treatments. Tanning creams thick in consistency, develop over a period of hours after application. Creams are easily absorbed, so do not need to be rubbed into the skin. They should be stroked onto the skin in a sweeping movement. There are many good creams on the market and they tend to suit most skin types. It is better to use a tinted cream, as opposed to a white cream, for ease of application, as you can see where you have put the product. Tanning gels gels are ideal for the client who prefers a product that is lighter and slightly thinner in texture. Be wary of spreading the gel too thinly and not getting enough coverage for an even tan. Again, it is best to use a tinted product for ease of application and to avoid the risk of overlapping and causing uneven coverage. Tanning mousse light, foamy texture; quick-drying; normally applied using an aerosol can. The product becomes liquid in contact with the skin and is very easy to apply. Most bronzing mousses are infused with moisturisers such as aloe vera to help the condition of the skin. A good application technique is required to ensure an even finish and you should buff with a mitt to ensure no lines are left after application. Spray tan liquid liquid products for use with a spray gun; available in a variety of shades. Most manufacturers of spray gun systems recommend their own liquid and you may find that if you try an alternative to the one recommended, it does not come out of the nozzle evenly or causes blockages in the spray gun. 10

11 Barrier cream for application prior to treatment to prevent tan solution getting onto areas that would not naturally tan, such as the palms of the hands, between the fingers, the soles of the feet and between the toes. An experienced tan therapist may not need to use barrier cream, but it can help when you first start practising. It is a good idea to use barrier cream with an automated spray tan booth which may not be operated with a therapist to hand. Always follow the recommendations for use of barrier cream and ensure you only apply it where needed. Exfoliators an essential part of the treatment to help slough off dead skin cells and prepare the skin for self tanning products. They contain abrasive powders such as finely-ground olive stones, nuts, oatmeal, corn cob powder or synthetic micro-beads. Exfoliants come in many commercial forms: powder, which must be mixed with water, ready-made paste, or in a suspension (with water) that can be used on the face or body. Most body applications tend to be slightly coarser in texture. Moisturisers an essential part of the treatment to smooth the surface of the skin and help retain moisture. If patches of the skin are too dry, they will absorb more self tanning products leading to an uneven finish. Moisturisers are usually an emulsion of oils and waxes such as coconut or jojoba oil. Creams contain approximately 60 per cent water, which re-hydrates the skin, and oils and waxes condition and improve the skin s natural water barrier. Some oils such as jojoba oil prevent water loss, so are ideal ingredients. Other tanning consumables include: shower gels with built in exfoliators and moisturisers twenty-four hour moisturisers enhanced with antioxidants, vitamins and skin nutrients, which can be used daily after bathing to keep tanned skin supple and smooth moisturising tan extenders which, applied daily and after each exfoliation, can be used to extend the life of a sunless tan tan removers which, if used immediately after the self tan application, can remove product from areas where it should not be and blend any hard edges to ensure a natural look. Methods of application Choosing the right method for application of self tanning products will depend upon several factors: the time the client has for treatment client preference the type of result required, such as body sculpting for muscular definition. Manual application This is the most labour intensive and often the most expensive of the tanning treatments. The therapist will perform a full exfoliation of face and body with products and mitts, remove the exfoliant, moisturise the skin all over and then smooth on the tanning products before buffing and polishing specific areas, such as elbows, knees and ankles. The idea is to coat the skin using light, stroking movements, so that the skin absorbs the solution. The tan will develop over 6 8 hours depending upon the products used and the depth of colour preferred. Treatment for a full body can take up to an hour, but it is very relaxing and the finished result is professional looking. It is usual for a full body tan to include the breasts, most of the buttocks and the underarm area to avoid any demarcation lines. Spray booth application This type of tanning treatment takes place in a sealed booth, so is ideal for clients who are quite shy about their body and want privacy. The booth is made of fibreglass, acrylic or aluminium, with a large compressor and a fixed panel with a series of nozzles. The nozzles dispense the self tan automatically, spraying it up and down the body so that the client is misted with a fine solution. Most booths are designed to produce a downward flow of air which pushes any remaining mist to the floor pan and the filter system within the booth. There is often a ventilation system in the back of the machine to help blow-dry the body and to prevent the skin becoming too wet with solution. The cubicle will have a self cleaning system which washes away excess product and keeps the booth hygienic for each client. This method is dependent upon the client being fully prepared so they know to turn around, and to hold certain positions to allow the product to get under the arms and under the chin. Generally, this is a high speed treatment, lasting 1 12 minutes depending upon the type used. Provide self tanning services Unit B25 11

12 Airbrush application Some manufacturers make turbine-type spray tanning systems using a turbine motor rather than a compressor. These are louder than compressors but produce a higher volume of air flow at a lower pressure (HVLP). Check with individual manufacturers which one is most suitable for your business needs the smaller units are ideal for a mobile therapist but if you are in a salon you will need a larger, heavy-duty type of machine. Either way, this method allows for a more personal service and can be used for both body sculpting and muscle definition. It has also been used for body painting and artificial tattooing. Unit B25 Provide self tanning services Airbrush application This type of tanning treatment is performed by a therapist while the client stands in a booth or pod. The therapist holds an airbrush pen linked to a bottle of liquid product, with a long flexible tube attached to an air compressor to push the product into the nozzle in order to deliver a fine mist of spray onto the client s skin. This device was originally designed for paint-spraying systems. The most common system used is HVLP, which stands for high volume low pressure. Most compressed air machines have a gauge to adjust the psi reading. This is a measurement of air pressure psi = pounds per square inch. For a small spray tanning unit you will only need a machine with a psi of 100 or less, but it depends upon what type of equipment you buy. Some bigger machines used in car spraying and industrial work go very much higher and would be too powerful for tanning application. Always check with your individual manufacturer s instructions. The skin is immediately coloured and then the colour deepens as the product develops. As it is controlled by the therapist, it allows for a more precise application than an automatic booth and a skilled technician can deliver a body spray in about minutes, including both the front and back of the body. You will need to allow drying time so the complete treatment takes approximately 30 minutes. This application requires more skill on the part of the therapist to ensure an even application. The spray gun needs to be kept at a regular distance from the client and should be moved smoothly without lingering for too long in one area. Which method to choose? The method chosen will depend on the client s needs and personal preferences, and the available time. The equipment you have available to you will depend upon whether you are in a large salon with the capital to invest in bigger equipment and the space to house a booth or pod or if you are self-employed, mobile or part of a smaller salon. Equipment varies enormously in price and a smaller salon or self-employed therapist may feel that the investment in equipment is not appropriate for their market. Some therapists prefer to apply self tan by hand for a more personal treatment, including thorough preparation of the skin, but those who prefer spray tanning would highlight the speed with which you can complete treatments making it more profitable. Whichever method you go for, it is important to consider any contra-indications identified during the client consultation and the cost implications of the different treatments. 12

13 Apply self tan products In this section you will learn about: The process of self tanning Self tanning application is a three-step process: 1 Exfoliation 2 Moisturising 3 Application of tanning agents. Performing one step without the others will result in an uneven colour distribution, patchy colour appearing at the natural creases of the body, such as elbows and knees, or an accumulation of darker colour where there are dry or rough patches of skin. Exfoliation Cells in the epidermis are continually renewing themselves, beginning at the germinal layer, resting upon the basal membrane, and then moving upwards to the horny top layer of the epidermis. Dead, flat cells are then rubbed away via friction caused by everyday actions, such as using a towel, getting dressed and even scratching the skin. This process is called desquamation or exfoliation. Getting rid of the old cells allows new ones to come up to the surface, keeping the skin healthy and able to fight infection. Exfoliating products Horny layer Clear or lucid layer Granular layer Prickle cell layer Germinating layer Surface of skin Live nuclei Provide self tanning services Unit B25 Skin should be smooth and free from dry, flaky skin before a self tanning treatment. Exfoliation is essential to ensure that: the surface of the skin is clean, grease-free and that no soap film is left on the skin, all of which will prevent the self tan penetrating evenly Melanocyte Membrane Capillary loop The process of desquamation in the cells of the epidermis 13

14 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services the cells about to leave are accelerated on their way, so that the tan lasts as long as possible. If the tan lasts as long as the life cycle of an epidermal cell, then it makes most sense to stain the cells with the longest life span, not the ones about to flake away this is the reason a tan only lasts for a short time on some clients. Exfoliant Description and effects Moisturising Moisturising creams can be used morning and evening depending upon skin type and the cream used. They contain oils and waxes which have a softening effect on dry skins and are especially good for skin in dry conditions or when the skin must cope with regular temperature imbalances; for example moving from very cold weather to central heating. Moisturiser is essential prior to self tanning to smooth and nourish dry areas, such as the feet, ankles, elbows and knees, to ensure an even coating of the tanning agent. The colour is often too dark in these areas because the dry skin absorbs more product and is not able to be smoothed out as in other areas. Some companies recommend mixing a little moisturiser in with the tanning agent when applying to dry areas, to dilute the colour slightly for a more natural effect. This can give a softer tan on the face, too. Dry skin oils have the same effect and provide a certain amount of slip on the skin s surface, allowing a more even application. Think about it Moisturising ingredient Description and effects Typical ingredients found in exfoliators Continued 14

15 Common ingredients found in moisturisers Self tanning agents Modern tanning agents are tinted so that application is visible and therefore easier. Early self tanning agents had a rather pungent odour which has since been improved, and application has become much easier, both for home use and in the salon. Remember that individual companies will have their own particular emollients and colorants, so check the manufacturer s instructions for all products that you use. The tint of the cream will not always be an indication of the colour when it fully develops; it is more of an aid to application, rather than a colour chart for the tan. Self tanning products vary in viscosity, colour and form, but their active ingredients are always the same. Tanning ingredient Description and effects Provide self tanning services Unit B25 Ingredients found in tanning agents 15

16 Techniques of application Manual application for facial tanning step-by-step guide Unit B25 1 Thoroughly cleanse the face, neck and décolleté area. 2 Tone and blot. 3 Apply gentle facial exfoliators, working in small circular motions all over the area. Remove and blot. 4 Moisturise with the appropriate lotion and apply extra product around the eyebrows and hair line to dilute the tanning product and prevent a build-up of unnatural colour. Heavy moisturiser can act as a barrier to self tan so only use the product supplied by the tanning manufacturer. 5 Apply the tanning product at full strength to the face or, if a lighter colour is preferred, mix with moisturiser to dilute the effect slightly. 6 Rub lightly along the hair line. You might like to use a cosmetic sponge for more control of the product. Remember to do the back of the neck to the hair line nothing looks worse than a tide mark of colour difference when the client wants to wear her hair up. 7 Allow the product to dry for minutes before the client puts his or her clothes back on. Recommend the client sleeps in the product or leaves it on for at least four hours before showering. 8 After showering, the tan should be enhanced by moisturising the skin. 9 The finished result is a glowing, tanned face Provide self tanning services (Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd) Think about it 16

17 Manual application for body tanning step-by-step guide 1 With the client on their back, exfoliate the skin. With a cupped hand, mix exfoliators with a little water. Starting with the feet, apply exfoliator in circular motions working up the client s legs and body, paying particular attention to the feet, knees and elbows. 2 Remove excess exfoliator with warm towels. 3 Turn client on their front and repeat exfoliating process. 4 Lightly moisturise with the appropriate product and pay special attention to the elbows, ankles, knees and feet so that the tanning product does not build up in the natural creases of the skin and appear darker. If preferred, mix a little tanning product with moisturiser and apply over these areas for a lighter colour. 5 Using gloves, apply the tanning product, starting from the neck down and working in small circular motions (as you would moisturiser) Working down the torso on to the legs, lightly glaze the product over the ankles. 7 Turn the client over. Ensure that knees are bent upwards with feet flat on the bed. Starting with the feet, apply product working upwards this time, again lightly glazing over the knees. Give a thorough application to the larger areas such as the back. 8 When working on the hands, elbows and feet, spray dry oil on the area or mix tanning products with moisturiser before applying. This will emulsify the tanning product and help to smooth it over any dry areas. Never apply tanning products to the palms, or the soles of the feet, as this is not a natural place for a tan. Apply a little moisturiser or oil on the hand and work the self tan into the back of the hands, avoiding the area between the fingers. 9 The finished result, after 24 hours development time, a shower and a body moisturising application, is a lovely, natural colour. 4 Provide self tanning services Unit B (Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd) 17

18 Application for vitiligo step-by-step guide 1 Apply the full-strength self tan to the lighter areas as thickly as possible. Moisturiser will make the tanning agent lighter; apply with a cotton bud to the darker edges if necessary. 2 Allow product to dry for approximately 10 minutes. Do not worry if it looks streaky at this stage. 3 Allow time for product to develop, ideally overnight. 4 Wash off the guide colour. If the tan is not dark enough, repeat approximately every 8 hours until the correct strength is achieved. 5 Finally, mix the self tan and the moisturiser together and apply to the full body to achieve an even skin tone. 1 1 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services (Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd) Self tanning in an automatic spray booth step-by-step guide 1 Ensure the client is aware of the importance of following the instructions given prior to going into the booth this often includes applying barrier cream to the hands and feet, or covering the feet to avoid getting an unnatural tan. 2 Remember to instruct the client that whatever they are wearing will also be sprayed with the tanning mist, but it will usually wash out of fabrics made of cotton. Discourage the client from wearing their favourite or expensive swimwear if they are unsure of the fabric as you cannot totally guarantee that all DHA solution will wash off. Clients often prefer to tan nude to ensure a full body colour and to avoid any strap marks; because the booth is private, it is fine for them to do this. Remember to ask if they have had a recent intimate waxing treatment; the tanning solution can irritate the delicate skin around the genitals. 3 Hair should be covered in the plastic cap provided but with a little of the hair line exposed so that the tan goes right up to it. 4 Nasal plugs should be inserted to avoid inhalation of the mist and eye goggles put in place. This treatment may not be suitable for anyone who is claustrophobic or asthmatic. 5 Ask the client to step into the booth and face the nozzles lining the feet up with the indicators on the floor. 6 The controls are manual and can be pushed in or the dial turned depending upon the machine. 7 Instruct the client to take up four poses to allow the spray to cover all areas of the body, including under the chin. 8 Ask the client to step out of the booth and give aftercare instructions. 18

19 Air brush application of self tan step-by-step guide 1 Some machines come with a small turntable, rather like a cake stand, which the client stands on so they can rotate around the therapist, rather than the other way around. 2 Always wear PPE and gloves and test the equipment on yourself, following the manufacturer s instructions, to ensure it is safe and functioning correctly. Switch on the compressor and adjust the pressure to suit the area you need a constant fine mist rather than a heavy concentration as this will over wet the skin. Once you start blotting areas to dry them you cannot guarantee the evenness, so it is best to avoid the need to do this. 4 Remember to ask the client to stretch out the skin if they have folds of adipose tissue along the back or under the bust line as the product will not spray onto the skin underneath. 5 When spraying the arms, ask the client to stretch out the skin and remember that the top of the arm naturally tans darker than the inner arm. Reduce the pressure of the spray and increase the distance from the inner arm, but do coat it lightly to prevent a tan line. Ask the client to stand with their arm extended and bent at the elbow to ensure that the armpit perimeter is coated, but not the armpit itself. 3 Most manufacturers recommend you begin with the legs as they take the longest to dry remember to ask the client to stretch out at the ankle to avoid lines. Increasing the distance from the skin will give a lighter application ankles, backs of knees and elbows require less product, as they are not naturally darkened with a suntan. Remember that the idea is to create a natural look When carrying out the facial application, ask the client to close their eyes, breathe in and then gently exhale through the nose with the mouth closed as you work down the face this will prevent them from inhaling any of the mist. You must be quick and even with your application. 7 Ensure that the finish is as natural as possible lighter in the ear, neck and under the chin. Provide self tanning services Unit B25 (Images courtesy of Fake Bake UK Ltd) 19

20 Unit B25 Provide self tanning services Salon life Arietta s story Hi, my name is Arietta. I ve been a tanning therapist for about six months now. My favourite method of application is the spray gun, because it is quick and you get such good results. A few weeks ago, I learned a valuable lesson in client care when I carried out a treatment on a middle-aged lady who was going to her daughter s wedding in the Caribbean. Fortunately, I recommended a practice run about a month before they were all due to travel out for the wedding. The treatment went fi ne but after the client stepped out of the pod, I realised I really needed the loo. I gave the client the impregnated cleaning tissue to use on the palms of her hands and her feet so that they wouldn t go dark and excused myself. When I came back my client was dressed and ready to pay for her treatment. Unfortunately she came back two days later to complain about the terribly patchy colour on her arms. It was just awful, I couldn t understand it. Eventually I asked the client about the impregnated tissue she d used after the treatment and whether she d used it anywhere apart from her hands and feet. She told me that her arms were a little bit wet, so she wiped the towel over them to dry them off. The penny dropped she had wiped off most of the colour, hence the patchy fi nish. I should have been there to stop her the skin needs a few moments to dry and set the tan prior to the clothes going on and the wipes are only for the hands and feet. I re-explained the aftercare and told her that I was at fault. My salon manager gave the client another tanning treatment for free. I m so relieved that I had convinced the client to have a trial treatment prior to the wedding. I had to contribute to the cost of the repeat treatment and I have never left a client unattended again. Top tips is not primed and smooth the end result will be disappointing. Ask the client to exfoliate and moisturise at least twice a week prior to the appointment, to help make the salon treatment more effective. used, to make sure the client has no allergic reactions. of tanning product and then build it up than to over apply and have to blend excess product. product more thinly over knees, ankles and elbows. Blend the product to avoid tide marks. neck and the ears to avoid tide marks should the client choose to wear her hair up. them appear more pronounced. Check that the client understands this before proceeding with the treatment. involve going over the breasts. Remember that the skin in this area is fi ner and more sensitive, so be gentle and apply products lightly. Tanning products can accumulate here and leave a brown ring around the nail plate. avoid a line where skin folds naturally occur. not rush the client that is how mistakes are made in application. dressed. from the clothing rubbing off the tan before it has had time to develop. Tanning products should not come off on clothing, but darker colours are still advisable. 20