Reuse, recycling and beyond The Nordic textile projects - David Palm, David Watson and Nikola Kiørboe,

Transcription

1 Reuse, recycling and beyond The Nordic textile projects - David Palm, David Watson and Nikola Kiørboe, Project financed and initiated by the Nordic Council of Ministers

2 A Nordic strategy for collection, reuse and recycling of textiles The Nordic textile reuse and recycling commitment An extended producer responsibility (EPR) system and new business models to increase reuse and recycling of textiles in the Nordic region

3 Business as usual Storage/ accumulation: 0,9 kg/capita & year Collection of used textiles: 4,5 kg/capita & year Consumption of new textiles: 14,2 kg/capita & year Incineration & landfill: 8,8 kg/capita & year

4 Long-term vision One user In use Functional lifetime Not in use Incineration/ landfill/downcycling Feed into new textile products In use In use In use In use Functional lifetime Chemical recycling Mechanical recycling Collection

5 Collection as share of textiles Reuse as share of textiles Reuse on national/nordic markets Recycling as share of textiles Textiles-to-textiles recycling as share of total recycling Number of municipalities with certified collection points Share/number of collection points operated by certified organisations (e.g. engaged in the Nordic Commitment)

6 Nordic textile innovation EPR & Business models Recycling innovation Multiple strategies Nordic cooperation Increased collection Export Voluntary commitment Common targets

7 Nordic strategy measures 1. Launch of the Nordic Commitment 2. Expansion of the Nordic Commitment to include de-branding services 3. Engagement of municipalities in the Nordic Commitment 4. Further development of the Nordic Commitment to more actively involve and include textile producers 5. Obligation for municipalities to secure collection containers for textiles at all (municipal) recycling centres 6. Obligation to collect used textiles from public activities and public businesses 7. Introduction of a voluntary commitment for private companies to collect used textiles 8. Evaluation of business models in the field of collective use, reuse and prolonged (active) lifetime of textiles 9. Government funding for start-ups in the field of collective use, reuse and prolonged (active) lifetime of textiles 10. Consumer information campaign 11. Nordic Task Force for the Higg index 12. Public procurement for reuse of textiles and textiles with recycled content 13. Investigation of the need for and potentials of establishing an (automatic) sorting facility in the Nordic region 14. Financial assistance for establishing one chemical recycling facility on an industrial scale in the Nordic region

8 1. Launch of the Nordic Commitment 2. Expansion of the Nordic Commitment to include de-branding services 3. Engagement of municipalities in the Nordic Commitment 4. Further development of the Nordic Commitment to more actively involve and include textile producers Project financed and initiated by the

9 Key goals of the commitment: Within ten years double the share of post-consumer textiles that are collected separately in the Nordic region compared to 2012 Strive towards a ten year goal of at least 50% of collected textiles are reused (either in Nordic countries or abroad) and 90% of the total is reused or where reuse not possible, recycled. Aim towards closed loop recycling rather than downcycling. Eliminate the illegal collection, export and trading of post-consumer textiles Enable legitimate actors to collect, sort, reuse and recycle textiles in cooperation with producers, importers and authorities. Increase transparency on the fate of collected textiles and the purpose of the collection and increase public confidence in collecting organisations

10 Certifying organisation Nordic? Voluntary Commitment Importers, producers & retailers Code of conduct National? Municipalities and waste companies Socially beneficial collectors Other collectors

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12 Awareness support Raw material fee/recycling certificate Households Voluntary EPR Municipalities Producers Producers Contribution minus upstream rebate PRO Reporting Financial support Operators (collectors) Textile production Demand National EPA Financial support Sorters Reuse Direct reuse Market for recycled fibres Project financed and initiated by the

13 Key elements of voluntary EPR Commitment - needs strong commitment and motivation from industry and widespread buy-in. Free-riders will undermine system. Targets - collection, reuse and recycling targets should be ambitious but clear and simple to measure. Prioritise reuse over recycling. Ownership - amendments to legislation on ownership of municipal waste Upstream effects rebate to producers for more sustainably designed textiles. But sustainability efforts must be verifiable. Collection - build on existing collection systems but increase citizen convenience Incentives PRO pays collectors OR sorters per tonne. Alternative is recycling certificate/raw material fee legislation. Flexibility allow both individual and collective solutions: Otherwise impact on alternative business models.

14 System Mandatory extended Large collection flows Low levels of contamination Low cost (for operator) Suitable types of textiles Easily available for the collected consumer producer responsibility Container collection, charity Container collection, recycling company Second hand, in store collection Take back of own brand, resell in shop Collection of own brand polyester for chem. rec. Private collections / Brand refund system Reception at recycling centers Material Bank (net service) Kerbside collection, demand driven Recycling center fraction Kerbside collection, regular waste collection Reception place, where people bring textiles Reception at high street clothing, commercial Reception at high street clothing, charity Kerbside collection, reward demand driven Kerbside collection of mixed dry recyclables Collection containers at offices There exist many options for collection 5. Obligation for municipalities to secure collection containers for textiles at all (municipal) recycling centres 6. Obligation to collect used textiles from public activities and public businesses 7. Introduction of a voluntary commitment for private companies to collect used textiles Project financed and initiated by the

15 BUT what if voluntary EPR doesn t achieve targets or agreed targets are not ambitious enough for government? Mandatory EPR may be necessary In Europe only France so far has mandatory EPR for textiles (clothing, home textiles and shoes) Collective EPR system would be similar to that of voluntary collective system. Similar design issues would arise Can be combined with tax on hazardous chemicals - chemicals are hard to tackle within collective EPR legislation

16 Legislative elements of mandatory EPR Product scope clothing and home textiles. Potential for shoes and carpets. Definition of producer include importers and producers. But to encourage upstream effects should give procurers/design brands responsibility. Targets - collection, reuse and recycling targets should be ambitious but clear and simple to measure. Priortise reuse over recycling. Penalties - for both freeriders and for not meeting targets PRO accreditation requirements for organisation and their plan of operations but also give some freedom to PRO for how to meet targets cost effectively. Should only one or several PROs be allowed? Who is on board of PRO? power and conflict analysis Plus same design elements as for voluntary

17 Mandatory EPR Voluntary EPR Policy support for new business models OR Policy support for new business models

18 Established/emerging business models Local job creation!!

19 Common challenges to business models Lack of consumer/producer awareness Knowledge hubs and advice bureaus for start-ups Lack of quality of products Requirement for sustainable design courses in design schools Unfavourable price differential high local wages, low price of new products VAT reduction/removal for repair, reuse & leasing

20 Concrete suggestions to start with 8. Evaluation of business models in the field of collective use, reuse and prolonged (active) lifetime of textiles 9. Government funding for start-ups in the field of collective use, reuse and prolonged (active) lifetime of textiles 10. Consumer information campaign 11. Nordic Task Force for the Higg index

21 Innovation in sorting and recycling Project financed and initiated by the

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23 Textiles 4 textiles 12. Public procurement for reuse of textiles and textiles with recycled content 13. Investigation of the need for and potentials of establishing an (automatic) sorting facility in the Nordic region 14. Financial assistance for establishing one chemical recycling facility on an industrial scale in the Nordic region Re:newcell 26/6-2014

24 Thank you for listening! Background reports already available at Final reports available early 2015 Nikola Kiørboe, David Palm,