A GUIDE TO COLORED GEMSTONES

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1 A GUIDE TO COLORED GEMSTONES

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3 C o l o r, L i f e, G e m s a n d Yo u Color is one of life s defining elements. Whether it s reflected by nature s seasonal transformations, fastpaced changes in the current scene, or enduring personal favorites for home and wardrobe, color can inspire, renew, nurture, empower, communicate. Gems play delightful and amazing almost magical games with color. From subtle pastels and deep shades to bold bright primaries, gems run through the spectrum and touch every nuance. They capture elusive hues and hold them forever. Yet they change from moment to moment, with light and setting and mood. Most of all, gems put color close to you to experience and enjoy for yourself, or share and show to the world. This makes gems a great way to add more color to your life. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

4 C o l o r e d G e m s a n d J e w e l ry In the gem kingdom, everything except diamond is considered a colored gemstone and that means endless possibilities. In order to be classified as a gemstone, a naturally occurring mineral (garnet) or organic material (pearl) must possess beauty, rarity, a reasonable degree of durability and value. From amethyst and aquamarine to zircon and zoisite, natural colored gems present a mesmerizing selection of beauty. They offer a rainbow palette from which to choose and come in myriads of enticing forms. The jewelry in which gems sparkle and gleam extends the choices to heights of imagination and delicious indulgence. Today s virtuoso designers use colored gems to create jewelry that s fashionable yet individual, chic yet timeless. Looks range from classic to contemporary to cutting-edge. They re daringly minimal, unabashedly luxe, and everywhere in between. As a result, colored gemstone jewelry can fit any taste, occasion, or style to perfection. It can give a lifetime of enjoyment and become an heirloom for future generations to treasure. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

5 T o d ay s v i rt u o s o d e s i g n e r s u s e c o l o r e d g e m s t o c r e at e j e w e l ry t h at s f a s h i o n a b l e y e t i n d i v i d u a l, c h i c y e t t i m e l e s s.

6 D i m e n s i o n s o f A p p e a l Gems and jewelry are beautiful, but that s really just part of their appeal. There s fashion, self-expression, the charm of the old, the excitement of the new, and much, much more as well. In recent seasons the fashion world has rediscovered color and the confident, feel-good femininity that goes with it. This has made colored gemstone jewelry an essential component for every wardrobe. Beyond complementing apparel, the colors of gems conjure emotions and convey meanings. The serenity of blue. The passion of red. The vitality of green. Each gem color has its own energy, spirit, and resonance. Gems, themselves, embody Nature s creative power. Over vast spans of time, the same forces that shaped our planet compounded basic elements into rare and captivating gems. Gems also evoke the romance of faraway places. From where they re found amid lofty mountains, in lush forests, beneath desert sands, or bathed in ocean tides gems carry exotic images, lingering echoes, and alluring scents. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

7 Gems are cloaked in rich traditions, too. Some have been prized since the days of Cleopatra. For centuries, many were thought to possess spiritual virtues or magical attributes. Royalty once imparted a regal aura to gems. Today celebrities and pop icons add fresh glamour to the age-old mystique. Jewelry further enhances the artistry, imagery and messages of gems. Be it a ring, necklace, bracelet, or earrings, every form plays a role in adornment and expression. Designs draw inspiration, articulate themes, and blend motifs from nature, history, world cultures, and an exhilarating mix of here and now. Of course, you decide which appeal dimensions are meaningful to you. But the gems and jewelry you choose to wear can help you define your individuality and celebrate your life who you are, the milestones you reach, the things you cherish and achieve along the way. the fashion world has rediscovered color and the confident, feel-good femininity that goes with it. This has made colored gemstone jewelry an essential component for every wardrobe. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

8 C O L O R C U T Va l u e i s n t a d e e p o r c o m p l e x m y s t e ry. H o w e v e r, i t s i m p ly m a k e s s e n s e t o h av e t h e guidance of a professional you trust when yo u p u r c h a s e yo u r c o l o r e d g e m s to n e j e w e l ry. C L A R I T Y C A R AT W E I G H T

9 M a k i n g I n f o r m e d C h o i c e s It s reasonable to expect lasting value and enjoyment when you purchase gemstone jewelry, and there are a few things you should understand in order to make sure you get what you want and deserve. You can start by trusting your instincts. Sensory appeal is always paramount. So, if a particular gem or jewelry design speaks to you, by all means listen! You can also use what you know about the 4Cs. The familiar diamond value factors of color, cut, clarity, and carat weight apply to colored gems as well. Each kind of gem must be judged by its own potential, though. Color Every gem has a unique range. Generally speaking, the purest and most vivid color a gem can have will also be the most expensive. Cut Next to color, this is the most important factor in beauty. Faceted gemstones should have a pleasing shape with a lively display of color and light. Clarity If they don t detract from appearance, clarity features are accepted in most colored gems. In fact, they provide a benefit by proving that the gem is natural. Carat Weight Most colored gems are available in a wide range of sizes, but for some the selection is limited. In addition to the 4Cs, gem values are influenced by natural rarity and the economics of supply and demand. This explains why gems that look similar in color and size can differ substantially in price. The creativity and craftsmanship that go into fashioning gems and making jewelry also affect the value of the finished product. Besides being beautiful, an exquisite gem reflects the union of aesthetics, science and technical mastery. Fine jewelry combines gems and precious metal with talented design, skilled execution and attention to even the smallest details. Value isn t a deep or complex mystery. However, it simply makes sense to have the guidance of a professional you trust when you purchase your colored gemstone jewelry. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

10 O N E : C o l o r Some gems come in a multitude of colors, while others have more restricted palettes. Experts analyze all these chromatic options in terms of three essential components: hue, tone, and saturation. Hue is the basic color sensation blue, red, green, and so forth, plus blends like purplish red and violet-blue. Tone is a color s lightness or darkness, and saturation is its visual intensity. Colors of pure hue, medium tone, and high saturation are generally most valuable, but different kinds of gems have differing potentials in this regard. For example, sapphire and tanzanite can reach a deeper blue than aquamarine, topaz or zircon. Color ranges can overlap to some extent, so different gems may have the same color. Each is valued according to its own unique possibilities, however. Thus, the particular tint that s considered best for one gem might be medium for another. In buying decisions, you need to be aware of color ranges and objective value assessments, but it s best to rely on your eyes and heart. Pure or mixed, light or dark, vivid or muted whichever color holds the most appeal for you is the one to choose. T W O : C U T Choices in cut are almost as varied as for color and they re every bit as intriguing. Transparent colored gems are most often faceted like diamonds, in dozens of geometric shapes and styles. The ancient domed form known as the cabochon is traditional for gems like jade, opal, and turquoise. It helps to bring out the special optical effects seen in star gems and cat s-eyes, too. Today many kinds of gems are fashioned into carvings. These range from classic cameos and natural motifs to designs that push the edge of abstract expression. Whatever the technique may be, cut is chiefly responsible for revealing a gem s beauty. Its contribution to appeal and value arises from the cutter s artistic creativity, technical skill and patient labor. To judge the quality of cut, examine the gem as you hold it at arm s length and rock it gently back and forth. The overall form ought to be pleasing A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

11 and dynamically balanced. Color and light should dance throughout a faceted gem, with no washed out window in the center or dead spots around the edges. When you look close-up, details like facet shape need to be precise, with polished surfaces appearing smooth and bright. T H R E E : C L A R I T Y Most kinds of colored gems may have internal characteristics or inclusions that are possible to see without magnification. Many of these are simply byproducts of the natural processes that create gems within the Earth. Among the most common are tiny mineral crystals that became caught up in larger gem crystals as they grew. As long as such inclusions aren t prominent, they don t diminish a colored gem s beauty or desirability, and have little effect on its value. There are some exceptions to this rule, however. You can expect a few gems to be eye clean, with only microscopic clarity features. This list includes aquamarine, citrine, tanzanite and topaz. On the other hand, inclusions in emerald and red tourmaline may be fairly obvious, but won t have a major impact unless they re also unsightly. It s important to recognize that inclusions have a positive side, too. They can prove that the gems in which they occur are natural not synthetic or imitation. Scientists study inclusions to learn the secrets of how gems form, and when viewed under a microscope, some are strikingly beautiful in their own right. F O U R : C a r a t W e i g h t Like diamonds, most colored gems are weighed and priced by the carat. (One carat equals 1/5 gram.) As with color, however, different kinds of gems have differing weight potentials. A few rarely exceed 5 carats in high quality. Many are readily available up to 15 or 20 carats, and some can be even larger. For gems with limited weight ranges, per-carat prices usually climb steeply as the carat weight goes up. For those with wider ranges, any increases tend to be more gradual. A 3-carat ruby might have a per-carat price that s three times higher than a 1-carat ruby of the same quality. As a result, the larger gem would cost nine times more than the smaller one. In contrast, a 5-carat amethyst is likely to have about the same per-carat price as a 1-carat amethyst, so it will cost only five times as much. Besides reflecting the natural rarity of larger gems, per-carat price can serve as an indication of other value factors. If two gems of the same kind and weight have significantly different per-carat prices, there will be differences in color, cut, or clarity, which you need to consider in a purchase decision. A M E R I C A N G E M T R A D E A S S O C I A T I O N

12 Gemstone Colors The following list gives you an idea of the diverse colors, or hues, found among a number of different gemstones. Consider this sampling of gemstones available within each color range. red Ruby, Garnet (including Almandite and Rhodolite), Tourmaline, Sunstone, Spinel and Red Beryl. pink Tourmaline, Spinel, Sapphire, Kunzite, Morganite, Topaz, Garnet (Rhodolite), Pearl, Opal and Quartz.

13 purple Amethyst, Sapphire, Tanzanite, Spinel and Iolite. blue Sapphire, Tanzanite, Tourmaline, Iolite, Spinel, Aquamarine, Topaz, Zircon and Chalcedony.

14 green Emerald, Garnet (Tsavorite), Tourmaline, Peridot, Green Beryl, Sapphire, Andalusite and Jade (Jadeite, Nephrite). Yellow & orange Citrine, Golden Beryl, Sapphire, Topaz, Tourmaline, Fire Opal, Diamond, Zircon and Garnet (Spessartite, Malaya, Hessonite).

15 white Pearl, Moonstone, Jade (Jadeite, Nephrite) and Chalcedony. multicolor Opal, Ametrine, Ammolite, Tourmaline

16 Add More Color to Your Life w w w. a d d m o r e c o l o r t o y o u r l i f e. c o m 3030 LBJ Freeway, Suite #840, Dallas, Texas fax w w w. a g t a. o r g All jewelry images from AGTA Spectrum Awards Collection and AGTA Stock Photography Program. Reproduction of this brochure is strictly prohibited. All content is the sole property of the AGTA. AGTA All rights reserved.