Sure-Fit Designs. Princess Line Blouse 3/4 Length Sleeve with 'V' Hem Detail

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1 Pg. 1 Princess Line Blouse 3/4 Length Sleeve with 'V' Hem Detail Princess lines are so flattering on so may different figure shapes, particularly when they originate from the shoulder line. The vertical line from shoulder to hem level always adds visual height to any body frame. This Fashion Leaflet discusses how to size up one or two measurement dots giving you sufficient wearing ease for total casual comfort. The center front is slightly 'V'd open and is finished with a narrow 3/4" (1.9cm) wide placket/band. The neck edge finishes with a collar stand and collar, though you could just as easily complete it with a flat collar from the Master Pattern Collar Collection. The sleeve is comfortable at 3/4 length and features an inverted 'V' hem detail that I know you'll love. Wear this blouse either open or buttoned closed. Tucked in or left out...it's a winner. Pattern Preparation: Bodice/Blouse Front 1. Blouse wearing ease Trace a working copy of your bodice and skirt body blueprint patterns without seam allowances, joining the sideway T marking at the waist level. You need draw only the top portion of your skirt pattern to allow for your blouse length and hip circumference. If you prefer additional blouse wearing ease beyond the 2 ½ (6.4cm) provided in your bodice blueprint, go up at least 1 or 2 measurement dots at the underarm and waist dots. E.g. If your bust was 40 (101.6cm) in circumference, draw your pattern with either a 41 or 42 ( cm) dot. Going up 1 dot provides a total of 3 ½ (8.9cm) bust ease. Going up 2 dots provides a total of 4 ½ (11.4cm) bust ease. You can always measure the circumference of an existing blouse that you like and use this as a guideline. Draw bodice and skirt as one unit. 2. Determine and mark your first button position on CF. Mark as A. Lower the neck point 3/8 (1.0cm) and measure back ¾ (1.9cm) and mark as B. Connect A to B to form the slight V neck. Re draw neck curve to point B.

2 Pg Because the buttonholes are going to sit directly on the CF line and be stitched in a vertical position and because the ¾ (1.9cm) wide placket/band needs to straddle the CF line, draw a new stitching line 3/8 (1.0cm) toward the interior of the blouse as shown by the blue dashed line. The 5/8 (1.6cm) seam allowance will be added later. 4. Lay a piece of tracing vellum over top of CF. Draw placket/band ¾ (1.9cm) wide following the contour of the V d center front. Add matching notches as shown. 5. Draw a slightly curved shirt tail hem on both front and back bodice. 6. Blouse Front Princess Line. Divide the shoulder line in half. Draw the Princess line down through the center of the apex then through the waist fitting dart. For slight waist shaping, follow the contours of the side edge of the waist dart at half its original width. Mark matching notches above and below apex marking. Add a parallel grainline marking on side front before cutting princess seamline. Blend/smooth side seam. Cut apart on princess line including shaping at the waist line on either side of the vertical waist dart. Transfer the side bust fitting dart up to the shoulder midpoint.

3 Pattern Preparation: Bodice/Blouse Back Begin by tracing a working copy of bodice back with upper portion of skirt attached. Pg Divide the shoulder line in half. Draw a line extending down to the waist fitting dart. For slight waist shaping, follow the contours of the side edges of the waist dart at half its original width. If a shoulder dart is present, use either side of the shoulder dart as part of this princess line. Mark matching notches. Draw a parallel grainline on side back panel before cutting princess seam line. Blend/smooth side seam. Cut apart on princess line including shaping at the waist line on either side of the vertical waist dart and on either side of the back shoulder dart if you have one. 8. Add 5/8 (1.6cm) seam allowances to all edges of placket/band, blouse front, side front, blouse back, side back including neck edge, shoulder line etc. Depending on how you choose to turn and finish the shirttail hem, add a narrow hem allowance. (The only piece shown is the front Placket/Band). Pattern Preparation: 3/4 Length Sleeve with 'V' Hem Detail 9. For a ¾ length sleeve draw hem level mid way between elbow and wrist level. Maintain elbow dart. 10. Add a 2 (5.1cm) hem allowance. 11. Mark center. Draw a double ended V approximately 2 ½ (6.4cm) long and ¾ (1.9cm) wide. 12. Add 5/8 (1.6cm) seam allowances to underarm seams and sleeve cap.

4 Pg Measure the length of front and back neck stitching lines. Add these 2 lengths together. Draw the collar and collar stand from Master Pattern Collar Collection, measuring and making sure that the neck edge of the collar stand is just slightly longer than the combined length of front and back neck stitching line. If it s about 1/8 (0.3cm) longer it allows for the seam allowances and the turn of the cloth when sewing the collar stand to the neck edge. Please note** When drawing the Collar Stand, the Stand pattern piece already gives you a 3/4" (1.9cm) extension (which will enclose the 3/4" (1.9cm) front Placket/Band). Make sure to encorporate this extension beyond the CF marking. The collar pattern piece will also need to be drawn to match the collar stand's notches. Add necessary 5/8 (1.6cm) seam allowances and extend matching notches.

5 Pg. 5 General Sewing Construction Steps: 1. Sew front princess seam side front panel to center front panel. Press toward side panel and topstitch if desired. 3. With right sides together, sew shoulder seams. 2. Sew blouse back princess seams side back panels to center back panel. Press seams toward side panel and topstitch if desired. 4. With right sides together, sew side seams. 5. Interface underside of front placket/band.

6 Pg With right side of upper placket/band to right side of center front, match notches then sew placket to blouse. Trim and grade seam allowance. Press seam allowances toward the placket/band. (Sorry no photo) 6. With right sides together, sew long unnotched edge of upper and under front placket /band. 7. Trim, grade, turn and press so that right sides are now face out. 10. Fold under placket/band to inside. With folded inner edge just covering previous seam, pin securely, then topstitch both edges of placket/band close to seams as shown. 8. Fold the 5/8 (1.6cm) seam allowance of the under placket/band toward the inside. Press. 11. Staystitch neck edge.

7 Pg Interface under collar. Then with right sides together, sew under collar to upper collar leaving notched edge open. Trim and grade seams. 17. Topstitch collar stand thereby enclosing neck edge seam allowance. 13. Turn collar to right side. Topstitch if desired. 14. Interface under collar stand. Press long neck edge of collar stand toward the inside. 18. Stitch 2 rows of ease stitching from notch to notch on sleeve cap. 15. Prepare collar and stand by sandwiching collar in between upper and under collar stand matching notches. Stitch together. 16. Sew neck edge of blouse to upper collar stand neck edge. 19. Sew elbow dart. Trim, grade and press seam allowances toward inside of collar stand.

8 Pg To sew sleeve underarm seam, unfold hem allowance so that right sides are together from underarm point to hem edge. Sew underarm seam. Clip at hem fold line to allow for turning hem to inside. (No photo) 20. V hem detail on sleeve. Serge or clean finish sleeve hem edge. Fold up hem allowance right sides together. Make sure the V hem detail is clearly marked and ready for stitching. Stitch this inverted V on marked stitching line, taking care to sew about 2 small stitches when pivoting at point of V. This allows for the V to turn and lay flatter. 24. Turn hem to inside. Hand stitch hem or use fusible webbing to bond in finished position. 21. Cut, clip and carefully trim up to V point. 22. Now turn hem allowance toward inside of sleeve. Press, but don t finish the hem at this point. (Photo provides a right side view of turned up hem). 25. With right sides together, sew sleeves to armholes, easing gently from notch to notch.

9 Pg Turn shirt tail hem to inside. Machine stitch or use fusible hem tape to finish this narrow hem. 28. Sew Buttons on left side of placket band. Wear open or closed. 27. On right side of placket/band, position and sew vertical buttonholes.