partment of Commerce

Transcription

1 partment of Commerce

2 Ministry of Commerce and Industry New Delhi PREFACE Organic Textiles The future of eco-clothing across the world. Consumers around the world are interested in buying organic apparels, fabrics and other related products sans pesticide residue. India being the largest producer of organic cotton offers tremendous scope for organic textiles production and exports to countries across the globe. The bulk of organic fibers and textiles produced in India are being consumed by prestigious companies in Europe and the US. While national standards and regulations exist for certification of organic food across the world, organic textiles are presently certified adhering to a number of independent private standards that have set out conditions for the use of organic fiber supporting full product claims. In view of the growing demand for organic textiles and to support organic claims of textiles industry, Indian Standard for Organic Textiles (ISOT) has been developed under the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) which will provide a major boost to the textile industry as well to the producers. These certification standards have been formulated by a Technical Committee (Textiles) of the NPOP and are being introduced at the national level under the legal regime administered by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry as part of the Foreign Trade Policy. ISOT will serve as a useful reference manual for implementing the organic textiles programs of NPOP. Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

3 Contents Objective 6 Scope 6 Label/Labelling 6 Quality Parameters of Finished Products (Except Indigo Dyed Products) 7 Orientation Values for Residues in Organic Textiles 8 General Requirements for Accessories 8 Environmental Management 8 Social Standards 9 Storage, Packaging and Transport 9 Documentation and Internal Quality Assurance 10 Analysis and Residue Testing 10 Annex 1: Prohibited Substances During Textile Processing 12 Annex 2: Restricted and Allowed Substances During Textile Processing 13 Annex 3: Guidance on Use of Chemicals and Auxiliaries & Quality 14 Parameters of Finished Products Annex 4: Orientation Values for Residues in Organic Textiles 15 Annex 5: Requirements for Additional Materials and Accessories 17 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

4 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles (ISOT covers textiles of organic cotton and silk) 1. Objective To ensure veracity of the organic status of fibre in textiles and apparels, right from cultivation and harvesting of organic cotton through processing and labelling To provide assurance of the organic nature of the fibre used and to convey that the process of manufacturing has been done in a socially and environmentally sound manner 2. Scope This standard for organic textiles covers the cultivation and production of organic fibres, and the manufacturing, processing, packaging, labelling and distribution of organic textiles. The final product may include fibres, yarns, fabrics, made-up and garments including home textile products. Textile products that are produced and manufactured in compliance with this standard shall be certified under the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP). 3. Label/Labelling The final products should be labelled as organic or made with organic as per the percentage content of organic fibre in the final product. 3.1 Label as Organic If the textile part of the product contains 95 per cent certified organic fibre and is subsequently treated as per this standard, it can be labelled as organic and organic in conversion. The non-organic content of 5 per cent could be composed of the following regenerated and man-made fibre. Regenerated cellulose fibres Viscose, Acetate and Lyocell Polyester made from post-consumer recycled material Polyurethane (Elastane) Polyamide 3.2 Label as Made with Organic If the organic fibre content is less than 95 per cent and more than 70 per cent in the final product, the textiles should be labelled as made with organic fibre. The rest 6 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

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6 5. Orientation Values for Residues in Organic Textiles Final products labelled according to these standards shall comply with the chemical quality parameters given in Annex 4. The licensee of the final product must indicate information on any potential non-compliance(s) in the product declaration. 6. General Requirements for Accessories The materials used for accessories must be free from PVC and product materials derived from endangered species. All accessories should be tested and must meet the requirements of residue limit mentioned in Annex For Yarn and Fabric Materials Natural/man-made fibres (Polyester, Viscose, Nylon, Polyurethane) are permitted but preferably natural materials should be used as much as possible. 6.2 For Appliqué Only natural materials are permitted. 6.3 For Metal Part Metal, free from chrome and nickel is permitted. The requirement for additional material and accessories is given in Annex Environmental Management 7.1 Management Practices Theprocessingunitshallhavepoliciesandproceduresinplaceforenvironmentalmanagement as per the norms of the respective State and Central Pollution Control Boards. The environmental management practices should cover the following: Effective Environment Management System with a written Policy Statement Delegation of responsibilities Monitoring air and water pollution as well as solid waste management plan to Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 8

7 Optimum utilisation of water, energy and dyes/chemicals/auxiliaries in use along with plans and strategy to minimise usage further Waste disposal programme Training Complete records of all the activities 7.2 Waste Water Treatment Waste water, before discharge, shall be purified to the extent it meets the local standards as laid down by the Pollution Control Board. Waste water analyses and treatment details should be documented. The effluent treatment plants for the waste water processing must have an approval as per the norms laid by the State or Central Pollution Control Boards. 8. Social Standards The processing units shall follow the social standards in accordance with the prevailing law of the land. 9. Storage, Packaging and Transport Organic product integrity shall be maintained during packaging, storage and transportation by segregation from conventional products. The packaging materials must be free from PVC and external treatment such as biocide or pesticides. Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 9

8 10. Documentation and Internal Quality Assurance The requirements for documentation and internal quality assurance shall apply as per Section 4 of NPOP for inspection and certification at all the stages of handling. Each step in the handling of the product, for all operations shall be documented during the audit trail by the certification bodies. The audit trail should ensure organic integrity relating to the nature of the raw material used, the quantity and reconciliation of these raw materials with the final products. The operator of the final product shall be responsible for ensuring the organic integrity in the entire processing chain. 11. Analysis and Residue Testing Risk analysis can be carried out at any stage of processing during the inspection right from ginning to final product. For ensuring integrity, samples for residue testing and GM testing shall be taken Mandatory Verification Verification is mandatory for ensuring compliance to the ISOT during the inspection by the accredited certification body right from fibre to final product During Production The inspection requirements of NPOP standard will apply to individual operations in textile manufacturing. System plan should be submitted by the operator to the accredited certification body in the approved format. The operator and certification body shall maintain the documentation that contains the following information: Description of the production unit in terms of name, facility, location, activity being performed and output being produced List of all the practical measures taken at the unit to ensure compliance of the unit A conformity certificate of the company s compliance of its operations as per NPOP textile standards Maintain purchase and sale records of organic blend inputs and outputs Records should be accurate, complete and easily auditable to enable the certification body to trace the organic fibre at different stages of processing 10 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

9 The certification body must ensure that the operator has valid certificates of all the suppliers of organic cotton during the physical audit A representative of the company seeking certification must sign the statement with description, list of practical measures taken for compliance with the ISOT If any deficiencies and non-compliances are observed and identified by the certification body during the inspection, the same should be communicated to the operator seeking certification The operator should countersign the non-compliance (NC) report and take necessary corrective measures Certification should be granted after deficiencies or non-conformities are corrected by the operator and physically verified by the accredited certification agency Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 11

10 Annex 1 Prohibited Substances During Textile Processing Sr. No. Substances 1. Solvents: Aromatic, Halogenated 2. Phenols and Chlorophenols 3. APEO-based detergents 4. Complexing agents such as EDTA, DTPA, and similar persistent complexing agent 5. Formaldehyde, Glyoxal 6. Genetically Modified Organisms (GMOs) and their derivatives (Enzymes) 7. Inputs containing heavy metals such as Antimony, Arsenic, Cadmium, Chromium, Cobalt, Lead, Mercury, Nickel, Selenium, Zinc, Copper and Tin beyond ETAD limit 8. Flurocarbons 9. Organotin compounds 10. Quaternary Ammonium compounds namely DTDMAC, DSDMAC and DHTDMAC 11. Plastisols 12. Flame proofing chemicals 12 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

11 Annex 2 Restricted and Allowed Substances During Textile Processing Sr. No. Processing Stage Restriction/Allowed Limits: Product and Process 1. Spinning Use of products is restricted to: Paraffin, Paraffin oils, natural waxes and substances derived from natural raw materials 2. Sizing, weaving and knitting Synthetic binder not to exceed 20 per cent on weight of starch/starch derivatives-based product (GMO-free) Preservatives need to be eco-friendly Knitting and weaving oil must be heavy metal free (ETAD limit) 3. Non-woven Processes are restricted to: mechanical compacting, webbing and entangling 4. Ammonia treatment Processing only in closed circuit 5. Bleaching Restricted to only oxygen-based (Peroxide, Ozone, etc.) bleaches 6. Desizing/ Bio-finishing Use is restricted to only GMO-free enzymes 7. Mercerisation Caustic wash liquor to be recycled/reused 8. Dyeing a. Dye stuffs to meet ETAD limits b. Use is restricted to dye stuffs free of objectionable amines (MAC group III 1, 2, 3) Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 13

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13 Annex 4 Orientation Values for Residues in Organic Textiles Sr. No. Parameters Test Methods Criteria 1. Chlorophenols PCP, TeCP ISO o-phenylphenol Extraction; Analysis on GC/MS 3. Amines (amine releasing azo dyes) EN IS: < 0.01 mg/kg < 1.0 mg/kg < 30 mg/kg 4. AOX ISO 9562 < 0.5 mg/kg 5. Disperse Dyes (classified as allergenic or carcinogenic) 6. Formaldehyde - Free - Released DIN ISO , IS: I ISO , IS: II < 30 mg/kg < 16 mg/kg 7. Glyoxal and Other Short Chain Aldehydes Extraction, MBTH, UV-Vis < 20 mg/kg 8. ph, aqueous extract ISO 3071, IS Pesticides Extraction, GC & GC/MS < 0.1 mg/kg Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 15

14 Sr. No. Parameters Test Methods Criteria 10. Heavy Metals ISO 105 E04 Extraction) Antimony (Sb) Arsenic (As) Lead (Pb) Cadmium (Cd) Chromium (Cr) Chromium VI (Cr VI) Cobalt (Co) Copper (Cu) Nickel (Ni) Mercury (Hg) Selenium (Se) 11. Organotin Compounds - MBT - DBT - TBT Additional Tests for Accessories 12. Disperse Dyes (classified as allergenic or carcinogenic) Determination by using: ICP-MS (DIN H22)/ICP-OES (ISO 11885)/AAS Extraction, GC/MS DIN < 0.2 mg/kg < 0.2 mg/kg < 1.0 mg/kg (outerwear) < 0.2 mg/kg (others) < 0.1 mg/kg < 2.0 mg/kg (outerwear) < 1.0 mg/kg (others) < 0.5 mg/kg < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear) < 1.0 mg/kg (others) < 50 mg/kg (outerwear) < 25 mg/kg (others) < 4.0 mg/kg (outerwear) < 1.0 mg/kg (others) < 0.02 mg/kg < 0.2 mg/kg < 0.1 mg/kg < 0.05 mg/kg < 0.05 mg/kg < 30 mg/kg 13. Formaldehyde - Free ISO , IS: I < 75 mg/kg (no skin contact) 14. Nickel Release EN 12472, EN 1811 <0.5 μg/cm2/week 16 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

15 Annex 5 Requirements for Additional Materials and Accessories Sr. No. Additional Materials Criteria 1. Permitted fibre materials for the remaining balance of the non-organic product material composition according to clause 3.1 and 3.2 Conventional natural fibres (all non-gmo vegetables and animal fibres) Mineral fibres (except asbestos) Regenerated fibres (cellulose-based such as Viscose, Modal, Lyocell or Acetate and Protein based; the raw materials used must be non-gmo Synthetic (polymer) fibres: (only Polyamide, Polyester, Polypropylene and Polyurethane (Elastane) The additional fibre materials may be mixed with the organic fibre materials to the fabric or used in certain details of the product. 2. Permitted general material All additional materials must meet the limit values for residues as listed in Annex 2. Natural materials including biotic material (such as natural fibre, wood, leather, horn, bone, stone shell) and inorganic material (such as minerals and metals) Regenerated and synthetic materials if their use is not explicitly restricted in the below list of accessories Following is prohibited for use: - Chrome (e.g. as component of a metal) - Nickel (e.g. as component of a metal) - Material from threatened animals, plant and timber - PVC All materials used for accessories must not contain any prohibited input as listed in Annex 1 and must meet the limit values of residues as listed in Annex 2. Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 17

16 Sr. No. Additional Materials Criteria 3. Appliqué, borders, buckles, cords, hatbands, laces, linings, supports and frames 4. Buttons and press-studs, edgings, elastic bands and yarns, embroidery yarns, fasteners and closing systems, inlays, interface, labels, interlinings, pockets, seam bindings, sewing threads, shoulder pads, zips 5. Other, not explicitly listed accessories Allowed are natural materials and material compositions that are permitted for the applicable labelling as defined in clause 3 Label/Labelling. As specified in material in general apply. Allowed are natural materials and material compositions that are permitted for the applicable labelling under clause grade. The accredited certification body may grant exceptions for other materials if the required properties cannot be achieved by using natural materials. 18 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles

17 ABBREVIATIONS ETAD : Ecological and Toxicological Association of Dyes Pigments Manufactures and Organic GMO : Genetically Modified Organism APEO : Alkylphenolethoxylate EDTA : Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid PVC : Polyvinyl Chloride DTPA : Diethylenetriamine Penta-acetate Acid DTDMAC : Dimethyldioctadecylammoniumchloride DSDMAC : Distearyldimethylammonium-Chloride DHTDMAC : Dihydrogenated Tallow Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride Indian Standards for Organic Textiles 19

18 Indian Standards for Organic Textiles (ISOT) (National Programme for Organic Production) 3 rd Floor, NCUI Building, 3 - Siri Institutional Area, August Kranti Marg, New Delhi Tel: , , , , Fax: headq@apeda.gov.in, Website: