Eco-friendly Conditioners

Transcription

1 Eco-friendly Conditioners TETRANYL CO-40 QUARTAMIN BTC-131 The technology of KAO s surfactants applied to hair care in an environmentally respectful manner

2 Market Requirements and Trends The mission of Kao Chemicals Europe, in line with the mission of Kao Japan, consists of fulfilling market requirements by means of the development, production and marketing of products, achieving a reasonable level of profit and constantly improving its own competitive position and contributing to the development of the people who make up the company, within a framework of full respect for the social and natural environment. For many years health and beauty have been gaining more and more relevance in our society. Hair care is no exception and it has become more important in every culture worldwide to maintain attractive and healthy hair. In a way, health and beauty lend a certain status in terms of a person s image. For that reason hair is required to look perfect at any given moment in our everyday life. Regardless of the type of hair, style, colour, sex, or even the age of a person, hair care should provide tools to enhance hair beauty and protect it from environmental factors. Formulators and manufacturers know all this and follow all the trends and fashion tendencies, while not forgetting the importance of the environment, as this is crucial for the protection of nature. QUARTAMIN BTC-131 TETRANYL CO-40 Biodegradation High performance Safety High concentration

3 Eco-friendly Conditioners Even though monoalkylquats are still today the most commonly used cationic surfactants in hair rinses, it is also known that these products present limitations with regard to their ecotoxicity properties. Kao Chemicals Europe offers three different products presenting good biodegradability and low toxicity to the aquatic environment. These green products are a long alkylchain amidoamine () and two different esterquats (TETRANYL CO-40 and QUARTAMIN BTC-131). R NH N O INCI: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Appearance: White pellets Active Matter: 100 Solvent: None RCO = Behenyl chain OH R O N + - SO 4 O O R O TETRANYL CO-40 INCI: Dioleyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate Appearance: Transparent low viscous liquid. Active Matter: 80 Solvent: Glycol RCO = Oleyl chain R O O OH Cl N + INCI: Behenoyl PG-Trimonium Chloride Appearance: Highly viscous paste Active Matter: 60 QUARTAMIN BTC-131 Solvent: Glycol and Water RCO = Behenyl chain

4 Eco-toxicological Profile Amidoamines are readily biodegradable (under both aerobic and anaerobic conditions), compatible with anionic surfactants and easier to work with than the corresponding monoalkyl quats. Amidoamines are produced by the reaction of dimethylaminopropylamine with a fatty acid. High-purity behenic acid (98 of C 22 ), the saturated fatty acid typical of behen oil is used for the production of. Amidoamines are non-ionic surfactants, which can be converted into cationic surfactants by the addition of any mineral or organic acid. Another group of green quats showing a good environmentally-friendly profile are the esterquats. This group includes a wide variety of different chemical structures, having as their common feature the presence of an ester bond between the long alkyl chain and the nitrogen atom. QUARTAMIN BTC-131 represents one example of these chemical structures. This product is a mono esterquat and also a behenic acid derivative (C 22 alkyl chain). TETRANYL CO-40 is another product in this family, an oleic acid derivative. TETRANYL CO-40 is a liquid product due to the use of oleic acid (standard esterquats are based on tallow fatty acid and are highly viscous pastes). POSITIONING ECO-TOX PROFILE Average Scaled Acute Toxicity Not readily Biodegradable Low Eco-toxicity High Eco-toxicity Readily Biodegradable 100 *Bigger balls indicate a better overall biodegradability-ecotoxicity product profile. Biodegradability (60 days) AMIDET APA-22 QUARTAMIN BTC-131 TETRANYL CO-40 SAPDMA CTAC BTAC Biodegradation must be higher than 60 after 28 days and aquatic toxicity to algae, fish and daphnia must be higher than 1mg/L for an eco-friendly surfactant.

5 Hair Rinse 100 Conditioner Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a highly effective cationic surfactant for conditioners when properly neutralized with an acid. It does not include any solvent (100 active matter). A better sensory profile is observed for comparing its overall conditioning performance with other more widely used monoalkyl quats used in hair conditioner. It can be concluded that a longer alkyl chain has a positive effect on conditioning (combing force) on wet hair. Therefore it can also be concluded that C 22 is better than C 18 and much better than C 16. SENSORIAL EVALUATION 1.5 CATIONIC Conditioner+3 CETEARYL ALCOHOL Application 5 Loose hair Fly-away Rinse-off Detangling Normal hair conditioner KALCOL 6850P Cetearyl Alcohol C Volume Wet combing AMIDET APA -22 Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine 1.23 Dry feel Wet smoothness Lactic Acid 0.27 Dry combing CTAC BTAC SAPDMA AMIDET APA-22 Key: 1 very bad, 5 very good CTAC: Cetrimonium Chloride BTAC: Behentrimonium Chloride SAPDMA: Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Additives Deionized Water COMBING FORCE

6 Hair Rinse TETRANYL CO-40 Easy Handling TETRANYL CO-40 is an oleic-acid-derived esterquat, which gives a very smooth feel to hair due to its two alkyl chains. It is especially suitable for formulations which require a controlled fly-away effect, good manageability and low volume effect. These requirements are suitable for anti-frizz conditioners and products for wavy and curly hair. Thanks to its liquidity, TETRANYL CO-40 is easy to handle and can be incorporated at room temperature, if no other components with high melting point are present in the formula. Combining TETRANYL CO-40 and in the same formula creates synergistic effects in terms of reduced viscosity and combing force, especially when used in the ratio 1:1 (Formulation C-131). Hair Rinse QUARTAMIN BTC-131 Green Formulation Our QUARTAMIN BTC-131 shows a similar conditioning performance to that of in terms of reduced combing force. Furthermore, it does not require very high temperatures or neutralization to be incorporated in a hair rinse formulation. QUARTAMIN BTC-131 has been registered with the SSNC (Swedish Society of Nature Conservation). Formulators can get the SSNC ecolabel (Good environmental choice ecolabel) using products from this list. QUARTAMIN BTC-131 and TETRANYL CO-40 can be combined in formulations obtaining extraordinary synergistic effects in terms of performance. These green cream rinse formulations are better in terms of combing forces than existing high performance market products. C -131* VISCOSITY ENHANCEMENT COMBING FORCE C -132 KALCOL 6850P Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 KALCOL 6850P Cetearyl Alcohol 2.5 TETRANYL CO-40 Dioleyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Lactic Acid All conditioners contain 1.5 active cationic and 3 cetearyl alcohol QUARTAMIN BTC-131 Behenoyl PG -Trimonium Chloride TETRANYL CO-40 Dioleoyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate Additives Deionized Water Additives Deionized Water * Market product contains the same cationic active matter as C-132 and the same amount of fatty alcohol, but cationic surfactants are not eco-friendly. * 1.5 active cationic KEY: Highly Recommended Recommended Not Recommended

7 Eco-Friendly Conditioning Shampoo Small amounts of cationic surfactants can be added to shampoo bases without stability problems. Our three eco-friendly products are perfectly compatible with anionic surfactants in conditioning shampoos (2-in-1 shampoos). In the case of, no neutralization is necessary and it can be incorporated as a non-ionic surfactant. When incorporating, TETRANYL CO-40 or QUARTAMIN BTC- 131 into a shampoo composition, combing forces are significantly lowered, achieving in some cases similar values as for shampoos containing cationic polymers. With AMIDET APA-22 or QUARTAMIN BTC-131, transparent shampoos are obtained, while TETRANYL CO-40 can be used for opaque or pearled shampoos. COMBING FORCE Base: Sodium Laureth Sulfate (10), Cocamidopropyl Betaine (3), PEG-4 rapeseedamide (2) HAIR GLOSS SHAMPOO When cationically charged molecules such as TETRANYL CO-40 or QUARTAMIN BTC-131 are incorporated into a shampoo composition containing solubilized oils and silicones, they contribute towards their release onto the hair surface, thus increasing the hair gloss effect. Basic Economical Environmentally - Friendly C C EMAL 270 D Sodium Laureth Sulfate AKYPO SOFT 100 BVC Sodium Laureth- 11 Carboxylate Basic Economical Environmentally-Friendly Formulation The basic formula is a green system designed for a range of liquid personal care products AKYPO FOAM RL 40 Sodium Laureth- 5 Carboxylate LEVENOL H&B Glycereth - 2 Cocoate AMIDET N PEG-4 Rapeseedamide whose features are the following: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine As few raw materials as possible Preservative-free raw materials Highly concentrated raw materials QUARTAMIN BTC-131 Behenoyl PG -Trimonium Chloride Additives Deionized Water Easy to handle raw materials

8 Colour Protection Shampoo There is a growing market for colour protection shampoos nowadays, since more people are colouring their hair. There are different concepts of colour protection shampoos on the market where some of them include some colour pigments in the formulation, while others only include a surfactant blend which prevents colour from fading. Due to the fact that is a highly hydrophobic molecule capable of forming a film over the hair fibre, when it is incorporated into shampoo formulations it prevents colour from fading. is significantly better than other non-ionic surfactants in terms of colour protection. For this reason, some prototypes including as a non-ionic surfactant have been developed. This resulted in a positive performance compared to market leader products. EMAL 270 E/D Sodium Laureth Sulfate BETADET S- 20 Lauryl Hydroxysultaine AMIDET APA -22 Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine Additives Deionized Water C RETAINED COLOUR KEY: Suitable Non Suitable

9 Hair Colouration: There exist in the market a wide variety of different hair colour concepts. In general, surfactants are used to give consistency and stability to the emulsions (gelling). Non-ionic and cationic surfactants may also play a role in conditioning the hair during colouring. This is necessary, as hair colour often contains alkalis and peroxides, which are aggressive to the hair fibres. By using (C 22 amidoamine) higher viscosities are obtained, while hair is better protected, as observed by contact angle measurements and Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM). Oleth-13 Oleic Acid Ethanol Monoethanolamine *Amidoamine Toluene 2,5-diamine Resorcin Sodium Sulfate Ascorbic Acid Tetrasodium EDTA Water C *Behenic (C 22): Stearic (C 18): SAPDMA Lauric/Myristic (C 12-14): CAPDMA HAIR SURFACE CHARACTERIZATION SAPDMA SEM images, 1:900 zoom resolution.

10 Summary Function Claims Products Hair rinse Shampoos Hair dyes AMIDET APA-22 QUARTAMIN BTC-131 TETRANYL CO-40 - Conditioning - Hair Protection - Reduced combing force - Antistatic control - Feeling improvement - Slight conditioning - Thickening - Colour protection - Slight conditioning - Antistatic control - Thickening - Protecting agent active matter - Superior feel during application - Static charge control - Multifunctional - Best eco-tox profile - Low process temperature - Suitable for economy products - Easy handling - Exceptional static charge control More formulations containing, QUARTAMIN BTC-131 and TETRANYL CO-40 available on request. At Kao, we believe that sustainable and eco-friendly products are the only option in the world today to guarantee the future. In accordance with the corporate commitment of The Kao Way, Kao Chemicals Europe s aim is to provide, by recommending our especially green surfactants, solutions for the care and beauty of hair as well as of the environment. Formulations C-075, C-129, C-130, C-131, C-132 and C-133 are suitable for getting European Eco Certificates.

11 The Kao Way Mission Our Mission is to strive for the wholehearted satisfaction and enrichment of the lives of people globally through the Company s core domain of value added chemicals. Fully committed to this mission, all members of the Kao Group work together with passion to provide products of excellent value created from the customer s perspective. In so doing, we share joy with the customer. Vision We aim to be a global group of companies that is closest to the customer in each market, earning the respect and trust of all stakeholders and contributing towards the sustainable development of society. Kao Chemicals Europe Kao Corporation, S.A. Puig dels Tudons, 10 E Barberà del Vallès (Barcelona) Spain Tel: Fax: sales@kao.es Kao Chemicals GmbH Kupferstrasse 1 D Emmerich, Germany Tel: +49(0) Fax:+49(0) sales@kaochemicals.de Our Chemicals, Your Business