HAIR CARE PRODUCTS: SHAMPOOS AND CONDITIONERS

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1 1 HAIR CARE PRODUCTS: SHAMPOOS AND CONDITIONERS Table of Contents INTRODUCTION TO HAIR CARE PRODUCTS 7 CHEMISTRY OF OUR HAIR CHEMISTRY OF OUR HAIR FOLLICLE AND GROWTH CYCLES VIRGIN HAIR DEFINITION OF GOOD CONDITION HOW IS HAIR DAMAGED? FRICTION TENSION CHANGING THE CHEMISTRY OF YOUR HAIR CHEMICAL PROCESSING MECHANICAL PROCESSING SIDE NOTE ON SEBUM A SIDE NOTE WHY DOES OUR HAIR GO GREY? AFRICAN HAIR TYPES FINE HAIR DANDRUFF PRONE HAIR WHY COLD PROCESS SOAP DOES NOT WORK AS A SHAMPOO HOW SHAMPOO WORKS! What are the goals of a shampoo? FORMULATING A REGULAR SHAMPOO BASIC SHAMPOO RECIPE SURFACTANTS SURFACTANTS: SOME BASIC INFORMATION A SIDE NOTE: HOW TO INTERPRET SURFACTANT NAMES A SIDE NOTE ON SUBSTANTIVITY SURFACTANT CHEMISTRY: MICELLES SURFACTANT TYPES: CARBOXYLATES SURFACTANT TYPES: SULFATES (OR SULPHATES)

2 SURFACTANT TYPES: ALKYL SULFATES (like SLS) SURFACTANT TYPES: ALKYL ETHER SULFATES SURFACTANT TYPES: AMIDE ETHER SULFATES SURFACTANT TYPES: ALKYL GLYCERIDE SULFATES SURFACTANT TYPES: ALKYL SULFONATES SURFACTANT TYPES: ALKYL-ARYL SULFONATES SURFACTANT TYPES: SULFOSUCCINATES SURFACTANT TYPES: FATTY ACID ISETHIONATE SURFACTANT TYPES: TAURATES OR TAURIDES SURFACTANT TYPES: PHOSPHATE ESTERS SURFACTANT TYPES: ACYL-AMINO ACIDS & SALTS SURFACTANT TYPES: SULFOACETATES SURFACTANT TYPES: COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE SURFACTANTS: ALKYL POLYGLUCOSIDES OR GLYCOSIDES SURFACTANT TYPES: ETHANOLAMINES OR ALKANOLAMIDES INGREDIENTS YOU'LL FIND IN HAIR CARE PRODUCTS OTHER INGREDIENTS YOU LL FIND IN SHAMPOO: A QUICK SUMMARY 57 HUMECTANTS 59 GLYCERIN 59 SODIUM LACTATE 60 SODIUM PCA (salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) 61 HYDROVANCE 61 ALOE VERA 62 CATIONIC POLYMERS 65 Polyquat 4 Polyquat 7 Polyquat 10 Polyquat 44 Honeyquat 67 A SIDE NOTE ON BUILD-UP 68 SILICONES 70 Cyclomethicone 70 Dimethicone 71 ANTI-FRIZZ PRODUCTS WITH SILICONES 73 BASIC ANTI-FRIZZ SPRAY 73 BASIC ANTI-FRIZZ SERUM 73 SILICONE REPLACEMENTS 74 C12-15 alkyl benzoate (called EmEster or Crodamol AB from Croda) 74

3 Crodamol STS (aka PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate) Silicone SR-5 by Preperse AquaEm Ethylhexyl palmitate (also known as octyl palmitate) FILM FORMING STATIC CHARGE DRY AND WET COMBING HYDROLYSED PROTEINS HYDROLYSED OAT PROTEIN HYDROLYSED SILK PROTEIN PHYTOKERATIN EXTRACTS AND HYDROSOLS PANTHENOL MOISTURIZERS PEG-7 OLIVATE CRODAMOL PMP USING AN EMULSIFIER PRESERVATIVES CROTHIX: VISCOSITY ENHANCER GLYCOL DISTEARATE: VISCOSITY ENHANCER INCREASING THE VISCOSITY OF SURFACTANT BASED PRODUCTS INCREASING THE SURFACTANT CONCENTRATION THE SALT CURVE INCREASE THE SIZE OF THE MICELLES CREATING A GEL FRAGRANCES AND VISCOSITY FRAGRANCES AND CLARITY HOW TO TELL IF A FRAGRANCE IS POLAR OR NON-POLAR? INCREASING MILDNESS OF SURFACTANT BASED PRODUCTS SHAMPOO RECIPES INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING SHAMPOO CREATING A CLARIFYING SHAMPOO NOT FOR DAILY USE CLARIFYING SHAMPOO RECIPE FOR NORMAL HAIR NOT FOR DAILY USE CLARIFYING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR CREATING A CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR NORMAL HAIR CONDITIONING SHAMPOO RECIPE FOR NORMAL HAIR CREATING A CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR OILY HAIR CONDITIONING SHAMPOO RECIPE FOR OILY HAIR CREATING A CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR NORMAL TO OILY HAIR WITH SCI CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR NORMAL HAIR WITH SCI

4 4 CREATING A 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO FOR NORMAL TO OILY HAIR DAILY USE 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER FOR NORMAL TO OILY HAIR CREATING A CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR 111 CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH GLYCOL DISTEARATE 112 CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH PEG-7 COCOATE, COCAMIDE DEA, OR WATER SOLUBLE OILS 113 CREATING A CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH SCI CONDITIONING SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR WITH SCI AND GLYCOL DISTEARATE CREATING A 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO FOR DRY HAIR DAILY USE 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR CREATING A DAILY USE SHAMPOO DAILY USE SHAMPOO FOR ALL HAIR TYPES SOLID SHAMPOO BARS SHAMPOO BAR SUITABLE FOR NORMAL TO OILY TYPES SHAMPOO BAR FOR DRY HAIR TYPES CONDITIONING SHAMPOO BAR SUITABLE FOR DRY HAIR CONDITIONERS HOW CONDITIONERS WORK HOW TO FORMULATE A CONDITIONER INCROQUAT BTMS-50 CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE INCROQUAT CR CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE INCROQUAT OSC FATTY ALCOHOLS AND CATIONIC QUATERNARY COMPOUNDS CETYL ALCOHOL CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETYL ESTERS DEFINING DIFFERENT TYPES OF CONDITIONERS Rinse off conditioners Crème rinses Intense or treatment conditioners Leave-in conditioners CONDITIONER RECIPES BASIC RINSE OFF CONDITIONER (every day use) BASIC RINSE OFF CONDITIONER (not for every day use) BASIC RINSE OFF CONDITIONER (for dry or damaged hair types) BASIC INTENSE CONDITIONER (not for every day use)

5 BASIC LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING CONDITIONERS FORMULATING RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS WITH HYDROSOLS AND EXTRACTS MODIFIED CONDITIONER RECIPE WITH EXTRACTS AND HYDROSOLS ORANGE & GRAPESEED OILY HAIR CONDITIONER ALOE & CHAMOMILE CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR ALOE, GREEN TEA & PEPPERMINT CONDITIONER FOR NORMAL HAIR A note on infusions FORMULATING RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS WITH HYDROLYSED PROTEINS BASIC RINSE OFF CONDITIONER WITH HYDROLYZED PROTEIN ROSE, ROSEMARY & OAT CONDITIONER FOR OILY HAIR ALOE, CHAMOMILE, AND SILK CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR FORMULATING RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS WITH SILICONES BASIC HAIR CONDITIONER WITH SILICONES ORANGE & GRAPESEED OILY HAIR CONDITIONER WITH HYDROLYZED PROTEINS AND SILICONES ALOE & CHAMOMILE CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR FORMULATING RINSE OFF CONDITIONERS WITH OILS INTENSE CONDITIONER WITH OILS RINSE OFF CONDITIONER WITH OILS SUITABLE FOR DRY HAIR OLIVE OIL INTENSE CONDITIONER RECIPE WITH OLIVE OIL COCONUT OIL BASIC INTENSE CONDITIONER WITH COCONUT OIL INTENSE CONDITIONER WITH COCONUT OIL FORMULATING INTENSE CONDITIONERS WITH BUTTERS INTENSE CONDITIONER WITH BUTTERS INTENSE CONDITIONER WITH CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE & BUTTERS WINTER HAIR CUSTARD (intense conditioning) SOLID CONDITIONER BARS CONDITIONER BAR FOR NORMAL TO DRY HAIR CONDITIONER BAR SUITABLE FOR OILY HAIR FORMULATING LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS SWIFT'S FAVOURITE LEAVE IN CONDITIONER FORMULATING LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS WITH HYDROSOLS AND EXTRACTS SWIFT'S FAVOURITE LEAVE IN CONDITIONER MODIFIED TO INCLUDE ALOE VERA, LAVENDER, AND ROSEMARY CHAMOMILE & GREEN TEA HYDRATING LEAVE IN CONDITIONER HONEY, FRUIT & FLOWERS LEAVE IN CONDITIONER FOR NORMAL HAIR FORMULATING LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS WITH INCROQUAT CR SWIFT'S FAVOURITE WINTER TIME LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH INCROQUAT CR SWIFT'S FAVOURITE SUMMER TIME LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH FEWER HUMECTANTS AND INCROQUAT CR FORMULATING LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS WITH OILS LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH OILS LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH COCONUT OIL

6 6 FORMULATING VERY LIGHT LEAVE IN CONDITIONERS FOR FINE HAIR BASIC LIGHT LEAVE IN CONDITIONER WITH CATIONIC POLYMERS LEAVE-IN DETANGLER WITH CATIONIC POLYMERS AND CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE CONDITIONER RECIPES USING CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE 180 BASIC HAIR CONDITIONER WITH CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE 181 HAIR CONDITIONER WITH CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE & OILS OR BUTTERS 181 CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE CONDITIONER FOR OILY HAIR 182 CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE CONDITIONER FOR DRY HAIR 182 LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER WITH CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE FOR NORMAL, BUT PROBABLY DAMAGED, HAIR 183 FORMULATING CRÈME RINSES BASIC RINSE OFF CREAM RINSE CREAM RINSE WITH EXTRA DETANGLING PROPERTIES CREAM RINSE WITH VARIOUS GOODIES FORMULATING DETANGLER PRODUCTS WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE BASIC RECIPE FOR A DETANGLER SPRAY WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE DETANGLING AND LIGHT CONDITIONING SPRAY FOR FINE, PROCESSED HAIR FORMULATING DETANGLING PRODUCTS WITH INCROQUAT CR BASIC DETANGLING SPRAY WITH INCROQUAT CR DETANGLING SPRAY WITH INCROQUAT CR DETANGLING SPRAY WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE AND INCROQUAT CR FORMULATING DETANGLING PRODUCTS WITH AMAZE XT 191 DETANGLING GEL WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 191 DETANGLING AND LIGHT CONDITIONING GEL WITH CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 192 DETANGLING, LIGHT CONDITIONING, AND STYLING GEL WITH DETANGLING PROPERTIES USING AMAZE XT 192 EPILOGUE 194

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