Finland, the Norwegian Arctic and the Baltic States

Transcription

1 Birding Trip Report Finland, the Norwegian Arctic and the Baltic States June 2016 A Gyrfalcon prepares to fly after finishing a meal of Kittiwake at Ekkerøy, Varanger Peninsula, Norway at midnight The remains of a Kittiwake, taken by the same Gyrfalcon 1

2 A) Fenno-Scandinavia Typical birding territory in the Arctic tundra of Norway s Varanger Peninsula (but atypical weather!) SUMMARY: A long-held dream to experience the Summer Solstice in the high Arctic combined with some north European birding came to fruition with a one-week tour of northern Finland and Norway s Varanger Peninsula, led by Finnish friend and eminent birder, Amb. Mikko Pyhȁalȁ. In addition to my family, our group included old friends from Venezuela, now based in the Canary Islands, Tony and Rita Crease. We departed Helsinki as a group on 18 June from Helsinki to Ivalo, birded Kevo National Park and surrounds and then drove to the Varanger Peninsula across the border in Norway. Our base for most of the trip was comfortable lodgings at Ekkerøy. From our base, we conducted day trips to Vardø (Hornøya Island), Hamninger, Vestre Jakobselv,Nesseby, Domen and Kongsfjod Fjell. Full details of the programme is appended to this report. All photos by the author. 2 Our base camp in a comfortable former fish processing factory, now B&B, at Ekkerøy, Varanger Peninsula, Norway

3 Our birding team: Ivan Ravu, Master Alfred McLachlan-Karr, Tony and Rita Crease, and Mikko Pyhȁlȁ A highlight of the trip was birding during the longest week of the northern year (in relatively good weather), including remarkably close views of a hunting Gyrfalcon on 21 June. In all, I managed to see 101 species in a week in Fenno-Scandinavia, of which 40 were lifers.* Long shadow cast by the midnight sun, 21 June, Ekkerøy, Norway *To see the more extreme Arctic species (King Eider, Steller s Eider, etc. a return trip, ideally in March, would be recommended. A great excuse to return next year! 3

4 Leaving Hornøya Island to return to Vardø Cliffs of Hornøya the sheer quantity of birdlife on the island is outstanding Species List: 1. Whooper Swan, Cygnus cygnus seen at two locations, on ponds and a pair dramatically flying low over the road on our way up north. 2. Mute Swan, Cygnus olor good number on ponds at Lappträsk, near Karjaa 3. Greylag Goose, Anser anser several swimming in Vardø harbour 4. Barnacle Goose, Branta leucopsis a small gaggle (8 birds) nesting in grasslands on Hornøya Island 4

5 5. Mallard, Anas platyrhychos a common denizen of ponds throughout northern Finland The humble Mallard, but still a strikingly beautiful bird 6. Gadwall, Anas strepera several at Suomenoja, 1.5 hours west of Helsinki 7. Common Pochard, Aythya farina at least 12 at Suomenoja 8. (Eurasian) Coot, Fulica atra common in larger ponds; especially so at Suomenoja 9. Eurasian Teal, Anas crecca a few pairs seen on lakes in northern Finland, but not common. Also, one seen on a lake along the Hamningberg highway in Norway 10. Greater Scaup, Aythya marila solitaries seen on several mid-sized lakes in northern Finland. Also on several Varanger Lakes in Norway. 5 Greater Scaup 11. Tufted Duck, Aythya fuligula relatively common 12. Common Scoter, Melanitta nigra distinguished at a distance by forming tights rafts of swimming birds 13. Velvet Scoter, Melanitta fusca large groups seen at Nesseby. One seen at Lake Inari. 14. Long-tailed Duck, Clangula hyemalis individuals and some pairs on higher inland freshwater lakes. Several also at sea by Indre Kiberg and Nesseby. 15. (Common) Goldeneye, Bucephala clangula seen commonly on lakes in Finland only

6 16. (Common) Eider, Somateria mollissima very common in groups at most coastal sites (Varanger) Common Eiders 17. Smew, Mergellus albellus a group of 8-01 birds (bachelor party) at the southern end of Lake Inari 18. Goosander, Mergus merganser very common throughout 19. Red-breasted Merganser, Mergus serrator less common, but seen at several sites in northern Finland; also Sandfjorden in Varanger 6

7 20. Red-throated Loon, Gavia stellata on many small freshwater lakes in northern Finland and Varanger 21. Black-throated Loon (Arctic Diver), Gavia arctica seen twice in the same habitat as above 22. Great-crested Grebe, Podiceps cristatus southern Finland, near Helsinki 23. Slavonian (Horned) Grebe, Podiceps auritus southern Finland; also one out of usual range at Ukonjȁrvi, near Inari (an exceptionally northerly example) 24. Red-necked Grebe, Podiceps grisegna several seen at known breeding site at Lapptrȁsk, near Helsinki 25. (Northern) Fulmar, Fulmarus glacialis a few birds nesting on Hornøya but not common (Northern) Fulmar pair nesting in among Kittiwakes at Hornøya 26. (Northern) Gannet, Morus bassanus seen twice flying along the coast off Hamninger 27. Great Cormorant, Phalacrocorax carbo a few seen at Hornøya and at Ekkerøy 28. (European) Shag, Phalacrocorax aristotelis common in breeding colonies on Hornøyer 7 Shag on nest at Hornøyer

8 29. White-tailed Eagle, Haliaeetus albicilla more common in northern Varanger; at one site, at least a dozen perched along cliff tops on the Vardø Ekkerøy road; also seen at Kevo NP, Finland White-tailed Eagle apparently resting after a fruitless foray into Kittiwake territory at Ekkerøy 30. Rough-legged Hawk (Buzzard), Buteo lagopus one seen flying close over taiga forest, close to Nuorgam, Finland. Also at pair at Indre Kiberg 31. Gyrfalcon, Falco rusticolus a highlight of the trip. One seen in flight close to midnight along the cliffs at Ekkerøy. The bird was later found finishing off a Kittiwake meal and resting: 8

9 Tony and Mikko near the Gyrfalcon site along the cliffs at Ekkerøy 32. Common Kestrel, Falco tinnunculus a few seen along roadsides in northern Finland 33. (Eurasian) Oystercatcher, Haematopus ostralegus very common along all shorelines 34. (Common) Ringed Plover, Charadrius hiaticula common both at coasts and inland grasslands 35. (European) Golden Plover, Pluvialis apricaria seen in grasslands at higher lake country 36. Purple Sandpiper, Calidris maritima only one seen perched on a rock at Nesseby 37. (Ruddy) Turnstone, Arenaria interpres near Hamningberg one at the coast 38. Dunlin, Calidris alpina Nesseby and on beaches near Ekkerøy 39. Temminck s Stint, Calidris temminckii several seen along sandy coastal areas 40. Sanderling, Calidris alba a pair in breeding plumage on the sandy beach of Ekkerøy caused confusion; a conundrum that was cleared up by photo sent to local experts: 41. Wood Sandpiper, Tringa glareola common 42. Common Sandpiper, Actitis hypoleucos common 43. (Common) Redshank, Tringa totanus common 44. Bar-tailed Godwit, Limosa lapponica large group observed at Nesseby 45. Whimbrel, Numenius phaeopus several individuals at various sites 9

10 46. Red-necked Phalarope, Phalaropus lobatus pairs seen on two occasions at small inland lakes 47. Arctic Skua, Stercorarius parasiticus common and breeding on grasslands 48. Long-tailed Skua, Stercorarius longicaudas seven near Nuorgam, Finland and five near Vardø. 49. (European) Herring Gull, Larus argentatus - very common everywhere 50. Great Black-backed Gull, Larus marinus common at most coastal sites 51. Little Gull, Hydrocoloeus minutus recent resident on a sand island of River Teno/Tana, near Utsjoki. At least six birds skinning the water near the international bridge 52. Black-headed Gull, Chroicocephalus ridibundus common throughout southern Finland 10

11 53. (Black-legged) Kittiwake, Rissa tridactyla in huge numbers nesting on cliffs at Ekkerøy 54. Arctic Tern, Sterna paradisaea the most common tern observed in the north 55. Common Tern, Sterna hirundo relatively common, but more southerly 56. (Atlantic) Puffin, Fratercula arctica common breeder at Hornøya 11 Puffin burrows scattered in between nests of Guillemots

12 57. Black Guillemot, Cepphus grylle seen at various sites, most notably, small groups fishing off the rocky islets of Ekkerøy 58. (Common) Guillemot (Murre), Uria aalge at least 20,000 pairs breeding on Hornøya Island 12

13 59. Brünnich s Guillemot, Uria lomvia much less common than aalge, an estimated 200 pairs breeding on Hornøya Island Brünnich s Guillemot 60. Razorbill, Alca torda common and confiding on Hornøya. Also seen swimming off the coast in small parties at Ekkerøy Razorbills were among the most confiding of all seabirds observed 13

14 61. Northern Hawk Owl, Surnia ulula one at Pulmankijȁri near Nuorgam, Finland; one just south of Utsjoki. Habit is to perched on high, dead braches, or on electricity poles 62. (Eurasian) Wryneck, Jynx torquilla one heard outside the Bird Park at Vestre Jakobslev 63. Rock Pipit, Anthus petrosus seen on two occasions on rocky outcrops at Hornøya 64. Meadow Pipit, Anthus pratensis very common in taiga grassland 65. Red-throated Pipit, Anthus cervinus common by streams in Varanger 14

15 66. White/Pied Wagtail, Motacilla alba very common, including around villages 67. (White-throated) Dipper, Cinclus cinclus one seen after rowing to its nesting site at Kevo 68. Bluethroat, ssp. Luscinia svecica svecica seen in appropriate habitat of low shrubbery at several sites 69. (Common) Redstart, Phoenicurus phoenicurus seen twice, also at Bird Park at Vestre Jakobselv 70. (Northern) Wheatear, Oenanthe oenanthe very common in taiga country 71. Whinchat, Saxicola rubetra seen twice in taiga grasslands 72. Redwing, Turdus iliacus common throughout 73. Fieldfare, Turdus pilaris very common throughout 74. Sedge Warbler, Acrocephalus schoenobaenus common in reed beds at several sites near Helsinki 75. Blyth s Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus dumetorum at Suomenoja, near Helsinki, a small group quite confiding in the under-storey 15

16 76. Blackcap, Sylvia atricapilla common 77. (Common) Whitethroat, Sylvia communis - common, especially near Helsinki 78. Willow Warbler, Phylloscopus trochilus most commonly seen (and heard) passerine of the trip 79. (Common) Chiffchaff, Phylloscopus collybita one singing on a telegraph wire on Hornøya 80. Pied Flycatcher, Ficedula hypoleuca several seen 81. Great Tit, Parus major common 82. (European) Blue Tit, Cyanistes caeruleus common in Finland only 83. Bearded Reedling, Panurus biarmicus one attracted by playback in reed beds at Lapptrȁsk (BVD) 84. Great Grey Shrike, Lanius excubitor one bird seen at Kevo struggling to carry a rodent (possible vole) back to its nest 85. (Common) Magpie, Pica pica common 86. (Eurasian) Jay, Garrulus glandarius in birch forest in northern Finland only 87. Siberian Jay, Perisoreus infaustus a family group of 12+ birds seen in coniferous forest at Kevo 88. (Western) Jackdaw, Corvus monedula common 89. Hooded Crow, Corvus cornix common 90. Raven, Corvus corax near Nuorgam; also common around Varanger; nest seen near Hamningberg 91. House Sparrow, Passer domesticus in typical peri-urban habitats 92. (Common) Chaffinch, Fringilla coelebs very common in forested areas 93. Brambling, Fringilla montifringilla very common in forested areas 94. (Common) Redpoll, Carduelis flammea one seen at privately-owned Bird Park at Vestre Jakobsen 95. Arctic Redpoll, Carduelis hornemanni a pair in suitably covered low bush habitat in northern Varanger; also seen at Bird Park at Vestre Jakobsen 96. (European) Greenfinch, Chloris chloris very common in forests 97. (Eurasian) Bullfinch, Pyrrhula pyrrhula seen at a hotel bird feeder at Hotel Kultahovi, near Inari, Finland 98. Pine Grosbeak, Pinicola enucleator seen at Four Winds Hut café bird feeder, Finland Pine Grosbeak at the birdfeeder 16

17 Female Pine Grosbeak showing dimorphic coloration - (a poor photograph taken through a window!) 99. Parrot Crossbill, Loxia pytyopsittacus one female seen at close range at Kevo NP 100. Snow Bunting, Plectrophenax nivalis several seen at Kongfjod Fjell, at one of the highest points in the Varanger 101. Lapland Bunting, Calcarius lapponicus common in taiga open grasslands in northern Varanger 17

18 Reindeer were commonly encountered by the roadside and can be a potential road hazard B) Baltic States (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania) View of Olde Towne from the ramparts, Tallinn, Estonia 18 From Helsinki, we took a comfortable, fast hydrofoil ferry to Tallinn (1.5 hours) on 27 June to begin a week s holiday in Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. While not a birding tour, we did manage to make a day outing to birding sites close to each of the capitals in the three countries:

19 Tallinn - Paljassaare Special Conservation Area (an easy taxi ride, just north of the capital) Riga Kemeri National Park (1.5 hours west of the capital, by rental car) Vilnius Baltoji Voke Conservation area (30kms south of the capital) It being July and quite hot (average degrees), the birding was relatively slow, but we enjoyed excellent sunny weather for the most part. An abridged list of birds seen follows: 1. Great-crested Grebe, Podiceps cristatus 2. Great Egret, Casmerodius albus 3. Grey Heron, Ardea cinerea 4. White Stork, Ciconia ciconia 5. (Western) Marsh Harrier, Circus aeruginous 6. Montagu s Harrier, Circus pygargus 7. (European) Honey Buzzard, Pernis apivorus 8. (Common) Kestrel, Falco tinnunculous 9. (Common) Crane, Grus grus several feeding in fields 10. (Northern) Lapwing, Vanellus vanellus a pair defending a nest from Buzzards 11. (Common) Snipe, Gallinago gallinago 12. Black-headed Gull, Chroicocephalus ridibundus 13. Common Gull, Larus canus 14. Little Tern, Sternula albifrons on ponds in Lithuania 15. Arctic Tern, Sterna paradisaea common on Paljassaare peninsula, near the radar station 16. Common Tern, Sterna hirundo 17. Black Tern, Childonias niger a few at ponds at a power station near Vilnius (we were disappointed not to see White-winged Tern) 18. Great-spotted Woodpecker, Dendrocopos major the only woodpecker found at both Kemeri and Baltoji Voke; (we dipped the hoped for Three-toed and White-backed) 19. (Common) Skylark, Alauda arvensis 20. Yellow Wagtail, Motacilla flava only one seen 21. Pied Wagtail, Motacilla alba - common 22. Thrush Nightingale, Luscinia luscinia one very confiding bird seen at close range at Paljassaare 23. Song Thrush, Turdus philomelos several feeding on the ground in forested areas 24. Barred Warbler, Sylvia nisoria a small group found in dwarf wild rose bushes at the very end of the peninsula at Paljassaare (responded readily to playback) 19 Typical habitat of low (wild rose buses) for Barred Warbler (Red Shrikes were on the wires)

20 25. Meadow Pipit, Anthus pratensis very common throughout 26. Common) Blackbird, Turdus merula 27. (European) Robin, Erithacus rubecula 28. Barn Swallow, Hirundo rustica 29. Common Swift, Apus apus 30. (Common) House Martin, Delichon urbicum 31. Garden Warbler, Sylvia borin 32. Blackcap, Sylvia atricapilla 33. (Common) Whitethroat, Sylvia communis 34. Lesser Whitethroat, Sylvia curruca 35. (Eurasian) Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus scirpaceus common at all marsh sites 36. Great Reed Warbler, Acrocephalus arundinaceus common at marshes 37. Icterine Warbler, Hippolais icterina one seen singing in a birch tree at a picnic site near Baltoji Voke 38. Booted Warbler, Iduna caligata an individual responded to playback and seen well in low bushes bordering marshes at Paljassaare 39. (Winter) Wren, Troglodytes troglodytes 40. Spotted Flycatcher, Muscicapa striata 41. Pied Flycatcher, Ficedula hypolecua 42. Marsh Tit, Poecile palustris common in old wood forests (where the woodpeckers were supposed to be!) 43. (Eurasian) Penduline Tit, Remiz pendulinus seemed to be fairly common in polar trees bordering marshes in Paljassaare 44. (Eurasian) Nuthatch, Sitta europaea Baltoji Voke forest only 45. (Eurasian) Treecreeper, ssp. Certhia familiaris familiaris Baltoji Voke forest 46. Red-backed Shrike, Lanius collurio in same habitat as Barred Warbler at Paljassaare 47. Rook, Corvus frugilegus 48. (Western) Jackdaw, Corvus monedula common, also in towns 49. Hooded Crow, Corvus cornix in urban areas 50. (Common) Starling, Sturnus vulgaris 51. (Eurasian) Tree Sparrow, Passer montanus 52. (European) Goldfinch, Carduelis carduelis 53. (Eurasian) Siskin, Carduelis spinus 54. Hawfinch, Coccothraustes coccothraustes Kemeri 20

21 55. Common Rosefinch, Carpodacus erythrinus commonly seen sitting on telephone wires and singing lustily at Paljassaare 56. (Common) Reed Bunting, Emberiza schoeniclus at most reed bed sites 57. Rustic Bunting, Emberiza rustica one seen feeding in a field at Paljassaare 58. Yellowhammer, Emberiza citrinella one seen singing in Birch at Baltoji Voke Sunset at 23:00, Tallinn, Estonia David McLachlan-Karr Geneva, 6 July 2016 Comments welcome: davidwkarr@gmail.com 21

22 Arctic visit Programme (prepared by Mikko Pyhȁlȁ): Friday, 17 June: 20:00 Arrival of party from Geneva at Helsinki Vantaa airport by SAS. Accommodation at Airport Holiday Inn, Ralssitie 2 Saturday, 18 June 10:40 Departure of David, Ivan, Alfred, Tony, Rita and Mikko by Finnair AY557 to Ivalo 12:10 Arrival at Ivalo airport. Pick up rental vehicle. Quick birding in Ivalo for Little Bunting (not found) 15:00 Lunch at Hotel-Restaurant Kultaportti 16:30 Birding at Mielikköjärvi tower for Scaup and others, and at Juurakkovuopaja Tower (Smew) Drive to Inari (39 km). Drive to Kaamanen, birding at Toivoniemi tower (not much) Coffee and birding at Neljän Tuulen Tupa (Four Winds Hut) in Kaamanen (Pine Grosbeak) Drive to Kevo Research Station 110 kms from Inari, birding along the way Overnight at Kevo. NB: Research Station not open to public: see Sunday 19 June 08:00 Breakfast at Kevo and see Siberian Jay Trekking and observing nature at Kevo National Park 12:00 Lunch at Kevo 13:00 Drive to Nuorgam 70 kms, birding at Pulmanki Lake road km 4 for Hawk Owl, Long- tailed Skua and others, cross border to Norway Drive to Ekkerøy Peninsula at Varanger Fjord, about 115 kms from Nuorgam see Stay for next five nights at Havhesten Edvin Cabin (six beds) havhesten@ekkeroy.no, Web Monday 20 June Birding around Ekkerøy for Kittiwake, Temminck s Stint and others Tuesday 21 June Drive to Vardø 60 kms for boat ride in the Arctic Ocean to Hornøya Bird Island 10 minutes away. Departures: 0900, 1030, 1130 NOK 300 = 31 per person, or timing and price as contracted. tel , for Puffin, Guillemots, Fulmar, Redbreasted Pipit, Rock Pipit, etc.. Birding at on the rocky coast and along fjell roads in the Varanger Peninsula National Park (Persfjord, Sandfjord, Hamningberg) for Lapland Bunting, Bluethroat, Gannet, and others Wednesday 22 June Lunch at Hotel-Restaurant Ildtoppen, Leierpollen (near Austertana) Birding in the Kongsfjod Fjell for Snow Bunting, Red-necked Diver and others.. Thursday 23 June Birding at Vadsjø Bird Park for Arctic Redpoll and in Nesseby for Purple Sandpiper Birding in Domen for Snow Bunting and Dotterel (not found) Birding in Ekkerøy around midnight for Gyrfalcon Friday 24 June Midsummer Night Drive back to Kevo 12:00 Special Juhannus lunch at Kevo Research Station 18:00 Salad and fish meal in wigwam 18:30 Sauna for men; 20:30 sauna for women 20:00 Bonfire, salad and sausages, with Sami families of Nilla Lukkar Saturday 25 June 08:00 Breakfast at Kevo (self-catering) 22

23 Birding in Kevo river for Dipper (found) Drive to Inari 110 kms (two hours) 13:00 Lunch at Hotel Inarin Kultahovi, tel (Best typical food in Lapland!) 15:00 Visit Siida museum of Sami culture. See film on Aurora Borealis tel Drive back to Ivalo for overnight stay in a wooden cabin for eight (Villa Ivalo) of Ivalo River Camping & Resort see ivalorivercamping.com/majoitus.html near airport. 22:00 Dinner at Pubi.fi in Ivalo Sunday 26 June 09:00 Return car 10:45 Depart from Ivalo by Finnair AY 557 for Helsinki 13:15 Arrive at Helsinki Vantaa airport, proceed to Helsinki town; Lunch and birding at VKL reedbeds Monday 27 June 10:30 Depart for birding at Lappträsk, Karjaa for Red-necked Grebe, Bearded Reedling and Sedge Warbler 13:30 Birding at Suomenoja Pond, Espoo for Slavonian Grebe, Blyth s Reed Warbler, etc. 18:00 Departure by LindaLine hydrofoil for Tallinn from Magazine Terminal END Abandoned hut on the road to Hamningberg 23