Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Full Kit

Transcription

1 Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Full Kit Instructions

2 General Instructions 2 Checking the Parts Unpack the kit and carefully verify that all parts have been supplied and none have been damaged during shipping. To help you with this, an Illustrated Bill of Materials (Overview of the Parts) is available as a PDF document on the Prusa i3 section on. if you find any missing or damaged parts please contact us immediately by support@reprapuniverse.com Before you start assembling Take your time and carefully read the instructions to gain an idea of what is involved and how much time it will take, before starting assembling. If you are new to 3D Printing it will require a lot of reading on the Reprap.org Wiki first to get yourself familiar with the concepts and terminology. The Reprap.org Wiki is the main source of information within the Reprap Community. Work on a firm table or work bench in a clean dry well- lit area. Observe tool safety and take anti- static precautions. Level of Skill Building up the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer requires more than average technical skills. For connecting the electronics keep strictly to the wiring schematics provided on page 11 of this manual. Make sure you have the necessary technical skills to carry out the work, or enlist the help of someone who does! CD The CD that comes with the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Full Kit contains pre- configured Marlin Firmware (for Prusa i3), Slic3r profile and all.stl files of the Printed Parts. It is recommended printing a set of spare parts once you have the 3D Printer in operation. Technical Support If you are having a technical question or run into any problem, please contact: support@reprapuniverse.com. We will always do our best to resolve any problems encountered. We currently offer support in the following languages: English, German and Dutch. For general questions or issues please make sure to visit the reprap.org wiki first. << 2 >>

3 Warnings 3 The Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer has motorized and moving parts and a heated build platform. When the 3D printer is in operation always be aware of possible hazards. Never leave your Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer unwatched when in operation. A safe operation of the 3D printer is your own responsibility! Electric Shock Hazard Insert and secure the power cord firmly for proper usage and to avoid potential electricity and fire dangers. Do not attempt to touch or change anything inside before power down the printer. Always power down the printer and unplug the AC power cord if you need to work/check on the electric system. Burn Hazard Never touch the extruder, hotend, nozzle when the 3D printer is in operation, heating up or even cooling down. It can take more than 15 minutes for the hotend to cool down. Also, be very careful touching recently extruded plastic. Burn hazard. Do not touch the heated bed surface during or after operation. Heated surfaces can cause severe burns. Fire Hazard Do not use flammable chemicals or alcohol wipes to clean the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer. Never place any flammable chemicals or liquids on or near the printer when powered on or in operation. Liquid acetone and vapors are extremely flammable. Never leave your 3D printer unwatched when in operation. Pinch Hazard When the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer is in operation, take care to never put body parts (e.g. fingers) into the moving parts, including the belts, pulleys or gears. Make sure to tie back long hair or clothing that can get caught in the moving parts of the printer. Static Charge Make sure to ground yourself before touching the electronics unit. Electrostatic charges can damage electronic components. Ground yourself by touching a grounded source before you work on the electronics. You should be aware of the risk of electrostatic damage to the electronic components of this kit, specifically the RAMPS 1.4 board, Arduino Mega 2560 R3 and RAMPS 2004 LCD Display controller. These components are fully tested with the other electrical items before packing the kit, and wrapped in protective anti- static packaging. Damage by electrostatic discharges during unpacking, assembly and normal use is not covered under our warranty. Environment Do not place the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer on an unbalanced or unstable surface. The 3D printer may fall or tumble causing harm and/or injury. Do not place any objects on top of the 3d printer. Liquids and objects that fall into the printer can lead to printer damage or safety risks. << 3 >>

4 Warnings 4 Age Warning Do not let children (under the age of 18) operate the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D printer without adult supervision. Electric shock hazard. Moving parts can cause serious injuries. Liability / Damage Please note that assembly, operating and / or connection errors are beyond our control. In no event Achatz Industries will be liable for any damages arising whatsoever. For all personal injury and property damage arising from improper use, not the manufacturer, but the operator is responsible. << 4 >>

5 5 Documentation / Instructions Building the Frame Please find the build manual (PDF) for building the frame of the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition on: Further steps After assembling the Frame of the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer, the further steps are generic steps equal for all types of Reprap 3D Printers. We strongly recommend taking your time and carefully read through the RepRap.org wiki as it is the main source of information within the RepRap Community. Please find below additional instructions on these steps. Z- Axis Aluminium Motor Couplers (Upgrade) We recommend changing the Z Coupler Printed Parts with the upgraded Aluminium Z- Axis Motor Couplers provided in the Supply Bag. These 5x5mm Couplers are made of machined aluminum and have a spiral cut that makes them slightly flexible. This flexibility let the Coupler fit to the shaft of the NEMA 17 Motor and the M5 Rod of your Printer, even if they are not perfectly aligned. Using the Aluminium Z- Axis Motor Couplers will greatly reduces binding effects & backlash. << 5 >> Haefland 8A Tel P A B runssum The Netherlands Copyright 2015 Achatz Industries.

6 Documentation / Instructions 6 NEMA 17 Stepper Motor Type: 42BYGHW811 The Prusa i3 Achatz Edition uses five NEMA 17 Stepper Motors. Two of these motors, the Z- Axis motors, are connected to the same stepper driver of the electronics (See Wiring Schematics on page 11 of this Instructions Guide). Use the provided Reprap Wire Set with connectors to extend the wires of the NEMA 17 Stepper Motors (soldering required!). To Mount the Stepper Motors to the Printed Parts use the bolts provided in the motors section of the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Extra Bag. The NEMA 17 Motors should be mounted to the following parts (You might need to remove / drill through some of the plastic parts (e.g. Extruder Block) to mount the NEMA 17 Stepper Motors: - Z Axis Bottom Left - Z Axis Bottom Right - Y Motor - X End Motor - Extruder Block V5 << 6 >>

7 Documentation / Instructions 7 T2.5 Pulleys & Timing Belt Y- Carriage Mount a T2.5 Pulley to the shaft of the NEMA 17 Stepper Motor connected to the Y Motor Printed Part. Cut 1 m of T2.5 Timing Belt and mount the belt to make a straight line fit with the Y Belt Holder printed part on the bottom of the Y- Carriage Plate and the Y Idler printed part. The belt should have a firm fit. The Y idler can be used for adjusting the pressure on the Belt. << 7 >>

8 Documentation / Instructions 8 Z- Axis Mount a T2.5 Pulley to the shaft of the NEMA17 Stepper Motor connected to the X End Motor Part. Take the other 1 m of T2.5 Timing Belt and mount it to X- Carriage printed part and X End Idler printed part. Make again sure you have a good firm pressure on the belt General Remark If you have some trouble getting the belt fit into the opening of the X Carriage and Y Belt holder printed parts use a plier to widen the space. Be extremely careful no to break the parts! << 8 >>

9 Documentation / Instructions 9 Power Supply Connect the green wire (Supply- ON signal) with (ONE!!!!) black wire of the Power Supply Unit. You can solder the connection or use ferrules. If you use the ferrules (not provided with the Kit), make sure to properly crimp the ferrules. You can use a needle- nose plier for crimping. Cover the connection with the supplied heat shrink tubing and heat it up to make it shrink. The Power Supply Unit (PSU) should be placed on the table next tot the 3D Printer. It is, however, possible to mount the PSU to the Side Panel of the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer. This will give a neat look but it forces you to open- up the Power Supply to apply the screws. After applying the screws use the M3 Spacers to mount the PSU to the Side Panel of the 3D Printer. Keep in mind: opening- up the PSU will void the warranty! << 9 >>

10 Documentation / Instructions 10 E3D V6 All Metal Hotend The Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer Full Kit is equipped with the industry leading E3D V6 All Metal HotEnd (Direct Driven 12V 1.75 mm). The E3D V6 is a high quality engineered HotEnd which lets you print most of the filament currently available in amazing print quality. Nozzles can easily be switched. In contrast to many Prusa i3 Kits, the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Full Kit is equipped with the genuine, official, E3D V6 HotEnd (Made in UK) and not a cheap China clone. For assembly instructions, please follow E3D s instructions to the letter: online.com/wiki/e3d- v6_documentation online.com/wiki/e3d- v6_assembly online.com/wiki/e3d- v6_troubleshooting online.com/index.php The E3D V6 All Metal HotEnd has to be mounted to the Greg s Wade v5 Extruder Block using the Aluminium Groove Mount Plate. Important: Make sure the HotEnd makes a tight fit to the Extruder Block. Cancel out any wobbling. You might need to place some M8 Washers into the hole in the Extruder Block to achieve a tight fit. Further reading on the Greg s Wade v5 Extruder for Prusa i3: << 10 >>

11 Documentation / Instructions 11 Electronics Wiring Schematics Image Source: Reprap.org << 11 >>

12 Documentation / Instructions 12 RAMPS 1.4 The Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer is powered by the RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer Controller. The RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer Controller is a complete electronics solution for driving your 3D Printer. The RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer Controller Board interfaces with an Arduino compatible Mega 2560 board and has an extra slot for a 5th stepper motor driver which gives you the option of upgrading your machine with an extra extruder in the future. Screw terminals for the POWER connection (RAMPS board): There are four 12 V screw terminals located at the RAMPS 1.4 board. Two for +12 V and two for GND. Please always use two wires from the power supply for each terminal. Yellow wire = + 12 V, black wire = GND (four yellow and four black power supply wires). Use another yellow/black wire pair for the Hotend fan. Arduino Mega 2560 R3 Compatible Board The Arduino Mega 2560 is a microcontroller which interfaces with the RAMPS 1.4 3D Printer Controller board. After installing the software on your PC/Mac (visit the Getting started with Arduino Guide below) you can connect to the Arduino Mega 2560 and flash the pre- configured Prusa i3 Marlin Firmware from the CD. Getting started with Arduino Guide: << 12 >>

13 13 Documentation / Instructions A4988 Stepper Motor Driver Install the A4988 Stepper Motor Drivers onto the RAMPS 1.4 board. Pay careful attention to the direction of the stepper motor drivers as wrong installation will destroy your electronics (See image below)! Apply the heat sinks to the stepper motor drivers. Make sure you set the reference voltage (VRef) of the stepper motor drivers to V. Use a Multimeter for checking the VRef and the turnpot for adjusting. + probe on the turnpot and - on a ground pin. Image Source: Reprap.org << 1 3 >> Haefland 8A Tel P A B runssum The Netherlands Copyright 2015 Achatz Industries.

14 Documentation / Instructions 14 Mechanical Endstop Switches (SS- 5GL) See the images below for the correct mounting positions of the Endstop Switches on the Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer. << 14 >>

15 Documentation / Instructions 15 Use the two outside pins of the SS- 5GL Mechanical Endstop Switch for connecting the 2- wire cable. It is recommended to simply glue the Y- Axis Endstop Switch to the back left corner piece. HeatBed MK2B Dual Power 12V/24V The MK2B heatbed prevents warping of your prints by improving the attachment of the filament to the build plate. Connect the Thermistor to the center of MK2B heatbed (backside) and fix it with Kapton tape. Also solder the heater wire, resistor and LED to its correct position on the heatbed. << 15 >>

16 Documentation / Instructions 16 Fireproof Glass Plate This Fireproof Glass Plate can be placed on the heated bed for printing ABS. As a result all parts will be flat and have a smooth surface You can mount the Fireproof Glass Plate to the Heatbed by using the 19 mm Bulldog Clips. << 16 >>

17 Firmware / Software 17 Marlin Firmware Marlin is a powerful Open- Source Arduino Firmware written to control 3D Printers. Marlin Firmware allows 3D printing with a PC connected (via USB) or autonomous printing with a Display Controller. The CD that comes with your Prusa i3 Achatz Edition Full Kit has a pre- configured Prusa i3 Marlin Firmware Version which you can flash to your Arduino Mega 2560 board. The pre- configured file is also available for download on Host Software You can run your Prusa i3 Achatz Edition 3D Printer either by a direct connection to the USB port of your PC or autonomously (no pc required) with a RAMPS 1.4 Display Controller. While operating the 3D Printer from your PC/ Laptop you will need to install host software. We recommend using either Repetier Host or Printrun. Repetier Host: Host host/ Host/wiki Pronterface / Printrun: CAD Software There is a wide variety of CAD software available for creating 3D printable objects, ranging from freeware to advanced costly software. You will need to save the object into an.stl file format (often a plugin allows saving as.stl). << 17 >>

18 Firmware / Software 18 Slicing Software In order to turn a 3D part into a machine friendly format, CAM software needs an.stl file. The machine friendly format that is used for printing is called G- code. Slicing software creates G- code. There is a pre- configured Slic3r profile available on the CD. code << 18 >>

19 Calibration 19 Calibration of your Reprap 3D Printer is an important step. Please visit the link below for a detailed overview of how to correctly calibrate your Reprap 3D Printer. << 19 >>

20 Print Recommendations 20 It is extremely important that the first layer of your print job sticks very well to the print surface. Please find below recommendations for Printing PLA and ABS. The most printed thermoplastics Printing ABS the Heatbed should be turned on to C. The Heatbed needs to be turned on for preventing warping of the object. ABS Out of experience best results are achieved adding small layers of PET Tape (TESA) to the glass plate. Sand the applied PET Tape with sanding paper. Mount the Fireproof Glass Plate to the Heatbed using the Bulldog Clips Heat up the Heatbed Apply a mixture of ABS juice to the PET Tape when the Heatbed is 90% heated. Start 3D Printing printing- tips- and- tricks- how- to- make- abs- juice- to- help- your- 3d- prints- better- stick/index.html PLA Printing PLA normally requires no Heatbed (But for better adhesion of the object it is recommended to set the Heatbed temperature between C. Add layers of Blue Painter Tape to the Glass Plate and start 3D printing. << 20 >>

21 Upgrades (Optional) 21 Display Upgrade The Display Controller allows autonomous printing from an SD Card (NO PC connection required). See page 12 of this manual for the connection port on the RAMPS 1.4 board. Prusa i3 Fan Mount Upgrade The Prusa i3 Fan Upgrade can be mounted tot he back of the X Carriage printed part and connected to the RAMPS 1.4 board. The fan especially helps while printing bridges with PLA. << 21 >>

22 Tips, Tricks & Troubleshooting 22 Printing small objects If you want to print a very small object make sure to print multiple objects at the same time. This is important as the filament needs time to cool down. If you are printing only a small object the 3D printer adds a new layer instantly and the filament has no time to cool down. This will result in bad quality objects. The simple solution add more small objects to the build plate. E3D V6 All Metal Hotend Generally speaking, an All Metal HotEnd needs to print at the higher range of recommended filament printing temperatures. This might vary from supplier to supplier. Troubleshooting online.com/wiki/e3d- v6_troubleshooting Additional Reading << 22 >>