Mingei International Museum Zandra Rhodes A Lifelong Love Affair with Textiles Oct 3, 2010 Apr 3, 2011

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1 Chinese Pagoda Garment, 1979 Blouse in silk organza with pagoda sleeves in jade green, with Chinese Squares fabric in Chinese lacquer red, white and pink. Style 79/124 Skirt in silk organza with deep stitched and boned jade green satin waistband with Magic Heads fabric. Style 79/141 Zandra Rhodes Collection, donated by Valerie Cooper, L A-D Card Pattern for Chinese Squares, 1979 A length of printed fabric is placed on top of this card and matched to the print. The separate pieces of the garment, such as sleeves and front bodice are then cut along the lines as marked on the card. A length of uncut Chinese Squares fabric hangs behind you. Zandra Rhodes Collection Kodatrace separations for Chinese Squares, 1979 Kodatrace separations are used to transfer a design onto a silkscreen. The process begins by coating the screen in a light sensitive liquid. The kodatrace is placed on top of the screen and exposed to light. The areas not exposed (represented by dark lines on the kodatrace) wash away, leaving a clear mesh through which the dye can pass. There is one kodatrace and one screen per color. The kodatrace on top is used to print the color red, the middle white and the bottom pink. Zandra Rhodes Collection 1

2 Chevron Shawl Kaftan, 1970 Printed on shocking pink chiffon, this Chevron Shawl pattern is printed in white and orange. When on the body, the tasseled feather fringe hangs downwards and moves freely. The points are trimmed with white turkey feathers and all edges are hand-rolled. Style 70/4 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L AB Spiral Shell Quilted Jacket, 1971 Created with cream, pink and black Spiral Shell satin fabric, this jacket drapes in curves as the underarm seams follow the lines dictated by the print. The base of the jacket is gathered into the contained line of the edge quilting. Style 71/28 Zandra Rhodes Collection, donated by Dasha Shenkman in honor of her mother Belle Shenkman, L Coat Dress, 1971 Combining Frilly and Button Flower prints in quilted satin, the skirt is arranged in three layers of Frilly fabric, two printed on red satin and the middle on yellow satin. The skirt is made from thirteen complete circles of fabric. The first consists of one circle, the second of three circles and the third of nine circles. The sleeves are printed with Button Flower and the plain black satin bodice has an appliquéd Button Flower motif. Style 71/34 2 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

3 Dinosaur Jacket, 1971 The Button Flower print of this jacket in yellow wool felt is embellished with appliquéd motifs at the neck and wide zigzag outside seams. Style 71/23 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Coat from First Solo Collection, 1969 This circular coat combines a one-color Diamonds and Roses print in red with a two-color Knitted Circle print in black and red on yellow wool felt. The skirt consists of one large circle and the stitched collar is embellished with cording and wooden beads. Style Z23 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Indian Feather Border Kaftan, 1970 Printed on red silk chiffon, lengths of the Indian Feather Border print trimmed with velvet ribbons hang horizontally from the ruched yoke-like sleeves. Style 70/10 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B 3

4 Frilly Flower Garment, 1971 Jacket and skirt in Frilly Flower printed in red on blue rayon crepe, edged in contrasting yellow satin binding. The skirt has flat pleating, a sunray pleated peplum and appliquéd Button Flower motifs. Style 71/24 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress from First Solo Collection, 1969 This quilted yellow satin dress combines the Knitted Circle print for the skirt and the Wiggle Square print for the bodice and sleeves. Style Z2 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

5 Indian Feather Sunspray Dress, 1970 Black silk chiffon dress with Indian Feather Sunspray print in turquoise, ginger and cobalt blue. The center seams are on the outside and the scallops of the print have been cut out to form a cascade. The sleeves cut around the large feather sunsprays and all the edges are hand-rolled. Style 70/33 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Indian Feather Sunspray Dress, 1970 Yellow silk chiffon dress printed with Indian Feather Sunspray. At the bottom, a cutout sunspray and feathers dangle like tiny fronds. A giant yellow ostrich feather hangs from an ethnic-inspired velvet bodice. Style 70/35 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Chevron Shawl Waistcoat, 1970 A waistcoat in cream silk with a quilted silk yoke, the body is created from two repeats of the Chevron Shawl print. The V-shape of the body is formed by the edge of the print and brown cock feathers emphasize the tasseled fringe. Worn with printed tights. Style 70/9 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

6 Dress, 1973 This dress combines the Spiral Shell and Reverse Lily prints. Cut out along the curve of Reverse Lily for the yolk seam and around the inside curve of Spiral Shell, the dress falls in narrow fishtails at the sides. The squiggly lines of Reverse Lily and a row of tiny pearls emphasize the bust detailing. Style 73/7 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1971 This dress of cream silk combines Sparkle and Indian Feather Border prints. The silk is slashed, leaving raw cut edges and the hem is bound with silk rouleaux. Style 71/2 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1971 White Sparkle print on black silk with slashes and zigzag cut external side and shoulder seams. The bodice is handsmocked at the center front and back. Style 71/3 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

7 Magic Head Jacket, 1978 Ultra suede jacket with asymmetric embroidered seams on the outside, appliquéd with Magic Head motif and beaded with Swarovski crystals. Style 78/65 Kindly lent by Robyn Beeche, L Dinosaur Coat, 1971 This coat in heavy natural colored wool felt is lined with Button Flower printed on satin, with appliquéd Button Flower motifs at one shoulder and wide zigzag outside seams. Style 71/19 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1978 Bubble dress in blush chiffon printed with a punk border in pink and cobalt with handrolled edges, simulated tears and pearl edging at hemline. Style 78/68 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B 7

8 Punk Wedding Dress, 1977 From the influential Conceptual Chic Collection, this dress combines a long satin sash tied as a halter with an asymmetrical jersey panel attached with beaded safety pins and chains. Swarovski crystals are scattered throughout and black stitched edges provide contrast. An under dress with a high side split and long train is decorated with holes, beaded safety pins and chains. Style 77/15 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B Punk Dress, Dress in black jersey with decorative holes at shoulders and neck, with chains, beaded safety pins and contrast lettuce edges. Style 78/31 Long red satin sash with pink asymmetric jersey strip attached with beaded safety pins, decorated with chains and Swarovski rhinestones. Style 77/15 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B 8

9 Punk Outfit, 1977 This black jersey top and skirt are made from four circles: one for the yoke, one for the body and two for the sleeves. Decorated with chains, beaded safety pins and rhinestones, with asymmetric holes and contrast edges. The straight skirt is slashed with holes and has an uneven hem. Style 77/18 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B Kaftan with Crinkle Slip, 1998 This dress of gold and burnt orange ombré silk chiffon is printed with gold stars and slashed to give the appearance of tears. Style 98/4 Kindly lent by Jeanne Jones, L A-B One Shoulder Punk Dress, 1978 Dress with black satin bodice and one breast revealed. The jersey skirt is attached to the bodice with safety pins. Style 78/106 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

10 Dress, 1973 Dress in turquoise chiffon with Reverse Lily print edged with hand-rolled frills on sleeves and bodice. Skirt is Field of Lilies with a contrasting rose pink satin sash. Version of Style 73/44 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1973 Dress in yellow chiffon bodice printed in Reverse Lily with emerald green silk chiffon skirt printed in Field of Lilies and golden yellow satin sash. Style 73/44 Zandra Rhodes Collection, donated by Sarah Holcroft on behalf of her mother Lady Rothermere, L Dress, 1974 Dress in van Dyck brown silk chiffon printed with Lace Mountain. Pleated chiffon collar, batwing sleeves and brown satin sash. Style 74/50V Kindly loaned by Michala Lawrence, L A-B 10

11 Dress, 1974 Dress in Lace Mountain print on off-white silk chiffon with V-neck and pleated skirt, frilled above the waist by edging upper skirt panel with pleated satin ribbons and silk flowers. Style 74/47 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1978 Dress in white chiffon with gathered waist, bodice in Mexican Fan print and skirt in Mexican Sombrero print. Fluting above waist is accented with pleated ribbon. This design was especially developed for Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth s Silver Jubilee. Style 78/3 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress, 1973 This color of this dress was created especially for Lauren Bacall. Bodice with butterfly wings is dusty rose chiffon printed with Reverse Lily, skirt features the Field of Lilies print and sash is a dusty rose satin. Style 73/44 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-C 11

12 Crinoline Dress, 1973 Bodice and skirt in Reverse Lily print on ivory silk chiffon. Silk tulle frills on the skirt and sleeves follow the shape of the print. Style 73/19 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Dress from Manhattan Collection, 1985 Hand-beaded dress in shocking pink silk georgette with dropped waist, deep cowl back and uneven hem and sleeve edges. Beaded in sequins and bugle beads with a Manhattan landscape design featuring the Empire State and Chrysler buildings. Style 85/96 Zandra Rhodes Collection, donated by Martha Gafford, L Garment from Indian Sari Collection, 1986 Navy georgette dress hand-beaded with flowing bows and beaded holes can be tied and worn as a sari or in more provocative ways. Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

13 Garment from Mexican Collection, 1976 Circular top with Mexican Sombrero print on orange silk chiffon with handrolled edges and pearl beading. Skirt is made of eight half circles from the Mexican Sombrero print stitched together. Style 76/26 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B Garment from African Collection, 1981 Kaftan jacket in Zebra Skin print on earth colored silk chiffon cut to the shape of the print. The edges are hand-rolled and trimmed with pearls and feathers. Style 81/79 Brown jersey dress with twisted shoulder straps decorated with wooden beads and pearls. Style 81/87 Zandra Rhodes Collection, donated by Joan Agajanian Quinn, L A-B 13

14 Garment from Spanish Impressions Collection, 1986 Dress in black silk chiffon printed in white with Peacock Feather Frills print. The curtain ruched skirt is emblazoned with Swarovski rhinestone trim and beaded fringe at the hem. Pointed satin stitched neckline. Style 86/10 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Garment from Elizabethan Collection, 1981 This elaborate ensemble in gold pleated lamé was inspired by the royal wedding of Diana, Princess of Wales, and Prince Charles. The skirt expands at the sides by a boned pannier worn beneath the skirt and is accentuated by circular pleated swirls on either side. A black satin laced corset and gold pleated sleeves and neckline complete the outfit. Style 81/130 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-D 14

15 Garment from the India Revisited Collection, 1985 A long tunic with matching narrow trousers in deep emerald green silk chiffon printed with Maharaja s Peacock Feathers. The tunic is encrusted with Swarovski crystals in a paisley pattern. Rhinestone strips at edges of collar and trousers. Style 85/102 Kindly loaned by Margery Rubin, L A-C The Cowboy Collection, 1975 Top and chaps in bright turquoise ultra suede, edged with painted strips. Top, Style U101; Chaps, Style U110 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B 15

16 Egyptian Mummy Dress from Secrets of the Nile Collection, 1987 This hand-beaded evening dress in black silk georgette with a high neck and exposed shoulders suggests an Egyptian mummy wrapping. The beading and stitching are accented with Swarovski crystals and dyed pearls. Style 87/124 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L Garment from Secrets of the Nile Collection, 1987 Tunic and trousers in blue silk georgette hand-beaded in lapis blue beads, crystals and pearls. The beading is an interpretation of the historic Egyptian winged design, seen in hieroglyphics and tomb walls. Style 87/128 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L A-B Banana Leaf Dress, 1976 Dress in Mexican Banana Leaf on white silk chiffon over white jersey. Cut to the shape of the print with separate hand-rolled leaves and a green pleated satin bodice with contrast satin stitch lettuce edging and rouleaux. Style 76/21 Zandra Rhodes Collection, L

17 Textile Syria, 20th century Woven wool Mingei International Museum, Gift of Lydia Yancey, Asyut Shawl (left) Egypt, 20th century Woven cotton tulle and silver Mingei International Museum, Gift of Bradley Slayton, Asyut Wedding Shawl (middle) Palestine, 20th century Woven silk with silver Mingei International Museum, Gift of Dr. Martin and Mrs. Agatha Freedman, Asyut Shawl (right) Egypt, 20th century Woven cotton tulle and silver Mingei International Museum, Gift of Mrs. Turner Blair Shelton,

18 Hundred Bird Miao Festival Costume with Flying Skirt China, 20th century Silk felt with cotton appliqué, feathers, Job s-tears seed and gauze lining Mingei International Museum, Gift of Mary Beth Jernigan, Kimono Japan, 20th century Woven silk Mingei International Museum, Gift of Rumi Tamura Dover in memory of her mother Fumi Tobari, A Kuba Ceremonial Skirt Democratic Republic of the Congo, c. 1980s Woven raffia with appliqué Museum Purchase,

19 Woman s Wedding Tunic Pakistan, 20th century Embroidered silk and cotton with silk floss thread, sequins and mirrors Mingei International Museum, Gift of Stephen Huyler, Embroidered Quilt India, 20th century Appliquéd cotton Mingei International Museum, Gift of the Family of Eileen Miller, Friends of Mingei International for 30 years, Sari India, 20th century Woven silk Mingei International Museum, Gift of Dr. Louise H. Padelford, A 19

20 Three Men s Hats Mexico, 20th century Straw, felt, yarn, beads Top to bottom: Mingei International Museum, Gifts of Anita Brandow, E, Hope and Roy Turney, and Anita Brandow, Huipils Mexico, 20th century Woven cotton Mingei International Museum, Gifts of Leanne Hinton in honor of Sam and Leslie Hinton, , 29 20

21 Baby s Hats China, 20th Century Embroidered and appliquéd silk Mingei International Museum, Gifts of Drs. James and Judith Kemp, , 124, 135, 110, 129, 115 Pages from Sketchbooks Zandra s personal sketches displayed throughout this exhibition reflect her dynamic and colorful vision. After visiting Mingei in 2003, Zandra drew these Chinese baby s hats, which were on view at the time. Zandra Rhodes Collection 21

22 Pages from Sketchbooks As bright and dazzling as reality, Zandra s colorful world radiates through the pages of her sketchbook. Zandra Rhodes Collection Pages from Sketchbooks Zandra draws inspiration from the world around her, such as the architecture from a trip to New York City. Zandra Rhodes Collection Pages from Sketchbooks Traveling the world, Zandra documents the festivals, buildings and costumes of her voyages. Zandra Rhodes Collection 22