machine embroidery intelligent threads.

Transcription

1 machine embroidery intelligent threads.

2 amann group. embroidery profile. For more than 1 years, AMANN has been one of the global leaders in the field of high-quality sewing and embroidery threads. From universal sewing threads to special high-tech threads, AMANN offers a wide range of threads for all sewing and embroidery applications. Each product requires very specific thread properties which are often not featured by off-the-shelf products. As a global player and technological leader, AMANN counts on intelligent products, individual solutions and innovative concepts. AMANN s sewing and embroidery threads intelligent. individual. innovative. The combination of carefully selected high quality raw yarns and processing skills that have been acquired in more than 1 years of sewing and embroidery thread production, guarantee the outstanding performance profile of AMANN s products. Ideally balanced thread twist and elongation level, highest possible thread strength level, highly consistent thread finish in combination with a perfectly adjusted precision winding process guarantee our customers best processing and embroidery performance resulting in higher production efficiency and reduced scrap rates. AMANN embroidery threads: Best performance for our customers any time at any place. AMANN s Code of Sustainability. Maximum compliance through minimum environmental impact. Dealing with the environment and its resources responsibly and sustainably is an important aspect of AMANN Group s corporate activity. This is documented by Augsburg s production site s certification in accordance with DIN EN ISO 101 environmental management system as well as with DIN 1 energy management system. All AMANN sewing and embroidery threads including finishing consist only of non-hazardous materials and substances with no risk for people and environment. Compliance with EACh and certification under Oeko-Tex Standard 100 guarantee that AMANN s products are not harmful. eliability. Based on its vast expertise in the production of sewing and embroidery threads for easy use or heavy-duty, AMANN has been serving the global textile industry and its suppliers for many decades. With expert product solutions from fashion to technical embroidery applications, AMANN has become an integral part of this industry. International Sales Team. Professional assistance, quick response and comprehensive understanding of the nature of the embroidery business guarantee successful support regarding all business related aspects. Quality Management. Living up to our high quality standards at any time is a core point of AMANN s corporate philosophy. The entire group has been certified in accordance with DIN EN ISO Fulfillment of our process-oriented quality commitment for a safe production environment is proven by our Augsburg production site s certification under the strict ISO/TS standards. more than 1 years expertise. Technical Advisory. Providing excellent technical and processing support is one of the key strengths of AMANN. Technical sewing and embroidery advisory services include on-site training courses, technical workshops, customised tests, as well as product and processing recommendations. Colour Competence. Colour is the key when it comes to embroidery. AMANN s colour competence centre uses the latest state of the art technology. Experienced specialists work to meet the customers colour requests, fulfilling all standards of the embroidery industry. A huge globally available colour range helps to cover the most diverse requirements of all major thread consuming industries: from fashion to promotional textiles from automotive to technical embroidery applications. Logistics & Warehousing. Producing threads for the global sewing and embroidery industry, shipping and warehousing are part of our daily business. Just in time delivery, flexibility in meeting the changing customer requirements and efficient logistics management with a huge range of products this is what AMANN stands for. 3

3 products and applications. applications. Polyester continuous filament, trilobal Decoration and enhancement are key functions of embroidery, on clothing, shoes, in the home or in the car. They set trends, personalise items and are special eye catchers. Whether they are a simple monogram or a rich and colourful embroidered motif, brilliant, matt or with metallic shimmers, they are always an important creative design element and attract the observer s eye. The versatility and precision of embroidery technology is also being recognised more and more in the technical area, and is increasingly being used there. Embroidery demands a wide range of colours and qualities. This is a language that AMANN understands perfectly. Brilliant & fashionable. Matt. 5 universal machine embroidery thread for all brilliant and fashionable embroideries great in colour, great in function abrasion resistant, robust, perfect embroidery properties excellent colour fastness classic on work & corporate wear extremely durable also for jeans and automotive Filigree & monograms. ISACOD Nm x m KS snap m KS snap multicolour Nm x m KS snap ISACOD LIFECYCLE Art sabac asant Serafil fine sabac Metallic. Glow-in-the-dark, multicolour & neon. For garment dyeing. Polyester continuous filament ISAMET ISA TEXLIGHT ISACOD multicolour ISACOD Flame retardant. Technical & functional. Mercifil PremiumGD LIFECYCLE Cotton Bobbin threads. Serafil fine the ideal embroidery thread for all fine materials filigree, silk-like, adaptive for embroidering monograms and precise details (lettering down to mm) ideally suited to fix sequins 10/ 16 Nm m FS m FS 8 00/ 5 10 Nm m FS m FS 8 A-tech CS N-tech CS N-tech TechX Performance Threads ISA ISABOB sabac N-tech CS Co = FS/KS = XW = Depending on the type of raw material and especially with contrast seams the mentioned care instructions may differ. In these cases we recommend individual tests.

4 products and applications. sabac Polyester/polyester core spun Polyester/polyamide wrapped yarn perfectly suited for matt embroideries wide range of colours and thread sizes textile look good colour and wear resistance sabac 0 as coloured bobbin thread in colours metallic embroidery thread classic thread in uniform and emblem embroidery brilliant accent for elegant clothes available in gold, silver and many other metallic colours Nm x m XW. m Co ISAMET Gold/Silver 10 x m FS m FS 80 Nm ISAMET Fashion 10 x m FS 14 ISAMET Colour 10 x m FS 80 multicolour Nm Nm Nm Nm -0 ISAMET New 10 x m FS Polyester/cotton core spun Polyester continuous filament, texturised perfectly suited for matt embroideries textile look the classic embroidery thread on traditional costumes phosphorescent embroidery thread glows in the dark for special effects for example on children s nightwear or clothes worn in bars or clubs Nm ISA TEXLIGHT 3 Nm x m KS snap 1 5 Nm m Co Nm m Co 0 0 asant Co = FS/KS = XW = Depending on the type of raw material and especially with contrast seams the mentioned care instructions may differ. In these cases we recommend individual tests.

5 products and applications. Mercifil 9 Cotton spun, mercerised Meta-aramide spun threads for flame retardant and heat protective applications self-extinguishing and non-melting N-tech CS 80/ also as bobbin thread for flame retardant embroideries the sewing and embroidery thread for garment dyeing made from long-staple mercerised cotton optimal dyeing properties specific signal colour prevents confusion 4/ 0 Nm Nm Nm 65-0 Care instructions*: A-tech CS NEWSTA Yantai metaaramide, cut staple spun N-tech CS Nomex DuPont metaaramide, cut staple spun N-tech Nomex DuPont metaaramide, schappe spun A-tech CS / 5 Nm N-tech CS N-tech The range of LIFECYCLE THEADS covers sewing and embroidery threads made from recycled polyester or organic cotton. I-tech Polyamide continuous filament/ Bekitex polyester-stainless steel spun for technical embroideries discharging electrostatic energy due to the coarse ticket a different hook adjustment is required I-tech CS 0 5 Nm m FS 1 Polyester bobbin threads for embroidery Polyester continuous filament, recycled LIFECYCLE Art m KS 10 x m KS bobbin thread range for machine embroidery ISA combines excellent thread running properties, high strength and large bobbin volumes ISABOB provides outstanding unwinding properties, long running lengths and all benefits of prewound bobbin threads Cotton spun, GOTS certified LIFECYCLE Cotton Care instructions*: ISA ISABOB m Co m Co x 113 m Bobine * For undyed thread final care properties depend on the dyeing process Co = FS/KS = XW = Depending on the type of raw material and especially with contrast seams the mentioned care instructions may differ. In these cases we recommend individual tests.

6 basic embroidery know-how. the stitch types. 11 unning stitches run lengthways one behind the other just like a conventional seam. The stitches may become increasingly shorter or longer or their thickness emphasised by being overstitched several times. Satin stitches are zigzag stitches that lie closely together. Their width and thickness can be freely selected. Satin stitches are the most versatile of all embroidery stitches. Satin stitches can be made to stand out very clearly through solid underlay stitching. Fill stitches fill out areas. The area may shimmer more or less and have relief-like structures depending on the stitch interval and frequency. Selecting a favourable stitch length will also save many stitches in the pattern. the embroidery machine. translates the file produced by the digitizer together with thread, fabric and backing into finished embroidery is selected based on the required number of items and flexibility. A distinction is made: N umber of heads: one embroidery pattern per head can be completed at the same time. Machines generally have 1 to heads Number of needles per embroidery head: the needle number gives the maximum number of colours that may be threaded in a single pattern without a changeover. Needle numbers of between 1 and 18 needles are usual, with 1 needles being the average The working area and frame size define the largest possible works of embroidery has further properties that affect the possible applications: Embroidery speed: currently between 00 and 1800 stitches a minute the digitizer. is the main factor responsible for the quality of the embroidery creates the embroidery pattern from three types of stitches translates the artwork into embroidery has to know the embroidery materials and customer requirements exactly to set the right parameters creates the necessary underlay stitches beneath the embroidery to achieve contour definition and volume and minimise distortion is able to produce consistently attractive embroidery due to todays advanced digitizing software different shades of colour may be achieved simply through different stitch directions and stitch lengths Additional equipment such as tools for sequins, boring or cord embroidery essentially requires finely adjustable and accurate thread tension disks the thread tension should always be kept as low as possible ISACOD with its low and extremely consistent sliding friction values enables even finer adjustment of the thread tension ISACOD s consistent coefficients of sliding friction across all colours avoid having to readjust the thread tension when the colour is changed The thread balance is generally correct if 1/3 of the surface on the reverse of a satin stitch is taken up by the bobbin thread.

7 basic embroidery know-how. the backing. 13 the needle. has the job of enabling sharp-contoured embroidery free from deformation due to pulling gives the embroidery base the necessary dimensional stability in conjunction with the underlay stitching may be removed after the embroidery process by tearing, cutting away or dissolving for materials with a nap, the backing can be supported by a soluble film on the top of the embroidered item. The stitches are prevented from sinking into the nap by a water- or heat-soluble backing or a suitable film The following table is given as a guide for the application of different types of backing. The DB x K5 needle system has established itself worldwide in machine embroidery. Virtually all machines use this system with the exception of the Fortron The eye of the needle in the DB x K5 system is 1 needle sizes larger than usual. A size 0 needle therefore has the eye of a size 80 or 90 needle. The benefits are: a smaller diameter needle may be selected; it protects the material better protection for the embroidery thread as there is more room in the eye needle is easier to thread The needle size indicates the diameter of the part of the needle that penetrates the material, given in mm/100. A size 0 needle therefore has a diameter of 0, mm Material Backing Fine knitwear, very fine woven fabrics Cut away backing, in order to avoid material damages while tearing away the backing Woven fabric, stable knitwear Tear away backing Transparent materials, embroideries which are visible as well from the reverse side Water- or heat soluble backing for the purpose of complete removal Terry cloth, velvet, velours Tear or cut away backing + water-soluble film on the top needle sizes of between 55 and about 10 may be used on conventional embroidery machines. The needle point is selected according to the embroidery application. The small ball point may be used as a starting point eal cutting points (SD or DH needle points) are avoided during machine embroidery to prevent perforation of the material The following table gives a guide for selecting points and sizes. Exceptions are possible. Material Needle point Nm Size Knitwear & jersey Finely knitted fabric Fabrics for shirts/blouses 55 0 Denim Needle brand Groz-Beckert Organ Schmetz medium or small ball point FFG / G J/Q SES medium or small ball point FFG / G J/Q SES 10 / G /Q / G /Q Terry cloth / G /Q Mircro-fibre / G /Q Silk / G /Q Leather sharp ball point Synthetic leather sharp ball point Coated materials / G /Q Knitwear: Knitwear Woven fabric Leather goods The different embroidery thread tickets can be allocated to the following needle sizes. Exceptions are possible: Embroidery thread Article examples ticket ecommended needle size ecommended needle system Nm Size (except Fortron ) DB x 1(55), DB x K5 5 Serafil 00/ Serafil 10/, saba DB x K5 ISACOD, saba 10, asant DB x K5 sabac 80, asant DB x K5 0 saba DB x K5 C C C

8 embroidery tipps. Problem Thread breaks eason Suggested solution Needle thread tension too high eason Suggested solution eset needle thread tension, cn is considered as the highest standard value for general embroidery work Embroidery hoop too big Use smallest possible embroidery hoop Wrong or incompletely threaded Check thread path and correct if necessary Woven material not framed sufficiently Material and backing must be clamped tight like a drum Thread guiding elements have sharp edges or show burrs Polish thread paths Knitted fabrics were stretched for fixing in the frame For knitted fabrics frame only the backing and then fix the material by using a temporary adhesive avoiding distortion Hook shows burr (caused for example by hitting needle) Polish hook backing not tight enough Double thin backing or use heavier backing Stitch density too high/too many stitch layers on top of each other Change stitching program and digitize less densely Fabric puckers despite backing Bond backing and fabric with a temporary or permanent adhesive in order to reduce puckering Stitching speed too fast for large stitches For especially long stitches reduce machine speed Thread tension too high Check needle thread and bobbin thread tension Insufficient thread quality Use branded thread featuring a high tensile strength such as ISACOD Fabric is too dense Puckering due to displacement. Use smaller needle size and less stitches. too small, eyelet too small Use thicker needle, use DBxK5 system needle with a larger eye in order to keep the needle size as small as possible Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) Change stitching direction (either by different digitizing or by framing and embroidering the material offset by 90 ). everse stitching direction with underlay stitches if necessary Stitch length too long or too short Adjust minimum and maximum stitch length in digitizing program. Poor thread quality Use branded thread featuring high tensile strength such as ISACOD Stitch density and thread size do not match Select actually used thread size in digitizing program or adjust stitch density accordingly. Embroidery base material weaved or knitted very densely If possible digitize longer stitches or use a thicker needle Underlay stitches missing or do not fulfil their purpose Check underlay stitches in digitizing program. Contour underlay stitching is recommended for letters while box-type underlay stitching is recommended for area embroideries. Note: false underlay stitching is worthless. Needle defective (bent) eplace needle Stitches sink into the material (for example terry cloth, velour or velvet) Applying a water or heat soluble film to the top side prevents the stitches from sinking. Thread tension balance incorrect eset thread tension. In a row of satin stitches, the bobbin thread should cover 1/3 of the width of the stitch. Too much stretching of material in embroidery hoop Improve framing method Pull not considered in digitizing process Apply pull compensation in digitizing program Hoop has loosened Tighten frame screw further, wrap frame with textile tape for more stability Digitizing fault Check digitizing program on the computer (for example if the outline segment can be offset completely) Backing too stiff Use thinner backing or less layers of backing Stitch density too high/thread too thick Match stitch density and thread size Frame too even/too hard for material Wrap inner hoop with textile tape. Slight markings can be removed with steam. Delicate material (for example tuft fabrics) Work with temporary adhesives or Filmoplast so that the material itself needs not be framed in the hoops but only the backing. Unfavourable stitching direction (for example satin stitch backwards) Problem Fabric shows puckering around the embroidery Thread bulging in front of the needle Skip stitches Incorrect needle size Select needle size to match the material to be embroidered and the thread. If the needle eye is too big in relation to the thread size, skip stitches may occur. Needle not set correctly into the machine Check position of needle. The needle must be fully inserted to the needle bar and must be threaded vertically from front to back (twelve o clock position). Threading path incorrect Check if correctly threaded and if a thread loop may have been caught somewhere Unfavourable stitching direction on difficult base material First try and rotate pattern and base material by 90. If necessary, change stitching direction of fill and satin stitches in digitizing program. Hook setting incorrect Needle (point) broken Material damages Loops in the embroidery Wrong needle point used Contures not synchronized Adjust hook (or have adjusted) so that the tip of the hook can safely take up the needle thread loop. eplace needle Embroidery stiff Select needle point according to material Stitch density too high for material/too many stitches in the same place educe stitch density, work with shorter stitch lengths on inner radiuses, offset penetration points Thread tension too low Increase thread tension Stitch length too long or too short In digitizing program, set maximum stitch length correctly (usually no more than mm). Very short stitches require a high thread tension. Unfavourable stitching direction (for example diagonally backwards) Unproper appearance of the embroidery everse stitching direction, if necessary with additional underlay stitches Unfavourable frame marks

9 10385 EN intelligent threads. apparel home interior shoes & leather automotive Our management systems are certified according to embroidery techtex Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG Hauptstraße 1 D-4 Bönnigheim Phone msg@amann.com