The Illustrated Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows VERSION 7.1

Transcription

1 The Illustrated Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows VERSION 7.1 Complete Step by Step Manual for Repair, Replacement, and Remodeling with Vinyl Windows

2 Table of Contents Accurate Measurement... 3 Measuring for Full Frame Removal... 7 Frame-In Box Frame Installation... 8 Installing Box Frame Sliding Windows Frame-In versus Frame-Out Wood Frame-out Sequence Metal Frame-out Sequence Destructive Tear-out Application, Shimming, Fastening & Caulking Shims and Proper Shimming Proper Caulking Capping, Flashing and Vapor Barriers Outside-In Installation of Box Frame Windows Installing Casement & Awning Windows Installing Bay, Bow & Garden Windows Replacing Steel Windows Replacing Aluminum Windows Installing Windows in Masonry Openings Installing Basement Windows Combining Two or More Windows Structural Mulls Installing Vinyl Windows in New Construction Installing Curved and Angled Windows Frame-Out/Kerfed Trim Installation of Finned Windows F-Channel Installation Slow Expansion Foam Sealant Application Entry and Patio Door Installation Installing Replacement Doors Replacing a Window with a Door Finned Window in Wood Frame Stucco Applications Coastal CMU Installation with Buck Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, AWDI and the author are not liable and do not accept any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error. Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows Jervis & Associates - Do not reproduce without permission.

3 Introduction This book is about Replacement Windows and the techniques and application specific conditions you might meet. Replacement window, while primarily PVC (Vinyl Windows), there are other frame materials, such as fiberglass, that are popular, as well. Even wood framed windows can be replacement designed. Replacement design is more about the method of installation than a anything specific with regard to the glazing packages or the operation of the new window product. With modern manufacturing techniques and innovations in product design, today's residential Replacement Window is easy to measure, specify and install by professional contractors. The Replacement Window is very popular in American homes. This is due in no small way to the rise of a valueconscious consumer who is willing to invest in improving their lifestyle, improving their home, and saving energy. The majority of all home construction is based on similar dimensions of the building materials which has created wall thickness, and frame depths of consistent size and configuration. Standardization is the key. The fact that all studding is 2" x 4'', and common construction lumber is 2" x 6", 2" x 8",2" x 10", etc. and sheathing and wallboard panels are 4" x 8" is a result of standardization that created efficiencies and lower construction cost. This standardization is maintained through local and national building codes. Because of standardization, most residential Replacement Windows have a frame depth of 3-1/4" when requiring the use of inside stops. Frame depths up to 4-1/8" for heavy duty windows and some casement and awning windows are possible if flush trim is used. The instructions contained in this book are the result of industry best practices that will accomplish professional and consumer satisfying results. AWDI and the Window Fitters Guild use these instructions in their national Installer Certification program, and many of the instructions and techniques follow the published and accepted standards of other industry associations, and code bodies as well. Interfacing the Weather Barrier. All windows, when originally installed, have been to one degree or another interfaced with the weather resistant barrier of the existing building s wall. There are two basic approaches to replacement: Frame Out (total removal of old window and the new window is installed to rough opening), and Frame In (where sash and glazing panels are removed and the new window is fitted to the old frame. These guidelines assume that when the replacement is finished, regardless of the approach used, the integrity of the original weather resistant barrier has been maintained. Read this book first. This manual goes into detail about the general standards and recommendations for proper installation. These will give you an overview of the considerations and situations you must be concerned with and how to handle them. The manual deals with specific situations in removal, replacement, and new construction applications. The information contained on these pages will give you the knowledge and procedures required to do a proper job under most circumstances. Finally, this book is not designed to be a substitute for instructions provided by the manufacturer of the window you choose. Each installation situation can be different, and these instructions best serve as a guide. No warranty can be made, nor is implied by these instructions. And it is important that all applicable local building codes be followed when removing windows, altering openings, and installing new window products. Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, AWDI, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error The drawings, illustrations and instructions are protected under various Copyrights by Jervis & Associates and John H Jervis, from and licensed through AWDI, and may not be reproduced without expressed written permission of the copyright holder. Published under license by AWDI, LLC. The Contractor s Guide to Installing Replacement Windows Jervis & Associates - Do not reproduce without permission

4 Accurate Measurement is the Key to Quality Installation. When you specify a vinyl replacement window, it is made to fit the particular opening and it is important to correctly measure the opening. There are three critical measurements involved: Width, Height and Square. Outer Sash Parting Stop Brick Mould Balances Inner Sash Balances Blind Stop Height The height of the window is taken from the sill (from the point against the stool) to the header (at the point against the inside stop) as shown. Measure at the left, middle, and right and use the smallest dimension Muntins Parting Stop Interior Stop Sill Side Jamb Stool Apron Rail BASIC WINDOW ANATOMY Casing Width 1 This is the measurement that is given first when ordering a window. Because the inside stops 2 and parting stops are removed, 3 the width must be measured from jamb to jamb as shown. Measure at the top, middle, and bottom and use the smallest dimension. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 3 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

5 Often the success or failure of window installation begins with the proper measurements and opening status information or lack of it. Most installers or measurers are trained and record accurately the width and height of the opening. These measurements should be done with regard to the type of window and construction of the wall. Whatever method is used and/or described, it should be consistent between installers or measurers and openings and wall construction. In this way, the specified window is consistent and regardless of who measures and specifies, any installer working for the company will have the proper window and expectations at the job site. No surprises. In addition to the width and height, there are 6 other states or conditions of the opening that need to be measured, observed, and recorded so that the natural (or otherwise) idiosyncrasies of the opening are non ahead of time and can be accommodated in the specification of the needed window or door, and so that the proper materials and tools for correction will be known and provided at the job. Square Because some openings have become out-of-square over the years, it is important that the squareness of the opening be accurately measured. Measure the diagonals (upper left to lower right, and upper right to lower left) as accurately as possible from a point inside the stool to a point against the inside stop at the header. Record the two dimensions. If they are roughly equal, the opening can be assumed to be square. If they are not, then it is possible that the opening is out-of-square enough to cause the new window to be forced into an out-of-square condition during installation. If the new window is forced out-of-square, the interlock, sill and header seals can leak air and possibly water. Also the cam locks will not operate correctly and the window will wear out prematurely. Determine Square by measuring the corner diagonals (upper left to lower right, and lower left to upper right). Record both dimensions. The difference between them is the square condition. If the diagonals are not equal use the following simple equation. If the difference between your measured diagonals is greater than the allowable value, it may be appropriate to order a window 1/8 to 1/4 smaller than indicated by your measured width. This will allow the new window to be installed square in the opening. Then adequate sealing of the perimeter of the new window will complete the air-tight installation. Formula: D 2 L - D 2 S = W D L = Longer Diagonal D S = Shorter Diagonal W = Width of Opening The difference between the sum of the squares of the measured diagonals cannot be greater than the opening width. Example 1: Opening 36" wide by 48" high. The Long Diagonal is 60-3/8" and the Short Diagonal is 60-1/8". Squaring the Long Diagonal ( x ) equals 3,645.14". Squaring the Short Diagonal ( x ) equals 3,615.02". Subtracting them finds a difference of 30.12". The difference is less than the width of 36" so the opening is square enough to accept a window designed to fit a 36" x 48" opening. Example 2: Opening 28" x 60". The Long Diagonal is 66-3/8" and the Short Diagonal is 66-1/8". Squaring the Long Diagonal equals 4,405.64". Squaring the Short Diagonal equals 4,372.50". Subtracting equals 33.14" which is greater than the opening width of 28". The opening is out-of-square enough to warrant consideration of a window 1/8" to 1/4" narrower than a window designed to fit an opening 28" x 60". Level When installing a vinyl window, it is important that the sill on which the window is resting be level. Out of level sills can cause havoc in the operation of large windows, casement windows, awning windows, sliders, and even double and single hung windows. The main reason for this problem is that out of level sills will distort the frame to an out-of-square situation. Imagine a sill that slopes and the sides of the window are made plumb. By definition, the window frame will become a parallelogram where the header and the sill will be parallel, and the sides will be parallel, but the sides will not be at right angles (90 ) to the sill or header. This will make it nearly impossible for the sash, which will be square at the corners, to nest properly, lock properly, and seal out window and moisture properly. As the sash is forced into the out of square frame, undue pressure will be placed on the corners, the hardware, and even the glass and its seal. D L W D S A 32" sill can be 1/8" out of level and still meet code, but most sills are worse than that! The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 4 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

6 So, while most installers plumb the jambs, and attempt to level the header, they are more often than not unsuccessful because the sill is out-of-level (even in new construction) and they don t compensate for this with shimming. Construction Standards accept out-of-level sills up to 1/240th of the span. Translated into small dimensions, this allows each 32 span to be out of level up to 1/8. An average 6 foot picture window or garden window be out-of level over 1/4 in a new home. In older homes, the situation can be worse due to settling and softer building codes. Construction debris, nail heads, knots and splits in the subsill can create irregularities in the level of the sill on which the new window rests. The first solution is to shim the bottom of the window unit to level, as long as shimming doesn t raise the sill to a point where water can leak under the sill to rot the subsill or leak into the house. Because a shimmed sill can cause part of the window bottom to be unsupported, it is possible that the sill will bend under the weight. And, in cases where there is a crown in the sill, shimming becomes complicated considering the size and weight of the master frame. The only stable and long-lasting solution is to establish level across the entire sill prior to installation. Use some kind of shimming, hardening filler, or a rigid sub-sill. LEVEL PLUMB T Plumb Plumb is measured with a Bulb Level placed on each jamb. Record how much one end needs to be moved away from the jamb to create a plumb condition on each side. Plumb is often defined as vertical level. The sides of the opening must be vertical so as not to distort or skew the window or door frame. Out of plumb can render locks inoperable at worst, and difficult to operate at best. As with level, construction often accepts out-of-plumb, so while measurements of width and height may be relatively equal in the 3 recommended locations, it doesn t mean the sill is level or the jambs plumb. Record the condition of the plumb of the jambs on the specification sheet. SQUARE PLANAR Cross Point Planar Planar is measured by temporarily anchoring a string diagonally from upper corner to opposite lower corner. The strings will touch in the center where they cross, or they will not. If they touch, reverse which string is on the outside. If they cease touching, the distance between the strings where they cross will be the planar condition measurement. This condition is significant because it will indicate that the upper corner of the window is not flat in plane to the opposite lower corner. This will render the new window contorted in installation. Careful Measuring and Checking is the difference between successful installation and problems. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 5 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

7 If it is a finned window, the fin will not rest flat on the frame of the opening without pushing the window out of shape. This can impede operation. Worse might be leaving the out-of-plane condition opening up one or more corners to leaks. If possible, you can use the Bulb Level on the face of the wall to determine if one side or both sides are out of plane and by how much. Record all these dimensions on the specification sheet. Crown This condition will appear in the sill where the center between the jambs is higher than at the edges of the opening. Placing a window or door on a crowned sill can cause the interlocks to not meet properly; the panels to not slide properly on a sliding window or door, or will impede the proper operation of a hinged door or window. Use a Bulb Level to determine crown, and record location of the crown, and measure how much the edge of the level needs to be raised on either side of the high point to create a level condition. Record these measurements to help in sizing and shimming needs. Bow The opposite of Crown, a Bow will be a low spot between the jambs. As with a crown, a depression can cause the sill of the window or door to deflect and impede proper operation and sealing/locking. As with Crown, record location and height differences on either side of the depression. Record these dimensions on the specification sheet. Trapezoid While most openings have equal widths and equal heights down and across the opening, occasional an opening can be wider at the top, or wider at the bottom. This condition might become evident when measuring the plumb and square, but a trapezoidal effect can require a change in the width and/or height of the specified window, and therefore needs to be recorded on its own on the specification sheet. The Specifier should consider the conditions of the opening to properly order the appropriate size of the new window. Then the installer should consider all 8 states or conditions to properly prepare to install the new window in a plumb, square and planar condition necessary for proper operation, locking, and sealing. CROWN IN SILL BOW IN SILL UNLEVEL SILL CROWN BOW TRAPEZOID The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 6 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

8 Measuring for Full Frame Removal Most instructions show measurements taken within the tracks from one side to the other, and from top to bottom. These measurements are sufficient for box frame or pocket replacement - i.e., Frame-In replacement. However, windows are installed initially against the rough framing (the rough opening), before the interior wall board and exterior siding is installed and trimmed out. Sash Weights If the old wood window has weights, there is a weight pocket behind the jambs. The outer surface of the sloped sill of old wood windows is considerably above the rough sill; and depending on the thickness of the window sill itself, it becomes difficult to estimate the real rough opening dimensions if the old window was totally removed. And, certainly you don t want to be removing the old window and then measuring in order to properly size the new window. EXTRA SPACE IN WEIGHT POCKET Perhaps worse is receiving the new windows on the job, removing the old windows and finding there is a mis-measure (really a mis-estimate) requiring fill-in or larger gaps that invite water and air infiltration. Experienced installers may be able to eyeball the real dimension, but the safest way is to get the real dimensions and supply them to the factory with the order. The drawings show the actual relationship between the rough opening and the interior surfaces of wood and finned window. Using a small drill bit, it is possible to make a small hole into which the drill bit can be inserted, and using your fingers, you can identify the additional space that will be exposed when the old window is totally removed. The following measurement sheets have extensive dimension call-outs. Too much information back at the factory is better than too little. Use your best judgement. USING A SMALL DRILL BIT, CREATE A HOLE IN THE FRAME OR THE WALL BOARD TO INSERT. USING YOUR FINGERS, AS SHOWN, PUSH THE DRILL BIT UNTIL IT RESTS ON THE ROUGH OPENING FRAMING. REMOVE THE DRILL BIT AND MEASURE FROM YOUR FINGERS TO THE DRILL BIT TIP AND ADD THAT TO THE MEASUREMENT BETWEEN THE INSIDE SURFACES OF THE OLD WINDOW FRAME. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 7 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

9 Frame-In Installation of Box-Frame Vinyl Replacement Windows If you have determined that the old wood window frame is adequately interfaced with the existing wall s water management system, Vinyl Replacement Windows are designed to fit neatly and effortlessly into the opening left by the removal of the existing sash in an old wood window. Sized perfectly, the 3-1/4" frame fits into space where the sash and parting stops were. Tools You Will Need Modern, quality, vinyl replacement windows need only simple hand tools for installation. PRYBAR TAPE PLIERS The head expander and sill angle which are supplied with most vinyl windows accommodate the variances that time and weather made in the old window frame. The new window is anchored to the old wood window frame - against the exterior or "blindstop", and the interior stops are re-installed to complete the installation. BRUSH RAZOR KNIFE CHISEL CAULK AND GUN In order to have a successful installation, it is important to accurately measure for the new vinyl replacement window and specify the appropriate size. Properly measured and ordered, the new window will fit perfectly, with minimum effort, and provide an installation that will give years and years of satisfactory performance. Before You Start Read these instructions carefully and identify all the pieces to be removed or added during the installation. Not only are the basics easy and simple, but all work can be done from inside the house. Some windows are shipped with bands around the middle of the window - or have some other arrangement to keep the unit in square. Do not remove the bands until the unit is in the opening and secured. SQUARE SCREWDRIVERS HAMMER DRILL RECIPROSAW LEVEL DRILL BIT Some other considerations When replacing an old window with a modern vinyl replacement window, you will no longer need storm windows or separate screens. If there are screens or storms mounted to the outside of the house, it might be better if they were removed. This will give you the opportunity to thoroughly clean the opening and seal or paint any problem areas. If you wish to re-mount the storm windows, they will not interfere with the new replacement window. The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 8 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

10 Remove the Old Window Parting Stop Brickmould Blindstop Parting Stop Top Sash Bottom Sash Casing Inside Stop Fig. 1 Stool 1. Remove the inside mouldings (stops) with a broad chisel and save them for later use, being careful not to break them. 2. Any cords and weights, or spring balances can then be removed so that the old bottom wood sash can be easily removed as shown. Remove the pulleys. If the screws can't be backed out because of corrosion, stick the flathead screwdriver into the pulley and pry it out. 3. Pry out the top parting stop. Pliers can easily remove most stops. 4. Pry out the side stops - left and right. For stops that are heavily painted or stuck, you can use the broad chisel to shear off the part of the stop that protrudes into the jamb. 5. Once the parting stops are out, the upper sash can be easily removed from the outer track. Fig. 2 Windows with Aluminum Tracks Fig. 6 Fig. 6A Fig. 7 Fig. 3 & 4 6. If the old window has pre-formed aluminum tracks, there will be no wood parting stops on the sides, but there will be one on top. Remove the top parting stop Then remove the staples holding the pre-formed track. There is also a small aluminum block on the top and bottom of the aluminum track. It too, must be removed. 7. Once the staples are removed, both the upper and lower sash-and the tracks can be removed as a single unit Fig. 5 The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 9 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

11 Prepare the Opening 1. Clean the opening of any debris. Cover any holes made by the weight pulleys, etc. Remove any old screen hook eyes or other protruding screws or fasteners. If there are holes left by the old weights and cords, fill the holes with batt insulation and cover with a thin metal plate or aluminum tape. NOTE: It is recommended that you flash the left-in-place frame to be sure that any water in the wall is able to escape the opening without damaging the old frame. Use liquid-applied flashing on the sill and adhesive backed flashing on the jambs and header making sure you overlap for drainage. Expander Utility Knife 2. After you flash the opening, install the supplied Starter Strip - Sill Angle on the outer sill, 1/8" behind the blind stop. Caulk the inside edge of the stool and outside along sill angle. 3. Install the supplied head expander on top of the window. If desired, place fiber glass batt insulation between the expander and the window. Try the window to see if the expander rests too Caulk high.the legs of the expander may need to be trimmed with a razor 4. Caulk the inside edge of the blindstop along the top and down both sides. Make the caulk bead about 1/8". The bead should not lay against the window frame - just the blindstop. Place a bead of caulk on top of the expander. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 2A Inside of House Fig. 3 Caulk Caulk Fig. 4 Inside of House Fig. 5 Fig. 6 The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 10 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

12 Install the New Window 1. Place the window in the caulked opening by placing the inside lower edge on the outside sill tightly against the stool. Tilt the window into the opening taking care to have the outer edge rest securely on the sill angle. 2. Check for plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). It is important that the window remain square inthe opening even if the opening itself isn't square. Use flat shims to keep the window square. 3. Place the shims behind the mounting screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side at the top and bottom. Tighten the screws "finger tight." Use flat shims or non-tapered shims. Tapered shims can contort the frame which may impede smooth operation of the sash. Note: Some windows may have a "butterfly" clip with an adjustment screw in the center of each side. This adjuster eliminates the need for shims in the center of the window. Adjust the clips "finger tight".once the frame is anchored "finger-tight" check plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal), and square (90 degree corners) and tighten all the screws. Do not over-tighten. Secure is sufficient. If you over-tighten, the frame will deform and the window may not operate correctly or efficiently. Fig. 7 Use Flat Shims Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Level Fig. 11 Install Screws 4. Push the head expander up tight against the upper part of the opening. Replace the upper inside moulding tight against the expander. Secure the expander, if necessary, with the two small screws provided. Fig. 12 2" Fig. 10 2" 5. Replace the side inside mouldings tight against the window. Caulk against the inside mouldings and window to seal any gap. If you desire, you can replace the inside mouldings. 6. Caulk outside where the sill angle meets the sill. Take care to seal any gap (Fig. 5). 7. Caulk outside where the window meets the blindstop, (Fig. 6). The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 11 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

13 Finish the Job Inside and Outside To complete the installation and carefully seal against the weather, it is helpful to repair any damage to the outside of the house. Fill any old storm window holes or screen holes with putty. Use a paintable caulk so you'll be able to re-finish the outside and seal it to the new window. Caulk If you should damage the interior stops when you remove them, or if old curtain rod brackets have them damaged, it may be wise to replace them. Most lumberyards have a selection of mouldings that will match anything you might have. With the choices of pre-finished mouldings now available, it is even easier to complete the job - without painting or staining. Capping The Finished Installation Wherever possible, cover and seal the existing opening frame, and/or the cavity created between the newly installed window and the building veneer with properly installed capping materials.be sure to establish some sort of drip cap to divert water from the top, arounf to the sides of the window installation. Capped Installations should have the capping materials integrate or seal to the perimeter of the newly installed window or door to the siding in an air and water-tight manner. However, capping should be installed in such a manner to allow ventilation and moisture to escape from under the capping. For non-capped Installations, use suitable sealing materials and procedures to create a weather-tight seal between the newly installed window mainframe, and the opening into which it is installed. Choose your Caulk Carefully The caulk you choose is important. For interior use, especially if you are not going to paint, it should be a silicone-based sealant that closely matches the color of the vinyl replacement window. Exterior caulk should be a silicone based sealant if you're not painting, or a urethane based sealant if you intend to paint. The caulk you choose should carry a warranty of 20 years against drying out anor cracking The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 12 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

14 Installing Box Frame Sliding Windows The basics for installing a sliding window are not very different from the double hung. Head expanders and sill angles are used for many sliders exactly as they are used for double hung windows. Again, it is imperative to be sure the old frame is still properly integrated with the water management system of the wall, otherwise it would be better to use a frame out installation described elsewhere in this manual. There are two very important considerations when installing sliding windows: 1. The Sill Must Be Level. Just as it is important not to bow-in the sides of the double hung window, the lower and upper frame of the slider cannot be bowed. Check the level of the sill. Read the section in this book on Level and Square. The part of the opening where the sliding window will rest must be flat. If it is crowned or concave, then the track on which the operating sash will glide or roll, will not allow the operating sash to close properly, and the interlock between the two or three sash of a slider will not engage properly and there will be air and possible water leaks. If necessary, it would be wise to install a piece of exterior grade plywood along the bottom of the opening to ensure that it is flat. Just shimming the bottom of the window is often not sufficient to level the track because the weight of the operating sash can deform the track if the support of the under sill is not uniform (flat). Shimming the window underneath the track may temporarily solve the issue but over time, only a structural addition of something akin to plywood, will assure proper operation and weather tightness necessary for a sliding window. The plywood or other exterior grade material needs only to be 1/8-1/4 thick. The level of the sill should be checked when the opening is measured so the addition of the plywood can be determined to be necessary and its thickness can be accommodated in the sizing of the new window. The most important aspect of proper installation of a sliding window is to have a level sill If the sill is crowned or concave, place a piece of 1/8-1/4 waterproof plywood, cut to the proper length and width, on the sill to support the sliding window The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 13 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

15 Installation of the plywood should be adequately caulked underneath, and the plywood should be covered when capping the finished installation on the outside. 2. The Opening Must Be Square. Because there is no gravity to help the sash operate smoothly, the squareness of the opening is more important for a slider so that the operating sash do not bind up. Be careful to install the slider in a relaxed state. Don't push the window against the blindstop or anchor to the opening in a manner that might force the window to rack or twist. Other considerations when installing Sliding Windows. A. The sill must have uniform support across the whole sliding window, and the support must be greater than the width of the tracks. B. Any exterior finish work must not cover nor impede the operation of any weep holes which allow drainage of any accumulated water from the operating tracks. C. No anchor screws should be put through the sill/track of a slider. This may cause water to get under the window and cause water damage to the opening or leak in the house. D. Be sure that the full perimeter of the window is adequately insulated under the master frame. NOTE: Further information that will be helpful in installing Sliding Windows is found in this book in the sections on Frame-Out Method for Replacing Old Aluminum and Wood Windows, and Installing Windows in Masonry Openings. These sections show full-frame installation techniques which can be used when replacing an old sliding window with an integral nailing fin. Proper Sash/Frame Reveal must have A equal B and the window plumb and square Properly insulate the perimeter of the window frame. Sill Angle (If Seal the Exterior but do not cover the weep holes The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 14 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

16 Frame-In or Frame-Out...Which is best? Most callbacks for replacement applications are due to the failure or inability to integrate all 5 barriers of the wall to the new window. Replacement is different from New Construction applications because the opening has to be cleared of all unneeded parts of the old window. The opening needs to be properly prepared to receive the new window. Finally, the existing trim needs to be integrated to the new window. Two approaches There are two basic approaches to replacing existing windows with frames of wood, vinyl or a combination of materials. Frame-In. The old window frame is left in the opening with the idea that the interface between the old window and the wall is sufficiently intact to provide an adequate weather barrier and moisture control and/or the old frame is so embedded in the wall, removal would cause unnecessary and extensive damage. Frame-In can be accomplished from inside the house (Inside-Out) or from outside of the house (Outside In) discussed elsewhere in this manual. While each is somewhat unique unto itself, the relative goal is the same: place the new window in the old window frame and sufficiently interface the weather barriers and thermal barriers of the new window to the old window frame. Frame-Out. The old window is removed down to thee rough opening, requiring a new window and its frame to be integrated with the wall s weather, thermal and air barriers. It approximates a new installation, but has the added burden of the old siding and the interior wall and trim staying in place necessitating more care for the fit and finish. While exterior and interior trim are added later in new construction, with replacement they need to be cut back and then re-assembled up to the window to preserve or re-establishing the weather seal inside & out. Standard Installation of replacement windows, using pocket installation of box framed windows relies on Frame-in, and a Barrier-only install is often called Caulk and Walk. That s because the stop against which the box frame is mounted is caulked in an attempt to create an adequate barrier to water, air and moisture penetration of the old window frame cavity. In addition to relying on the old frame to still be an efficient part of the overall wall water management system, it relies on the long lasting ability of caulk/sealant to prevent water and air intrusion. Most caulks/sealants aren t up to the task. The only secure approach to water management is a Frame Out installation where the new window can be properly integrated into the wall s water management system through flashing, sill pans, and drip caps in addition to the caulk/sealant used. FRAME-IN FRAME-OUT Summary: Determine which is best: Frame-In or Frame-Out. Remind the homeowner that Frame-In may make it impossible to properly and completely interface the new window with all the weather barriers in the existing wall The most complete and weather-tight installation is a Frame-Out, using Divert, Drain, and Dry control techniques and materials to attempt reintegration of the window to the original DIVERT DRAIN 5 barriers. DRY and VAPOR CONTROL The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 15 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

17 If the decision is to leave the old frame intact, and mount the new window to it or over it, then the preparation of the old frame should include provision for drainage, as previously described. If the old frame is wood, then application of liquid flashing can be made to the remaining sill, painting it along the bottom and up 4 to 6 on each side. Apply the liquid so as to seal all joints of the sill to the interior stool, and to the jambs on each side. This will keep water that may collect under the new window from being absorbed into the old wood frame. Further, application of adhesive-backed flashing to the jambs and header will provide a diversion path for any water that comes into the cavity. The adhesive-backed flashing should be applied to overlap the liquid-applied sill flashing. When the new window is mounted, be sure that any sill angles or starter strips allow weeping of any collected water out from under the new window s sill. If the sill is capped, do not caulk the underside to prevent trapping of water or condensation under the sill capping. For aluminum windows, where the mounting fin is under the siding (stucco or other siding), you can remove the existing window s operating sash, and then the stationary glass panel. Cutting the bar between the sash and glazing panels creates an unobstructed opening, leaving the old sill, header and jambs in place. As before, use liquid applied flashing. The sill should be coated, carefully sealing the joints between the sill and the jambs. Apply the liquid up the sides 4 to 6 on each side. Cutting Back to the fin Remove the whole window If there are no weep holes in the left-in-place sill track, drill at least two to allow trapped water to drain to the outside. The installed window should have a flush frontal fin to overlap the siding while the frame of the new window rests on the left-in-place frame of the old window. Installing mounting blocks in the channels of the old sill will help support and level the new window. If the total frame is to be removed, start by cutting back the siding to expose the old mounting fin. This will allow the fasteners to be removed from the fin, opening the cavity to re-installation of a finned window. Molding is then re-installed, with appropriate drip cap and flashing, to mate up with the cut-back siding simulating brickmold trim, as shown. If the new window frame is deeper than the old frame, then the new window needs to be smaller in width and height to sit inside the leftin-place wallboard and stool, as shown. An alternative is to kerf a groove in the brick mold to fit over the nailing fin which will offset the new window towards the exterior so the interior face of the frame can sit in the same space as the old frame allowing the maximum width and height of the new window, as shown. It is also recommended that a waterproof trim be used. Free foam cellular pvc is a good choice. Many styles are available to match brickmold or other trim. Use pvc trim boards Good Better Best See Page 45 The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 16 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

18 Wood Frame-Out- Replacement Sequence Full Frame-Out for Wood Windows Wood windows present the same opportunity for Full Frame-Out installation. They, however, do not have an old fin but are similarly attached to the house framing such than when removed, they leave a clean opening into which a finned window can be easily re-flashed and installed properly. This approach will accurately provide a window that will fit and be able to be shimmed and flashed properly. There are many benefits to doing a Frame-Out installation beyond the better integration of the new window into the water management system of the wall. First, you can realize a greater glass area over traditional blindstop, sash-pocket installation because the new window is filling the total opening, not made smaller by the old frame. All pieces of the old window, complete with frame, sill and trim will need to be removed to expose wall framing. Weight Pockets can require additional 1 width Second, Frame-Out will let you install a bigger window maintaining egress accommodation - important in rooms where the window is the only means of escape in case of emergency or fire. The Frame-Out method requires that the new window be finned and have jamb extensions (either wood or extruded pvc). It also requires measuring accurately. Measure wood windows with weights and pulleys between the interior of the jambs for the width, and adding 3 inches, and the height taken between the interior face of the header and the sill and adding 3-1/2 inches. Frame-Out Gives 25% More Glass Area and Egress Area For wood windows with plastic track and spring balances, add 2 inches to the width and 2-1/2 inches to the height. Instead of the pocket Frame-In install, a larger finned new window is mounted to the framing with proper flashing, drip cap and effective sill pan. Cellular pvc trim is applied over the fin. Jamb extensions re-finish the interior. More Glass area, better water management. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 17 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

19 Metal Frame-Out- Replacement Sequence Step 1: Most original windows with a fin have been trimmed with applied exterior wood trim or casing to cover the mounting fin and abut the siding. Carefully break any sealed joints between the casing, the siding and the window. If there is no casing and the siding butts to window frame using a J Channel, cut-back the siding with circular saw or Fein Tool to expose the old window s fin, and proceed the same from there. At the finish, use J Channel or extended leg C Channel to cap the siding s cut ends and form a joint with the new casing trim. Step 3: Removed the nails carefully from the old window s fin. Try to disrupt old flashing as little as possible. Step 2: Remove Exterior Casing. Step 4: Create Sill Flashing using adhesive-backed flashing, and/or liquid applied flashing to cover the old sill and extend up the jambs about 6 inches. Removed trim will expose old window and its mounting fin. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 18 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

20 Step 5: Re-establish jamb and header flashing using adhesive-backed flashing or liquid applied flashing. Where adhesivebacked flashing is used, overlap the sill flashing with the jamb flashing, and overlap the jamb flashing with the header flashing. Step 7: Apply Adhesive-backed flashing over fin and tuck under siding. Place Drip Cap on top. Drip cap Window frame g Step 6: Set the new window in place. Carefully shim to leave drainage space at sill and make new window plumb, square and level. Step 7: Apply new pvc trim casing over flashed fin on header and jambs and then seal. Carefully fasten being careful not to nail the new window too tight. Use Simplex (or equal) cap nails at header to allow expansion. Trim placed along bottom must allow drainage of any water that may accumulate in sill. Simplex Cap Nails OVER fin allows frame to move better than nails through mounting slots The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 19 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

21 Frame Out - Destructive Tear Out Metal Windows Metal windows are often buried behind siding that was installed during new construction or a previous remodel of the home. J Channel was used to finish the newer siding, and cutting back everything to expose the window s fin can be an expensive approach. If the decision is for a Frame-Out, then a destructive Frame-Out may be the only alternative. This method is best when there is a large overhang or other architectural element on the home to limit the amount of direct rainfall on the new window. The operable sash and any fixed panels of glass are removed down to the old frame - sill, header and jambs. A pry bar is used to get under the sill, and using a wood block to avoid damage to the interior finish, the sill of the old window is pried up, the header pried down, and the jambs in from the side. This collapses the window into the opening so it can be removed. Prying the old frame, in essence, tears the mounting fin of the old window out of the space between the framing and the siding - destroying the continuity of the old flashing. It is imperative that some continuity be restored using liquid flashing, or adhesive-backed flashing to repair the opening. A drip cap and some functional sill pan should be created. Cover the 4 sides with cellular pvc of MDF board, which is sealed to the old opening. The bottom line is to be sure that water is diverted, drained and dried to effect a weather resistant installation. Liquid Flashing on exposed edges Drip Cap Pry-Out Old Frame Using Wood Block to Prevent Trim Damage Cellular pvc blocking for support Adhesive-backed flashing integrated with existing flashing Adhesive-backed flashing for effective sill pan Compressed Foam Tape Whether it s stucco, panel or lapped siding, prying out of the old frame is basically the same, requiring similar repairs. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 20 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

22 Application, Shimming, Fastening, & Caulking Application: The mainframe of the new unit must be installed in the plumb, level, and square manner. Make sure loads from the wall above are not transferred to the window. Shimming: All shimming should be done with the proper pressure to the mainframe of the newly installed window to guarantee the proper operation of the window sashes. The location of the shims will vary depending upon the window type, but there must be sufficient shims, properly located to minimize deflection of the frame or sill. The shims should be made of a material that is hard enough to support the window, provide good thermal insulation, resist decay, and allow for fastening to run through. Fastening: To fasten the window properly to the opening, use corrosion resistant fasteners of sufficient size and length to permanently anchor the new window. In most cases, these anchors are supplied with the window unit. 1. Fastening for Replacement or Renovation: Fasten to the jambs, and/or head sections of the leftin-place frame using corrosion resistant screws, or nails when conditions permit. Use non-tapered shims as needed, and install at all fastening points. 2. Fastening for New Construction: Fasten the new construction vinyl window into the opening structure by nailing through the integral fin. Shim any gap present between the new window and the opening, as needed. Use corrosion resistant fasteners. Caulking: 1. Replacement: Use caulking during mounting of replacement vinyl windows as follows: Inside/Out Application- Apply caulk to the back of the exterior stop, and under the sill when the newly installed window is mounted against the exterior stop. Outside/In Application- Apply caulk to the back of the interior stop, and under the sill when the newly installed window is mounted against the interior stop. 2. Renovation & New Construction: Caulking is not recommended for use during renovation or remodeling installation. Instead, the following describes the proper methods for perimeter sealing and weatherstripping. Insulation: After the new vinyl window is mounted in the opening, use fiberglass insulation, or equal to insulate any perimeter voids between the mainframe of the new window, and the opening. The insulation should never be compressed into the void(s) in a manner that lessens its insulation effectiveness. Also, compression of the insulation could exert pressure on the frame of the new window that will distort the frame, which could impede smooth operation of the new window. It is also recommended that a proper air seal on the warm side of the insulation be provided. Interior Air/Moisture Seal: It is recommended that an air and moisture seal be provided on the interior side of the rough opening gap using sealant, or Barrier Tape. To prevent drafts, heat loss, and further reduce the potential for the formation of condensation between the wall and the new window, it is essential that the rough opening gap doesn t allow air and moisture to pass between the new window and the existing wall into the opening cavity. 1. Sealant Method: Apply Caulk/Sealant to the interior side of the rough opening in a continuous manner to provide an even, unbroken sealant bead sufficient to fill the gap between the new window and the rough opening. Where needed, foam or rubber backer rod can be used as a bond breaker ensuring that the sealant only bonds to the window frame and the rough opening. The rod should be pushed in a distance equal to about one half the width of the joint, and sealant should be applied over the rod until flush with the inside of the new window, as shown. 2. The Barrier Tape Method: Tape that is impervious to air and moisture, with adhesive of sufficient strength to adhere to wood, vinyl, metal, or plastic shall be placed across the rough opening gap adhering to the dry wall on one side of the gap, and the interior surface of the window frame on the other, or between the new window frame and the left-in-place frame. For New Construction Applications, (fin applications), suitable, and properly lapped, building paper, sealing and flashing materials and procedures should be used. Integral nailing fins should be continuous around all corners. In the event that nailing fins have open corners, a 12 inch wide moisture resistant material should be installed on all sides, covering the fin and attaching to the sheathing. (See section on Penetration Flashing) The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 21 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

23 Types of Shims It really doesn t matter which type of anchor you use or what type of shim. The key is to be able to make the adjustment before you anchor the windows and provide solid support between the frame and the opening behind the anchors. The most common type are tapered wood shims. These are better versions of the wood shake cut-offs improperly used by poor installers. Pre-cut wood shims have a consistent taper and fit in smaller places. The downside is that they are tapered and must be used in pairs. Also, to effectively use a tapered shim, it often needs to go beyond the depth of the window frame, and that is not possible for many replacement applications. A better solution is stackable plastic shims These can be U shaped or horse shoe shaped with snap off length adjustment so they fit. The handle can then be broken off when final trim is applied. Also, plastic shims will not deteriorate in moist conditions which can be a real plus. Win-Bag is an inflating bag that when placed between the window frame and the rough opening, allows minute adjustments before anchoring and before final, solid shims are added. The product has wide use in the U.S. as a method to pry open car doors to unlock them, Win-Bag and other similar products are used extensively in Europe to center windows and doors in their openings. Many professional window and door installers use them because they are simple, precise, and can fit in the smallest spaces. Once the window frame is plumb, level and square, anchors are installed with wood or plastic shims added for support behind the anchors and the airbag shims are deflated and removed. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 22 Contents Do not reproduce without permission