The Illustrated Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows VERSION 7.1

Transcription

1 The Illustrated Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows VERSION 7.1 Complete Step by Step Manual for Repair, Replacement, and Remodeling with Vinyl Windows

2 Table of Contents Accurate Measurement... 3 Measuring for Full Frame Removal... 7 Frame-In Box Frame Installation... 8 Installing Box Frame Sliding Windows Frame-In versus Frame-Out Wood Frame-out Sequence Metal Frame-out Sequence Destructive Tear-out Application, Shimming, Fastening & Caulking Shims and Proper Shimming Proper Caulking Capping, Flashing and Vapor Barriers Outside-In Installation of Box Frame Windows Installing Casement & Awning Windows Installing Bay, Bow & Garden Windows Replacing Steel Windows Replacing Aluminum Windows Installing Windows in Masonry Openings Installing Basement Windows Combining Two or More Windows Structural Mulls Installing Vinyl Windows in New Construction Installing Curved and Angled Windows Frame-Out/Kerfed Trim Installation of Finned Windows F-Channel Installation Slow Expansion Foam Sealant Application Entry and Patio Door Installation Installing Replacement Doors Replacing a Window with a Door Finned Window in Wood Frame Stucco Applications Coastal CMU Installation with Buck Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, AWDI and the author are not liable and do not accept any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error. Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows Jervis & Associates - Do not reproduce without permission.

3 Introduction This book is about Replacement Windows and the techniques and application specific conditions you might meet. Replacement window, while primarily PVC (Vinyl Windows), there are other frame materials, such as fiberglass, that are popular, as well. Even wood framed windows can be replacement designed. Replacement design is more about the method of installation than a anything specific with regard to the glazing packages or the operation of the new window product. With modern manufacturing techniques and innovations in product design, today's residential Replacement Window is easy to measure, specify and install by professional contractors. The Replacement Window is very popular in American homes. This is due in no small way to the rise of a valueconscious consumer who is willing to invest in improving their lifestyle, improving their home, and saving energy. The majority of all home construction is based on similar dimensions of the building materials which has created wall thickness, and frame depths of consistent size and configuration. Standardization is the key. The fact that all studding is 2" x 4'', and common construction lumber is 2" x 6", 2" x 8",2" x 10", etc. and sheathing and wallboard panels are 4" x 8" is a result of standardization that created efficiencies and lower construction cost. This standardization is maintained through local and national building codes. Because of standardization, most residential Replacement Windows have a frame depth of 3-1/4" when requiring the use of inside stops. Frame depths up to 4-1/8" for heavy duty windows and some casement and awning windows are possible if flush trim is used. The instructions contained in this book are the result of industry best practices that will accomplish professional and consumer satisfying results. AWDI and the Window Fitters Guild use these instructions in their national Installer Certification program, and many of the instructions and techniques follow the published and accepted standards of other industry associations, and code bodies as well. Interfacing the Weather Barrier. All windows, when originally installed, have been to one degree or another interfaced with the weather resistant barrier of the existing building s wall. There are two basic approaches to replacement: Frame Out (total removal of old window and the new window is installed to rough opening), and Frame In (where sash and glazing panels are removed and the new window is fitted to the old frame. These guidelines assume that when the replacement is finished, regardless of the approach used, the integrity of the original weather resistant barrier has been maintained. Read this book first. This manual goes into detail about the general standards and recommendations for proper installation. These will give you an overview of the considerations and situations you must be concerned with and how to handle them. The manual deals with specific situations in removal, replacement, and new construction applications. The information contained on these pages will give you the knowledge and procedures required to do a proper job under most circumstances. Finally, this book is not designed to be a substitute for instructions provided by the manufacturer of the window you choose. Each installation situation can be different, and these instructions best serve as a guide. No warranty can be made, nor is implied by these instructions. And it is important that all applicable local building codes be followed when removing windows, altering openings, and installing new window products. Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, AWDI, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error The drawings, illustrations and instructions are protected under various Copyrights by Jervis & Associates and John H Jervis, from and licensed through AWDI, and may not be reproduced without expressed written permission of the copyright holder. Published under license by AWDI, LLC. The Contractor s Guide to Installing Replacement Windows Jervis & Associates - Do not reproduce without permission

4 Accurate Measurement is the Key to Quality Installation. When you specify a vinyl replacement window, it is made to fit the particular opening and it is important to correctly measure the opening. There are three critical measurements involved: Width, Height and Square. Outer Sash Parting Stop Brick Mould Balances Inner Sash Balances Blind Stop Height The height of the window is taken from the sill (from the point against the stool) to the header (at the point against the inside stop) as shown. Measure at the left, middle, and right and use the smallest dimension Muntins Parting Stop Interior Stop Sill Side Jamb Stool Apron Rail BASIC WINDOW ANATOMY Casing Width 1 This is the measurement that is given first when ordering a window. Because the inside stops 2 and parting stops are removed, 3 the width must be measured from jamb to jamb as shown. Measure at the top, middle, and bottom and use the smallest dimension. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 3 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

5 Often the success or failure of window installation begins with the proper measurements and opening status information or lack of it. Most installers or measurers are trained and record accurately the width and height of the opening. These measurements should be done with regard to the type of window and construction of the wall. Whatever method is used and/or described, it should be consistent between installers or measurers and openings and wall construction. In this way, the specified window is consistent and regardless of who measures and specifies, any installer working for the company will have the proper window and expectations at the job site. No surprises. In addition to the width and height, there are 6 other states or conditions of the opening that need to be measured, observed, and recorded so that the natural (or otherwise) idiosyncrasies of the opening are non ahead of time and can be accommodated in the specification of the needed window or door, and so that the proper materials and tools for correction will be known and provided at the job. Square Because some openings have become out-of-square over the years, it is important that the squareness of the opening be accurately measured. Measure the diagonals (upper left to lower right, and upper right to lower left) as accurately as possible from a point inside the stool to a point against the inside stop at the header. Record the two dimensions. If they are roughly equal, the opening can be assumed to be square. If they are not, then it is possible that the opening is out-of-square enough to cause the new window to be forced into an out-of-square condition during installation. If the new window is forced out-of-square, the interlock, sill and header seals can leak air and possibly water. Also the cam locks will not operate correctly and the window will wear out prematurely. Determine Square by measuring the corner diagonals (upper left to lower right, and lower left to upper right). Record both dimensions. The difference between them is the square condition. If the diagonals are not equal use the following simple equation. If the difference between your measured diagonals is greater than the allowable value, it may be appropriate to order a window 1/8 to 1/4 smaller than indicated by your measured width. This will allow the new window to be installed square in the opening. Then adequate sealing of the perimeter of the new window will complete the air-tight installation. Formula: D 2 L - D 2 S = W D L = Longer Diagonal D S = Shorter Diagonal W = Width of Opening The difference between the sum of the squares of the measured diagonals cannot be greater than the opening width. Example 1: Opening 36" wide by 48" high. The Long Diagonal is 60-3/8" and the Short Diagonal is 60-1/8". Squaring the Long Diagonal ( x ) equals 3,645.14". Squaring the Short Diagonal ( x ) equals 3,615.02". Subtracting them finds a difference of 30.12". The difference is less than the width of 36" so the opening is square enough to accept a window designed to fit a 36" x 48" opening. Example 2: Opening 28" x 60". The Long Diagonal is 66-3/8" and the Short Diagonal is 66-1/8". Squaring the Long Diagonal equals 4,405.64". Squaring the Short Diagonal equals 4,372.50". Subtracting equals 33.14" which is greater than the opening width of 28". The opening is out-of-square enough to warrant consideration of a window 1/8" to 1/4" narrower than a window designed to fit an opening 28" x 60". Level When installing a vinyl window, it is important that the sill on which the window is resting be level. Out of level sills can cause havoc in the operation of large windows, casement windows, awning windows, sliders, and even double and single hung windows. The main reason for this problem is that out of level sills will distort the frame to an out-of-square situation. Imagine a sill that slopes and the sides of the window are made plumb. By definition, the window frame will become a parallelogram where the header and the sill will be parallel, and the sides will be parallel, but the sides will not be at right angles (90 ) to the sill or header. This will make it nearly impossible for the sash, which will be square at the corners, to nest properly, lock properly, and seal out window and moisture properly. As the sash is forced into the out of square frame, undue pressure will be placed on the corners, the hardware, and even the glass and its seal. D L W D S A 32" sill can be 1/8" out of level and still meet code, but most sills are worse than that! The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 4 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

6 So, while most installers plumb the jambs, and attempt to level the header, they are more often than not unsuccessful because the sill is out-of-level (even in new construction) and they don t compensate for this with shimming. Construction Standards accept out-of-level sills up to 1/240th of the span. Translated into small dimensions, this allows each 32 span to be out of level up to 1/8. An average 6 foot picture window or garden window be out-of level over 1/4 in a new home. In older homes, the situation can be worse due to settling and softer building codes. Construction debris, nail heads, knots and splits in the subsill can create irregularities in the level of the sill on which the new window rests. The first solution is to shim the bottom of the window unit to level, as long as shimming doesn t raise the sill to a point where water can leak under the sill to rot the subsill or leak into the house. Because a shimmed sill can cause part of the window bottom to be unsupported, it is possible that the sill will bend under the weight. And, in cases where there is a crown in the sill, shimming becomes complicated considering the size and weight of the master frame. The only stable and long-lasting solution is to establish level across the entire sill prior to installation. Use some kind of shimming, hardening filler, or a rigid sub-sill. LEVEL PLUMB T Plumb Plumb is measured with a Bulb Level placed on each jamb. Record how much one end needs to be moved away from the jamb to create a plumb condition on each side. Plumb is often defined as vertical level. The sides of the opening must be vertical so as not to distort or skew the window or door frame. Out of plumb can render locks inoperable at worst, and difficult to operate at best. As with level, construction often accepts out-of-plumb, so while measurements of width and height may be relatively equal in the 3 recommended locations, it doesn t mean the sill is level or the jambs plumb. Record the condition of the plumb of the jambs on the specification sheet. SQUARE PLANAR Cross Point Planar Planar is measured by temporarily anchoring a string diagonally from upper corner to opposite lower corner. The strings will touch in the center where they cross, or they will not. If they touch, reverse which string is on the outside. If they cease touching, the distance between the strings where they cross will be the planar condition measurement. This condition is significant because it will indicate that the upper corner of the window is not flat in plane to the opposite lower corner. This will render the new window contorted in installation. Careful Measuring and Checking is the difference between successful installation and problems. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 5 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

7 If it is a finned window, the fin will not rest flat on the frame of the opening without pushing the window out of shape. This can impede operation. Worse might be leaving the out-of-plane condition opening up one or more corners to leaks. If possible, you can use the Bulb Level on the face of the wall to determine if one side or both sides are out of plane and by how much. Record all these dimensions on the specification sheet. Crown This condition will appear in the sill where the center between the jambs is higher than at the edges of the opening. Placing a window or door on a crowned sill can cause the interlocks to not meet properly; the panels to not slide properly on a sliding window or door, or will impede the proper operation of a hinged door or window. Use a Bulb Level to determine crown, and record location of the crown, and measure how much the edge of the level needs to be raised on either side of the high point to create a level condition. Record these measurements to help in sizing and shimming needs. Bow The opposite of Crown, a Bow will be a low spot between the jambs. As with a crown, a depression can cause the sill of the window or door to deflect and impede proper operation and sealing/locking. As with Crown, record location and height differences on either side of the depression. Record these dimensions on the specification sheet. Trapezoid While most openings have equal widths and equal heights down and across the opening, occasional an opening can be wider at the top, or wider at the bottom. This condition might become evident when measuring the plumb and square, but a trapezoidal effect can require a change in the width and/or height of the specified window, and therefore needs to be recorded on its own on the specification sheet. The Specifier should consider the conditions of the opening to properly order the appropriate size of the new window. Then the installer should consider all 8 states or conditions to properly prepare to install the new window in a plumb, square and planar condition necessary for proper operation, locking, and sealing. CROWN IN SILL BOW IN SILL UNLEVEL SILL CROWN BOW TRAPEZOID The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 6 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

8 Measuring for Full Frame Removal Most instructions show measurements taken within the tracks from one side to the other, and from top to bottom. These measurements are sufficient for box frame or pocket replacement - i.e., Frame-In replacement. However, windows are installed initially against the rough framing (the rough opening), before the interior wall board and exterior siding is installed and trimmed out. Sash Weights If the old wood window has weights, there is a weight pocket behind the jambs. The outer surface of the sloped sill of old wood windows is considerably above the rough sill; and depending on the thickness of the window sill itself, it becomes difficult to estimate the real rough opening dimensions if the old window was totally removed. And, certainly you don t want to be removing the old window and then measuring in order to properly size the new window. EXTRA SPACE IN WEIGHT POCKET Perhaps worse is receiving the new windows on the job, removing the old windows and finding there is a mis-measure (really a mis-estimate) requiring fill-in or larger gaps that invite water and air infiltration. Experienced installers may be able to eyeball the real dimension, but the safest way is to get the real dimensions and supply them to the factory with the order. The drawings show the actual relationship between the rough opening and the interior surfaces of wood and finned window. Using a small drill bit, it is possible to make a small hole into which the drill bit can be inserted, and using your fingers, you can identify the additional space that will be exposed when the old window is totally removed. The following measurement sheets have extensive dimension call-outs. Too much information back at the factory is better than too little. Use your best judgement. USING A SMALL DRILL BIT, CREATE A HOLE IN THE FRAME OR THE WALL BOARD TO INSERT. USING YOUR FINGERS, AS SHOWN, PUSH THE DRILL BIT UNTIL IT RESTS ON THE ROUGH OPENING FRAMING. REMOVE THE DRILL BIT AND MEASURE FROM YOUR FINGERS TO THE DRILL BIT TIP AND ADD THAT TO THE MEASUREMENT BETWEEN THE INSIDE SURFACES OF THE OLD WINDOW FRAME. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 7 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

9 Frame-In Installation of Box-Frame Vinyl Replacement Windows If you have determined that the old wood window frame is adequately interfaced with the existing wall s water management system, Vinyl Replacement Windows are designed to fit neatly and effortlessly into the opening left by the removal of the existing sash in an old wood window. Sized perfectly, the 3-1/4" frame fits into space where the sash and parting stops were. Tools You Will Need Modern, quality, vinyl replacement windows need only simple hand tools for installation. PRYBAR TAPE PLIERS The head expander and sill angle which are supplied with most vinyl windows accommodate the variances that time and weather made in the old window frame. The new window is anchored to the old wood window frame - against the exterior or "blindstop", and the interior stops are re-installed to complete the installation. BRUSH RAZOR KNIFE CHISEL CAULK AND GUN In order to have a successful installation, it is important to accurately measure for the new vinyl replacement window and specify the appropriate size. Properly measured and ordered, the new window will fit perfectly, with minimum effort, and provide an installation that will give years and years of satisfactory performance. Before You Start Read these instructions carefully and identify all the pieces to be removed or added during the installation. Not only are the basics easy and simple, but all work can be done from inside the house. Some windows are shipped with bands around the middle of the window - or have some other arrangement to keep the unit in square. Do not remove the bands until the unit is in the opening and secured. SQUARE SCREWDRIVERS HAMMER DRILL RECIPROSAW LEVEL DRILL BIT Some other considerations When replacing an old window with a modern vinyl replacement window, you will no longer need storm windows or separate screens. If there are screens or storms mounted to the outside of the house, it might be better if they were removed. This will give you the opportunity to thoroughly clean the opening and seal or paint any problem areas. If you wish to re-mount the storm windows, they will not interfere with the new replacement window. The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 8 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

10 Remove the Old Window Parting Stop Brickmould Blindstop Parting Stop Top Sash Bottom Sash Casing Inside Stop Fig. 1 Stool 1. Remove the inside mouldings (stops) with a broad chisel and save them for later use, being careful not to break them. 2. Any cords and weights, or spring balances can then be removed so that the old bottom wood sash can be easily removed as shown. Remove the pulleys. If the screws can't be backed out because of corrosion, stick the flathead screwdriver into the pulley and pry it out. 3. Pry out the top parting stop. Pliers can easily remove most stops. 4. Pry out the side stops - left and right. For stops that are heavily painted or stuck, you can use the broad chisel to shear off the part of the stop that protrudes into the jamb. 5. Once the parting stops are out, the upper sash can be easily removed from the outer track. Fig. 2 Windows with Aluminum Tracks Fig. 6 Fig. 6A Fig. 7 Fig. 3 & 4 6. If the old window has pre-formed aluminum tracks, there will be no wood parting stops on the sides, but there will be one on top. Remove the top parting stop Then remove the staples holding the pre-formed track. There is also a small aluminum block on the top and bottom of the aluminum track. It too, must be removed. 7. Once the staples are removed, both the upper and lower sash-and the tracks can be removed as a single unit Fig. 5 The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 9 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

11 Prepare the Opening 1. Clean the opening of any debris. Cover any holes made by the weight pulleys, etc. Remove any old screen hook eyes or other protruding screws or fasteners. If there are holes left by the old weights and cords, fill the holes with batt insulation and cover with a thin metal plate or aluminum tape. NOTE: It is recommended that you flash the left-in-place frame to be sure that any water in the wall is able to escape the opening without damaging the old frame. Use liquid-applied flashing on the sill and adhesive backed flashing on the jambs and header making sure you overlap for drainage. Expander Utility Knife 2. After you flash the opening, install the supplied Starter Strip - Sill Angle on the outer sill, 1/8" behind the blind stop. Caulk the inside edge of the stool and outside along sill angle. 3. Install the supplied head expander on top of the window. If desired, place fiber glass batt insulation between the expander and the window. Try the window to see if the expander rests too Caulk high.the legs of the expander may need to be trimmed with a razor 4. Caulk the inside edge of the blindstop along the top and down both sides. Make the caulk bead about 1/8". The bead should not lay against the window frame - just the blindstop. Place a bead of caulk on top of the expander. Fig. 1 Fig. 2 Fig. 2A Inside of House Fig. 3 Caulk Caulk Fig. 4 Inside of House Fig. 5 Fig. 6 The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 10 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

12 Install the New Window 1. Place the window in the caulked opening by placing the inside lower edge on the outside sill tightly against the stool. Tilt the window into the opening taking care to have the outer edge rest securely on the sill angle. 2. Check for plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal). It is important that the window remain square inthe opening even if the opening itself isn't square. Use flat shims to keep the window square. 3. Place the shims behind the mounting screw holes. There are 2 screw holes on each side at the top and bottom. Tighten the screws "finger tight." Use flat shims or non-tapered shims. Tapered shims can contort the frame which may impede smooth operation of the sash. Note: Some windows may have a "butterfly" clip with an adjustment screw in the center of each side. This adjuster eliminates the need for shims in the center of the window. Adjust the clips "finger tight".once the frame is anchored "finger-tight" check plumb (vertical) and level (horizontal), and square (90 degree corners) and tighten all the screws. Do not over-tighten. Secure is sufficient. If you over-tighten, the frame will deform and the window may not operate correctly or efficiently. Fig. 7 Use Flat Shims Fig. 8 Fig. 9 Level Fig. 11 Install Screws 4. Push the head expander up tight against the upper part of the opening. Replace the upper inside moulding tight against the expander. Secure the expander, if necessary, with the two small screws provided. Fig. 12 2" Fig. 10 2" 5. Replace the side inside mouldings tight against the window. Caulk against the inside mouldings and window to seal any gap. If you desire, you can replace the inside mouldings. 6. Caulk outside where the sill angle meets the sill. Take care to seal any gap (Fig. 5). 7. Caulk outside where the window meets the blindstop, (Fig. 6). The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 11 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

13 Finish the Job Inside and Outside To complete the installation and carefully seal against the weather, it is helpful to repair any damage to the outside of the house. Fill any old storm window holes or screen holes with putty. Use a paintable caulk so you'll be able to re-finish the outside and seal it to the new window. Caulk If you should damage the interior stops when you remove them, or if old curtain rod brackets have them damaged, it may be wise to replace them. Most lumberyards have a selection of mouldings that will match anything you might have. With the choices of pre-finished mouldings now available, it is even easier to complete the job - without painting or staining. Capping The Finished Installation Wherever possible, cover and seal the existing opening frame, and/or the cavity created between the newly installed window and the building veneer with properly installed capping materials.be sure to establish some sort of drip cap to divert water from the top, arounf to the sides of the window installation. Capped Installations should have the capping materials integrate or seal to the perimeter of the newly installed window or door to the siding in an air and water-tight manner. However, capping should be installed in such a manner to allow ventilation and moisture to escape from under the capping. For non-capped Installations, use suitable sealing materials and procedures to create a weather-tight seal between the newly installed window mainframe, and the opening into which it is installed. Choose your Caulk Carefully The caulk you choose is important. For interior use, especially if you are not going to paint, it should be a silicone-based sealant that closely matches the color of the vinyl replacement window. Exterior caulk should be a silicone based sealant if you're not painting, or a urethane based sealant if you intend to paint. The caulk you choose should carry a warranty of 20 years against drying out anor cracking The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 12 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

14 Installing Box Frame Sliding Windows The basics for installing a sliding window are not very different from the double hung. Head expanders and sill angles are used for many sliders exactly as they are used for double hung windows. Again, it is imperative to be sure the old frame is still properly integrated with the water management system of the wall, otherwise it would be better to use a frame out installation described elsewhere in this manual. There are two very important considerations when installing sliding windows: 1. The Sill Must Be Level. Just as it is important not to bow-in the sides of the double hung window, the lower and upper frame of the slider cannot be bowed. Check the level of the sill. Read the section in this book on Level and Square. The part of the opening where the sliding window will rest must be flat. If it is crowned or concave, then the track on which the operating sash will glide or roll, will not allow the operating sash to close properly, and the interlock between the two or three sash of a slider will not engage properly and there will be air and possible water leaks. If necessary, it would be wise to install a piece of exterior grade plywood along the bottom of the opening to ensure that it is flat. Just shimming the bottom of the window is often not sufficient to level the track because the weight of the operating sash can deform the track if the support of the under sill is not uniform (flat). Shimming the window underneath the track may temporarily solve the issue but over time, only a structural addition of something akin to plywood, will assure proper operation and weather tightness necessary for a sliding window. The plywood or other exterior grade material needs only to be 1/8-1/4 thick. The level of the sill should be checked when the opening is measured so the addition of the plywood can be determined to be necessary and its thickness can be accommodated in the sizing of the new window. The most important aspect of proper installation of a sliding window is to have a level sill If the sill is crowned or concave, place a piece of 1/8-1/4 waterproof plywood, cut to the proper length and width, on the sill to support the sliding window The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 13 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

15 Installation of the plywood should be adequately caulked underneath, and the plywood should be covered when capping the finished installation on the outside. 2. The Opening Must Be Square. Because there is no gravity to help the sash operate smoothly, the squareness of the opening is more important for a slider so that the operating sash do not bind up. Be careful to install the slider in a relaxed state. Don't push the window against the blindstop or anchor to the opening in a manner that might force the window to rack or twist. Other considerations when installing Sliding Windows. A. The sill must have uniform support across the whole sliding window, and the support must be greater than the width of the tracks. B. Any exterior finish work must not cover nor impede the operation of any weep holes which allow drainage of any accumulated water from the operating tracks. C. No anchor screws should be put through the sill/track of a slider. This may cause water to get under the window and cause water damage to the opening or leak in the house. D. Be sure that the full perimeter of the window is adequately insulated under the master frame. NOTE: Further information that will be helpful in installing Sliding Windows is found in this book in the sections on Frame-Out Method for Replacing Old Aluminum and Wood Windows, and Installing Windows in Masonry Openings. These sections show full-frame installation techniques which can be used when replacing an old sliding window with an integral nailing fin. Proper Sash/Frame Reveal must have A equal B and the window plumb and square Properly insulate the perimeter of the window frame. Sill Angle (If Seal the Exterior but do not cover the weep holes The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 14 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

16 Frame-In or Frame-Out...Which is best? Most callbacks for replacement applications are due to the failure or inability to integrate all 5 barriers of the wall to the new window. Replacement is different from New Construction applications because the opening has to be cleared of all unneeded parts of the old window. The opening needs to be properly prepared to receive the new window. Finally, the existing trim needs to be integrated to the new window. Two approaches There are two basic approaches to replacing existing windows with frames of wood, vinyl or a combination of materials. Frame-In. The old window frame is left in the opening with the idea that the interface between the old window and the wall is sufficiently intact to provide an adequate weather barrier and moisture control and/or the old frame is so embedded in the wall, removal would cause unnecessary and extensive damage. Frame-In can be accomplished from inside the house (Inside-Out) or from outside of the house (Outside In) discussed elsewhere in this manual. While each is somewhat unique unto itself, the relative goal is the same: place the new window in the old window frame and sufficiently interface the weather barriers and thermal barriers of the new window to the old window frame. Frame-Out. The old window is removed down to thee rough opening, requiring a new window and its frame to be integrated with the wall s weather, thermal and air barriers. It approximates a new installation, but has the added burden of the old siding and the interior wall and trim staying in place necessitating more care for the fit and finish. While exterior and interior trim are added later in new construction, with replacement they need to be cut back and then re-assembled up to the window to preserve or re-establishing the weather seal inside & out. Standard Installation of replacement windows, using pocket installation of box framed windows relies on Frame-in, and a Barrier-only install is often called Caulk and Walk. That s because the stop against which the box frame is mounted is caulked in an attempt to create an adequate barrier to water, air and moisture penetration of the old window frame cavity. In addition to relying on the old frame to still be an efficient part of the overall wall water management system, it relies on the long lasting ability of caulk/sealant to prevent water and air intrusion. Most caulks/sealants aren t up to the task. The only secure approach to water management is a Frame Out installation where the new window can be properly integrated into the wall s water management system through flashing, sill pans, and drip caps in addition to the caulk/sealant used. FRAME-IN FRAME-OUT Summary: Determine which is best: Frame-In or Frame-Out. Remind the homeowner that Frame-In may make it impossible to properly and completely interface the new window with all the weather barriers in the existing wall The most complete and weather-tight installation is a Frame-Out, using Divert, Drain, and Dry control techniques and materials to attempt reintegration of the window to the original DIVERT DRAIN 5 barriers. DRY and VAPOR CONTROL The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 15 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

17 If the decision is to leave the old frame intact, and mount the new window to it or over it, then the preparation of the old frame should include provision for drainage, as previously described. If the old frame is wood, then application of liquid flashing can be made to the remaining sill, painting it along the bottom and up 4 to 6 on each side. Apply the liquid so as to seal all joints of the sill to the interior stool, and to the jambs on each side. This will keep water that may collect under the new window from being absorbed into the old wood frame. Further, application of adhesive-backed flashing to the jambs and header will provide a diversion path for any water that comes into the cavity. The adhesive-backed flashing should be applied to overlap the liquid-applied sill flashing. When the new window is mounted, be sure that any sill angles or starter strips allow weeping of any collected water out from under the new window s sill. If the sill is capped, do not caulk the underside to prevent trapping of water or condensation under the sill capping. For aluminum windows, where the mounting fin is under the siding (stucco or other siding), you can remove the existing window s operating sash, and then the stationary glass panel. Cutting the bar between the sash and glazing panels creates an unobstructed opening, leaving the old sill, header and jambs in place. As before, use liquid applied flashing. The sill should be coated, carefully sealing the joints between the sill and the jambs. Apply the liquid up the sides 4 to 6 on each side. Cutting Back to the fin Remove the whole window If there are no weep holes in the left-in-place sill track, drill at least two to allow trapped water to drain to the outside. The installed window should have a flush frontal fin to overlap the siding while the frame of the new window rests on the left-in-place frame of the old window. Installing mounting blocks in the channels of the old sill will help support and level the new window. If the total frame is to be removed, start by cutting back the siding to expose the old mounting fin. This will allow the fasteners to be removed from the fin, opening the cavity to re-installation of a finned window. Molding is then re-installed, with appropriate drip cap and flashing, to mate up with the cut-back siding simulating brickmold trim, as shown. If the new window frame is deeper than the old frame, then the new window needs to be smaller in width and height to sit inside the leftin-place wallboard and stool, as shown. An alternative is to kerf a groove in the brick mold to fit over the nailing fin which will offset the new window towards the exterior so the interior face of the frame can sit in the same space as the old frame allowing the maximum width and height of the new window, as shown. It is also recommended that a waterproof trim be used. Free foam cellular pvc is a good choice. Many styles are available to match brickmold or other trim. Use pvc trim boards Good Better Best See Page 45 The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 16 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

18 Wood Frame-Out- Replacement Sequence Full Frame-Out for Wood Windows Wood windows present the same opportunity for Full Frame-Out installation. They, however, do not have an old fin but are similarly attached to the house framing such than when removed, they leave a clean opening into which a finned window can be easily re-flashed and installed properly. This approach will accurately provide a window that will fit and be able to be shimmed and flashed properly. There are many benefits to doing a Frame-Out installation beyond the better integration of the new window into the water management system of the wall. First, you can realize a greater glass area over traditional blindstop, sash-pocket installation because the new window is filling the total opening, not made smaller by the old frame. All pieces of the old window, complete with frame, sill and trim will need to be removed to expose wall framing. Weight Pockets can require additional 1 width Second, Frame-Out will let you install a bigger window maintaining egress accommodation - important in rooms where the window is the only means of escape in case of emergency or fire. The Frame-Out method requires that the new window be finned and have jamb extensions (either wood or extruded pvc). It also requires measuring accurately. Measure wood windows with weights and pulleys between the interior of the jambs for the width, and adding 3 inches, and the height taken between the interior face of the header and the sill and adding 3-1/2 inches. Frame-Out Gives 25% More Glass Area and Egress Area For wood windows with plastic track and spring balances, add 2 inches to the width and 2-1/2 inches to the height. Instead of the pocket Frame-In install, a larger finned new window is mounted to the framing with proper flashing, drip cap and effective sill pan. Cellular pvc trim is applied over the fin. Jamb extensions re-finish the interior. More Glass area, better water management. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 17 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

19 Metal Frame-Out- Replacement Sequence Step 1: Most original windows with a fin have been trimmed with applied exterior wood trim or casing to cover the mounting fin and abut the siding. Carefully break any sealed joints between the casing, the siding and the window. If there is no casing and the siding butts to window frame using a J Channel, cut-back the siding with circular saw or Fein Tool to expose the old window s fin, and proceed the same from there. At the finish, use J Channel or extended leg C Channel to cap the siding s cut ends and form a joint with the new casing trim. Step 3: Removed the nails carefully from the old window s fin. Try to disrupt old flashing as little as possible. Step 2: Remove Exterior Casing. Step 4: Create Sill Flashing using adhesive-backed flashing, and/or liquid applied flashing to cover the old sill and extend up the jambs about 6 inches. Removed trim will expose old window and its mounting fin. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 18 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

20 Step 5: Re-establish jamb and header flashing using adhesive-backed flashing or liquid applied flashing. Where adhesivebacked flashing is used, overlap the sill flashing with the jamb flashing, and overlap the jamb flashing with the header flashing. Step 7: Apply Adhesive-backed flashing over fin and tuck under siding. Place Drip Cap on top. Drip cap Window frame g Step 6: Set the new window in place. Carefully shim to leave drainage space at sill and make new window plumb, square and level. Step 7: Apply new pvc trim casing over flashed fin on header and jambs and then seal. Carefully fasten being careful not to nail the new window too tight. Use Simplex (or equal) cap nails at header to allow expansion. Trim placed along bottom must allow drainage of any water that may accumulate in sill. Simplex Cap Nails OVER fin allows frame to move better than nails through mounting slots The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 19 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

21 Frame Out - Destructive Tear Out Metal Windows Metal windows are often buried behind siding that was installed during new construction or a previous remodel of the home. J Channel was used to finish the newer siding, and cutting back everything to expose the window s fin can be an expensive approach. If the decision is for a Frame-Out, then a destructive Frame-Out may be the only alternative. This method is best when there is a large overhang or other architectural element on the home to limit the amount of direct rainfall on the new window. The operable sash and any fixed panels of glass are removed down to the old frame - sill, header and jambs. A pry bar is used to get under the sill, and using a wood block to avoid damage to the interior finish, the sill of the old window is pried up, the header pried down, and the jambs in from the side. This collapses the window into the opening so it can be removed. Prying the old frame, in essence, tears the mounting fin of the old window out of the space between the framing and the siding - destroying the continuity of the old flashing. It is imperative that some continuity be restored using liquid flashing, or adhesive-backed flashing to repair the opening. A drip cap and some functional sill pan should be created. Cover the 4 sides with cellular pvc of MDF board, which is sealed to the old opening. The bottom line is to be sure that water is diverted, drained and dried to effect a weather resistant installation. Liquid Flashing on exposed edges Drip Cap Pry-Out Old Frame Using Wood Block to Prevent Trim Damage Cellular pvc blocking for support Adhesive-backed flashing integrated with existing flashing Adhesive-backed flashing for effective sill pan Compressed Foam Tape Whether it s stucco, panel or lapped siding, prying out of the old frame is basically the same, requiring similar repairs. The Contractors Guide to Installing Replacement Windows 20 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

22 Application, Shimming, Fastening, & Caulking Application: The mainframe of the new unit must be installed in the plumb, level, and square manner. Make sure loads from the wall above are not transferred to the window. Shimming: All shimming should be done with the proper pressure to the mainframe of the newly installed window to guarantee the proper operation of the window sashes. The location of the shims will vary depending upon the window type, but there must be sufficient shims, properly located to minimize deflection of the frame or sill. The shims should be made of a material that is hard enough to support the window, provide good thermal insulation, resist decay, and allow for fastening to run through. Fastening: To fasten the window properly to the opening, use corrosion resistant fasteners of sufficient size and length to permanently anchor the new window. In most cases, these anchors are supplied with the window unit. 1. Fastening for Replacement or Renovation: Fasten to the jambs, and/or head sections of the leftin-place frame using corrosion resistant screws, or nails when conditions permit. Use non-tapered shims as needed, and install at all fastening points. 2. Fastening for New Construction: Fasten the new construction vinyl window into the opening structure by nailing through the integral fin. Shim any gap present between the new window and the opening, as needed. Use corrosion resistant fasteners. Caulking: 1. Replacement: Use caulking during mounting of replacement vinyl windows as follows: Inside/Out Application- Apply caulk to the back of the exterior stop, and under the sill when the newly installed window is mounted against the exterior stop. Outside/In Application- Apply caulk to the back of the interior stop, and under the sill when the newly installed window is mounted against the interior stop. 2. Renovation & New Construction: Caulking is not recommended for use during renovation or remodeling installation. Instead, the following describes the proper methods for perimeter sealing and weatherstripping. Insulation: After the new vinyl window is mounted in the opening, use fiberglass insulation, or equal to insulate any perimeter voids between the mainframe of the new window, and the opening. The insulation should never be compressed into the void(s) in a manner that lessens its insulation effectiveness. Also, compression of the insulation could exert pressure on the frame of the new window that will distort the frame, which could impede smooth operation of the new window. It is also recommended that a proper air seal on the warm side of the insulation be provided. Interior Air/Moisture Seal: It is recommended that an air and moisture seal be provided on the interior side of the rough opening gap using sealant, or Barrier Tape. To prevent drafts, heat loss, and further reduce the potential for the formation of condensation between the wall and the new window, it is essential that the rough opening gap doesn t allow air and moisture to pass between the new window and the existing wall into the opening cavity. 1. Sealant Method: Apply Caulk/Sealant to the interior side of the rough opening in a continuous manner to provide an even, unbroken sealant bead sufficient to fill the gap between the new window and the rough opening. Where needed, foam or rubber backer rod can be used as a bond breaker ensuring that the sealant only bonds to the window frame and the rough opening. The rod should be pushed in a distance equal to about one half the width of the joint, and sealant should be applied over the rod until flush with the inside of the new window, as shown. 2. The Barrier Tape Method: Tape that is impervious to air and moisture, with adhesive of sufficient strength to adhere to wood, vinyl, metal, or plastic shall be placed across the rough opening gap adhering to the dry wall on one side of the gap, and the interior surface of the window frame on the other, or between the new window frame and the left-in-place frame. For New Construction Applications, (fin applications), suitable, and properly lapped, building paper, sealing and flashing materials and procedures should be used. Integral nailing fins should be continuous around all corners. In the event that nailing fins have open corners, a 12 inch wide moisture resistant material should be installed on all sides, covering the fin and attaching to the sheathing. (See section on Penetration Flashing) The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 21 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

23 Types of Shims It really doesn t matter which type of anchor you use or what type of shim. The key is to be able to make the adjustment before you anchor the windows and provide solid support between the frame and the opening behind the anchors. The most common type are tapered wood shims. These are better versions of the wood shake cut-offs improperly used by poor installers. Pre-cut wood shims have a consistent taper and fit in smaller places. The downside is that they are tapered and must be used in pairs. Also, to effectively use a tapered shim, it often needs to go beyond the depth of the window frame, and that is not possible for many replacement applications. A better solution is stackable plastic shims These can be U shaped or horse shoe shaped with snap off length adjustment so they fit. The handle can then be broken off when final trim is applied. Also, plastic shims will not deteriorate in moist conditions which can be a real plus. Win-Bag is an inflating bag that when placed between the window frame and the rough opening, allows minute adjustments before anchoring and before final, solid shims are added. The product has wide use in the U.S. as a method to pry open car doors to unlock them, Win-Bag and other similar products are used extensively in Europe to center windows and doors in their openings. Many professional window and door installers use them because they are simple, precise, and can fit in the smallest spaces. Once the window frame is plumb, level and square, anchors are installed with wood or plastic shims added for support behind the anchors and the airbag shims are deflated and removed. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 22 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

24 Details of Proper Shimming Shimming is necessary for almost every window and door installation - mostly because there is no such thing as a perfectly square and plumb opening. Shimming allows you to center the window and level and plumb the window in the opening. Shimming is also one of the more misunderstood, and/or carelessly attended to steps in installation. Very few installers bring adequate shimming to the job with them and the installation is the worse for it. There are two keys to proper shimming 1. Shims must be between the window unit and the rough opening at each spot where the anchor screws are placed, and the screws should pass through the shims in order to keep them from shifting in the opening, and to ensure that the window frame is secure and snug to the rough opening 2. Shimming must be flat. Using tapered shims alone will result in the distorting of the window frame which will not only keep the frame from being adequately secured to the rough opening, but will probably cause the distorted frame to either impede the operation of the window or door unit, or cause the precision balances or weatherstripping to fail to work properly or wear out prematurely. Tapered Shims in Pairs create "level" support If the window unit is not fitted with factory installed butterfly clips or flat plastic shims are not available, tapered shims are best used in pairs. In this method, the first shim is placed fat side in, the the second is slid in thin side first until the pair makes a flat, and snug fit. Then the shim pair is trimmed flush to the outer edge of the window frame. Since windows with fins or replacement windows fitted against the old window stops prevent shims from passing through to extend on both sides, it becomes tricky to install them properly. With available shim stock, precuts are usually 12 inches long, 1-1/2 wide and taper from 5/16 at the fat end to nothing at the other end. After inserting shim pairs cut off the ends flush with window frame Two Solutions Plastic, Stackable Shims Horseshoe or u shaped shims work perfectly because the open portion goes over the anchor screw and because they come in different thicknesses, and are stackable (small grooves lock them in a pile as more are added), shims can be added and removed as the window is leveled, plumbed and squared. ShimQuik Anchors. Developed in Europe for these anchors have a collar set just below the head so that the anchor snaps into the hollow lineal holding the lineal s wall between the collar and the head. In this way, as the anchor is turned clockwise, the frame is pulled closer to the opening wall. When the anchor is turned counter-clockwise, the window or door frame is pulled away from the opening wall. The result is dynamic shimming during installation and after. With ShimQuik anchors, final adjustments can be made after all trim is added allowing precsision alignment of the locks, interlock and weatherstripping. ShimQuik anchors come with plugs for use in concrete walls to meet Hurricane Codes. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 23 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

25 Details of Proper Caulking What is the difference between caulks and sealants? They are in essence interchangeable terms. Literally, caulking is a soft, putty-like material for sealing joints where leakage or movement may occur, and sealants are compounds used to fill and seal a joint where movement or leakage is expected. FAILURE BOND BREAKER TAPE O.K. BACKER ROD FAILURE BOND BREAKER TAPE O.K. With all the different types of materials that need to be caulked or sealed, it's difficult to choose among the variety of brands and types of sealants. To best decide which type of caulk or sealant will work best, it is better to look first at what caulks are supposed to do, and why most sealant failures occur. It s important to know what properties a caulk will need to perform in a particular installation of a window or door. In simple terms, caulks are supposed to seal a joint between two materials so that air and moisture cannot penetrate the joint and this joint must stay sealed under variable weather conditions and even if the two materials move. Therefore, caulks must stick to the two surfaces, have elasticity to withstand movement, and must not deteriorate due to the environment. Caulks and sealants fail because they don't stick, won't move, or they dry out, crack, or shrink. The major considerations are Material Movement and Joint Design. The two materials being joined are subject to expansion and contraction due to temperature and moisture changes, and there may be movement due to use. It is necessary to design a joint that allows the movement without overtaxing the elasticity of the caulk. Some basic guidelines to follow: 1. Oil based Butyls and Acrylics will flex about 10% of their length. Add the movement of the joined materials and multiply by 10 for maximum joint width. 2. Polysulfides and Polyurethanes expand about 25%. Add the movement of the materials and multiply by 4 for joint width. 3. Low and medium modulus Silicones expand about 50%. Twice the material movement is a safe joint width. These guidelines are how to determine the joint size, but consideration must be given to surface preparation, adhesion, weather and UV resistance, and caulk shelf-life. To better explain, look at the FAILURE FAILURE O.K. BOND BREAKER TAPE O.K. FAILURE O.K. HOW TO MAKE A PROPER BOND diagrams. The three main causes of seal failure, regardless of proper width or flexibility are Adhesive Failure, Cohesive Failure, and Substrate Failure. 1. Adhesive Failure is the result of the caulk or sealant not sticking adequately to one of the substrates. This will happen if the movement exceeds the sealant's capability, if the surface isn't prepared properly, or if the bead isn't carefully placed. 2. Cohesive Failure is the result of the sealant itself failing to hold together. Splits, tears, or other ruptures can occur if the sealant dries out, is over-stretched, deteriorates due to time and weather, or is improperly mixed or has entrapped air. 3. Substrate Failure occurs most often when there is inadequate surface preparation. The surface that fails probably needed to be sealed, scraped, or otherwise prepared to accept the sealant selected. Application is probably the most important part. In fact, with all the quality caulks and sealants on the market today, the single most frequent cause of joint failure is in the application. Joints that are mismatched as to width of substrates, joints that are narrow or thin, joints that are deep or at an angle, or joints that are three-sided need extra care. The illustrations show how basic some of the problems are and how to correct them. It is important to remember that the purpose of caulks and sealants is not to substitute for structural joining. No caulk or sealant will "tie" two materials together. They will only "seal" the joint against air or moisture penetration. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 24 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

26 Drip Cap, Penetration Flashing WINDOW BRICK MOULD TRIM Header Flashing Overlaps Jamb Flashing Jamb Flashing CAULK GAP BRICK VENEER Window Installed With Fin Sill Flashing Building Paper Applied Over Sheathing Window Frame Jamb and Sill Flashing Overlaps Building Paper Flashing: The flashing configuration will depend on the surrounding construction. Where required, install the flashing before or after the new window is placed in the rough opening. Either way, the flashing must be installed in a manner to preclude entry of water into the wall cavity and the rough opening gap. In some cases, the window may have an integral flashing design. In other cases, flashing materials can be used in conjunction with the application of the finish siding. (See section on Penetration Flashing) Header Drip Cap: At the head of the window, a drip cap should be installed from under the sheathing paper at the header, to beyond the exterior face of the window. It should also extend past the trim at the sides of the window. Install a continuous piece of aluminum or galvanized flashing material onto the building sheathing, tucked under the sheathing paper, with a 90 degree bend to extend over the new window s header. A 1/4 return bend is applied down the face of the window s header. To finish, the siding veneer will overlap the header flashing. Penetration Flashing: Material for flashing shall be barrier coated reinforced flashing material and shall provide for 4-hour minimum protection from water penetration when tested in accordance with ASTM D-779. Flashing material shall carry continuous identification. Sealant used with penetration flashing techniques shall comply with Federal Spec TT-S Application: To flash against water penetration in a wood frame and sheathing application, a strip of approved flashing material, at least 9 wide, shall be applied in overlapping, weatherboard fashion (counter flashing), on all sides of the opening. The first strip is applied horizontally immediately underneath the sill - before the window is installed. It should be long enough to extend past each side of the window, and beyond the jamb flashing when it is applied. Fasten the top edge of the the sill flashing to the sill, but do not secure the the middle or lower edge so that building paper, later applied, may be slipped up and underneath the bottom of the applied sill flashing. Next cut and apply the two vertical jamb flashing segments, again making them 9 inches wide, and sufficiently long enough to extend above the (to be applied) header flashing, and to extend below the (already applied) sill flashing. The jamb flashings should overlap the applied sill flashing. Fasten only the top portion of the jamb flashing so that the lower section(s) will allow the to be applied building paper to be slipped up and underneath the jamb flashing ends as well as the sill flashing. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 25 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

27 Using approved sealant, apply a continuous bead to the underneath side of the nailing fin of the window or door unit. Press the window into the opening and secure the unit. Apply the top horizontal section of flashing last. Cut to the same 9 inch width, the header flashing overlaps and is sealed against the outer edge of the top nailing fin. The header flashing should extend beyond the outer edge of the vertical jamb flashing(s). Building paper underlayment is applied in a horizontal fashion, starting with the lower portion of the wall, and over-lapping the upper application by at least 2 inches. Be sure that the bottom portion is slipped up and under the bottom of the jamb flashing(s), and the sill strip flashing. For non-capped installations, sealant should be applied between the exterior window frame and the building face. It is recommended that the sealant be applied to the sheathing. For a brick veneer and a non-capped installation, apply sealant between the window capping and the brick. It is recommended to apply the sealant using backer rod as previously discussed. SEALING THE INTERIOR/EXTERIOR AGAINST AIR AND MOISTURE Exterior Molding Weather Sealed Capping: Wherever possible, cover and seal the existing opening frame, and/or the cavity created between the newly installed window and the building veneer with properly installed capping materials. Capped Installations should have the capping materials integrate or seal to the perimeter of the newly installed window or door in an air and watertight manner. Capping should be installed in such a manner to allow ventilation and moisture to escape from under the capping. For noncapped Installations, use suitable sealing materials and procedures to create a weather-tight seal between the newly installed window mainframe, and the opening into which it is installed. Sealing: Apply caulking where capping profiles abut one another, but do not overlap. Exterior Capping Interior Caulk Insulation Backer Rod Sealant Contractor's Tape Insulation Sealant Contractor's Tape NEW CONSTRUCTION FIN APPLICATION Air Seal Using Sealant, Backer Rod, and Contractor's Tape Air Seal Using Sealant and Contractor's Tape RETRO-FIT APPLICATION WITH EXTERIOR CAPPING The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 26 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

28 Capping and Vapor Barrier Continuity VAPOR BARRIER CONTINUITY Moisture-laden Air NOTE: Illustration is for reference only. Actual profile of window and installation conditions may vary. COMPLETE THE VAPOR BARRIER TO THE WINDOW Run a Caulk Bead Down the Window Frame to Seal the Vapor Barrier to the Rough Opening Framing Caulk Vapor Barrier Vapor Barriers are usually violated when new windows are installed. Moisture laden air is allowed into the cavity between the rough opening framing and the new window frame. Allowing moisture into the cavity can cause rot, mold or other degradation of the installation and lower the thermal performance of the new window unit. NOTE: Vapor Barriers for all climates other than defined as "Humid" by ASHRAE (the Coastal Regions of Louisiana, S. Carolina, Georgia, and Florida,), Vapor Barriers are recommended on the interior, or "warm side" of the building wall. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 27 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

29 Outside-In Installation of Box Frame Windows Box Frame Installation of vinyl replacement windows is based on "blindstop" techniques where the window is set into the opening from the inside of the house. Outside-In installation is accomplished from the outside the house and leaves the interior stops intact. Paring away the exterior blindstop, removing the parting stops and both sash provides a clear opening to install the window from the outside without disturbing the interior and without having to lift it over the stool to place it in the opening. This is an advanced technique that is somewhat more complicated than the traditional "blindstop" method. But its advantage lies in giving satisfactory results while probably being a more effective method for installing all vinyl replacement windows. But, it is important that the old window frame is adequately integrated into the water management system of the wall, or you should use frame out techniques. Outside-in installation will require access to the opening from outside the house, and though the window can be passed out of the opening from the inside before it is set in place, it may be an advisable and safer method to set the window in place from the outside. For openings above the ground floor, or for large or heavy windows, it is not recommended that outside-in installations be done by one person. Proper Flashing is recommended If you leave the old frame in, and install from the outside, it is best to flash the opening. Using liquid flashing on the sill, a pan can be created that will allow any water intrusion to drain to the outside. Using adhesive-backed applied flashing on the jambs and header, make sure the jamb overlaps the sill, and the header flashing overlaps the jambs. Making the Decision The decision to install a replacement window from the outside in, against the interior stops, by removing the exterior stops, requires more outside work, but this method of installation has many added benefits: 1. The interior stops don t need to be removed and replaced which makes a better looking installation since there is no damage to over-painted interior stops or moulding, etc. The job is cleaner and neater. 2. Since the exterior is to be re-finished in most instances, there is a work savings by not having to remove and replace the inside stops. 3. It is easier to brake and install capping to finish off the exterior of an opening without a blindstop than to cover an old blindstop. The capping looks better, too. 4. Most Replacement Windows without head expanders fit better against interior stops without the 1/8" offset of the material thickness of the expander. 5. The installation is more energy efficient and requires no insulation stuffed into the head expander.. 6. More glass and egress area is possible without a head expander. The window can be made taller. These advantages have to be weighed against the labor of chipping away the blindstop and shimming and squaring the opening from outside. The diagrams show that the exterior blindstop, when removed, clears the opening allowing a full height, full width window to be securely installed without the use of a head expander. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 28 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

30 How To Install from the Outside In 1. Installation procedures are basically the same as with "insideout" installations except that the exterior " blindstop" is chipped away with the flat wood chisel which will free the upper sash of the old window first. 2. The parting stop is removed as in other installations which will free the upper sash. 3. Windows with aluminum tracks are removed as a unit once the "blindstops" are removed. 4. The only other difference is that the interior stops are undisturbed and left intact. The new window will be applied against the interior stops in the same fashion as against the exterior blindstop. 5. Once the old pulleys, cords, and chains are removed, and the opening cleared of debris, caulk the interior stops. 6. Put the window outside the opening. Then, resting the bottom of the window on the sill, tilt the window back in toward the interior stops. This, in effect, places the window upright, against the interior stops, and seals the opening. 7. Temporarily secure the window. A sloped sill requires support for the outer edge of the window. A sill angle cut to the proper length can be used. Apply adhesive based caulk along the bottom surface of the sill angle to adhere it to the sill and slide it up under the bottom of the window until it is snug. 8. Once secured in the opening, the new window can be opened, and the screws installed to mount the window to the frame. Plumb and square the window in the opening. Shim as necessary using flat shim stock behind the mounting screws. 9. Capping made from coil stock, or new exterior moulding, can now be applied on the outside against the new window. Following the caulking guidelines, caulk the window and capping or moulding where they meet - to help secure it in the opening, and seal the installation against the weather. Typical Outside-In Installation Capping to Cover Chiseled Blindstop Chisel off Blindstop on top & sides Install the Sill Angle after the Window TIPS Chiseling the Blindstop, then removing the sash and parting stops - clears the opening to its full height. The new window can now be up to 3/4" taller because there's no need to clear the stool. Inside Stops Outside-In Installation can be accomplished from the inside of the home for window openings above ground level. Place the window outside the opening. With the sash partially open (keeping the installation clips or shipping band intact), the window can be brought into the opening for mounting. 1. To remove the Blindstop, score inside and outside of the stop with a razor knife - flush with the jambs of the old window. The blindstop actually goes behind the exterior brickmould casing. You want to be sure to just break-off the part of the blindstop that extends into the clear opening. 2. Use a chisel or pliers to break-off and neatly remove the blindstop. Make sure the remainder of the blindstop does not impede installation of the new window. 3. After removing the pulleys, or other obstructions in the opening, you may want to cap the opening to seal the jambs and header of the opening before installing the new window. 4. "F"-channels and other installation accessories can be used to mount the window as long as it is seated against the interior stops and stool, and is capped to seal the exterior. Inside Stops Stool The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 29 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

31 Installing Casement and Awning Windows Casement and Awning type windows are the most energy efficient operable windows available. They allow the least amount of air infiltration when closed, allow the most ventilation when opened, and can even allow ventilation during rain without letting water in. Because the screens are inside mounted, they stay cleaner, and are more easily removed and cleaned. And for extreme climates, glass storm panels can be mounted in the interior screen tracks. This is an inexpensive and effective way to get the added advantages of triple glazing. Security is improved with Casement and Awning windows. The roto -operators allow the window to be partially opened and resist additional forced opening. Egress (the code-required ability to exit sleeping areas during emergencies) is also improved. Opening the Casement/Awning type window creates an immediate clear emergency exit which is twice the area of a fully opened double-hung or slider. Maintenance and cleaning is somewhat simpler with Casement/Awning type windows because the exterior of the glass can be cleaned from inside the house without tilting or removing the sash. Because the sash just presses against the frame when closed, and then is released when opened, there is no wear and tear on the weather-stripping which prolongs the effectiveness of the weather-tight seal. Large Casement Windows, with the extreme weight of insulated glass panels, can be cumbersome. Care should be taken to avoid overly large units. The cantilevered weight can warp and deform the sash and hinge mechanisms causing the window to be out-of-square. If this occurs, the window will be harder to close, and may not seal as tightly. Vinyl Casements and Awnings are usually manufactured with fusion-welded frame and sash corners. The added strength resists deformation under load to keep the unit operating properly for the life of the window. Installation is Simple Vinyl Casement and Awning Windows can be installed like other vinyl replacement windows. They will fit into old wood double hung frames after the sash has been removed. They will fit into most all openings prepared for standard double hung vinyl replacement windows-even if these openings are prepared from old openings that contained aluminum or steel windows. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 30 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

32 As with any replacement, accurate measurement is the most important requirement to assure weathertight and trouble-free installation. Look over the instructions for measurement for the type of window that will be replaced and carefully measure and order the appropriate casement or awning window. Make note of any factory cut-backs and consider whether it is advisable to order exact sized or opening sized windows. There are three important considerations regarding Awning and Casement windows that make them different to install than double-hungs or sliders: 1. Casement and Awning windows do not use a head expander. 2. There may not be pre-drilled mounting holes in the window s side frames for screws to anchor the window to the jambs 3. There is no sloped sill or drainage accommodations These conditions do not prevent easy installation but they are conditions which change the basic way Casement and Awning windows are installed. Blind Stop Installation Conventional installation for replacement windows calls for Blindstop installation where the new window is installed in the opening against the blindstop, the window is screw-anchored to the sides of the opening, and the interior stops are re-applied. Because the Awning and Casement window styles operate with a swing-out mechanism, a head expander would get in the way of the swing-out sash and spoil the appearance of the window. This condition requires some fundamental changes in the installation procedure. It is necessary to measure accurately and order carefully. Remember, there is no head expander to take up the extra space in the opening. Normally Double Hung and Slider replacement windows are factory undercut 3/4-inch to 1-inch less than the opening height. This is done to accommodate the height of the stool (1/2 ) the new window must fit over as it is placed in the opening. Casements and Awnings still must be placed over the stool and set down on the sill. But, because there is no head expander supplied, the window will be routinely undercut at the factory approximately 1/4 less than the measured opening height. This causes the set-in process to become very snug and difficult. Careful measurement is extremely important so that the Casement or Awning factory manufactured height is at least1/4 smaller than the opening height, but no more than 3/8 smaller! If the height of the Casement/Awning window is smaller than 1/4 less than the opening height, it will not fit. If it is more than 3/8 less, the window will not fit the opening well enough to adequately seal out drafts and moisture. Therefore it becomes necessary to measure the height of the opening in three places: once at each side, and once in the middle. Caulking Caulking Provide the smallest of these three dimensions accurately to the nearest 1/16-inch. Measurement of the width is handled the same as double-hung or sliders.. Installation of the casement or awning window can proceed exactly as with a double-hung. In fact, substitution of casements or awning windows for a removed double-hung or slider can add a new architectural design look to any house. Installation Screw The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 31 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

33 Since they install basically the same, the final installation will look great and perform under most every circumstance. 1. Remove the old double-hung or slider the same as discussed in the basic installation chapter. 2. Remove any trace of sash cords, pulleys or balances so that there is a clean opening. 3. It is still advisable to use a sill angle to support the bottom of the Casement/Awning window. The sill must be supported if the window is being installed in an opening with a sloped sill. As long as the sill angle is mounted to the sill, 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch in from the inner edge of the blindstop, it will allow the Casement or Awning Window to rest on it and, when caulked, it will effectively block out air and moisture penetration. 4. Caulk the inner edge of the blindstop on the sides and top, and insert the Casement or Awning Window. 5. The window should be carefully shimmed to maintain level. It is important to apply the shims under the bottom corners of the window only. This will avoid bowing the frame which might interfere with the operation of the window. Shims should be minimal thickness,and non-tapered. 6. Once the window is leveled with shims under the bottom corners as needed, then the top left or right corners can be shimmed to plumb and square the window. To shim easily, keep the sash closed and locked. This will square the window and allow it to be be shimmed square in the frame. 7. Once the window is shimmed plumb and square, the supplied screws can be applied through the sides and top jambs. 8. The Interior stops can be re-applied and the window caulked as necessary. Mount the operating handle, and tighten the set screw. 9. The exterior of the opening (the brickmould casing and blindstop) can be re-painted to finish the exterior and make it weather tight. Make sure that beads of caulk are placed against the exterior of the sill, the sill angle, and where the window meets the blindstop. Removing the Stool if Necessary The stool rises about 1/2 above the sill. In order to install the window without removing the stool, the window might have to be made 3/4-7/8 less than the measured height of the opening. That might present problems sealing the opening to the weather, and make the finished installation look odd. If the properly sized window is too snug to fit over the stool, the window can be installed against the blindstops by removing the stool. The stool and Interior stops can be replaced with new ones, or the old ones re-applied after the window is installed. Clearance under the handle of the operator is sufficient to allow re-application of a stool. Outside In Installation If the height of the Casement/Awning Window type is too snug to properly place the window in the opening from inside the house without removing the stool, the window can be installed in the opening - outside-in. This is technique that will require access to the opening from outside the house. Though the window can be passed out of the opening from the inside before it is set in place, the easier, and safer method is to set the window in place from the outside. NOTE: Refer to "Outside-In Installation" Section in this book for specific instructions. Installation in Openings Made from Steel or Aluminum Windows For openings made when aluminum sliders or steel casement are removed, the installation of the vinyl Casement or Awning can be done from the inside. Using the old window frame as stops, or applying new stops of furring or 1" x 1" stock, the new window can be mounted against these stops. Caulk the blindstops before installing. The interior is trimmed with new casing and new interior stops. When the old opening is trimmed with casing and space permits, new interior stops are all that s necessary to trim and seal the opening. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 32 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

34 Installing Bay, Bow, and Garden Windows One of the pleasant options available when you replace your old windows is the opportunity to put in a more decorative window than the one you are removing. The most popular of the up-grade windows are the Bay, Bow, or Garden Window. Bay Window A Bay Window has three glass units - usually two operating on the side of one fixed in the center. The Bay Window can have double-hung or casement windows for the operating units and a picture window for the fixed center unit. The two operating units are usually at a 30 degree, 45 degree, or 90 degree angle to the wall of the house, and the center fixed unit is usually larger than the two flanking operating units. Bow Window A Bow Window has three or more, up to 5, glass units of the same size and two or more of them are operating units. In fact, all the units can be operating. Bow Window units form a gentle curve since each unit is usually only angled at 10 degrees from the adjacent window unit. Garden Window Garden Windows are similar to a 90 degree Bay Window but have a sloped roof of glass, and can have the front panel operate as well as the two side units. Each Bay and Bow Window is factory assembled with a structural, (1" or thicker) weathertight laminated headboard, seatboard, and side panels. Garden Windows have the seatboard and side panels but with the glass roof panel, there is no need for a headboard. Because they are factory pre-assembled, they can be mounted as a unit. However, they usually cannot be installed to the blindstop as in other vinyl window products. Installation can only be done by removing the old window frame along with the old sash. Once the old frame is removed, the Bay or Bow Window can be custom made to any size. It is structurally integrated, and can be placed in the opening without making any major changes to the opening. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 33 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

35 Projection & Seat Depth It is helpful to determine the distance a Bay or Bow Window will extend from the house and how deep the seat board will be. The following charts and illustrations will help you determine the approximate distances of projection and seatboard depth. They may vary by a small amount and are meant as an estimate only. Garden Window Projections Garden Windows are ordered from the factory to standards determined by the manufacturer. Check with the dealer for the projection and side dimensions for a given height and width. Bay Window Projections Bay Windows usually are three windows only. The configuration can consist of a picture window flanked by two operable double-hungs or casements, or the center unit can also be operable. Bay Windows come in two standard angles of 30 and 45. The following diagrams and chart show relative values of the dimensions for the assembled Bay Window assuming a standard Side Board Depth of 6" Mullion Width Projection Seat Center Angle of Depth Window Flanker Factor 30 degree 16" 8 3/4" 10 1/2" 34 1/2" 22" 11 1/2" 13 1/4" 44 3/4" 28" 14 1/2" 16 1/4" 55 1/4" 45 degree 16" 12 1/4" 14 1/4" 31" 22" 16 3/4" 18 1/2" 39 1/2" 28" 21" 22 3/4" 48" NOTE: Center Window Factor: Deduct Factor from total Bay Width to determine Center Window Size. Bow Window Projections The Standard Bow consists of 3, 4 or 5 lites, connected by 10 degree angle mullions. The opening widths are shown with approximate projections. Opening Number Approximate Width of Lites Projection & Seat Depth / / / / NOTE: Projections over 8 require Bracing, and a roof where soffits do not sufficiently cover the window. Seat Depth roughly equals Projection since the thickness of the window &frame is approximately the same as the standard wall depth of 4 1/2. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 34 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

36 Installing Bay or Bow Windows As with any replacement, accurate measurement is the key to a simple and successful installation. Refer to the measurement and specifying section to familiarize yourself with the parts and pieces that have to be removed. You must be able to measure the existing window and be able to add the proper inches to the height and width to accommodate the frame that must be removed, but is hidden beneath the trim. If you re not sure of the dimensions, don t be afraid to remove any trim when you measure. It is more prudent to be concerned with a properly installed and sealed new window, rather than with tampering with the old window. If the total old Bay or Bow Window needs to be removed, the old roof and outer lower support may also need to be replaced regardless of their condition. New, custom made Bay or Bow Windows may have a different angle or curve than the old bay or bow, and the roof and lower support would have to be rebuilt or replaced to match the shape of the new window and avoid leaks or an unsightly installation. Minor variances can be accommodated by quality capping and trim. Remember, the finished looks are as important as the structural support. Whenever possible, work with the factory and try to be able to make a custom window and save the work. If the home owner wants new trim outside, at the most offer it as an extra, because if the window fits the opening, new outside trim may not be necessary. Head Jack Stud HEIGHT WIDTH Inside Trim King Stud Follow the drawings and remove all parts of the old windows until you are down to the head and seat board. The existing header, sill, roof and support are all held fast to the wall. Removing the old window shouldn t interfere with any of these. The only item you may want to check would be the support since the new window might be heavier because of the insulated glass in the window units. Carefully removing the covering of the support structure will probably allow you to add additional support if necessary. The old covering can be re-applied and trimmed new to blend the new window to the existing siding. Custom Wall Depth Most bay, Bow, or Garden Windows have 6" standard side board depths. For most applications these are the correct dimensions. Sill Plate For some applications, however, the opening is extra deep requiring a custom side board depth. Cripple Stud Removing the Old Window There are two types of old windows that are usually replaced with a new Bay or Bow Window- a picture window/double hung or slider combination, or an old Bay or Bow Window. If the window to be replaced is a combination window, then it is best to remove the entire window, frame and all. If the window to be replaced is an old Bay or Bow Window, it might be easier to just remove the window parts and leave the old head and seat board. If the old head and seat boards are structurally sound, the new window might able to be installed to fit within these boards and limit the amount of disturbance you must make to the trim and siding around the old Bay or Bow Window. Using the diagrams for Siding and Brick, measure the opening depth. SIDING BRICK Measure Here Measure Here The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 35 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

37 Removing an existing combination window should clear the opening down to the header, sill, and jack studs, as shown. Carefully remove all the exterior trim, drip capping, and brick mould casing. If the house has been re-sided, remove the old J channel and replace with new so that it can butt-up to the new window correctly. Carefully measure the rough opening and compare it with the outside dimensions of the new Bay or Bow Window. Sometimes, the construction in an older home diverts from the expected. Large spaces were framed out and filled with insulation up to the old window. These spaces can be filled in with 2x4 stock, 5/4 stock, even 1 inch stock. The concern you should have is to make sure that the new window is structurally supported around the entire perimeter, and that the opening is not more than 1/4 to 1/2 larger than than the new window. It is always easier to make the opening smaller to fit the window. If the opening should be smaller than the window, it will probably not be more than 1/2 to 1 smaller. If Head Board Rough Header the opening is smaller in the width you can replace one of the jack studs with a 5/4 x 4 board and gain 3/8 more clearance. Replacing both jack studs with 5/4 stock opens the width 3/4. Before replacing the jack studs, prop up the header with a temporary brace. Cut and remove the jack stud carefully. Install a steel corner brace where the header meets the king stud. Cut and install the 5/4 stock to the right length, and nail securely. Install a steel corner brace where the jack stud meets the rough sill. If the jack studs are to be replaced on both sides, cut and install a new rough sill after the new jack studs are installed and the temporary header bracing is removed. If the opening is too small in height, the rough sill can be replaced with 5/4 stock which will increase the opening height 3/8. If that still isn t enough, then the cripple studs beneath the rough sill may have to be shortened. It is advisable not to tamper with the header because that involves major construction work. Installing the New Bay, Bow, or Garden Window Bay, Bow, and Garden Windows designed for replacement come as an integral unit which includes head and seat boards, all the windows, complete in a sealed unit ready for installation. If the top and bottom are not sealed with coated aluminum to weatherproof them, it is advisable to do so before installation. Even if you intend to cover the top and bottom, the extra step will prevent any deterioration of the unit from moisture buildup. Jamb Seat Board Siding Corner Bracing Support The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 36 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

38 Bay or Bow Window units are bulky and heavy and will require help in installation. Use at least one person for every three feet of width. Because they are built within 1/4 of the opening height, it is nearly impossible to install the units from the outside due to the height of the opening off the ground. It is simpler to insert the window into the house, right it to its proper up-right position, and install it slowly from the inside as shown. support brackets. If none are supplied with the unit, a pair can be cut from 2x12, or 2x10 pressure treated lumber. They can then be covered with prefinished aluminum capping stock or form the base for an enclosed support, as shown. First rest the outer edge of the projection on the sill, tilt the window unit up-right until the upper edge of the projection fits under the header. Maneuver the window unit outward until it is about halfway outside. The sill will now be holding the weight of the unit. Have one or two of your helpers go outside to help steady the window as you continue to push it through the opening. Shims Shims Temporary Support Making a Support for Bay, Bow, or Garden Windows Outside the house, set a knee brace or angled support under each mullion of the window. Place the long leg of the brace against the house,and drill pilot holes through the brace into cripple studs in the wall. You can identify the location of the cripple studs after you have removed the old window. Nails in the rough sill will show where they are. If there is no cripple stud in a proper position, move the brace left or right (within reason) until it lines up correctly. If there is no existing exterior support, use 2 x 4 studs as shown, Pre-cut to the anticipated length to support the outer edge of the projection as it is eased outside. Work the unit outside until the edges of the side boards, head board, and seat board are flush with the interior wall surface. Secure the outer edge of the projection with adequate support from the temporary braces. Using a level, be sure that the window sits plumb and square in the opening. Using 3 wood screws, countersunk in the sides, head, and seat, gently anchor the window unit in the opening using shims under each screw. Check the plumb, square, and level again and adjust as necessary. Then you can tighten the screws. Any Bay, Bow, or Garden Window with a projection over 8 outside the exterior siding of the house needs Stud Stud The idea is to support the window, under the mullions, as close as possible, yet maintain a balanced, symmetrical look to the braces. If they are to be covered, the symmetry is less important. Fasten the support bracket using a 3/8 lag bolt that is long enough to penetrate into the stud at least 2". Fasten the brace to the underside of the Bay or Bow unit with a wood screw of sufficient length to anchor into the seat board, but not puncture through. Contents Do not reproduce without permission 37 Contents 2008-Do not reproduce without permission

39 Using a Cable Support System Most manufacturers can supply a cable support system for Bay and Bow Windows to eliminate the need for knee brackets. Garden Windows, with glass roofs that cannot use a cable system, will still require knee brackets. If a cable support system is not available from the manufacturer, lumber and building materials dealers can usually supply a kit. The typical cable kit consists of two threaded pins, washers and nuts, cables, and cable anchor brackets. Cable support systems work easiest where there is an overhang (soffit or cantilevered floor) above the installed window. Follow the instructions supplied with the cable system. In the overhang are roof rafters or floor joists to which the cables are anchored. The cables run through the hollow mullions separating the windows in the unit, and the cables are finally anchored to the threaded pins which protrude through the bottom of the seat board on the window. The washer and nut are applied to the threaded pin. Each nut is tightened until the window unit is level and plumb. Once the window is level, the temporary bracing can be removed.the cable support system can be adjusted periodically to compensate for changes caused by temperature, humidity, or settling of the wall. Adding a Roof Garden Windows have their own integral roof with a glass panel. Bay and Bow Windows do not have a water-tight roof or headboard. If the new Window sits Soffit Coil Stock close to an existing overhang (cantilevered upper floor or soffitt) capping from pre-finished aluminum coil stock can be applied and blend the unit into the overhang as shown and no roof is needed. However, for installations where there is no overhang, a roof is necessary to avoid water leakage. The addition of a roof can be a decorative addition as well. There are pre-cut, or pre-fab roof kits available from various manufacturers. Most times, because the Bay or Bow Window is custom sized, pre-made roofs are not available, so it may be necessary to build your own. If you install a pre-cut roof, follow the manufacturer s instructions. Cable Supports For installations where there is no overhang, refer to the instructions to add a roof. The cable system can be substituted for the plumber's tape. The cable anchor is bolted to the stud in the wall under the roof, and the cable and pins are installed the same way. Remember, because of the angle of the cable, stress is placed at the point where the cable exits the top of the headboard. It is recommended to also use support angles below the seat board in installations where the cable cannot be hung from a rafter or joist above. To fabricate a roof for your new window begin by marking the siding in the shape of the roof to be added. Cut back the siding to the sheathing at least 12 inches above the top of the Bay, Bow, or Garden Window Unit. Using plumbers tape (metal strapping) attach the strap to a wall stud about 10 above the top of the window unit. Pull the strap out to the window corner, or a mullion and use a screw to anchor it to the head board. Do this on both sides. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 38 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

40 Depending on the projection, make a hip rafter out of 2x4's (when space is limited 5/4 stock or 1-1/4" thick wood is desirable) as shown. Install an end rafter on each side. Fasten hip shingles over the hip ridges, and trim the shingles to finish the roof. The sides of the unit, and the joint of the siding to the seat board should be sealed with moulding and caulk as necessary. As stated before, J channels can be applied and lapped to the rough opening prior to the installation, and caulk and necessary capping applied after the Bay, Bow, or Garden Window unit is mounted, braced, and the roof installed. If the new window is installed over an existing head and seat board, re-apply, or replace the channels, drip caps, and capping as necessary. Caulk at all joints. Finishing the Interior Once the new window has been supported and sealed on the exterior, the interior moulding can be applied. Fasten additional hip rafters, (about every 16 ) as necessary. Place a batt of insulation on the head board, and sheath the roof with 3/8" exterior plywood as shown. If desired, a preformed drip edge can be nailed to the sheathing before roof shingles are applied. It is imperative that step flashing be used under the siding, and strip flashing be used over the shingles to keep water from the headboard area. Use a roof sealant as necessary to seat the flashing. Install insulation into the space between the side boards, the head board, and the rough opening. Using casing, install the trim on all four sides as shown. Using wood putty, fill and sand the mounting screw holes in the side, head, and seat boards. Finish the headboard, seatboard, and side jambs with paint or stain. For Garden Windows, you might want to finish the seatboard with a plastic laminate to prevent water stains from the plants. 2" x 4" Hip Rafter Step Flashing Sheathing Insulation Plumbers Tape The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 39 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

41 Replacing Steel Windows Vinyl Windows used as Replacement Windows were designed to fit into old wood double hung frames with both sash removed. However, due to consistencies in wall thickness of most buildings, other window types (casement, sliders, and other metal windows) can be removed and the opening prepared to receive replacement windows designed to be installed against an exterior stop. It is important to measure accurately and order exact sizes to maximize fit and minimize trim work. As you read the following guidelines you can better judge how to specify windows for a particular installation and how to more accurately estimate labor. Replacing A Steel Window Note: These drawings are typical installations. Though not to exact scale, they are representative of most situations and are meant as a guide only. Steel windows were usually installed with screws into the frame around the opening under the sash of operating units or outside the glass of fixed units. Usually covered with putty, most can be located with a little work. Screw Operating Panels Fixed Panel Screw The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 40 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

42 Remove those you can and drill out those you can t. Once the screws are removed, the whole window unit can be removed and the opening prepared with capping and/or new blindstop of aluminum/vinyl or wood as described in aluminum window removal. Cover or caulk all cracks and holes. Install new window against outside blindstop formed by remaining frame pieces covered by the U cap. Remaining Steel Frame Recipro Saw Under frequent circumstances, however, old steel windows are too firmly embedded to be removed as described above. The first step, then, is to remove the window operating assemblies by unscrewing or cutting with recipro-saw or hacksaw. Duct Tape Once operating assemblies are removed, carefully remove or tape-protect all glass in the fixed panels. Using the recipro-saw or hacksaw, cut all remaining muntins and bottom metal frame leaving sides and top intact to serve as outside blindstops. There are a couple of ways to create "the blindstop" to mount the new window against. First is to leave the old frame intact. Using coil stock, shape a cap to fit over the old steel frame remaining in the opening. The U shaped cap (app. 1 x1 x1 ) will cover the frame and hide the old exterior putty or concrete embedment. Once caulked, the exterior will be neat, finished, and weathertight. The second option is to nail a 1" x 2" around the opening. This wood "blindstop" can be mounted with either the old steel frame completely removed or left intact. If the removal of the old frame creates a damaged area larger than the 1" x 2" can cover, a larger piece of wood can be used. If the opening is completely disrupted, a wood buck or frame of 1" x 4" can be attached on all four sides and then the 1" x 2" blindstop affixed. If the wood buck is necessary, don't measure for the new window until the wood buck is in place. Preextruded shapes or Snap Trim can make the job easier. Mount the angle of the snap trim Steel Frame Capping Caulk Capping with pop rivet or snap into accessory groove to the top of window. After placed in opening, mount angle to other sides. Cap and caulk additionally as necessary outside, and caulk and/or trim interior as required. NOTE: If you can remove the whole frame which is embedded in the masonry/brick, then you can use F Channel effectively to cover the opening and install the new window. See the section of F-Channel Installation elsewhere in this manual. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 41 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

43 Replacing Aluminum Windows Aluminum windows are usually secured by fasteners through the exterior flange into the plywood sheathing or wall studs. Also fasteners can be mounted through the jamb (in the sash channel) into the wooden frame around the opening. This method works well when the old window is carefully removed. NOTE: For an alternative method of replacing an aluminum or other finned window, go to Alternative Method of Replacing an Aluminum Window in this manual. Most aluminum window frames can be pried up and out of the opening without disturbing the siding or interior finish. Begin by removing the operating sash from the window. If there is a fixed panel, remove glass carefully. In windows with fixed panels, the glass may need to be broken to remove it. Use nylon filament tape in a criss-cross pattern to minimize shattering. Remove all visible screws in the window jambs. If this does not free the window, use a flat putty knife between the window frame and the internal jamb trim to locate the flange screws. Using a cold chisel or putty knife, attempt to shear all the mounting screws between the flange and the side of the house. Note: The drawings are typical installations. Though not to exact scale, they are representative of most situations and are meant as a guide only. Once all fasteners are sheared or weakened, carefully pry up the bottom frame using a block under the pry bar to protect the inside sill. If fasteners can t be sheared or weakened, careful prying can remove the window. Protect the opening as much as possible to minimize damage to siding or interior finish. Once the bottom frame is arched sufficiently, use a recipro-saw or hacksaw and cut the frame piece. After it is cut, gentle use of the pry bar can remove both sides and top of frame without disturbing the siding or interior jamb, head, or sill trim. Replacement Window Old Aluminum Window The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 42 Contents 2008-Do not reproduce without permission

44 Depending on the condition of the opening and the type of exterior trim or siding, it may be necessary to cap the opening to make a smooth transition of outer and inner surfaces in preparation for the new window. At least cover or caulk all cracks and holes. Wood furring can be used to fill gaps in between siding and interior walls and to provide structural support in the opening. Most openings will now be ready for the installation of exterior "blindstops". Aluminum or vinyl angles (1 x 3 ) or wood (1 x 1 or 1 x 2 ) can be used for stops and should be installed to the outside allowing for depth of replacement window (3 1/4 ). Install these stops on head and both jambs only. Sloped sills require the use of the provided sill angle. Flat sills should be caulked where the window meets the sill so as not to block drainage. Install new window against outside stop, caulk and trim interior and cap exterior as necessary. It may be wise to cap the furring or outside stop before installation to minimize after-installation trim work. Pre-extruded shapes or available Snap-Trim can make the job easier. Mount the angle of the snap trim with pop rivet to the top of window. After placed in opening, mount angle to other sides. Plumb and square window using snap-trim angle and pop rivet to window and screw trim angles to interior window opening, cap exterior and caulk. Once all trim angles are secure Snap Over trim and caulk. The use of Snap Trim eliminates the need of stops and shims. NOTE: When removing finned windows it is possible to tear the underlying building paper and weather barrier. If so, consider a Jump Frame installation described elsewhere in this manual. Three Installation Methods The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 43 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

45 Making the Choice: Leaving the Old Frame In Leaving the Old Frame in Place For Aluminum Windows that have been mounted to the underlying sheathing through a nailing fin, it is possible to leave the old frame in and not disturb the siding. First, you need to remove the operating sash and the fixed sash, Usually this is easy to do unless the fixed glass is glazed directly into the window framing. If so, tape the glass with duct tape to help hold the glass together in case you need to use force to get it out. Once the glass panels are safely removed, used a reciprocating saw to cut through the vertical meeting stile as close to the header and sill frame members as possible. Once the center meeting stile is removed, caulk the exterior of the left-in-place frame with quality sealant and place the wide flange window against the old frame and seat the sealant. Trim the interior as needed. Be sure to address where the flange of the new window sits against the old header to make sure water is diverted out and over the new window rather than behind it as it cascades down the side of the exterior wall. It is imperative that the top of the new window is sealed to prevent cascading water from penetrating behind the exterior flange and into the cavity between the window and the opening. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 44 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

46 Making the Choice: Taking the Old Frame Out Removing the Old Frame Depending on how the old window is finished on the outside, you can choose to remove the old frame completely versus leaving in the old frame. You start the same by removing the sash (operating and fixed) and cutting out the meeting stile. Once the meeting stile is removed, used the reciprocal saw to cut the sill and header part of the frame slightly to facilitate bending and collapsing it using a crow bar to pry it up. Use a wood block under the crowbar to minimize potential damage to the sill and header. Pry directly up and the frame will come out from between the siding and the sheathing. It won t take much effort to do so and that will tear the nailing fin slots away from the nails allowing the frame to collapse. Do it on the bottom, the sides and the header and you should be able to remove it completely. Take care to cover the gap and use slow expansion foam sealing tape and/or insulation to cover the gap before setting the new window in against the old framing members along the inside jambs, sill and header. Seal the new window along the outside, taking care to leave weep gaps in the sealant along the sill before setting new molding against the new window frame to fill out the space out to the siding. Carefully seal the outside to divert water away from the window rather than letting it get in behind the trim. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 45 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

47 Installing Vinyl Windows in Masonry Openings In most masonry applications, the old frame will remain and installation will be as described previously for wood or metal. In those instances where the windows to be replaced were installed in a block opening (block, brick or stone), the opening depth will be 6 to 9 and require a wood frame (wood buck) for installation. Also you must allow an additional 1 1/2 in the width and 3/4 in height when you measure. Order the smaller replacement window size to allow for the use of the wood frame to attach to the masonry opening. If the old window is a metal window cemented in, it will need to be cut out as you would do with a steel window. The installed wood buck will butt up against the remaining metal frame on the sides and top. Wood Window Stone Sill Concrete Block Flashing between window and buck FLASHING BETWEEN ROUGH OPENING AND EXTRUDED JAMB LINER CREATING DRIP CAP SIMILAR ON JAMBS Flashing under window is FLASHING BETWEEN ROUGH AND SILL CREATING SILL PAN sill pan If the old window is wood, it usually can be totally removed. Once the old window is removed, clean opening and remove old caulk. Using 3/4 plywood or 1 x 6 or 1 x 4 pine, install a wood frame across the top and on both sides using cut nails to anchor wood into the masonry. If desired, cover the wood buck with coil stock before placing in opening. Also, the exposed outside areas can be covered with wood trim or capping as necessary. Using Aluminum angle or wood molding (1 x 1 ) create outside blindstop along outside of wood frame leaving enough space (3 1/4 ) for replacement window. Install the window against the blindstop and trim outside and inside as necessary for completed job. Pre-extruded shapes or available Snap-Trim can make the job easier. Mount the angle of the snap trim with pop rivet to the top of window. After placed in opening, mount angle to other sides. The chief method of installation of new windows in a concrete block wall system is with a tapered wood buck. The windows and doors are of a "flange" design, screwed to the wood buck usually with a sheetrock interior return and a stucco wash finish on the outside. Where the upper stories are allowed to be frame, fin design windows are used. A. Flange Application: A flange allows the unit to be applied against a wood buck fastened to the rough opening. Flange mount is used most often with concrete block, such as CBS construction. The window is mounted with screws applied through the frame, into the buck. B. Fin Application: A nailing fin on a vinyl window is integrally affixed to the frame between the outer and the interior edge. Fin mounting is used in wood frame construction by nailing through the fin into the wood framing and sheathing. C. Flush Application: When the unit does not contain a flange or a fin, it can be mounted flush in the opening by using mounting screws through the jambs into the rough opening frame. F WOOD BUCK FLANGE EXTERIOR SHEATHING FIN ROUGH OPENING OPENING The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 46 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

48 Installing Vinyl Replacement Windows in Stucco When retrofitting Vinyl Replacement Windows in an existing stucco finished opening, it is important to remove the old metal window protrusions to a point where the old window is flush with the interior drywall return. The new window should be fitted with an exterior trim piece (either integral or snap-in) that extends over the existing exterior stucco finish. The illustration below shows the new window, placed in the old opening, and how it is to be caulked and sealed both inside and out. This is commonly called a jump frame installation. Remember the following: 1. The Frame should be anchored to structural framing with screws. 2. Screws shall be minimum of #8, non-corrosive. 3. Screws shall not be placed in fin. 4. Retrofit window frame shall not be attached to the old window frame. 5. Fin shall not be installed over lap siding. 6. Elastomeric (see caulking section) caulk shall be installed - Between the fin trim and exterior wall surface (stucco) and, - Around the perimeter of square-edged fins 7. The sealant bead shall be continuous except for small gap(s) near center of bottom fin (for drainage) 8. Unlike materials shall not be placed in contact with each other. When the old window contains a fin and is mounted under exterior casing, as is also common in stucco over wood construction, the exterior casing can be removed, and the old finned window removed without disturbing the weatherability of the underlying construction. Closeup of Flange Mounted Window in CBS Construction Resessed Install The alternative to Jump-Frame is to use snap trim to set window back, or use a flanged window, trimmed as needed, to rest against the old left-in-place window frame. This method mitigates water finding way behind the flange and into the opening. Vinyl Box Frame in Stucco with Snap-Trim Finned Window in Stucco with Frame In Note: Block to Level old Sill provides Support. It can be made out of lumber or cellular PVC Vinyl Replacement Window in a Jump Frame Stucco Application Jump-Frame Sill Details w/ applied leveling Block The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 47 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

49 Installing Basement Windows Basement Windows need replacing also and there are special vinyl windows made specifically for replacing old wooden or steel basement windows. Most old basement windows swing in - either down or up. The vinyl basement window is primarily a hopper window also with the hinge side down and the operating handle and locks on the top of the sash. In some instances, a small slider window can be used, as shown below. The basic type of vinyl basement window is built exactly like a regular double hung. It has a 3-1/4 frame and 3/4 to 7/8 insulated glass.it will install the same as a replacement window, i.e. against a blindstop. If the old window is a steel type, the instructions for removal and preparation of the opening found in the metal window section will be basically the same for a basement window. Removing Steel Basement Windows Look at the following section on installing windows in Masonry. It will give you some information on how the old window is anchored in the block or masonry foundation wall. Using this information you can either remove the old window and fashion the new wood buck as shown here, or you can mount the new window to the left-in-place old frame. For most wood windows installed directly to the masonry, the old window has to be removed completely. Once the old window is removed, a wood buck can be fashioned from 1 x 4 or 1 x 6 pine boards. These boards should be fastened to the masonry opening on all four sides with concrete nails or a power nailer. Be sure to mount them plumb and square in the opening. Before: Old Wood Basement Window A quality silicone sealer can seal where the wood buck meets the masonry. It is advisable to use treated lumber or use a sealer to keep the wood from rotting or deteriorating. Note: Once the wood buck is in position, you can then calculate the proper window size to purchase. Windows. Before: Old Steel Basement Window After: New Slider Basement Window After: New Vinyl Hopper Window The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 48 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

50 Basic Installation 1. As in most replacement situations, blind stops are recommended. This provides a firm surface to mount the window against, and assures weathertightness. Install blindstops of 1/2 x 3/4 stop material or 1/2 quarter-round moulding. Set the stops 1/2 from the outside edge of the installed buck. Use Flat Shims Wood Frame 1/2" x3/4 Blind Stops B A & B Must be Equal A 2. Caulk around the inside of the blindstops and lay a bead of caulk approximately in the middle of where the window will rest on the buck. 4. Check plumb and square with a level, and measure the diagonals to see if the window is square. Adjust shims if necessary. Place insulation between frame and opening. Caulk 3. Insert the locked window into the opening from inside the house. Expander Shim as necessary making sure to shim on both sides behind the installation screw holes.on top, shims must be placed directly over the locks to maintain proper clearance between header and sash to assure proper window operation. 5. Using 1/8 drill bit, drill pilot holes through the installation hole into the wood buck. Install the window using the screws provided in the hardware kit. 6. Put finishing trim around the inside of the window and caulk the perimeter. Finish off the wood and moulding with a quality stain or paint. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 49 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

51 Combining Two or More Windows A mulled unit is the combining of 2 or 3 (or more) units into one opening. Replacement windows can be mulled side by side (a picture window flanked by double hung on each side or two double hungs), or stacked on top of each other (a transom over a double hung or a picture window over an awning window). The most common mulled units are side by side. Basically, windows can be placed together in multiple units into any opening.in fact, the same installation procedures (blindstop installation or other techniques) will still apply. Mulled units, in essence, become a single unit that will install and mount similarly to single units. The mull systems effectively seal the joint. There are two common ways to join windows together. One uses an "H" mull which is provided by the manufacturer. This vinyl shape is made to slip over the frame of two windows as shown in the drawing. The other mull system is most commonly used in vinyl products that contain a "groove" in the outside and inside surfaces of the frame - on top, bottom, and both sides. A "U" shaped, snap-in mull is used to join the windows. The "U" mull is stronger structurally than the "H" mull, but both systems work well. How to Join with "H" Mulls If you desire to mull two or more units, order windows to include an H mullion for each joint and a continuous head expander, and sill angle long enough to fit the entire width of mulled unit. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 50 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

52 After the opening is prepared for the replacement windows, remove all sashes of the windows to be mulled. Note: Leave strap (if provided) on all windows until fully installed. Measure the opening height approximately where units are to be mulled. Cut H mullion 1/4 less than opening height. Then measure opening width at top and cut continuous head expander 1/8 less than the measured width. Also measure opening width at bottom and cut continuous sill angle 1/8 less than that width. Starting at the top of the replacement windows, slide the H mullion onto windows side by side. Liquid soap on inside of mullion can make this easier. Install the continuous head expander over top of the windows and H mullion. Head Expander structural situations. When stacking windows, or where you want the windows joined prior to installation, snap-in "U" Mulls work better than "H" mulls because they are structurally joined to both sides of the windows. Common to welded (fusion corner joints) vinyl windows and especially in awning and casement types, the frame - inside and outside on all perimeters - contains a groove that will accept a specially extruded "U" shaped mull that snaps in to "lock" the units together. If the windows you are installing have this groove, then it is preferable to use the "U" mull. It is important to note, however, that the weight of vinyl replacement windows with 3/4" insulated glass can be excessive and the mulls may not be strong enough to hold the weight if a multiple unit is to be lifted into an opening already mulled. The rule of two people per window also applies to multiple units. Therefore, be sure you have enough help when lifting mulled units into place. When stacking windows or mulling more than two units together, in most instances, it is easier and more efficient to mull the units prior to installation. Upper Window "H" Mullion Sill Angle Snap-in Mull Snap-in Mull Install a full-length sill angle if necessary and set windows into openings. Shimming the sides and aligning the windows carefully, try to keep the units tight to the H mullion for maximum support. Once mounted, check plumb and square. Then reinstall and align all the sashes. Complete the installation with caulk, capping and trim as necessary. Now you can remove any provided straps. To mull vertically (stacked units), remove any operating sash. Using the H mullion, cut it 1/8 less than opening width. Place the head expander if provided) on the top window, and mount the sill angle (if necessary) below the lower window. Carefully install mulled unit into opening. Re-install and align any removed sash. As before, remove any provided straps, and complete the installation with caulk, capping, and trim as necessary. How to Join with "U" Mulls It is possible to join and stack multiple windows to accommodate various architectural, design, and Lower Window However, when the combination unit will be unwieldy or extremely heavy, partial mulling can be done before installation, and the remaining units attached after they are placed in the opening. The available, U-shaped, snap mulls are applied on the inside and the outside of the multiple window units. Place the two windows together and press the legs of the mull down into the slots in the window frame. As shown in the diagram, the tabs on the mull legs snap into the slots holding the two windows firmly together. It is important that the mulls be accurately pre-trimmed to the proper length prior to use because they are difficult to remove. Since the mulls protrude from the face of the window frame, they should be trimmed to allow for any moulding or trim to be applied after installation. This will provide a neater, more easily weather-sealed job. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 51 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

53 Structural Mulls H Mulls and Snap Mulls are Mechanical Mulls, designed to join two or more windows where the windows do not need to be structural or support any weight. Stacking two windows, one on top of the other, where those windows can be anchored to the surrounding rough framing is acceptable for most residential applications where window pressures are not near hurricane or even tropical force. When windows (and doors) are joined in an area near the ocean or where high winds can be expected, a structural mull is required to meet most building codes. A Structural Mull is usally a piece of steel with legs at top and bottom that allow the mull to be securely fastened to the header and sill - or even to the jambs where a horizontal mull is required. Then the window units are anchored to the mull with high performance fasteners so that the finished assembly is a structural unit, secured to the surroounding framing and forming a weather and wind resistant fenestration unit. Where codes demand it, the structural mull is used in testing of the window and door units themselves in order ot get a rating which then is used to determine compliance with the required performance for the climate and region. When it is necessary to install window and door assemblies this way, there are usually engineering drawings showing the proper mull size and anchoring details of both the mull(s) and the window or door units. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 52 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

54 Fastening the Mechanical H Mull 1. Begin by removing the sashes and any foam insulation, jamb adjusters by backing out the screw for the adjuster. 2. Cut a piece of plywood, exterior grade preferably, to fasten to one window jamb. Take care to align to the top and bottom. Secure with three #8x1/2 Philips Head Pan Screws. Repeat this step on the other window. 3. Apply a bead of caulk sealant along the interior edges of the H Mullion legs. 4. Place the H Mullion on to the jamb of the first windows and align the Mull with the top and bottom of the window. 5. Nest the second window into the H Mullion and squeeze the windows together making the frames seated completely into the Mull. Use a putty knife to help slip the Mull over the two windows. 6. Stand the assembly upright and check the alignment. If necessary use a rubber mallet to align. 7. Starting with the upper installation holes, screw the windows into the H Mullion using #8 x 1-5/8 Phips Pan Head Screws. 8. Repeat by anchoring through the lower installation hole. Do this with both windows, angling both screws so as not to interfere with each other. 9. Using Silicone Sealant, seal the open cavities completely on both ends of the H Mullion so there are no voids where water can penetrate. 10. Place two metal straps along the top of the Mulled Unit and use #8x1/2 Philips Pan Head Screws to secure the straps. Repeat on bottom of the Mulled Unit. 11. Re-install the upper and lower sash of each window. If a Head Expander and Sill Angle are needed, they can span both windows. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 53 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

55 Installing Vinyl Windows in New Construction Most manufacturers of vinyl windows supply an optional nailing fin that can be easily attached to the perimeter of the window on all four sides. There are also integral nailing fins that are permanently part of the frame of the vinyl window. These integral fins are most commonly available on single-hung and single-slider windows Vinyl Windows with nailing fin allow them to be installed in a conventional manner for new construction applications. It is also convenient to use a nailing fin if the old window to be replaced does not have a 3-1/4" sash track to allow standard blindstop installation. The old window can be removed completely, and a custom vinyl window with nailing fin can be ordered to fit exactly. This will reduce any disturbance to the interior walls, or exterior siding. To measure for such an installation, follow the measuring instructions for Bay and Bow Windows. This procedure will give you the proper tip-to-tip dimensions of the new window. Rough Header King Stud Installation Instructions for New Construction These instructions are meant as a guide only. Code compliance and architectural design may create situations that differ from the illustrations. Some modification may be required, but these instructions will cover the basic elements of most installations. Cripple Studs Rough Sill Jack Stud If there is no existing rough opening, construct an opening like Figure 1, 1/2 larger in height and width than the window to be used. If there is an existing rough opening, order a window 1/2 smaller in height and width. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 54 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

56 The rough opening should look similar to Figure 1. No window should be installed without a proper header and sill support. All framing should be in compliance with local codes. Figure 2 shows the completed rough opening. Sheathing can be plywood, or structural insulation board. The important consideration is that the window can be nailed through the sheathing material to solid framing - the header, rough sill, and jack studs. It is advisable to staple building paper over the edges of the rough opening as shown. Put the bottom strip on first, and the sides next. The top strip is mounted after the window is installed and overlaps the top nailing flange. This will direct water away from the window opening. Interior Trim Though there are many ways to trim-out the interior of the new Vinyl Window, the two most popular ways are Wood Jamb/Trim, & Casing; and Full Sheetrock Return on all 4 sides. Even with the sheetrock return, a wood stool is recommended to facilitate cleaning, and minimize marks. FIG 3 FIG 4 Building Paper Sheathing Once the bottom and side strips of building paper are mounted, run a bead of caulk around the inside of the fin. Place the window in the opening with the flanges tight against the opening. Position the window 1/8 from the top, and 3/8 from the bottom, and center the window side to side. This will allow the interior trim to be installed without impeding the operation of the window. Nail across the top first (in every other slot), making sure the window-top is level. This procedure will in effect hang the window and assure that it is both level and plumb. Re-check the level and plumb, and nail the sides (in every other slot) from the top down. Do not nail the flange tight. Like siding, nailing should be just tight enough to hold the window, but not impede movement of the structure underneath during environmentally caused expansion and contraction. Staple the top strip of building paper in place if needed. When siding and/or trim is installed, it should be fitted over the nailing flange using the proper dripcaps, J-channels, or other flashing materials. WOOD TRIM SHEETROCK TRIM Figure 3 details typical, conventional wood trim - including wood jambs, wood stool, and clamshell or colonial casing and apron. Using standard 3/4 or 5/4 wood stock, butt the stool and jamb to the window, and then the sheetrock can be butted to the jamb and stool and covered as shown. Figure 4 details a typical sheetrock return. Be careful to trim the sheetrock square as it will butt against the window. If possible use the outside, wrapped, edges of the sheet to keep the joint neat. Using metal corner bead, cover the wall and jamb/sill joints and spackle as necessary. It is also desirable to install a 3/4 wood stool over the sheetrock sill and use casing for an apron below. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 55 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

57 Sill Pans and Flashing Step 1: Using Adhesive-backed Flashing Material (Vycor or equal) place flashing over rough sill extending 5 inches down the front, and 4 inches up each side. Be careful not to tear or buckle the membrane. Step 3: Using adhesive-backed flashing material (Vycor or equal) place flashing around each jamb, overlapping the sill flashing. Place adhesive-backed flashing across the header extending up and over the jamb flashing. Step 1 Step 3 Step 2: Assemble Sill Pan (Jam-Sill or equal) to fit between the jambs and set on top of the sill. Do not anchor the sill pan to the rough sill with fasteners as doing so will create a leak path. Fix the sill pan to each jamb using the head of a roofing nail, as shown below. Step 2 Alternate 1: If house wrap has been applied to the wall prior to beginning the window or door installation, cut the house wrap in such a way to be able to fold it back, and tape it out of the way. Flashing materials must adhere directly to the sheathing for maximum bond. If adhered to housewrap, flashing may direct water under the wrap and into the cavity between the window or door and the rough opening. Alternate 1 Alternate 2 and 3: If the house wrap has been moved aside, it can now be un-taped and placed over the second layer of self-adhesive flashing to complete the installation. Again, take care to leave the bottom free for drainage into the drainage plane. Alternate 2 Alternate 3 The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 56 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

58 Installing Curved and Angled Windows Vinyl Windows are made in more than just rectangular configuration. There are many choices of architectural shapes - round, half-round, quarterround, ovals, hexagons, octagons, trapezoids, and triangles. In fact, almost any shape can be ordered. These odd shapes can add design flexibility to a replacement or remodeling project, and they are especially useful because they can fit into the most unlikely places such as cramped stairwells and shallow attics. These window types generally don t have operating sash and they do not provide ventilation, but besides the decorative addition they make when used in combination with other windows, these special shapes, when used alone, can provide light in dark places, and their shapes will also add charm or traditional elegance. Because they are shaped differently than rectangular windows, special architectural shapes require some modification to standard installation instructions. The following tips and illustrations are meant as guides to determine the best way to proceed. Once you have decided on the type of shape you want, consult your dealer or manufacturer for specific recommendations and available options for installation. Installing Special Shapes Special Shapes can be installed in two basic ways. If these shapes are ordered with a conventional doublehung, slider, or casement/awning type window, it may be possible to install them mulled together with the rectangular window. The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 57 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

59 If the special shape is ordered to be installed alone, then modified, conventional framing methods need to be used. Because of the variety of shapes that are possible, standardized instructions are not really possible, or practical to follow. Circular windows are braced differently than oval windows, and angular windows are braced a third way. In fact, the only basic, common feature with special shapes is the need for jamb extensions to fit them to the interior wall. If these extensions must be cut from wallboard or wood it will require more skill than most amateurs have. The good news is that some manufacturers make pre-formed jamb extensions that snap-in to the groove provided for the snap-in mull strips. Using a hair dryer to warm the vinyl, this extension system can be bent to accommodate curved windows as well. 1. Special shapes, whether mulled or separate, must be installed in a clear opening with the old window (sash and frame) completely removed. 2. Integral fin should be used on special shapes as a nailing anchor and to create a self-flashing installation. 3. All windows, rectangular, curved, or otherwise require a proper sized header above the window to support the studs above. 4. All odd-shaped windows require similar studding to a conventional rectangular window opening. 5. Flashing, formed by shaping aluminum or vinyl J-channel (fan-cut for curved windows) should be installed above all windows. Angled Support Header King Stud Jack Stud Shim The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 58 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

60 Frame-Out, Kerfed Brickmold Method for Old Wood, Metal or Vinyl Finned Windows Care always needs to be taken to avoid damaging the weather barrier under the old siding. Prying out old windows can damage the building paper and substrate. These methods allow proper removal of the old window and proper installation and re-establishment of the weather barrier avoiding leaks and potential moisture damage under the siding. Both old wood windows and old aluminum sliders, often installed in a structure with wood or other lapped siding, or even stucco should be replaced by removing the entire old window down to the rough opening. As shown in the figure at right, the old wood window is anchored to the structure by nails through the brick mould casing. The old aluminum window is anchored by nailing through the fin, and then having the fin covered by the siding or wood casing. Using a new construction vinyl window (with an integral nailing fin), this alternative method of installation makes use of a wood block (preferably cedar), typically 1-1/2 by 1-1/2 however, any size that makes the job work well is what to choose.. This block is attached to the integral nailing fin around the perimeter of the vinyl window frame. This block, in essence, replaces the brick mould casing of the old wood window, or the nailing fin and wood casing of the old aluminum window. Care needs to be taken to make sure that the new window with the cedar blocking fills the same opening dimensions of the old window that is removed. If necessary, cut back the siding for a more perfect fit, but if there is sufficient room, accurate measurement prior to ordering the replacement vinyl window may avoid cutting back any siding. It is also important to make sure that there is a proper drip cap along the header of the vinyl window with the blocking and that the entire perimeter of the new installation is properly caulked to avoid water penetration. Installations using the rough framing can be done from either the inside or the outside of the home, but the blocking method must be done from the exterior. Cut back the siding to install the blocked window. 1. Draw a line on the siding, 1-1/2 from the edge of the rough opening at the head, sill and both jambs. This will be the edge that the blocking will butt up against. 2. Use a circular saw or Window Fitter oscillating tool to cut along the line (to cut through the siding, but not the sheathing or studs below the sheathing) and remove the siding pieces within the cut. Under some circumstances, the existing window could have been removed. If the existing window is still in place, and there is no casing covering the window nailing fin, removal of 1-1/2 of siding should expose the nailing fin of the old window allowing it to be removed. 3. Measure the depth of the rough opening pocket from the edge of the interior trim (extension jambs or drywall return) to the outside edge of the wall substrate (sheathing or similar) against which the blocking will be seated. The common measurement will be between 3/4 to 1. Whatever the dimension, it is the measurement that will determine the location of the slot to be cut in the blocking. Old Wood Window Brickmold Casing Exterior Wood Casing Old Aluminum Window Nailing Fin The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 59 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

61 The measurement from the nailing fin to the exterior edge of the new window frame is typically 1-1/2. If the measurement of the pocket depth (the interior trim to the edge of the substrate) is 3/4, then the interior edge of the slot in the blocking will be cut at 3/4. 4. Measure the width and height of the replacement window. Because you will be cutting 45 degree cuts on each end, add at least 5 to the width and height measurements. Cut a length of the 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 blocking to a length(s) that will allow you to cut the individual blocking for the new window. 5. Cut the slot in the blocking on a table saw. Use a thin kerf blade so that the block fits snugly on the nailing fin of the new window. Set the saw blade for the required measurement away from the rip fence. Then set the saw blade height slightly taller then the depth of the nailing fin (typically 1-1/16 will suffice). 6. Once the slots are cut, cut the blocking to length using a 45 degree miter cut, as shown. Excluding the nailing fin, measure the new window frame to establish the lengths needed for the head, jambs and sill blocking. For each of the blocking pieces, measure from the shorter end of the initial miter to what will be the shorter end of the opposite miter cut. Be careful. Better to be 1/16 longer than necessary, than 1/16 shorter. Also take care that the header and sill pieces, and the two jamb pieces are identical in length. 7. Apply a thin bead of caulk the nailing fin on the exterior side. Place the blocking over over the nailing fins of the head, sill and jambs making sure the interior side of the blocking is facing the interior side of the window on all four sides. 8. Butt the edges of the blocking against the window frame, and bring the mitered ends together. Seal the entire gap between the mitered ends with caulking. Nail the ends of the blocking together (as shown). The window is ready to install. 9. Run a continuous bead of caulking around the perimeter of the rough opening where the blocking will seat against it. 10. The new installation should have a drip cap. If the old drip cap is in place, remove it and replace it with a newly prepared cap that will extend out, over the header blocking. The drip cap can be fashioned using cap stock and a metal brake. 11. Place the window in the opening. Press tightly against the caulk bead to assure a good seal. If measurements were accurate, the interior edge of the new window will butt up against the interior trim (drywall return or jamb extensions). You can use new J Channel as long as you are able to fit it under the trimmed siding in proper fashion for proper drainage and in accordance with good flashing techniques. 12. Square and plumb the window, and check the sash reveal. 13. Fasten the window to the rough opening through the blocking using #16 stainless steel or corrosion resistant finishing nails. Nails should be placed within 4 from each corner and spaced no greater than 14 apart. Drill pilot holes through blocking, if necessary. 14. Run a continuous bead of caulk around the perimeter of the window, between the blocking and the existing siding, as shown. Also caulk along the joint of the mitered corners. 15. Run a continuous bead of caulk around the window where the frame meets the blocking. 16. Caulk the interior where the new window meets the interior extension jamb or drywall return, and tool the bead smooth. Finish the blocking on the outside to match the existing siding. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 60 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

62 F-Channel Installation Proper installation of replacement windows requires that if the old opening (with or without the old frame) be sealed in such a way that any of the degradation or irregularities in the old frame are covered and the new installation is adequately integrated with the water management system of the wall. Capping F-Channel Legs BEFORE In order to accomplish this, it is also important that whatever is done to the old opening melds with the new window to prevent water, moisture and air infiltration while allowing the opening to breathe, to avoid the trapping of condensation in the old cavity. When removing the old window, whether it is the old sash of a double hung, or the removal of a finmounted sliding window, or even an embedded steel casement window. often the opening needs some modification to cover where the old window parts were, and/or to adequately prepare the opening for a properly installed new window. Capping F-Channel Installation can be very effective where the old opening is degraded. A perfect alternative installation method involves an extruded piece called an F-Channel. This extruded piece has two legs which fit precisely over the frame of the new vinyl window, and the width of the F-Channel extends past the second leg to cover the full 3-1/2 opening, as shown in the diagrams. For sash replacement, the two sash and parting stops are removed. The exterior blind stop is cut off as in an outside-in installation (described elsewhere in this book). The F-Channel is affixed to the old opening on the sides and top and the new window is snapped-in the channels from the outside. While the fit should be fine, if there is extra play, the window can be centered and anchored to the F-Channels using pop rivets. If the F Channel is made with a Nailing Fin, it can be slipped up under old siding, and with the F Channel turned upside down, and one leg trimmed off, the fin can be modified to create a level sill while providing a functional sill pan for drainage. Perhaps the best part of this method of installation is that the capping can be placed over the extended portion of the F-Channel as shown. This protects the installation from water penetration without excessive caulking, allowing the opening to breathe. This is important as warm moist air on the interior migrates towards the outside during colder exterior temperatures, and can condense on the colder outer surfaces Trimmed Blindstop Fin can be used to level Channel for use as Sill Pan with one leg trimmed Caulk, Seal and Insulate as Necessary The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 61 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

63 of the window and especially the aluminum capping. This condensate, if trapped, can cause mold, mildew and rotting within the cavity. An installation that breathes allows evaporation of the moisture-laden air reducing the chance of this damaging condensation. There are other advantages to this method. Old pulley holes, the space vacated by the parting stops, and other problems are covered by the F Channel. The insulation, often used in the cavity, now fills the space between the window frame and the F-Channel. The F-Channel, when installed, can be anchored using a sealer caulk, and (if necessary) large head roofing nails to hold it in place. The F-Channel on the sides of the opening should be notched to match with the legs of the header channel. If installed in an opening with a sloped sill, the bottoms of the side channels should be trimmed accordingly. The opening left after old aluminum fin-mounted windows are removed can be similarly covered with F-Channels, effecting a better sealed finished installation, and eliminating the need for applied pieces to act as a blindstop. Remove Old Window Shear off Blindstop Install F-Channel on Sides and Header. Old Steel Window in Brick Opening Cap Opening Finished Installation using F-Channel. AFTER New Vinyl Window Installed with F-Channel NOTCH FOR BEST FIT The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 62 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

64 Recommended Application of Slow-expansion Weather-resistant Foam Tape for Windows and Doors Step 1: Seal the sill area of the block opening to prepare for adhesive-backed flashing Step 3: Cut 1.5 inch square neoprene or similar blocks, 1/2 inch high. Using spot of sealant underneath to fix to the sill flashing, place on sill. Using the measured width of the sill, place none block about 20% in from left, and the other 20% in from the right. Using a level, confirm the level heights of the blocks. Step 1 Step 3 Step 2: Roll out Adhesivebacked Flashing and apply to sill and up minimum of 4 inches on each side. Step 4: Unroll a length of Acrylic impregnated slow expansion foam tape to the width of the sill. Peel off the backing exposing the sticky surface. Cut out squares to go over the neoprene blocks. Adhere the Acrylic impregnated slow expansion foam tape to the in-place flashing Step 2 Step 4 The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 63 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

65 Step 5: Stick lengths of impregnated slow expansion foam tape to the two jambs and across the head of the window. Extend the Acrylic impregnated slow expansion foam tape on the head about 1 inch longer to accommodate shrinkage. Fold down the overlap to prepare for inserting the window. Step 5 Step 6: Insert the window into the opening taking care to be sure the Acrylic impregnated slow expansion foam tape is not disrupted. Use a flat blade putty knife to adjust foam tape to avoid any disruption. Using a screwdriver, lift up the overlapped foam tape on the header to allow proper seating of the joint during expansion. Step 6 The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 64 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

66 Step 7: Using proper ShimCon or equal anchors, set jamb anchors and header anchors. Adjust anchors to shim to plumb and level. Anchor the opposite jamb and re-check plumb and square. Adjust as necessary. Step 7 Step 8: Using exterior snap trim or other finish trim, cover the exposed Acrylic impregnated slow expansion foam tape on four sides. Caulk joint between trim and window as necessary. There is no need to caulk/seal the joint between the slow expansion foam tape and the block opening as the stucco finish will provide the proper joint finish. Step 8 The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 65 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

67 Installing Patio or Entry Doors Installing Patio Doors or Entry Doors is similar to installing windows. In New Construction, preparation of the opening with proper flashing is key to preventing leaks and preserving energy performance. Installing doors in replacement applications is as complicated as replacing windows for the simple reason the removal of the old door is as destructive to the water management system as with any window tearout. There are three considerations with doors that require effort in the preparation to be sure that the resulting installation (new construction or replacement) allows the door to operate properly and be weather tight: 1. Level Sill. The biggest single problem source for poorly operating doors - either rolling or hinged - is an unlevel sill. As the artwork shows, a crown, a bow or a sill with one side higher than the other, will not allow the interlocks and weather stripping to engage as designed. If you start with a level sill, good results from the installation are all but assured. If you don t, then bad results will surely follow. 2. Weather resistant Sill. In new construction, establishing a level and properly draining sill that expels water and moisture that makes its way behind the weather CROWN IN SILL BOW IN SILL UNLEVEL SILL The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 66 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

68 barrier and siding is key. In replacement, as the photos illustrate, removing an old door can either destroy the integrity of the old sill, or expose the fact that there was no integrity in the first place. Filling the old sub sill with mortar or even the same thin set as used with tiling floors, can create the sealed, level and strong sub sill a successful door installation requires. 3. Proper Sill Pan/Drainage. In heavy winds, water can literally blow under the door and up and over the back part of the door s operating track. In wind above 150 mph the water can climb upwards of 2 inches and over the sill into the room. The first inclination is to seal the front of the operating track to prevent water from penetrating under the track and into the room. Doing so prevents another key function of the sill under the track - drainage. Proper technique requires a sill pan (see illustrations) to be placed under the track to allow water than may get into and round the opening to drain out. Creating the proper balance between protection from wind blown rain and sill drainage is difficult, but necessary. Some manufacturers make a two piece sill/track to accomplish the goal, but in most instances sealing the the front edge of the track, but leaving two 2-inch gaps in the seal, will protect against the window blown water, but allow drainage from the sill pan when necessary. Judgement can also be used considering location. If the doors are set back on a large porch, there is less worry about window driven rain. If the doors are near a corner of a balcony on a high floor, there is more concern for blocking wind-driven rain. Summary: Make the sill smooth and level, use a sill pan and use clips/straps or conventional installation as shown in the window section. Be as mindful of flashing, sealing, and mounting hardware as for window products. Finally, as with most door products, be sure to follow manufacturers instructions as they have most likely designed their sill and track systems to comply with the requirements of the door s application. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 67 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

69 Different Frame Types There are three basic types of frame assemblies in order to mount doors to various types of wall construction. While the Brickmould Frame and the Flange Frame are designed to have the front of the frame rest outside the wall and cavity, the Flush Mount (often called Pocket Frame) where the frame sits inside the cavity, is commonly used, as well. The Flush Mount is the preferred choice for replacement applications and for mounting on wood surrounds or buck installation. Small frontal flanges are used in masonry applications. Check the factory recommended frame for the intended application. The details shown on these pages and in the basic installation details that follow are common. Situations may vary, and frame components may vary as well. The illustrations below don t have exterior siding or other finish applied. Flange Mount. Clad Wood Doors and Most Aluminum Sliding Doors have a frontal flange that rests against the exterior. When the flange projects 1-1/2 out from the frame, it is usually a nailing flange. If it projects less than 1. it is a flange to help establish a water barrier on the outside. The flange can be set back, to allow siding to be installed flush to the exterior face of the door. Flush Mount When there is no Brickmould or Flange/Fin, the door is usually set into a wood surround, or buck. This is common for replacement wood doors, and aluminum sliding patio doors. Brickmould Most Wood. Fiber Glass, and even Steel Entry Doors have a brickmould exterior. The Brickmould trim acts as a mounting flange and is how the door rests and seals against the exterior face of the wall. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 68 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

70 Basic Installation Step 1 Standard construction steps apply. Proper framing and sheathing is also assumed as shown. The sill is shown as even with the deck perhaps the toughest to make level as required for proper installation. Drip sill (set down 1/2 to 3/4 is better because it s easier make level after the deck is built, and to accommodate the sill pan. Drop sills are more effective at keeping water from blowing under the doors, as well. These instructions are basic for either approach. Step 2 After the sheathing is applied to the wall, install 9 wide, flexible flashing on the sill, overlapping the sill plate, and up the jambs, 6 to 9 high. Place a bead of caulk/sealant along the top of the flashing to help secure the sill pan. Prepare metal sill pan, or use a pre-manufactured plastic pan and place on top of the flashing tight between the jambs with the lip of the sill pan against the sill plate. If shims are needed, use flat shims of 1/8 or less. Make sure they lie in a bead of caulk/sealant. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 69 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

71 Basic Installation Step 3 When securing the pan in the opening, do not puncture with nails as this would be a possible source of water instruction. Use a wide headed nail (like a roofing nail) to secure the top of the side dam to the jamb framing, as shown. Place flexible flashing down each jamb over the sheathing allowing the flashing to wrap inward to cover the framing, as well. The jamb flashing should be long enough to overlap the side dams of the pan. Place flexible flashing across top of opening, overlapping the jamb flashing, and wrapping under to cover the header of the rough opening framing. Step 4 Place Weather Resistive Barrier (WRB) over face of wall. Cut WRB to opening height and width, as shown. Take care when affixing the WRB to the wall not to rip or tear it, especially near the flashing at the jambs and header. This will limit any potential water penetration through the WRB. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 70 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

72 Basic Installation Step 5 Cute WRB at corners to allow folding back and taping about 6, exposing the flashing as shown. Place a bead of caulk down the jamb face and across the face of the header to allow the mounting flange of the door to rest against this sealant. Step 6 Place mounting flange of door against the caulk/sealant as the door is placed in the opening. Do not put sealant across the sill pan because the pan needs to able to drain outward any wanter that gets into the cavity. If the door is being mounted through the flange/fin, use Simplex nails or similar to be sure that the flange/fin can expand and contract without disturbing the flashing or the seal. Place drip cap over the top of the door to direct water out to the sides. If possible, bend the horizontal member of the cap down at both jambs as shown. Simplex Cap Nails OVER fin allows frame to move better than nails through mounting slots The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 71 Contents Do not reproduce without permission Door Door M M

73 Basic Installation Step 7 Unfold the Header WRB and lap over the drip cap as shown. Tape the corner cuts with builders tape to make sure there is continuity of the WRB over the flashing. If your door is going to be exposed to direct rainwater and wind, it would be best to use a second flexible flashing seal over the WRB which is over the first layer of flexible flashing. This second layer of flashing should be lapped to direct water down and out of the wall. If the door is above grade, you may want to install a weep screed along the sill, between the lip of the sill pan and the exterior finish, as shown. This will make sure any water underneath the sill pan can drain as well. Brickmould Installation Step 7A The brickmould trim outside many entry doors acts like a mounting flange, but it s dimensions make for some differences in installation. Follow Steps 1 through 5. Place brickmould trimmed door into opening with the brickmould trim against the wall, which has caulk over the flexible flashing. Anchor door as instructed by the manufacturer s instructions. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 72 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

74 Brickmould Installation Step 7B Place drip cap across the header of the brickmould trim, making sure it extends out from the sides at least 1 to allow water to drain away and down. Drip cap Door Moulding Step 7C Unfold the WRB on the jams, Fold back against the sheathing, allowing the WRB to fold outward from the joint where the wall and the brickmould meet, as shown. If siding, and/or J channel is to be used against the brickmould trim, trim the WRB back to allow a bead of finish caulk to seal the joint between the J Channel or siding and the brickmould. Unfolding the WRB along the top to go over the vertical leg of the drip cap, and bend out to accommodate the J Channel and/or siding is the same as for the jambs. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 73 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

75 Installing Replacement Doors The key to replacing an old door with a new, energy efficient, weather-resistant door is to remove the old door and prepare the opening to be plumb, square, level and with a firm surrounding frame that you can properly mount the new to. Look through this book at both the window and the door installations to match your wall construction. Once you have determined what the wall construction is, remove the old door as carefully as possible to maintain the integrity of the structural surround and the weather barrier continuity. When the old door is removed, the proper integration of the 5 Barriers (see elsewhere in this book) has been destroyed and it will be tough to reconnect the comparable barriers in the new door system to the remnants of the same barriers in the wall. The next few pages show a method where these 5 Barriers can be re-created since they cannot be re-connected. This procedure makes use of a slow expansion low density foam tape that fits itself to the nooks and crannies of the old opening. This foam is impregnated with chemicals that keep out even driven water and offer flashing performance as well as insulation. Lastly, old doors often are mounted in openings that have suffered water intrusion. Use impel rods in the frame where water has been and may still reside to prevent mold, mildew, rot and insect damage. Impel Rods are placed into holes drilled in wood at key locations. As the Rods dissolve, the borate preservative migrates to areas of highest moisture and concentrates where wood is most susceptible to decay. If the wood dries the Rods stop diffusing. The residual preservative remains in place. When the moisture content rises the Rods resume diffusion. Depending upon conditions of moisture, Impel Rods need not be replaced for years. A chart included in each package that shows recommended rods sizes and spacing for each type of installation. There are three easy steps to installing Impel Rods: 1. Drill appropriate sized holes to accommodate the predetermined number and size of Impel Rods required. 2. Insert the suitable size and number of Impel Rods into the holes. 3. Seal the holes with treated wooden dowel, wood filler (like wood putty or caulk). Paint if desired.. The Contractors Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 74 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

76 Replacing a Window with a Door The opportunity to add more glass area in any home is an opportunity to let in more light and ventilation and improve the view. Adding more glass area can be done by removing a single window and adding a bay or bow window, or even a wider combination window. Installing a patio door not only increases the glass size, but will offer another entry/exit point to add deck or sunroom access. Today s high performance windows and doors limit any increase in energy consumption that might occur by making the opening bigger and the weather stripping, glazing and precision design will out-perform smaller, old windows. Considerations when Replacing Windows with Doors 1. There must be room for the new window or door. Beyond measuring for the width and height of the new window or door, it is important to consider the need for a header above the new window, and to be sure electrical and heat wires, pipes and ducts are not in the way or are properly moved or repositioned to accommodate the new unit. The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 75 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

77 2. The ceiling beams above must be supported during the construction. Proper installation of all windows and doors includes a header and jack studs on either side. This assembly transfers the weight from the structure above, sort of around the window, and transfers the weight to the floor below. When you make the opening larger, the existing header must be removed, and a new header inserted between the studs in the outerwall, and new jack studs inserted to transfer the weight supported by the longer header, again to the floor. While you are removing the old header and installing the new one, the beams in the ceiling above need to be supported. You can do this with a 2x4 minimum, spanning a greater width than the new window or door, held up snug by 2x4 s as shown. Do this as close to the outside wall as is practical. 3. Carefully re-establish the water management system in the wall. The new window or door will be exposed to more outside weather, and if it is a door, then the sill will be subject to water intrusion if it is not properly crafted. Study the installation procedures for Bay, Bow and Garden windows and entry and patio doors for the steps needed to create a proper water management system for the newly added unit. Once you are adding a new header and support framing, the techniques for new construction will apply. The good news is that when making the opening bigger, finishing the exterior siding and trim and the interior walboard and molding is simpler because the pieces you might remove are not destroyed and should be able to be trimmed to size and reused. The Contractor's Guide to installing Vinyl Windows 76 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

78 Face Seal Finned Window with Stucco Finish on Wood Framed Wall Using a stucco finish over a wood framed home is a tricky window and door installation. It is a very common exterior finish in California and other warmer climates. Stucco is not waterproof - no matter how skilled the plasterer is. Rain will get behind the stucco.. The goal, then, is to seal the window and door against water penetration before the stucco finish is applied to make sure the water behind the stucco will run down and out, and not penetrate the seal around the window. Since stucco itself will let water through, then the most important aspect of the window installation is build the proper drainage plane behind the stucco cladding and if it doesn't work right, it puts undue pressure on the window flashing - sometimes beyond its design. The following diagrams show a double system The first flashes the window, and the second reflashes the installed window to create the drainage plane behind the final stucco, cement or plaster finish. Rough Header King Stud The drainage plane also serves to protect the framing from the water that comes through and behind the stucco. Cripple Stud Rough Sill Jack Stud Be cautious where the fasteners are applied to mount the lathe. Errant nails or hardware can puncture the well flashed window creating the very water paths you so carefully tried to avoid. It is also recommended that a weep screen be used to assure proper drainage out of any water behind the system. When sealing along the bottom, make sure you leave two 2-inch gaps where there is no sealant, to allow proper drainage when necessary, The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 77 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

79 Step 1: Using flashing nails or staples, attach strip of building paper at the sill. Attach top only and leave the sides and bottom loose. Step 3: Install window plumb, level and square using shims as necessary. Nail through mounting fin to studs on jambs. Using Simplex nails, attach header nailing fin. This will allow expansion and contraction freely. Step 1 Do not mount along bottom. If sealant is to be used, makes ure weep space is left at the sill and that the sealant is chemically compatible with the building paper. Step 3 Step 2: Using flashing nails or staples, attach strips of building paper along jambs. Step 4: Install flashing at the sill, covering the bottom nailing fin. the sill flashing. Step 2 Step 4 The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 78 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

80 Step 5: Install additional flashing along jambs, overlapping bottom flashing. Install final piece of flashing on header, overlapping the jamb flashings. Step 7: Install Final course of building paper over the top flashing, overlapping the jamb flashing. Seal paper to nailing fin with sealant. Step 5 Step 7 Step 6: Install first course of building paper under sill flashing, and apply sealant. Step 8: Install building paper over both Jambs, overlapping bottom course of building paper. Install Drip cap, over top of window as shown. Drip cap Window frame Nailing fin Step 6 Step 8 The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 79 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

81 Step 9: Install Final course of building paper over the top flashing, overlapping the jamb flashing. Step 11: Apply a suitable lathe over the sheathing. Seal paper to nailing fin with seal Step 9 Step 11 Step 10: Install foam sheathing (or other appropriate substitute) over the building paper. Step 12: Trowel on stucco, making sure it makes proper bonding contact with the lathe. Provide an expansion joint between the stucco and the window (a gap for backer rod and sealant). Air seal around entire perimeter with sealant. Step 10 Step 12 The Contractor's Guide to Installing Vinyl Windows 80 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

82 Coastal CMU Installation with Installed Buck Coastal Installation Stucco finished homes are prevalent in coastal areas of the US and with the advent of Hurricane Code Standards in Florida and elsewhere, installation of products for these areas require different details, techniques and procedures. Stucco Finish A building system utilizing stucco as a wall cladding is generically known as a drainage wall, a wall system in which the outermost material provides a substantial barrier to water and a secondary material, typically a weather resistive barrier (WRB), provides a backup barrier to water that may penetrate the cladding. Penetrating water is intended to flow by gravity to the exterior outside of the WRB and is prevented from reaching water-sensitive materials. There are two types of drainage walls: membrane drainage walls and cavity drainage walls. A system utilizing stucco is an example of a membrane drainage wall, whereas a system using masonry veneer is usually designed as a cavity drainage wall. In drainage walls, evaporation may also play a role in moisture dissipation, but is a comparatively slower process subject to weather conditions. As a material, stucco can provide a high resistance to passage of liquid water if properly formulated and cured, but it is not waterproof. Neither is it, as thought by many, porous. In fact, when liquid water penetrates stucco cladding on a building, it almost always does so not through the field of the stucco but through breaches at cracks, control joints, perimeters of openings such as doors and windows and joints with abutting materials. In a properly designed stucco clad wall, water from these breaches is expected to penetrate no further than the Typical Flanged Window in Stucco Veneered Block or Frame Wall The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 81 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

83 WRB and exit the wall base at a weep screed or dissipate through evaporation. There are limits, however, to the volume of water a stucco clad wall system can successfully handle. Stucco can be applied over block (typical CBS construction) or over wood frame (often used for the upper story of residential homes). In CBS construction, the block is the Water-Resistant-Barrier (WRB), and in wood frame applications, stucco is placed over a WRB which is a membrane such as water-resistant building paper. It is not the province of this manual to discuss various construction methods. However, the success of a window or door installation is dependent on the successful handling of the water that will penetrate the stucco. These instructions are dependent on certain principles to accomplish just that. The role of Concrete Block The concrete block used in residential housing, when covered with stucco, becomes the water resistant barrier. What that means is that it retards the passage of the water into the interior of the home. Many mistake that to mean, no water should be absorbed into the block, when in reality, the successful performance of the CBS wall depends on a certain amount of absorption to handle the inevitable water penetration of the stucco in severe weather. Two ways water that gets behind stucco is handled Drained Assembly Mass Assembly When stucco claddings leak, the penetrating water is traditionally managed in two fundamental ways. The first is direction to a water resistant barrier such as in a drained assembly where the water exits the wall downward, and the second is a mass assembly where the eater is absorbed in non-water sensitive material and released to the interior and exterior in a controlled way during drying periods. Concrete block serves this purpose well and it is expected to do so in CBS construction. However, it is also expected that the rate of drying will not be exceeded by water collection, so fenestration installation must limit possibility of excess water getting inside the cavity. Weep Screeds are Recommended The second component of the systems design requirements is a weep screed at the bottom of the wall and at all soffits. Wherever the vertical wall terminates and/or changes direction, water that may collect behind the stucco veneer needs to be able to drain out. This negatively effects window and door openings where the window unit is recessed from the plane of the wall. If no weep screed is installed, the water will be directed to the header of the window unit, and this is often the case. Therefore, water needs to be directed away from the window/door header and back into the drainage plane to be able to escape from the behind the veneer and not penetrate into the interior of the building. Proper Sill Pan The third component of an effective stucco wall, is the drainage of the sill of the window or door unit. As the illustrations show, improper sill shape, improper sill slope, and improper drainage path for the sill will cause problems and not allow the stucco wall to perform as it was intended. The last consideration is the creation of the window or door opening. Too often it is out of square, improperly sized, improperly bucked, and improperly prepared to accept the window Drains to Inside Drains to Outside or door. Added to this is the reliance on other trades to prepare the opening before the window installer technician arrives to fit the product. These instructions will assume that the window fitter has examined the opening and has assured that the rough sill is proper, and that the dimensions are accurate within 1/8 in plumb, square and level. No fenestration product should be installed in any other opening. In addition, the window fitter should fabricate and install the wood bucks, and the sill pan or equivalent(s) and seal them adequately before mounting the new window or door. Credits: Photos and Artwork courtesy of Building Science Corporation; TM Windows and Doors; Builder Magazine, December 2005; and AWDI Standards, version 1.3. The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 82 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

84 Coastal CMU Installation with Installed Buck Step 1: The Opening must be level, plumb and square, and the mortar properly applied to allow no voids, cracks or clumps that might allow water infiltration. A proper sill must be accommodated either with a pre-cast sill, or an applied buck with a sill pan installed as shown. Note: Florida Building Code Requires that products tested for wind and debris - especially for hurricane and high wind zones - be installed as they were tested. This can mean anything other than a wood buck sill can void hurricane and wind approvals. Exterior Precast Lintel Poured Sill Step 3: Install a window buck, receptor or device which will act as a mounting surface on both sides and the top for the seating of the window into the masonry cavity. Apply a 9 mm (3/8 inch) bead sealant or appropriate gasket under the buck material to prevent the passage of water behind the buck. Align Head Buck with Sill Detail. The outermost edge of the jamb and header bucks will align with the outermost edge of the sill buck and/or pan. Exterior Step 2: It is recommended that installer treat the masonry opening with a CMU sealer for the purpose of sealing the CMU window cavity from absorbing liquid water. This application will be put on before the installation of the buck materials. Mark set-back for buck on jambs and header. Step 4: Assure there are no gaps between bucks when anchoring bucks to CMU opening Note: The number, type and spacing of fasteners required for installation of the bucks is in accordance with local code. The coatings will need to be extended onto the sill member, ensuring 100% continuity between the buck and the sill member, with no air or water gaps. Exterior Exterior The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 83 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

85 Step 5: If not using a prefabricated sill pan, cut an approximate 1x1 to serve as back dam for sill drainage and install on sill buck. Alternate 1: If a precast concrete sill is used, coat the corners with liquid flashing or seal the corners to complete the sill pan effect. Cast Sill w/ Taper is tough to seal Buck without sill pan is not sufficient PreCast Shaped Sill provides back dam and slope for sill pan drainage Exterior Exterior Step 6: Using liquid membrane flashing material, coat the sill, the back dam and the jamb buck and CMU up the sides 9 and out on the face of the CMU, inside and out, 9 to 12 inches. This will form a flashed sill pan for proper drainage of the cavity. Step 7: Apply sealant to face of buck on all exterior surfaces to protect it from possible water absorption from the stucco material that it will contact. On the sill, leave 2 opening in bead of sealant/caulk in two places to allow drainage. Exterior Exterior The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 84 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

86 Step 8:. Run a continuous 9 mm (3/8 inch) bead of sealant up both sides and across the top of the inside of the flange. Connect that bead of sealant across any joinery of the window frame at all four corners. You can also apply the bead of sealant to the flashing directly. Step 10: Using a framing square, plumb and square the window/door carefully. Shim with plastic, flat, stackable shims. Never use tapered wood shims. Using proper, code approved fasteners, anchor window through frame into the bucks. Make sure all anchors are properly sized. Drill through wood buck to at least 1-3/8 into block for proper tapcon anchoring. Exterior Interior Step 9: Place window/door unit into opening, pressing flange against the opening to make a firm contact with the sealant. Do not run a bead of sealant across the inside of the bottom flange of the window to allow water that has entered the window sill to exit easily. Step 11: Trim excess shim material flush with exterior face of window to ensure that shims do not interfere with the application of the interior trim material Take care not to crack or split the shim. Note: Use Fein Tool or similar for clean cut. Make preliminary determination of level. Interior Interior The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 85 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

87 Step 12: Apply backer rod and an interior perimeter bead of sealant or other window manufacturer approved material between the window and the substrates to ensure a complete air and water seal. Step 14: When exterior stucco finish is applied, it is imperative that the outside bottom of the window flange is not sealed or covered to allow for water drainage, do not seal outside bottom of window flange. Any finish applied to the sill shall not interfere with the drainage of liquid water. The water must drain to the exterior surface of the façade. Interior Exterior Step 13: Caulk/Seal exterior to make sure window is properly interfaced with CMU Sealer and sill pan liquid flashing - careful not to block either of the two 2 drainage gaps in the sill sealant. Finish Inside, tool sealant in such a way as to not interfere with the placement of any interior trim on the inside of the window masonry opening. Outside, when placing stucco finish, be careful not to block drainage from under sill. Take care not to let Stucco Veneer Can Block Drainage Exterior The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 86 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

88 Coastal CMU Installation with Flush 2x8 Buck 2 x 8 Step 1: To flush mount a finned window use 2 x8 pressure-treated buck material fastened to the block with code required fasteners properly embedded into the block. Use sealant on the block to seal the buck against the block when installed. Seal all four corner joints. Precast Lintel Poured Sill 2 x 8 Step 3: Using flexible, adhesive-backed flashing, create a sillpan by applying the flashing along the sill and up the sides approximately 6 inches. 2x8 Buck on All Sides Exterior Exterior 2 x 8 Step 2: As with recessed mounting, treat the masonry opening with a CMU sealer for the purpose of sealing the CMU window cavity from absorbing liquid water. 2 x 8 Step 4: Once the window is mounted, flexible adhesive-backed flashing and wire lathe as needed to be sure the entire exterior perimeter is well sealed to shed surface water. Be sure to cover the buck, and the block - inside and out to a distance of approximately 9 out from the opening in all directions. Exterior Exterior The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 87 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

89 CMU Curved-Top Installation with Buck Installing Curved Windows in CMU Openings is a difficult procedure because the concrete block, or even poured concrete lintel is difficult to make perfectly smooth and round, and join the rough opening jambs seamlessly. The applied buck is made from a flat stock - either 3/4 thick or 1-1/2 thick and this stock is not easily bent to a shape. If it can t be bent well, the circular window cannot easily mount weather tight and water and moisture penetration resistance like the rectangular units can be. Fabricating the opening to accept a curved window requires on of two approaches: 1. Kerfing the stock (as shown) by slicing a multitude of grooves in the surface 2. Utilizing a free foam, cellular pvc stock which can be bent to a radius in a smooth fashion. Accommodating the Curved Window The Opening must be level, plumb and square, and the mortar properly applied to allow no voids, cracks or clumps that might allow water infiltration. A proper sill must be accommodated either with a pre-cast sill, or an applied buck with a sill pan installed as shown. Note: Florida Building Code Requires that products tested for wind and debris - especially for hurricane and high wind zones - be installed as they were tested. This can mean anything other than a wood buck sill may void hurricane and wind approvals. Precast Lintel Poured Sill The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 88 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

90 Free Foam Cellular pvc can be arched smoothly to make the best curved buck Smoothly Arc d Cellular PVC Header Buck Once a curved masonry header member is created, the installation steps are basically the same as for rectangular windows Cellular PVC arc d Header buck Seal Joint Kerfing - cutting multi grooves in wood to facilitate bending Alternate wood frame method Where poured header, with curved inner surface, is not provided, a wooden section is built within the rectangular opening, having a curved surface to which the window buck is mounted. This method is often used to match CMU walls with wood frame walls. Because bending a wood buck is difficult, this method is better suited to flush mount, finned windows. Wood Constructed Header Opening with arc d wood blocks Kerfed Curved Buck Blocks are fastened in a rough arc to which the kerfed buck is to be nailed It is difficult to kerf wood which often creates a poor header buck The Contractors Guide to Installing Windows 89 Contents Do not reproduce without permission

91 Published by: AWDI, LLC US HIGHWAY ONE - SUITE 382 NORTH PALM BEACH, FL FAX Under License from Jervis & Associates Contents All Rights Reserved. Although all possible measures have been taken to insure the accuracy of the material presented, AWDI, and the author are not liable and do not assume any liability in case of misinterpretation of directions, misapplication, improper installation, or typographical error.