1898 Hat by Kristine Byrnes:

1898 Hat by Kristine Byrnes: Summarized/simplified; see download [Jessica-Jean, KP forum, posted Feb 28, 2015]: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-322187-2.html#6944595 Previous note compilation[stephhy/kp forum, posted Jan 20, 2015]: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-313700-1.html Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=umofbhz4z7a Ref (free memberships): http://www.knittingparadise.com, http://www.ravelry.com [Ravelry, 3/8/15] The construction of this hat was inspired by one pictured in a magazine published around 1910. Knitting the headband side to side provides a double layer of garter stitch to keep the ears warm, and allows for easy shaping of the earflaps. The edges of the headband are folded together along a slipped stitch seam, and picked up together to finish in the round. The hat has plenty of depth so it can be pulled low on the forehead, and the ear flaps will naturally cup around the ears to keep them warm. I've knit several of those hats for the Seaman's Institute. They support the seamen (both ocean going and River barge workers) with chaplains, christmas packages, and classes to improve their skills.. The hat was developed specifically to be able to be worn under hard hats on port. Just wanted to give credit where credit is due, thanks. [Susanrph/KnittingParadise] ---------------------------- ---------------------------------------- [Ravelry comments, exerpts:] It is extremely warm, especially when knitted from a single ply heavy worsted wool. Maybe not a fashion statement, but an essential for cold weather. The pattern is very easy to adjust in size. I used Knitpicks Comfy Fingering and size 1 needle for a newborn baby, and then size 3 needle for when the baby turned about four months old. The only adjustment was to the height of the crown. The only hats I have knitted for her that actually stay on her head, because of the cupping ear flaps. We live in California so the cotton/nylon blend is just perfect. [Ravelry projects:] http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/1898-hat/people ---------------------------- ---------------------------------------------- [KnittingParadise:http://www.knittingparadise.com/search.jsp?q=1898&u=&sr=true&s=0] Links & Resources: http://www.youtube.com/watch? v=umofbhz4z7a&feature=share&list=pl9404aa6e23c289c7 Reflective yarn: I used US 7 even though the reflective yarn is bulky. (re: I Love This Yarn, Reflective; Hobby Lobby brand) http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-307584-1.html#6556732 Questions: 1) I will be knitting the seamans 1898 hat on straight needles. My question is on the wrong side it says to s1,knit to marker, slm,sl3wyif slm,k to end. I know on my wrong side I will be purling what do I do with wyif, since I am on purl side? it means that the yarn across those slipped stitches will be on the inside of the hat band eventually. This is where you will fold the headband section in half and forms the bottom of the band around the face The first section (band with earflaps) is knit in garter stitch, which is

knit in both directions. That 3 stitch area makes for a very nice turn. You do need to put the yarn in front, then slip the 3 stitches, when working the wrong side rows. WYIF is with yarn in front no matter which side you are working on. So on that row, you would slip 1, Knit to the marker, slip the marker, slip 3 stitches with the yarn in front, slip the marker, and knit to the end. The part where you put the working yarn front and back makes a sort of Icord which is where the hat band folds. When you do the band on straight needles you will be doing garter stitch so no purling. The first row is the wrong side.the second row where the is no slipped stitch in the center is the right sided row. As previously posted garter st is worked both ways, so follow pattern and work on in st st for main part of hat, just be careful with decreases as they are not all on knit side. Yes the k3sts will look like stockinette stitches on the (RS) rightside of the work and on the WS those sitches will be represented with a strand (which helped me keep my count straight. 2) pattern reads: *knit 10 K2tog* repeat from * to end of round (77 st.) Knit 2 rounds. Is this telling me to: k10 then k2tog then repeat this around to the end and then do this row 2 more times or Is this telling me to knit 10 k2tog ( k2tog, k2tog -for 10 times) the knit 2 straight rows? Do: (Knit 10, k2tog) 7 times in one round Then just knit 2 straight rounds with no increase/decrease. 3) I'm a little confused with row b. Do you wyif before you sl 3 sts. or after? I was doing it after, but in the video it shows her doing before. You knit to the marker, slip the marker, PUT YOUR YARN FORWARD, slip 3 sts, put the yarn back, slip the marker and work to end. At least this is how I did it, and it looks really nice. This is making an I-cord in the middle of your row which was new to me. Edited: I should have put s1 1 (the first stitch of each row) then proceed with your row. I'm sorry if this confused you. gdhavens has it right. I've made three of these and they really turn out nice. You may have to add a few rows to the center, between the ears, so that it will fit well. Following the pattern made it to tight or small. I added about 8 to10 rows. Actually there's no comma between the sl 3 and the wyif and I think that's where you were confused. it is sl 3 wyif which means "slip 3 with yarn in front" as a single item. I've made 2 of these and followed a KPers advise to slip the first stitch as if to purl. Makes it so much easier to pick up the stitches later. I also followed the suggestion to pick up the front of one side and the back of the other side and it made the joining almost seamless. 4) Set up row (WS) says slip 1, Knit 1, place marker, slip 3 wyif. place marker, knit 12. Seems to me this is 17 stitches----it says cast on 27! Cast on 27 stitches. Set up row (WS): Slip 1, k 11, pm, sl 3 wyif, pm, k 12. = 27 stitches. It seems that you're missing the k 11. 5) On the ear flap, do I do row C and then row C and B 9 more times? Knit Row C, then go back to B & knit that. Repeat Rows C & B however many times it says. Don't knit Row C again until you have knit Row B. "Row C" is just the explanation of how to work it.

6) I have just completed Row C (right earflap) and ready to begin the Repeat Rows C &B 9 times. I am just a little confused,that is, since I just completed Row C why when it states repeat Rows C&B instead of B&C. Do I just begin with Row B then C 9 times? No you work row c and then b. C is the front of the work and b is the wrong side. In the pattern they just explain what to do in row c and then they tell you to repeat c and b. Under pattern notes see the counting the number of rows explanation. I just cast on as normal, long tail leaving the 20" end to graft with. Child's 1898 Hat [KnittingParadise messages; excerpts] I wanted a lighter weight, smaller, hat and therefore knit using the same number of stitches in original pattern, but with DK (3) weight yarn and US 5 circular (and double pointed for closing) needles. The circumference is 15" and the height is 6" as I did not knit the 2 extra rows in between when decreasing. It will fit a child which is what I wanted. I have just finished the hat using dk and 4mm (US 6) needles and without stretching it measures 17inch. I always make them 19 inch by 7 and a half for a 3 year old so I think mine will be a bit on the small size for my toddler grandson. I did make a hat with DK for a child with the same numbers as for an adult hat, but 4.5 inches tall instead of 5 inches, before decreasing for the crown. It fit an 8 year-old very nicely. You do know that you are not obligated to work the pattern stitch-by-stitch as written. So far, I've made two and neither crown is as the pattern is written. On the first, I skipped the second plain round on the last few decreases. On the second, I skipped all the plain rounds. Both seem to fit my 23" head and keep in warm at deep-freeze temperatures. Others in our little group have also changed bits and pieces of the pattern. Isn't that what one is supposed to do? Use a pattern as a guideline, not graven in stone? Heck! There's even a baby sized version worked up on KP by jvallas! 14" - http://www.ravelry.com/projects/jvallas/1898-hat-4 18" - http://www.ravelry.com/projects/jvallas/1898-hat-3 Adjusting for baby size: Looking at the pattern, it breaks down in this way, which gives you a little bit of an idea of the percentages needed for the front, back, and two earflaps. Might be able to fit that into your smaller size calculations: Seamen's hat 168 total rows. Provisional caston of 27. Band 18 rows Earflap 42 rows Front of headband 48 rows Left earflap 42 rows Back 18 rows (combined with first 18 rows = 36 rows for the back) So just slightly more in front band than back. Earflap slightly shorter than front band. Etc. (And I assume you want to cast on fewer stitches to narrow the band.) Adult's 1898 Hat [KnittingParadise messages; excerpts] I made this in a soft boucle type yarn. Needed to reduce the picked up stitches around the top edge to 50 so that it would not slip down over my eyes. Did 4 rows of K1,P1 rib. http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-320869-1.html finished one similar but with a finish of single crochet. 1sc in each of the first 3 knit stitches, skip 1 knit stitch. I used a US G-hook & tried it on the person receiving it. He likes it.

...yes it is K10, K2tog here is a pic of mine, the next time I do it I will decrease it down but In the decrease section, I would stop knitting a plain round after the K6, K2tog round to make the hat less pointy. http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-310368-1.html#6628986 The pattern gives a gauge of 20 st/ 4 inches using worsted yarn and suggests a size 7 US needle( or sz 8 if you are a tight knitter). If you use DK yarn and a sz 7 needle, your hat will probably not be much smaller than the original. Swatching is the only sure predictor. I would certainly not double the yarn- it will turn out bigger than your worsted version. I find this hat very stretchy and adaptable to different size adult heads and wouldn't try to alter it unless knitting for a small child. Second color, one row where brim meets cap picture here: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-312136-1.html#6673626 I added the green stripe afterwards with a yarn needle and a bit of green yarn to match with his jacket. Measure his head and make the headband to fit his head,then pick up your stitches for the top.of course there will be more stitches to pick up as the headband is bigger Then start your 10 point decrease. Actually, I finished the ear-flap band today and it fits my 23" head with a few fewer rows than the pattern calls for! I didn't think it would be big enough, but my knitting buddy who's already made one said it has to stretch to fit well. If it doesn't, it'll probably be too loose. http://www.ravelry.com/projects/dpabaker/1898-hat http://www.ravelry.com/projects/marfknits/1898- hathttp://www.knittingparadise.com/t-307584-1.html#6556732 I don't know what my head measurement is, but I know non-stretchy hats are almost always too small. What I did was add 2 additional rows to the back part, knit the ear part as written and then placed a marker. I then knit until it reached the middle of my forehead (with a little stretching), counted the number of rows between the two markers, and then knit the same number of rows before increasing for the second ear flap. After picking up stitches for the hat part, I did have to increase a few stitches to make the number evenly divisible. My son's head measured 24"so I added 6 rows around and since he also measured longer, I added 6 stitches to the band. The gauge worked out to 6 stitches per inch and it seems to have worked out quite well. If you make your band 91 garter ridges and pick up the same number of stitches for the crown you could plan your decreases in 7 divisions of 15 stitches. I would add a few rows before beginning the decreases for a larger head. My family doesn't like ripple or pointy tops so I spread my decreases over about 20-23 rounds and begin the decreases 3 1/2 inches above the base of the ear flap measured the same as the pattern. For a larger head I would increase that measurement a bit. I knit 3 plain rounds after the first decrease, 2 plain rounds after the next 3 decreases, 1 after that, etc and decrease each round for the final few rounds closing the top Enlarged: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-312506-1.html Row 1: K10, k2tog eight times row 2:Kround row 3: kround Row 4: K9, k2tog eight time Row 5:kround Row 6: kround. Continue in this manner until you reach the last row which will be k2tog around.

Making just the band Wearing w a baseball cap: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-317302-1.html#6815330 file for the above variation: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-317302-2.html#6815552 Variation w baseball cap: http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-317302-4.html#6829663 Preference & method: 1) I have been working to try to reduce the divot that comes after you pick up the stitches around the band of the hat, and this seems to work pretty well. I did it last night when it was dark and missed a couple of places that aren't really picked up well, but I like the way it looks. Next time I will slip the stitches differently, but this is made to pattern except I picked up the stitches from the wrong side, knit one row and then purled one row to give the garter stitch effect at the top of the band....i used almost one ball of Wool-Ease for this hat. I am not too fond of the yarn though. It splits and gets fuzzy pretty quickly. http://www.knittingparadise.com/t-316940-1.html#6805116 I found the stitches especially hard to pick up, so on my last hat I did a single crochet around the edge in a contrasting color and then picked the stitched up from the crochet row back to the main color.