C243 Ecological Wool Manly Henley Sweater Designed by Vera Sanon
Ecological Wool Manly Henley Sweater Designed by Vera Sanon Knitting for a man can be a challenge because men are simply difficult to knit for. Men want simplicity in a garment that is practical to wear. Also, they prefer muted colors, such as gray or brown. I think that this sweater incorporates all of the above, plus it is a fast knit because of its large gauge. Yarn: 2* (3, 3, 3, 4) skeins of Cascade Yarns Ecological Wool (100% Natural Peruvian Wool, 250 g (8.82 oz) / 478 yards (437 m). Shown in color # 8020 (Gun Metal) * Please Note: The smallest size, knit exactly as this pattern is written, uses 890 yds of yarn, just under 2 skeins. Needles: U.S. 10 (6 mm) - 32 or longer circular needle & 16 circular needle or DPN if not using magic loop or size to obtain the correct gauge. U.S. 9 (5.5 mm) - 32 or longer circular needle & 16 circular needle or DPN if not using magic loop or size to obtain the correct gauge. Notions: Sizes: Round Stitch Markers 4 Hook Stitch Markers Stitch holders or scrap yarn to hold stitches Tapestry needle 6 - ¾ buttons S (M, L, XL, 2XL) 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) actual garment finished chest size Gauge: 14 sts x 22 rows = 4 x 4 in Stockinette st, on US 10 (6 mm) knitting needles.
Pattern Notes: This sweater is worked using the contiguous top-down knitting method (first developed by Susie Meyers). The back is cast on and then the shoulder seams are worked simultaneously until the shoulders are wide enough. After that, the stitch markers are moved to start working and shaping the sleeve cap. Once the sleeve top portion is finished, the sleeve stitches are placed on scrap yarn to be worked later. If this is your first time working a sweater in this construction manner, my advice is to follow the instructions step-by-step because along the way, you will understand the construction logic. Abbreviations: st/sts = Stitch/Stitches inc = Increase dec = Decrease rep = Repeat CO = Cast On BO = Bind Off PM = Place Stitch Marker SM = Slip Stitch Marker WS = Wrong Side RS = Right Side K = Knit P = Purl kfb = Knit into the front and back of a stitch, an increase pfb = Purl into the front and back of a stitch, an increase ssk = Slip a stitch, slip the next stitch, knit the slipped stitches together; a decrease k2tog = Knit 2 stitches together KRL = Knit right loop; a left leaning increase (Lift the right loop of the stitch just below the next un-worked stitch, then knit the lifted stitch through the back loop KLL = Knit left loop; a right leaning increase (Lift the left loop of the stitch two rows below the last worked stitch and then knit the lifted stitch through the back loop Directions: With larger sized needles cast on 38 (38, 40, 40, 40) sts, as follows: Left Shoulder Seam : Shoulder Seam : Left CO 1 st, PM, CO 4 sts, PM CO 28 (28, 30, 30, 30) sts, PM CO 4 sts, PM CO 1 st. Set-up R1 (WS): Pfb, SM, p all sts until last marker, SM, pfb. Set-up R2 (RS): K2, SM,
K2 Set-up R3 (WS): P all sts, slipping all markers. Set-up R4 (RS): K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM KRL, K1, KRL, K1 Set-up R5 (WS): P all sts, slipping all markers, at end of row, CO 3 sts (using backward loop). Set-up R6 (RS): K to 2 sts before marker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM, KRL, K1, KRL, K to end of row, CO 3 sts (using backward loop method) Set-up R7 & R8: Repeat Set-up R5 & R6. Set-up R9 (WS): P all sts, slipping all markers, at end of row, CO 8 sts (using backward loop). Set-up R10 (RS): K2, (P1, K1) - 2 times, P1, PM, K to 2 sts before next maker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM, KRL, K1, KRL, K to end of row, CO 8 sts (using backward loop method) Set-up R11(WS):
P2, (K1, P1) - 2 times, K1, PM, P to last 7 sts, SM, (K1, P1) - 3 times, P1. Important: The first and last 7 sts are worked in K1, P1 pattern for the Henley button band. Continue working these in pattern until the button bands are finished. RS Row: First 7 sts - K2, (P1, K1) - 2 times, P1 to marker --- last 7 sts - (P1, K1) - 3 times, K1. WS Row: First 7 sts - P2 (K1, P1) - 2 times, K1 to marker --- last 7 sts - (K1, P1) - 3 times, P1. Next Row (RS): Work Buttonhole K2, P1, K1, YO, k2tog, P1, SM, K to 2 sts before next marker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM KRL, K1, KRL, K to last 7 sts, work in established rib pattern to end of row. Important: The button holes are worked every 8 th row, at the same time as the shoulder and sleeve shaping - K2, P1, K1, YO, k2tog, P1 every 8 th row, 5 more times from this point forward. Next Row (WS): R1 (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to 2 sts before next maker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM KRL, K1, KRL, K to last 7 sts, work last 7 sts in pattern. R2 (WS): Repeat R1 & R2 until there are 64 (72, 78, 86, 90) sts in the back section. Size 56 Only: R1 (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to 1 st before next marker, K1, KLL, SM, KRL, K1, k all sts to 1 st before next marker, K1, KLL, SM, KRL, K to last 7 sts, work last 7 sts in pattern. R2 (WS): - (-, -, -, 92) sts in back section.
Sleeve Cap Shaping: Before working the next row, place a hook stitch marker, 1 st to the right of the shoulder marker, and 1 st to the left of the shoulder marker, repeat for other side. There will be 6 sts between the removable stitch markers for each shoulder/sleeve. From this point forward, increases are worked inside of the 2 newly place markers to create the sleeve cap. Set-up Row (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to 1 st hook maker, remove hook marker and replace with a round stitch marker. KRL, K1, KRL, K to 2 sts before next hook maker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, remove hook maker and replace with a round stitch marker, K back sts to next hook marker, remove hook marker and replace with a round stitch marker, KRL, K1, KRL, K to 2 sts before next hook marker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, remove hook marker and replace with a round stitch marker, K to last 7 sts, SM, work last 7 sts in pattern. Set-up Row (WS): R1 (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to next marker, SM KRL, K1, KRL, K to 2 sts before next maker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM, K back sts to next marker, SM KRL, K1, KRL, K to 2 sts before next maker, K1, KLL, K1, KLL, SM, K to last 7 sts, SM, work last 7 sts in pattern. R2 (WS): Repeat R1 & R2 2 (2, 2, 3, 3) more times 22 (22, 22, 26, 26) total sts for sleeve cap. Sleeve Shaping: R1 (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to next marker, SM KRL, K to 1 st before next marker, K1, KLL, SM, K back sts to next marker, SM KRL, K to 1 st before next maker, K1, KLL, SM, K to last 7 sts, SM, work last 7 sts in pattern.
R2 (WS): Repeat R1 & R2 until there are 44 (46, 48, 50, 50) sts per sleeve. R1a (RS): Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to 1 st before next marker, K1, KLL, SM K all sts, SM KRL, K to 1 st before next marker, K1, KLL, SM K all sts, SM KRL, K to last 7 sts, SM, work last 7 sts in pattern. R2a (WS): Repeat R1a & R2a one more time. Important Note: At the same time, once the 6 th button hole has been worked, work one more WS row. Join Fronts: Continue working with sleeve shaping (see below), at the same time Next RS Row: work first 7 sts and place these sts onto short circular needle, continue working the row in pattern to the last 7 sts. Slip the 7 sts on spare needle to the front and hold in back of work. Join for working in the round. K2tog (1 st st from left-hand needle with 1 st st from spare circular needle) 7 times. From this point forward, work in the round. Separating of Sleeves, Joining of Front & Back Sections: Next RS Row: Work first 7 sts in pattern, SM, K to next marker, remove marker Place next 44 (46, 48, 50, 50) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker CO 6 sts, PM*, CO 6 sts, K back sts to next marker, remove marker, CO 8 sts Place next 44 (46, 48, 50, 50) sts onto scrap yarn, remove marker K to last 7 sts, SM, work last 7 sts in pattern. * This marker will mark end/beginning of new round once body is joined in the round. Next WS Row: Continue working in round until piece measures 16 (all sizes) or 2 less than overall desired length.
Change to smaller sized needles and work in * K1, P1 * ribbing pattern for 10 rounds. BO in next round. Sleeves (work 2): Place 44 (46, 48, 50, 50) sts back onto 16 larger circular needle pick up 4 sts, PM, pick up 4 sts from underarm CO edge, join in the round. 52 (54, 56, 58, 58) sts on needles. Work in Stockinette sts for 35 rounds. Dec Round: SM, K1, K2tog, work to last 3 sts, SSK, K1. Work 8 rounds evenly. Repeat last 9 rounds 4 (5, 6, 7, 7) more times. 42 (42, 42, 42, 42) sts remaining. Continue working until sleeve measures 19 (19, 19.5, 20, 20) from underarm or to 2 less than overall desired length. Change to smaller sized needles and work in * K1, P1 * ribbing pattern for 10 rounds. BO in next round. Neckband: With smaller sized needles and RS facing, starting at the right front, pick up 76 (78, 82, 84, 86) sts. R1 (WS): P all sts. R2 (RS): K all sts. R3 (WS): P all sts. R4 (RS): P all sts. (turning row) R5 (WS): P all sts. R6 (RS): K all sts. R7 (WS): P all sts. Next Row: BO all sts. Finishing: Fold Neckband, sew to pick up row and sew side edges to neckband. Sew buttons opposite of buttonholes. Weave in ends, block as desired.