TRAINING PROGRAM 2016

TRAINING PROGRAM 2016

Stefano Bemer offers a professional artisan educational program in the craft of handmade men s shoes. The overall program is composed of three stages to be completed over the course of a year. The first introductory stage presented here is for novices with a strong desire to acquire the basic skill set and knowledge base of hand-made shoes. The introductory or apprentice level program lasts for three months. Students may then apply for the second of artisan level which also lasts for three months of intensive study and work before progressing to the maestro level. In order to access the second level, students will be asked to pass an exam. The artisan and maestro programs are open to students who have completed the previous levels of study with Stefano Bemer or to applicants in the field who have a solid foundation and experience. Applicants for the Apprentice and Artisan levels have first priority in enrollment selection. The Maestro level is reserved for two or three of the best students from the Artisan level but favor those who have followed the complete Stefano Bemer training (Apprentice and Artisan Levels). Those in the Maestro level have a chance to eventually become part of the Stefano Bemer Shoemaking team. 2

Today, the name of Stefano Bemer is recognized as one of the most exclusive shoemakers in the world. The story began inauspiciously as Mr. Bemer started out in the leather trade and later began repairing shoes in Greve in Chianti in the early 1980 s before moving to Florence where he apprenticed with a traditional custom shoemaker for several years before opening his own workshop in 1987. His outlook on developing his trade was centered on learning from mistakes and adhering to time-honored tradition and technique. The production of an outstanding pair of bespoke shoes only can begin with the selection of the best leather and components. Beautiful leather skins are cut for the uppers, the leather skin for the soles and soaked in water for about twelve hours, then wrapped in paper and beaten on a stone with a hammer. This helps shape the leather s resistance and pliability, which in the end increase the shoe s comfort and longevity. The sewing thread used for the welt and sole is also made in-house. Stefano Bemer utilizes an ancient technique of twisting linen thread with pitch and beeswax. Lastly, the small amount of glue used is non-synthetic. When the shoes are completed, they arrive to the client in their own signature wooden box, marked with his initials. They also come with a set of shoes trees that are custom made to exactly fit the shoes they were made for, a pair of shoe bags, a tin of Stefano Bemer s custom shoe wax, its applying brush, a large dusting brush a crine lungo, and most importantly, a silver sixpence coin as a token for good luck. Today, at Stefano Bemer, we continue both to produce the best Bespoke and Ready To Wear shoes as well as train aspiring shoemakers in the traditions and dedication to quality that represents the cultural heritage of Stefano Bemer. 3

IN ASSOCIATION Scuola del Cuoio was created after World War II through the collaborative efforts of the Franciscan friars of the Monastery of Santa Croce and the Gori and Casini families, Florentine leather artisans since the 1930 s. Their mission was to give orphans of the war a means to learn a practical trade with which to earn a living. Santa Croce, with its strategic position along the banks of the Arno river, since the 13th century had been historically the district where the industries that required great quantities of water were concentrated. The tanners of via delle Conce and via dei Conciatori, just a few steps from the garden entrance of the Monastery and Scuola del Cuoio, were an important part of the Santa Croce neighborhood with the dyers of Corso dei Tintori and even the soap makers of via dei Saponai. The tanned hides were used for centuries for the leather manufacturing of the city and at the Monastery itself to cover the great manuscripts. Postwar, Scuola del Cuoio brought those traditions back to the Monastery. The unique location, the quality of its products and the commitment to tradition has made Scuola del Cuoio famous. Scuola del Cuoio today remains the largest genuine laboratory in the city where clients can witness the artisans create leather goods in the midst of centuries-old history. With the passing of Silvano Casini and Marcello Gori in 2003, two of the founding fathers of Scuola del Cuoio, today the original vision lives on through Marcello Gori s family as his three daughters, Laura, Francesca, and Barbara, and grandson Tommaso (Laura s son) manage the company and training programs. The Gori family continues to be committed to the great tradition of quality products and personal customer service which has allowed Scuola del Cuoio to establish a refined clientele worldwide Scuola Del Cuoio 4

Location: Stefano Bemer Academy Via San Niccolò 2 50125 Firenze (Italia) Training Duration: Apprentice Level: January 18 to April 8 2016 Artisan Level: April 11 to July 8 2016 (week off: june 13-17) Maestro Level: September 5 to November 25 2016 Attendance: Mandatory attendance; classes and workshop hours are Monday Friday from 10.30 AM to 1.30 PM and from 2.00 to 5.00 PM. Levels: Apprentice (introductory level) Artigiano (secondary level) Maestro (final level) Language: English or Italian Academic Requirements: High school diploma; A high-intermediate level of the English or Italian language sufficient to understand and participate in lessons(corresponding to level TOEFL 450); 18 years of age at moment of application. Number of participants: Enrollment is limited to 10 students. Program Level and Basic Description: This intensive three-month program is the introduction to basic techniques and methodology to make hand-made men s shoes. Students who complete this course may continue their studies in the Intermediate/Artisan course. This course is comprised of 360 hours, equivalent to 450 academic hours. 5

Apprentice Level Structure and Method Classes meet Monday through Friday with both morning and afternoon sessions. In addition, students will be working outside of class time on their projects. Homework includes individual and group works. This program is a hands-on, practical, old-masters approach to learning the artisan craft of shoemaking. Instructors are all professionals in the field who will impart both their theoretical and practical abilities as well as their real world experience as a shoemaker. Apprentice level fee: 6,800 (Vat included). If booked together with the second level (Artigiano), the price is 12,800 including an Italian Language course. Fees include: all class works, lessons, use of laboratories, and Vat tax. Not included: accommodation and meals, airfare, airport transfer and meals, particular equipping requested. Lesson Plan The approximate program curriculum for the introductory apprentice level include: 1) Artisan Techniques (70 hours), 2) Bespoke Shoemaking(20 hours), 3) Last Analysis and Last Making(70 hours), 4) Leather Cutting Techniques (20 hours), 5) Upper Stitching (20 hours). In addition there is also the Workshop Practicum where students will spend 160 hours. This is an introductory program for beginners (360 - divided between specific modules and supervised project completion in the workshop). Students should be motivated and focused on working in the field of hand-made shoemaking and be prepared to dedicate study and work time over and above the classroom times indicated in the course modules. Students must reach a sufficient level in terms of their knowledge and quality of technique in order to progress to the next level of the program. The Apprentice program level is composed of five phases of curriculum. The entire learning Process is guided by is with master craftsmen who are professional artisans selected by Stefano Bemer s staff. Each one of these introductory modules requires students to execute practice and project in the workshop where they will be supervised at all times. 6

Artisan Techniques Starting with the knowledge of shoemaking tools and the correct handling and use of show forms and tools, students will learn how to stretch the shoe model onto the form, the manipulation and contention of the shoe model, right before the sole shoe model is then stretched over the form and slowly manipulated and constructed, the sole attached and nailed and the materials completely assembled without machinery and in full respect of the health of the foot. Bespoke Shoemaking Students will learn the process of Bespoke shoemaking from the initial measurements to finishing touches according to Stefano Bemer s experience and traditional craft techniques. Last Analysis And Last Making Starting from the wooden last, participants analyze the shape, last, contour and proportions of the foot, as well as the influence that posture and movement have on shoemaking. Students will then practice cutting and developing lasts. Leather Cutting Techniques The study of different types of leather and their characteristics. Leather usage for specific shoe pieces (soles, upper, etc) depending on their thickness, softness and resistance and the techniques and methods for their correct cutting. Upper Stitching Having prepared and cut each shoe piece, they are then thinned or reinforced and prepared for assemblage and sewing. The methods of correct flat machine sewing are also studied. Working Practicum Students will work in a professional workshop (free workshop) practicing and perfecting the use of tools and techniques learned during the individual modules. Much of the workshop time is devoted to the completion of assignments and projects. Dates: January 18 to April 8, 2016 Artigiano Level After having successfully completed the Apprentice level, students are welcome to continue to the Artigiano level where they will upgrade and practice the skills acquired from the first module. Dates: April 11 to July 8, 2016 Maestro Level Students selected for the third module are individually assigned to a single maestro and will assist him on his activities day to day. Price and availability by specific individual evaluation of each candidate. Dates: September 5 to November 25, 2016 7

Commitment and motivation are the only pre-requisites we ask to our prospective students, for they will have to face an intensive (6 hours a day, 5 days a week) training program in order to become flags of Stefano Bemer s shoemaking philosophy. Either they develop their career by becoming part of our staff or they go their own way. Please note that, as opposed to any other school, we provide all the materials and tools throughout the course, with the only exception of the last project you would be working on, which is your own bespoke shoes (last and maerials for the project are selected by the students. A rough estimate of the cost is around 200 euros). To apply for enrollment or to request more information, please email us at: info@stefanobemer.com Stefano Bemer Via San Niccolò 2 50125 Firenze (Italia) Ph: +39.055.046.0476 Fax: +39.055.046.0477 info@stefanobemer.com www.stefanobemer.com P.Iva IT06321030485 Stefano Bemer Bespoke Shoemaker 8