McCall s M Misses'/Miss Petite Dresses and Belt

Transcription

1 JULY - PROJECT PATTERN OF THE MONTH McCall s M Misses'/Miss Petite Dresses and Belt Designed for Light to Medium- Weight Moderate Stretch Knits. MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE DRESSES AND BELT: Pullover dresses (close-fitting through bust) have narrow hem finish and hemline variations. B: shaped hemline, wrong side shows. D: belt. SUGGESTED FABRICS: Jerseys, Cotton Knit, Silk Spun Knit, Interlock. NOTIONS: A, B, C, D: Seam Binding. Marlene s suggestion for dress B is because the back has a shaped hemline that shows the wrong side of the fabric the wrong side of your chosen fabric needs to look as good as the right side of the fabric. 4. SF Seams - OVERLOCKING SEAMS 5. SF Seams - Stretch Fabric Seams - SEWING MACHINE 6. SF Stretch Fabric - SHOULDER SEAMS 7. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 8. ESS HEMMING - Narrow Curved Hem 9. SF Seams - Attaching Sleeves (Dress C & D) 1

2 VOGUE V8806 Misses' Dress Very Easy FABRICS: Lightweight Linen, Lightweight Crepe, Lightweight Double Knit. MISSES' DRESS: Fitted dress (semi-fitted through bust) has self-lined hood/bodice, side slits, front zipper and narrow hem. A: stitched hem on sleeves. A, B, C, D CUP SIZES. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. *With Nap. **Without Nap. NOTIONS: A, B: 22" Zipper. Marlene s comments: As the patterns are available in A, B, C, and D bust cup size it is a good pattern to choose, and will fit better than most patterns that only come in a B cup size. 1. ESS PRINCIPLES OF CUTTING 2. ESS TRANSFERRING MARKINGS 3. ESS SEAMS - Straight Seam 4. ESS PLAIN DARTS 5. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 6. ESS HEMMING - Narrow Machined Hem 7. ESS SLEEVES - Set in Sleave you could lengthen the sleeve if you wish to. Choose which if the zips applications you wish to use in your dress 8. SF Zips - Exposed Zip And Collar (just stop at the neckline) 9. ESS ZIPS - Invisible Zip Including A Yoke And Facing 10. SF. 06 Hoodie although this lesson is in the stretch fabrics section the basic technique is the same as for non- stretch fabric. 11. ESS Open Slit / Vent 2

3 V8629 Misses' Dress Very Easy Moderate Stretch Knit Only: MISSES' DRESS: Pullover, tapered dresses A, B, above mid-knee, have pleated front, side pockets, stitched hems and sleeve variations. A: shoulders extend to cap sleeves. B: dropped shoulders, three-quarter length sleeves. NOTIONS: 1 /2" Single Fold Bias Tape and 1 /2" Seam Binding. FABRICS: Moderate Stretch Knit Only: Lightweight Double Knit, Lightweight Jersey and Cotton Knit. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric to match plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics. *with nap. **without nap. Marlene s comments: This elegant dress is rated VERY EASY. If you don t want to sew the pockets you can leave them out. 4. ESS. 038 PLEATS 5. SF Stretch Fabric - SHOULDER SEAMS (required if the fabric will stretch and lengthen the shoulder seam) 6. ESS POCKETS - Side Seam Pocket 7. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 8. SF Hems - Topstitched Hem 9. SF Hems - Twin Needle Hem 10. SF Seams - Attaching Sleeves 3

4 Butterick B6048 Misses' Dress Easy Designed for Lightweight Woven Fabrics. MISSES' DRESS: Fitted, pullover dress has shoulder straps, back hemline slit and narrow hem. A and B: singlelayer overlay (wrong side shows), cut on crosswise grain, stitching line forms sleeve opening, and stitched and narrow hem finish. C: short sleeves. Designed for Lightweight Woven Fabrics. FABRICS: Crepe de Chine, Faille, Challis, Georgette * With Nap ** Without Nap Combinations: B5( ), F5( ) Marlene s suggestion for dress A & B is because the single- layer overlay shows the wrong side of the fabric the wrong side of your chosen fabric needs to look good. 1. ESS PRINCIPLES OF CUTTING 2. ESS TRANSFERRING MARKINGS 3. ESS SEAMS - Straight Seam 4. ESS FINISHING RAW EDGES Overlocking 5. ESS PLAIN DARTS 6. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 7. ESS FACING - A High Neck With A Centre Front Slits (I would suggest this lesson on adding a facing to a neckline, the principal is the same just ignore the slit and stich straight across the front. 8. ESS UNDERSTITCHING FACINGS 9. ESS HEMMING - Narrow Machined Hem 10. ESS Open Slit / Vent 4

5 Butterick B Misses'/Misses' Petite Dress Very Easy Moderate Stretch Knits Only: MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE DRESS: Close-fitting, straight dresses A, B, C, above mid-knee, have princess seams, contrast front and back, back zipper and optional topstitching. A: sleeveless. B: contrast, self-lined cap sleeves with pleats. C: long sleeves. NOTIONS: Dress A, B, C: 22" Zipper, Hooks and Eyes. FABRICS: Dress A, B, C: Moderate Stretch Knits Only. Double Knit. Unsuitable for obvious diagonals. Allow extra fabric to match plaids or stripes. Use nap yardages/layouts for pile, shaded or one-way design fabrics. *with nap. **without nap. Combinations: BB( ), FF( ) Marlene s comments: The contrasting fabrics, used in this dress create a slimming silhouette.. 4. SF Seams - OVERLOCKING SEAMS 5. SF Seams - Stretch Fabric Seams - SEWING MACHINE 6. SF Stretch Fabric - SHOULDER SEAMS 7. ESS Seams - PRINCESS SEAM 8. ESS MACHINE STITCHING - Top Stitching (if you wish to use topstitching) 9. SF Zips - Invisible Zip In Stretch Fabric 10. ESS FACING - A High Neck With A Centre Front Slits (I would suggest this lesson on adding a facing to a neckline, the principal is the same just ignore the slit and stich straight across the front. 11. SF Seams - ATTACHING SLEEVES 12. ESS Open Slit / Vent (Optional if required for ease of walking) 13. ESS HEMMING - Slipstitch - hand stitched Hem 5

6 K3932 Misses' Colour-block Dresses Moderate to Advance This Fitted dress is colour blocked and made from three different coloured fabrics. It has a round neckline finished with facing, and centre back zipper. View A has a cut on cap sleeves finished with bindings. View B has three- quarter length sleeves, (you could lengthen it). FABRICS: Designed for stretch knits only with 20% stretch across the grain. Suggested Fabrics: Double knit, Ponte, jersey. Pattern includes 1 4" (6 mm) seam allowances. Marlene s suggestion is that although the pattern only has a 1 4" (6 mm) seam allowances, which is ideal for Overlocking/Serger sewing, cut a 1cm to, 1.5cm (⅜" to ⅝ ") seam if you are using a regular sewing machine stitch on the seams. and the pattern you have chosen The Suggested Lessons required to sew this dress are. (You decide how many of the lessons below you will need; also there may be other techniques you like to use.) 1. ESS PRINCIPLES OF CUTTING 2. ESS TRANSFERRING MARKINGS 3. SF Working With Stretch Fabric 4. SF Seams - OVERLOCKING SEAMS 5. SF Seams - Stretch Fabric Seams - SEWING MACHINE 6. ESS PLAIN DARTS 7. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 8. ESS FACING - A High Neck With A Centre Front Slits (I would suggest this lesson on adding a facing to a neckline, the principal is the same just ignore the slit and stich straight across the front. 9. ESS SEAMS - Concave/Convex (Inward And Outward) Seam Choose which if the zips applications you wish to use in your dress 10. ESS ZIPS - Lapped Zip 11. ESS ZIPS - Invisible Zip Including A Yoke And Facing 12. ESS SLEEVES - Set in Sleave 13. ESS HEMMING - Slipstitch - hand stitched Hem 6

7 K Pull-Over Dress & Tunic Very Easy DESIGNED FOR STRETCH KNITS ONLY WITH 35% STRETCH ACROSS THE GRAIN Suggested Fabrics: Interlock, matte jersey, textured knits, lightweight sweater knits. Skirts also in lightweight soft woven fabrics. Misses' pull- over dress and tunic have very close fitting tank style bodice and gathered skirt. Neckline and armholes have self- fabric bindings. View A dress has skirt seam under bust. View B tunic has skirt seam above bust and skirt is from contrast fabric. Marlene s suggestion is This is a very good dress for a beginner to start with; you could wear it with a long sleeved knitted top or T- shirt underneath.. 4. SF Stretch Fabric - SHOULDER SEAMS (required if the fabric will stretch and lengthen the shoulder seam) 5. SF Necklines - Ribbed Binding 6. ESS FACINGS using Bias Binding 7. ESS. 029 GATHERING 8. ESS HEMMING - Narrow Machined Hem 7