How Different Flours Perform. Didier Rosada SFBI Head Instructor

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1 New Program &New Home Michel Suas SFBI Founder We are happy to announce that SFBI the only school in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to artisan baking will soon be moving to a nearby location three times the size of our current facilities. Our new 10,000 square foot building includes two large classrooms, a lab, a library and a cafeteria. We are very excited about this opportunity to give our students and visitors an even more comfortable and technologically advanced environment in which to experience artisan baking at its best. Our move comes just in time for the new 14 Week Intensive Training program we are offering starting in April (You can read more about it beginning on page 5.) Designed with the European model of apprenticeship and training in mind, the 14-week program gives students all the skills they need to qualify as skilled professional bakers. The program includes two weeks of training in Rouen, France, where students will be introduced to artisan baking in the European tradition. SFBI The San Francisco Baking Institute 390 Swift Avenue, #13 South San Francisco, CA phone fax RISING THE SAN FRANCISCO BAKING INSTITUTE FALL WHAT S 2002 continued on page seven How Different Flours Perform Didier Rosada SFBI Head Instructor As we all know, flour is the most important ingredient of the dough. Flour because of its origin, process and characteristics is also one of the most sensitive ingredients. Its baking performance can be effected by a myriad of factors, such as the type of wheat used, protein content, ash content, treatments and aging. Millers, in order to classify flours and give more indications about their characteristics, compile a flour specification sheet to provide information about the type of wheat used, protein content, ash content and treatments. Only a baking test allows a baker to define the subtle changes that occur with every type of flour. As bakers, we can gain much valuable information from these specification sheets, including analytical data such as alveograph or farinograph values. Of course, bread characteristics like crust, crumb color and flavor are not provided with these specification sheets. Only a baking test allows the baker to define these subtle changes that occur with every type of flour. what s rising this season... 14Week Training Program Begins in April...Sign up by February 2003! Baking Performance of Flours Baker s Tip and Recipe New 2003 Class Schedule! Recently, we decided to explore the relationship between the flour specification sheets and the quality of the final product. To do so, we used eight different flours sold as Artisan Flour all within the same protein range and ash content. Five samples were from the Bay Area.Three samples were the same flour brand but sold in different areas of the U.S. East Coast, Midwest and West Coast (#5, #6, #7: See chart on page 4. ) Because we were comparing for educational purposes only, we did not use brand names, but instead labeled the flours by number. continued on page four where better baking begins 1

2 Baker s Tip: The Power Of Salt from Didier Rosada Benoitons Recipe In addition to improving bread flavor, salt is useful in controlling the activity of preferments. When a preferment, such as poolish or sponge, is maturing too quickly due to warmer temperatures, adding.2 to.3% salt is just enough to slow down activity without interfering with aroma. Just remember that when the quantity of salt in the final dough is calculated, the amount of salt used in the preferment must be considered. Rich in hazelnuts and raisins, these delicious rolls are the perfect way to celebrate the fall season with your customers. The combination of the toasted nuts and sweetness of the dried fruit will make a perfect accompaniment for blue cheese, fruit platters, or simply as a snack anytime during the day. When a stiff levain is becoming liquid or mushy in the center, this is a sign of undesirably intense enzyme activity (protease) between feedings. As little as.1% of salt incorporated during the feeding of the culture will be enough to noticeably slow down the protease of the flour and bring your sourdough culture to a normal consistency without interfering with the microorganism activity of the sourdough. Ingredients Baker s % Total Quantity Levain Final Dough Flour 60 6 Lbs. 1.2 Lbs. 4.8 Lbs. Rye flour 40 4 Lbs. 4 Lbs. Water 70 7 Lbs..6 Lbs. 6.4 Lbs. Yeast (fresh).4.04 Lbs Lbs. Starter 6.6 Lbs..6Lbs. --- From the Rolling Pin Forum Didier Rosada Answers Your Baking Questions Question: Salt 2.2 Lbs Lbs. After many years of practice, my rye bread usually turns out very Hazelnuts (toasted) Lbs Lbs. well, but I cannot achieve a nice, really crisp crust.the crust is always Raisins (moistened) Lbs Lbs. rather soft. I steam the oven, I use a baking stone and the bread Levain Lbs. thumps when done. But I never get a crispy, crackly crust. Total Dough Lbs. 2.4 Lbs Lbs. Answer: Procedure Try to bake your rye at a decreasing temperature and open the oven Sourdough Mixing Mix until ingredients are well incorporated door at the end of the bake for about 10 to 15 minutes. This will SFBI Fermentation Ferment 8 hours at F allow the crust to dry out and stay crispy as the bread cools down. Final dough Mixing 1 st speed: 4 5 minutes (soft dough consistency) Mixing 2 nd speed: Improved mix (gluten half developed) If you have a baking question, visit us at Desired dough temperature 75 to 77 F First fermentation 2 hours and go to the Rolling Pin Forum under the Forums and Divide: 3oz rolls Links section of our site. Rest Time: 15 to 20 minutes Shape: Round shape Proof: One and a half hour on dusted linen Scoring Lightly dust with flour and create a cross with the blade on top of the crust Bake: 460 F for 15 to 20 minutes 2

3 register early for our upcoming classes december 2002 Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday home baker class 7 Baking with Organic Flour Naturally Leavened Whole Grain Breads Baking with Organic Flour Naturally Leavened Whole Grain Breads Baking with Organic Flour Naturally Leavened Whole Grain Breads Baking with Organic Flour Baking with Organic Flour Holiday Baking for Parent and Child Artisan I: Baking Fundamental Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Breakfast Pastry Breakfast Pastry Breakfast Pastry Breakfast Pastry january 2003 Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Breakfast Pastry Sunday Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Chocolate Cakes Galore Advanced Breads:for the Experienced Baker Chocolate Cakes Galore Advanced Breads:for the Experienced Baker Chocolate Cakes Galore Advanced Breads:for the Experienced Baker Chocolate Cakes Galore Advanced Breads:for the Experienced Baker february 2003 Chocolate Cakes Galore Advanced Breads: for the Experienced Baker

4 Flour description continued from page one Testing Procedure To preserve the integrity of the flour, a straight dough with no preferment was used. Since preferments improve flour baking performance, it is assumed that if a flour performs well with no preferment, it will perform better with preferment. A: Formula Flour 100% Water 65% Yeast 1.5% Salt 2% B: Process Mixing In order to duplicate the mixing method most widely used in the artisan baking industry, the improved mix technique, in which the gluten structure is not fully developed, was used. Targeted dough temperature was 75 to 77 degrees F. First Fermentation One hour and 30 minutes at room temperature (75 to 78 degrees F) Dividing 350 grams (12 oz) Preshaping -Round for batard shape -Rectangle for baguette shape -Resting time: 20 to 25 minutes -Shaping: Hand shaping for this test How Different Flours Perform, cont. Flours Protein Ash P G P/L W Falling Number Organic Control No # No # Yes # No # No # No # No # No # No Final Proof One hour for half of the loaves; One hour and 30 minutes for the other half Baking 25 minutes at 470 degrees F Evaluation Evaluation of the flour baking characteristics was made during the whole baking process on the dough and after cooling on the bread. Dough Evaluation Hydration: Percentage of water necessary to reach a specific dough consistency Mixing Dough extensibility and dough elasticity were assessed at the end of the mixing time.mixing time is also taken into consideration, as it will affect bread characteristics if dramatically longer (crumb color and flavor). Shaping Dough extensibility and dough elasticity are evaluated during the shaping process. Final Proof Fermentation activity in the dough and tension of the dough are judged at the end of the first final proof (after one hour) and at the end of the second final proof (after one hour and 30 minutes) Final Product Evaluation -Crumb -Color, cell structure, tenderness -Crust -Color, crispiness and cuts openings -Volume of the bread -Breads are compared to each other after baking Flavor Taste and After Taste Fermentation Tolerance This is a very important value for the baker. The product characteristics (appearance in particular) are evaluated after the two final proof times. If the products look the same, or even better, after 30 extra minutes of final proof time, fermentation tolerance is judged good. If the product looks worse after one and a half hours of proofing compared to the one with only one hour of proofing time, then fermentation tolerance is judged as insufficient. In summary, if a baker is late in his production one day and the bread goes in the oven later than expected, product quality will vary based on the fermentation tolerance of the flour. As we all know, delays in production do happen, as hard as we may try to prevent them.this is why fermentation tolerance is so important. Results of the Baking Test Hydration Average hydration is 67%. However, flour #5 absorbed 70% water while flour #2 took only 65% to obtain the same dough consistency. Technically, dough characteristics might not be effected. However, shelf life might be a little bit shorter. More important, this could have a significant impact from an economical point of view, since a lower dough yield will be obtained if the hydration is lower. continued on page eight 4

5 new New! Intensive 14 Week Training Program Bread & Pastry Our new 14 week intensive courses are unique in baking education.we offer you an opportunity you won t find anywhere else the chance to begin a career in artisan baking with just 14 weeks of hands-on, intensive training from some of the most respected instructors in the United States. The small, hands-on classes at The San Francisco Baking Institute give you an uncommon opportunity to learn by doing. Our emphasis is on teaching skills you can bring to jobs in the real world. Our progressive program concentrates on the fundamentals and advanced techniques of artisan baking and pastry in a fast-paced creative environment. As the only school in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to artisan baking, The San Francisco Baking Institute is the place where better baking begins. Who Benefits from Intensive 14 Week Training? Working bakers who want to enhance their careers and salaries by making a serious commitment to learning new skills. Bakeries, restaurants, hotels, and supermarkets that know the value of investing in better trained employees. Beginning bakers and people changing jobs who are interested in a rewarding baking career. Train at Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France for 2 weeks of program! (Visit for more information about the school.) Where do I go when I need to learn more about baking, or to share what I know? SFBI! I love that place - a church for baking. Craig Ponsford Owner,Artisan Bakers of Sonoma, Sonoma, CA President, Bread Bakers Guild of America Program Description SFBI s new long program consists of 14 weeks of intensive training, including 2 weeks spent at Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France. Our curriculum gives you everything you need to become a competent and skilled professional in baking and pastry from sanitation and equipment knowledge to actual production methods and techniques. Our 14 week program is uniquely focused and concentrated, with more hours of training per day than typical training programs. Although a standard certification is not provided, a diploma from SFBI acts as a powerful tool for your job search because of SFBI s reputation in the baking industry. General Information Tuition includes one meal per day and all expenses for studying in France excluding airfare. Tuition with provided housing: $22,300 Tuition without housing: $17,500 The primary instructors are Didier Rosada, Jeff Yankellow and Philippe Le Corre Guest instructors include Volker Baumann, Craig Ponsford, Michel Suas, and others to be announced soon. continued on page six 5

6 Long Program Curriculum Overview Week One The first week of training will introduce you to SFBI and the baking profession. Sanitation and proper manufacturing practices will be presented by a certified instructor.you will learn general baking terminology and the basics of bakery equipment and ingredients. Proper scaling techniques and measuring practices will be addressed, along with baker's math. Baker s percents Sanitation and Hygiene Equipment identification and usage Ingredient identification and selection Week Two This week, you will roll up your sleeves and start hands-on practice while learning the fundamentals and science of the bread making process.you will begin to understand the relationship between mixing and fermentation and learn the proper use of mixing equipment.the standard steps of bread baking will be reviewed in detail. You will practice beginner shaping techniques and begin to learn what characteristics are desirable in a properly baked loaf of artisan bread. Relationship between mixing and fermentation The science of bread Differences between short mix, improved mix, and intensive mix Flour selection and the milling process Enzymes in flour Standard steps of baking Product evaluation Week Five with Guest Instructor Volker Baumann Volker Bauman will be our guest instructor this week to introduce you to the art and science of German breads. The last two days of the week will include trips to a flour mill and flour testing facility. Rye flour selection and evaluation German methods of bread baking using sourdough rye Use and application of the farinograph and alveograph Visiting a flour mill and testing facility Week Six Learn how to create a variety of specialty breads.you will bake French and Italian breads, including Panettone, Pan d Oro, and the classic Miche. Breads with the addition of secondary ingredients will be practiced, including Olive Bread,Walnut Raisin, and Sesame Semolina. Using an Italian starter Regional French and Italian specialties bread Decorative shaping techniques Week Seven American and European style breakfast pastries will be our focus this week. Lamination will be covered in detail. You will produce Croissants, Danish, Brioche and Sweet Rolls. We will conduct comparison tests to evaluate the best methods and ingredients. Quick breads will also be covered, including Muffins, Loaf Breads and Scones. Lamination using single and double folds Fat selection for lamination Quick breads using rubbing method, creaming method, and blending method Week Eight This week, you will be immersed in the world of retail baking. Learn all about the classic American and rustic European pastries that are popular staples in most retail bakeries.you will produce Cookies, Pies, Brownies,Tarts and Rustic Cakes. Students will thoroughly practice hands-on with standard doughs including, Pate Brise, Pate Sucre and Puff Pastry. I have sent key production managers to various bread and pastry courses at SFBI. They have returned energized and feeling more confident with their abilities to take the quality of our products even higher; able to identify and correct problems with our processes and strengthen the knowledge of our crews, making them more productive." JT, Semifreddi s Bakery 6 Week Three This week, we will build upon the fundamentals of the baking process. Students will use preferments and evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each type. You will make bread using alternative varieties of flour such as whole wheat and rye and learn about enriched dough made with eggs, sugar, and fat. We will conduct an initial testing and evaluation of each students' knowledge and technical ability. Use of preferments including poolish, sponge, biga, and levain Bread using multiple flours and grains Enriched doughs and the proper mixing technique when using secondary ingredients such as eggs, milk, and sugar Week Four You will learn all about sourdough, including topics such as: starting a starter, maintaining a consistent culture, and controlling the starter to get specific characteristics.you will use stiff and liquid starters and compare results.the retarding process will be covered and a variety of formulas will be mixed and delayed in various forms. Production planning and scheduling will be reviewed. Natural starters and the sourdough process Starting a starter and maintaining a healthy culture Advantages of using natural starters in baking The effects of wild yeasts and bacteria Effects of hydration, climate, and feeding schedule on the final product Scheduling of real life production scenarios Week Nine We will start this week with an intensive focus on savory pastries.you will use yeasted and non-yeasted dough to prepare a variety of savory items frequently offered in today's bakeries. Products will include, Pizza, Quiche and Various Finger Foods. The end of this week will introduce cake mixing and baking.numerous techniques and products will be covered.you will practice all of the standard cake mixing techniques. Standard sauces and fillings used with savory pastry Marriage of cooking and baking Cake mixing using creaming method, foaming method, chiffon method, angel food method, and modified method Week Ten Further skills and product from the previous week to prepare classic cakes and creams. Creams, fillings, and glazes will be covered. This week will include finishing and decorating. At the conclusion of the week students will prepare and assemble a finished wedding cake. Cake and cream mise en place and assembly Buttercream technology Cooked creams and fillings Design and finishing of decorated cakes Glazing techniques Week Eleven

7 This week will cover petit four production and plated desserts. Students will learn the skills for making miniature pastries and creative ways to present them to guests.they will also learn how to prepare classic and contemporary desserts that are well suited for serving as an individual portion and the fundamentals of presenting and garnishing them properly. Production and presentation methods Flavor combination and principals of taste Sauce preparation and garnishing techniques Week Twelve and Week Thirteen Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France These two weeks will be spent at the Institut National de la Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France. All expenses are included, excluding airfare. Topics will include bread, sugar and chocolate, ice cream and showpieces. Students will get a first hand look at baking and pastry in Europe through classroom study and bakery tours.this is a trip every aspiring baker should make back to the homeland of authentic artisan baking. Immerse yourself in the culture of the European baker; bring home a sense of professional pride and broaden your knowledge of baking history. Week Fourteen A guest speaker will introduce you to everything you need to know about equipment selection, bakery design and layout. Students will use and demonstrate all the skills they have learned. Four days of the week will involve student projects in preparation for a grand buffet to display the products on graduation day.the last day of the week will be a graduation ceremony with a viewing of the completed work. Letter from Michel, cont. SFBI s new program is a major step in providing training that will match the European programs that have successfully trained bakers for many years. Students who complete the program will be competent to work in any bakery or pastry kitchen. If you are a bakery owner,we encourage you to support our new program and help your business by sending one of your employees to our classroom. The investment of time and cost will benefit your bakery immediately and in the long-term. When you encourage young people who show an interest to pursue a career as a baker or pastry chef and push them to reach the top levels of the profession through education and practical experience you are giving yourself more excited, motivated employees and helping the future of the industry as a whole. We are looking forward to welcoming all of our 2003 students to our brand new facility and welcome you, as always, to keep in touch with us should you have any questions or comments. Michel Suas, SFBI Founder HOW TO APPLY FOR THE 14 WEEK INTENSIVE TRAINING PROGRAM Call and ask for an application and information packet to be mailed to you. Or, tear out this form and mail it to:the San Francisco Baking Institute 390 Swift Avenue, #13 South San Francisco, CA or fax to us at You can also visit our website for complete information about our curriculum and an on-line application. NAME COMPANY ADDRESS CITY STATE ZIP PHONE ( ) FAX ( ) BAKING EXPERIENCE SFBI Instructors HEAD INSTRUCTOR Didier Rosada Didier Rosada began baking at the age of 15 in France, where he attended a regional professional school and apprenticed under a local baker. He was awarded the Brevet de Matrise from the Institut National de Boulangerie Patisserie in Rouen, France, and in 1996 he became the unofficial trainer for the Baking Team USA, which took first place in the bread category at the Coup du Monde de la Boulangerie. For the past several years, he has helped train the world champion Baking Team USA for the Coup du Monde in Paris. Didier was most recently a baking instructor at The National Baking Center in Minneapolis before joining us as Head Instructor at SFBI. BAKING & PASTRY INSTRUCTOR Philippe Le Corre Philippe Le Corre studied for three years at the school run by the famous Gaston Lenotre in Paris. After finishing first in his class, Philippe stayed on at Lenotre for three more years as head of a production team that prepared product for the company's upscale pastry shops. He came to the United States in 1984 to lead the pastry and baking programs for the Sofitel Hotel Group s American properties and later for the Minneapolis Hilton. Before joining SFBI, Philippe was the baking and pastry instructor at The National Baking Center since its inception in BAKING & PASTRY INSTRUCTOR Jeff Yankellow Originally from Baltimore, MD, Jeff started his culinary career as a high school student, cooking in local restaurants. In 1996, he received a degree in Culinary Arts and Foodservice Management from Johnson & Wales University in Providence, RI, and continued to cook in Baltimore and Chicago for three years after graduating. Jeff decided to pursue an interest in baking with a focus on Artisan Breads and Viennoiserie. He worked at several bakeries in the Maryland area; completed a 6 month internship at The National Baking Center in Minneapolis; and worked as a baker in Minneapolis before joining SFBI as a staff instructor. 7

8 How Different Flours Perform, cont. Volume All the bread had a very similar volume except for flour #2, which produced bread with a noticeably lower volume. continued from page four Dough Characteristics At Mixing All of the flours we tested provided dough with a good balance between extensibility and elasticity. This was somewhat expected since the protein level is very similar. Only dough # 4 showed a slight lack of extensibility (stronger dough) at the end of the mixing. Mixing times were very similar for all the dough, except for dough #4, which required a longer mixing to reach the same gluten development. Dough #2 showed some stickiness at the end of mixing. Dough Characteristics at Shaping Flours #1, #3 and #5 had a good balance between extensibility and elasticity. This allowed for very easy shaping. Dough #2 and #4 were a bit too extensible and tended to be porous and sticky.this could be the sign of some degradation of the gluten as fermentation progresses (when gluten degrades, some proteins liberate water that migrates to the surface of the dough, increasing its stickiness) Crumb Characteristics Flour #1 provided a crumb with the best creamy color. # 4, #5, #6 and #7 were less creamy but still acceptable, while # 8 was so creamy that it almost looked artificial. Crumb of the bread made with flour #3 was on the grayish side (higher ash content) and #2 was on the green side. Both of these flours had an inferior color pattern compared to #1. Cell structure of the crumb was on the tight side for all of the breads, but this is normal for this type of baking process. However, flour #2 had very tight and very dense crumb. Crumb of bread #2 was not as tender but very rubbery. Crust color and crispiness were very similar in all of the bread. However, we noticed a darker crust color on breads made with flour #4. Cut openings were nice on all the breads, except on the ones made with flour #2, where cuts didn t open as much. Fermentation Tolerance Very good fermentation tolerance with flours #1, #3, #4, #7 and #8. Dough # 5 was not as good, however the breads were still acceptable. Flour #2 had a poor fermentation tolerance (poor appearance of the bread after one and a half-hour of final proof). Flavor Flavor is a very subjective topic, so we evaluated with a panel rather than just one person.the results were as follows: # 1: Complex, more round flavor.the preferred flavor for all the bread tasted # 2:Very bitter flavor.the least preferred flavor # 3: Good overall but with an off taste in the crust # 4: Slightly bitter taste in the crust # 5: Good overall but neutral taste # 6: Good overall # 7: Good overall # 8: Good overall In Conclusion The results of this simple test show how bread characteristics may be affected depending on the flour that we use, even if the dough characteristics are very similar. Secondly, all of the dough was made with no preferment. Certainly, baking performances would have been improved by involving some pre-fermentation in the process. But, as mentioned earlier, if the flour performs well with no preferment, it will perform even better when using one. Finally, even if the numbers look the same (or are very close) on the specification sheet, bread characteristics such as crumb, crust, volume and flavor may be very different.this is why a baking test remains the best way to assess flour baking performance. To confirm the result of our tests made here at the SFBI and get more precise information about the flour baking performances we sent the same flour samples to Eurogerm, a French company specializing in cereal works such as wheat and flour testing, dough conditioners and enzyme technology. Our goals included comparing the performances of the U.S. flours with a control flour from France. The method used for the testing is a standard flour testing procedure used in France. This method is similar to the one described earlier in this article. However, a main difference must be noted: the mixing process is an intensive mix (gluten fully developed) and the first fermentation time is only 20 minutes. The reason behind the use of this method in France is to avoid helping the flour by allowing some long fermentation time after mixing that would naturally improve strength and fermentation tolerance. continued on page nine 8

9 How Different Flours Perform, cont. continued from page eight A more complete flavor assessment was also performed after the baking of the bread using very precise parameters (describing different flavor profile like nutty taste, toasted taste, yeasted taste, fruity taste.) Eurogerm developed this flavor evaluation procedure after intensive research and the method is now recognized by most of the French baking industry. Results from Eurogerm On the Dough Side Results were very similar to the SFBI internal test. However, French flour received a better note on dough extensibility at the shaping and fermentation tolerance compared to the samples from U.S. On the Bread Side This is where the results of the test are the most interesting. In terms of volume, all the U.S. flours except sample #2 had a superior volume in the final product. Crust crispiness was described as soft for all the American flour except for sample # 8.The control was judged as crispy. The crust color was evaluated as too excessive for all U.S. samples. This may be explained by the higher protein content generating a stronger Maillard reaction during baking. Flavor was evaluated using two parameters: aroma and taste.the main aroma found in samples from France and U.S. samples #1, #4, #5, #6, #7 and #8 was described as beurre noisette or buttery-nutty aroma. Aroma from sample # 2 was qualified as toasted-bitter. The preponderant taste was also described as beurre noisette for sample # 1, #6, #7 and #8. Flavor from samples # 3, #4, and #5 was judged as neutral while # 2 was described as yeasty flavor. Conclusion Some interesting conclusions can be made from these tests. Again, our goal was not really to compare French and U.S. flours, but the results have shown that despite some minor difference in the dough characteristics (lack of extensibility), some U.S. flours can produce quality breads. Sample # 8, for example, had the same notation compared to the French control flour. However, some flour sold as flour for Artisan Baking in U.S. wouldn t even be considered as bread flour in France (sample # 2), due to its lack of baking quality (on the dough side and final product appearance). The most noticeable difference could be in the strength of the dough. Due to higher protein content, U.S. flours produce, in general, stronger dough.the baker could improve this by using autolyse in his process or preferment with a liquid consistency like poolish or liquid sourdough, since their high water content favors the proteolytic activity of the flour. The other difference is in the crispiness. Not much could be done during the baking process to improve this problem. Ascorbic acid is known to dry out the crust and very slightly improve crispiness. However, its use must be carefully monitored. An excess of ascorbic acid will definitively create strong dough very difficult to work with. Finally, the samples of the same flour sold in different areas of the U.S. produced bread with similar characteristics.the minor differences between them could be explained by the availability of different classes of wheat within the area where the flour is milled. For example, the West Coast sample generated dough with a noticeable lack of extensibility. This is due to the stronger winter wheat largely available in this area and widely used by the milling industry. In the last five to seven years, because of better communication between miller and baker, the artisan baker has much more choice regarding flour selection. In the last five to seven years, because of better communication between miller and baker, the artisan baker has much more choice regarding flour selection. Nowadays, some good flours for Artisan Baking are available in the United States.The skill of a baker who understands how to work and transform this flour into bread has a tremendous impact on the final product quality. On the other hand, our tests have demonstrated that despite the fact that some flours are marketed as Artisan Flour, their baking performances don t really live up to this statement. Regardless of what is on the bag or the specification sheet, a baker should always perform a quick baking test using a standardized method or his favorite formula to see if the selected flour will be providing optimum performance during the baking process. 9

10 10 New! CLASS SCHEDULE 2003 Artisan I and II: The Essentials of Artisan Baking Series Our most popular workshops, Artisan I and Artisan II attract students from around the country who share a desire to learn the fundamentals and artistry of authentic artisan bread baking. Both novices and seasoned professionals tell us that they leave our workshops better bakers than when they arrived! The courses can be taken separately or consecutively. During each five day session, you learn and practice core baking processes and techniques you need to become a skilled, knowledgeable baker. Our emphasis is on hands-on learning; we deliberately keep our class sizes small to allow for personal instruction and experimentation.as the only school in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to artisan baking, we believe our continuing education courses offer you an exceptional experience in an environment where baking never takes a back seat to other culinary learning. Artisan I: Baking Fundamentals Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; Sign up for both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10% off the second class - Total price: $1,805 As a student in Artisan I, you will become familiar with the terms short mix, improved mix and intensive mix while learning what types of flour you should be using and the proper mixing techniques for every bread imaginable. Through demonstration and discussion, you will learn the relationship between mixing and fermentation;how the profile of bread changes when you add an additional ingredient such as butter or sugar; overall knowledge about the most common preferments used in bakeries today;and how to use baker's math,along with much more.we use the classic baguette to teach the fundamentals, but you will also learn to make Rye Bread, Whole Wheat Bread, Multigrain Bread, Pan Bread and Braided Egg Bread.The skills you learn in this class are directly applicable for a position in a professional bakery or for a serious home baker.when you finish this class, you will be able to write recipes instead of following them! Limited to 12 to allow for personal instruction, spots fills up quickly so reserve early. Be sure to consider our dates for the Artisan II workshop, scheduled to allow you 2 consecutive weeks of intensive training. January 13 - January 17 March 10 - March 14 June 9 - June 13 July 28 - August 1 October 20 - October 24 Artisan II: Mastering Sourdough Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; ; Sign up for both Artisan I and Artisan II and save 10% off the second class - Total price: $1,805 Building on the the skills you gained in Artisan I,Artisan II takes you full speed ahead into the world of sourdough bread.to become a truly skilled baker, you must learn how to control sourdough and not let the sourdough control you! Unravel the complex world of wild yeast and bacteria; start your own sourdough starter; adjust the feeding schedule and take your own version of the starter home. Experiment with different styles of starters and fermentation. The extensive hands-on portion of this 5-day workshop includes sourdough breads made with liquid and stiff starters, Olive Bread, Raisin Bread, Ciabatta with a poolish and many other favorites.if you are serious about becoming a better baker, this is a class that you do not want to miss! We encourage you to take Artisan I before enrolling in Artisan II unless you already have a thorough understanding of baking fundamentals. January 20 - January 24 March 17 - March 21 June 16 - June 20 August 4 - August 8 October 27 - October 31 A good balance between theory and hands-on. SFBI Student Advanced Breads: Techniques and Experimentation for the Experienced Baker Five Day Course with Didier Rosada; This newly adapted version of Advanced Artisan Breads is designed for experienced bakers interested in refining their skills and deepening their overall knowledge to become even better at their craft. During this illuminating workshop for those who love their profession, you will learn about and practice a variety of interesting breads using advanced methods. You will experiment with ways to fit new breads into an existing product line with fresh techniques such as sourdough to make sweet breads and miche using high ash flour and 230% (!) starter.whole grain breads will be produced using whole grain starters and no white flour.you will work with difficult flours such as rye and spelt. Retarding techniques will be demonstrated with Baguettes and Ciabatta retarded before shaping, and Whole Wheat retarded after shaping. Because this more advanced class is not designed for beginning bakers, students need to have taken Artisan I and II or have extensive experience and a thorough understanding of the baking process, including science and terminology. Experienced bakers will be inspired by the newfound understanding and marketable skills they take away from this seminar! February 10 - February 14 August 11- August 15 Breakfast Pastry Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; In this essential class for the aspiring pastry chef, you will learn how to create beautiful and delicious breakfast pastries to enhance your product line and excite your customers! Expert pastry chef Philippe Le Corre will introduce you to ingredients selection, fermentation options and lamination techniques in a hands-on environment with lots of opportunity for practice and personal instruction. Students will learn how to use one dough to create multiple products - croissant dough will be used to make classic croissants, chocolate croissants and almond croissants. Different shaping techniques will be demonstrated for Danish to allow you to maximize the selection and variety from one dough.you will learn the classic technique for making Brioche and discover how to use it for individual Brioche a Tete and raisin rolls. Find out how a sweet roll dough can be used to make a variety of specialties, including cinnamon rolls and sticky buns. In addition to yeasted treats, Philippe will teach you how to make not just one, but four different kinds of puff pastry! They include Traditional French, Inverse, Blitz and Italian. See the differences in each and how they can be used for different items. You will make creams that complement Croissants, Danish and rich yeasted dough, learn about preferments selection and bakers percentage calculation and leave the class with a whole new set of skills and techniques for producing classic breakfast pastries. January 27 - January 31 July 14 - July 18 Didier is a masterful teacherpatient and knowledgeable. SFBI Student

11 Chocolate Cakes Galore Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; Still the most popular item in American bakeries, Chocolate Cakes are a necessary staple for the modern baker and a dessert that lends itself to endless variations. In this workshop, you will learn all the secrets for making mouth-watering and beautiful chocolate cakes that will keep your customers coming back for more! Practice hands-on as you explore the many varieties of chocolates you can use - white, dark and milk chocolates - and become familiar with the complex textures and flavors of this classic favorite.try your hand at an array of frosting and decorating techniques and learn how to prepare dazzling presentations that will tempt and satisfy. February 3 - February 7 Petit Fours and Upscale Cookies Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; Become an expert in the profitable art of creating upscale cookies and petit fours. Join us for this intensive hands-on exploration of production and decorating techniques, presentation skills and packaging of small scale delicacies with large scale profits! Attract more hotel/catering business, or increase your value as a baker to the hospitality industry with the skills you acquire in this creative and exciting workshop. Phillippe will focus on a wide variety of products from the traditional to the nouveau. March 17 - March 21 Rustic Pastries Five Day Course with Philippe LeCorre Rustic pastries are more popular then ever and can help you expand your product line in delicious and appealing ways that your customers will appreciate! In this hands-on workshop, Philippe will teach you how to create delicious and beautiful rustic pastries to add interest and profit to your bakery s selection.you will experiment with a variety of choices, including traditional pastry items from Europe - particularly Italy and France. March 24 - March 28 October 6 - October 10 Cakes and Creams Five Day Course with Philippe Le Corre; If you are interested in building a foundation based on classic European pastry techniques or refining the skills you already have, this class is for you. Our comprehensive cakes and creams workshop with expert pastry chef Philippe Le Corre will add new layers of competence to your skills. Instead of just learning recipes you will learn techniques. Philippe will teach you how to prepare the basic cakes and fillings used in French pastry and then teach you how they can be assembled and cross-utilized to create a number of finished cakes, just as you would do in production kitchen. New! CLASS SCHEDULE 2003 Philippe will introduce you to cake mixing technology for sponge cake, chiffons, creaming and foaming and will show you how to make a wide variety of creams such as Chiboust, Mousseline and Buttercreams. During the significant handson portion of the class, you will create a wide variety of beautiful cakes including Bittersweet Mousse Cake, Strawberry Fraisier, St. Honore and Hazelnut Nougatine Cake. Philippe will start with the basics, so everyone is welcome, with or without experience. July 7- July 11 October 13 - October 17 The Art & Science of German Breads Five Day Course with Volker Baumann; Volker Baumann, Certified Master Baker, is a popular SFBI visiting instructor who has been active in the North American baking industry for 32 years. The author of an industry favorite, Baking, The Art and Science, Volker currently teaches new bakers at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology in Canada. In this handson class you will learn about many German bread varieties including Black Forest Rye, Landbrot, Frankonia Rye, Kommisbrot and much more. Volker will show you uncompromising techniques for creating these often challenging, always rewarding breads, while expanding your overall knowledge of artisan bread baking. July 21 - July 25 New! Par Baked Breads and Frozen Dough Techniques Five Day Course with Didier Rosada and Roy Chung of US Wheat Associates; Par baked breads and frozen dough are becoming a more popular and profitable choice for the modern bakery.this timely workshop with SFBI Head Instructor Didier Rosada and special guest Roy Chung a full-time consultant in Asia for U.S. Wheat Associates will show you how you can boost sales in your bakery by starting a par baked or frozen dough line. Learn about the techniques, ingredients and equipment you need to introduce a new, innovative alternative to your customers. Everything changes after freezing from the activity of the yeast to the structure of the gluten. This class will teach you what you have to do to preserve the quality of raw dough in the freezer so that it can be baked into a first class bakery item. Learn the techniques for freezing breads and croissants that can be taken from the freezer to the oven with and without proofing. Also learn about proofing the same products before they go in the freezer and baking them directly out of the freezer. The class will demonstrate techniques for par baking that will allow you to partially bake breads, freeze them and finish them after freezing. It is not as simple as it sounds, but our instructors will show you what characteristics to look for before removing the bread from the oven and what precautions to take to ensure that the baked-off loaf is as good as a loaf that never hit the freezer. This class is recommended for experienced baking professionals who are interested in these specific techniques. This class will not cover the fundamental baking process and all information will be targeted for frozen dough and par baked breads. August 18 - August 22 Magnificent Mousse Cakes Five Day Course with Phillippe LeCorre; Attain a new level of confidence in your pastry skills when you take this more advanced class that will immerse you in the art of high-end mousse cakes and petit fours. Mousse cakes have long been a staple in pastry shops around the world, but getting them perfect is not so easy. Philippe will demonstrate a variety of techniques for achieving perfection with your mousse cakes, using chocolate, fruits and assembly methods to create masterpieces that will dazzle any pastry lover.through hands-on training you will get a first hand look at how using certain methods and ingredients will allow you to alter the texture of the mousse to get the most desirable result. You will learn how to make cakes that taste great and look worldclass with advanced decorating techniques using chocolate decorations and glazes.you will learn to assemble efficiently and decorate masterfully for presentation that will impress and delight. August 25 - August 29 Coming Next Fall! with Philippe Le Corre... Holiday Breads & Pastries December 1 - December 5 See our next newsletter, or visit our website, for more details. 11

12 PRSRT STD U.S. POSTAGE PAID SO. SAN FRANCISCO, CA PERMIT NO. 655 THE SAN FRANCISCO BAKING INSTITUTE 390 SWIFT AVENUE, #13 SOUTH SAN FRANCISCO, CA New 14-Week Training Program... Plus our New Classes for 2003! IN ADDITION TO ARTISAN BAKING CLASSES AND SEMINARS, SFBI OFFERS CONSULTING SERVICES TAILORED TO YOUR SPECIFIC NEEDS: B AKERY CONSULTING Bakery Design and Layout Assessing equipment requirements Technical assistance Production Management On-site training in European baking techniques Artisan bread and pastry recipes FORMULA RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT Developing signature products Testing and comparing state of the art baking equipment Troubleshooting formulation/production problems Training small groups Ingredient analysis THE BREAD PROJECT The Bread Project is a non-profit group with an independent board of directors. The organization s goal is to provide comprehensive training to people interested in the baking trade. The SFBI and The Bread Project have created an alliance that we hope will greatly benefit both prospective bakers and the baking industry. We are entering our second year with this project. Educational programs that focus on baking are prohibitively expensive for many people.we hope that this project will become a model for the education and training of many generations of future bakers. Currently the program will be funded through a variety of grants.the goal is to create an industry-sponsored fund that will give scholarships to the students, freeing The Bread Project from continual fund-raising. We believe that change has to happen regarding the training of our future bakers. SFBI is proud to be taking a first step! LOOK WHAT S RISING... New 14-Week Training Program for Professional Bakers New 2003 Class Calendars Baking Performance of Flour - Comparison Test Recipe and Baker s Tip