Natural moisturising solutions by Jungbunzlauer

Transcription

1 Natural moisturising solutions by Jungbunzlauer presented by: ABSTRACT Jungbunzlauer is presenting new data of an in vivo study demonstrating the efficacy of moisturising ingredients based on lactates, gluconates and polyols for rinse-off applications. The skin moisture content can be increased by daily use in a two week period by more than 9% using potassium lactate, ERYLITE or calcium lactate gluconate. These nature-derived ingredients performed better than the positive control glycerine. Next to their exceptional moisturising properties, they show an excellent skin compatibility and skin tolerance. All skin nourishing ingredients by Jungbunzlauer are produced by a fermentation process based on renewable and non-gm carbohydrates and are ECOCERT/ COSMOS approved. April /6

2 INTRODUCTION Cleaning and body washing with soap or soap-like materials is as old as mankind. While a typical body washing frequency is once per day, hands are cleaned 6 8 times daily. The use of bar soap and shower products can induce several negative effects on the skin like irritation, itching or drying out. This has led to the demand for milder soap and bath products with an additional moisturising benefit. Between 2006 and 2012, moisturizing claims for rinse-off bath products increased by 3 as noted by a Mintel GNPD study. There is a clear trend toward using effective moisturizers in this market segment. Trend towards more natural ingredients Consumers are increasingly attracted to using products that are made from naturally derived or organic ingredients. By purchasing these bath products, consumers are casting their vote of support for companies that manufacture eco-friendly ingredients made from renewable resources. This trend towards more sustainability and responsibility has been taken up by Jungbunzlauer, who is offering a broad range of bio-based personal care ingredients providing multifunctional properties. In a recent study, the moisturising benefits of organic acids salts and polyols have been successfully tested in leave-on formulations [1]. Approval by external certification bodies All Jungbunzlauer ingredients are produced by fermentation derived from renewable and non-gmo carbohydrate sources. Most of the ingredients have been approved by ECOCERT and COSMOS. This paper will describe the benefits of the following Jungbunzlauer personal care ingredients with regards to their moisturising properties in rinse-off products: Potassium ERYLITE Calcium COMPOSITION OF SKIN CLEANING PRODUCTS The use of liquid soap, bath and shower products is a relatively new category of personal care products, which is rapidly growing, particularly in developed countries. Moisturizing body washes must deposit an effective amount of benefit agent on the skin during the wash-rinse process. The major formula components of a body washes are listed below: Water: Liquid soap bath and shower products contain a high percentage of water. Surfactants: Main component is the surfactant. They lower the interfacial tension and allow water to more effectively wet the skin surface and to solubilise lipophilic soils. Typical examples of surfactants are alkyl carboxylates, alkylether sulfates, alkylamidopropyl betaines or alkylamphoacetates in liquid products [2]. Skin benefit ingredients: Oils and lipids are used in skin cleansers as emollients. For hydration purposes humectants like sodium lactate or glycerine are added to the formulation. Other ingredients: Polymers and their salts are added to the formulation to alter the viscosity. Colour and fragrance are important for the in-use experience of body washes. [3]. April /6

3 IMPACT OF SURFACTANTS ON THE SKIN The uppermost layer of the epidermis is the stratum corneum (SC). This layer is the protective barrier of the skin. It consists of about 70% protein, 1 lipids and 1 water. It has a thickness of about 20 microns and controls the movement of substances from within the skin to the outside as well as prevents external material from getting in. The SC is built up in a brick-and-mortar-like structure where the corneocytes as bricks are forming an overlapping barrier and the intercellular lipids surround and protect the corneocytes as mortar. A part of the water present in the SC is located within the corneocytes as the so called natural moisturising factor (NMF). The rest is bonded in the lipid layer. A constant water balance is important to keep the elasticity and flexibility of the SC [4]. Surfactants have the ability to damage the SC. Body washing applies surfactant concentrations of 5 20% to the skin which is relatively high [2]. Besides the nature of the surfactant, the water temperature and the water hardness also may contribute to skin irritation. Under cleansing conditions the corneocytes can swell. Surfactants are then able to move into deeper skin layers where they block special water binding proteins. This results in a decreased equilibrium hydration level that can lead to irritation and dry skin [5-7]. Furthermore, surfactants are able to dissolve SC lipids like cholesterol and short chained fatty acids [8]. This will destabilize the SC structure which supports the effect of underhydration. COMPENSATION OF SKIN DAMAGE BY MOISTURISATION Several actions can be taken to lower the effect of surfactants on the skin or to compensate the lost hydration. The use of milder surfactants can reduce the SC protein damage and the loss of skin lipids. Secondly, by applying fatty acids and sterols topically, the SC can be effectively repaired with the addition of moisturising substances designed to increase the equilibrium hydration level again. In soap and bath products, typically water insoluble moisturisers are used. One category of hydrophobic moisturisers are occlusives like petrolatum, lanolin or mineral oils. They limit the transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Another group are emollients like vegetable oils, fatty acids and ceramides to enhance the flexibility and smoothness of the SC. Humectants like glycerine, lactates, gluconates or erythritol are water soluble and are able to hold moisture by water binding. These substances have been shown to be very effective in body care products like creams and lotions [1]. However it is a challenge to provide their full effect to the skin during the body wash due to their water solubility and the relatively short skin contact time of application. MOISTURISING PERFORMANCE OF JUNGBUNZLAUER INGREDIENTS The moisturising performance of several lactate and gluconic acid salts and blends as well as erytrithol has been evaluated in a two week in vivo study using a Corneometer for detection of skin moisture content. Glycerine was used as the positive control. The individual Jungbunzlauzer ingredients, the concentration in the test formulation and the ECOCERT/COSMOS approval status are summarized in Table 1. April /6

4 Table 1: Jungbunzlauer moisturising ingredients used in the two weeks in vivo study Use concentration in formulation [%] Moisturising ingredient Physical form ECOCERT approval COSMOS approval 5 Glycerine liquid - - (reference) 5 60% aqueous Yes Yes solution 5 Potassium 60% aqueous Yes Yes solution 5 crystalline Yes Yes 5 ERYLITE crystalline Yes Yes 5 Calcium crystalline Yes No 2.5/2.5 / - Yes Yes Research Method Ten adult female test persons with healthy skin, different age and different skin type - normal skin and dry skin - took part in this clinical study. The test persons were instructed to apply the shower gel daily on pre-determined skin areas (forearm) during an application period of two weeks. Prior to start of the study, the skin hydration level of the test persons was measured under controlled conditions (22 C, 60% relative humidity, 45 minutes of acclimatisation) with a Corneometer. After two weeks of daily application, the measurement of skin moisture content was repeated on the same spots. For statistical reasons, four individual measurements per test area of a shower gel formulation were determined: Three points within the test area and one point of untreated skin close to the test area. Results and Discussion Fig. 1 shows the difference of the skin moisture content [in %] before and after two week daily treatment of the rinse-off formulation with moisturising ingredients. As negative control, a placebo formulation has been used, for the positive control, glycerine has been used. Except the negative control, all formulations showed an improvement in the skin moisture content. For the negative control, the slight decrease of skin moisture content by 2. indicates a drying out of the skin after 2 weeks of daily use. For the positive control, the formulation with glycerine, an increase of the skin moisture content by 4% was observed. The formulation with sodium lactate performed quite well and showed an improvement in skin moisture content of 6.3%. On the other hand, application of a formulation with sodium gluconate revealed a minor increase in moisture content of 0.8%. The combination of both substances (each 2.5 %) led to an improvement of the moisture content by 4.1%. The most significant improvement in moisture content after the application period could be observed for formulations containing potassium lactate, ERYLITE or calcium lactate gluconate: The increase in skin moisture content after two weeks of application was 9.0%, 9.2% and 10.9% respectively. These are significant improvements vs. the glycerine control, and account for a healthy increase in skin moisture between 12 and 170%. April /6

5 All rinse-off formulations did not show any negative impact on the panellist s skin as none of the participants reported undesirable side effects. Even test persons with sensitive or dry skin had no irritations during or after the test period. Glycerine, sodium lactate and potassium lactate are natural constituents of the natural moisturising factor (NMF). Application of those ingredients led to positive moisturising effects. In addition, they provide excellent skin compatibility and thus are considered non-irritating and non-sensitising to the skin. This is important for rinse-off products with a high frequency of use % % 9.2% Improvement of skin moisture [%] % Control 0% Glycerine 6.3% Potassium ERYLITE Calcium lactate gluconate / 2./2. Datenreihen % 4.1% Fig. 1: relative improvement of skin hydration after two weeks of application of a shower gel with and without (w/w) moisturiser CONCLUSION Frequent use of skin cleansing products can lead to an increased dryness of the skin. Nourishing the skin with a rinse-off product containing natural moisturisers can counteract this effect and even improve the state of the skin. Based on the results of a 2-week in vivo study of daily application of a rinse-off formulation, we could demonstrate that several Jungbunzlauer natural moisturising ingredients increase the skin moisture content. Especially potassium lactate, ERYLITE and calcium lactate gluconate performed better than the positive control glycerine. Although all the substances are water soluble, an increase of the skin hydration of about 10% could be achieved. This is an increase of about 150% over that of glycerine. In addition to their inherent moisturising properties, each of these ingredients is safe in use due to their excellent skin compatibility. The Jungbunzlauer key mission From nature to ingredients indicates that all moisturising ingredients are produced by the natural process of fermentation. The production process is based on renewable and non-gm carbohydrates which underpin our commitment to responsibility and sustainability. This is also enforced by the approval of our ingredients as of 100% natural origin by ECOCERT suitable for use in natural and organic cosmetics. April /6

6 LITERATURE [1] Lenz D., Seelig O. (2012) Smooth moisturising solutions by nature, Technical paper at CosmeticsDesign.com April [2] Subramanyan K., Ananthapadmanabhan K.P. (2007) Handbook for Cleaning/Decontamination of Surfaces, C.1 Personal Cleansing [3] Ertel, K., Focht, H, Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures, edited by Z. D. Draelos (2010), p. 88. [4] Harding C. (2004) The Stratum Corneum: Structure and Function in Health and Disease, Dermatologic Therapy. 17: 6 15 [5] Misra M., Ananthapadmanabhan K.P., Hoyberg K., Gursky R.P., Prowell S., Aronson M.P. (1997) Correlation between Surfactant-Induced Ultrastructural Changes in Epidermis and Transepidermal Water Loss, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 48: [6] Putterman G.I., Wolesjsza N.F., Wolfram M.A., Laden K. (1977) The Effect of Detergents on Swelling of Stratum Corneum, J. Soc. Cosmet. 28: [7] Blakehaskins J., Scala D.D., Rhein L. et al. (1985) Determination of Surfactant Irritancy from the Swelling Behavior of a Collagen Membrane, J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 36(5): 379 [8] de la Maza A., Coderch L., Lopez O., Baucells J., Parra J. (1997) Permeability Changes Caused by Surfactants in Liposomes that Model the Stratum Corneum Lipid Composition, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 74(1): 1-8 APPENDIX 1: Rinse-off formulations used in vivo study INCI % Aqua Potassium Sorbate 0.10 Benzoate 0.50 Moisturising ingredient 5.00 Laureth Sulfate Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate 1.50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.00 Parfum 1.00 Citric Acid 0.50 Chloride 0.25 Total: Authors: Dr. Dirk Lenz, Product Manager s Frithjof Raab, Technical Service Manager Lactics dirk.lenz@jungbunzlauer.com frithjof.raab@jungbunzlauer.com The information contained herein has been compiled carefully to the best of our knowledge. We do not accept any responsibility or liability for the information given in respect to the described product. Our product has to be applied under full and own responsibility of the user, especially in respect to any patent rights of others and any law or government regulation. April /6