GENERAL KITCHEN INSTALLATION GUIDE

Transcription

1 Page 1 GENERAL KITCHEN INSTALLATION GUIDE Tools required for the job Cordless screwdriver Hand Tools Jigsaw 5mm & 3mm HSS Drill bit 50mm, 25mm, 30mm and 16mm screws Pair of clamps Hole saws Spirit level Tape Measure Power Drill Pencil. Safety Equipment Goggles, Dust Mask etc Extension Lead The fitting of cabinets Fitting should commence in the corner of the kitchen. Starting at the highest point in the floor, a level line should be transferred to the walls marking the finished height of your cabinets 870mm from the floor. Adjust the legs to ensure the cabinet meets the line and, using a spirit level, adjust to ensure the unit is plumb and level. Continue the above method with all subsequent units and clamp together making sure all edges are flush and level. To connect units together, use clamps to adjoin the units both top and bottom, ensuring that the front and top edges are flush. When clamping together protect units by using hardboard off cuts or similar behind the clamp jaws (unless the clamps already have protective covers). Fix the two units together with a cordless screwdriver using 4 off 28mm screws in each corner of the cabinet When all the cabinets are levelled and in place, they will require fixing to the walls. This will only be required at alternate units. Screw through the solid 16mm back of the unit into a stud or using masonry drill bit and power drill, insert a rawl plug into solid masonry walls to fix to.

2 Page 2 Repeat the above for any wall cabinets except each wall cabinet must be fixed to the wall and the level line set at 2100mm to the top of the wall cabinets. The fitting of Laminate Bench tops Here are the tools you will require for the installation of laminate bench tops Jigsaw Circular saw Plane or Electric planer Combination Square 2 Saw Horses Clamps Worktop Template (for Mitres) ½ inch Router and straight blade Masking Tape 50mm wide Silicone Sealant of a best match colour 10mm spanner Worktop bolts File Sealer (for cut-outs) Tape Pencil Compass Tin of contact adhesive Protective wear (goggles, dust mask etc.) Measure up! It is important to maintain an even overhang from the front edge of the cabinets and this is the target to aim for in the correct fitting of all bench tops. As an example, a 615mm worktop should overhang a 580mm cabinet by 20mm. It may not always be possible to achieve perfection in this respect and + or - 5mm is acceptable. For the purpose of this we will assume a three-sided application that requires two bench top joints is required.

3 Page 3 Decide first which way the joints should run. Remember at this stage to avoid joint proximity to a sink wherever possible. Each bench top should be cut 50mm oversize and, when taking into account the 20mm overhang required at the end of the cabinets, you should add 70mm to overall cabinet length. Ensuring an even overhang Next task is to scribe the bench top to fit the elevation to which it is to be installed. You must first scribe the depth (front to back) if fitted up against a wall. Remember first to check you have an even overhang along its length and if at this stage if the overhang is greater than what is required due to unevenness along the wall length, don t worry, this will be dealt with next. To scribe the bench top, use a compass and masking tape will prove invaluable to mark your bench top and to protect it from scratching when cutting. So the bench top is in place with an even overhang and you have applied masking tape along the depth to be scribed. You must now open up the compasses pencil and point to match the widest gap between the bench top and wall (making sure you will maintain a 20mm overhang +/- 5mm). Transfer this to the bench top by running the compass along the wall keeping it parallel thus leaving a pencil line on the masking tape. You are now left with the shape of the wall transferred to the bench top and this should be cut with a jigsaw unless it is so minimal that a plane will suffice. Of course all the above can be disregarded if your walls are fairly straight and flush but in my experience this is a rarity and your own judgement will tell you whether the gap left is acceptable or not. My own yardstick for a wall to worktop maximum gap would be no greater than 5mm. (note that the purchased bench top is 615mm wide allowing a total of 15mm to scribe to the wall.) Cutting the bench top To cut the bench top with a jigsaw uses a down stroke blade. This will prevent any unsightly large chips of the laminate whilst cutting. After cutting along the line, remove the masking tape, butt the bench top up to the same wall, ensure the overhang is even along its length and repeat the process along the back edge for the other connecting bench tops leaving 50mm over length for the internal mason mitre joints.

4 Page 4 Cutting the mason mitre joints Now it s time to cut the joints and this must always be carried out in a left to right motion commencing at the post formed front edge of the bench top. This will render turning the worktop upside down for certain joints but it is an extremely important point to remember to prevent the front edge of the laminate from chipping out. Assuming the configuration is a three sided or u-shaped we will start with the left hand bench top that runs full cabinet length up to the returning wall. This bench top will have a female mitre cut into it in order to accept the male mitre of the connecting bench top. Bench top templates are now widely available for various bench top widths and are supplied with detailed instructions for use (these can usually be hired from local hire centres). Location pins are provided and these are placed in the relevant holes for the cutting of male or female mitres. Set the pins for a female mitre, place template on the face edge and clamp firmly to the bench top. A relevant sized collet for use as a guide in the bench top jig, usually 30mm diameter, must be fitted to your router before cutting into the top. Set the router to approximately cut 10mm depth for each pass and allow the router to cut into the top without forcing the machine. Once complete you must now cut the bench top bolts in a relevant and accessible position on the underside of the worktop. The template for the bolts is again located with pins on the worktop jig. Set the depth to accept the bolts and using two cuts router out the worktop. Now place the bench top in position checking the overhang is correct. Place an off cut of bench top on top of the cabinets of the adjoining worktop close to the opposite wall. Position the adjoining worktop to lay over the already mitred top and the off cut. As this top will be 30/40mm above the cabinet, depending on what size top you are fitting, use a combination square to make sure the overhang from the cabinets is still correct. Ensure at the same time that the front edge of this top aligns with the start of the mitre in the female joint. This can be checked again with the combination square.

5 Page 5 Using a sharp pencil mark the underside of this top by running the pencil along the edge of the female joint. At the same time mark the position of the bench top jointing bolts. Remove this top and mark a line 9mm behind the pencil line. This line marks where the template will sit once the location pins are set to the male mitre position. The 9mm measurement is the allowance for the collet once the router is placed within the template and is standard with most templates. This rule must be applied for every cut when using a router even straight cuts using a straight line off cut as a template. Cut the male mitre, this time on the underside, and cut out for the bench top bolts. Position this bench top in place making sure the joint looks good and then repeat the process of cutting a female mitre on this top and a male mitre on the last adjoining top. Fitting sink and inset appliances Before sealing & clamping the joints you should cut out any inset appliances such as the sink or hob. Place the tops in their position and prior to fitting the taps, place the sink upside down in position on the top. Mark around it with a pencil, remove the sink and mark a new line 10mm in from the sink edge. Remove the worktop and place it temporarily on two workhorses for ease of cutting. Drill a 10mm hole just inside the cutting line and cut out for the sink using a jigsaw. Apply sealer with a brush to the exposed edges. This will protect the edges against water ingress should this occur. To prevent this however, you will need to apply the waterproof silicon seal around the underside edge of the sink. This may be pre-installed or supplied with the sink but if it is not, you should apply a continuous bead of silicone sealant in its place. Now you should fit the sink into the worktop, chiselling out for the fixing clips that will be sitting directly on the cabinets. Should the clips be located over a dishwasher or washing machine this will not be necessary. Tighten the clips and wipe away any excess sealant using turps and a rag. Repeat this process for any further appliances fitted into the worktop.

6 Page 6 Adding laminate edging You can now take the opportunity to fix the laminate edges to the cut ends of the bench top but first the laminate must be cut 3 to 4mm oversize. Apply contact adhesive (available from most hardware stores) to the cut end and to the laminate edging. Allow them to become touch dry then apply to the worktop ensuring that the laminate just stands 1 2mm proud of the face edge. Using a file at a slight upward angle, gently remove excess until flush all round with the bench top. Fixing your worktop Place the first two worktops back in position on top of the cabinets and apply a bead of silicone between the joint. To do this successfully, raise the joint at an angle and apply the silicone. This will probably require an extra hand. Gently lower the tops and remove the excess sealant. Now, from the underside, fit the bench top bolts / connectors and tighten up using an allen key while at intervals checking the joint remains flush from above. When the joint is pulled together remove the excess silicone and gently tap the worktop flush with a hammer using a scrap piece of wood as protection for the bench top (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN CONNECTORS). Finally, to remove the film of silicone left across the joint, use turps and a clean soft rag. When all joints have been assembled and all tops are correctly in position screw bench tops in place through rails in top of cabinets using 32mm screws (drill a 5mm clearance hole in rail first) the bench tops must be fixed in each cabinet front and back to prevent twisting. Fitting appliances An important thing to remember is, when fitting a conventional corner cabinet that has an appliance fitted on the return, to allow sufficient space for the door to open 90? And to ensure that the appliance door has clearance to open without infringing on the door handle. This may require the fitting of a corner fillet manufactured on site but will ensure that your dishes can be placed into a fully open dishwasher.

7 Page 7 Remember to align the hob base unit with the extractor. This task takes precedence over all others for the efficient operation of the extractor. It may be necessary to reposition the corner unit but this can be amended by again utilising a filler on the corner base. When fitting integrated appliances you will need to leave a space between cabinets. Using a straight length of wood, clamp flush to the already levelled cabinets and use this as a guide for fitting the next cabinet making sure you leave the correct space between the units marked on the length of timber and this applies to both the front, back & bottom of the space. This method also applies when fitting units either side of a freestanding cooker.