Girl s Sweatshirt Jean Jacket

Transcription

1 Free Project Girl s Sweatshirt Jean Jacket Create adorable jackets out of sweatshirts for the sweet little girl in your life! This cozy jacket combines your favorite ready-made sweatshirt and denim fabric. An embroidered pony along with butterfly buttons will add a playful nature. Skill Level: Intermediate Pretty Ponies 20 Classic Designs INCLUDES 1 DESIGN FOR 5" x 7" HOOPS AND 19 DESIGNS FOR 4" x 4" HOOPS Required Software: Amazing Designs Pretty Ponies Embroidery CD (ADC-221) Design used in this project: PONY108 Editing software, such as Amazing Designs Edit N Stitch, to mirror image design and print template PONY102 W: 3.0" H: 3.5" PONY103 H: 3.6" PONY104 W: 3.2" H: 3.7" PONY107 H: 2.9" PONY108 W: 3.8" H: 3.9" Project included with Collection PONY101 W: 2.5" H: 3.7" PONY105 H: 3.8" Supplies: Child Sweatshirt ¾ yd. light to medium weight denim (cuffs, collar, front bands, bottom band) 1/8 yd. fusible medium weight interfacing (hem reinforcement at button and sleeves) Optional: ¾ yd. coordinating cotton print (facing fabric) Optional: Additional ¾ yd. fusible medium weight interfacing (for lightweight denim and/or cotton print facings/under collar) Fusible tear-away stabilizer Self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer or Water activated tear-away stabilizer Assortment of Madeira Rayon embroidery threads Five ¾ Buttons (jacket front) Three butterfly buttons Bamboo Pointer & Creaser Erasable fabric marking pen or pencil Matching all-purpose thread Topstitching thread Hand sewing needle Read all instructions before beginning. INSTRUCTIONS: Note: All seam allowances are ¼ unless otherwise noted. 1. Prepare sweatshirt fabrics. Prewash the sweatshirt, denim, and optional cotton print following the manufacturer s instructions. Press if necessary. Remove the sweatshirt bottom ribbing. Cut approximately 1 from the lower edge of the sweatshirt to straighten the edge PONY109 H: 3.0" PONY110 W: 3.8" H: 3.9" PONY106 H: 3.1" INCLUDES: Re-color! Re-size! Preview & Print! Remove 1 Remove ribbing Cut several ⅜" wide strips of fusible interfacing. Fuse interfacing strips along the wrong side of the lower cut edge of the sweatshirt. Fusible Interfacing Prepare sweatshirt front. Find the exact center front of the sweatshirt. Fold the sweatshirt, meeting shoulder or raglan seams and side seams or foldlines. Pin edges together. This creates a fold along the center of the sweatshirt.

2 Press the fold, remove the pins, and draw a solid line on the fold mark from the upper edge of neck ribbing to the lower cut edge. Mark center back on the back neck ribbing. Optional: Interface cotton print if used as a facing to be consistent with the weight of the denim. Press under ¼ along one long edge of two denim front band pieces. Meet cut edges of a pressed band and an unpressed band, placing right sides together. Align band ends and long cut edges. Stitch a ¼ seam on the long cut edge. Carefully align and fuse strips of fusible interfacing along both sides of the center front crease line on the wrong side of the sweatshirt. Fold seam along the stitching line, wrapping upper corner. Stitch to finish the upper edge of the front band, beginning at the wrapped edge. Grade seam allowances and corner bulk. Turn right side out; press. Meet the right side of the unpressed long cut edge of a front band to the wrong side of sweatshirt front. Pin in place. Wrong side Wrong side Cut along the marked center front line of the sweatshirt to create an open front sweatshirt. Staystitch all interfaced edges, stitching a scant ¼ from the cut edges. 3. Add front bands. Prepare the bands. Measure the length of the sweatshirt front from the upper edge of the ribbing to the lower cut edge of the sweatshirt. Add ¼ for neck edge seam allowance.this is the length of the front bands. Rightside Make the bands 2 wide. - Cut four front bands from the lengthwise grain of the denim fabric. Or, cut two strips of denim and two strips of a cotton print Assemble the second front band in the same manner, creating a mirror image of the first band. Pin right side of band to the remaining wrong side of sweatshirt front edge. Stitch bands to sweatshirt fronts. Turn and press bands away from sweatshirt. Press and grade seam allowances. Fold the pressed under band edge to right side of the sweatshirt front. Align the pressed edge along the stitching line, enveloping the seam allowances and just covering the stitching. Pin bands in place. Increase stitch length to Topstitch along both long edges and upper edge of front placket bands. Stitch one or two rows of topstitching. Press.

3 Prepare and attach collar. Measure from center back marking along the sweatshirt neckline seam to the inner edge of the front band placket. Write down the measurement Measure Measure the opposite side and add this measurement to the first. Stand the tape measure on edge to measure the curved seam. Wrap seamed edge to form the finished corners of the collar. Fold the outer edge of the collar seam along the stitching line, wrapping the corner Add ½ to the total measurement, allowing ¼ for each seam. Remark center back if the two measurements are not equal. Cut two denim collars 3½ wide by the final measurement. Or, cut one denim collar and one cotton print under collar. Optional: Interface cotton print if used as an under collar to be consistent with the weight of the denim collar. Press under ¼ along one long edge of one denim collar piece; this will be the upper collar. Stitch collar ends, starting at the wrapped edge and stopping at the pin or marking. Lock stitches. The unstitched length overlaps the neckline ribbing. With right sides together, align collar and under collar short edges and long unpressed cut edges. Stitch a ¼ seam along the long edge. Grade seam allowances and corner bulk. Press. Turn to right side and press again. Mark ¼ above the ribbing seamline on the right side of the neckline ribbing using an erasable fabric marking pen or pencil. Measure the exact width of the neck ribbing, from seam to fold edge. Measure the same distance on the upper collar, beginning at the pressed fold edge. Mark or place a pin at the proper measurement. Repeat for opposite collar end

4 Meet the unpressed long edge of the collar to the sweatshirt neckline, right sides together. Align the cut edge along the marked line above the neck Collar ribbing seam. Pin in place. Stitch the collar to the sweatshirt, making certain that the collar ends meet the front bands. Press. Turn and press collar away from the sweatshirt. Press and grade the collar seam allowance. Do not cut away any of the neckline ribbing. Fold the pressed under collar edge to the wrong side of the sweatshirt neckline. Align the pressed edge along the stitching line, enveloping the neck ribbing and just covering the stitching. Pin collar into place. Topstitch along all edges of the collar. Press after topstitching. Wrap stitched band corners and stitch ends, stitching from the wrapped edge to the cut edge. Grade seam allowances and corner bulk. Press. Turn to right side and press again. Meet the right side of the unpressed edge of the band to the wrong side of the lower sweatshirt edge. Align cut edges and pin in place. 5. Add lower band. Determine the length of the band by measuring from the outer edge of the front placket to the opposite finished edge of the front placket. Stitch the lower band to the sweatshirt. Press. Turn and press band away from the sweatshirt. Press and grade the seam allowances. Fold the pressed-under lower band edge to the right side of the sweatshirt. Align the pressed edge along the stitching, just covering the stitching line. Pin band in place. Topstitch along all edges of the lower band. Press. Start Stop Add ½ to the measurement, allowing ¼ for each seam. Cut two denim strips 2 wide by the final measurement. Or, cut one strip of denim and one strip of a cotton print. Optional: Interface the lower band if using a cottonprint as the facing to be consistent with the weight of the denim. Press under ¼ along one long edge of one lower band piece. With right sides together, align band ends and long unpressed cut edges. Stitch a ¼ seam along the matched long edge. 6. Add sleeve plackets. Topstitch band edges Turn sweatshirt sleeves wrong side out. Cut off sleeve ribbing, trimming as close as possible to the sleeve/ribbing stitching. Fuse strips of fusible interfacing along the wrong side of the cut edge of the sweatshirt sleeves. Staystitch interfaced sleeve edges a scant ¼ from cut edges

5 Mark the placement of the sleeve plackets on the wrong side of sleeve fabric. Smooth sleeve, keeping sleeve seam neat and smooth. Mark back of sleeve 1 from the sleeve seam at the cut edge. Cut on the marked centerline, being careful not to cut through the stitches at the tip of the staystitching. Repeat for the second sleeve. Cut on center line Draw a 2 line parallel to the sleeve fold, beginning at the marked sleeve edge. Cut two 1¼ x 4¼ placket strips of denim or cotton facing fabric. Press under ¼ along one long edge of each placket strip. Meet right side of unpressed long edge of placket strip to the wrong side of sleeve placket opening. Position and pin the staystitching of the sleeve a scant ¼ from the unpressed edge of the placket strip. 2" Draw two angled lines beginning a scant ¼ from either side of the marked line at the cut edge and meeting at the opposite end of the marked line. Draw angled lines ¼ from each side Stitch a ¼ seam along the pinned edge, using the staystitching as a stitching guide. Repeat for second sleeve placket. Fold the prepressed edge of the sleeve plackets over the seam allowance on the right side of the sweatshirt. Align pressed edges over stitching lines. Pin and edgestitch into place. Remove fusible tear-away stabilizer. Press the placket, folding the placket under at the upper sleeve. Baste in place, securing placket to sleeve. Fuse a piece of fusbile tear-away stabilizer to the right side of the sleeve placket area. Staystitch the marked inverted V, reducing stitch length to 1.5 near the point of the V. Stabilizer Baste placket Reduce stitch length near point 7. Prepare and attach cuffs. Measure from basted fold at upper sleeve, around sleeve circumference to fold edge of under sleeve placket

6 Add 1¼ for button extension and seam allowances. Cut four cuff pieces 2 wide by the final measurement. Optional: Cut two cuffs of denim and two cuff pieces of a cotton print fabric. Optional: Interface cuff strips if using the cotton print for facings to be consistent with the weight of the denim. Press under ¼ along one long edge of two denim cuff pieces. Meet right sides of one pressed and one unpressed cuff, aligning cuff ends and long unpressed cut edges. Stitch a ¼ seam along the matched long edge. 8. Assemble lower band back tabs. Cut out four band tabs from denim fabric using pattern on page 8. Optional: Cut two tabs from denim and two tabs from cotton print fabric. Do not interface any of the tab pieces. Place two tab pieces right sides together, aligning cut edges. Stitch around tab shape, leaving short straight end unstitched. Repeat for second tab. Wrap cuff corners and stitch ends, starting at the wrapped edge. Grade seam allowances and trim corners. Turn tabs right side out. Gently shape corners using a Bamboo Pointer and Creaser. Grade seam allowances and corner bulk. Press. Turn to right side and press again. Meet the right side of the unpressed long edge of the cuff to the wrong side of the sweatshirt sleeve edge. Position the button extension at the under/lower sleeve. Align cut edges and pin in place. Repeat for second cuff. Topstitch outside edges of tabs. 9. Position and stitch buttonholes. Mark center front on both front plackets, extending down through the lower band. Cuff Button extension Stitch cuffs to the sweatshirt. Press. Turn and press cuffs away from the sweatshirt. Press and grade the seam allowances. Fold the pressed-under cuff edges to right side of the sweat shirt. Align the pressed edges along the stitching, just covering the stitching lines. Pin cuffs in place. Topstitch along all edges of the cuffs. Press. Position one buttonhole near the top of the front band and one buttonhole in the lower band. Place the remaining buttonholes equally spaced between the upper and lower buttonholes. Girls jackets have buttonholes in the right placket. (Note: a boys jacket would have buttonholes in the left placket). The button holes in the front placket are vertical, and the buttonhole in the lower band is horizontal. Position cuff buttonholes on the upper cuffs, with the length of the buttonhole parallel to the length of the cuff

7 Stitch test buttonholes on scraps of denim to ensure the best possible buttonhole. Stitch the buttonholes. Add a buttonhole at each shaped end of the back band tabs. Fold tab back Topstitch along the folded pressed edge. Repeat for remaining tab. 10. Position and attach back button tabs. Draw a vertical guideline on the back lower band ½ ¾ from each side seam. Topstitch Mark vertical guideline Mark vertical guideline Mark button placement and sew on buttons. Add additional buttons approximately 1 1½ in from the primary lower band tab buttons to allow for adjusting fit of the jacket band. Place the right side of the tab to the right side of the lower band, aligning tab cut edge with the guideline. (Tab points toward front of sweatshirt.) Stitch ¼ from tab cut edge through all layers. Align tab to guideline Add additional buttons 11. Prepare and Position Template: Using editing software, such as Amazing Designs Edit N Stitch, horizontally mirror image design PONY108. Note: feel free to resize the design smaller or larger depending on the size of the sweatshirt. Print out a template of design and trim away excess paper around stitchfield. On bottom left side of the sweatshirt, position template so that bottom of the design is ¼ above the lower band, centered horizontally; pin in place. Stitch tab Press. Fold tab back over the seam allowance. (Tab points toward center back.) Press well

8 12. Prepare Stabilizer: Hoop self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer or the water activated adhesive tear-away stabilizer in a 4 x 4 or larger hoop. For water activated tear-away stabilizer, hoop adhesive side up. Use a damp sponge to moisten the surface of the stabilizer so that it becomes tacky. For the self-adhesive tear-away stabilizer, hoop release liner side up. Score and remove the release liner to expose the adhesive. Secure sweatshirt over the stabilizer aligning the cross-hatch marks of the template with the center markings of the hoop. 13. Add Embroidery to the Sweatshirt Jean Jacket: Follow the manufacturer s instructions for setting up your machine for computerized embroidery and import the design. Attach hoop to the embroidery machine, and position the needle directly over the center of the template crosshair marking. Embroider design following the color chart included with the design CD with these modifications: Color 8: advance past--do not embroider Color 11: After embroidering the outline around the eye, stop the machine (approximately stitch 11,621)--do not embroider the remain portion of the design Remove sweatshirt from stabilizer; tear-away any excess stabilizer left behind. 14. Finish the Sweatshirt Jean Jacket: Hand sew butterfly buttons to sweatshirt using photo on page 1 as reference. Jacket Tab For other exciting projects like this one, visit our website at