Learn Crochet: Part 2

Transcription

1 Mom s Crochet Patterns written by Sandy Marie Learn Crochet: Part 2 Featuring: Half Double Crochet. Includes: Slip Stitch & Mattress Stitch Plus the Half Double Crochet Purse Pattern

2 Learn Crochet: Part 2 Featuring: Half Double Crochet. Includes: Slip Stitch & Mattress Stitch Plus the Half Double Crochet Purse Pattern page number 1 Why is Half Double Crochet called the Sweater Stitch? Around the 1900s, looking at the 'fashion' of the times, you'll see many, many crochet items made using this stitch. One of the unique qualities of the stitch is that it forms a sort of yarn line. The crocheters of the time made some beautiful items - using that 'line' - as decoration, crafting it to do exactly what they wanted. Yet, the tightness of the stitch itself still made it a good choice for warm clothing. Its really not much more than single crochet (sc), it just has the extra tread. It was during that time that this stitch took on the name - Sweater Stitch. This is the first time you'll see, and learn, the term Yarn Over (abbreviated YO). Basically it is the process of putting the yarn over (sort of around) your crochet hook. Half Double Crochet (hdc) uses this technique for every stitch. There are some that insist that the yarn must go around behind, some say it must go around in front. I'm here to say - if it gets the job done, works and looks correct, you're doing it right. The purse you ll learn to make (pictured to the left) primarily uses Half Double Crochet. It s a beautiful accessory that s simple and eloquent. If you wish to sell items you ve made with this pattern please reference Mom s Crochet in your product description, as the place you purchased the pattern, and use this link: All text and photos are original. Copyright by Sandy Marie All rights reserved. No part of this document may be copied or reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission from the author. You can contact Sandy Marie via Mom s Crochet ( or Mom s Crochet Shop ( MomsCrochetShop), on FaceBook ( or at: MomsCrochet@gmail.com.

3 Half Double Crochet (hdc) page number 2 This is the way I do Yarn Over (yo). You are basically making a 'false' stitch on the hook. Begin Half Double Crochet (hdc) with a Yarn Over (yo). Look closely at the picture. Do you see how my Yarn Over (yo) has formed a loop / stitch? It goes around the hook. Place your hook into the designated stitch. Catch the yarn on the other side. In this picture it shows catching your yarn with a Yarn Over (YO). It doesn't have to be behind or in front - whatever works. This picture shows what it would look like if you just caught your yarn without doing the Yarn Over (YO).

4 page number 3 Pull the yarn through all 3 stitches / loops on the hook. This is what one, Half Double Crochet (hdc), looks like when done. There is one tricky thing about working with Half Double Crochet (hdc), that being - where to insert your hook on the following rows after the row on your chain. I strongly suggest you play with this stitch and learn how different placements look. This 'tricky' situation is why crocheters of old loved this stitch - you can create some beautiful and really different appearances just by picking up the next row using a different thread (or hook position). Just so you know - there are 5 locations to pick up stitches for the next row. There are only 2 locations that most patterns (now days) call for. The hook positions used most in today s crocheting are #4 and #5 (in the picture below). In the picture to the left you see numbers on the piece. These show you the 5 locations that you 'could' crochet into. You'll note that you do have to be careful where you put your crochet hook. This different look and the flexibility is what makes this stitch so much fun. You could make 5 different scarves, all using half double crochet, but using a different hook placement - they would all look a little different.

5 Note the subtle differences in each swatch below. page number 4 #1 Hook Position: Picking up only that very front stitch will create a row that looks like chain stitches on the back and creates a lacy look between the chain stitch looking rows. #2 Hook Position: Picking up only the middle thread will make your yarn line in the back with a lacy looking center. #3 Hook Position: Picking up both the front stitches creates a flat warm piece with a thread line. #4 Hook Position: Picking up just the back stitch (one of the common instructions in today's patterns) creates that chain stitch look again, however it appears tighter and warmer. #5 Hook Position: Picking up both the top stitches is the most common way to do the Half Double Crochet (hdc) stitch. This creates a single crochet (sc) look only with a thread line every 2 rows.

6 page number 5 The Slip Stitch The underrated slip stitch is used for sewing, connecting pieces together, as a finishing edge, and for repositioning your crochet hook to a new starting location on your work. I also use it to make a good tie string out of a chain (instructions included later). When you learn how to crochet this stitch should be learned along with the single crochet stitch as its basically a half single crochet. Or the moment you need to put two pieces of work together. If you were working in Single Crochet you d draw up a loop and bring it through the two loops on your hook. To make a Slip Stitch you bring the loop through the first one on hook. In this picture the top row, that looks like a chain, is Crochet Slip Stitch, the others are single crochet. Can you see the difference in the rows? Start just like you would for a single crochet stitch - insert the crochet hook where you want the stitch to be. Catch the yarn on the other side and draw through a loop. Again, this is just like you would for Single Crochet. Here s where it changes - bring that same loop through the loop that's already on your crochet hook.

7 In this picture I ve done a Slip Stitch about half way across. page number 6 This 'look' is the main reason this stitch is often used as a finishing edge. Without actually increasing the size (with another row) of your piece it does even the look. I would use this stitch around the edge of a purse flap. How to make a strong tie string / cord. Make a chain as long as you want your tie string / cord to be. Slip Stitch into the bottom loop of the chain all the way back over your chain. This is great for making a tie cord for a hoodie, a pair of shorts or pants, a drawstring bag, or anything that requires a matching cord. When I was younger I even made the strings for my tennis shoes (often with WILD colors).

8 page number 7 The Mattress Stitch - a.k.a. The Invisible Stitch The Mattress Stitch joins two pieces of work together with a sturdy seam that becomes almost invisible. The best part of this stitch is that there is no lump or ridge (as would be left with a slip stitch or single crochet seam). I ve heard, many times, that the sewing is the least fun for most people. They limit themselves to patterns that work in a round - just to avoid sewing. This stitch is so easy that you ll love doing it - and working with it will open the doors to many shaped patterns and beautiful garments. As a general rule of thumb, if you know you re going to sew something together - leave a tail that s about 3 to 4 times the finished length of the piece. This way you don t have to tie sewing thread on and there s less loose ends to hide later. Thread your yarn needle and insert it in the TOP, first stitch of the opposite piece. Its VERY important to remember to ALWAYS go from the outside to the inside (or seam side). Then repeat this process - from outside to inside - in the next top thread of the opposite piece. Pause about every 3 or 4 stitches. You ll be performing the magic of making the seam thread disappear.

9 page number 8 Holding the bottom of your work (where you started) lay your thread going straight up (to the top of your work) and gently pull the thread tight. Pulling the thread tight will weave it into the piece and make it as close to invisible as it can be. Be careful not to pull too tight as you do not want your work to pucker. Then resume sewing for the next 3-4 stitches, pausing and pulling it tight, until you ve reached the end of your seam. Its just that easy. If you wish to sell items you ve made with this pattern please reference Mom s Crochet in your product description, as the place you purchased the pattern, and use this link: All text and photos are original. Copyright by Sandy Marie All rights reserved. No part of this document may be copied or reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission from the author. You can contact Sandy Marie via Mom s Crochet ( or Mom s Crochet Shop ( MomsCrochetShop), on FaceBook ( or at: MomsCrochet@gmail.com.

10 Half Double Crochet Ripple Purse Materials and Tools: page number 9 This Crochet Purse pattern is mostly half double crochet (hdc) with a small amount of single crochet (sc) and uses the slip stitch (sl st) to close it and to create the drawstring. The crochet handbag, finished, measures 7 inches across and 11 inches tall, can be made larger (you'll see instructions for a larger bag in parenthesis), and can easily be lined with fabric. Why not make a purse to match every outfit you have, or to match every pair of shoes you own? I like to write all patterns in full language with the abbreviations in parenthesis. At least 4 ounces of any worsted, 4 ply yarn. I used Red Heart Super Saver Fleck - Aran Fleck. If your stitches are naturally a little more loose you may want to have 5 ounces on hand (just in case). If you are making a full size purse you ll need to double the amount of yarn you have. A size I / mm Crochet Hook. If you go with a smaller crochet hook (like size H / mm) your stitches will be a little tighter and your crochet handbag will be a little smaller. Naturally, a larger hook (like size J / mm) will make looser stitches and a slightly larger purse. I would not go lower than size H or higher than size J. A small scissors (any scissors will do, you just need it to cut the yarn). Gauge is not important in this crochet purse pattern. If you wish to sell items you ve made with this pattern please reference Mom s Crochet in your product description, as the place you purchased the pattern, and use this link: All text and photos are original. Copyright by Sandy Marie All rights reserved. No part of this document may be copied or reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission from the author. You can contact Sandy Marie via Mom s Crochet ( or Mom s Crochet Shop ( MomsCrochetShop), on FaceBook ( or at: MomsCrochet@gmail.com.

11 Pattern Instructions: page number 10 If you are using a 'pull skein' (a skein of yarn that has a center thread that you can pull out - rather than using an outside thread) pull a few feet out to make sure it isn't knotting on the inside. Chain (ch) 66 stitches. (If you'd like to make a full size crochet purse, Chain (ch) 132 stitches.) Row 1: Crocheting into the Chain (ch) - Single Crochet (sc) in the second, top loop only, from the crochet hook. Crochet across the chain (ch) for a total of 65 single crochet (sc) stitches (for the large crochet purse you'll have a total of 131 single crochet (sc) stitches.) Rows 2 and 3: Chain (ch) 1 and turn your work getting ready to single crochet (sc) back the other way. Picking up both loops at the top of each stitch, you will single crochet (sc), 65 stitches (large crochet purse = 131 stitches), back across. This would be row number 2 - repeat it again for row number 3. The above rows actually form the bottom of the crochet purse, single crochet (sc) makes it a little more sturdy.

12 Working the Ripple in Half Double Crochet page number 11 Row 4: Chain (ch) 1 and turn your work. (NOTE: Most patterns will call for you to chain (ch) 2 and turn your work, when using half double crochet (hdc). This crochet purse pattern uses a chain (ch) 1, to form a tighter side, making the seam you will sew at the end of the project - sturdier.) Work a half double crochet (hdc) in the second stitch from the hook (in other words, you'll be skipping the first stitch location). In this picture it looks like 3 because I've already done my chain (ch) 1 and I've pulled the crochet hook to the right to give you a better view. And - work a half double crochet (hdc) in the next 3 stitches. Work 3 half double crochet (hdc) in the next stitch. Crochet 1 half double crochet (hdc) in the next 4 stitches. Skip 2 stitches and do 1 half double crochet (hdc) in the next 4 stitches.

13 I bet you've figured out the stitch pattern you'll be following to make this crochet purse. * 1 Half Double Crochet (hdc) in 4 stitches. * 3 Half Double Crochet (hdc) in the next stitch. * 1 Half Double Crochet (hdc) in 4 stitches. * Skip 2 stitches. continue to the end. The small purse will have 6 ripples (as pictured here). The large crochet purse will have 12 ripples. page number 12 (It may be easier to have a piece of scratch paper handy and log your rows with a hash mark on the paper. What you just finished would be row number 4.) Rows 5-28 (for the large purse 33): You will simply continue the ripple pattern until you reach the desired number of rows. And, you don't have to go a total of 28 (33) rows. If you want your crochet purse to be taller - keep going. If you want it to be more squat - stop. One of the nice things about this pattern is that you can improvise easily and truly make your drawstring crochet handbag exactly what YOU want it to be. There are only 2 tricky areas to keep in mind: First Tricky Area: The Beginning of Each Row At the beginning, after you've chained (ch) 1 and have turned your work - you will always skip the first stitch and then do your 4 half double crochet (hdc) stitches to the first peak (see picture to the left). Also make sure you are picking up the TOP 2 stitches as you crochet across. See the instructions, on page 4, for half double crochet hook placement.

14 Second Tricky Area: The End of Each Row page number 13 From now on you will skip the second to the last stitch and half double crochet (hdc) into the last stitch. This can sometimes be hard to see because you are only chaining (ch) 1 and turning, so be careful here. You can't really see the skipped stitch but it is important to keep the pattern even and keep your side even. And Now - Putting Your Purse Together When you ve reached the height you want (number of rows) DO NOT CUT YOUR YARN After 28 rows (33 for the large purse) you're piece should look like the picture above. Remember - if you are making a large purse - you'll have 12 ripples. To close it you can either use a Slip Stitch (sl st) (instruction on page 6) or the Mattress Stitch (instruction on page 8). If you are using the Slip Stitch (I ll be showing you in a moment) you ll continue with yarn still attached to the skein. If you are using the Mattress Stitch you ll want to measure your thread SIX (6) times the length from top to bottom. This length of thread will also be enough to sew the bottom seam without starting a new thread.

15 page number 14 Fold your newly crocheted fabric in half with the single crocheted (sc) edges together and the straight edges together. Sew down the straight side using a Slip Stitch (sl st). Be careful to keep the sides even. Remember these instructions are for using a Slip Stitch (sl st) not the Mattress Stitch. If you re using the Mattress Stitch you ll need to lay your work flat. This shows what the sewn seam looks like down to the single crochet (sc) edge. In that corner do 3 single crochet (sc) stitches (if you are using the Mattress Stitch you would NOT do 3 in the corner). Then slip stitch (sl st) the bottom edge together. Snip your yarn. I tie the two strings together in a knot for a little extra security. Then I trim them to about an inch. No need to weave them into the fabric as they will be inside the purse. Turn your crochet purse right side out and shape your seams a little so they straighten up. I do this by just pushing on them a little bit.

16 Making The Drawstrings - You will make 2. page number 15 * For the small purse chain (ch) then slip stitch (sl st) back for a total of 100 stitches. * For a large purse chain (ch) then slip stitch (sl st) back for a total of 180 stitches. Making the Drawstring is explained in more detail on page 7. Weaving The Drawstrings into the Crochet Handbag One drawstring weaves into the purse so the ends come out on the right side, the other so the ends come out on the left side. Use the same holes to weave the drawstrings, however arrange them so one is on the inside and the other is on the outside. By weaving them this way all you have to do is pull on the opposite strings and the purse will close. Decorate your purse however you like, or leave it as it is. You can sew on beads, crocheted flowers, pockets, tassels on the end of the drawstrings, or fringe on the bottom of the purse. A very good friend of mine would sew on pieces of jewelry or earrings that no longer had a mate. If you also sew your own clothing create a pocket from the fabric of a new outfit and / or line your purse with your outfit fabric. The possibilities are endless - let your imagination run wild. If you wish to sell items you ve made with this pattern please reference Mom s Crochet in your product description, as the place you purchased the pattern, and use this link: All text and photos are original. Copyright by Sandy Marie All rights reserved. No part of this document may be copied or reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission from the author. You can contact Sandy Marie via Mom s Crochet ( or Mom s Crochet Shop ( MomsCrochetShop), on FaceBook ( or at: MomsCrochet@gmail.com.