Treating Acne in Ethnic Skin. Beatriz Zevallos, MD
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1 Treating Acne in Ethnic Skin Beatriz Zevallos, MD
2 Acne Most common skin disease in general population as well as African American and Hispanics Second most common skin disease in Asians
3 Pathophysiology of Acne Sebaceous follicle ductal hypercornification Hyperseborrhea Increased number of P. acnes inflammation
4 Acne vulgaris Types of Acne Acne conglobata Acne fulminans Acne excoriee Other types include mechanical, occupational, drug-induced, neonatal, and infantile
5 Acne Vulgaris Most common Three types of lesions Non-inflamed lesions Inflamed lesions Scars Vivier A. Atlas of Clinical Dermatology Third Edition. London: Elsevier Limited, 2002.
6 Acne Vulgaris Non-inflamed lesions Microcomedones Closed comedones (whiteheads) Open comedones (blackheads) Inflamed lesions Papules Pustules Nodules cysts
7 Scars Acne Vulgaris Atrophic scars Ice pick Rolling Boxcar Hypertrophic Keloids
8 Acne Conglobata Chronic, severe form of inflammatory acne Characterized by grouped comedones, cysts, abscesses, draining sinus tracts and scars Vivier A. Atlas of Clinical Dermatology Third Edition. London: Elsevier Limited, 2002.
9 Acne Fulminans Multiple, intensely inflamed nodules, cysts, and plaques Vivier A. Atlas of Clinical Dermatology Third Edition. London: Elsevier Limited, 2002.
10 Acne Excoriee Predominantly found in young adult women Picking and scratching of lesions leads to inflammation and crusting Vivier A. Atlas of Clinical Dermatology Third Edition. London: Elsevier Limited, 2002.
11 Acne in Ethnic Skin Two consequences of acne occur at significantly greater rates in darkly pigmented kin Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) Keloids High incidence of PIH with acne patients with skin of color
12 Acne in Ethnic Skin Incidence of PIH with acne and acnerelated hyperpigmented macules: African American patients: 65% Hispanic patients: 53% Asian patients: 47% Taylor SC et al. Acne vulgaris in skin of color. J Am Acad Dermatol 2002;46:S98-S106.
13 PIH and Acne High prevalence of PIH attributed to increased of melanocytes in pigmented skin Inflammation or trauma triggers increase in melanogenesis or a release of melanin from labile melanocytes Marked inflammation may also contribute Halder Rm et al. A clinicopathological study of acne vulgaris in black females. J Invest Dermatol 1996;160:888.
14 Treatment of Acne Topical agents the first-line of treatment Topical retinoids are essential in treatment of acne vulgaris and associated acne vulgaris in skin of color and associated PIH
15 Tretinoin Tazarotene Adapelene Topical Retinoids
16 Topical Retinoids Potential risk of irritant contact dermatitis, which can also result in PIH Mechanism of action Anti-inflammatory properties Normalization of follicular epithelium Loosen comedones and prevent sebum build up
17 Topical Retinoids Used for mild acne that is nonscarring, has open and closed comedones, and moderate pustules Need to be maintained to have comedolytic effects Onset of improvement usually takes 8 weeks
18 Adapelene Studies African American patients with Fitzpatrick IV-VI Adapelene gel 0.1% significantly reduced number of inflammatory lesions and caused less erythema and scaling Reduction in number and density of post-inflammatory hyperpigmented macules Czernielewski J et al. Efficacy and cutaneous safety of adapelene in black patients versus white patients with acne vulgaris. Cutis 2002;70(4):
19 Asian Acne Study Adapelene gel 0.1% compared with tretinoin gel 0.25% in randomized study of 150 Chinese patients for 8 weeks Both adapelene and tretinoin shown to reduce number of inflammatory and non inflammatory lesions Tretinoin caused more irritation Tu P, Li G, Zhu X et al. A comparison of adapelene gel 0.1% versus tretinoin 0.25% in the treatment of acne vulgaris in China. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venerol 2001;15(suppl):31-36.
20 Topical Antibiotics Topical antimicrobials effective in reducing levels of P. acnes Erythromycin Clindamycin Antibiotic resistance concern with longterm use
21 Topical Antibiotics Resistance can be reduced by use of benzoyl peroxide Primary consideration with benzoyl peroxide is minimizing irritation and drying effects that could lead to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
22 Azelaic Acid Topical azelaic acid 20% cream effective in managing acne in ethnic skin Reduces inflammatory and noninflammatory acne lesions Decreases hyperpigmentation via tyrosinase inhibitory effects Comparable efficacy to tretinoin, benzoyl peroxide, erythomycin, clindamycin Filton A, Goa K. Azelaic acid: a review of its pharmacological properties and therapeutic efficacy in acne and hyperpigmentary skin disorders. Drugs 1991;41:
23 Depigmenting Agents Adjunctive use of depigmenting agents to improve PIH commonly incorporated in acne treatment for ethnic skin Agents used Hydroquinone Azelaic acid Kojic acid
24 Chemical Peels Superficial peeling agents effective and sage in darker skin types Benefits of peels in ethnic skin Treat existing primary and secondary lesions Improvement of PIH Improved absorption of topical agents
25 Chemical Peels for Acne Glycolic acid buffered 30-50% Jessner s solution Salicylic acid 25% Pyruvic acid 40-70% TCA 25-30% Unna paste (resorcinol 40%) Phenol 45-80%
26 Comedonal acne Glycolic acid Jessner Salicylic Pyruvic acid Unna paste Indications
27 Indications Mild/moderate inflammatory acne Salicylic acid Pyruvic acid Glycolic acid Jessner Unna paste Severe nodulo-cystic acne Pyruvic acid
28 Indications Superficial post acneic scars Pyruvic acid TCA Salicylic plus TCA Medium-deep post acneic scars Phenol TCA >40%
29 Frequency of Application Glycolic acid: 3-6 peels every 1-2 weeks Jessner s solution: 3 peels every 2 weeks Salicylic acid 25%: 3-8 peels every 2-4 weeks Pyruvic acid 40-70%: 3-8 peels every 2-4 weeks Salicylic acid plus 25-30% TCA: 5-6 peels every 4-5 weeks Phenol: 1 treatment Tosti A, Grimes PE, DePadova MP, ed. Color Atlas of Chemical Peels. New York, Springer
30 Advantages of Various Salicylic acid Agents Safety and efficacy in darker phototypes (V-VI) Possible association with other substances such as TCA and pyruvic acid to improve absorption Easier to manage than glycolic acid in terms of uniformity of application Salicylic acid and pyruvic acid better than glycolic and Jessner in terms of risk of side effects and patient discomfort Glycolic acid preferred over Jessner: equal treatment effect but lesser degree of exfoliation in glycolic acid Tosti A, Grimes PE, DePadova MP, ed. Color Atlas of Chemical Peels. New York, Springer
31 Pre-Treatment Pre-treatment with 4% hydroquinone to reduce post-peel hyperpigmentation in skin types IV-VI Topical retinoids discontinued 1 week before peel and restarted 5-7 days after the peel
32 Chemical Peel Study 9 patients with darker skin types with acne vulgaris treated with series salicylic peels Moderate to significant clearing of ance vulgaris occurred in 8 of 9 (89%) Grimes PE. The safety and efficacy of salicylic acid chemical peels in darker racial ethnic groups. Dermatol Surg 1999;25:18-22.
33 Tosti A, Grimes PE, DePadova MP, ed. Color Atlas of Chemical Peels. New York, Springer Acne Results
34 Tosti A, Grimes PE, DePadova MP, ed. Color Atlas of Chemical Peels. New York, Springer Acne Results
35 Acne Treatment with Laser & Light
36 Q-SWITCHING The Q-Switch acts as an extremely high speed shutter. It allows the Nd:YAG rod to store a large amount of energy. Allows a single, high energy, high speed pulse to exit the cavity.
37 Laser Toning-Active Acne 1064nm, 6.0mm spot size, 3.5 J/cm2, 8 treatments 1 week intervals Images Courtesy of Skin Laser Clinic, Taipei, Taiwan
38 Laser Toning-Active Acne 1064nm, 6.0mm spot size, 3.5 J/cm2, 8 treatments 1 week intervals Images Courtesy of Skin Laser Clinic, Taipei, Taiwan
39 Acne and Ethnic Skin Cystic and inflammatory acne common Bad scarring can occur Distressing PIH and erythema can last for months Elos Acne laser treatment gives overall improvement of acne and acne scars Can be performed 2x/month or more in combination with traditional medical treatment
40 THE CHALLENGE with ethnic skin Traditional lasers and IPL systems are very challenging to use because excessive epidermal absorption of optical energy can lead to complications!!!
41 Possible Complications Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) Permanent hypopigmentation Prolonged recovery, erythema and dyschromia with invasive resurfacing techniques Scarring/keloids No effect from treatment with lower energy parameters ( very common)
42 Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) Most common complication Can occur whenever there is enough trauma or inflammation regardless of actual cause Histologically increased melanin pigment production in the epidermis and dermis Discoloration can last for many months Patients should be advised before treatment
43 Hyperpigmentation and Persistent Erythema after CO2 Laser Skin Resurfacing
44 Technological Migration to Multiple Energies elos Lasers IPL TM and Up
45 PDT for Acne on Ethnic skin Before Dr. Mauricio s Actual Patient After 2 treatments
46 Acne and Acne Scars elos AC applicator Before Dr. Mauricio s Actual Patient After
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