Fabrics and Weaves a Primer

Transcription

1 Fabrics and Weaves a Primer Those interested in hand embroidery are generally interested in fabrics. Knowing what fabric to choose for a given embroidery technique makes the difference between failure and accomplishment. Knowing how to purchase it can also mean saving money. Many shops who cater to the needleworker will sell fabrics in small blocks. Some even sell by the inch. Fabric comes in varying widths, from 32" to more than 100". In normal sewing, when you purchase fabric, you purchase in increments of the yard. So, if you were purchasing a quarter yard of fabric, and the width of the fabric was 42", you would be purchasing a piece of fabric that is 9" long (down the selvage edge) by 42" wide. This is a handy way to measure when making garments, tablecloths, draperies, but isn't much use for the embroiderer or quilter. So, for needleworkers, a different way of measuring has evolved. Many shops allow you to purchase fabrics in fat quarters and fat halfs. Perfect sizes for a variety of projects. A fat quarter (illustrated at right) is one-half yard of fabric cut lengthwise (note the selvage edge in gray), then one-half the width of the fabric. So, for a fabric that is 42" wide, you would end up with a piece of fabric 21" wide x 18" long. A fat half of the same fabric would be 21" wide x 36" long. When contemplating a purchase for the size you need, always ask the store how wide the fabric is before ordering. For very small projects, you may also wish to inquire whether they sell by the inch. Do remember, however, to allow yourself extra for lacing, raveling, and a suitable border (extra fabric) around the design. Most all embroidery that is counted - which covers a lot of techniques from delicate shadow work on fine muslins, Dresden lace, pulled work, drawn thread, and cross stitch - is worked on a plain weave.

2 Before we talk about weaves, however, let's talk about how fabric is made in general terms. On looms, long warp threads are first laid - top to bottom in illustration at right. Then weft threads are woven in with a shuttle from left to right and back again, over and over along the length of the warp threads. These edges form what is known as the selvage - variously spelled salvage and selvedge. This edge doesn't ravel because of the loops formed. Depending upon the weaving process, this selvage can be cantankerous, in that it might be so tight it can distort the fabric when used in a seam; or, it can be smooth and similarly woven as the balance of the cloth and can be useful in sewing situations for a tiny seam to be strong with no raveling. The warp (lengthwise) threads are the strongest with very little, if any, stretch. Weft threads are not as strong, and there can be some stretch, or play, when fabric is pulled width-wise. For this reason, draperies, slacks, skirts are normally cut with the length following the warp threads so that hems have less tendency to become wavey as the fabric hangs for long periods. Counted stitchers normally work on a fabric that is called a plain weave. It is woven like the illustration at right. Each thread is over one, under one in both directions. Plain weaves can also be even weaves, though not necessarily. Even weave means that there are the same number of weft threads per inch as there are warp threads per inch. Plain weaves can, for instance, 28 threads per inch, or higher than 220 threads per inch. Even Weaves: Let's review Plain weave means one thread over and under in both directions. By far, most fabrics manufactured are plain weaves. The fiber used when it is woven, its quality and thickness, and the finishing process determines the final appearance. Some are as shiny and gossamer as

3 imaginable, and others are thick and loosely woven. It is not the fiber which determines whether or not it is a plain weave, it is the weaving process. Even weave means the same number of threads per inch in both directions. As an example, a twill weave can be an even weave. Many different fibers lend themselves to more than one weaving process, whether plain, satin (which includes the damask weave), twill (which includes the gaberdine weave), or velvet. Twill weaves are highly varied, and in its simple form, can even be used effectively in counted embroidery. In the same manner, an even weave can be rayon, polyester, cotton, silk, wool, acrylic, linen or mixtures of these and other fibers. So, where does the term "evenweave" derive? It has come to be common vernacular in the counted stitchers' vocabulary because of marketing identification by manufacturers. Before the advent of all our lovely man-made fibers, the bulk of embroidery was worked upon cotton, silk, wool and linen. When cross stitch became popular in the late 1970's, designers wanted different backgrounds to highlight their designs. Linen and high-quality cotton can be expensive to procure and process as well as difficult to produce in even weaves. So, manufacturers came up with alternatives by using man-made fibers such as polyester and rayon, sometimes mixing them with linen, silk, or cotton. When they began to market them to the general audience that loved to cross stitch, they marketed them as "evenweaves" to differentiate them from linen and cotton to a public that generally has had little exposure to sewing and fabric. But it has turned out to be confusing terminology, because unaware embroiderers now say "linen or evenweave" as if they were two separate entities, or that one might be better for a project than another. In fact, a rayon even weave of 28-count is no different (except for look and feel and possibly longevity) than is a linen or cotton even weave of 28-count. Weaves and Uses A quick look at the illustration at right will also illustrate that, because two different fabrics are 28-count, they may not have the same use. Both fabrics are 5 threads in the same amount of space. The blue fabric at left has larger (fatter) ground threads making it more densely woven, leaving little space between the threads. The green fabric at right has finer ground threads with lots more open space between the threads. The green fabric would work up into a nice, airy pulled work sample, the blue fabric lends itself well to cross stitch, drawn thread and many other types of embroidery.

4 Another type of even weave: Aida Aida is also known as java cloth. It comes in varying counts, from 6 to 20, depending upon manufacturer. Above and right is a rough graphic of the weaving process of aida. It falls under its own category of weave, just as huck and velvet. The four threads which comprise the "group" of the weave are tightly packed together, leaving small spaces in between. These spaces help the stitcher to more easily see the spot that requires the needle to go in or out. The difficulty with aida is that fractional stitches aren't accomplished with ease, and pulled work is not often suitable on it. But aida is a great friend to the stitcher, from beginner to advanced. Its texture lends itself well to the unstitched areas of a pattern. Aida comes in many qualities and colors and it can be used in situations that plain, even weaves do not lend themselves. It is an excellent substitute for huck and other fabrics where weaving (darning) patterns are desired. There is also a 22-count fabric wherein the ground threads are grouped in pairs. It is a plain weave and an even weave. It is similar to the waste canvas illustration below. This fabric is known as Hardanger because of its ease in working this Norwegian embroidery. Basket weave is also an even weave The plain basket weave is also used whenever a gridded design is required. This illustration shows a typical basket weave, wherein 4 threads are woven simultaneously over, then under 4 threads. Currently, a common basket weave fabric used for darning (weaving) patterns is called monks cloth, which was invented in the late 1930's and principally used for curtains at that time. The designs for Swedish weaving, also known as huck or huckaback darning, are being used on this cloth. Huck is a cloth similar to aida which has floats under which fibers and ribbons are darned. Monks cloth does not have floats.

5 Counted cross stitch embroidery can also be worked on uncountable grounds, such as satin, complicated twills and velvet - even knits. It requires, however, a type of canvas cloth with a two-thread plain weave known as waste canvas. Waste canvas is an even weave, heavily starched, with large spaces between the two-thread group. As shown, darker threads are woven every 5 groups to aid the stitcher in counting. These threads are removed after the embroidery is finished. There are many types of weaves that produce a variety of fabrics that enhance embroidery. The trick is knowing what to use and when to use it. When it comes to even weaves, understand that as it relates to fabrics, it simply means the same number of threads in both directions. Finally, remember that the term "evenweave" is a marketing concept to designate fabrics generally sold to the counted and cross stitch consumer that are of manmade fibers that may, or may not, be truly an even weave. Like the term "cross stitch" needle, there is no such thing as evenweave except in the minds of marketers.