DIY Pants Fitting By Linda Lee

Transcription

1 DIY Pants Fitting By Linda Lee 1

2 DIY Fitting Your Own Pants Pattern Not many of us enjoy the benefit of living near a sewing school or having an friend who is an expert at fitting pants. So we are left to our own devices when it comes to fitting a pants pattern. This tutorial outlines the most common pattern alterations for an elastic waist pants style that you can do on your own. Plaza Pants 2

3 The First Step Measuring Start by pinning a 1"-wide piece of elastic around your natural waist. Measure your waist, leaving one finger behind the tape measure. Remember to breathe! We use a piece of Stretchrite Woven Polyester Flat Non-Roll elastic. Most of our patterns require 1"-wide elastic, so that is replicated in the measuring process. Use the elastic size that you prefer in your pants. 3

4 A Special Tape Measure We recommend using a reversible tape measure that has inches on both sides and the number 1 starts at each end on opposite sides. In the following pages, you will see why this flip-andmeasure tape is useful. Back Side Front Side 60" Reversible Tape Measure PSS242 $4.00 4

5 Measure the Hips The high hip is usually measured over the fullest part of the tummy. Record this measurement and also the distance below the waist. Full Hip Record the full hip measurement and the distance below the waist. High Hip Now you can see the benefit of using a flip-and-measure tape measure! 5

6 Measure the Stride Measure from the bottom of the elastic in the back to the bottom of the elastic in the front and add at least 1". Add more inches (1 to 2") to this measurement if you are a size 16 or more and/or have a plump derrière. Don t pull the tape too much. A little slack is better than too tight. 6

7 Measure the Length Stand on the 1" mark on the tape and measure to the bottom of the elastic at the waist. This measurement should be long enough to accommodate a flat or short-heeled shoe. If you wear high heels, then add more length. Or better yet, measure the length of a pair of pants that you like. 7

8 Find Your Starting Size Using the full hip measurement, find the closest measurement on the size chart on the pattern envelope. This is your starting size. Model s Measurements Size Large Waist 37½" High Hip 42½" at 2" down from waist Full Hip 42" at 5" down from waist Stride 28½" Length 36½" 8

9 Standard Ease for Pants For most elastic waist pants styles, there should be a minimum of 4" of ease. This translates to being able to pinch-an-inch at the widest part of your hips. The style of the pants, the fabric, and your personal fit preference play into the amount of appropriate ease. Minimum Pants Ease Waist 1" to 2" Hip 2" - Fitted Pants 4" - Elastic Waist Pants Crotch Length 1" - If hips are less than 37" 1½" - If hips are 37"-40" 2" - If hips are 40" or more 9

10 Measure the Crotch Curve Do all lengthening and shortening adjustments first, then alter the widths. Measure the crotch curves on the finished seamlines on the front and back pattern pieces. Compare the sum of these two numbers to your stride measurement. In order to curve the tape, stand it on its edge when measuring. Lengthen or shorten as needed. If you do nothing else beyond this measurement and adjustment, you will be amazed how much better your pants will fit! 10

11 Measure Total Length Measure the finished length of the side seam (waist seamline to finished hem line). Compare this number to your recorded measurement. WRONG SIDE Lengthen or shorten as needed. Use a hip curve to blend the cutting lines. HIP CURVE Use the lengthen or shorten lines printed on the pattern or alter in the center of the leg at approximately the knee. If altering more than 6", split the amount into two and lengthen or shorten 3" above and below the original line. 11

12 Alter the Waist On page 8, you determined your starting size based on your hip measurement. If your waist measurement is the same or less than your hips, then this size will likely be fine. If your waist is larger than your hips, you might need to increase the waist. Flat pattern measuring will confirm the need to alter the waist. In elastic waist pants, measure the pattern along the waistline to see if you need to increase the width at the top of the pants. 12

13 Fitting a Muslin Back You might need a buddy for this one, but you can probably tell if the pants are any of the following: Waistline pulls down Too tight Need more crotch length Too tight across the back Waistline pulls down Need more crotch length Back legs are too full Back legs too full WRONG SIDE 13

14 Full Seat Minor Adjustment Add to the back seam. Flatten the crotch curve. Add length at the waistline. Think in terms of adding more fabric when reshaping the crotch curve. 14

15 Full Seat - Major Adjustment At 4" above and below the crotch point, draw lines perpendicular to the grainline. WRONG SIDE Connect the ends of these lines along the grainline. Cut the section out. Move this wedge outward adding the amount needed. Blend the cutting lines. WRONG SIDE RIGHT SIDE Add up to 1" to sizes smaller than 16. Add up to 1½" to sizes 16 and larger. 15

16 Flat Seat Draw a line from the center back to the side seam halfway between the crotch point and the waist. WRONG SIDE Cut along this line, leaving a hinge at the side seam. Without moving the bottom part of the pattern, overlap the top part of the pattern at the center back the amount needed and tape in place. Using a curved ruler, restore the center back cutting line. WRONG SIDE RIGHT SIDE You can decide at which point to begin to restore the line at the center back based on whether you need more or less room in the seat of the pants. 16

17 Wrinkles Below the Seat Draw a line 1½" below the crotch point and perpendicular to the grainline. Cut along this line, leaving a hinge at the side seam. Overlap the pattern about ³ ₈". Restore the inseam to its original shape. When constructing the pants, stretch the back inseam to fit the front inseam. 17

18 Back Legs Too Full Pin out the amount that is too full below your derrière. This is the amount you will remove in the following steps. RIGHT FRONT LEFT FRONT Pin excess fabric This may not be easy for you to see on your own, but you can reach back and feel the excess fullness. 18

19 Back Leg Too Full At 1" below the crotch point, draw a line perpendicular to the grainline in the center of the leg. Draw a second line from the end of the first line down to the bottom of the leg. When working with a one-seam pants pattern, find the location of where a side seam would be (usually indicated by a notch at the waistline), and then determine the center of the back leg. 19

20 Back Leg Too Full Cut the section out and overlap the amount that was pinned out. Tape in place. Restore the inseam curve. Beware! Overlapping more than about 1½" begins to alter the proportions of the pants, especially in a one-seam pant. 20

21 Fitting the Front The fabric is stretched across a full tummy preventing the fabric from hanging nicely. The vertical wrinkles start at the fullest part of the tummy. 21

22 Protruding Tummy Minor Adjustment Extend crotch seam up to ½". Add up to ½" of width to the center front seam. One or both of these adjustments can be made depending on the amount of extra room needed. 22

23 Protruding Tummy Major Adjustment Draw a line perpendicular to the grainline across the fullest part of the abdomen (remember that high hip measurement?). Cut along this line leaving a hinge at the side seam. Spread the pattern the amount needed and straighten the center front line. Blend the side seam. 23

24 Front Crotch Wrinkles There are two reasons for front crotch wrinkles. One reason for this is that the pants are too tight. For this correction, redraw the crotch curve to make it deeper. 24

25 Front Crotch Wrinkles The second reason for front crotch wrinkles is that there too much fabric in the crotch. Draw a line from the center front to the side seam starting where the crotch curve begins to straighten. Cut on this line, leaving a hinge at the side seam. Overlap the amount needed. Restore the center front seam. 25

26 One Last Great Tip! Sometimes a good fit is no more than re-setting the waistband. Before installing the waistband, try on your pants and pin the elastic around your waist. Position the pants until they are comfortable, evenly distributing the fullness under the elastic. Then chalk mark on the fabric right at the bottom of the elastic. Remove the pants and refine and connect the chalk marks. Add a seam allowance above the chalk line (don t forget this!). Cut the top of the pants off along your new cutting line. Lay the cut sections that you have removed on top of your pattern tissue and draw along the bottom of each piece. Now cut this off of your pattern so that the next time you make these pants, you won t have to think about where to set the waistband. It s done! 26

27 DIY Pants Fitting By Linda Lee 27