How to Salvage a Piece of Plywood Cut Too Short

Transcription

1 How to Salvage a Piece of Plywood Cut Too Short How to Salvage a Piece of Plywood Cut Too Short We all know the measure twice, cut once rule but we ve all been there I know I ve been there lots of times! I am human and I make mistakes! There, I said it. But then again, it might not be a mistake but a piece of plywood that is just too short for the project I ve been diligently working on and running to the home improvement store is out of the question! This is the same concept used to cover the exposed edges of plywood when edge banding is not used. Use pieces of regular board lumber and a Kreg jig to attach the lumber to the edges of the plywood. It really makes a super-neat edge and can be routed, if desired! Plus, it certainly saved me in a pinch! I was working on a cabinet and thought I had enough plywood for the project. The piece for the top was a hair short in both length and width. I drilled pocket holes in three edges of the top piece. I then cut pieces of pine at 2 wide by the length of the sides and drilled pocket holes in the sides of the plywood piece. I attached the pine pieces to the plywood with 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. I measured the overall length of the front and cut a piece of pine to fit. I attached the front piece in the same manner as the sides.

2 Now, the top piece is plenty big enough and a beautiful edge can be routed on it if desired. Until next time, Happy Creating! #DIY #build #woodworking Plans to Sideboard Build a Slim Plans to Build a Slim Sideboard Here are plans for a slim sideboard which would be perfect in an area that can t handle large furniture pieces. Don t let the slimness fool you There is plenty of storage with four drawers and a large cabinet area with a shelf!

3 Click on the drawings to enlarge! Materials: 1 pocket hole screws 1-1/4 pocket hole screws 2 pocket hole screws 1-1/4 brad nails Edge banding for plywood, if desired Four drawer pulls Four door handles or pulls Four sets of hinges (1/4 overlay hinges would be perfect!) Finishing supplies Lumber: Two full sheets of 3/4 plywood One half sheet of 1/2 plywood at at at at at at 8 Cut List: at 34-3/4 Legs at 10 Side & Center Frames at 10 Side Frames 2 3/4 plywood at 6-1/2 x 10 Side Frames

4 2 3/4 plywood at 10 x 16-3/4 Side Frames at 30-1/4 Aprons at 30-1/4 Stretchers 2 3/4 plywood at 29-1/2 x 30-1/4 Back Panels 3 3/4 plywood at 10 x 63 Shelves 2 3/4 plywood at 8 x 11-1/2 Drawer Dividers 1 3/4 plywood at 14 x 67 Top 4 3/4 plywood at 9-1/4 x 13 Drawer Bottoms at 10 Drawer Sides at 14-1/2 Drawer Front & Back 4 3/4 plywood at 7 x 15-1/4 Drawer Fronts at 10-5/16 Door Frame at 22-3/4 Door Frame 4 1/2 plywood at 10-5/16 x 17-3/4 Door Panels 1. Cut the pieces for the legs as well as the pieces for the frames and center frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the frame pieces using the appropriate setting for the thickness of the lumber. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 2 pocket hole screws. 2. Cut the pieces for the aprons and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs using glue and 2 pocket hole screws. Orient the pocket holes so they are facing up and will be hidden by the top.

5 3. Cut the pieces for the stretchers and drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. 4. Cut the pieces for the back. Drill pocket holes in all four edges. Attach as shown using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. 5. Cut the pieces for the shelves and drill pocket holes in each edge. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. The top face of the shelves will be flush with the top face of the stretchers. 6. Cut the pieces for the dividers. Cut the notch with a jigsaw and drill pocket holes as shown. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws.

6 7. Cut the piece for the top. The top will overlap the sides and front by 1. Attach to the cabinet using glue and 1-1/4 brad nails through the top into the aprons, frames, and dividers. 8. Cut the pieces for the drawers. Drill pocket holes in all edges of the bottom, as well as the ends of the side pieces. Assemble by attaching the sides to the bottom first with glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws, then attach the front and back using glue and screws. 9. Cut the pieces for the drawer fronts. The doors will overlap by 1/4 around all sides of the opening. For an easy tutorial on installing drawer fronts, click here.

7 10. Cut the pieces for the doors. Assemble as shown using 1-1/4 pocket hole screws to assemble the frame, and 1 pocket holes to attach the panels. The doors will overlap the legs (including the center leg) and stretchers by 1/4 with a 1/8 gap in the center between them. Any questions? Let me know I d be happy to help! Until next time, Happy Creating! #DIY #build #woodworking How to Duplicate Curves In Lumber Whenever I am building something from plans that call for more than one decorative notch or curve, I have a thing about them being exactly the same. It drives me crazy if they are

8 not! Is it some form of OCD? Probably We all have a touch of that somewhere in our lives! Generally, I avoid such plans because of the OCD-ness until I came up with an idea. Why not cut just one part out with the jigsaw, clamp the piece to the next one that needs to be cut, and use the router to duplicate the curve? Wahoo! Even if one curve is off a little, they are all off which keeps my brain from obsessive overload!! Tools: Jigsaw Router with Patterning Bit (or Flush Cutting Bit) Clamps Here is how it is is done: Start by drawing the curves and lines on the board that will need to be cut out. Use the jigsaw to cut it out

9 Clamp the piece to the next one Use a router with the patterning bit the bit with the guide bearing at the top is the one I use. Rout the second board with the guide following the board already cut out by the jig saw. That s it! I wouldn t have avoided so many great plans if I d thought of this before!

10 Until next time, Happy Creating!! Free Furniture Plans to Build a Desk Chair Free Furniture Plans to Build a Desk Chair I really like building chairs! They are so easy plus I can use quite a few of the scraps of lumber I ve been accumulating! Today, I will share plans to build a really easy desk chair. I built my example entirely out of plywood. Yep, I used Purebond plywood to make this beauty but I m having a hard time picking a finish The plans include a lumber list for regular off-the-shelf boards but

11 if you want to build one out of plywood scraps also, me at and I ll tell you how I did it! Click on the drawings to enlarge them! Materials: 2-1/2 pocket hole screws 2 pocket hole screws 1-1/4 pocket hole screws Pocket hole plugs or wood filler 1-1/4 brad nails Edge banding for the exposed edges of the plywood seat (optional) Wood glue Finishing supplies Tools: Kreg jig Drill Brad nailer Saw miter, circular, or jigsaw Lumber: One 2 2 at 8 One 1 3 at 6 One 1 2 at 8 2 x 2 sheet of 3/4 plywood Cut List:

12 Six 2 2 at 16-1/4 Legs Two 1 3 at 11-1/2 Aprons Two 1 3 at 14 Aprons Four 1 2 at 11-1/2 Back Slats & Center Stretcher Two 1 2 at 14 Stretchers One 3/4 plywood at 14-1/2 x 17 Seat Cut the pieces for the legs. Two of the pieces will have a 1/16 angle cut at the bottom. This angle is necessary for the angle of the back. Set the Kreg jig for 3/4 material and drill pocket holes in the bottom of the upper back pieces (the pieces with the angles). Attach to the back leg pieces using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. (See drawings) If you choose the back to be straight in line with the back legs, one continuous piece can be cut at 32-1/2. Cut the pieces for the aprons. Drill pocket holes in each end and attach to the legs as shown setting them 1/4 back from the outside faces of the legs. The 14 aprons will be the sides and the 11-1/2 aprons will be the front and back. Use glue and 2 pocket hole screws. Cut the pieces for the back slats. Drill pocket holes in each end and secure to the back legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws.

13 Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each and and secure tot he legs as shown using glue and 1-1/4 pocket hole screws. Locate them about 4 up from the bottom of the legs. Cut the piece for the seat. Apply edge banding, if desired, and attach to the chair frame using glue and 1-1/4 brad nails through the top of the seat into the aprons and legs. Thoroughly sand and finish the chair as desired! ** Please note these plans are designed and created by me. They are not to be sold without express written consent from me. They can be shared on any site as long as they are credited back to me!

14 How to Build a Side Table How to Build a Side Table A little over a year ago, Matt and I built a coffee table similar to one found in a high-end catalog. The catalog price was $399 yikes! We built the coffee table for about $50. Now it is time for matching end tables. The end tables in the catalog run $199 each and we built two of these beauties (yes, two!) that are a tad bit bigger at $30 for the pair!! The plans for the coffee table can be found here. I drew up the plans for the end tables myself in order to customize the size to fit our needs. The construction method is quite a bit different, also. The plan drawings are at the end of the post. Click on the drawings to enlarge them! Materials: Four 2 4 at 8 (stud length is fine also) One 4 4 post at 8 (these will be ripped down 3 x 3 ) Kreg jig and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws Stain or paint and sealer We started by cutting all of our lumber to length with the miter saw. These tables will each measure 18 x 24 x 20.

15 While I ripped the posts down to 3 x 3 on the table saw, Mr. Awesome drilled all of the pocket holes with the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2 material. Mr. Awesome sanded all of the pieces before assembly. At the same time, I assembled the table tops using glue, 2 pocket hole screws, and clamps. We attached the shorter apron to the legs using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. Because this piece is so short, we used a close-quarter drill to get into the tight space.

16 Next, we attached the longer aprons to the legs to connect everything together. After checking for square, we added the center support. Last, we placed the table top face down, centered the leg assembly on it, and drilled screws through the pocket holes in the aprons and support into the top.

17 Mr. Awesome stained the tables with Minwax stain in Provincial. After the stain was dry, we sealed the tables with Rust-Oleum s Ultimate Polyurethane in Satin. Wow! Fantastic work Cheap, too!! Until next time, Happy Creating!

18 Plans to build the side tables: Start by cutting all of the pieces to length. Drill pocket holes in the pieces as shown with the Kreg jig set for 1-1/2 material. Attach the shorter aprons to the legs using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. Attach the longer aprons with glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. After checking for square and making any necessary adjustments, attach the support in the center of the longer aprons using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. Assemble the table top as shown using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws. Attach to the leg assembly using glue and 2-1/2 pocket hole screws through the pocket holes drilled in the aprons and support. If you have any questions, please let me know!

19 #DIY #woodworking #build How to Apply Edge Banding to Plywood How to Plywood Apply Edge Banding to Plywood is one of the most economical building materials out there. It comes in various thicknesses, sizes, and species. Covering the edges can be a problem for some. The edges can be covered with small strips of solid wood to hide the layers but I am horrible at getting the strips to line up and be unnoticeable! Depending on the project, the edges can be thoroughly sanded and left exposed but sometimes I prefer a more finished look. That is where iron-on edge banding comes in I purchase mine from VeneerSupplies.com. Joe carries quite a selection of species at great prices! The service is unbeatable plus he carries Copper Veneer which looks really cool and I wish I could afford it! (I m a HUGE fan!) Anyway, applying edge banding is not hard at all but having the right tool (the edge banding trimmer) is the most important step! Some

20 pieces such as doors and drawer fronts will need edge banding applied to all four sides. Other pieces will only need edge banding on exposed areas. Today, I ll show you how I applied edge banding to pieces of fabulous walnut plywood I m going to turn into a cabinet (a post for later!). Materials: Plywood Edge banding to match the plywood Edge banding trim tool Scissors Regular household iron When using plywood in a project, it is best to apply the edge banding to each piece before assembly. I cut a couple of doors from the walnut plywood and need to apply the edge banding to it. I like to apply the edge banding to the sides first, then to the top and bottom. Set the iron on the polyester setting. The iron has to be hot enough

21 to melt the adhesive. If it is too hot, it will make a huge mess! Cut a piece of edge banding a little longer than the edge where it will be applied. Position it on the edge of the plywood and run the iron along the edge. Always let the adhesive cool before trimming it. Once it is cool, use a pair of scissors to trim the overlapping part of the banding flush with the edge of the plywood. To trim the long edges, start at one end and run the trimmer along the edge. I have a trimmer that cuts both sides at once. It is a little more expensive (I found mine on ebay) than the single edge trimmer but I find it saves a lot of time. Plus, refill blades are available!

22 Repeat the process for the top and bottom. Now, the plywood looks like a piece of solid wood! Sand the edges lightly with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper for a more finished look. Until next time, Happy Creating!