Jaguar X300 Loose wing mirror rebuild

Transcription

1 Jean-Éric Garnier JEGUAR 89 XJ40, 95 X300 Jaguar X300 Loose wing mirror rebuild V /15/05 Distribution: CC: X300 list administrator Re: An attempt to really fix the loose external (wing) mirror problem 1. Background The external mirror has been a common problem on X300s, where it tends to become loose. The problem is usually related to the three screws holding the «turn table» of the mirror to the fix base. As suggested in the X300 book, addressing this issue usually starts with a simple tightening of these three screws, but this is a temporary solution and over time the mirror will require more and more frequent tightening. The book also suggest using Loctite to prevent the screws from untightening. Shortly after I bought my 95 XJ6, it exhibited the loose wing mirror problem, and I found that tightening and Loctite were not going to help: The turn table is made of a fairly soft alloy allowing self threading screws. This design and choice of material is the root cause of the loose mirror problem. As you can see on the picture above, two of the cylinders in which the screws go were twist-cut by the over tightening, and the third one was cracked! So, when you first face the loose wing mirror issue DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE SCREWS. Use Loctite instead. Given the situation, some engineering was required. The document below details how I proceeded.

2 2. Taking the mirror apart I decided to repair the mirror on-site rather than completely removing it from the door The first step is to remove the painted plastic cover on the back of the mirror (pointing forward): just hold it in your finger, pry gently the lower part and pull backward. This will free a plastic tab which clips into the black frame and the cover will come out the next step is to remove the actual mirror which is clipped on a table operated by two small electric motors. After removing the cover in step 1, you can see through the black plastic frame and access the two clips indicated on the picture below : I used a flat blade screw driver to push on the sides of the clip while I was pulling on the mirror from the other side. Finally, disconnect the electric wires for the heating of the mirror You can now access the inner parts of the external mirror fromn the back of the assembly and remove the table driving the mirror s orientation which is held by three screws: After removing the screws, the table comes of easy. The rubber dust cover will also come off very easily. I helped the flat white electric connector out but pulling the notches on the sides with a flat blade screwdriver.

3 2.4. Then, remove the screws indicated below and slide out the black plastic frame of the mirror. I unplugged the white electric connector out but pulling the notches on the sides with a flat blade screwdriver off very easily. I helped the flat white electric connector out but pulling the notches on the sides with a flat blade screwdriver Remove the two more screws indicated below to free the main alloy plate before working on the spring assembly. To free the spring, you will need to remove the washer which clips into the grove in the central axis. I used a pair of pliers to push one edge of the wasfer down, while bending the blades out of the grove, one at a time. I was as gentle as possible on the blades as I intended to reuse the spring holding washer (at it worked!). Finally, I was able to remove the turn table and access the lower half of it from the top. Watch for the three small chrome cylinders fitted between the lower and upper half of the assembly (easily recognizable on the picture below).

4 3. The fix! Considering how the original design had failed, my approach was to put three standard screw (which are much more resistant) going through the holes pointed to in the picture above, with spring washers and nuts at the bottom of the assembly (where the head of the original screws sit) Preparing for the new screws: due to the limited space between the upper and lower half of the assembly, I chose flat head type screws with a countersunk portion. Two screws are 6 mm in diameter and 17 mm long, and the third screw is 4 mm in diameter and x 17 mm long. The smaller screw is used for the front most hole where there is a bit less room for the nut at the bottom. I used a 10 mm bit for iron, to partially drill into the plate and make room for the countersunk part of the screw. I drilled until the hole opening reached the edge of the plate :

5 I also used a 4 mm iron bit on the drill (going back and forth a few times) to slightly expand the diameter of the holes for the 6 mm screw (the ones at the back). This way, the screws were just a little bit tight and the thread cut slightly into the metal of the cylinders, which helped holding everything in place Assembling of the turn table with new screws. From there think are fairly easy: Clean any residual metal from the drilling; Put the upper plate with the new screws in place on top of the lower plate From the bottom, put the sping washers and nuts in place, tighten the nuts while holding the screws still with a screwdriver from the top.

6 Put the three small chrome cylinders back in place in their notches; Slide the upper part of the turn table followed by the spring along the cable and sit them in place; Reshape the blades of the washer holding the spring compressed before presenting it on top of the spring. Here is how I compressed the spring and snapped the washer in place: The 24 mm offset ring spanner was perfect to press the spring and the washer down together, leaving enough space for the blades of the washer to slide down the central axle before snapping into the grove. The rest of the re-assembly is just section 2 backwards (plus,if you have silicon grease handy, I strongly recommend putting some on the mechanism driving the orientation of the mirror.) 4. Conclusion I implemented this repair two months ago and so far, so good. It will take a few years to make a definite call of how good this repair is. May be I should have but some Loctite under the heads of the screws, nay be I should have used nilstop nuts. Well, in any case, it s better than a dangling mirror and I (or someone else on the list) can still improve this repair.