South Indian Ocean Islands
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1 South Indian Ocean Islands Heard, Kerguelen, Crozet, St Paul & Amsterdam Islands 31 st October to 2 nd December 2012 (33 days) Visiting the King Penguin colony at Crozet Island This tour provides an unprecedented chance to see some of the world s most rarely-observed sea birds and island endemics. Only a handful of scientists and explorers and, in days gone by, sealers and shipwrecked mariners have ever visited these remote archipelagos. The last expedition to this group of islands was in 2002 and was the only expedition cruise to have ever visited all of them. In 2012, by popular demand, this voyage is going to be repeated only the second time in the history of these islands!
2 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary THE TOUR AT A GLANCE DETAILS Tour Dates Tour Price Tour Size 31 st October to 2 nd December 2012 (33 days) Starting from US$20,950 * 13,390 * 15,425 * ZAR165,000 per person sharing (see below) (Tour price fixed in US$, other rates subject to exchange rate fluctuations) Depending on ship capacity with expedition leaders THE ITINERARY 31 st October Depart Port Louis, Mauritius 1 st to 7 th November At Sea 8 th & 9 th November Heard Island 10 th November At Sea 11 th to 13 th November Kerguelen Islands 14 th to 17 th November At Sea 18 th November Crozet Islands 19 th to 22 nd November At Sea 23 rd November St Paul 24 th November Amsterdam Island 25 th November to 1 st December At Sea 2 nd December Port of Albany, Australia Some facts about the South Indian Ocean Islands: 1. Iles Crozet actually consists of five islands that boast more breeding seabirds than any other island group in the world. These include King, Macaroni and Rockhopper Penguins, Wandering, Yellownosed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, Northern and Southern Giant Petrel, Kerguelen and Whitechinned Petrel, South Georgian Diving Petrel, Crozet Shag, Kerguelen Tern, Kerguelen Pintail and the endemic Crozet form of Black-faced (Lesser) Sheathbill. 2. The Kerguelen archipelago was discovered by Captain Yves Joseph de Kerguelen-Tremarec in Explored by Captain Cook, who named them after their discoverer, the largest island of the archipelago is also known as Desolation Island. Sealing, whaling and scientific expeditions visited in the 19th century and a scientific station was established in These islands are home to over 30 bird species and, botanically, Kerguelen Island is one of the richest of all Subantarctic islands with 280 species, including 36 seed-bearing species.
3 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary France annexed St Paul in 1843 and it became the centre of a fishing industry that was eventually abandoned in Sadly, introduced mammals have had a considerable negative impact on the island s vegetation and birdlife, but nature is now slowly re-asserting itself. Several bird species currently breed here including Northern Rockhopper Penguin, Yellow-nosed and Sooty Albatross, Flesh-footed and Little Shearwater, Broad-billed Prion, White-bellied Storm Petrel and Antarctic Tern. 4. Amsterdam Island was first discovered in 1522 and explorers, sealers and scientists visited during the 18 th and 19th centuries until France claimed it in A meteorological base established there is still manned by the Global Atmosphere Watch. Also living on the island is a herd of wild cattle, descendants of five animals left by a 19 th century visitor. While the cattle have damaged the island s vegetation, it is nonetheless still home to the rare Amsterdam (Wandering) Albatross, while other surviving species include Northern Rockhopper Penguin and Yellow-nosed Albatross. 5. There is some debate about the early sightings of land in the Heard Island region, but the first confirmed sighting is attributed to Captain John Heard on board the Oriental in November Australia operated a research station there between 1947 and 1954 but it is now uninhabited and is visited very infrequently. It is a wild, mountainous and strange environment: recent satellite images show glaciers alongside active lava flows. Antarctic Fur Seal, Southern Elephant Seal and King Penguins, all previously heavily exploited here, are now recovering. Gentoo, Macaroni and Eastern Rockhopper Penguins also breed on the island. THE TOUR IN DETAIL Day 1, 31 st October: Depart Port Louis, Mauritius. We board our expedition vessel Spirit of Enderby in Port Louis, the capital of Mauritius and a charming, historic town. Lined with palm trees, this labyrinth of French colonial architecture is heady with the exotic scents of the Indian Ocean. After completing custom formalities, our ship and home for the next 32 nights will depart in the late afternoon. Thereafter you will be introduced to the ship, crew and expedition staff. Days 2 to 8, 1 st to 7 th November: At Sea. For the next several days you are invited to join the officers and crew on the bridge as we sail south towards the first of our five South Indian Ocean islands. During this time you can indulge in birding and wildlife spotting from the bridge, experience first-hand the work that goes into running such an expedition vessel, learn about the Southern Ocean, the Subantarctic islands and their flora and fauna in lectures from our experts, or simply relax in the ship s bar and library. Days 9 & 10, 8 th & 9 th November: Heard Island. The human history of these islands is short and predictably brutal, but these natural wildlife havens have been around for many centuries. Australia operated a research station in the 1940s but it is now uninhabited and visited very infrequently. It also remains one of the few places on earth believed to contain no species directly introduced by humans. The number of tourist landings here can be counted on one hand: the last expedition of any significance was in This is a
4 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary mountainous and wild environment where recent satellite images show glaciers alongside active lava flows a very unusual phenomenon indeed! Antarctic Fur Seal, Southern Elephant Seal and King Penguins, all previously heavily exploited, are now found lolling (or scurrying) on the volcanic beaches; Gentoo, Macaroni and Eastern Rockhopper Penguins also breed here and we should spot prions, petrels and several species of albatross. With favourable conditions we hope to land at Atlas Cove, the abandoned site of the ANARE base (Australian National Antarctic Research Expeditions), and at Spit Beach, the home of Black-faced (Lesser) Sheathbill and the endemic Heard Island Shag (Cormorant). Day 11, 10 th November: At Sea. Setting sail for the north, we again have the chance to spot birds from the deck, catch up on notes and photos and attend further lectures unlocking the mysteries of our next destination, the Kerguelen Islands. Days 12 to 14, 11 th to 13 th November: Kerguelen Islands. Looking for the mythical Terra Australis, a French navigator called Captain Yves Joseph de Kerguelen-Tremarec came instead upon this lonely archipelago, a jigsaw puzzle of islands, rocks and natural harbours. Captain Cook named the largest island after the Frenchman but, to this day, it is sometimes known by his other name, Desolation Island, a supposedly barren place. How wrong Cook happened to be! The tumbling volcanic landscapes hide glaciers and fumaroles, penguins of all shapes and sizes, petrels, Cape Pigeon and the magnificent Wandering Albatross; in all, over 30 species of birds! Botanically, Kerguelen Island is also one of the richest in the Subantarctic with 280 known species, including boasting its own endemic cabbage, the Pringlea antiscorbutica, which perhaps gave nourishment to Captain Cook and his sailors so far from home. Exploring among the many rocky islets we will find abandoned whaling stations, Elephant Seals and maybe the endemic Kerguelen Pintail. Days 15 to 18, 14 th to 17 th November: At Sea. We will set our compass for the west and, en route to the magnificent Crozet Islands, have plenty of opportunities for pelagic birding and more lectures and documentaries on the flora and fauna of the region. Once again, this will allow you to catch up on your reading, catalogue your photos or simply watch the Southern Indian Ocean go by. Day 19, 18 th November: Crozet Islands. Iles Crozet actually consists of five volcanic islands that boast more breeding seabirds than any other island group in the world. Thirty six species breed here, with 24 on Ile de la Possession alone, and it is there that we will land for the day, spending our time walking the soft grasses and looking for breeding Yellow-nosed and Light-mantled Sooty Albatross, amongst other species. Penguins are also abundant on these islands, bickering and chattering along the beaches, and we hope to spot the Crozet Shag, Kerguelen Tern, Blue Petrel and/or Fairy Prion along the cliffs. This archipelago has witnessed many shipwrecks in the days when whaling ships were common in these waters and, if we re lucky, we might spot Orcas hunting for the Antarctic Fur Seals that breed here.
5 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary Days 20 to 23, 19 th to 22 nd November: At Sea. We finally turn our bow to the east and run with the prevailing weather toward St Paul. There will be time to relax and read, attend lectures and spend time on the bridge watching for whales, dolphins, seals and birds. Day 24, 23 rd November: St Paul. This island was formed by a massive volcanic eruption and our landing here is inside its flooded caldera. Now uninhabited, there is an abandoned fishing village to explore where we will learn of the considerable negative impact that introduced mammals had on the island s vegetation and birdlife. Cats and rats are thought responsible for the severe depletion of bird populations, especially those of small burrowing petrels. Happily, many bird species still breed here, including Northern Rockhopper Penguin, Sooty Albatross, Fleshfooted Shearwater, Little Shearwater, Broad-billed Prion, Whitebellied Storm Petrel and Antarctic Tern. Day 25, 24 th November: Amsterdam Island. Sailing overnight under the stars, we will arrive at Amsterdam Island early in the morning, steaming first past the northern cliffs where there is a huge Yellow-nosed Albatross colony. The French maintain a permanent scientific base here that we will visit and enjoy their hospitality before exploring this almost uninhabited ecosystem. Also living on the island is a herd of wild cattle, descendants of animals left by 19th century settlers. While the cattle have damaged the island s vegetation, it is still home to the rare Amsterdam (Wandering) Albatross, while other surviving species include Soft-plumaged Petrel and Southern Skua. Days 26 to 32, 25 th November to 1 st December: At Sea. We will spend the last days of our expedition crossing to Albany in Western Australia. With favourable weather we might find ourselves out on deck enjoying the sun and will have ample time to relax and reflect on an amazing journey into a wilderness on the very edge of the earth. We will also recap the highlights with the crew and enjoy a farewell dinner as we sail the last leg of our journey. Day 33, 2 nd December: Port of Albany, Australia. Finding harbour once again in the deep water Port of Albany, today we will disembark and our adventure ends with fond farewells and memories that will no doubt be long-treasured by us all. After clearing Australian Customs, a coach will transfer you to the Albany Airport or to the nearby bustling town. Please note: The Heard Island Management Plan and our permit to visit the island stipulates that we must visit Heard Island before making any other landings. This is to reduce the risk of introducing any foreign matter (i.e. seeds or pathogens) as Heard Island is as close to pristine as it is possible to be. To fulfil this requirement we must sail direct from Mauritius to Heard Island and then back to Kerguelen Island, then the Crozet Islands, before heading east to St Paul and Amsterdam Islands and from there to Albany. This requirement adds a significant amount of mileage and sea time to the expedition, but there are no other options. Our vessel, the Spirit of Enderby (Professor Khromov) is perfect for expedition travel. The real focus and emphasis of every expedition is getting you ashore as often as possible for as long as possible with
6 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary maximum safety and comfort. It carries just 50 passengers in very comfortable accommodation, measures 72 metres in length and is fully ice-strengthened. FINANCIAL ARRANGEMENTS: The price for the 33-day South Indian Ocean voyage aboard the Spirit of Enderby is as follows: Main Deck: US$20, * 13,390 * 15,425 * ZAR165,000 per person sharing; Superior: US$21, * 14,025 * 16,165 * ZAR173,180 per person sharing; Superior plus: US$22, * 14,345 * 16,525 * ZAR177,00 per person sharing; Mini Suite: US$23, * 15,275 * 17,600 * ZAR188,480 per person sharing; Heritage suite: US$26, * 16,840 * 19,410 * ZAR207,000 per person sharing; Please note that there is an additional US$1000 landing fee per person. This includes: Pre/Post cruise transfers and all shore excursions as outlined in the itinerary. All meals, coffee and tea throughout the voyage aboard the ship; All lodgings, all miscellaneous service taxes and port charges throughout the programme; Lectures by noted naturalists; and All guiding services (including expedition staff and tour leaders). The tour fee does not include: Any airfares, visa fees and travel insurance; Arrival and departure taxes; Any optional meals ashore; Any drinks; Tips for ship staff and other gratuities; Telephone calls, laundry and other items of a personal nature. IMPORTANT NOTES: a) Due to constantly fluctuating exchange rates, we now quote our tours in 4 currencies. The tour price is however fixed only in the currency printed in bold (US$), and the actual cost in the other currencies listed will be adjusted according to prevailing exchange rates at the time of final invoicing (usually 3 months before the tour.) Approximate flight (where applicable) and single supplement rates have been converted to US$ but are also subject to exchange rate movements. b) Furthermore, these costs are subject to unforeseen increases in tour related costs and may have to be adjusted as a result. Please contact the Rockjumper office for further information. It is also essential to contact the Rockjumper office for specifics on the booking conditions for this tour. Please note: The above schedule is approximate and depends upon sea conditions and other factors. While there will be no Rockjumper leader aboard the ship, there will however be a professional expedition leader aboard (not necessarily an expert birder) and he will have assistant leaders with him.
7 RBT South Indian Ocean Itinerary Arrival and Departure details: This tour does not include ANY airfares. The tour will depart from Port Louis, Mauritius, on day 1 in the late afternoon; further details in this regard will be ed to you in due course. The tour should conclude by mid-morning (sea conditions can affect this time) on day 33 in Port of Albany, Australia. If you wish to arrive early and/or depart late and would like assistance in this regard, kindly contact the Rockjumper office. Flights: Port Louis is the main port of entry for international flights in Mauritius and is well serviced by most of the world s major airlines. The cruise will end in Port of Albany, Australia. Here you can board a domestic flight on Skywest Airlines to Perth, which is well serviced by all the world s major airlines. We have the capacity to advise you on the best route according to your preferences, but your local travel agent will best be able to book these flights for you. However, please DO NOT book your international flights until you have consulted the Rockjumper office for confirmation on the status of the tour. Photo credits: Heard Island, Northern Rockhopper Penguin and St. Paul Island volcanic caldera all by Heritage Expeditions. Rockjumper Birding Tours CC Worldwide Birding Adventures Registration number 2001/059480/23 PO Box 13972, Cascades, 3202, South Africa Tel: Fax: info@rockjumperbirding.com Alternative rockjumperbirding@yahoo.com Website:
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