BIG DRESS PROJECT

Transcription

1 BIG DRESS PROJECT Horsham Museum is fortunate to have a large collection of big dresses ranging in age from the early 1800s to the end of the 19 th Century. Such garments are, by the nature of their size and fabric content, vulnerable in storage and it was decided that some reorganisation was necessary in order to preserve the dresses in the best way possible. To this end funding was sought and granted by Renaissance South East, the Museum Development Service for Surrey, East & West Sussex, to buy specialist storage boxes and a large quantity of acid free tissue paper for packing. These acid free boxes are extra long and allow the dresses to lie flat thus minimising folding. The work began in early 2008 by staff and volunteers following a training session by an expert on correct procedures for folding and packing vulnerable costume items. Before packing commenced the dresses were frozen, a quite safe procedure, to kill off any moth with which they might have been infested. Thanks to the hard work of our DIY volunteer new shelving was built to take the boxes as they were completed. The dresses listed below are those which benefited from the Big Dress Project but are by no means a definitive list of the dresses in the collection Quaker dress c ; full length in fine cotton printed with an alternating floral and plain stripe; fitted part lined bodice with hook and handmade loop back fastening; leg of mutton sleeves; cuffs with two pearl buttons apiece; one pearl button at neck Silk taffeta dress c ; Victoria sleeves; pleated cross-over bodice; lining cotton with webbing at the waist; hook and eye back fastening; signs of alteration to enlarge One piece dress c ; cotton printed with paisley cone pattern; bodice boned with heavy cotton lining; hook and eye fastening; skirt has brush braid around hem.

2 Regency empire line silk dress c ; bib-fronted dress; gathered at the back; cuffs have decorative detail; bodice cotton lined One piece silk dress c ; sleeves trimmed with narrow cream coloured lace; bodice front fastening with black buttons and buttonholes; deep, cream coloured lace collar over; full skirt with black fabric trim around hem Silk taffeta two-piece dress c ; front-fastening bodice with bell sleeves and full-length calico lined skirt; strip of matching material. (Picture of a woman wearing this dress in the collection see ) Cotton two piece dress c ; boned bodice with bell sleeves; front fastening; skirt has a concealed pocket in the side seam; small red/white patterned material between the stripes One piece brown and black check taffeta dress c ; cotton lined skirt with three velvet bows; cotton lined bodice with hook and eye front fastening; cream lace and black beaded lace at neck; velvet cuffs with cream lace trim.

3 Two piece dress c ; striped organza with pleated silk organza trim; two shallow pockets on the bodice trimmed with green bows; ruching on the elbow length sleeves and skirt; hook and eye front fastening; accompanied by spare material, sleeves and pocket One piece dress; bronze coloured silk taffeta with a faint stripe and rust coloured fringed trimming c ; lining cotton; fitted high necked bodice; front fastening with six buttons; full length sleeves trimmed with a pleated frill and satin bow; belt with bow; concealed pocket in skirt; hand stitched Two piece dress c ; lilac silk taffeta; cotton lining; high necked, fitted boned bodice; fastened with seven covered buttons; tight fitting sleeves; full skirt with gathered train; blue satin ribbon and fringed trimmings with rosettes; concealed pocket in seam; two separate net cuffs with lace edge and blue velvet ribbon trim; silk taffeta fringed sash Two piece watered silk dress c ; lined fitted bodice; straight sleeves; neckline trimmed with piping and lace; front fastening with 12 cream and gold coloured buttons; beaded braid trim; fulllength sleeves edged with lace and epaulettes with beaded braid trim; skirt with brush braid; concealed pocket; skirt has a series of five rings down one seam with running cord for creating a ruched effect.

4 Mauve organdie dress sprigged with flowers c ; shaped, fitted sleeves trimmed with taffeta bows at the cuff; front opening to waist with hook and eye fastening; seven decorative silk toggles; gored skirt, full at the back with a short train; three large taffeta bows decorate the back; taffeta sash Two piece dress with shawl c.1865; cream coloured shantung silk printed with a floral design of purple and blue pansies; boned bodice; fitted sleeves with small cuffs; front fastening with eight green fabric covered buttons; crinoline skirt with train; brush braid at hem; concealed pocket in waistband; hook and eye fastening; square shawl in cream silk with yellow stripes and tasselled fringe Black dress with a detachable bustle bow and optional bodice for evening wear c ; silk taffeta embroidered with sprigs of multi-coloured flowers and leaves; trimmed with pleated green ribbon and green fringing; boned, fitted bodice lined with cotton; hook and eye front fastening with five decorative green buttons; full length fitted sleeves; full skirt and bustle bow with hook and eye for attaching to waistband; alternative bodice of same material with signs of similar trimming.

5 Princess line dress in the polonaise style c ; silk brocade; cotton lined bodice with hook and eye front fastening; high neck trimmed with cream lace and turquoise ribbon; sleeves trimmed with cream lace and turquoise ribbon; strip of same material at hip level; dips at the front and gathers into three sections at the back; hem dips at the back; back of skirt decorated with two turquoise bows Satin one piece evening dress c ; full length princess line with train; scoop neck with drawstring; black lace trim; short sleeves with black lace trim; back fastening with hooks and eyes; overlay of lace and voile missing Two piece silk brocade evening dress c ; fitted, boned bodice; pink silk lining; puff sleeves; front fastening with hook and eye covered with a ruched fly front; skirt with plain gored front; full train with centre back hook and eye fastening; pink silk lining except for hem which is shot Grosgrain silk wedding dress c ; fitted, fully lined boned bodice; high neck trimmed with organdie; diagonal pleated trim across left-hand side of front with braided trim in centre; centre back fastening with thirty-six covered buttons; sleeves trimmed with organdie and fastening with seven buttons; flat fronted skirt draped at waist with train; graduated splits at sides show off pleated underskirt; hem trimmed with pleated lace; matching fan

6 Two piece sprigged taffeta dress; boned bodice with cotton lining; black lace V shaped detailing to front and back; trimmed with black and lime green satin ribbons, and satin ribbon decorated with sequins and glass chips; large elbow length puff sleeves trimmed with black lace; flat fronted skirt with gathering and small train at the back; pleated black brush lining around hem; accompanied by a length of spare taffeta and muslin material Silk organza wedding dress and accessories ; boned bodice with organza overlay and cotton underneath; hook and eye front fastening to lower section with the upper section open; wide cream silk lapels with gathered satin edging; upper sleeve puffed silk and lower arm satin. Skirt organza with cotton underneath banded mid-length with satin and at hemline; satin neckline filler; accompanied by a cream and green posy of artificial flowers and a single satin shoe (the other missing) Mantua style dress, possibly a court dress c ; considerably altered, probably in Victorian times; pink brocade woven with designs of flowers and leaves in many colours; boned, fitted bodice lined with linen; originally laced at the front; elbow length sleeves trimmed with deep lace, green braid bows; very full skirt.

7 Ivory coloured silk evening dress c ; lined; short sleeves with ruching and net edging; scoop neckline with lace frill and net bertha collar (probably added at a later date); full skirt (probably altered) Oyster coloured silk satin evening dress c ; lined, fan shaped bodice with self frill and pin tuck detail; elbow length sleeves with ruched edging; full lined skirt Two piece evening dress c ; silver and cream satin brocade; cotton lining; boned bodice pointed back and front with off the shoulder neckline; short puffed sleeves; trimmed with ostrich feathers and net; back opening with eyelets for lacing. Full skirt with flat front and full, pleated back; lining satin; inside pocket in back opening; hem trimmed with ostrich feathers, net frill and moiré ribbon bows.

8 Two piece black dress c ; silk grosgrain; fitted, boned bodice with pointed centre front and fishtail back; front fastening with 21 jet buttons and buttonholes; neck and cuffs trimmed with beading and lace; three sets of frogging decorate the front; fitted sleeves with pleated shoulder decoration; lined striped material with breast padding; skirt with flat front pleated into a train at the back; trimmed with lace across the front only; concealed pocket in right hand side seam; lace brush braid Two piece dress, probably half mourning c ; purple silk bodice with black velvet and white lace trimming; front fastening with four black velvet buttons; full length shaped sleeve; full-length gored skirt with petersham waistband Two piece wedding dress c ; dove grey silk grosgrain; boned bodice with hook and eye fastening; eight eyelets with braid cord to lace across the front; leg of mutton sleeves with lacing; full, gored skirt with train; three frills decorate the front, plain back; brown/bronze cotton lining; hook and eye fastening Two piece dress c ; mauve shot taffeta with thin black line; cotton lined full length skirt with pocket; double frill at hemline, scalloped and pinked; trimmed at hem with ten silk covered false buttons; cotton lined bodice with straight sleeves; hook and loop front fastening; high neck with double frill giving a yoked effect; bustle bow with wide scalloped tails and waistband in same material; fabric scraps.

9 Two piece afternoon dress with bustle bow and belt c ; green and black striped silk taffeta; fitted bodice with boning and internal bust padding; pagoda sleeves; black velvet trim with green fringed braid around scallops; four green buttons with buttonholes; hook and eye front fastening; lined full skirt with concealed pocket; double apron effect; black velvet trim with green fringed braid around scallops; black brush braid around hem; bustle apron in four attached parts; belt black velvet with green striped bow edged with green trimming Two piece day dress with an alternative bodice c ; cream silk taffeta with a pattern of brown flowers; bodice one is long sleeved with a high neck, boned and lined; shaped into a waistband; front fastening with green, covered buttons; green piping round armholes; cuffs trimmed with black lace; bodice two is similar to bodice one with a 'sweetheart' neckline and short sleeves; full length, flat fronted skirt; small pads on hips; deep ruching inside waistband; heavy cotton lining; 'Mrs H B 75' written inside lining Strong white cotton two piece dress c ; heavily embroidered; long sleeved bodice with peplum; ruched front with cross-stitch braiding; front fastening with seven black buttons and buttonholes; three hooks and eyes at waist; trimmed with broderie anglaise; full length skirt with train and bustle; single button fastening; concealed pocket; the set does not quite match.

10 Two piece dress, probably half mourning c ; textured silk with a small pattern of squares; fitted bodice with peplum; cotton lining; front fastening with hooks and eyes; trimmed with lace, velvet and tassels; diagonal trim across shoulders ends with a decorative covered button; shaped sleeves; full skirt with slight train; hook and eye fastening; concealed pocket; extra piece of matching material with fringe Muslin dress with leg-of-mutton sleeves c ; green and pink striped fabric sprigged with red flowers; deep V shape on bodice edged with ruffles and trimmed with green ribbon; ribbon trim above first flounce on skirt Three piece dress c ; close fitting boned bodice with bell sleeves; skirt gathered at back; overskirt with cord fringe trim; grey silk taffeta with gold satin inset bands.

11 Watered silk two piece dress with cape sleeves c ; boned cotton lined bodice; hook and loop fastening; skirt has a concealed pocket in the side seam One piece day dress c ; brown and black striped silk; fitted bodice with white cotton lining; front opening with hook and eye fastening and covered buttons over; three quarter length bell sleeves; scalloped edge with pinked detail; bow trim. Full skirt with slight train scalloped and pinked frill around hem, and brush braid; concealed pocket in right hand seam; hook and eye fastening; matching detachable bustle cover with large bow Two piece taffeta dress, possibly half mourning c ; fitted, boned bodice with cotton lining; velvet and taffeta trims with lace on the cuffs; poppers (probably added later), and hook and eye front fastening; five decorative buttons down the front; decorative silk bow on front and velvet bow on back. Full length panelled skirt with flat pleats at the front and fine pleating over the bustle; lining beige cotton sateen; poppers (probably added later), and hook and eye front fastening; concealed pocket in side seam.

12 Two piece silk dress c ; front fastening with hooks and paired buttons; leg-of-mutton sleeves decorated with beads and cord; heavy cording across the front; concealed pocket in side seam; white cotton lining Maroon watered silk wedding dress c ; velvet trim; princess line; three silk ribbons on front; front fastening with 14 tortoiseshell buttons, six with silver circle insets; cream lace frill at neck and sleeve edge; short train with watered silk bow Two piece silk grosgrain wedding dress with veil, flowers, shoes and gloves c ; cotton lined, boned bodice; high neck with ruching and lace trim; legof-mutton sleeves, heavily ruched, with long lace cuffs; pleating to front panels and ruching at shoulder; hook and eye fastening; plain fronted skirt; inner hemline lined with cream net and lace; train shaped from four panels; back hook and eye fastening; cotton lining; imitation orange blossom made of wax and wire; pair of white kid leather shoes; fastened with buttoned strap; lined and bound with leather soles; pair of kid leather gloves fastened with four pearl buttons and buttonholes at the front; stamped inside 'L'Isere/Depose'.

13 Cream satin princess line wedding dress c ; back fastening with lacing and 18 eyelets; boned; three-quarter length sleeves with ruching in three bands; ruched detail on front of skirt with box pleating over a narrow pleated frill; back shaped to cover a bustle; side pocket; oval shaped train with ruching and a continuation of the narrow pleated front border Two piece blue satin evening dress c ; fitted, boned bodice; fastened with 12 metal hooks and eyes; scoop neck with V front with a band of velvet ribbon band trimmed with diamante studs over sheer silk organza frill edged with cream silk; cream organza full sleeves; velvet band at cuff and self frill; three rows of velvet on lower bodice; four decorative tassels of organza and satin; full length skirt; flat front ; fastening at left side back; small pocket; deep frill of Coggeshall lace at hem with swags of organza above; organza bow; cotton lawn frills inside hem Two piece evening dress c ; saffron coloured satin with chiffon overlay to fitted, boned bodice; front fastening with laces beneath the overlay which is decorated with rows of mother-of-pearl and marcasite beads; short puff sleeves with chiffon over shoulders and at the edges; flat fronted skirt with cotton lining; concealed pocket right-hand side.

14 Cream silk grosgrain wedding dress c ; high neck with upstanding, lace trimmed collar; front fastening to below waistline with 14 silk covered buttons; long fitted sleeves edged with two rows of pleated silk and two rows of lace; ruched, draped fabric at hipline; lower front has three rows of lace and a deep pleated frill; train stiffened with organdie; silk lined bodice and sleeves; cotton lined skirt; accompanied by a pair of boots and pieces of the original headdress of artificial orange blossom, lily-of-thevalley Ivory coloured, silk grosgrain wedding dress decorated with pleating detail, large self bows and piping c ; double reveres at neckline trimmed with lace; front fastening down full length with 44 silk covered buttons and buttonholes; bodice has faux lacing at the back down to bustle level, finished with cord tassels; long train with ruched pocket trimmed with cord; stiffened, crenulated hem over pleated frill trimmed with organdie and lace; elbow length sleeves trimmed with self pleating and lace Silk sateen dress with embroidered floral pattern c ; wide necked, boned bodice with inner drawstrings; back fastening with lacing (missing); lace bertha collar; short sleeves with ruched detail and lace overlay; full skirt; lined throughout with glazed cotton.

15 Violet coloured silk dress finely stripped in violet and white c ; fan fronted, boned bodice; front fastening with eighteen hook and eye fastenings; pagoda sleeves with satin ribbon trim; full skirt; purple edging to hem; lined throughout with cotton Oyster coloured, ribbed silk dress trimmed with satin piping, bows and satin banding c ; stand up collar with two hook and eye fasteners; front fastening with seventeen self covered buttons; slit pocket to righthand side; ruched watch pocket on lefthand side with piped silk trim; skirt with train lined with stiffened gauze; sleeves had button decoration now missing Three piece silk taffeta dress c ; fitted, boned bodice trimmed with cream lace around neckline and two toned green satin ribbon; front fastening with two hooks and eyes and three satin covered buttons and buttonholes; short puff sleeves trimmed with satin ribbon and bows; full length skirt banded with satin ribbon; extra fullness at the back for a bustle with two flaps to cover; a large section of the back skirt is a replacement (much altered); overskirt with two green satin patch pockets.

16 Two piece bronze coloured silk taffeta wedding dress with matching hat c ; cotton lined fitted bodice; front fastening with nine silk covered buttons; long narrow sleeves with piped detail and a small frill lined with net; back has large double box pleats and a short train; pleated fabric frills around hem; piped detail at the front; hat with softly shaped crown with streamers; stiffened to frame face; decorated with ruched frills; pleated blue silk inner frill; net stiffened; self straps Wedding dress c ; princess line in grosgrain silk; satin reveres lined with a tulle frill and tulle beneath; front fastening with buttons and buttonholes; buttons have a star design in the centre; narrow sleeves trimmed with tulle frills and bows; skirt with train; satin front panel trimmed with a rosette and streamers and flat bows at hemline; hem of train trimmed with pleated satin frills, grosgrain silk and lace; cotton lining Champagne coloured silk wedding dress c ; front fastening with sixteen self covered buttons and buttonholes covered with a panel of ruched lace; apron fronted skirt trimmed with lace; train made up of seven panels with horizontal ruching at waist and a double row of ruching down sides and around hemline; elbow length sleeves trimmed with lace; floral decoration on one sleeve.

17 Indian 'Mooga' silk dress with floral design, woven in Assam c Quaker wedding dress donated by Horsham Quaker family c ; long sleeved silk empire line; bodice has front panel missing; silk skirt with cotton lining; accompanied by a matching pair of shoes ( ). Two piece dress c ; pale green silk damask; bodice boned at the front with fringed bell sleeves; skirt with drawstring waist; placket Two piece wedding dress c ; half mourning; royal blue silk; black buttons and black velvet trim; lined fitted bodice; hook and eye front fastening; lace trimmed cuffs.

18 Mauve and white muslin dress c ; matching fringed cape; bodice cotton lined; full skirt half lined with muslin; the lace trimmed cuffs have pearl buttons; hook and eye back fastening Two piece dress c ; white muslin with lilac coloured floral printed design; bodice with button front fastening; lilac coloured trim round neck, down front and on cuffs; cuffs and neck lace edged. Full length skirt, with train, made up of eight panels; back gathered into waistband; two pleats at the front; hook and eye back fastening; inside two buttons on tape three quarters of the way down Black silk and wool dress c ; fitted bodice and sleeves; front fastening with four buttons; piped V shaped neckline; flat apron front skirt tying at the back with fullness at the rear; skirt can be caught up with five cord loops attaching to buttons; hem of skirt and sleeves trimmed with crinkled crepe; part lace trim on hem where crepe has worn.

19 Three piece dress c ; purple and amber striped silk taffeta with black velvet and lace trim; fitted, lined and boned bodice; front fastening with eight jet buttons and buttonholes; waistband with hook and eye fastening; short, flat fronted overskirt with coarse muslin lining; full length gored underskirt with coarse muslin lined hem and brush braid Cream silk and satin wedding dress with a long train c ; belt in pleated self material and self covered buckle; boned, high necked bodice with organza and lace V shaped insert; raised and padded detail; fitted sleeves with lace edged cuffs; back fastening with hooks and eyes; cotton lined skirt; silk underskirt with drawstring waist; matching satin shoes with leather soles ) Chinese silk wedding dress rich cream colour with a Chinese pattern woven through; boned bodice, with round neck, finishing front and back in a small V shaped peplum; full length sleeves; bodice and sleeves trimmed with white lace, ruffled organza interspersed with small pearls; full length skirt with a small train; fully lined; hand sewn; also two tassels from the veil.