PEI 4-H RABBIT LEADERS RESOURCE GUIDE

Transcription

1 PEI 4-H RABBIT LEADERS RESOURCE GUIDE

2 This leaders resource manual is the joint effort of the Prince Edward Island 4-H Council and the Prince Edward Island Department of Agriculture. Some materials used in developing this Rabbit 4-H Leaders Resource Guide were provided with permission from: Nova Scotia Rabbit 4-H Leader Resource Guide produced by the 4-H & Rural organizations, Nova Scotia Department of Agriculture & Marketing, Truro, Nova Scotia Other materials used in the development were taken from the following web sites:

3 I N D E X Members Project Guidelines 5 & 6 Achievement Day and Exhibition Requirements 5 Animal Identification Form 7 & 8 Selecting a Rabbit 9 Pedigree 9 Choosing a Breed 11 Commercial or Fancy 14 Housing 22 Indoor Housing 22 Outside Housing 26 Litter Training 29 Sanitation 30 Feeding 31 Health 40 Showmanship 47 Breeding and Reproduction 59 Nesting Boxes 66 Genetics 68 Determining Sex 70 Judging 72 The Rabbit Industry 82 Rabbit Talk (Glossary) 87 Activities 90 This Leader s Resource Guide is designed to be a guide. However, as long as members complete the Achievement Day Requirements listed on page 5, you can cover whatever topics you deem appropriate and of interest to your project group. Some additional resources and web sites are listed on page 6 of this manual. 3

4 Congratulations on becoming a 4-H Rabbit Leader. This leader s guide is intended for use as a resource for you as you lead this project. You may pick certain items/sections for your members or you may decide to use other resources. As members may choose to take the Rabbit project over several years, you as leader may wish to choose easy sections for younger members, and then increase the difficulty as they continue in the project. For example, young members may learn about ear mange and sniffles, feed and housing and leave the breeding, reproduction and raising rabbits for meat sections for older members. The information that the members taking this project receive is on pages 2-5 of this leader s guide. It contains a brief outline of the project, what the Achievement Day and Exhibition Requirements are, some show day do s and don ts, and the Animal Identification forms which must be into the Provincial Office on or before May 15. Each member should have a copy of this handout. DID YOU KNOW... The origin of domesticated rabbits can be traced to Spain. It is thought that the ancient Phoenicians from what is now Lebanon and Israel brought rabbits to Spain when they landed there 3000 years ago. The Romans raised and consumed large amounts of rabbit meat because they thought that eating it would enhance their beauty. Religious monasteries raised rabbits for both their fur and meat. Catholic monks are credited with domesticating rabbits as well as developing many breeds. The Champagne d Argent breed, a colorful rabbit, was developed by monks. The monasteries traded rabbits and increased the breeding stock in this manner. Rabbits were introduced to England by the Norman invaders from France. The meat was so popular that feudal lords kept warreners, men who tended a large number of rabbits or a warren. Rabbits were introduced to North America be early settlers. Lop-eared rabbits were popular in the late 1800 s. Rabbits are cousins to hares. PEI has a native snowshoe hare which changes color in winter. There are native cottontail rabbits in North America but these rabbits are wild and are not in the same species as the domestic rabbits we know today. The domestic or tame rabbits are descendants of the wild European rabbits and cannot be interbred with wild hares. 4

5 RABBIT WELCOME Welcome to the 4-H Rabbit Project! Please read through this guide carefully, as it contains information and suggestions that are important for your project. 4-H leaders can obtain a Leader Project Guide and other resources from the PEI 4-H Office. Hopefully you, as a member, will Learn to do by Doing through hands-on activities that will encourage learning and enjoyment. If you have any questions, contact your District 4-H Officer or your project leader. 4-H YEAR COMPLETION You complete a project by: completing the project Achievement Day requirements completing a communication project completing a community project completing an agriculture awareness project taking part in Achievement Day You must complete all of the listed aspects in order to show at Fairs and Exhibitions. ACHIEVEMENT DAY REQUIREMENTS Conformation 40 Showmanship 40 Judging Marks EXHIBITION REQUIREMENT Rabbit members can show either one or two rabbits. If choosing to care for two rabbits they must be from the following combinations: A) one Senior Buck and one Senior Doe B) one Junior Buck and one Junior Doe C) one Senior Buck or Doe and one Junior Buck or Doe Rabbits cannot be from the same age category and the same sex (i.e. two Junior Does) Age categories: Junior Rabbit - born in current calendar year Senior Rabbit - born before current calendar year Members must show all of their project animals at their Achievement Day in order to show in 4-H Classes at the Island Fairs and Exhibitions. If an animal is not shown at Achievement Day it cannot show in 4 -H Classes at the Fairs and Exhibitions. You cannot interchange your rabbits throughout the show season. Ages for 4-H members as of January 1st of the 4-H year: Junior: 9-11 years Intermediate: years Senior: years 5 Check out the PEI 4-H Web Site

6 All rabbit members must submit an Animal Identification Form to the PEI 4-H Office on or before May 15th to be eligible to show at the 4-H Fairs and Exhibitions. HELPFUL RESOURCES! Some books and videos are also available at the PEI 4-H Office which can be borrowed for a two week loan period. To book these, call or drop by the PEI 4-H Office at 40 Enman Crescent, Charlottetown. CLASSES AT ACHIEVEMENT DAY AND EXHIBITIONS At your Achievement Day, there are two classes in which you must show your rabbit. 1. Conformation Class or Placing the Rabbit - In this class, you will be judged entirely on the quality of your rabbit. Factors considered include whether the rabbit has desirable conformation characteristics. 2. Showmanship Class - In this class, you and your rabbit will be judged on appearance and also on how well you show your rabbit. See the score card. The quality of the rabbit does not play a role in this class. At Exhibitions members usually enter both of these classes. SCORE CARD FOR RABBIT SHOWMANSHIP Appearance and Condition of Rabbit 25 Cleanliness, Fleshing, Condition of Fur, and Training Appearance and Attitude of Club Member 25 Clean, Courteous, Attentive Showing the Rabbit 40 Ability to pick up, carry, pose and handle the rabbit Knowledge about Rabbit 10 Ability to answer questions regarding your rabbit and the parts of a rabbit 100 Marks SHOW DAY DO S AND DON TS DO take water, clover or hay with your rabbit to the exhibition DO wear a white lab coat over your clothes or a long sleeved white shirt DO have your number harness on before entering the ring. DO BE PROMPT! Know the time of your class and be there before the judge. DO KEEP ALERT! Watch the judge at all times. DO take your own piece of carpet. DO be prepared to answer questions the judge may ask. DO walk behind other entrants when moving position. DON T wear a hat in the ring. DON T chew gum while you are showing your rabbit. DON T bring the cage into the ring. Leave the rabbit in the cage and remove it only before you are called into the ring. DON T over handle or pet your rabbit at the show table. Give your attention to the judge. This is where the practice pays off. DON T talk unless spoken to be the judge. DON T let your rabbit interfere with the other rabbits. Allow a space of two feet, if possible, between rabbits. Don t be distracted from showing by side noises, 6 the audience, or the exhibitors beside you.

7 RABBIT Animal Identification Forms must be received at the PEI 4-H Office by May 15 or the last work day before the 15th if it falls on a weekend or holiday. We suggest if faxing your forms, you call the office ( ) to make sure the fax was received. Send this ID Form to Provincial 4-H Office 40 Enman Crescent, PO Box 2000 Royalty Centre, Charlottetown C1A 7N8 MEMBER: Name Age as of January 1st Club RABBIT #1: Name Breed Birth date Sex of Rabbit (Doe or Buck) Type of Rabbit Fancy/Meat Pet (Note: A Fancy or Meat rabbit is a purebred and a Pet rabbit is a crossbred). RABBIT #2: Name Breed Birth date Sex of Rabbit (Doe or Buck) Type of Rabbit Fancy/Meat Pet (Note: A Fancy or Meat rabbit is a purebred and a Pet rabbit is a crossbred). 7

8 RABBIT #2: Name Breed Birth date Sex of Rabbit (Doe or Buck) Type of Rabbit Fancy/Meat Pet (Note: A Fancy or Meat rabbit is a purebred and a Pet rabbit is a crossbred). Sketch in all markings and colors of your rabbit. 8

9 SELECTING A RABBIT Before heading out to purchase a rabbit, members must ask themselves some questions such as: What size rabbit do they want? Is the rabbit going to be a house pet or an outside/outbuilding pet? Are they looking for one with a fluffy coat or a smooth coat? Do they want a lop with long ears? What color do they want? Are they looking for a purebred or a mixed breed? New members could obtain advice from you, their leader, or a local rabbit breeder in selecting their project animal. It takes experience to select a good typed rabbit. For every recognized breed of purebred rabbit, there is a written standard which describes in detail exactly what the breed should look like. It describes the breed s physical features and exactly how they are to look and fit together. If your members are interested in purchasing purebred rabbits, they might want to do some research first on the Standards of Perfection for the particular breed in which they are interested. In this project, members may have a purebred rabbit or a rabbit of mixed breeding (crossbred). The classes for exhibitions are broken down as follows: For purebred rabbits a) Fancy or Meat Junior Doe b) Fancy or Meat Junior Buck c) Fancy or Meat Senior Doe d) Fancy or Meat Senior Buck For mixed breed rabbits e) Pet Junior Doe f) Pet Junior Buck g) Pet Senior Doe h) Pet Senior Buck 9

10 When choosing a Fancy Rabbit, members should look for: the right type and conformation for the breed a rabbit whose eyes are bright and sharp a rabbit who is alert and active a rabbit which has no disqualifications for the breed a rabbit this is healthy When choosing a Commercial (or Meat) Rabbit, look for: the right type and conformation for the breed a rabbit whose eyes are bright and sharp a rabbit who is alert and active a rabbit in the medium size breeds that has good meat qualities (meaty shoulders, wise and deep loin and hind quarters) a rabbit that is right size for its age class a rabbit this is healthy When choosing a Pet Rabbit, look for: a rabbit that is healthy a rabbit that is clean a rabbit whose eyes are bright and sharp a rabbit where everything fits together, with a smooth transition from one part of the body to the other 10

11 PEDIGREE Purebred versus Grade Rabbit Members should check carefully before purchasing breeding stock. They should be sure to buy from a reliable rabbit raiser, one who knows his/her rabbits and also has records to show numbers in litters, and other important information. Does that produce small litters are boarders and seldom pay for their upkeep. A breeder who seldom keeps records often is a lazy person in other management practices. Whenever possible, members should ask to see herd health and breeding records and the housing facilities. The rabbitry should be clean, well managed, and free of any health problems. They should select rabbits that will produce large, but not huge, litters (8 10 kits), raise a high percentage of their offspring to slaughter age, and produce good quality fryers. Members should research the breed they are looking to purchase. The animal they choose must be healthy, have the ability to reproduce, and have desirable conformation. It may or may not be purebred. Often beginners think that if they have a pedigreed rabbit that they really have something. However, a pedigree is a record giving the date of birth and three generations of ancestors. Check the breeder and take a look at the stock. Are they healthy? Does the breeder have records of the number born and raised in each litter? Are they eligible to register? The fact that the rabbit is registered is no guarantee that it will produce well. The registration papers indicate that first of all the rabbit is free of major disqualifications and faults, and that it is a good type animal of that particular breed. Individual rabbits should be selected first, then registration papers examined. In the rabbit business, starting and building with good stock is essential. Begin small and plan to do everything well. Disqualify all animals with conformation faults: i.e. bell ears, extra toes, crooked tail, buck teeth, chipped teeth, bony hips, weak back or color disqualifications. Suggestion: Leaders take members to a reliable breeder to learn what to look for and look out for when choosing the best rabbit for show. 11

12 Complete as much of this certificate as you can Sample Pedigree Certificate Name and Ear No. of Rabbit Breed Variety Date of Birth Sex Mature Weight Name of Breeder Address Date Sold To Address (Sire (Dam (Sire ( ( ( ( ( ( Dam (Sire ( ( ( ( ( ( Dam (Sire ( (Dam (Sire ( (Dam (Sire ( (Dam (Sire ( (Dam This pedigree is correct to the best of my knowledge. Signature Date 12

13 Questions to Ask When selecting a rabbit, members should ask the owner the following questions: 1. Does the bunny/rabbit have a desirable conformation? 2. Is it healthy and full of vigor? 3. Did it have a good mother, one that has and raises large litters? 4. Are the rabbits eligible to register? 5. What kind of feed does the owner use? how much? 6. If you are considering the bunny/rabbit as an animal to be used in producing market animals, ask whether the animal has the ability to produce with high dressing percentage and good rate of gain. 7. Will a replacement be given if the rabbit dies within two months? 8. Has the owner ever shown his/her rabbits? 9. What is the price of the rabbit? 10. Does the breeder keep production records? Will he show them? The big nine rules to follow when purchasing a rabbit: 1. Buy from reliable breeders who have records on litters and weights of stock. 2. Select from families producing big litters. 3. Select from families that are heavy milk producers. 4. Select from families that grow fast. 5. Select from does that wean four litters per year. 6. Select from families showing resistance to disease. 7. Select from families with good type. 8. Select from families that live long. 9. Select stock free from undesirable characteristics (woolies, etc.) It is recommended that members purchase their rabbits in the spring. May is a good time to take on a new animal. You do not have to bother with indoor housing if you purchase a 6 8 week old bunny and put it in a clean, secure hutch outside. By August, you should have a well developed mature rabbit that will show well. Remember rabbits must be chosen and rabbit identification forms in to the Provincial 4-H Office by MAY

14 CHOOSING A BREED Raising rabbits is fun. People raise rabbits for several reasons - for enjoyment, show, meat, or fur. Only a small minority of those who raise rabbits are capable of making a living from it. Consider it an enjoyable hobby that can help pay for itself. There are more than 40 different breeds of rabbits. Breeds are characterized by size, shape, ears, fur texture, sheen and color. In some breeds, the individual fur characteristics are combined. SIZE Dwarf Breeds The smallest breeds, the Dwarfs, vary in size from 1¾ - 3½ lbs. They include: Brittannia Petit (white, black, black otter, or chestnut agouti) 11/2 to 2 1/2 lbs. Dwarf Hotot - (white with black around its eyes) 2 3 lbs. Jersey Wooley (many colors Angora wool ) 2 3 1/2 lbs. Netherland Dwarf (many colors) 1 3/4 2 1/2 lbs. Polish - (black, blue, chocolate, blue eyed white, ruby eyed white, and broken)2 3 1/2 lbs. These rabbits as a group are less than 3 1/2 lbs. when mature. These are the rabbits members should raise if they want small pets that don t consume much feed (about 1/3 to 1/2 cup per day) and take up the least amount of cage space (about 2 1/2 sq. ft.). Problems you may encounter with dwarf breeds include: The average litter size is 2-4 bunnies, as opposed to the larger breeds which have 6-12 bunnies. The genes responsible for making a dwarf rabbit in certain combinations is lethal. This combination occurs in 25% of the rabbits. The one having this gene usually dies within 4 days of birth. Dwarf rabbits are more susceptible to coccidiosis, an intestinal parasite that many times proves lethal to young rabbits between three and ten weeks of age. Many dwarf rabbits have attitude problems. Many of them resort to scratching or biting when an owner puts his/her hand in the cage Dwarf rabbits are very popular among young people, because of their compact size and small littler sizes. 14

15 Small Breeds This group of rabbits vary from 2 1/2 to 5 pounds. The consume between 1/3 and 2/3 cup of feed per day and take up 3 1/2 sq. ft of cage space. The small breeds have characteristics between the dwarfs and the medium size breeds. They usually have 1-3 more babies in their littler than the dwarfs and do not carry the possibly lethal dwarf gene. However, they are still more susceptible to death from coccidiosis than the larger breeds. American Fuzzy Lop - (many colors Angora fur Lop ears) 3-4 lbs. Dutch - (the feet, front half of torso and face are white, the other parts ca be black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel or brown-gray) 3½ - 5 ½ lbs. Himalayan - (white with colored ears, nose, feet and tail of black, blue, lilac or chocolate) 2½ - 4½ lbs. Holland Lop - (Lop ears many colors) 2½ - 4 lbs. Mini Rex (rex coat many colors) 3-4½ lbs. Medium Size Breeds This group of rabbits is characterized by weights ranging from 4½ lbs - 7 lbs. for mature animals. They consume between 1/2 and 1 cup of feed per day and take up 5 sq. ft. of cage space. They produce an acceptable amount of meat on small bones. Some commercial meat producers raise these breeds but they usually prefer the meat rabbits because the feed-to-meat conversion ratio is better. The medium sized breeders like to show them and raise them for their fur, rather than for meat. American Sable - (also good for meat) 7-10 lbs. English Angora - (many colors) 5-7 ½ lbs. French Angora - (many colors - good also for meat) 7½ -10½ lbs. Satin Angora - (many colors ) 6½ -9 lbs. English Spot - (white with spots of black, blue, chocolate, gold, gray, lilac, or tortoise) 5-8 lbs. Florida White lbs. Harlequin - (has alternate bands of color) 6½ - 9½ lbs. Havana (black, blue or chocolate) 4½ - 6½lbs. Lilac - 5½ - 8 lbs. Mini Lop - (lop ears many colors) 4½ - 6½ lbs. Silver - (black, brown or fawn with white ticking) 4-7 lbs. Silver Martens - (black, blue, chocolate, or sable with white on belly, flanks, jaw lines, and eye circles) 6-9½ lbs. Tan - (black, blue, chocolate or lilac with tan on belly, flanks, jaw lines and eye circles) 4-6 lbs 15

16 Meat Rabbits This group is characterized by weights between 8 and 12 pounds. They are raised for both meat and fur. Some of these may also be considered fancy rabbits because they have unusual fur, color, or ear characteristics. Rabbits in this group consume about 1 1/4 cups of feed per day and take up 7 1/2 sq. ft. of cage space. American - (blue or white) 9-12 lbs. Californian - (white with black ears, nose, feet and tail) 8-10½ lbs. Champagne D Argent - (starts as black, mature is silver) 9-12 lbs. American Chinchilla lbs. Cinnamon - 8½ -11 lbs English Lop - (many colors - giant lop ears) 9-14 lbs. French Lop - (many colors - regular lop ears) lbs. New Zealand - (black, red or white) lbs. Palomino lbs. Satin - (shiny coat, many colors) 8½ -11 lbs. Silver Fox - (fur resembles fox) 9-12 lbs. Giants This group can weigh up to 25 pounds. They require 1 3/4-2 cups of feed per day and sq. ft. of cage space. They also require stronger cages. Because few people raise these rabbits, they are more rare than the other breeds. They are mainly used for meat and fur. The fed-to-meat conversion ratio is less than the meat group. Checkered Giant - (white with spots of black or blue) 11+ lbs. Giant Chinchilla lbs. Flemish Giant - (black, blue, fawn, light gray, sandy, steel gray, or white) 13+ lbs. 16

17 FUR TYPES There are four distinct and different fur structures in rabbits. Angora - The fur grows very long and is shaved or plucked and woven into yarn to be used in making Angora sweaters, hats and mittens. The long haired rabbits can become a real problem for the casual rabbit breeder. Their fur has a tendency to matt and shed. It s a real chore trying to clean the cages that have long hair everywhere. The hair also floats out and settles on anything in your rabbitry. Satin - The fur has a special shine to it. It is used to make fine fur coats and hats. Rex - The fur has a velvety touch and is short. It is used also to make fine fur coats and hats. Multi-color fur - The fur is made up of two or three colors. Rarely will you find a fur coat made with these because of the problem of matching the patterns and colors. They are sometimes found in small furred items. Certain color patterns are sought by judges when showing these types of rabbits. 17

18 BODY TYPES Full Arched Type Long limbs, long body arch to back that starts at nape and continues over entire back. They are very unique in appearance and very high energy. Checkered Giant and English Spot are examples. Semi-Arched Type Mandolin type; arch starts behind shoulders rather than nape. Large breeds that have very low lying shoulders and very high arched hind quarters. English Lop and Flemish Giant are examples. Short Coupled Compact Type Where all the smallest breeds of rabbit fall. Small breeds range from 1 1/2 lbs. to 5 or 6 lbs. Compact means they have very small, rounded bodies, e.g. Netherland Dwarf, Dutch and Polish. Commercial Type This body type is pretty much restricted to large breeds of rabbit. Larger and chubbier than most breeds, they are often referred to as meat breeds, as they are often raised for their meat. However, they also make excellent pets. They range from 6 1/2 lbs. to 12 lbs. and are among some of the gentlest breeds of rabbit. E.G. New Zealand, Champagne d Argent, and Silver Marten. Snaky or Cylindrical Type Long slim, round body, lays flat and snakelike; long slim head, long legs, fine boned, i.e. Himalayan. 18

19 COMMERCIAL OR FANCY Breeds of rabbits may be divided into two categories: 1. Commercial breeds 2. Fancy breeds Commercial breeds are those rabbits that have been produced to give a meat animal. These include the New Zealand, Californian, Satin, and Palomino. Fancy breeds are kept more as a hobby and can be shown in an exhibition s open rabbit class. These include Dutch, Silver Martin, English Spots, Rex, Netherland Dwarf, Lop and English Angora. Following are pictures and a brief introduction to the breeds mentioned above. COMMERCIAL (or Meat)... New Zealand Red, White and Black These are strictly American creations and the name has no bearing on their origin. The crossing originally of the Belgium Hare and the Golden Fawn produced the New Zealand Red, and later the New Zealand White. There is now also a New Zealand Black, The body should be of medium length, not long like the Flemish or short and cobby as in the Dutch; wellrounded hips; with well-filled loins and shoulders in proportion; avoid loose, flabby skin around the shoulders and excessive dewlap in does. Ideal weights: Senior bucks - 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) Senior does - 11 lbs. (5 kg) Californian Another American creation, the Californian has broad shoulders, meaty back and hops, and a good dressing percentage. The Himalayan and Standard Chinchilla were crossed, producing a half-breed buck weighing 2.7 kg with excellent meat type and fur qualities. This buck was then crossed with several New Zealand White does and by 1928 the Californian was produced. This is a white rabbit, with dark colored ears, nose, feet and tail. Ideal weights Senior bucks - 9 lbs. (4.1 kg) Senior does - 9 ½ (4.3 kg) 19

20 Satins The Satin breed is a mutation which came from a Havana breeder in the US in There is a striking difference in the texture of the fur as compared to the normal-coated rabbit, properly identified by the name SATIN. It has translucent hair shafts that reflect light and give the coat a unique shine. Colors are white, red, blue, black, Californian, Havana, copper and chinchilla. It is an ideal combination of exhibition and commercial rabbit as it combines the meat quality of the New Zealand White with the unusual fur structure. Ideal weights Senior bucks lbs. (4.3 kg) Senior does - 10 lbs. (4.5 kg) Palomino is one of the few rabbits developed in the United States in the state of Washington. It is a good meat rabbit and has an attractive appearance. The golden variety is the most popular - golden shade with cream white under color. Ideal weights Senior bucks - 9 lbs Senior does - 10 lbs FANCY Dutch Originated in Holland, is also one of the oldest known breeds. It is one of the most popular fancy rabbits because of its color and markings which are a pure genetic factor and may be bred for. Standard colors are black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel grey and grey. The breeder must study and breed for correct cheeks, blaze, neck, ears, eyes, saddle undercut, and feet stops. The correct body type is cobby and compact. Ideal weights Senior bucks lbs (2 kg) Senior does lbs (2 kg) Silver Martin The Silver Martin is a very popular breed with its unique colors and sheen. Standard colors are black, blue and chocolate. The body should be of moderate length. The back should rise from the shoulders to a high point over the hips with the shoulders slightly narrower than the hip. Ideal weights, Senior bucks - 7½ lbs (3.5 kg) Senior does - 8½ lbs (3.8 kg) English Spots Another very old breed, bred in England since 1880, with exact origin unknown. One of the main features is the unusual markings, known as chain markings, running from a point of the neck along the sides to the haunches. There is plenty of glamour in this breed as it comes in black, blue, tortoise, grey, chocolate, and lilac. A clean head and ears are a crowning feature of this bred, together with correct and distinct markings. Ideal weights Senior bucks - 6 lbs (2.8 kg) Senior does - 7 lbs (3.2 kg) Rex This comparatively new breed appeared in France in It appeared as a mutation from parent stock resembling the Belgium Hare and has a short, plush-like fur approximately 5/8" long. Recognized colors are white, black, blue, castor, opal, Havana, Californian, chinchilla, copper, lilac, sable, seal, and lynx. Fur should be extremely dense, straight and upright, and as nearly as possible, the same length and texture over the entire body. Ideal weights Senior bucks - 8 lbs (3.5 kg) Senior does - 9 lbs (4.1 kg) 20

21 Lop The original Lops are said to have first appeared in the mid 1880's in Africa. From there they were shipped to Europe and England. The English fanciers greatly increased the ear length by breeding and selection. They are strictly a fancy rabbit with the longest ears in the hobby. The record is 70 cm from tip to tip. The ears are to be as long as possible making sure width is 1/4 of length from tip to tip. Any color is permitted. Ideal weight Senior bucks 9 lbs (4.1 kg) and up Senior does - 10 lbs (4.5 kg) and up Angora The English Angora originated in Turkey. It is one of the oldest known breeds of domestic rabbits. The body must be round and snowball-like in appearance with a full chest and shoulders that balance with the hips. The wool should be even and full over the back, sides, rump and chest. The head and ears should be well furnished. It is important to have uniformity and evenness over the entire body. The wool should not be less than 5 cms for showing purposes. Ideal weights, Senior bucks - 6 lbs (2.8 kg) Senior does lbs (3 kg) Netherland Dwarfs are the smallest of all breeds of rabbits, having been developed in Holland by crossing the Polish with a small rabbit from the Netherlands. Coming to England in 1948 and Canada in the early 70 s, it has become one of the top four most popular Fancy rabbits for showing. These rabbits also make great pets. They come in a great variety of colors, have a short, compact, well-rounded cobby bodies with wide shoulders, well-developed loin and hindquarters. Ideal weight Senior bucks - 2 lbs (1.1 kg) Senior does 2 lbs (1.1 kg) Others There are many other breeds of rabbits; however, they are not found in very large numbers in the Maritimes. These include Flemish Giant and Champagne D Argent. The rabbits may also be a cross between two or more breeds and therefore will not have the conformation or particular markings of any breed. If members have one of these rabbits, they will show in the Pet classes at exhibitions. 21

22 HOUSING One question members must answer before deciding on what type of housing they require for their rabbit is whether the rabbit will be housed inside the house or outside. Elaborate and expensive housing and equipment are not necessary whether inside or outside housing is to be used. Housing and feeding equipment should be easy to clean and maintain. In planning housing, members should think about the rabbit s comfort and health. Rabbits can be housed in anything from an outside hutch, a small shed, a section of a garage, workshop or barn, to a specially constructed large scale rabbitry building. INDOOR HOUSING Housing a rabbit inside has many advantages. The rabbit will become part of the family just like the cat and dog. Rabbits need companionship and he will receive it if he lives near his owner. His wonderful personality and unique bunny behaviors will delight. Furthermore, the owner will get so familiar with him that any changes in his behavior will be observed when they first appear. These changes may indicate serious or even life threatening conditions and may warrant your immediate attention (i.e. activity level, eating or bathroom habits). Rabbits need a space to call home even if they are allowed to roam freely in the house. This gives them a sense of security and a feeling of being safely confined if something is bothering him, i.e. children or other pets. A good choice is a wire cage which is 4-5 times the size of the full grown rabbit when he is stretched out and the height should allow enough room for him to sit up comfortably. Having wire or mesh on the bottom of the cage allows for easy cleaning; however, wire can be hard on the rabbit s feet. One solution is to put a sitting board inside the cage. This board may be untreated wood, cardboard, a grass mat or a rug. If the rabbit is trained to a litter box, a closed in floor covered with linoleum could be an option. The linoleum can be easily cleaned. If the rabbit s cage has a solid floor, it can be covered with a grass/sisal mat, which is good for bedding. Also an old towel or fleece blanket can be used for bedding as long as the rabbit is not into unraveling them. Hay is also a good bedding material. Ideally, the cage should have both a side and top opening. If there is only one opening, it is best to have it on the side with a swinging door hinged from the side. Be sure the opening is large enough to accommodate a litter box and that it has smooth edges so the rabbit will not hurt itself getting in and out. 22

23 When trying to remove a rabbit from its cage, be very careful that his feet do not get caught in the wire. Remember to latch the cage door after you put him back in because not matter how hard it is for you to get him out, he can get out quite easily on his own if the door is left open. Another more elaborate option is a two or three story condo with ramps going from one level to another. Rabbits love going up and down the ramps and having more of a view. Ramps and upper floors need low-pile carpet or other texture for sufficient traction. Regardless of the type of cage, a rabbit must have an exercise area. If he has free roam of the house, the exercise pen is not as necessary. Collapsible wire exercise pens can be placed on hardwood or linoleum floors. Members can make these or purchase one from a local pet or feed store. This enclosure allows members to get in with the rabbit and allows the rabbit room to roam and exercise.. Inside this area, members can place a wooden or cardboard box for him to hide in and chew on, several litter boxes, food and water dishes and toys. If the rabbit is a jumper, pay special attention to the height of the pen. If a rabbit is to be confined to only a certain area of the house, such as the kitchen, baby gates can be used to block off the door ways. If the bunny is to have free roam of the house, before he is let out of his inside cage members should spend some important time on hands and knees assessing the environment from the rabbit s vantage point and then making necessary changes to protect the rabbit and the furnishings. Most rabbits love to chew, so protect all exposed electrical, computer and telephone cords. Rabbits are attracted to them and a few quick teeth nips can take out a phone or computer, at the very least, and at the worst, injure or kill your rabbit. Hide the cords if possible. Remember that rabbits can get into some very tight places so be careful. It is best to cover the cords with heavy, clear, plastic tubing which is cut down the side using an Exacto knife. This allows them to be placed inside the tubing. A determined rabbit with time on his paws can chew through the tubing but in most cases it will protect the cords. Other more sturdy options are hard plastic telephone wire covers, split loom tubing, PVC pipe, or computer cord covers. Check these covers frequently to make sure they are intact. Relocate any houseplants. Rabbits will eat any plants within reach. They won t know or care whether they are poisonous or not. Wooden furniture, wall moldings, and rugs can become victims of a digging or chewing bunny. Getting to know a rabbit s habits is crucial. If he is a chewer or a digger (and most are), try using bitter apple or lime or a cheap perfume on the items on which he is working. Plastic corner covers can be purchased to protect moldings, and place linoleum, carpet squares, phone books or sea grass mats where he is digging. 23

24 Rabbit cage with wire floor, standing block, under cage tray and litter box lined with hay. Rabbit condo with multi platforms, litter box and toys. Two bunnies sharing one house. REMEMBER: Rabbit cages and litter boxes must be kept clean. You can clean with a mild vinegar and water solution 24

25 Home made pen with cardboard boxes for bedroom and carpet for flooring. Another option, if there is room, is to house the rabbit in an exercise pen. This gives the bunny more space, while still keeping him safely contained. If using this method to house a rabbit, members should have some type of bedroom for the rabbit so he can get away by himself. This could be a cardboard box or a little wooden structure. The littler box and water and feed dishes would also be included in the pen. Another sample of a multi-level cage. 25

26 Outside Housing If a rabbit is to be housed outside, some special considerations must be made. Location of the rabbit s housing is of extreme importance. Members must be sure the rabbit has access to shade and protection from wind, rain and cold. A rabbit can die from heatstroke when the temperature in his living area is above 80. A wet, cold rabbit is susceptible to pneumonia. What appears safe during the winter may be just the opposite on hot summer days. Rabbit need a strong, secure hutch that will protect them from predators and the weather. Some hutches look like big wooden boxes, some like log cabins. Some have exercise pens attached to them and nest boxes built into them. Hutches must be raised on legs to give protection from damp, and to deter vermin. The roof should be covered with roofing felt, sloped to allow water to run off and have an overhand. Having a hutch of four solid wooden walls does not provide for good ventilation which is important. Also, rabbits tend to gnaw at wood, so a layer of wire over the exposed wood areas would be a good idea. Placing wooden batons around the edges stops rabbits chewing it as well. Many outdoor hutches have wire mesh for flooring to allow the droppings to fall through. If using this type of flooring, at least one third of the floor space must solid. This solid area can be covered with linoleum, carpet, hay, even a towel or fleece blanket. If a rabbit has to be on wire flooring all the time, his feet can become sore. Inside this hutch should be a bedroom box where the rabbit can hide from predators and be given additional protection from the weather. In cold weather, straw should be stuffed into this box allowing the rabbit to burrow into it to keep warm. A rabbit can die of heart attack if stressed and certainly having a marauding predator clinging to the hutch would be enough for this to happen. Being able to hide will help ease some of this stress. A litter box should be put in the corner or if your rabbit is not trained to a litter box, place layers of newspaper or straw in the area the rabbit uses as a bathroom. A single rabbit isolated in an outside hutch is a very lonely rabbit so members should consider getting him a companion rabbit. This will help keep the rabbit warm and offer him some companionship when his humans are not available to interact with him on cold, dark winter days. 26

27 Having the hutch inside or attached to a safe exercise area where he can be free to run and play during waking hours is ideal. Remember to totally enclose the exercise area, including the top, so predators such as raccoons, cats and dogs can t get to the rabbit. The top should be covered with heavy wire, thus preventing any predator from harming the rabbit, day or night. The floor of the run should be covered with wire to prevent him from digging out. Another option is to bury the wire on the perimeter 9 12 inches below the ground. The sides should be made of heavy welded wire with a minimum height of 48 inches, and ideally, reaching to the top. It is important to close the rabbit in the hutch at dusk to protect him. Do not use chicken wire as it provides little protection. Use strong weld mesh with sturdy door fasteners. If the hutch is not located inside the safe exercise area, for temporary daytime exercise a portable rabbit run can be built using a wooden frame and heavy welded wire The top can be hinged for easy access to the rabbit. It is easily cleaned and moved from place to place. The exercise pen should have a cardboard or wooden house for shelter, water and feed dishes and a littler box. Remember to make sure there is a covered top and that the rabbit cannot dig out under the bottom. Sample of an portable exercise run. Hutch with attached exercise pen 27

28 WINTERING OVER As the nights get longer and the weather colder, it is important to prepare for the winter. Make any repairs to your rabbit s home and make sure it is water tight. Check the inside of the hutch for water stains on the roof or sides. Apply protective coating every few years. Large mesh doors can be partially covered with clean Plexiglass, allowing your rabbit to see out and the sun to come in but preventing wind and rain. Ventilation is still important though, so leave several inches gap for this. Covering the whole hutch with an old blanket/carpet and then a tarpaulin will help keep the heat in and the weather out. During the day leave the front open for ventilation and at night cover the majority of the hutch leaving a smaller area for ventilation. Rabbits need a warm snug bed area. This should be the equivalent of a box with an entrance hole. Often hutches have a bed area divided from the main hutch. If a sleeping section isn t available or its very large, then provide a smaller box as well. A smaller area will warm up around your bunnies and keep them snug. This is only for sleeping, your rabbit will still need plenty of space for exercise. Provide extra bedding, lots of hay, straw and shredded newspapers for your rabbit to burrow into for warmth. Entrances should face away from the wind. If it s not possible to turn the rabbit hutch around then put something just in front to block direct wind and rain. It is preferable to move the rabbits indoors for the winter, into a draft free building. Do not put it in a garage that you also use for your car as the fumes pose a health hazard. Keep each grown rabbit in a separate cage and make sure there is good drainage for pills. Keep cages 3 to 4 feet away from outside walls to prevent chills and urine from splashing on walls. Hanging all wire cages at waist height is a more sanitary, easier to clean form of cage with good ventilation. These cages are only to be used in a building. Cages should be constructed so they. - Provide the correct amount of space for the type of rabbits that are being housed. - Are easy to clean and maintain. - Provide a safe place for rabbits to live, breed and raise young. - Are both economical and of good quality. - Are sturdy and durable. 28

29 LITTER TRAINING By nature, rabbits choose one or a few places (usually corners) to deposit their urine and most of their pills. Urine-training involves little more than putting a litter box where the rabbit chooses to go. Pill training requires only that you give them a place they know will not be invaded by others. Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies. A rabbit s attention span and knack for learning increases as they grow up. The litter box can be lined with newspaper and then covered with hay which will absorb the urine. Certain types of kitty litter or wood shavings can also be used; however, do not use pine or cedar wood shavings as they can give off fumes that are toxic to rabbits. Citrus based litters work well but are hard to get and expensive. Compressed sawdust pellets make inexpensive and absorbent litters. All rabbits will drop pills around their cages to mark it as their own. This is not failure to be litter trained. It is very important for a rabbit to identify the cage as his property so that when he leaves the cage for the bigger world of the family house, he can distinguish the family s area from his own and avoid marking it. The trick to getting the rabbit to keep his pills in the cage is to give him ownership. Don t reach into the cage to take him out; open the door and let him come out if and when he wants to. Don t catch him and put him back in the cage or it will be his prison, not his home. Herd him back gently and let him choose to go in to get away from you. If the rabbit has been snuggling with his human, it s okay to carry him to the door of the cage and let him go in just don t put him directly into the cage, and never chase and trap him and put him in the cage. Don t reach into the cage to get food dishes anchor them near the door of the cage so they can be filled with a minimum of trespassing, or wait until the rabbit is out to fill them. As well, don t clean the cage while the rabbit is in it wait until he comes out. He ll come over and supervise, even help you move things around that you ve set down outside the cage, but as long as he isn t in the cage, he won t see the cleaning as an invasion of his territory. Start with a box in the cage and one or more boxes in the rabbit s exercise space. If the rabbit urinates in a corner of the cage not containing the box, move the box to that corner until he gets it right. Don t be concerned if the bunny curls up in the litter box, this is natural. Once it is using the box in the cage, open the door and allow it into the running space. Watch him go in and out on his own. Gently herd him back to the cage and litter box, or into one of the boxes in the room. Be careful not to make the cage or litter box feel like punishment. After first using the box, praise him and give him a treat. As he gets better trained in his first room, you can increase his space. If his area becomes very big or includes a second floor, include more litter boxes so as not to confuse him. 29

30 SANITATION Rabbits are very susceptible to health problems caused by ammonia vapours and excess humidity from a build-up of manure and urine. Many types of bacteria grow in manure and can cause disease. Actual prolonged contact with manure and urine will cause skin diseases. Rabbits breathing in ammonia vapour are very susceptible to respiratory problems. Humans can smell ammonia when it reaches 50 parts per million. A rabbit can smell it when it is 5 parts per million. So just imagine how bad it is for the rabbit if you can smell it! Another severe problem for rabbits is humidity. This can come from urine build up, roofs that leak and keep the floor in the hutch wet, outside cages placed on the north side of a structure where it is damp. Members can tell when the humidity is high by the smell of the ammonia, windows having condensation on them, or a green fungus starting to appear on the wooden parts of the hutch. If any of this happens, it is time for action; however, members should never let it get to this point. So the collection and disposal of rabbit waste is very important. There are several methods of controlling a rabbit s waste. If the cage is inside, let if all on the floor or into a tray or catch pail. Outside cages have the advantage of letting the waste fall to the ground and leaving it there till spring or fall. Inside cages have the disadvantage of having to have the rabbit s waste cleanup up at least twice a week. Do not base where rabbits are housed on how often the waste is to be cleaned because a rabbit outside is exposed to extreme weather changes, dogs, cats, strangers, flies, mosquitoes, and black flies. A rabbit inside is exposed to humidity, ammonia, mice, rats, shadows and poor ventilation. Each situation has its own advantages and disadvantage, and it is up to each individual where to place them. Members should keep in mind that no matter which you do, ammonia levels around the rabbit must be kept as low as possible. This only happens with proper disposal of waste. Cages, l i t t e r box e s, under c a ge t r a y s s h o ul d be k e p t c l e an and d i s i n f e c t ed to p r e v e n t d i s e a s e in a r a b b i t. Pr o p e r and p r o mp t d i s p o s al of r a b b i t wa s t e is a l s o v e r y i mp o r t a n t. Be d d i n g ma t e r i a l s s h o u l d be r epl a c e d r e g u l a r l y. 30

31 FEEDING RABBITS The feed rabbits eat influences their health, growth, ability to reproduce well, and the quality of meat and fur. It is important that they are fed a ration which supplies all of the known essential nutrients. The term nutrition is applied to any chemical compound (natural or man-made) or a group of compounds of the same general chemical compositions that aids in the support of animal life. The primary food nutrients required by all animals are classified as Carbohydrates, Fats and Proteins. Secondary food nutrient classes consist of Minerals and Vitamins. Other nutrients of much importance are Water and Air, but these are obtained primarily from sources other than feed. Carbohydrates These are complex substances that contain only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen the latter two always in the same proportion as water. Their use is to produce heat, energy and fat in the body of the animal. Good sources of carbohydrates are oats, barley, wheat, corn and molasses. Roughage also contain this nutrient. Common carbohydrates are starch and sugar. Fats These are also complex substances that contain only carbon, hydrogen and water, but the proportions of carbon and hydrogen are much greater in fats than in carbohydrates. Fats furnish 2.25 times as much heat or energy per kilogram as carbohydrates and are used in the body for these purposes. Any amount of excess of requirements is stored as fat in the tissues. Fat is found in small quantities in common grains such as oats, barley and wheat, while flax seed and soybean seed are high in fat. Roughage are very low in fat content. Proteins are also very complex compounds, containing carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen and always containing the element nitrogen. Most proteins also contain sulphur and some contain phosphorus. Proteins are necessary for growth, development of glands, muscles, hide and hair. They are especially needed by the young growing animal for production of body tissues. The younger animal is growing at a greater rate than the older animal, thus the protein percentage in his ration must be greater. Protein is supplied in the legume hays (alfalfa, clover), linseed meal, milk, wheat bran, oats, and pasture grasses. The legume hays and all animal by-products are rich in protein. 31

32 Minerals The four minerals of greatest importance are sodium, chlorine (combined in common salt), calcium and phosphorus. Other minerals utilized and likely to be lacking in certain localities are iron, iodine, cobalt, sulphur and copper. The uses of minerals are many. They aid the proper functioning of the body processes: the manufacturing of blood, digestion, muscle action and bone building. Minerals are stored in the skeleton and tissues. Common salt is the chief source of sodium and chlorine and is usually fed in the familiar salt block. Iodized salt blocks contain iodine and are usually colored red. Blue colored blocks usually contain cobalt and iodine, while yellow colored blocks contain sulphur only. Calcium and phosphorus are obtained from the legume hays and green forage and considerable phosphorus is obtained from cereal grains. Bone meal is a well known source of these minerals. Limestone is a source of calcium and monocalcium phosphate is a chemical containing both calcium and phosphorus. Vitamins are known as accessory food substances. They are identified by letters and the vitamins A, B, and D are the common ones required by the rabbit. Vitamins find their use in the body as regulators of growth processes, assisting in digestion and helping disease prevention. Vitamin A promotes health and growth. It is found in green grass, carrots, milk, wellcured legume hay, yellow corn and cod liver oil. Vitamin D is known as the Sunshine Vitamin. Lack of it in the diet causes the one disease know as Rickets. It is very important in the rations of the growing animals and more particularly during the winter months. Milk, grasses and well-cured hays are good sources of the D vitamins. Water all vital processes of the body demand water. It is used in the digestive processes and in the removal of wastes from the body. 32