Fitting Commercial Patterns: Pants & Skirts My Label Overlay. Debbi Lashbrook

Transcription

1 Fitting Commercial Patterns: Pants & Skirts My Label Overlay Debbi Lashbrook

2 New to My Label???

3 OVERLAY: Steps Involved Press all pattern pieces What happened to the dart? What type of ease does the pattern have? Decide what My Label pattern to use to check the fit. Pin pattern pieces together if needed. Overlay and align the patterns. Analyze differences. Alter the commercial pattern.

4 Ease Allowances Hip ease for style: Close fitting 0-2 Fitted 2 1/8-3 Semi-fitted 3 1/8-4 Loose fit 4 1/8-6 Very loose fit Over 6

5 Checking Ease: Printed on Patterns Actual Hip Measurement

6 My Label Patterns: Skirts Use basic skirt pattern for straight or slightly flared skirts Can convert dart of straight skirt to flare to check with A-line skirt designs Use gored pattern for skirts with panels or with fullness

7 Critical Areas of Fit: Skirt Waist circumference High hip circumference Hip circumference Pitch of waist

8 Skirts: Fitted Skirts Inset pockets Some views have gathers rather than darts

9 Pattern Diagram Always look at pattern guide

10 Align CF + Waist at CF Check waist, high hip, and hip

11 Align CB and Waist Check waist, high hip, and hip

12 Waist Fit: Compare Dart Take-Up

13 Skirts: Fitted Skirt A-line skirt Elastic waist Seam details

14 Pattern Diagram

15 Converting Straight Skirt to Flared Draw slash line from bottom of dart Match dart legs; flare opens from bottom of dart

16 Balance Side Seams Place front & back pattern pieces rst Redraw side seam Divide difference between front + back Add to front; subtract from back

17 Align CF and Waistline at CF

18 Front + Back Front + back are the same in commercial pattern

19 Gored Skirt High-waisted skirt Flared hem/gored

20 Pattern Guide CF/CB panel is same Side panels cut 4 Faced waist

21 My Label Gored Skirt Align waist mark of pattern with waist of ML; align CF fold line of pattern with stitching line at CF of ML pattern Check for 5/8 seam allowance overlap

22 Waist Shaping

23 Comparison of Back Pieces Commercial pattern uses same pieces as for front

24 Straight Gore Skirt Two options to compare: Print ML straight gore Use ML straight skirt

25 For Straight ML Gore Make hem opening = hip

26 Compare Fronts Overlap of seam allowance down front panel

27 Compare Back Place pieces together CB on fold of commercial pattern; seam line of ML pattern Measure waistline

28 Skirt with Yoke Use ML Pleated Skirt

29 Compare Front Align CF and waistline seam Must slash yoke from end of dart to side so pattern will be flat Check for fit along side seam

30 Compare Back Align CB and waistline seam Slash to side seam at end of dart for flat pattern

31 Which ML Pattern? Compare to full front pattern

32 Which ML Pattern?

33 Pants Draw crotch line on pattern Decide which ML pattern to use for comparison Align CF seam + drawn crotch line Alter the commercial pattern as needed

34 Preparing Patterns Draw crotch line on pattern Perpendicular to grain At intersection of CF/CB & inseam stitching lines

35 Draw Crotch Line Mark intersection of inner leg seam and crotch seamline Draw line from this point perpendicular to grain line

36 Alignment Align at drawn crotch line & CF/CB seam

37 Pant Waistband Styles Pleated pant: One or two pleats in front; darts or elasticized in back; Straight waistband Pull-on pant: Elasticized waist; varies in amount of ease added; may have attached straight waistband or turn down band Flat front pant: Darts in front + back, faced waist or straight waist band Contoured waist pant: Curved waistband, darts in back, not often in front, lower rise High-waisted pant: Waistline extends above natural waistline; uses fish-eye dart; faced

38 Pant Fit Styles Trouser Slack Culotte Jeans Relaxed jeans Leggings

39 Leg Definitions: Style Properties Straight Leg: Fit to the hip and fall straight down from the hip Tapered Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then taper to the hem Boot Cut Leg: Fit snug to the knee; then flare out below the knee Flares/Bell Bottoms: Exaggerated flare from the knee to hem

40 Leg Width Tapered: 14.5 Straight leg: 19.5 Boot Cut: 16.5 Wide Leg: 22.5

41 Rise of Pant: Distance between the crotch and the waist High rise: Above the narrowest part of waist Regular rise: About 12 ; positions the band at your natural waist Just below waist: Sit just below natural waist or just below belly button (10-11 ) Low rise: 8, but may measure as little as 3-4

42 Body Type Pants Levi s Curve ID: Slight Curve Demi Curve Bold Curve There are patterns made like this as well.

43 Side seam shape Slim, average, and curvy fit Hip measurements have 1/2 difference between each type Contoured waistband

44 Body Curve Patterns Front Back

45 Body Curve Patterns Average Compared to Curvy Slim Compared to Average

46 Body Curve Patterns Extra in crotch extensions

47 Fitting Challenges Hip Curves shape of side seam Waist to Hip important measurement

48 Adjusting Style Properties

49 Pant Fit Crotch depth Crotch length Pitch of pant Length of pant Waist/hip circumference Side seam shape (waist/high hip/hip ratio) Hang of pant leg Shape of crotch seam

50 Pitch Relationship between front waist position and back waist position

51 Measurements for Pants Height Waist Height Crotch Height Hip Height High Hip Height Knee Height Pitch Total Crotch Length + front and back Waist to Hip True Rise Waist Hip at Crotch Hip High hip

52 Which pattern to use???? For elastic-banded pants, use pull-on pants For fitted pants, use flared pant For pleated pants, use pleated trouser For jeans, use jean pattern

53 Pant: Elastic Straight leg Inner leg seam only Flat waistband in front Elastic in sides and back

54 Pattern Diagram

55 Valencia Pant Align at crotch depth line

56 Overlay

57 Pant: Fitted Straight legged pant Contoured waist + facing Front + back darts Side zipper

58 Pattern diagram

59 Using My Label as Overlay Use the flared pant to check the fit of fitted pants patterns Pin the waistband to the top of the pant patterns in front and back

60 Alignment of Patterns CF seam Crotch line

61 Front pant: Fit Check Points Crotch depth Pitch of pant Crotch length Circumference

62 Size of Dart/Curve of Seam

63 Back Pant

64 Side Seam Check Pin dart in Mimosa Align seamlines of ML band with pant Compare to ML pattern

65 Pleated Pant Fly front zipper Side slash pocket Buttoned waistband sets above the waist

66 Pattern Diagram Pieces C, G, H

67 Front

68 Front

69 Back

70 Back Dart

71 Flat Front Slightly below waistline Rise measures 10 5/8 for size 14

72 Front

73 Back

74 Low Rise Pants Upper edge of waistband 1 ½ below waist

75 Pattern Guide Sheet Straight band; not contoured

76 Front + Back

77 High-waisted pant Straight-legged Raised waist Front tucks Elastic back w/ zipper

78 Pattern Diagram

79 Front

80 Front Waistline

81 Back

82 Back Waistline

83 Knit Pants Pull on pants Knits only

84 Alignment

85 Leggings Two-way stretch No ML equivalent Pull on pant

86 Leggings

87 Leggings + Pull On Pant

88 Jeans Read description: Fit Waistband Leg width

89 Front Jean

90 Back Jean

91 Pant Alterations Crotch Depth Slash across pattern Spread/tuck an even amount

92 Pant Alterations Crotch Length Change according to measurements; front and back crotch length Slash from CB/CF to side seam Forms wedge to add more length to crotch

93 Pant Alterations Crotch extensions Adds to crotch length Also to thighs

94 Crotch Extension

95 Pant Alterations Pitch of Pant Upward pulls toward upper hip side seam

96 Shape of Crotch Seam American vs. European Fit in crotch curve

97 Bagginess below seat Dart from inner leg to outer

98