Design development. How do you approach this page? Developing design ideas.

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1 Design development How do you approach this page? Developing design ideas.

2 Mark scheme A coherent design strategy, with clear evidence of a planned approach adopted throughout.

3 Development Planning Development Techniques Justification Making fabric? Colouring fabric? Adding decoration (print techniques) Adding decoration (sewing techniques) CAD Manufacturing - fastenings Manufacturing - finishing Manufacturing - shaping Manufacturing -seams Felting, knitting, weaving, lace making etc I have decided to develop felting techniques as I have seen this type of fabric used in other craft products. It could give a more interesting texture to my product etc

4 What needs develo ping? Why? What do I need to find out? The work I need to do is... Now I have created a range of unique and stand out designs based on Japanese street style and the mood board I created, I have decided to create an above knee-length dress, suitable for my target audience age range, with sharp and angular edges and shapes to produce an innovative and original product. For my colour scheme I am going to use bright bold colours (such as orange, purple, yellow, blue) that contrast with dark colours such as black and grey, like I have specified in my design specification. I am going to use a range of fabrics in my product, I am planning to use a dark, plain, recycled fabric from a remnants factory (this will fit the brief and my design specification as it will be recycling fabrics), also I plan to have a section of the dress where I will use a range of different fabrics and techniques to create a bold and creative designs with the theme of Japanese Streets. I have decided to design a unique shaped dress, such as my designs so far, as I think the will appeal and stand out to my target audience. Also it my design specification I have said my product will need to be suitable for a range of purposes, which I think these designs are successful in as the byer could dress them up for a more formal yet quirky style, or wear them more casual for a real stand out street style, and statement look. I believe that these designs will prove challenging as they include a range of techniques and skills that I will in to incorporate, to create the highest standard final product. In this development section I will need to research and investigate into many different decorative techniques, fabrics, deigns and shapes to develop my final design so my product will stand out in high street stores. Although I like my designs, I feel that the shapes may be difficult to achieve so throughout my development process I will investigate into different ways of creating a unique shape, also I will need to investigate a lot in decorative technique for the cut out section of my Japanese Street influenced design. Materi als Shape Size Fasten ings Decora tive techniq ues + design s. I will need to find out which materials will be most suitable for my product. I will need to investigate for the most appropriate fabrics, that are workable, the right colour, have the right properties for the purposes of my product; strong comfortable, unique and stand out plus they will need to include a recycled or economical factor to them. I m going to investigate into different shapes for my final design. I will need to keep in mind, the practicality of the dress, the uniqueness, the cost, and the best shape that will appeal to my target audience. I will need to find out the sizes that I will need to produce my dress in. I will need to consider what sizes would be brought in high-street stores, and also the cost and fabric needed to make these sizes. I will have to include a fastening in my dress, to make it practical and easy to wear for the buyers, the type of fastening may depend on the type of fabric and the final shape to my dress. So I will need to decide on my fabric, shape and also depends on the construction techniques I will choose to use. I have a section in my dress which I am going to fill with many decorative techniques to create bold and colourful design. I will need to test out which decorative techniques would be best to use to achieve a unique and high quality design. I will get samples of fabric that I may use, and evaluate their properties and qualities in a fabric chart, which I will not only research into the properties but also the cost, look and economic values to the fabric. I will then I will get opinions from people to get an evaluation of the fabrics. To do this I will come up with a bunch of shape adaptations of my designs. I will then compare them to my design specification to make sure they fit my criteria. Also I will get a public opinion and ask them to change the shape in some way to how they would like it. To find the information I need I will research into the sizes popular high street shops such as Topshop and Urban Outfitters sell. I m going to test out different methods of fastenings and make a chart to weigh out the qualities and faults of each method. To do this I will create different samples of decorative techniques such as tie dye and heat transfer using plastic bags. I will the evaluate the samples my self and also get a public opinions. Colour s i have already decided on the basic colour themes to my designs. However I will now need to narrow these down into the specific colours I will use. I also need to decided on the colour for the base of the dress, so the colours contrast like I have out in my specification which will result in a final product that will have a statement look to it. Constr uction techniq ues I need to find the best methods that are most appropriate for my product, and that will achieve the highest quality. I plan to make mock ups where necessary to ensure a high quality finished product. I will also make samples such as different seams to evaluate different methods. Health and Safety i need to ensure the product will be safe for the buyers. It must be comfortable, well finished and I will need to consider the safety of the fabrics and components I will use. Also, I need to think about the safety in manufacturing the product, I will use non-toxic dyes in my product. I will investigate into the fabric choice, and the flammability etc. of these choices. The machinery during the manufacturing I will need to make sure it is safe to use. Enviro nment As the environmental and recycled part to the brief is a large feature in my design specification I will need to think greatly how I can use and incorporate this element to my product. I am going to think about how I can use recycled fabrics in my product, this may be using scrap parts from a remnants factory. I will need to evaluate and ensure these fabrics are suitable for my dress,

5 Mark scheme Excellent development work through experimentation with a WIDE variety of techniques and modelling (including CAD) in order to produce a final design solution.

6 Here I developed a few of my previous design ideas that came out the most successful against my design specification. I came up with a few ways to develop the original design, using different shape for the skirt and that top/bodice that would catch young women s eyes on the high street. After adapting these designs I asked a few class mates (as the fit into my target market) what they thought of the designs and which one is their favourite. Poppy (aged 16): I like design 1 as it has a unique shape that I haven t seen before yet it is still wearable and looks the most practical. Jess (aged 15): I like the colours and the shape of the skirt in design 2 but don t think I could ever wear it as it is a bit to daring for a high street product, so I think my favourite is design 1 I am currently in the process of designing, and making a dress for year old females, based on the theme Japanese street style. I want my dress to stand out from the average dress you would find on the highstreet so it will appeal to my target audience. I want my design to be an innovative shape with a bold eye catching section on decorative techniques, including tie dye and applique. I think my idea will have a huge selling ability as it is a stand-out, fashion forward piece that is adapted from a standard dress shape. Once getting feed back I decided to try out design 1 as it came out most popular. I made a basic template using newspaper, here I gained the desired shape I wanted to achieve with the main part of the dress but decided I wanted to develop the contrasting top section to the bodice. Here are the different shapes I tried using paper to get a template of my final design. I like all the designs as they are all different and add a contrasting factor to the main section of the dress, however my favourite is the first one I tried as the necklace contrast well with the bodice and creates a layered affect to the dress that makes it more unique to anything of the high street at the moment

7 I wanted to investigate the use of tie dye for my designs. I like how tie dye could bring colour and stand out patterns to my designs. It creates a unique pattern that is seen through out Japanese street style. I tested a number of ways in which to tie dye, out of all the samples these two are my favourite, and were the most successful. I like that pattern on the blue as it was the most clear and cold pattern out of the samples. How ever think the colour of the second sample came out more successful, also pink is featured in my design specification. This is a sample of free machine embroidery that I created to make the shape of a Japanese symbol. I like this technique as it would add texture to my product. It also makes the symbol stand out and therefore makes the theme clearer. In my final product I intend to use this, but use black thread so it contrasts with the other bright colour with in this section. I also wanted to investigate into different types of dying, in order to create the best look and design. This is a sample of dip dying that I tested. I like this sample and effect as I like how the colour blend together and with the right colour I think it could create a successful decorative feature. How ever I do not like the colours I used as when blend they have become quite dull and not what I am looking for in my product. If used for my final design I will change the colours. This sample shows the method, stencilling. I did this using a cut out of the Japanese symbols I included in my designs, I then went round the symbols with special paint to create this effect. I like how this turned out as it looks like the graffiti I have included in my mood board and the in my designs specification. I feel that this was the most successful sample and will be using it in my final design. After creating the my own fabric using recycled materials, I wanted to explore more ways to include recycling and sustainability within my decorative techniques. This sample shows how I used plastic bags and heat transfer to create a design that is completely recycled. I like this as the use of the plastic bags has a different feel and texture into my product and is something that people would not usually expect on a garment brought from the high street. This is a sample of appliqué I did using black scrap material I found that otherwise would go un-used. I like this technique as it would add depth and texture into my piece, it also contrasts with colours I have used in previous decorative samples. I plan on using this in my final piece. I think that all of my decorative technique samples have proved successful. I plan on using as many techniques as I can in my dress to use a wide range of skills and also add depth and interesting patterns and textures in the dress, to make it as unique as possible. Along with these sample I may plan on using UV thread with the decorative section to add even more detail and techniques along with beading or hand/machine embroidery. As sustainability and the use of recycling is required from my design specification I chose to investigate into making my own fabric using scrap of unwanted fabrics. I did this by collecting scrap bits of material that other wise would be wasted, layering them onto,. And using the heat press to attach the two. I then used colourful threads and remnants to add to the effect. This created and bright bold, recycled section of material that would easily catch people eye if I was to include it in my final product. Also it includes a major part of my specification, recycling.

8 I decided to experiment using CAM in order to create designed section of my dress. I tested out different ways that I could use CAM to be suitable to use for my design. Firstly I just did a sample of writing using... I at first wanted to use an imported image that I would import onto the machine as the design, however I could not get hold of the right part in order to do so, this is what I originally wanted to use for the sample. However as I couldn t use the right machinery in order to do this, I needed to experiment with different fonts, size, and shapes on the hard drive to achieve the shape size and style I wanted. Here you can view the changes you made and the layout of the fabric and finished design. It also shows you where the centre is and the size of the design compared to the fabric so you can achieve the right size and positioning easier. Firstly I wrote out the text, leaving a gap for a heart as the hard drive on the machine did not stored a picture of a heart (I may consider using another technique such applique or felting for the heart), I then used functions on the machine which allowed me to edit the text to the shape/size and position I wanted. These buttons allow you to change the size of the design/text. After editing the style, shape, size and position of the text, this was the end result. I then decided to change the font and play around with the size and shape so create the most suitable design. This enables you to change the positioning of the text, so it fits the sample correctly, I moved the text to the edge of the layout in order to fit more samples underneath This allows you to rotate the text. This is the finished sample that I created. This shows the various fonts and sizes I tested using the machine. I plan to use the top font, but in capitals, for my panel as it is the most similar to the image I first intended on using. However I will need to make the font slightly smaller to fit the panel, without over crowding it. Originally I was going to insert the decorative section as a panel into the skirt of my dress. After considering the difficulty and time it would take to do this, along with use of more fabric during mass production (which would cost more money), I decided that I use transfer printing to incorporate the panel of decorative techniques. At first I tried scanning a few of the decorative sample, seen on the previous page, onto my computer to achieve the desired look of the panel, I also added computerised shapes to add to the detail. Although I liked the neatness and precise design I wanted to incorporate more hand completed decorative techniques to give the dress a more unique and one-off look. Also the use of a lot of the materials to make this panel may have meant that I would be unable to use recyled fabrics. First I sketched out the basic design I wanted on the decorative panel, and then recreated using the appropriate decorative techniques by hand using all recycled materials. This zig-zag detail will be hand stitch using UV sensitive threads after the panel has been transferred onto the dress. This Japanese writing (which means Street-Style will be done using free machine embroidery. This writing will be done using the computerised embroidery machine (as shown opposite) The building shapes (inspired by my mood board within my research) will be appliqued onto the background using thick black recycled denim After completing the panel, I will scanned it into the computer, editing the contrast and shape slightly to get a neater and bolder finish using the appropriate software. In my manufacturing specification I will include a downloaded file and specify to print off the panel onto transfer paper, then iron onto the finished garment. The background will be made from white cotton that I will hand tie-dye using purple fabric dye. The triangles and angular shapes will be made from Bonded material and plastic bags, bonded onto the background material.

9 1. Develop pattern for bodice and skirt, and cut out fabric to the correct shape of the template. 2. Sew boning channels along the middle layer of skirt 3. Sew three layers of skirt together along the bottom 4. Join skirts outer layer together at side 5. Join skirts inner layers together at sides 6. Sew darts into the bodice 7. Sew both layers of bodice together at the top 8. Attach the skirt to the bodice along outer layers 9. Sew in the zip, hand sew the inside to make sure no edges show 10. transfer print the pattern onto the skirt 11. Insert boning and sew up holes left for the boning. In order to hold the structure of the skirt I will need to use boning to support the weight of the fabric, this enable me to create the effect I want to achieve with the shape of the skirt. To hold the boning in place I need to create boning channels around the skirt. I sampled several ways in which I could do so to find the most suitable boning channel. In the first sample I layered two fabrics together and then sewed two lines 2 cm away from each other, I then slotted in the boning. This example is good as it isn't too fiddly and time consuming, also it would be a strong hold for the boning, however it would be hard to get the precise measurements for the space between the lines when doing in a rounded shape, also I would need more acetate lining in order to use this technique. In the second sample I used a cotton bias binding, which is cut on the diagonal so is perfect when wanting to sew in a rounded shape as it allows it to curve. which I pinned and tacked along the edges onto a sample of the acetate lining, and then went over on a sewing machine, then slotted in the boning. This sample would also be a strong hold for the boning and would be easier to get the accuracy when sewing onto the lining, however it may be more time consuming as I will need to pin and tack the tape precisely before sewing. I have decided to have three boning channels going round the skirt, 15cm away from each other (shown in the working drawing of my skirt bellow). This will create a strong hold to the structure of the skirt, and will stop the fabric from drooping in my middle of the skirt. In order to hide the boning channels that will run along an acetate lining I have decided to do three layers to my skirt. An upper layer (made of thick, opaque jersey) so the boning is not visible from the top, the middle layer will be the acetate lining along with the boning channels, and the bottom layer will be an outer lining made from recycled Lycra, so that the boning channels and inner lining are not visible from the inside either. Waist- 60cm 45cm

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