HEAD GENEVA FIRST YEAR BACHELOR
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- Howard Chandler
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1 HEAD GENEVA FIRST YEAR BACHELOR
2 TO ME, JEWELRY DESIGN IS CREATION OF OBJECTS OBJECTS FOR THE BODY OBJECTS FOR HUMAN BEING LIVING OBJECTS THE HOLE / 1st PART THE HOLE / 2nd PART DRAWING ONE JEWEL, ONE PERSONALITY / 1st PART ONE JEWEL, ONE PERSONALITY / 2nd PART
3 It was my first work of jewelry. The theme was «THE HOLE» and «METAL». So, how could I make a hole with tough material? I worked only with iron wire, which offer several possibilities. I built different structures and assembly a lots of little sticks, which make a mobile object, a kind of movement, living jewel. Rings and Brooches, Black iron and white acrylic paint The hole is multiple. So, I made a collection of little jewels.
4 The jewel contains just one more item, in order to begin a ring, a brooch or at last a necklace. I put highlight on colour, and the illusion of hole, by add little drops of white acrylic paint at the end of each stick. These jewels move with the body. There are like animals, look like sea urchin. I always work with a little story or analogy. Rings and Brooches, Black iron and white acrylic paint Package in sponge These objects must be protected in a package. So, I use the sponge, smoothy material to warp my jewels, and memory of the microcosm of the sea.
5 The necklace put the hole at the middle of the body. Vertically, it is attractive. We have just a glance on it. The behaviour is different with a hole around your neck. Jewel can disturb your way of moving, living We are aware of it. This work was realized in three mounths (September/October/November 2006), and contains a dozen of pieces. Necklace, Black iron and white acrylic paint
6 For the second part of this first work, I decide to continue with wire. I want to make something more precious and I take silver wire to create new pieces. The sticks are plated one by one, and assemblied on a little structure. This time, I worked on different levels, and played with the superposition of the items and the colours. The silver is sometimes grey, and sometimes black thanks to a patina. Experiments in black iron Rings and Brooches, Black and white silver (925) This release looks like a kind of textile, less animal than the other.
7 We have to do another range for this theme. For the industrial jewels, I worked with little spaces, which remind the sticks, made by saw. The movement doesn t exist anymore. But I kept the graphism and the colours. The shapes are inspired by the circles of the first jewels. Packages deals with the mass production. I chose some common materials, like paper, plastic and rubber, in order to have a best way to sale and show the jewels. Industrial Rings and Brooches, Black and white aluminium Packages in plastic, paper and rubber This work was realized in two mounths (December 2006/January 2007), and contains a dozen of pieces.
8 The next work was a little exercise. The aim was to fabricate a jewel from a drawing of another student, without any more information. It was about the interpretation of drawings and how to communicate our ideas. I receive this sketch of LOUISE. I understand that it is a long necklace, with many circles, and she mentionned the use of playcards. Necklace, Sketch by LOUISE I have to make choices, decisions all by myself.
9 I wanted to play with the colours and the shapes on the play cards. I did some kinds of frames in silver, to show just a fragment of the cards. The funny idea of LOUISE was to use a game and try to make sense as a jewel. So I make an encounter with two Jacks, and make a joke with the word «Battle», one of the playcards game. This story, give me the idea to make a graphism research about the significant symbols of cards, to achieve this short work. Necklace, Silver (925), rivets and play cards This work was realized in one week.
10 This work follows the «Drawing». The target was to create a unik object for a character. My customer was : «John, 35 years old, computer scientist and fond of opera, wants to get his own jewel». I took the two different caracteristics of his personnality : the rigour of his job and its universe, contrasts with the ornament and the emotions of the opera show. Jewels for collar, Silver (925) plated and pressed I also keep the idea that the clothes are very important in his every day life. And I decide to work on the shirt, especially on the collar, symbol of the voice or sing, and the only part of the shirt which can be moved up or down, as his multi-personality.
11 I wanted to make something discreet and refined. The jewel is a thin pressed plate of silver. In order to create the best shape, I used the 2D software, which helped me for the size and the function of the product. It remembers the printed circuit and a sort of textile with the lines. The pattern is also useful. It takes part in the folding system, which make the jewel works. It s like a little clip for the each side of the collar. New type of jewel for men. Jewels for collar, Silver (925) plated and pressed Package in wood and plastic This work was realized in two weeks.
12 The second part of this theme, was to continue on three different ranges of industrial jewels. I want to explore more the principle of the pressed sheet of metal, and the possibilities to make new jewels for men. I chose to experiment the pocket of the shirt, which can contains, hides, or shows objects. The first product is a declenson of the last piece. It combines the press, the pattern and the shape of the badge, one of the most oridnary jewel on the pocket. Jewels for shirt pocket, Silver (925) plated and pressed Silver (925) plated and pressed with black iron sticks The second range deals with the same making, but this time the little sticks which are used for the pattern, take a real part of the jewel. They create the system of hanging to the pocket, seem to a microchip.
13 Those two pieces, continue with the same idea of the first project, which is the plated and pressed shapes in silver. The badge can be also in textile. So I combine metal sheet and textile, to create a new folding system, a hinge of fabric. The jewels get two positions, closed and opened, which offer the choice of what side the user want to show. A contrast exists between the textile, smooth and light, and the silver, tough and heavy, and the colour of those two materials. It s more sensitive than the first badge piece. Badges for shirt pocket, Silver (925) plated and pressed with textile hinge For me, it s the first step of thinking about unmetallic jewels for men.
14 The medal, the old-watch are the symbols of the past, the nostalgic elegance, ancient jewels for men. Nowadays old-fashioned, they can be re-design. The chain is the most important componant of these jewels because it s the only thing everyone can see. So I worked on its role and what could I do with it. The motif was the result of the chain under the press. All items of the jewel take part of its realization. The random, even if it s a little bit controlled, makes each piece unik. Medals for shirt pocket, Silver (925) plated and pressed and Silver Chain At last, I propose two different objects : one, is just a medal, hangs on the pocket, and the second, just shows the chain, which is hanged on a button of the shirt, thanks to a plated silver ring. This work was realized in three weeks.
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