Amino Acid Based Surfactant for Natural Cosmetics & Sulfate-Free Personal Care Products. In-Cosmetics 2015

Transcription

1 Innovation Seminars April 14th, 2015 AMISOFT ECS-22W Amino Acid Based Surfactant for Natural Cosmetics & Sulfate-Free Personal Care Products In-Cosmetics 2015 Nana Haraya Cosmetic Group Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

2 Outline Background Natural and Sulfate-Free Trend Challenges for Formulating without Sulfates Properties of AMISOFT ECS-22W Mildness for Skin Skin Conditioning Effect Foamability Applications Sulfate-Free Shower Products Natural Shower Products BSP-0060E-2

3 European Market Natural Personal Care Products The market has been growing at a fast rate. - Growing consumers demand for natural/organic personal care products - New entrants and new product launches. BSP-0060E-3

4 Natural Personal Care Product Claims Natural products feature a free from trend. Impression Harshness-Free Irritation-Free Gentle Skin Compatibility Mildness Eco-friendly & Sustainable Free from DEA, preservatives, sulfates, PEG-derivatives silicones. Green Natural BSP-0060E-4

5 Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products It has grown significantly and has spread to numerous regions in the last 3 years. Rate of Number of New Launch Claim with Sulfate-free (%) 20% 15% 10% 5% Since 2007 Asia Pacific L. America M. East & Africa N. America Europe 0% Source: Mintel GNPD BSP-0060E-5

6 Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products Similar concepts are pervading worldwide Sulfate-free / non-sulfate in North America Surfactant-free in Southeast Asia Amino acid shampoo in Japan Sulfate-free / non-sulfate Surfactant - free Amino acid shampoo BSP-0060E-6

7 Alkyl Ether Sulfates LES (AES, sulfate ) The first choice for shower products / shampoos. Good foamer in a wide ph range Suitable for liquid products in terms of solubility and thickening property Developed as a soft mild surfactant against AS (SDS) Always contains certain amount of SDS as an impurity When SDS is absorbed into the skin, it is known to cause protein denaturation, inhibition enzymes. SDS BSP-0060E-7

8 What You Want? By shifting to Sulfate-free formulations What You Expect Labels with Sulfate-free Claims Milder, more Gentle Products What You DON T Want to Give up Easy Formulations: Viscosity & Transparent Cost increase Natural / Sustainable Message Foamability Struggling to make sulfate-free products. BSP-0060E--8

9 AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT the desired properties as primary surfactant for sulfate-free products Mild with excellent conditioning effect Natural R Eco-friendly N H & Sustainable Performance NEW AMISOFT AJINOMOTO s Sulfate-Free Surfactant Solutions AMISOFT ECS-22W INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate BSP-0060E-- 9

10 AMISOFT is Derived from Natural Origins AMISOFT H 2 N COO - Vegetable-origin fatty acid Glutamic acid COO - H N COO - Na + O COO - Na + BSP-0060E-- 10

11 AMISOFT is Derived from Natural Origins AMISOFT H 2 N COO - Vegetable-origin fatty acid Glutamic acid COO - AMISOFT ECS-22W is being produced in Indonesia, considering starting materials availability. BSP-0060E-- 11

12 NEW Natural Foaming Surfactant Natural Extremely mild Eco-Friendly Rapid Biodegradation AMISOFT ECS-22W High skin compatibility Good performance at the skin-neutral ph (ph 5 ~ 6) Conditioning / moisturizing feel A comfortable and soft feeling to the skin during and after use with minimum skin dryness High performance Suitable for clear products Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious foam Ideal as a primary surfactant of sulfate-free products 12

13 Properties of AMISOFT ECS-22W

14 Mildness of AMISOFT Cytotoxicity AMISOFT is an extremely mild surfactant. AMISOFT ECS-22SB Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Decyl Glucoside CAPB SLES Mild TC 50 (µg/ml) Cytotoxicity test of neutral red method. Tested as a 12wt% of solution. SMES ph value was determined based on maximum foam volumes. TC50 : concentration causing a 50% growth reduction. TS Data Sheet No E BSP-0060E-- 14

15 Biodegradability of AMISOFT AMISOFT is highly biodegradable. 100 Biodegradation Profile AMISOFT LS-11 Biodegradability (BOD degradation rate %) Days AMILITE GCK-12 Sodium Methyl Lauroyl Taurate Sodium Lauryl Phoshate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Sodium Laurate aniline <Method> OECD guideline (Modified MITI guideline) <Result> Biodegradability of AMISOFT and AMILITE is better than that of other surfactants. TS Data Sheet No E (60% BOD degradation rate in six days) Reference : Kawasaki and Takino Fragrance Journal,19(10), 45(1991) BSP-0060E-- 15

16 Impact of AMISOFT on Skin Moisture AMISOFT does not cause skin dryness after heavy wash Conductance(μS) AMISOFT AMISOFT SLES CS Wash Cycle <Test Surfactants> A : AMISOFT (10 wt% active) B : Sodium Laureth Sulfate (10 wt% active) TS Data Sheet No E :consecutive decrease Research in skin Institute moisture. for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals BSP-0060E-- 16

17 Retain more NMF by AMISOFT AMISOFT does not remove skin natural moisturizers so much from skin. Amino acids PCA Relative amount of NMF in the skin after washing NMF:Natural Moisturizing Factor amount of NMF before washing N=4, mean±s.d. AMISOFT SLES Soap AMISOFT SLES Soap TS Data Sheet No E BSP-0060E-- 17

18 Foam Volume (ml) Foam Volume and Stability of AMISOFT ECS-22W Excellent foaming and foam stability AMISOFT ECS ECS-22W 1.2% active, 35 o C, tap ハンドミキサー法 water (water hardness: 35 水道水 60ppm 1.2wt% as CaCO active 3 ),ph5.8 0 min. 5 min. SLES Sar CMT SSC CAPB CB LAA DPG SLES:Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sar:Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, CMT:Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, SSC:Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, CAPB:Cocamidopropyl Betaine, CB:Coco-betaine, LAA:Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, DPG:Decyl Glucoside TS Data Sheet No E BSP-0060E-- 18

19 Applications of AMISOFT ECS-22W Benefits in Sulfate-Free Shower Products Mild Easy Formulations Good Foamability Natural Shower Products

20 Mild Cytotoxicity: Sulfate-free Prototype Formulation A sulfate-free product with AMISOFT is very mild. wt% Anionics (active) 6.0 Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15.0 Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4.7 Citric acid ph 5.8 Water balance AMISOFT AMISOFT ECS-22SB Sar Ise CMT Comparison (as primary surfactant) AMISOFT Sar:Sodium lauroyl sarcosine Ise:Sodium cocoyl isethionate CMT:Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate SLES:Sodium laureth sulfate TC50 (mg/ml) Mild SLES TS Data Sheet No E BSP-0060E-- 20

21 Mild Easy Formulations Guide Formulation 1: Sulfate-free Shower Gel By using AMISOFT ECS-22W, good viscosity and clarity can be achieved easily. KNS W (wt%) AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 20.0 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 15.0 SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (32%) 4.7 GLYCERYL CAPRATE 2.0 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3 PEG-150 DISTEARATE 0.4 CITRIC ACID to ph5.8 PRESERVATIVES 0.3 WATER Balance FRAGRANCE Clear appearance Suitable viscosity 7,700 mpa s BSP-0060E-- 21

22 Mild Easy Formulations Foamability of Sulfate-free Formulation AMISOFT product outstrips the sulfate product in terms of foam value and stability. Foamability 310 5% as is, 35 o C, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO 3 ) 90 Foam Volume (ml) Foam Stability (%) 250 AMISOFT ECS-22W sulfate-free formulation Sar Ise CMT SLES 40 TS Data Sheet No E BSP-0060E-- 22

23 Mild Easy Formulations Foam Appearance of Sulfate-free Formulation Foamability Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious foam Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate free products SLES AMISOFT ECS-22W BSP-0060E-- 23

24 Guide Formulation 2: Natural Cleansing Formulation ALL Natural (ECOCERT certified) CSAN-5W (wt%) AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 10.0 DECYL GLOUCISIDE (30%) 10.0 GLYCERYL CAPRATE 0.2 DISODIUM COCOPOLYGLUCOSE CITRATE 5.0 XANTHAN GUM 1.0 CITRIC ACID to ph5.8 CAE 0.2 WATER Clear appearance Suitable viscosity 5,000 mpa s Balance BSP-0060E-- 24

25 Summary AMISOFT ECS-22W Natural Eco-friendly & Sustainable Economical Mild with excellent conditioning effect Excellent foaming properties and luxurious creamy & dense foam Ideal as a primary surfactant can be utilized as main surfactants, or even as an additive. Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate free products BSP-0060E-- 25

26 Thank you for listening! AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT R N H AMISOFT ECS-22W INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate BSP-0060E-- 26