RSPB Aberdeen Local Group Trip to the French Pyrenees

Transcription

1 Page 1 RSPB Aberdeen Local Group Trip to the French Pyrenees 9 th to 16 th June 2012 By Hilary MacBean, Trip Leader Participants: Hilary MacBean, Wilma Rae, Angela Gowdy, Trevor Donaldson, Tim Marshall, Bob Littlejohn, Peter Osborn, Eric Melrose, Paddy Grant. Introduction Tim, Trevor, Eric, Paddy, Angela, Hilary, Peter, Bob, Wilma The trip was centred on the valleys of the Gave de Pau, from Col du Tourmalet in the East to Col du Soulor in the West. The spectacular cirques at Gavarnie and Troumouse and the Port de Boucharo took us up to the divide and the border with Spain and we visited Pibeste, North of Argeles Gazost, in the approach hills. In the mountain area we listed 92 species during the week, adding a further seven species of note, seen on the journey to and from the Airport and near Toulouse. Travel We flew with Lufthansa from Aberdeen to Toulouse via Frankfurt. We were based in a fine and well appointed house, La Petite Maison des Montagnes, in the centre of Luz St Sauveur. Information Sources Birdwatching Sites in France, South of the Loire by J. Crozier Finding Birds in Southern France by Dave Gosney Guiding by Jude Lock, Borderline Holidays, Luz St Sauveur borderlinehols@orange.fr, accompanied by Christian Habas, for 30 years the Head Ornithologist, Parc National des Pyrenées Occidentales (retired) and the chief researcher on Pyrenean Ptarmigan; as well as Roger Buglass, wildlife photographer. Guiding by Charles Hopper LPO member charleshopper@hotmail.com

2 Page 2 Saturday 9 th June La Petite Maison des Montagnes, Luz St Sauveur. HM On the way from Toulouse we noticed a range of raptors: Short-toed Eagle, Common Buzzard, Kestrel, Hobby, and Black and Red Kites stood out. We arrived in Luz in the early evening and lost no time in scanning the surrounding crags for raptors, rising on the thermals. Griffon Vultures and a Golden Eagle soon showed. We soon added town birds such as Crag Martin, Swift and Swallow, a good population of House Sparrows and Black Redstart, Goldfinches and Greenfinches, while on the river there were Dipper, Grey and White Wagtail. Peter Derbyshire and Jude Lock of Borderline Holidays introduced themselves and outlined some good locations in the area. We were also directed to the church tower, where a Scops Owl was resident. It showed well at 23.00, through the attic room skylight, a flood-lit television aerial being a favoured perch. Sunday 10 th June Cloud and showers threatened but undeterred we headed to Chez Louisette and the forest at Le Leinz, on the Tourmalet road, out of Barege, searching for Black Woodpecker and Citril Finch. We heard Black Woodpecker and found a range of woodland birds including Goldcrest, Crested Tit, Siskin, Serin, Firecrest, Nuthatch and lots of Chaffinches, Coal Tits, Chiffchaff and Wren. A Cuckoo called in the background. Common Crossbill PG Alpine Accentor

3 Page 3 We moved on to the Vallée de la Glere, near by, as the cliffs at the head are known for Wallcreeper. Some took the steep climb up to examine the crags at close quarters, but no luck. Very active, fledged families of Common Crossbill and Crested Tit showed well at close range, whilst Trevor and those who did not make the climb found Alpine Accentor on a high crag. We had our first views of the endearing Marmots, Water Pipits and Northern Wheatear that are common in the hills throughout the area. A deluge ensued, so we headed back to Luz. Monday 11 th June Vallée d Ossoue HM Lammergeier PG Griffon Vulture nest Roger Buglass A bright and sunny day dawned for our guided trip with Jude Lock and Roger Buglass. We first headed for Vallée d Ossoue where the cliffs on each side revealed a fabulous display of wheeling Griffon Vultures, Lammergeier, Golden Eagle, Raven and high above, an Alpine Swift. Both Red-billed and Alpine Choughs mobbed the bigger birds. There were perched Lammergeier on the cliffs and we all had the best views ever of these majestic birds. In the valley, we found Rock Bunting, Black Redstart, Wheatear and Stonechat, as well as a passage Woodchat Shrike. We went on up the ski road and stopped in the hair-pins for Red-backed Shrike and Yellowhammer and a fine view of a Short-toed Eagle. It was then apparent that the House Martins of the Pyrenees occupy a high altitude niche whereas the Crag Martins tend to be lower down.

4 Page 4 Red-backed Shrike R Buglass Marmot TM After a lunch stop overlooking the cliffs we moved towards the Col du Tourmalet. Jude indicated a number of side valleys and high locations for later in the week and we walked up a rather bleak rocky track in search of Rock Thrush. The conditions were cold and dull so the birds appeared to be keeping their heads down but we did find a high density of Northern Wheatear territories. We moved up to the ski-area for a known Snowfinch nesting site. We probably flushed them and they were gone, but we discovered a clever adaptation, such that they use, as nesting holes, the open ends of the upper gantries of the ski lifts. A minor disaster ensued when Bob believed that the car keys were locked in his vehicle - at the top of Col de Tourmalet of all places! A further search of pockets by Eric produced the offending keys. We cursed car designs that seem to have a mind of their own. Jude and Roger headed for home but we defied a cold wind and sought out the Snowfinches at the café, up on the col. They were crouching around the car park, as though it was winter, but breeding pairs pressed on with their feeding task and gave great views. Snowfinch (m) PG Snowfinch bathing PG Tuesday 12 th June The day started wet and stayed wet with low cloud, until mid-afternoon. Jude had plans to take us to Col du Soulor and had asked along the brilliant French Ornithologist, Christian Habas, to show us breeding raptors and hopefully, Wallcreeper. In pouring rain we walked to where we could over-look a Griffon

5 Page 5 Vulture s nest and had good views of our first Egyptian Vultures. Closer by, Tree Pipits parachuted off rocky perches and a newly fledged, bedraggled Black Redstart was being fed. Tree Pipit Roger Buglass Black Redstart Roger Buglass The hope was for lifting skies but it was not to be, so we retreated to Pibeste, above Agos Vidalos. Whilst sheltering in a hunting cabin, we ate lunch and listened to a tremendous range of woodland and scrub birds in excellent habitat, in the quarry and surrounding trees. Blackcap and Garden Warbler were easily distinguishable. We also heard Turtle Dove and saw Cirl Bunting, Spotted Flycatcher, Linnet, Chiffchaff and Greater Spotted Woodpecker, all in the immediate area. These were added to singing Corn Bunting, heard earlier. Some followed Christian s route up an old packhorse road through the dense deciduous woodland. At a small drinking trough, he stopped to show us the resident Pyrenean Newts (Calotriton asper), an endemic in the area. Pyrenean Newt Roger Buglass Adonis Blue PG Black-veined White RB Western Bonelli s Warbler RB

6 Page 6 We reached an old Grange high up the hill and under huge cliffs. The sun was coming out and Griffon Vultures were taking to the air and perched spreadeagled, to dry their wings. Christian Habas demonstrates wing drying Griffon Vulture (HM) A breeding pair of Egyptian Vultures showed well against the blue sky and a raucous group of three fledged young Peregrines were tearing about. There was a noisy Great Spotted Woodpecker nest in the vicinity and some lovely butterflies including Black-veined White and Adonis Blue, in the grange meadow. On the way down, we were thrilled to hear and then find Western Bonelli s Warbler, a lifer for most. That evening, the setting sun glistened on newly fallen snow on the higher peaks, whilst the verdant green summer vegetation, below, provided an unusual contrast. Wednesday 13 th June Gavarnie PG Today, Peter Derbyshire advised a trip to the Gavarnie Valley. There was just a chance that the new snow on the high tops may have forced Wallcreeper down to feed on the lower cliffs. We walked up the river path from Garvanie village in bright sunshine and the early mist rose off the cirque walls. The effect was dramatic and the whole scene was stunningly beautiful. We found our first Citril Finches as we left the village and then found a lot more feeding on the short grass of the valley bottom.

7 Page 7 Citril Finch TM Alpine Chough PG The conifer forest to the east slopes of the valley drew our attention as we heard a Black Woodpecker pair calling. We encouraged them with similar calls but a Golden Oriole call from Trevor seemed to have the desired effect and both birds showed briefly but to striking effect, in the strong sunlight. A range of small birds, including Crested Tit, Bullfinch, Garden Warbler, Tree Pipit and Chiffchaff all showed well. As we climbed the hairpins to the hotel, a pair of Golden Eagle soared above the cliffs and the Alpine Choughs kept calling. On reaching the hotel and the higher viewpoint we spent some time diligently scanning the near cliffs and the higher walls of the cirque, neck-ache notwithstanding, but there was no sign of Wallcreeper. Paddy kept up the photography with some interesting angles on the searchers. We then descended to find Bob s 15 year old shirt (!!), identified by its Rohan label, by the footpath. He was remorselessly teased into admitting he had misplaced it, but he was happy to be re-united. Gavarnie valley HM Gavarnie, return route HM Gavarnie HM

8 Page 8 We returned to Gavarnie via the west path down the river where some saw Green Woodpecker. This is a most beautiful path with the best alpine flowers and butterflies we had seen. Col de Tentes and Port de Boucharo, PG Northern Wheatear R Buglass We finished the day with a drive up to Col de Tentes and views into the wild Vallée de Pouey Aspé. Some resumed the scanning search for Wallcreeper and Rock Thrush whilst Paddy, Eric and Hilary walked to Spain by walking up the track to the Port de Boucharo, at 2270 metres on the divide. We saw more Griffons and Golden Eagle high above the mountain and nearly got blown back to France by the high wind on the col. We retreated down the track to see a Stoat carrying what appeared to be a Vole, back to its nest. Marmots were everywhere and we noticed the particularly light colouring and large black eye-stripe of the local Wheatears. These are sometimes mistaken for a pale-throated Black-eared Wheatear but they are, in fact, a local morph of Northern Wheatear. Thursday 14 th June It was another fine day, with temperatures rising, so we decided to return to the Col du Soulor. Trevor had asked Charles Hopper if he would like to join us. This was agreed in return for eating in Charles pizzeria that evening not a problem! We hoped to find Wallcreeper on a known breeding cliff close to the road and we also hoped that the soaring raptors, for which the col is known, would put on their display in the fine weather. Before going up to the col, we visited the woodland south of Soulom, known for holding seven Woodpecker species. March is the best time for woodpeckers but we wanted to try to find them anyway. Charles soon found Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, although views were very brief in the heavy leaf cover. We then tried a known Middle Spotted Woodpecker site further into the wood. Calls drew the bird out. Tim obtained a good view and we all heard the bird calling and got very fleeting views as it flew. Peter returned early one morning and found the bird, obtaining good views. A long search for the Wallcreeper, below Col de Soulor did produce two fleeting and distant sightings by Tim and Eric but, despite our best combined efforts, nothing better. We had good views of Griffon Vulture and Lammergeier but not in the numbers reputed for the site. Kestrel and Linnets were around and we were kept entertained by a passing group of touring Ferraris, what a sight!

9 Page 9 Above Col de Soulor PG Search for Wallcreeper below Solour (PG) We then walked to a Rock Thrush site indicated by Jude. There were a few walkers about so it may have been disturbed and we had no luck. Charles then took us to the riverine woodland at Lac de Gave, south of Argeles Gazost. This area contrasts with the surrounding mountains and is a rich habitat for woodland birds. Lac de Gave HM On the lake and weir we found a White Wagtail family and newly fledged Dipper. We then spotted a pair of Little Ringed Plover, likely to be breeding on the shingle bars on the river. The lake held little but Mallard and a Heron but is known for Kingfisher and a range of wintering birds, in season. By the track we heard and then found Nightingale singing strongly. Down the river, the piping of Common Sandpiper soon revealed their presence on the riverside. There were many House Sparrows and then a pair of Tree Sparrows showed well. Spotted Flycatcher and Serin could be heard. Further down, a Short-toed Treecreeper was calling like a tiny Kingfisher and was seen by most. There followed a fine lasagne and wine at Charles pizzeria, where Angela made an able waitress, as Charles was on his own. The wine slid down well and Angela, Wilma, Peter and Tim caused a minor local disturbance as they searched for the Scop s Owl, on the way home. Friday 15 th June Friday was another fine day with a maximum temperature of 31 degrees C and bright sunshine. We headed for the Col de Tourmalet. Before reaching the col, one car stopped for a brilliant, close view of a Short-toed Eagle, hanging in the wind as it slowly descended down the valley.

10 Page 10 On the col, we left crowds of cyclists celebrating a seriously tough ascent and set off up the gradually ascending track towards Pic du Midi de Bigorre. There were many Northern Wheatear territories and most males were in the same light plumage, with a strong eye stripe, as that at Port du Boucharo. We passed under a high cliff, before reaching the tunnel at 2100 metres and began to hear Dunnock-like calls, realising we were in Accentor territory. Bassin du Bastan from Pic du Midi track Above Col du Tourmalet HM PG The Good, the Bad and the Ugly search for Alpine Accentor PG Psodos quadrifaria PG Then two birds, a pair, were seen in full courting ritual just above the track, giving everybody good, close views. Soon we saw several Alpine Accentors flickering around the low heather-like scrub on the hillside. We also spotted a very unusual moth in on the stony track. At 2cm, full wingspan, it was small but very well marked, its velvet black upper wings contrasting with strong yellow markings on each wing. It was later identified by Tim as Psodos quadrifaria, a high peak specialist. (Photo Paddy Grant, on high zoom) We then drove to the beautiful Heas Valley above Gedre and up steep hairpins to Lac des Gloriettes. Some stayed on the large dam and scanned the precipice opposite for Wallcreeper (spotted at this location by Charles, during the following week), whilst others headed up the hill to the Plateau de Coumély. Page 11

11 Lac des Gloriettes PG Grange at Plateau de Coumély PG The objective was to find Rock Thrush at a known site. The group of old shepherd s crofts were full of vernacular charm and we saw a nice range of birds, including a Grey Partridge flushed by Paddy. On our last day, the Rock Thrush still eluded us. Never give up! Back at the car park Tim suddenly heard thrush calls and there it was, a fine male on a rock below. We ran to join him and startled some Belgian tourists. We all got great views, including the Belgians, who were amazed at our enthusiasm for a small bird! The bird moved up the hillside and then went out of view, but its call continued. Further up we found another bird on a fence post, concluding, from its behaviour, that it was more likely to be a juvenile than the very similar female. Meanwhile, we became aware of a Black Redstart s nest just inside a mine entrance. How the nestlings survived the very cold air emanating from inside the mine, we did not know. Feeling bullish again, we finished the trip by driving up an endless set of hairpins to the Cirque de Troumouse, a wild and dramatic mountain bowl, surrounded by an unrelenting and massive wall of high cliffs. It looked inviting for a walk but our time was up. Cirque de Troumouse PG Red Kite TM Trumpet Gentian PG Page 12

12 We admired the Trumpet Gentians and a well marked Red Kite flying against the rocky backdrop. We then noticed a small herd of four Isard up on the hillside before we retreated down hill. We dined at La Grange aux Marmottes, in the small village of Viscos, outside Luz. This was a pretty place, both inside and out, with fine views of the mountains and a most friendly staff. The food was beautiful and excellent value for a three course menu, a great way to finish the trip. Saturday 16 th June We were reluctant to leave the bright sun of the South of France for the chilly rain and 10 degrees C, promised in Aberdeen, but we had to go. The trip had proved a great success. On the way to and from Toulouse, we added some noteworthy birds to the list: Hobby, Golden Oriole, Little Egret, Yellow-legged Gull and Mute Swans. Later, Peter added Yellow Wagtail and Whitethroat, in a few hours spent outside Toulouse. Our great thanks go to Peter Derbyshire, Jude Lock, Christian Habas, Roger Buglass and Charles Hopper, all of whose expert local knowledge and guiding added considerably to the enjoyment of our trip. End Hilary MacBean Species List attached, 92 bird species seen

13 RSPB Aberdeen Local Group Trip to French Pyrenees 9 th to 16 th June 2012 Bird List; seen in area of Gave Valleys and adjacent cols and cirques, centred on Luz St Sauveur Alpine Accentor (best at Col de Tourmalet to Pic de Midi track) Alpine Chough Barn Swallow Black Kite Black Redstart Black Woodpecker (best at Garvanie and Foret le Leinz) Blackbird Blackcap Blue Tit Booted Eagle Bullfinch Carrion Crow Chaffinch Chiff Chaff Cirl Bunting (Pibeste) Citril Finch (many feeding on short grass at Garvanie) Coal Tit Collared Dove Common Buzzard Common Crossbill (best at upper Glere valley) Common Sandpiper (Pau de Gare, Argeles) Common Swift Corn Bunting (en route to Col de Soulor) Crag Martin Crested Tit Cuckoo Dipper Dunnock Egyptian Vulture (best at Col de Soulor) Feral Pigeon Firecrest Garden Warbler Gold Crest Golden Eagle (best at Ossou valley) Goldfinch Great Tit Greater Spotted Woodpecker Green Woodpecker (h) Greenfinch Grey Heron Grey Partridge (flushed at Gargantuan Granges, Lac de Gloriettes) Grey Wagtail

14 Griffon Vulture House Martin House Sparrow Jay Kestrel Lammergeier (best at Ossou Valley) Lesser Spotted Woodpecker (Foret de Soulom) Linnet Little Ringed Plover (Pau de Gare, Argeles) Long-tailed Tit Magpie Mallard Middle Spotted Woodpecker (Foret de Soulom) Mistle Thrush Nightingale (Pau de Gare, Argeles) Northern Wheatear Nuthatch Peregrine Falcon (best at Pibeste) Pheasant Raven Red Kite Red-backed Shrike Red-billed Chough Robin Rock Bunting (Ossoue Valley) Rock Thrush (adjacent to Lac de Gloriettes car park) Scop s Owl Luz de Sauveur Serin Short-toed Eagle (best at Col de Tourmalet) Short-toed Treecreeper Siskin check **** Snowfinch (best around ski area at Col de Tourmalet) Song Thrush Sparrowhawk Spotted Flycatcher Starling Stonechat Tawny Owl (h) check****** Tree Pipit (Col de Soulor) Tree Sparrow Turtle Dove (h) Pibeste Wallcreeper (fleeting and distant near Col de Soulor) Water Pipit (common on mountain sides) Western Bonelli s Warbler (Pibeste) White Wagtail Wood Pigeon Woodchat Shrike (probably on passage, at Ossoue Valley) Wren Yellowhammer 91

15 Additional birds of note seen en-route to Toulouse Golden Oriole Hobby Little Egret Mute Swan Yellow-legged Gull Yellow Wagtail Whitethroat 5 Other Species of Note Mammals European Red Squirrel Isard Marmot Stoat Butterflies and Moths Adonis Blue Black moth with wide yellow stripes on both for and aft wings, 2cm wingspan, seen on track from Col de Tourmalet id? Black-veined White Clouded Yellow Garden Tiger Moth caterpillar Grizzled Skipper Hummingbird Hawkmoth Mountain Ringlet Orange Tip Pearl-bordered Fritillary Small Blue Small Tortoise Shell Swallowtail Reptiles Pyrenean Newt Calotriton asper (endemic) Wall lizard Missing birds reported to be in N. Pyrenees in summer but not seen by us Alpine Swift Barn Owl

16 Bonelli s Eagle (scarce in N. Pyrenees) Capercaille (very scarce) Cetti s Warbler Goshawk Hawfinch Hazel Grouse (very scarce) Hen Harrier Honey Buzzard Hoopoe Kingfisher Long-eared Owl Marsh Tit Melodious Warbler Moorhen Nightjar Ortolan Bunting Ptarmigan (at higher altitude than achieved by us, 2270m) Quail Red-legged Partridge Redstart Ring Ouzel Rock Sparrow Sand Martin Sardinian Warbler (recently reported in area) Skylark Stock Dove Subalpine Warbler (recently reported in area) Treecreeper Whinchat White-backed Woodpecker Woodcock Woodlark Wryneck