LX STEEL BUILDING INSTALLATION MANUAL

Transcription

2 QuickenManufacturingInc. Contents Tools required... 2 Parts list... 2 Overview... 3 Site Prep Pouring a slab... 4 Mounting on bare soil... 4 Laying Out the Ground Rails... 5 Building Trusses... 6 Building the End-wall Bracing the End-wall... 8 Setting Uprights on End-walls... 8 Framing a Door... 9 Hat Channel Wall Hat Channel Roof Hat Channel Before Installing Wall Panels Eave Trim Driver (battery or corded) Driver bits (3/8, 5/16) Snips Cut-off saw or equivalent Reciprocating saw (for walk doors) Grinder (optional) Basic Layout Diagram Trusses: right side rafter units left side rafter units studs (2 per truss) (1) Peak brace and (2) Knee braces Ground rails Hat channel Trims: Base trim Door j-channel Door c-channel Corners Gable rakes Required Tools Parts List Eave trim Ridge Caps Peak boxes Wall panels Roof panels Screws Frame screws Wall panel screws Trim screws Roof screws Roof trim screws Anchors (wedge or ground anchors) Angle brackets (90 deg. and pitched) Base and door trim Wall Insulation Sidewall Panels Corner Trim Roof Insulation Panels Skylights Gable trim Ridge Caps Installing a roll-up door Sidewall Roll-up Doors Door and Window kits Reinforcing rafters in wide bldgs Gutters and Downspouts Customer notes LX types and examples inch x ½" concrete bit (if slab-mounted) Gloves 4 ft. level Tape measure Utility knife Optional parts: Skylights Skylight trim Skylight washers Roll-up door kit(s) Walk door kit(s) Window kit(s) Insulation Insulation facing tape Double stick tape Gutters

3 The LX Steel Building The LX Steel Building is a sturdy, economical structure designed to meet both private and commercial needs. It consists of a 14 gauge, 2 x 3 galvanized metal tubing frame fit together with specially designed eave and peak brackets and covered with either 29- or 26-gauge Tuff-rib or 26- gauge PBR panels with over 20 color options. 24- gauge panels are also available in either profile. Engineering for the LX includes all the state of Florida and allows for a building up to 40 ft. wide fig. 3-1 A simple LX with a single roll-up door. with up to 16 ft. high side walls. The LX Building is versatile in that it offers many desirable options. Engineering allows up to three roll-up doors in either or both ends, as well as multiple roll-up doors in the sides. Other possibilities include walk doors, windows, skylights, gutters, and low-profile foil insulation. The LX Building is available with or without extended eaves The LX Building is designed for fast, uncomplicated installation with easy-to-follow instructions. The purpose of this manual is to provide a general overview for erecting the building. It is supposed that the installer has a general knowledge of building, and some understanding of steel structures. This manual is intended to show the purpose of all components in the building kit and the order in which they were intended to be installed, and should be carefully adhered to for a successful installation of the LX building. When necessary, specific instructions for the LX kit are included with the delivery. This will include any drawings necessary for positioning roll-up doors, or comments concerning any other special features. Questions can be resolved or help obtained by contacting the salesman for your building. Installation of the LX Building consists of (1) Site Prep, (2) setting up the frame, (3) installing the panels and trim, and (4) mounting roll-up doors. fig. 3-2 With proper planning, custom windows and walkdoors (furnished by customer) can fit right in to the LX Building. For proper results, install components in the order prescribed. 1¼" 12" fig. 3-3 The Tuff-rib panel (top) and PBR panel (bottom) both offer a 36" net coverage. 9" ¾" - 3 -

4 Preparing the Site SAME Length Width fig. 4-1 Slab layout showing location of ground rails 1½" 1½" The "width" of the LX Steel Building is the measurement from the panel mounting surface of one side to the panel mounting surface of the other, or in other words, from outside of hat channel to outside of hat channel. This allows the panel and/or trim to mount flush with the outside of the slab fig. 4-2 Ground rails should be positioned1½" from edge of slab. Pouring a Slab The concrete slab should have straight sides with square corners and have the same dimensions as the sales description of the LX Building. When erecting the building, squareness of the building must have priority over unsquare or irregular slabs. Consult local and state building codes for details on slab. Buildings mounted on concrete slabs are anchored to the slab using 7-inch wedge anchors provided with the kit (see fig. 5-2). Holes for anchors come pre-drilled in the rails and require a ½" concrete bit (not included) for drilling into the slab. For positioning of ground rails on slab, see fig If the building is to be mounted on a concrete area larger than the building, it should be ordered without base trim and installed with the panel almost touching the slab. For mounting on bare soil, the site should be level and smooth, and the frame should be anchored with mobile home anchors, as shown in fig Note that the ground rails are factorydrilled from side-to-side for attaching the anchor, that the hat channel is attached higher than the normal height for cement slab installation, and that the base trim is omitted

5 Laying Out the Ground Rails The Basic Layout Diagram should be consulted to identify and lay out the ground rails. Ground rails should be laid out and fit together on the prepared surface, with special attention paid first to proper spacing of roll-up door gaps, then to squareness. Openings for roll-up doors should be exactly 4 inches wider than the door. Cut-outs for walk door openings, and the addition of extra anchor holes, both of which are made by the installer, are addressed on page 24. If more than 1 roll-up door is present on a wall, extra care should be taken to assure the proper widths to be maintained by the openings, as well as the alignment of the isolated rail between the doors with the rest of the wall. See pages for special considerations about sidewall roll-up doors. fig. 5-1a (left) Longer ground rails may be in 2 or more pieces SAME Door width inches fig. 5-1 Laying out the ground rails fig. 5-1b Front and rear ground rails slide onto inserts welded to stud hat channel panel stud hat channel ground rail panel finished view wedge anchor slab concrete slab base trim fig. 5-2 When mounted on a distinct concrete slab, wedge anchors attach the building to the slab, and base trim seals the ends of the panels. If mounted on open concrete, base trim is not used. ground rail mobile home anchor soil finished view fig. 5-3 When mounted on bare soil, mobile home anchors secure the frame to the ground. Note that the hat channel is mounted higher than the slab-mounted building at the left, and that no base trim is used

6 Building the Trusses 1 peak brace 2 knee braces right and left truss members see fig. 6-2 peak brace rafter eave bracket 2 studs see fig. 7-1 d d knee brace stud w = advertised width of building minus 3 inches example: for a 30 ft. wide building, the outside measurement is 30 ft. minus 3 in., or 29 ft. 9 in. fig. 6-1 Components (above left) and the assembled truss. Note that end wall trusses are identical to above but do not use peak or knee braces. The truss unit is made square by adjusting diagonals (d) to be the same. w The assembled rafter/stud unit in this manual will be referred to as a truss. See page 25 for frame variation for wide buildings (greater than 34 ft.). Laying Out the First Truss As a Template for the Rest 1 On a level slab or other large, flat surface, lay out components for one frame unit out in approximate position shown above. This unit will serve as a pattern for the remaining ones. Do not add screws until all parts are aligned (step 6). 2. Fit right and left factory-assembled rafter portions of the truss together at the peak bracket, with rafters just touching as in fig. 6-2 at right. 3. Fully insert studs into each eave bracket as shown, making sure the stud is touching the rafter as in fig Adjust measurement of outside of studs across eave brackets until fig. 6-2 Assembled peak bracket. Rafter corners should just touch each other. width measurement "w" is reached (advertised width of building, minus 3 inches). 4. Adjust outside measurement at bottom of studs to be the same as top (width "w"). 5. Confirm squareness of truss assembly by making diagonal measurements ("d" in fig. 6-1) as nearly identical as possible

7 6. Recheck and confirm all steps above (steps 2 through 5), then apply frame screws to all exposed holes in eave and peak brackets. If possible, mark position of members on slab or ground to prevent shifting. 7. Slide peak brace fully onto truss assembly as shown, maintaining the same distance on each side of the peak, and attach with 1 screw at each end. 8. Attach ends of knee brace at same distance from eave bracket using one frame screw at each end. To avoid shifting the template, apply screws to the underside of this unit after the other units are assembled. 9. Using this first frame unit as a pattern, lay out each successive unit on top of it and apply screws, being sure to flip each truss in order to apply screws to the reverse side as well. Trusses may be stood in their upright positions as each is completed (see below). Be sure to add final screws to the reverse side of the pattern truss after the others are completed. End wall trusses are made in the same manner, but are put together without peak braces or knee braces. For buildings with side roll-up doors, trusses over the door should be assembled according as above, but with special studs where rollups are involved. See pgs for special instructions concerning mounting side roll-up doors and bar joist. w fig. 7-1 Eave bracket detail showing building width w No u-channel braces on end-wall trusses joint fig. 7-2a Stud/ground rail screw placement bar joist for side roll-up door (see p. 22) fig. 7-2 Completed trusses can be stood and slid onto the welded inserts on the ground rails. Note that end trusses do not use knee braces or peak braces - 7 -

8 Completing the End Wall Frame same as ground rail Extend roof hat 9 ½ inches on full-eave models Mount sidewall hats flush with studs make same at ridge Level Rafter 2½" fig. 8-1 Once erected, end walls can be braced by clamping or screwing wood or metal braces (user furnished) on inside of corner studs as shown above. 3 pieces of hat channel (2 on sides, and 1 near peak) can now be installed to hold the trusses in place. The installation of 2 side hat channel and 1 roof hat (at the peak) will sturdy the 2½ " below top of stud. trusses while the end wall is being built. The 2 hat channel for the sides should be mounted flush with the corner studs, and the one at the peak should extend exactly 9½ inches past the end trusses at both ends for full-eave models, 3 inches for eaveless (see fig. 12-1). The distance established at the ground rail between each 2 trusses should be the same at the peak or at the eaves between those same 2 trusses, as shown in figure above. Hat channel positions are pre-marked on the studs and rafters. Once the end trusses are in place, the four corner studs should be leveled and temporary diagonal braces installed before continuing with end wall set-up (see fig. 8-1). Braces should not be removed until after panels are installed. Positions of studs on end-walls are predetermined at the Gulf Coast facility by the placement of inserts welded to the ground rails. 1. Plumb and brace all four corners of the building. 2. Locate a stud for each of the end-wall inserts (based on the height needed between the rail and rafter) and lay each in place by its insert. Studs will probably not be more than a couple inches longer than necessary, but be careful to be satisfied that all are properly identified before the first is installed. Special double studs (factory-assembled) are used on either side of every roll-up door. 3. Each stud can be properly sized to length by sliding it down onto its ground rail insert, holding it upright against the outside of the end-wall truss using a level, and marking the cutting point by tracing it along the rafter. The location of the stud can at the same time be marked on the rafter. See figs. 9-1a and 9-1b. Cutting of metal studs can best be done with a cut-off saw fitted with an appropriate blade (otherwise, a circular saw or a reciprocating saw), and should be made a little shorter (up to ¼"), but no higher than, the mark traced on it in step 3. A hand grinder is recommended for fine-tuning cuts when necessary. 4. Studs are attached to the truss using a single angle bracket with 4 frame screws at the top (see fig. 9-2a), and two frame screws through the stud and insert at the bottom (fig. 7-2a). Stud fig. 8-1a Upper sidewall hat should be attached - 8 -

9 fig 9-1a Level fig.9-1b fig. 9-1 By setting end-wall studs in position and leveling them left-to-right, the stud's position on the end-wall rafter can be marked (as shown in fig. 9-1a), and a cut-line can be traced on the stud along the end-wall rafter (see fig. 9-1c). fig.9-1c Door header placed at height of roll-up door. example: 10' for a 12 x 10 door fig. 9-2a RUD stud-truss attachment fig. 9-2b RUD header attachment 5. Roll-up door studs are installed in factory pre-assembled pairs, with the shorter stud set onto the ground rail insert (see figs. 9-1b & 9-2c). These studs (right and left side of the door) should be spaced apart at top and bottom the same width as the door header, which connects to them at the height of the roll-up door with 2 angle brackets. See fig. 9-2 at left. 6. Over-door studs should be spaced evenly along the door header and be attached at both top and bottom with angle brackets. The distance between them should not exceed 4 ft. 7. Walk door kits require cutting out and removing a portion of the ground rail as well as installation of extra tubing. See pg. 24 concerning walk doors. 8. Window kits are also addressed on page 24. fig. 9-2 Roll-up door framing. Note the use of angle brackets on studs above door, and height of header. fig. 9-2c RUD stud/ground rail attachment When all studs are in place, and window and door kits installed, the walls are ready for the remaining hat channel

10 Application of HAT CHANNEL Number of rows of wall hats as well as spacing VARIES depending on size of building. See literature that comes with your building. d d d d fig With trusses in position, hat channel should be spaced evenly up the sides and building ends (shown as distance d). Note that the Gable Rafter Hats must be cut and pieced in between any lateral hats that attach to the gable rafters. Do Sidewall Hat Channel First For steel buildings mounted on a matching slab, the bottom hat fig. 10-1a Hat channel end channel rests on the slab (see fig. 5-2), and the top sidewall hat sits 2½" flush with the corner studs. below the top of the stud, as discussed on p. 8 (see fig. 8-1a, and also fig. 11-1). Hats that fall in between should be spaced evenly (distance d in figure above), and should not exceed engineering limits (48 inch maximum). The number of levels of hats depends on the height of the building, and is shown on the Basic Layout Diagram. If sidewall purlins are interrupted by sidewall doors, the door is capped by a separate piece of hat channel. Sidewall studs may come pre-marked for hats. Hat channel installation has already begun with the top sidewall hat on p. 8. Since trusses are held in position by the hat channel, the same spacing already established by the ground rail inserts between trusses should be maintained when attaching the remaining hats to the studs. If the top sidewall hat is attached first at the same spacing as the ground rails, the rest of the hat channel can be spaced evenly between the two. Since truss spacing may vary slightly, be sure to check and maintain the spacing between each truss and its neighbor. If the building is mounted on open concrete or bare soil, the bottom of the lowest hat should be mounted level with the top of the bottom rail, but with all others spaced as if this hat was mounted at ground level. See fig. 5-3 for the position of the bottom hat channel for this application. Front and Back Walls Hats follow sides The levels of hat channel begun on the sidewalls should be continued on both front and rear end walls. If the space on the gable end above the highest sidewall hat has room, one or two more levels of hat channel will need to be trimmed and added to the gable. The same spacing that was determined for the rest of the hats should be maintained on the higher levels of the gable end (see fig above). Hats that extend into window or door openings should be cut flush with the studs

11 The five possibilities of types of hat channel on an end-wall are: at 1 Hat channel precut to bump a roll-up door er H Raft 2 Full width hat channel hat Roof 3 Hat channel that goes over a roll-up door only, or over a walk door. Eave 4 Gable hat channel that is higher than the 2½" Bracket eave and goes from one end-wall rafter to the other. Sidewall End-wall hat 5 Rafter hat channel to be cut by the installer. hat These are inserted between gable hats and follow the rafters. Again, consult fig. Stud The end-wall rafter hat channel consists of hats fig The highest hat channel on the sidewall should be cut to lengths to fit between any of the regular hat mounted 2½ " from the top of the stud, and the rafter hat should not extend past the stud. The lowest roof hat should be channel that cross the gable at rafter level. They mounted flush with the ends of the rafters. should be attached with one leg of the hat on the stud, the other on the end wall rafter. The piece installed closest to the eave should not extend past the end of the gable end stud (see fig. 11-1). Roof Hat Channel Roof hat channel mounting locations come pre-marked on the rafters. As with the side hat channel, roof hats determine the truss spacing, and the same truss spacing that was established at the ground rail should be maintained across the roof by the hat channel. Hat channel should extend 9½" beyond the end trusses at either end for buildings with eaves, and 3 Eave inches ches on eaveless models (both shown in fig. 12-1). Bracket Stud fig The lowest roof hats mount even with the end of the rafters. fig Installed roof hats Peak Bracket

12 Hat channel on gable truss only Hat Channel 9½" End Wall Rafter Eave Bracket 3" End wall panel End Wall Stud end-wall rafter hat channel Eaveless model fig Roof hat channel should extend 9½" past the endwall rafter on buildings with eaves, and 3" past on eaveless buildings, as shown in inset. Trims Installed Ahead of Panels Eave trim (with corner box). Eave trim Stud Outside closure Eaveless model fig Eave trim hides the lower roof purlins and the ends of the rafters. On models with eaves it attaches to the lower roof hat and upper sidewall hat and is held in place by occasional pancake screws until the roof panels are installed. On eaveless models, it is surface mounted to the sidewall panels. Eave Trim Eave trim hides the lower roof purlins and the ends of the rafters, and must be installed prior to panel installation. On buildings with eaves, it attaches to the lower roof hat on the top side, and to the upper wall hat on the bottom side, and can be held in place with occasional pancake screws until panels are installed (see fig. 12-1). See fig. 12-1, inset, for eaveless buildings. Eave trim consists of a specially-folded eave box at each end of the eave, plus enough regular pieces to fit between the two boxes. Installation should begin by hanging one of these end boxes on the lowest roof hat channel, with bottom level with itself, with the end of the box extending exactly 10¼" past the rafter (see fig. 12-3). Additional eave trim (without the folded end) can then be laid down to where they join the 10¼" eave box at the far end, lapping each piece 3 to 4 inches. One piece will probably need to be cut, and if only a short amount of it is needed, the cut-off may need to be saved for the other side. See also fig for finished view. Eaveless buildings use a conventional style eave drip. These attach to the panel ribs on the bottom side with occasional lap screws, and are applied after the side panels, but before the roof panels. If outside fig The eave corner box is the basis for joining the gable trim to the closures are to be used, they are installed eave trim, and is installed ahead of panels. It comes pre-formed and ready to install (shown here after wall panels are installed). with the trim. See inset in fig

13 Base Trim fig Base trim can first be attached to the hat channel with an occasional pancake screw, then finished off with panel screws. Before siding panels can be installed, base trim must be applied around the perimeter of the building. Base trim should be attached to the lower purlin, with the shelf of the trim level with the slab, and the skirt of the trim against the side of the slab (see figs. 5-2 and 13-1). It should begin and end even with the slab corners and with the sides of any and all doors. Each piece of base trim should lap the previously laid piece by 3 or 4 inches, and can be held in place by one or two pancake self-drilling screws until Roll-up Door it is overlaid with the panels Track C-Channel and panel screws. Roll-up Door Face Trim Roll-up door openings are capped with c-channel and trimmed on the panel side with j-channel. C-channel attached with pancake screws on the inside of the door opening will stay in place while the j-channel is applied over it from the outside, which can likewise be held in place by pancakes until the panels are added. The overhead portion of the door is capped in a similar way. See fig at right. Trimming and fitting together j-channel corners is shown on p. 25. Walk doors and windows are faced with just j-channel, and are discussed further on p. 24. pancake screws Door post (double stud) Hat Channel D o o r w a y panel J-Channel fig Cross section of door posts showing trims held with pancake screws. See p. 25 for instructions on trimming the j-channel. Insulation Foil insulation is a common option and recommended to make the building bearable during warm weather. The side with the aluminum foil is put to the outside of the building, with the white poly side to the inside. Insulation is stretched over the hat channel Front just ahead of each panel, and is held in place by double-stick tape applied to the hat channel at top and bottom. The panel is then screwed in place, followed by more insulation, then the next panel, and so on. Seam tape should be applied to the white side of the insulation as each insulation strip is hung, in a similar way to that shown in fig for the roof. Roof insulation is applied in a similar manner. Neither is best applied on windy days, especially the roof insulation. fig Insulation should be cut to length and the seams taped as it is installed ahead of the panels

14 Installing Sidewall Panels Each side wall, end wall, and either side of the roof may be done independently from the rest. Unless roll-up doors are involved, all sidewall panels will be the same length (see special note if roll-up doors are involved on the side). The first sidewall panel should be installed at whichever end of the building is designated the rear, with the over-lap side of the panel nearest the corner (see diagram at right). Panels should be squarely set one at a time with a slight gap above the base trim, falling just short of the eave trim at the top, with the over-lap rib nestled over the under-lap of each previous panel (as in fig below) as it is screwed in place. Note screw pattern in fig Rear overlap rib fig Begin installing sidewall panels from the rear end of building. If side doors are involved, lay out and establish the location of each panel, since different lengths will be involved that go over the doors. Full-length panels that partly go over a door should be measured and cut to fit before installation. purlin-bearing leg of underlap rib fig Panel lap detail. Note difference in underlap and overlap ribs of the panel. Cutting Panels to Width fig Use a utility knife to score and break the panel. The last panel on an end or side will most likely need to be cut. The panel can be firmly scored along a straight edge with a utility knife down its entire length, folded back over (away from the cut), and bent back again to break it. If it does not fold fairly easily, the score may need to be made deeper. This same procedure also applies cut-outs for doors or windows. For these, cut across the ribs first with snips, nibbler, or other suitable tool, then score only the portion to be removed, and bend and break as described above. Installing End-wall Panels Any insulation must be applied as described for sidewall insulation, just ahead of the panels. End-wall panels should be pre-arranged on the ground in the order they are to occupy on the endwall. Once they are arranged, installation begins with the panel closest to the left hand side of the wall as viewed from the outside of the building. Panels will need to be cut to length diagonally to fit into place on the endwall, forming a low and a high side on each panel. Beginning on the left hand side, facing the outside gable end of the building,

15 Corner trim fig Once hat channel, base drip, and j-channel are applied, the end wall is ready for insulation and panels. Panel positions should be anticipated ahead of time, and panels located and laid out in order of installation. Consult figs and 16-1 concerning insulation. the low side of the first panel will be the distance from the bottom of the ground rail, up the corner stud, to the top side of the rafter. The high side will always be 12 inches more than the low side. The cut line is best marked or chalked on the back side of the panel. The cut length must not exceed the height of the rafter, but can be as much as 1½ in. shorter. This diagonal cut (and any cross-cuts) can be made with either hand snips, a nibbler, or a circular saw with appropriate blade. Imperfections in the cut will be hidden by the gable trim. Panels can be cut and attached from left to right as they are cut to size, with care being taken at the door (if there is one) or any windows to allow the panels to fit fairly closely into the j-channel that trims the openings (see pgs.13 and 25) Corner Trim Corner trim can be added after wall panels are installed. If side walls are over 10 ft. in height, corners will need to be pieced; if less, shortening with snips may be needed. The corner sits directly on the base trim, and its upper end bumps the eave trim, and is covered by the gable trim. Where possible, corners should be attached through panels into purlins with regular panel screws (self-drilling, not laps), with lap screws used only where no purlin is available. Screw spacing should be about every 2 ft. fig The top end of the corner trim bumps up against the eave gable box (not shown), and is hidden by the gable trim on the end wall

16 installation direction white side to inside of building seam tape silver side up double-stick tape fig Seam tape (applied to the white, inside of the insulation) bonds each new piece of insulation to the previous. Double-stick tape holds the insulation in place until the panel is attached. Insulation If insulation is to be used, it should be cut into pieces and laid one piece at a time ahead of the panels, as described on page 13. Seaming between the insulation pieces can be accomplished by folding each piece back over on top of the previous panel, laying out the next piece to be applied, and applying seam tape to the joint (see drawing above). This should provide enough insulation for the application of the next panel or two, and then repeat the process. If skylights are involved, insulation can be trimmed out from the underneath side after the panels are installed. Precautions such as using wind-free days, getting extra help, and applying panels immediately after insulation can help to overcome some application problems. Roof Panels Since all roof panels are the same length, the only consideration for differences in length will be when skylight panels are to be installed (see pg. 18). If insulation is to be installed, consult the section titled Insulation above before applying panels. The starter panel should be placed at one end of the roof no further than 1 inch from the ends of the hat channel (It should not extend past the ends of the hat channel see fig. 17-2). Care should be taken that this first panel is lined up with the end wall rafter (square with eave trim inside closure hat rafter fig Optional inside closures seal the panels at the eave. They go on top of the insulation in insulated buildings. the building, equal distance from rafter at top and bottom). At the lowest part of the panel, the drip edge of the panel should extend about 1 inch beyond the eave trim. Subsequent panels should maintain this oneinch measurement beyond the eave trim, and the distance from the first panel to each added panel should be the same top and bottom. The final panel may need to be trimmed to approximately the end of the hat channel at the far end of the roof. See Cutting Panels to Width on p

17 Gable trim cutout Eave box Corner fig The finished corner, showing eave (installed before panels) and gable components above and to the right. installation direction Ridge Eave shown without trim Underlap side fig Whether the Tuff-Rib or the PBR panel, screws at panel laps should be applied along the overlap rib only, and on the same side of the remaining middle ribs. Screws along both eave and ridge should be applied on either side of every rib. Eave

18 Skylights If the building is to have skylights, each skylight panel will most likely be installed between an upper and a lower steel panel. A full-length panel will need to be cut cross-wise so that the lower piece will extend about an inch above one of the purlins, and the upper piece an inch below a purlin (a scrap the size of the skylight window will be left). This will allow about a 3-inch skylight/panel overlap at the bottom, and for the skylight to either be slid up under the upper panel, or trimmed off, at the top. The lapped joint at both top and bottom between each skylight and the steel panels uses roof screws, with oversized washers added, on both sides of each rib and one in the middle, with a double bead of butyl sealant applied across the lap (as shown in fig below). Butyl tape should be close to the visible bottom edge of each lap so as to prevent water being trapped in the joint, and to the hidden upper side of the lap to prevent condensation from running down and filling the lap. A reinforcing rib is provided to strengthen the skylight panel on the underlap side of the panel. This rib should be slipped under the skylight before adjacent screws are applied. Oversized washers are provided to add to the screws that penetrate directly into skylights. The entry holes for these screws (in the skylight panel only) should be pre-drilled with a 5/16" or 3/8" bit. This will help to keep the screws from cracking the skylights at the point of entry. Self-drilling screw skylight panel Skylight lap metal panel ¾" washer butyl sealant skylight steel panel butyl sealant hat rafter fig Skylight-panel lap detail showing application of butyl sealant. ¾" washer added 5/16 to 3/8 hole pre-drilled reinforcing strip fig Skylight-panel lap detail showing reinforcing strip. steel panel skylight steel panel Ridge full-length steel panel Skylight lap Reinforcing strip Eave fig A reinforcing rib should be placed under the under-lap side of the skylight. Skylight panels must be pre-drilled with a 5/16" to 3/8" bit and a ¾" washer added to all screws that directly penetrate the skylight to reduce risk of cracking. Note that extra fasteners are applied at the skylight/panel lap, as well as a double bead of butyl sealant

19 Fitting Gable Trim Among the last things to be done is the addition of the gable trim, ridge caps, and peak boxes. To fit around the corner box, 9½" of the bottom side of the gable trim must be removed using sheet metal snips as shown in fig at right. The lower corner of the gable trim should reach approximately to the lower outside corner of the eave box, and come even with the lower ends of the panels. Butyl sealant should be used where the "foot" of the gable trim sits on the roof panel (see below). If a complete seal is required, the optional expanding foam (or beveled closure) can be stuck to the lower flange of the trim to seal the area where it meets the side panel ribs. Additional gable trim is added toward the peak, with the final piece cut to meet the gable trim from the other side. The joint where the trims from opposite sides meet is hidden by the peak box (see pg. 20). Self-drilling screws attach the trim through the panel into hat channel on the top, and lap screws should be used every other rib on the gable wall. Additional lap screws should be inserted midway between the self drillers on the roof side. 9½" fig Removal of part of the gable trim allows it to fit together with the eave trim. scrap Butyl sealant fig Eaveless LX Building models use a conventional style eave drip and rake. fig The corner of the extended eave model has a boxed look

20 bend down ¾" fig Trimming the end of the ridge cap and bending down the two tabs as shown will give it a finished look. fig Ridge caps are attached with lap screws to each panel rib. Solid closures (right) are the standard, with vented closures (left) as an option. Ridge Caps Ridge caps cover the highest point of the roof, and are sealed with either solid (standard) or vented closures (optional). They are centered over the peak, and extend slightly past the peak box at each end, fastened to the ribs through the closure with lap screws (as shown in fig. 20-1). Each ridge cap should overlap its neighbor by about 6 inches, and the joint sealed with butyl tape. Peak Box A peak box caps the joint between the left and right gable rakes at each end of the roof. It fits under the ridge cap, and attaches to the rakes with lap screws. fig The peak box trims out the upper end of the gable trim. A piece of outside closure can be used to seal the end (see also fig. 37)

21 Roll-up Doors In addition to the trim already discussed, roll-up doors require the mounting of 2 tracks, door mounting brackets, chain kits and their mounting brackets (for chain-driven doors), and head stops. These items are discussed in the door manufacturer s instruction sheet. The roll-up door kit from the door manufacturer has been modified at Gulf Coast by the addition of 3 x 3 angle iron to the mounting brackets to adapt them to the LX Building. The added brackets attach to the sides of the door frame studs as shown in fig below using 8 frame screws, or as shown in fig for sidewall doors. The height of the brackets and other mounting information is the same as that described in the door manufacturer's instruction sheet. chain hoist mounting bracket Side view Roll-up Door Track C-Channel 8 screws Hat Channel Door post (double stud) D o o r w a y panel J-Channel fig The modified door mounting bracket and roll-up door track should be positioned as shown above. 4 bolts attach the chain hoist to mounting brackets. (as viewed from below) fig The chain hoist is mounted on the left of the door, as shown in the upper photo above

22 Roll-up Doors in the Side Wall The Basic Layout Diagram that accompanies the LX Building will identify the location of doors and windows. A gap in the ground rail of the sidewall indicates the position of a roll-up door (walk doors do not come with a gap in the ground rail see p. 24). Each sidewall roll-up door utilizes a bar joist (fig.23-1) over the door in the place of one or more regular studs, bolted on each end to a truss (as shown in figs. 22-1a and 22-1c). The bar joist will always span an area wider than the actual door, and always bolts to a truss at either end. Roll-up doors always have a factory-assembled double stud on each side of the door itself, which will either be (1) a door stud paired with a standard stud, or (2) a door stud paired with a shorter support stud. Double studs only come next to doors (note that double studs always have one member that fits onto a ground-rail insert, and one member that reaches the slab). When the double stud is the same length as the single sidewall studs, it assembles as part of a truss (see pgs. 6-7). When the double stud is the height of a door, it attaches with brackets to the underside of the bar joist. See diagram below to view the 2 door types, and all items discussed above. fig. 22-1a Bar joist against truss, door not involved. fig. 22-1b Bar joist support stud with roll-up door stud. see fig. 22-1a see fig. 22-1b Standard stud Roll-up Door fig. 22-1c Bar joist when door mounts against truss. Door-frame stud Ground rail island see fig. 22-1d fig. 22-1d Double stud at ground rail fig Doors will either mount in the center of an opening (above) or against a stud (right)

23 In some cases a bar joist spans 2 or more doors. In either case, whether two single or one long bar joist, there will be a ground rail "island" formed between the 2 doors. Care should be taken that this isolated ground rail is properly aligned with the rest of the wall, and that the spaces formed are the same as the roll-up doors to be mounted Roll-up door mounting brackets are specially modified to mount on the side of the double door stud and to the face of the bar joist. Any special instruction for their assembly will be included with the kit assembly literature. Truss Roll-up door Bar Joist Chain hoist fig Inserts welded to the bar joist continue the truss spacing already established on the ground rails. fig Roll-up door mounting brackets mount to both the double stud and bar joist. RU door stud w/ standard stud Standard stud Attachment? see fig. 22-1c Roll-up Door Support stud Roll-up door stud When a roll-up mounts hard against a standard stud, the stud will be a double stud, with a support stud for the bar joist RU door stud w/ support stud

24 Walk Door Kits Besides the walk door and its frame, a walk door kit consists of a horizontal member to span between 2 trusses, a vertical member to form the side of the doorway, and angle brackets and screws used to attach them. The installer should not place a wedge anchor in the place he intends to install a walk door. If door installation leaves a portion of the ground rail more than 2 feet from an anchor, a new hole should be drilled for an anchor next to the door opening. Once the kit frame is installed, the ground rail can be cut out with a reciprocating saw and removed, and the door installed. J-channel will need to be installed around the opening ahead of panels (see p. 25), and panels will need to be trimmed for the opening as described on p. 14. Window Kits The window kit is similar to the door kit, but consists of 2 horizontal tubing pieces (top and bottom of the window) and a short vertical piece (the height of the window). It is inserted between trusses and has no effect on other members. It also requires j-channel trim. Door Kit Window Kit window opening Additional anchor may be needed here. fig Once the door kit frame is finished (left), the base trim, door, and j-channel can be mounted in preparation for the panels. The window kit (right) has no effect on ground rails or base trim

25 peak brace fig Reinforced rafters come with steel buildings that are over 34 ft. wide. They are assembled into trusses in the same manner as described on p. 6, but note that the peak and knee braces are attached to the reinforcing member instead of the rafter. knee brace top fig side fig figs to 5 To form window and door trim corners, cut j-channel, remove scraps, and bend upper corner as shown at left, lower corner as shown below left. Assembled corners are shown to the right of each side bottom fig fig

26 Gutters and Downspouts Gutters for the LX Building mount over the eave trim. The mounting flange rests on top of the eave trim flange, the two being held in place by occasional pancake screws until the roof panel is secured with the roof screws. Finishing up the installation are the gutter hangers, which fit under the outer lip of the gutter and secure at the panel rib with lap screws. See drawings below. Downspouts are connected to the gutter by cutting an "X" the size of the downspout in the bottom of the gutter, bending the tabs down into the inside of the downspout, and securing the joint with caulk and lap screws. Downspouts are fastened to the side of the building with u-shaped hangers. On the eaveless model, the eave drip is eliminated altogether, and the gutter put in its place. Hanger Eave Bracket Gutter Downspout Stud fig Gutter components consist of gutters, hangers, end caps, and downspouts. fig On eaveless buildings, eave drip is replaced by the gutter. Hanger Eave Bracket Gutter Eave trim Stud Downspout fig Gutters mount over the eave trim and are supported by special hangers. fig Downspout hangers mount near top and bottom of downspouts

27 - 27 -

28 Ridge cap Peak box Gable trim Gutter or Eave trim C-channel Downspout Base drip fig LX Buildings can have up to 3 roll-up doors in an end wall J-channel Eave trim Ridge cap Peak box Gable trim Gutter (optional) Corner fig A simple layout with one roll-up door