UNIT 4: SHEATHING AND SHINGLING THE ROOF

Transcription

1 KEY CONCEPTS 1. Identify tools needed for roofing 2. Steps to finishing a roof 3. Maintenance of a roof 4. Safety while roofing INSTRUCTIONAL ACTIVITIES 1. Complete Follow Up Worksheet from Unit 3 2. Roof Trusses Identify new tools and materials used 3. Discuss all components: Sheathing, felt, drip edge, shingles 4. Identify and discuss different types of shingles and their installation 5. Discuss roof venting and its purpose 6. Roof maintenance 7. Safety practices while roofing including ladder and scaffolding safety 8. Summarize key learning points ASSESS LEARNING OF KEY CONCEPTS Students will list proper order of roofing steps. Students will demonstrate proper placement and nailing pattern of shingles. 1

2 TOOLS USED E F C A D B A. Hammer D. Chalk Line B. Utility Knife E. Ladder C. Tape Measure F. Stapler MATERIALS USED Shown Not Shown A. Architectural Shingles D. Plywood H clips B. Felt Paper E. Drip Edge C. Sheathing F. 8d nails G. Roofing layout tape H. Roofing nails 2

3 SHEATHING THE ROOF 1. Begin by snapping a chalk line 48½" from the outside of the 2x6 fascia board that is nailed to the bottom end of the trusses. This is the top of the first row of plywood. 2. On a full hip roof, you may precut the angle of the sheet on the ground with the assistance of the task leader, or you can cut off the extra plywood after snapping a chalk line down the center of the hip. Either way, this will allow us to have plywood sheets break on different trusses on successive rows. If we plan ahead and are aware of the cutoff sheets, we can avoid wasting very much. It is important that the stamping that is on the plywood sheets all be going perpendicular to the trusses. (3' 8 3 /8" from bottom left to top left, for a 5/12 pitch.) 3. When laying the first row of plywood, make sure to nail the sheet on the chalk line and in the center of the truss where the sheet ends. Make sure that the sheet has at least 3 /8" bearing on a truss. You may need to trim a sheet or add a 2x4 to the side of a truss. Please take the time to measure over every 24" and put a mark on the sheet of plywood that shows where the middle of the truss is supposed to be and nail with 8d nails. This measuring will keep the trusses straight and makes the following rows easier to put on without cutting sheets or adding 2x4s. 4. Once the first two rows have been laid, a team of 4-5 people can begin nailing the sheets down with the 8d (2½") nails. 9 nails are needed on the seams and 5 nails are needed in the field. This will allow you to have a pattern that has nails every 6" on the seams and 12" in the field. The first row of plywood needs to be nailed to the 2x6 fascia every 6" as well as into the hip. Helpful Hints Marking the center of the trusses as you lay the plywood makes it easy for the people coming behind nailing it off. You never know, it may be your job to nail off!!! MAKE SURE TO PUT THE ROUGH SIDE OF THE PYLWOOD UP! PEOPLE WILL FALL OFF THE ROOF IF THE SMOOTH SIDE OF THE PLYWOOD IS UP. 3

4 SHINGLING THE ROOF 1. Install the galvanized drip edge metal along the edge of the roof and attach with roofing nails. Overlap metal 3". 2. Roll out and attach tarpaper flush with the bottom of the metal. 3. If this is a gable roof: After tarpapering the entire roof, attach the galvanized gable edge metal on top of the tarpaper with roofing nails. Overlap metal 3". 4. Attach roofing layout tape on top of the tarpaper. Snap chalk lines at every chosen icon. 5. Cut the tabs off three tab shingles to create starter shingles. Lay one entire row of these shingles upsidedown the length of the building with the tar strip up. Nail every 10 inches making sure the nails are at least 3" up from the bottom of the shingle. The shingle should extend over the metal 1" off the bottom and the sides. Use the chalk line to make sure the first row of shingles is straight. 6. When using architectural shingles, there is a shadow line on the shingle that is 5⅝" from the bottom of the shingle. This is where the bottom of the next row of shingle goes. The top of the shingles goes on the chalk lines. It is very important to keep the rows of shingles straight. There is also a nailing zone that shows where the nails should be every 10" which is 5 roofing nails per shingle. 4

5 Install one roofing nail starting at one end of the shingle ¾" to 1¼" from the butt edge and in The Zone. Install another roofing nail similar to the first one, but on the opposite end of the single. Install a third roofing nail in the center of the shingle and in The Zone. Install two more nails evenly spaced and in The Zone. 7. When the entire roof is shingled the ridge will need to be capped. Use ridge shingles or cut three tab shingles into three pieces. Snap a chalk line half the width of the shingle at each end of the ridge and use this to guide the placement of the ridge shingles. Overlap the shingles so that they are being nailed twice (just like regular shingles). Start the ridge at the south or west end of the roof. 8. Attach hurricane clips wherever a truss lands on the top plate. Be sure they are nailed so that there are nails in each of the two top plates. Make sure there is a nail in every nail hole. 9. After shingles are laid the cardboard insulation baffles can be attached with staples, according to the diagram below. 5

6 SHINGLING AROUND ROOF PENETRATIONS AND INSTALLING ROOF VENTS When the row of shingles reaches the penetration, the flange is set in place. The shingles are cut with a pair of tin snips. (This shingle was laid over top just for purposes of measuring.) The first row of cut shingles is nailed in place. The flange goes over top of these shingles. The next row of shingles is cut to fit around the dome of the flange. This row of shingles goes over top of the flange. In essence, the flange acts like a shingle itself... it lays on top of the shingles below it, and underneath the shingles above, maintaining the drainage plane created by the shingles. Another row of shingles is installed. Some roofers prefer to fill in the black plastic space below the dome. My belief is that putting shingles there only slows down the flow of water and might contribute to a leak someday. I'd sooner leave the area below the dome free and clear so water can exit quickly. The completed flange in a roof full of shingles is shown at left. 6

7 ROOFING SAFETY ISSUES 1. This is a hard hat day! 2. Do not climb higher than you are comfortable. There are many jobs to do at ground level. 3. Be very cautious on ladders and scaffolding. Alert a site supervisor of any unsafe or unsuitable conditions. 4. If you are on the roof, do not step on loose materials. Sawdust or loose shingles on roof can be dangerous and can cause you to fall if you step on them. Test your footing if the roof is damp. Do not back up or walk backwards. YOU MUST WATCH WHERE YOU ARE GOING. 5. Roofing shingles are heavy. Do not lift more than you can comfortably handle. 6. If the weather is hot, drink plenty of fluids and take frequent breaks. 7. Do not throw tools or materials from the roof. 8. Do not set your tools down on the roof they will slide off! ROOFING MAINTENANCE 1. Visually inspect the roof for signs of wear, holes, missing shingles, or the growth of moss at least twice a year. 2. Look in the attic with a strong flashlight for signs of water leaks or staining on the underside of the roof sheathing. 7

8 FOLLOW ALONG WORKSHEET Please use the area below to take notes about the major subject headings listed. NEW TOOLS: STEPS TO ROOFING: MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUES PARTICULAR TO THIS UNIT: ADDITIONAL NOTES: 8

9 FOLLOW UP WORKSHEET From the choices below, list in order, the steps to roofing a house Set trusses Install hurricane clips Lay felt paper Attach drip edge Attach fascia Shingle Lay sheathing Ridge Caps NAME 3 THINGS TO LOOK FOR WHEN MAINTAINING YOUR ROOF Choose one safety precaution particular to this unit that you can implement either on the job site or in your home. In the area below describe why this precaution is necessary to ensure safety. 9