MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTOR AWARD CANDIDATE HANDBOOK

Transcription

1 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTOR AWARD CANDIDATE HANDBOOK 1

2 MOUNTAIN TRAINING PREFACE This booklet contains all the information needed to progress through the Mountaineering Instructor Award scheme. It is designed to support the knowledge and experience of candidates, trainers and assessors whilst at the same time avoiding prescribed techniques. There are many technical manuals for climbers and mountaineers that illustrate the range of evolving techniques used by instructors; these notes are designed to complement such literature (see Appendix 2). This handbook is divided into three parts: Information about the scheme from registration to assessment. A syllabus that lists the skills of a Mountaineering Instructor with guidance notes that help advise candidates and their trainers and assessors of protocols and procedures. Appendices that provide background information. PARTICIPATION STATEMENT Mountain Training recognises that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions. Mountain Training provides training and assessment courses and associated literature to help leaders manage these risks and to enable new participants to have positive experiences while learning about their responsibilities. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Many people have contributed to the preparation of this handbook by attending MTUK working party meetings and by making detailed and constructive comments on the draft. Grateful thanks are due to Board members, staff of the National Centres and home nation Training Boards and the Association of Mountaineering Instructors for help in the production of this publication. Published by Mountain Training UK Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, LL24 0ES Tel: info@mountain-training.org Website: Mountain Training UK Revised September 2014 All rights reserved Design by Rock Solid: 2

3 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG CONTENTS THE SCHEME 1 Introduction 2 Scope of the Scheme 3 Stages in the Scheme 4 Registration 5 Training 6 Consolidation Period 7 First Aid Requirements 8 Assessment 9 Reassessment 10 Complaints and appeals procedure SYLLABUS & GUIDANCE NOTES 1 Personal Summer Mountaineering 2 Summer Mountaineering Instruction 3 Rock Climbing Instruction 4 Problem Solving and Rescue Skills 5 National Awards and Local Accreditation Schemes 6 The Mountain Environment 7 Development and History of Mountaineering 8 Assessment of Risk and its Application Additional Guidance APPENDICES 1 Definitions 2 Suggested Reading List 3 Course Programmes 4 Mountain Training UK 5 Suggested model for teaching in mountain environments 6 Mountain Training awards pathway 3

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5 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG THE SCHEME 1 INTRODUCTION The Mountaineering Instructor Award (MIA) scheme provides comprehensive training and assessment for individuals working as instructors in mountaineering activities, including multi-pitch climbing. It is designed for the specific situations and conditions found in the UK and it integrates training, experience and assessment in a variety of testing situations. The Mountaineering Instructor Certificate (MIC) is a separate qualification that is gained after the MIA and is focused on the instruction of winter climbing and mountaineering. 2 SCOPE OF THE SCHEME The scheme provides training and assessment in the skills required to teach, train and assess general mountaineering, rock climbing and related activities. The syllabus includes multi-pitch rock climbing, scrambling and other mountaineering skills. Also included are elements of training and assessment that are necessary for those directing and working on Mountain Training s entry level schemes. The Mountaineering Instructor Award scheme is designed specifically for conditions encountered within the United Kingdom and Ireland. There is an opportunity for Mountaineering Instructors to work overseas, subject to further training, a qualifying period of two years and within a set of terrain-specific definitions. For further information contact the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI). 3 STAGES IN THE SCHEME The scheme consists of the following stages: obtain Mountain Leader award and appropriate post-mountain Leader experience complete DLOG with relevant experience including reference register for Mountaineering Instructor Award and have your registration approved attend MIA Training Course gain further experience during a consolidation period pass MIA Assessment Course 4 MIA REGISTRATION Applicants must: 4.1 Have successfully completed the Mountain Leader award. 4.2 Have completed 20 quality mountain days as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability group. These days should be undertaken after completion of the Mountain Leader assessment. 4.3 Have substantial climbing experience and provide a list of 30 named multi-pitch rock climbs in at least three main climbing areas of the UK. These must be climbs which the candidate has completed leading at least the crux pitch, which must be VS 4c standard or above. These routes should illustrate the applicant s breadth of climbing experience. 4.4 Have personal experience of leading 10 sport climbs at 6a or above on natural rock (not necessarily in the 5

6 MOUNTAIN TRAINING UK) and also on at least one artificial wall. 4.5 Provide a reference from someone who is prepared to endorse the registration application, preferably a Mountaineering Instructor, Guide or training board approved provider. A long term climbing partner or suitable employer would also be considered as an appropriate referee. As with all Mountain Training qualifications, these are the minimum requirements. As a general indication, the logged experience should be a representative sample rather than a candidate s total experience. Candidates who have only the bare minimum of experience will find the training and assessment less worthwhile than candidates who have a broader and more extensive mountaineering background. Most MIA trainees have completed training and/or assessment for the Single Pitch Award. While this is not a requirement for registration, candidates who have not entered the SPA scheme should make sure they familiarise themselves with its content. Applications may be further strengthened by including details of other relevant mountaineering experience logged in other sections of DLOG. For example, experience as a winter climber or alpinist and details of long, easier climbs ascended in big boots or poor conditions might be relevant. THE REFEREE The referee should be able to endorse the candidate s suitability as a potential Mountaineering Instructor and vouch for the accuracy of the application. It is therefore vitally important that potential referees have an overview of the climbing and work experience of an applicant. 6

7 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG ROCK CLIMBING EXPERIENCE AT REGISTRATION The Mountaineering Instructor Award scheme is UK and Ireland orientated and the experience recorded should reflect this. While experience gained trekking or climbing in the High Atlas Mountains, for example, is undoubtedly valuable, it is not necessarily the most appropriate experience for the scheme. The Board is looking for both depth and breadth of experience since candidates who have only the minimum experience are unlikely to benefit fully from either the training or assessment course. In general terms, successful applicants will have climbed at least 100 multi-pitch routes of which the 30 listed will be a representative sample (these should be highlighted in your log book). Candidates should bear in mind that the 30 routes must be multi-pitch (described as such in the guidebook and climbed as such) and must be at least VS 4c. As a very general rule, at least two-thirds of the routes should fall into the mountain/major sea cliff category. Moss Ghyll Grooves, Dream of White Horses and The Clean Sweep are examples of the type of route expected rather than short, contrived climbs that may be more technically difficult, for example, Merlin Direct at Tremadog. 5 MIA TRAINING In order to attend an MIA training course, candidates must first have their application for registration approved by Mountain Training UK. Providers will not accept bookings for an MIA training course unless candidates are registered with Mountain Training UK for this scheme. Currently there are three providers of MIA training approved by Mountain Training: Glenmore Lodge, Plas y Brenin and Tollymore. The board are keen to support appropriate course programmes from their providers. Currently courses are delivered in a continuous nine day block or split into two five day blocks. Course dates are available from Mountain Training and from the providers directly (see Appendix 4C - National Mountain Centres). At the end of the training course feedback and advice on consolidation will be given individually. In order to assist this process, candidates must make sure their DLOG is accurate and up to date at the start of the course. Some aspects of the syllabus may not be covered during the training course and candidates are expected to deal with these items themselves. The training course includes knowledge and skills not assessed on the final course. For this reason there is no exemption from training. 7

8 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 6 CONSOLIDATION PERIOD During the period between training and assessment candidates are expected to consolidate their experience and evaluate their skills and techniques. The consolidation period will normally be a minimum of 12 months. The minimum requirements during this period are: quality mountain days as a leader in sole charge of a mixed ability group rock climbing teaching days with students multi-pitch climbs at VS 4c or above, a large proportion of which should be on mountain crags and major sea cliffs 6.4 A valid first aid certificate 6.5 A broad working knowledge of all aspects of the mountains and mountaineering, including the environment and mountaineering history, ethics and traditions. In exceptional circumstances, a reduction in the consolidation period is possible for very experienced candidates, who can demonstrate considerable experience prior to the training course. Under no circumstances will candidates be allowed to progress from training to assessment in less than three months. 7 FIRST AID REQUIREMENTS For the Mountaineering Instructor, first aid is an essential skill and the MIA assessment requires a current first aid qualification. The minimum requirement is that such a course must involve at least two full days or 16 hours of instruction and include an element of assessment. Candidates are further expected to undertake such additional elements of first aid training as are consistent with their work in wild and remote country, including emergency assistance and evacuation techniques. It is the responsibility of award holders and/or their employers to evaluate their likely work and the type of situations that they can reasonably expect to encounter and to maintain current appropriate first aid training and qualifications. 8 MIA ASSESSMENT 8

9 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG Candidates must be familiar with all aspects of the syllabus before assessment. The assessment course lasts for five days. A panel of at least three assessors (including the course director) will be involved in deciding each candidate s result. At the end of the course the course director will record the outcome on CMS in one of three ways: PASS: awarded where the candidate has demonstrated a proper knowledge and application of the course syllabus and has shown the necessary experience and attributes for mountaineering instruction. DEFER: awarded where the candidate has generally performed well and shown the necessary experience and attributes but where complete proficiency has not been attained. Recommendations for further experience will be given and recorded in CMS, along with details of the proposed re-assessment. FAIL: awarded where the candidate s performance has been generally weak, or the necessary experience and attributes have not been shown. 9 REASSESSMENT Reassessments cannot be more than two days in length and cannot take place within three months of the previous assessment. A candidate may take two reassessments before being required to take the entire assessment course again. Since the reassessment will be based on information gained during the initial assessment, all reassessments should be completed within a five year period. 9

10 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 10 COMPLAINTS AND APPEALS PROCEDURE If you would like to give feedback about a course, complain or appeal a result you should: make contact with the course director, explain your concerns and seek clarification. if this does not resolve your concerns, contact the Chief Executive Officer of MTUK. The decision of the Board will be final. The MIA scheme is subject to continuous monitoring, culminating in periodic reviews. 10

11 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG SYLLABUS & GUIDANCE NOTES Holders of the Mountaineering Instructor Award need a wide range of skills and knowledge in order to operate effectively. Not only is it necessary to perform each element in isolation, it is also vital that instructors are able to combine many skills at any one time. 1 Personal Summer Mountaineering 2 Summer Mountaineering Instruction 3 Rock Climbing Instruction 4 Problem Solving and Rescue Skills 5 National Awards and Local Accreditation Schemes 6 The Mountain Environment 7 Development and History of Mountaineering 8 Assessment of Risk and its Application 11

12 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 1 PERSONAL SUMMER MOUNTAINEERING SYLLABUS 1.1 Lead multi-pitch rock climbs of VS 4c in a safe, competent and assured manner. 1.2 Demonstrate knowledge and use of a wide range of mountaineering/rock climbing equipment. 1.3 Navigate with speed and efficiency in all conditions. 1.4 Demonstrate efficient movement over all types of mountain terrain. GUIDANCE Mountaineering Instructors work in a wide variety of environments and this demands experience in comparable situations. Therefore, developing confidence in moving safely on a variety of terrain including, for example, greasy boulders, steep grassy slopes, boulder fields and enclosed gullies is essential. From this confidence comes the ability to attend to the individual needs of party members and to re-evaluate risk continually. By modern standards, climbs graded VS 4c are a relatively straightforward proposition in good conditions. Beginners often aspire to climb this grade quite soon in their careers. However, the ability to cruise at this grade, placing protection with regard for the educational potential of a particular choice of runner, safeguarding the student or avoiding restricting their progress through a crux sequence, requires plenty in reserve. Confidence in one s ability to perform well at this grade is required. In addition to hill walking and multi-pitch climbing, personal experience in the following is very valuable: Sea-level traversing and similar combined water and rock activities Graded scrambles or scrambling on equivalent terrain Ropes courses, both high and low level Multi-pitch abseils, particularly unplanned retreats Ghyll scrambles and gorge walks Leading routes in climbing walls and on sports climbs 12

13 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG SUMMER MOUNTAINEERING INSTRUCTION SYLLABUS 2.1 Instruct and lead a variety of mountain-related activities for participants, who range from novice to committed hill walker and rock climber. 2.2 Demonstrate care and leadership of a party on scrambling and other terrain including the use of various rope techniques. 2.3 Show safe control of a party in descent/retreat from a rock climb or on steep broken ground. 2.4 Demonstrate suitable choice of climb taking into account the ability and aspirations of the party and the likely weather and conditions. 2.5 Present a range of lectures to an audience on mountain-related topics, promoting learning and encouraging discussion. 2.6 Instruct all aspects of navigation. 2.7 Structure, plan and run a variety of indoor technical sessions for both novice and experienced climbers. GUIDANCE For the Mountaineering Instructor, teaching facilities encompass a variety of environments. Structuring an activity for a single student is very different to meeting the needs of a mixed-ability group. The instructor should be able to formulate a teaching plan for a wide range of requirements and organise appropriate equipment and resources. The style of delivery may need to be modified as the activity progresses and the instructor should develop a framework for appraising the success of a session. Preparing written teaching plans for various contingencies can be helpful. To work in the full range of outdoor environments an instructor needs appropriate experience and a flexible approach to each session. An instructor needs to make balanced decisions about the appropriate activity for a particular group or day and to make further decisions about the actual route once embarked. Competent navigation across country and route finding on the crag frees the instructor to concentrate on teaching aims and safety considerations. The instructor should develop teaching progressions for the various elements of navigation and be able to pull all 13

14 MOUNTAIN TRAINING these skills together in a holistic approach. Attending to personal safety and safeguarding the party call for a variety of methods, depending on the situation. This ranges from careful briefing through assertive party management to skilful application of a rope. The Mountaineering Instructor should be equally at home safeguarding a party with the rope on scrambling terrain where a slip would have serious consequences or taking one or more students up a multi-pitch rock climb. In other situations the less conventional use of a rope may prevent a potential problem or facilitate the speedy evacuation of a group from a tricky situation. This may call for both good judgement and technical dexterity. With the increased demand for adventure activities that do not fall into the strict definitions of climbing or mountaineering, it is important that Mountaineering Instructors should be able to contribute to the running and organisation of such sessions. The activities covered may include gorge walks, sea-level traverses and any other situations where the skills and techniques of climbing are used to reduce the risks to appropriate levels (see Appendix 5). For some sessions an indoor environment may be more appropriate. The instructor should be able to research and present technical information in a structured manner, using audio-visual aids where appropriate. Many aspects of mountaineering are introduced or practised indoors, requiring planning of appropriate resources to maximise participation for the whole group. Similarly, the instructor should be able to entertain and inspire groups from different backgrounds with talks on a mountaineering theme. Experience in these skills is required to overcome stage nerves and to anticipate potential problems. For those lacking in professional opportunities to lecture, there are plenty of voluntary organisations that will welcome a guest speaker. 14

15 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG ROCK CLIMBING INSTRUCTION SYLLABUS 3.1 Prepare and organise a day of rock climbing instruction for a group on a single pitch crag, including bouldering, climbing, top-roping, abseiling and lowering. 3.2 Assess the ability of a group in order to give a safe, enjoyable and educational day. 3.3 Instruct and coach all rock climbing skills, ranging from the introduction of climbing to the coaching of committed and experienced climbers. GUIDANCE Mountaineering Instructors often work with groups in a single pitch environment. They also need sufficient experience to work on crags with access or escape problems. The Mountaineering Instructor should be able to give advice on appropriate staffing ratios for particular circumstances and to train other leaders in the safe and effective use of the single pitch environment. The Mountaineering Instructor should be capable of assessing the needs of groups and individuals from a wide range of backgrounds. They must be able to plan a suitable session or series of sessions, while retaining flexibility to modify plans as and when circumstances dictate. The Mountaineering Instructor should be able to run coaching sessions in movement skills and teach appropriate warm-up and cool-down routines. They should be able to give advice on improving flexibility, endurance and strength. Mountaineering Instructors must be able to teach rock climbing on multi-pitch climbs, working with one or more students and ensuring that a suitable hands-on teaching progression is provided for all. This can range from an introduction to the multi-pitch environment focusing on basic movement and belaying skills, through to teaching novice lead climbers and coaching experienced climbers. A Mountaineering Instructor s students should therefore expect to climb numerous pitches and develop as climbers during a typical multi-pitch session. Rope-work skills should include appropriate use of parallel and series systems as well as the effective use of double-rope technique. The Instructor should be able to demonstrate and teach effective use of a variety of belay devices and the construction of belay anchors appropriate to the anticipated directions of pull. Attention to smooth and efficient rope management should be taught in order to prevent problems and associated safety issues. 15

16 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 4 PROBLEM SOLVING AND RESCUE SKILLS SYLLABUS 4.1 Assess an incident on a crag to determine the most efficient and effective solution. 4.2 Apply a variety of problem-solving and improvised-rescue techniques using normal climbing equipment, to include abseiling, lowering, hoisting, escaping from the system and prusiking. 4.3 Assess an accident scene and implement appropriate action. 4.4 Demonstrate knowledge of mountain rescue equipment for general and crag rescue situations. GUIDANCE Skills such as ascending a rope with prusiks or hoisting an unconscious casualty are all part of the instructor s toolbox, but should be viewed in context, by considering the following: What is the problem? Who is affected? How do I prevent the problem escalating and what are the potential consequences of any action (or inaction)? What is the simplest solution? Can I use gravity to help me? If belays are required are they appropriate for the forces involved and the direction of pull? Activities such as aid climbing and sack hauling can assist in developing these skills. Candidates should practise these skills in realistic situations and often with the belay out of reach. While familiarity with basic pulleys, ascenders and similar specialist equipment is important, the instructor should be able to deal with problems using normal rock climbing equipment plus a maximum of three prusik loops. 16

17 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG NATIONAL AWARDS AND LOCAL ACCREDITATION SCHEMES SYLLABUS 5.1 Know about the organisation, philosophy and structure of Mountain Training s awards in the UK. 5.2 Instruct and supervise aspects of the Mountain Leader, Single Pitch Award, Hill and Moorland Leader, Climbing Wall Award, Climbing Wall Leading Award and local accreditation schemes. 5.3 Know the standards required for all the above awards and suitable methods to train and assess for them. GUIDANCE Candidates should familiarise themselves with the contents of the relevant literature in order to gain a deeper appreciation of the organisation, philosophy and standards of the schemes. Experience gained working on these courses is invaluable even if only in an observational role. Experience of working on Mountain Training courses will promote understanding of the skills required to brief candidates, observe tasks and give feedback at appropriate moments. The requirements at registration, training and assessment will also become more clearly defined, enabling candidates to work effectively and at the correct level on training and assessment for each scheme and have an understanding of the associated administration and organisation. 17

18 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 6 THE MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENT SYLLABUS 6.1 Demonstrate knowledge of the mountain environment such as geology, natural history, flora and fauna. 6.2 Demonstrate knowledge of the multiple uses of mountain areas and the need for conservation and protection of land from human pressures. 6.3 Show awareness of issues relating to access to wild country and our impact upon it. 6.5 Enthuse and educate others in the above topics. GUIDANCE There are many good books that will aid in the identification and understanding of geomorphological features, flora, fauna etc. There are also plenty of sources for folk tales, local pronunciations and cultural insights. However, a Mountaineering Instructor should generally be able to demonstrate awareness about the local environment and identify common species encountered on a typical day out without further research. The fragile mountain environment is under pressure from economic forces and conflicting needs. There is a delicate balance between conservation and access; between land management and recreational use. The Mountaineering Instructor has the power to assist in bridging these potential rifts with empathy and understanding or to hasten erosion and upset the balance. Awareness of the pressures faced by rural communities will engender genuine diplomacy. The Mountaineering Councils are excellent sources of information about voluntary agreements and access legislation. They represent the mountaineering community in debates at local and national levels. Attendance at local area meetings is a good way to gain an understanding of environmental issues. Bodies such as the National Trust publish magazines of topical interest and the Field Study Council offers courses run by inspiring environmentalists. 18

19 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG DEVELOPMENT AND HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING SYLLABUS 7.1 Know about mountaineering and rock climbing history. 7.2 Demonstrate knowledge of a wide range of mountain literature including instructional books, guidebooks and biographies. 7.3 Be familiar with the structure of clubs and mountaineering organisations. GUIDANCE There are plenty of good books about the history and traditions of mountaineering (see Appendix 2) and these start to come alive when related to the climbs we tackle. The historical notes in guidebooks will develop an active interest in the history of the sport. Browsing through present and past issues of climbing and trekking magazines helps develop a deeper awareness of the many threads that run through the culture. Course members will often look to an instructor for guidance on finding climbing partners. The instructor should be able to advise directly, or at least put them in touch with a local contact. Familiarity with literature from the Mountaineering Councils is a very useful starting point. Attendance at regional meetings is an excellent way for Mountaineering Instructors to stay in touch, as well as contributing to the ongoing development of the sport. 19

20 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 8 ASSESSMENT OF RISK AND ITS APPLICATION SYLLABUS 8.1 Be aware of the responsibilities of the Mountaineering Instructor to the employer, child, parent, head teacher, Training Board and others. 8.2 Evaluate the needs and requirements of individuals and parties to ensure a suitable level of adventure, risk and safety. 8.3 Be familiar with Mountain Training s National Guidelines and the implications of the Activity Centres (Young Persons Safety) Act Understand the Mountaineering Instructor s role as a technical advisor. GUIDANCE The Mountaineering Instructor operates in a range of hazardous locations and this demands mature judgement and experience to protect participants from unnecessary risks. Learning to manage risk in an acceptable way is a cornerstone of adventure activities. Instructing in mountain environments demands a balance between the needs and abilities of students, the limitations imposed by weather conditions and terrain hazards and the teaching objectives, all of which are dynamic in nature. Mountaineering Instructors need to develop a clear understanding of the moral and legal implications of their management of risk when working with children, adults and mixed groups. Instructors should understand the concepts of risk management that underpin the legal framework within which they operate. Concepts such as Duty of Care and principles such as in loco parentis or the volenti non fit injuria clause have practical implications. The Mountaineering Instructor should understand these at a personal level and also in order to advise prospective leaders and supervisors for national governing body and local awards. The interpretation of legal precedents is linked closely with written documentation. Therefore it is important to know where to access printed regulations and guidelines. Health and Safety Executive literature is a useful 20

21 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG starting point and climbing magazines regularly carry articles written by practising lawyers. Additionally, the Association of Mountaineering Instructors newsletter is a regular source of informative articles and Mountain Training s publications are essential reading for all Mountaineering Instructors. The Activity Centres (Young Persons Safety) Act 1995 has implications for any instructor working with young people in the UK (not in Northern Ireland). It is essential to ascertain whether accreditation has been obtained if required, and thus familiarity with the scope of the MIA Scheme and its exemptions is a prerequisite for a Mountaineering Instructor. Local authorities and organisations are increasingly calling upon the services of Mountaineering Instructors to act as technical advisors. Additionally, courts occasionally require the services of expert witnesses. The potential repercussions in either case are enormous and should not be entered into lightly. 21

22 MOUNTAIN TRAINING ADDITIONAL GUIDANCE CANDIDATES Candidates must have a good level of experience in order to grasp and analyse all aspects of the training and contribute fully to the course. They should feel free to ask even the simplest questions since they are often the most pertinent. It can be helpful to keep notes during the course to refer to at a later date. TRAINERS Trainers should encourage and assist candidates to become more effective instructors. While trainers have a responsibility to deliver the syllabus, they must also structure their courses to accommodate the strengths and weaknesses of candidates. Courses should concentrate on the skills that candidates may have difficulty in learning without expert guidance, while not forgetting that in reality the instructor s skills need to be integrated holistically. Candidates should be given regular feedback and should leave the training course with a good idea of what is required during the consolidation period. This may often take the form of an action plan. ASSESSORS Assessors will evaluate the performance of a candidate against the syllabus requirements and make a realistic and objective assessment against the nationally recognised standard. Assessments should enable everyone to perform to the best of their ability under suitably realistic conditions. Assessors should ensure that candidates understand the tasks required of them and are given sufficient opportunities to demonstrate their competence. Assessors should remember the importance of a holistic approach to the skills of leadership by limiting the time devoted to single techniques in isolation. Feedback should be provided to candidates at the end of each element. 22

23 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG APPENDIX 1 - DEFINITIONS CONFIDENCE ROPING, SHORT ROPING AND MOVING TOGETHER Confidence Roping This is used to safeguard an individual within a hill walking group to boost confidence in an apparently exposed situation. The individual is tied to a short length of rope that is held by the instructor or leader. The instructor might even choose not to tie into the rope. Both will usually move at the same time, thereby not impeding the progress of the group as a whole. The use of the rope is normally unplanned. Confidence roping is for use in situations where a fall or slip will not have serious consequences. Short Roping This is the use of the rope to safeguard one or two individuals in ascent or descent on terrain that is exposed and where a slip could have serious consequences. The terrain is not continuous rock climbing or scrambling but may have short sections of technical difficulty approaching the V Diff grade. Sections that require safeguarding will generally be very short but could be anything from a few metres to 20m or more. The instructor or leader will generally climb the section first leaving the clients secure, possibly belayed, on a ledge. Normally clients will move over the difficult ground at the same time, tied a few feet apart. The instructor or leader will safeguard them using direct belay methods or, where necessary, a braced stance with a body belay. The whole party will move at the same time between sections of difficulty and in less exposed situations. Occasionally in descent it may be appropriate to lower the clients either together or individually. Leaders or instructors will not normally place running belays for their own safety but place them for the safety of the clients and for directional stability when safeguarding the clients. Moving Together The party will travel at the same time over terrain that presents a combination of exposure and technical difficulty or extreme exposure alone. Most commonly this technique is linked with moving along alpine type ridges or mixed climbs where speed, with a degree of safety, is important. A competent and compatible rope of two will move together, arranging running belays between each climber. On arriving at anything of greater difficulty the party will stop and initiate normal climbing procedures. SUMMER AND WINTER Winter: When winter conditions, including snow and ice, prevail or are forecast. This cannot be defined by a portion of the year. Summer: Any conditions not covered under winter. 23

24 MOUNTAIN TRAINING APPENDIX 2 - SUGGESTED READING LIST Books: Rock Climbing, L. Peter, Mountain Training UK, Revised 2nd Edition 2011 Hill Walking, S. Long, Mountain Training UK, Revised 3rd Edition 2014 Navigation in the Mountains, C. Forte, Mountain Training UK, 2012 The Complete Rock Climber, M. Creasey, et al, 1999/reprinted 2003 The Handbook of Climbing, A. Fyffe & I. Peter, Pelham Books, 1997 Mountain Skills Training Handbook, P. Hill & S. Johnston, David and Charles, 2000 Mountaincraft and Leadership, E. Langmuir, Revised 3rd Edition MLTE/MLTS, 2004 A Manual of Modern Rope Techniques, N. Shepherd, Constable, 1998 One Move Too Many, T. Hochholzer & V. Schoeffl, Lochner-Verlag, 2003 Classic Rock, K Wilson, Granada, 1981 The Games Climbers Play, K Wilson, Baton Wicks, 2006 Leading and Managing Groups in the Outdoors, K. Ogilvie, IOL, Revised 2nd Edition, 2005 Magazines: Summit, Scottish Mountaineer, Irish Mountain Log, Climb, Climber Free downloads: National Guidelines, Various, Mountain Training UK, Fifth Edition 2014 Care and Maintenance, BMC, 2001 Ropes; a guide for climbers and mountaineers, BMC, 2014 Belaying and Abseiling Guide, BMC Green Guide to the Uplands, BMC, 2009 Climbing Wall Manual, BMC, 2010 Websites: Coachwise1st4sport Useful resources for clients: Climbing Outside, BMC, 2005 (FREE download) Safety on Mountains, BMC, 2010 Rock Climbing Essentials DVD, BMC Climbing Wall Essentials DVD, BMC 24

25 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG APPENDIX 3 - COURSE PROGRAMMES SUMMER TRAINING COURSE OUTLINE The purpose of the MIA training course is three-fold: to expose candidates to the skills and techniques needed for safe operation as a climbing and mountaineering instructor in the United Kingdom and Ireland under summer conditions to prepare candidates for the MIA assessment to explain the role of the Mountaineering Instructor in other Mountain Training schemes Training courses are usually quite large, with eight to twelve students involved. Candidates should come to the training course prepared to contribute to a structured learning experience. Much of the time Mountaineering Instructors work in isolation. Therefore courses like the MIA training course, which bring together candidates from different climbing and instructional backgrounds, offer unrivalled opportunities for exchanging ideas and discussing techniques and teaching methods. The course aims to cover aspects of the syllabus that candidates usually find most problematic and which are difficult to practise in isolation. Therefore areas such as technical climbing will receive less in-depth coverage than subjects such as improvised rescue and belay skills. If there is any broad area that candidates would like to cover in greater depth, they should raise this with the instructors. However, it must be recognised that not all of the syllabus can be covered during the training course. The following training course outlines give an approximate breakdown of the course content for a nine day course and a ten day (two x five day) course. These are only an outline and Mountain Training recognises the freedom of each provider to run a training course that: satisfies the requirements of the board satisfies the requirements of the majority of course members makes best use of prevailing conditions and weather Skills are not taught in isolation. They are transferable across all syllabus areas. Therefore an integrated approach to the syllabus material will be taken. Candidates are recommended to take a holistic approach to subject matter and not assume that because a specific technique was taught in one situation this is the only situation for which it is appropriate. 25

26 MOUNTAIN TRAINING 9 Day Course Day Main topic 1 Single Pitch Climbing 2 Intro to problem solving 3 Multi-pitch climbing 4 Multi-pitch teaching and leading 5 Problem solving multi-pitch 6 Mountain day 7 Mountain day 8 Group adventure 9 Navigation 10 Day Course (two five day blocks) Day Main topic 1 Risk assessment 2 Single Pitch Climbing 3 Multi-pitch climbing 4 Multi-pitch climbing 5 Mountain day Break 6 Problem solving 7 Navigation 8 Coaching climbing 9 Teaching leading 10 Training and assessing Evening Sessions Throughout the course, there will be a variety of evening sessions, which may include subjects such as prusiking, use of climbing walls, the work of the training boards, teaching navigation, climbing equipment, future developments in climbing, ethics, professional codes of conduct and planning. Feedback At the end of the course there will be a review process during which candidates will be made aware of what they need to do before presenting themselves for assessment. More detailed course programmes can be obtained from your chosen provider. Both course types will cover the following: Single Pitch Climbing The organisation of single pitch climbing sessions and bouldering sessions will be examined, along with the introduction of novices to climbing, group abseiling sessions, solving common single pitch climbing problems, teaching progressions, choice of venues and safety considerations. The SPA scheme and the Mountaineering Instructor s role within it will also be explained. Problem solving and rescues Practical problem solving in multi-pitch situations is covered and there will be opportunities to practise new techniques and to experiment with the skills required in order to solve common crag problems and more difficult scenarios. It is important to realise that the purpose of including improvised rescue in the MIA syllabus is to encourage competence and confidence in instructors, rather than to equip the instructor with the skills needed to solve any problem, in any situation, anywhere in the world! Multi-pitch climbing and teaching leading Trainees will learn about belays and rope systems, route choice and supervision of students in real multi-pitch climbing situations. Little time will be spent on technical climbing with the focus instead being on examining belays, belay construction and methods of handling students in a variety of multi-pitch situations. The emphasis will be on teaching progressions. Similarly, trainees will be introduced to the various methods of teaching leading, concentrating on methods which keep both the instructor and the students safe. Mountain day(s) Short-roping techniques, concentrating on route choice and direct and indirect belays are covered. A topic 26

27 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG for discussion will be the judgement required to use short-roping techniques to safeguard people on mountain scrambles and steep ground, for example when approaching or descending from crags like Pillar Rock in the Lake District. This element provides skills training and is an opportunity for candidates to measure their own judgement against that of others. This session also includes environmental content, which should run through all of the Mountaineering Instructor s work. Navigation Trainees will be given opportunities to hone navigation skills and illustrate the standard expected at MIA assessment. You will also be given some useful coaching input on how navigation can best be taught to others. Group Adventure With the increased demand for adventure activities that do not fall into the strict definitions of climbing or mountaineering, it is important that Mountaineering Instructors should be able to contribute to the running and organisation of such activities. The activities covered may include gorge walks, sea-level traverses and any other situations where the skills and techniques of climbing are used to make activities safe (e.g. the use of bottom ropes on high ropes courses). The purpose is to encourage awareness of the dangers involved in these activities and the instruction that must be given before adventure activities are undertaken. The specific skills of group management and the ways in which the activities can be enhanced in terms of both education and enjoyment will also be covered. Other areas covered Training and assessing others is an integral part of the MIA syllabus and part of the course will involve discussing and/or practising techniques. MIA ASSESSMENT COURSE OUTLINE A typical five day MIA assessment will usually include the following elements: Personal Climbing Candidates will be assessed on their personal ability to climb multi-pitch routes at VS 4c. They need to be able to demonstrate that they can climb confidently and fluently at the grade and they should show that their skill level allows them to look after their own personal safety and the safety of those climbing with them. They should be able to protect routes effectively, choose appropriate rope techniques and construct belays safely and efficiently. They may also be asked to perform an abseil retreat from the crag. During this day their whole approach to climbing will be assessed. If candidates do not pass this day it is unlikely that they will be successful on the other days. If the course director decides that a candidate s lack of ability would put themselves or other candidates at risk, they may be asked to withdraw from the rest of the course. It is therefore most important that candidates arrive for assessment climbing well and confidently at the required standard. Problem Solving Candidates will be assessed on their ability to solve problems, in particular those commonly experienced in multi-pitch climbing. They may well be climbing again at VS 4c and problems set will be realistic and carefully explained. Any efficient and safe solution will be acceptable. As well as their ability to solve crag problems, candidates will also be assessed on their personal climbing, ropework and belay selection and methods. Typical problems may include rescuing a fallen leader or evacuating an injured climber from the crag. They will also be expected to solve some common simpler problems e.g. a student climbs past a runner or cannot do a particular move on a climb. A very important part of the assessment is the 27

28 MOUNTAIN TRAINING ability to solve problems safely, simply and effectively. Mountain Day This day will be an assessment of candidates all round ability as mountaineers and their ability to cope with the irregular terrain so often found in the mountains. It will also consider environmental input, navigation, time keeping and the appropriate use of roped and un-roped skills for moving with a group on different types of terrain. Teaching Rock Climbing For this day candidates will teach students. These may be novices who want to learn to rock climb or more experienced climbers who want to improve their skills. Candidates will need to make sure their students are properly equipped and then plan a day appropriate to their abilities, aspirations and to the conditions. This should allow candidates to demonstrate their skills and provide their students with a constructive and enjoyable day out. The emphasis of the day will be on the candidate s ability to teach rock climbing and to make the most of conditions for the students. Candidates will be assessed on their choice of venue, their ability to structure an effective teaching day and on their professionalism. Ropework, belaying and all other climbing skills will also be assessed. Theory Paper During the assessment course there will be a written theory paper which will attempt to cover the syllabus areas not readily assessed in a practical way, e.g. the history of climbing. Navigation The navigation assessment will look at the candidates personal skills and their ability to teach navigation. Candidates have experienced considerable difficulty with this element of the assessment, usually because their personal navigation is not of a sufficiently high standard. They must make sure that they can navigate effectively. Candidates will be expected to teach navigation at ML level and this requires a high level of personal proficiency. Lecturettes There will be an opportunity for candidates to demonstrate their ability to prepare, present and answer questions on a mountain-related topic of their choice. 28

29 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG APPENDIX 4 - MOUNTAIN TRAINING UK MOUNTAIN TRAINING UK The main aim of the Mountain Training boards is to promote awareness of mountain safety through its formal leader training schemes and skills courses. Mountain Training UK promotes, coordinates and assists the Mountain Training boards in the provision of this training and is directly responsible for the Mountaineering Instructor Award and Certificate (MIA and MIC) schemes, the Coaching scheme and the International Mountain Leader scheme. The other awards are coordinated by the other Mountain Training boards (England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland and Republic of Ireland) Mountain Training UK also maintains a centralised national Mountain Training database, which holds records of these qualifications throughout the UK. Mountain Training UK Siabod Cottage, Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ES Tel: info@mountain-training.org Website: PROFESSIONAL ASSOCIATIONS Association of Mountaineering Instructors Mountain Training Association British Association of International Mountain Leaders British Association of Mountain Guides NATIONAL MOUNTAIN CENTRES Glenmore Lodge Glenmore, Aviemore, Inverness-shire PH22 1QU Tel: enquiries@glenmorelodge.org.uk Website: 29

30 MOUNTAIN TRAINING Plas y Brenin Capel Curig, Conwy LL24 0ET Tel: info@pyb.co.uk Website: Tollymore Mountain Centre Bryansford, Newcastle, Co Down BT33 0PT Tel: admin@tollymore.com Website: ASSOCIATED ORGANISATIONS Adventure Activities Licensing Authority AALA, 17 Lambourne Crescent, Llanishen, Cardiff CF14 5GF Tel: info@aala.org Website: Health and Safety Executive (HSE) Information Services Caerphilly Business Park, Caerphilly CF83 3GG Tel: advice@hse.gsi.gov.uk Website: 30

31 MOUNTAIN-TRAINING.ORG APPENDIX 5 - SUGGESTED MODEL FOR TEACHING IN MOUNTAIN ENVIRONMENTS Teaching/instructing should be a dynamic mixture of personalities (teacher and student(s), learning aims, venue, weather and even interaction with other climbers at the venue. This dynamic mixture could be proposed as the chief ingredient of a successful teaching session but it is by definition hard to pin down. However there are some general qualities of a good days teaching in a multi-pitch environment, whether in summer of winter. These include the following: Candidates should demonstrate adequate preparation - the ASSURE model can be adapted here: Analyze learners Demonstrate a thorough discussion with the student(s) to negotiate learning outcomes and appropriate venue and routes State objectives The candidate should be able to articulate the learning points of the day As a general presumption it should not be necessary for the students to lead climb unless there are strong educational reasons Select instructional methods, gear, crag and routes Appropriate personal kit and emergency kit, easily accessible while climbing Ensure appropriate kit is brought by the student(s) Utilize opportunities and resources The candidate should demonstrate an ability to choose appropriate climbs for the students Under normal circumstances the student(s) should be working on unfamiliar routes The first climb should generally be well within the candidate s stated capabilities Appropriate reference to environmental factors should be included Require learner participation The general theme should be a journey: The student should complete several pitches of roped climbing: normally this will probably be at least four pitches and also some descent. The student should demonstrate positive development in techniques and knowledge. Hands On Any rope work done by the candidate instead of performed by the student(s) should be a conscious decision not to delegate. Under normal circumstances student(s) should experience multiple roles in the session (e.g. removing runners, belaying leader) Evaluate and revise The candidate should include a review session to cover the main learning points The candidate should be able to articulate ways that future sessions could be improved 31