CHÂTEAUX OF THE LOIRE VALLEY ROAD TRIPS

Transcription

1 CHÂTEAUX OF THE LOIRE VALLEY ROAD TRIPS This edition written and researched by Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Gregor Clark

2 HOW TO USE THIS BOOK Reviews In the Destinations section: All reviews are ordered in our authors preference, starting with their most preferred option. Additionally: Sights are arranged in the geographic order that we suggest you visit them and, within this order, by author preference. Eating and Sleeping reviews are ordered by price range (budget, midrange, top end) and, within these ranges, by author preference. Symbols In This Book K Top Tips Link Your Trips Tips from Locals Trip Detour History & Culture Food & Drink Outdoors Essential Photo Walking Tour 5 Eating Family 4 Sleeping Map Legend Routes Trip Route Trip Detour Linked Trip Walk Route Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road PlazaMall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass Walk TrackPath Boundaries International StateProvince Cliff Wall Population Capital (National) Capital (StateProvince) CityLarge Town TownVillage Transport Airport Cable Car Funicular 2 Parking TrainRailway Tram Underground Train Station Trips Trip Numbers Trip Stop Walking tour Trip Detour Route Markers E44 E-road network M100 National network Hydrography RiverCreek Intermittent River SwampMangrove Canal Water DrySalt Intermittent Lake Glacier Areas Beach Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park Forest Urban Area Sportsground 1 Sights r Beaches 2 Activities C Courses T Tours z Festivals & Events 4 Sleeping 5 Eating 6 Drinking 3 Entertainment 7 Shopping 8 Information & Transport These symbols and abbreviations give vital information for each listing: % Telephone number h Opening hours p Parking n Nonsmoking a Air-conditioning i Internet access W Wi-fi access s Swimming pool v Vegetarian selection E English-language menu c Family-friendly Pet-friendly g Bus f Ferry j Tram d Train apt apartments d double rooms dm dorm beds q quad rooms r rooms s single rooms ste suites tr triple rooms tw twin rooms

3 CONTENTS PLAN YOUR TRIP Welcome to the Loire Valley & Burgundy... 5 Loire Valley & Burgundy Map... 6 Loire Valley & Burgundy Highlights... 8 Paris City Guide...10 Need to Know...14 ROAD TRIPS 1 Châteaux of the Loire 5 Days 19 Caves & Cellars 2 of the Loire 3 Days 29 3 Medieval Burgundy 6 Days 39 Route des Grands 4 Crus 2 Days 47 DESTINATIONS Loire Valley Orléans...57 Blois...61 Château de Chambord Château de Cheverny Château de Chaumont Tours...67 Château de Chenonceau...72 Amboise...72 Château de Villandry...75 Château de Langeais...75 Château d Azay-le-Rideau...76 Château d Ussé Chinon Saumur...79 Angers Burgundy Côte d Or Vineyards Beaune Noyers-sur-Serein Vézelay Autun Cluny ROAD TRIP ESSENTIALS France Driving Guide France Travel Guide Language

4 Vineyards near Beaune, Burgundy s viticultural capital 4 01-welcome-map-rt-clv1.indd :47:19 AM

5 DENNIS K. JOHNSON GETTY IMAGES WELCOME TO THE LOIRE VALLEY & BURGUNDY World-renowned châteaux and fine wines may be the two most obvious reasons to visit the Loire Valley and Burgundy, but they re only the tip of the iceberg. This region is home to one of the largest concentrations of cave dwellings and some of Europe s finest medieval architecture. When you ve had your fill of château gawking and vineyard hopping, make some time for roads less travelled: go underground to discover the Loire s ancient troglodyte culture; or spend a week exploring Burgundy s medieval churches, abbeys and walled towns welcome-map-rt-clv1.indd :47:28 AM

6 Falaise Dreux LOIRE VALLEY & BURGUNDY Domfront Sees Châteaux of the Loire 1 Discover a world of caves and wine cellars and savour some of the region's finest food and wine. 5 DAYS A11 Laval Lava La va val al Le L Forêt d'orléans M Mans SARTHE MAYENNE Orléans Ecommoy A28 Durtal Vendôme Loir ANJOU Blois Angers Mûrs- Erigné Mazé Parc Naturel Régional Loire Anjou Touraine Saumur Doué-laFontaine Vihiers Tours Chambord Montlouis-sur-Loire A85 Bléré Esvres Mer NazellesNégron D7 TOURAINE Baugé Chinon INDRE-ETLOIRE MontreuilBellay Vatan ntaigu Descartes Châtillonsur-Indre Ind Levroux re Châteauroux INDRE DEUXSÈVRES A10 Niort 2 La Châtre Poitiers Caves & Cellars of the Loire France s greatest châteaux, from VIENNE medieval towers to royal palaces. 3 DAYS A20 e miles CHARENTE Saintes 100 km HAUTEVIENNE Guéret CREUSE Aubusson Limoges 01-welcome-map-rt-clv1.indd :47:29 AM

7 Châlonssur-Marne _ PARIS Route des Grands Crus 4 Tour some of the most reputed vineyards on this classic Burgundy route. 2 DAYS ns HAUTEMARNE LOIRET PAYS D'AUXOIS Auxerre Briare Forêt de Châtillon YONNE A31 Montbard A77 H Vézelay Dijon CÔTE D'OR Parc Naturel Régional du Morvan Loir CHER 0 D980 e Saulieu NIÈVRE Bourges r Che Nevers Beaune Autun Al lie r Moulins Digoin Sanvignesles-Mines Chalonsur-Saône A6 SAÔNE-ETLOIRE Tournus ALLIER 3 Montluçon A71 n Medieval Burgundy Meander through Burgundy's churches, monasteries and fortified villages. 6 DAYS AIN RHÔNE LOIRE Puy de Dôme (1465m) R R 01-welcome-map-rt-clv1.indd 7 ClermontFerrand A72 Mâcon Tarare Lyon ^ :47:34 AM

8 HIGHLIGHTS 02-highlights-rt-clv1.indd 8 EDUCATION IMAGESUIGGETTY IMAGES LOIRE VALLEY & BURGUNDY :30:26 PM

9 ATLANTIDE PHOTOTRAVELCORBIS Turquant (above right) Picturesque town nestled into cave-riddled cliffs. Pay a visit on Trip 2 BON APPETITALAMY Château de Chambord (left) French Renaissance architecture at its finest and fanciest. See it on Trip 1 Puligny-Montrachet (right) Home to some of Burgundy s most extraordinary white wines. Enjoy on Trip 4 02-highlights-rt-clv1.indd :30:31 PM

10 PARIS PARIS If ever a city needed no introduction, it s Paris a trend setter, fashion former and style icon for centuries, and still very much at the cutting edge. Whether you re here to tick off the landmarks or seek out the secret corners, Paris fulfils all your expectations, and still leaves you wanting more. Eiffel Tower at dusk city-guide-clv-trips.indd :31:39 PM

11 DANIEL CHUIGETTY IMAGES Getting Around Driving in Paris is a nightmare. Happily, there s no need for a car. The metro is fast, frequent and efficient; tickets cost 1.70 (day passes 6.70) and are valid on the city s buses. Bikes can be hired from 1800 Vélib ( stations; insert a credit card, authorise a 150 deposit and pedal away. Day passes cost 1; first 30 minutes free, subsequent 30 minutes from 2. Parking Meters don t take coins; use a chip-enabled credit card. Municipal car parks cost 2 to 3.50 an hour, or 20 to 25 per 24 hours. Discover the Taste of Paris Le Marais is one of the best areas for eating out, with its small restaurants and trendy bistros. Don t miss Paris street markets: the Marché Bastille, rue Montorgueil and rue Mouffetard are full of atmosphere. Live Like a Local Base yourself in Montmartre for its Parisian charm, if you don t mind crowds. Le Marais and Bastille provide style on a budget, while St-Germain is good for a splurge. Useful Websites Paris Info ( Offi cial visitor site. Lonely Planet ( Lonely Planet s city guide. Secrets of Paris ( Local s blog full of insider tips. Paris by Mouth ( Eat and drink your way round the capital. For more, check out our city and country guides. TOP EXPERIENCES Eiffel Tower at Twilight Any time is a good time to take in the panorama from the top of the Metal Asparagus (as Parisians snidely call it) but the twilight view is extra special ( Musée du Louvre France s greatest repository of art, sculpture and artefacts, the Louvre is a must-visit but don t expect to see it all in a day ( Basilique du Sacré-Coeur Climb inside the cupola of this Montmartre landmark for one of the best cross-city vistas ( -coeur-montmartre.com). Musée d Orsay Paris second-most-essential museum, with a fabulous collection encompassing originals by Cézanne, Degas, Monet, Van Gogh and more ( Cathédrale de Notre-Dame Peer over Paris from the north tower of this Gothic landmark, surrounded by gargoyles and flying buttresses ( Les Catacombes Explore more than 2km of tunnels beneath the streets of Montparnasse, lined with the bones and skulls of millions of Parisians (www. catacombes.paris.fr). Cimetière Père-Lachaise Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Marcel Proust and Jim Morrison are just a few of the famous names buried in this wildly overgrown cemetery (www. perelachaise.com). Canal St-Martin Join the locals for a walk or bike ride along the tow-paths of this 4.5km canal, once derelict but now reborn as a haven from the city hustle. 11