A unique view of Cuba s timeless landscapes and cityscapes, never before photographed from the air
Foreword by the Author Cuba is a country of extraordinary beauty and breathtaking landscapes; however, due to its unique history and exceptionally restricted airspace, no photographer had ever been granted access to photograph the island from the air... until now. My passion for aerial photography has spanned more than ten years and has led me to some of the most scenic destinations in the world. Flying and shooting from the air is a tremendous adventure for me, but also a privileged opportunity to discover and share sights and perspectives that most people never get to see. I have flown over every continent in helicopters, large and small aircraft, gliders, hot air balloons, and practically any other craft that can get airborne. And my journeys have led to the creation of aerial photography books of my home country of Lithuania as well as Belize and Mexico. It was during one of these expeditions that I discovered that no such collection of aerial photographs existed about Cuba, and I decided to create one. The book you are holding is the culmination of nearly five years of securing the needed permits, negotiating permissions, and traversing the island on numerous trips. I can proudly say that I am the first photographer to be allowed to fly over and take pictures of Cuba. Even the Cubans I met and worked with on this project could not believe that someone would be able to succeed and produce a book of aerial photography about their homeland! This complex work was like an ultramarathon with almost countless hurdles and obstacles. I achieved it only with the help of new acquaintances, reliable old friends, respected colleagues and my loving family. Even my children helped me create this book while traveling with me in Cuba. It took many trips, months of waiting, an undulating series of over-enthusiastic moments and hopeless disappointments, and endless expense (both financial and emotional), but today I am thrilled to have succeeded in photographing this beautiful island from the air and publishing this labor of love. I could even write a separate book about the process of realizing this unique work, but that is another project, for another day. In the meantime, I ve summarized my experiences in a chapter entitled, The Making of this Book. A great many people have contributed to Unseen Cuba and have become my friends for life. While in Cuba, I experienced numerous challenges and surprises during what would become one of the most creative and transformative periods of my life. The process of creating this book has been the longest by far of any project I have undertaken. I first touched down in Cuba in March 2010, and I captured my last photo in June 2014. I hope that my journeys to this country, which I admired so much from the sky, will help you discover and appreciate its extraordinary beauty, its incredible diversity and its unique place in the world. Let me introduce to you Unseen Cuba, a look through the eyes of the angels at the timeless landscapes and cityscapes of a country unlike any other, photographed from the air for the very first time. 6 7
Contents: western CUBA 11 CENTRAL CUBA 119 EASTERN CUBA 243 Visual Index 402 The Making of this Book 422 Acknowledgements 438 8 9
Copyrighted Material The majestic mystique of Havana, the paradisiacal shores of Varadero, the untamed beauty of Ciénaga de Zapata, the timeless landscapes of Viñales the western third of the island of Cuba, comprised by the provinces of Pinar del Río, Artemisa, Havana, Mayabeque, Matanzas and Isla de la Juventud, is as diverse as it is enchanting. Seen from above, the landscapes of this memorable slice of Cuba can be enjoyed in all their splendor. Discover the unseen magnificence of occidental Cuba, from the marshlands of southern Matanzas to Cabo San Antonio, the island s westernmost point. Pinar del RÍo 10 Artemisa LA Habana Mayabeque Matanzas Isla De La Juventud 11
San Cristóbal de La Habana, the Pearl of the Antilles, is a grandiose metropolis of 2.2 million inhabitants and the beating heart of Cuba. Flanked by El Morro Castle and the historic city center of Old Havana, a narrow channel gives way to Havana Harbor, the island s main port. El Morro Castle (foreground) and Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña dominate the promontory that overlooks downtown Havana. Built by the Spanish in 1589 to repel raids on Havana, Castillo de los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro still serves as a navigational landmark. Havana s Malecón serves as a broad esplanade, roadway and seawall along the city s northern coast. 14 15
Situated on Hicacos Peninsula between the Atlantic Ocean and the Bay of Cárdenas, Varadero is one of Cuba s most visited areas. 60 61
Copyrighted Material Covering a 2-mile strip in the middle of Hicacos Peninsula, Varadero Golf Club is Cuba s first 18-hole course. Cayo Blanco lies east of Varadero, the first of a long series of cays that make up the Sabana-Camagüey Archipelago on the northern coast of Cuba. Nature and architecture coexist harmoniously throughout the length of Varadero. 74 75
Copyrighted Material Towering mogotes, cone-shaped limestone mountains covered in vegetation, are the signature geological feature in Valle de Viñales. 104 Colorful Mural de la Prehistoria was painted in 1961 on the rocky side of a mogote and depicts an artistic representation of the theory of evolution. 105
Founded in 1514, Trinidad is the crown jewel of Cuba s colonial treasures. With its cobblestoned streets and absence of modern architecture, time seems to stand still in this city. Settled by the foothills of Sierra Escambray, the colonial city of Trinidad has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988. 120 121
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Uninhabited Cayo Herradura is the first cay travelers meet on El Pedraplén causeway. So as not to disturb the delicate mangrove ecosystem, the causeway runs by the cay without ever traversing it. Inaugurated in 1999, El Predraplén causeway is considered a marvel of Cuban engineering and one of the most dramatic and unique roadways on the island. The 30-mile El Pedraplén causeway cuts through Buena Vista Bay, linking mainland Cuba to the Cayería del Norte cays in Villa Clara Province. 176 177
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The sun sets over a spectacular panorama of islets, cays and shallow coral reefs just south of Cayo Coco in Jardines del Rey. 210 211
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Copyrighted Material On the western edge of Santiago de Cuba Province, Pico Turquino rises higher than any other mountain in Cuba, reaching almost 6500 feet above the Caribbean Sea. Part of the Sierra Maestra Mountain Range and the main attraction of Parque Nacional Turquino, this is a haven for hikers and mountain climbers. 246 Pico Turquino and the Sierra Maestra mountains have played an important role in the nation s history. It was here that Fidel Castro s army camped and launched its forays against Batista s troops. At the summit of Pico Turquino, a bust of José Martí pays homage to the hero of the second War of Independence. 247
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Dry riverbeds and natural gorges mark deep grooves in the Sierra del Puril mountains along the southeast coast of Guantánamo Province. The small village of Jauco, on the southern coast of Guantánamo Province, is located at the mouth of a dry river and offers a relatively verdant outpost in an arid region of the island. East of Jauco, the coastal road snakes around Punta Caleta and traverses up to La Máquina. 352 353
Copyrighted Material The Nipe Sagua-Baracoa Mountain Range is known for its biodiversity, due in large part to its abundant water resources. Nestled in these mountains is one of the most pristine virgin rainforests in the Caribbean. 366 367
Copyrighted Material The undulating peaks of the Nipe Sagua-Baracoa Mountain Range spreads across Guantánamo Province. This is one of the most biodiverse areas of the country. 370 Just 12 miles northwest of Santiago de Cuba, the picturesque town of El Cobre is the site of Cuba s most sacred destination: La Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Cobre. La Basilica de Nuestra Señora del Cobre houses a shrine to the country s patron saint: La Virgen de la Caridad (Our Lady of Charity), known locally as Cachita. According to legend, the Virgin appeared in 1612 floating on a board at sea and was spotted by three fishermen who were caught up in a storm. They pulled the figurine (which is a lot smaller than you d think) from the water, and in turn were spared the wrath of the storm. 371
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Copyrighted Material Visual Index LA HABANA La Habana Mariel ARTEMISA Viñiales PINAR DEL RÍO San Cristobal Pinar del Río Güines MAYABEQUE Matanzas Cárdenas Jovellanos MATANZAS Isabela de Sagua Colón VILLA CLARA Aguada de Pasajeros Santa Clara CIENFUEGOS Guane La Fe Sancti Spíritus Cienfuegos ISLA DE LA JUVENTUD Nueva Gerona Caibarién Trinidad SANCTI SPÍRITUS Morón CIEGO DE ÁVILA Ciego de Ávila Florida Nuevitas Camagüey CAMAGÜEY Las Tunas Amancio LAS TUNAS HOLGUÍN Santa Cruz del Sur Manzanillo Pilón 402 Banes Holguín Mayarí Bayamo GRANMA Moa Baracoa Santiago de Cuba SANTIAGO DE CUBA GUANTÁNAMO Guantánamo U.S. Naval Base Guantanamo Bay 403
Copyrighted Material EASTERN CUBA 267, 268, 268, 269 242, 244, 246, 247 A view of the residential neighborhood of Pueblo Nuevo in Holguín City, which lies just south of the historic center of town. The Nipe Sagua-Baracoa Mountain Range straddles the eastern provinces of Holguín and Guantánamo and includes the Cuchillas de Toa Biosphere Reserve and the Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. On the western edge of Santiago de Cuba Province, Pico Turquino rises higher than any other mountain in Cuba, reaching almost 6500 feet above the Caribbean Sea. Part of the Sierra Maestra Mountain Range and the main attraction of Parque Nacional Turquino, this is a haven for hikers and mountain climbers. The many hills in the City of Holguín make for several lookouts that offer panoramic views of the city and surrounding area. Holguín s Calixto García Stadium was inaugurated in 1979 and is the current home of the Holguín Sabuesos (Hounds) baseball team. Recognizable for its twin domed towers, the Catedral de San Isidro dates from 1720 and was one of the city s earliest buildings. A statue of Pope John Paul II greets visitors as they walk in. Pico Turquino and the Sierra Maestra mountains have played an important role in the nation s history. It was here that Fidel Castro s army camped and launched its forays against Batista s troops. At the summit of Pico Turquino, a bust of José Martí pays homage to the hero of the second War of Independence. 269, 270, 272, 272 The old cemetery in the City of Holguín was inaugurated in 1814. 248, 250, 251, 252 Green forests, rolling hills, limestone rock formations and waterways running through unspoiled ecosystems mark the rural lands around Holguín Province. The limestone mountains known as mogotes are an iconic feature of Cuba s geology and can be found throughout Holguín Province. 273, 274, 275, 276 The resplendent peaks of the Gran Parque Nacional Sierra Maestra are home to hilltop communities of campesinos, the country folk who work and farm the land and form part of the social fabric of Cuba. The rich earth and rolling fields of Granma Province have been given over to agriculture, with coffee serving as its principal export. These peaceful, pastoral landscapes belie the region s connection to the revolutionary history of the country. Remote and isolated, Granma Province (named for the yacht that brought Fidel Castro back from exile to his native land) is a mix of verdant countryside, forested mountains and provincial cities. 254, 256, 258, 259 Holguín Province is verdant and scenic, studded with mogotes and idyllic beaches along its northern coast. A small cayo, or key, surrounded by fishermen s nets, located in the Bay of Bariay in the northern coast of Holguín Province. Mangrove forests cover much of Holguín s northern coastline and its cays. Tropical beaches, coral reefs teeming with marine life, and expansive resorts have made Guardalavaca a popular tourist destination since the 1970s. 277, 278, 280, 281 This scenic landscape shrouded in mist is also shrouded in history. It was near this spot that national hero Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, from his plantation at La Demajagua, issued his Grito de Yara, the war cry that proclaimed Cuba s independence from Spain. Parque Céspedes is the heart of Manzanillo. The elegant plaza boasts a glorieta, or gazebo, modeled after the Alhambra s Patio de Los Leones, and is bordered by the city s municipal museum and the neoclassical Iglesia de la Purísima Concepción. The port city of Manzanillo is far off the beaten path, even for out-of-the-way Granma. But this quaint destination has its charms. It s been historically known for fishing, smuggling and, of all things, street organs. Primarily a fishing community, Manzanillo is also one of the main ports of Granma Province, although large cargo ships don t come here anymore. Its isolation and relatively meager tourist attractions also make it a very budgetfriendly option for travelers. Mega resorts are a typical sight along the pristine beaches of Holguín s north coast; Playa Esmeralda, on the edge of Bahía de Naranjo, is no exception. The sprawling Hotel Riu Playa Turquesa faces the white-sand beaches and turquoise waters of Playa Yuraguanal. The beachfront Hotel Brisas Guardalavaca is a sprawling all-inclusive resort that boasts over 400 rooms and numerous facilities, including six restaurants, nine bars and a host of activities and entertainment for the family. Catamaran snorkeling trips, like the one offered by Ocean Paradise, are a popular tourist activity along Holguín s resortlined northern coast. 260, 262, 264, 266 282, 284, 284, 285 Río Cauto is the longest river in Cuba, and its mouth opens into this stunning network of lagoons in the Gulf of Guacanayabo. 414 Nestled amid rugged mountains, San Isidro de Holguín is Cuba s fourth largest city. Known as the City of Parks for its many plazas, it s a culturally vibrant destination as well as the producer of Cuba s four most well known beers. Pedestrians enjoy strolling down Calle Libertad, one of the main arteries through Holguín s historic center. A view of the Delfinario Bahía Naranjo, a nature park where you can see dolphin and seal shows, and Hotel Villa Cayo Naranjo, at dusk. The manmade aquarium in the open water is a wonderful place to swim with dolphins. Holguín is known as Cuba s granary for its fertile lands and diversified agriculture, which includes corn, beans, tobacco, sugar cane and cattle. 415
Cuban authorities created a special Arriba Cuba map for me. I had to strictly adhere to it and shoot only within designated areas. The Making of this Book How It All Began I fell in love with photography as a child, when I learned to play with cameras during my father s archeological expeditions. That passion carried through into my professional life, and in 2006 I published Unseen Lithuania, my first photography book. In two years it became a bestseller in my country, inspiring me to continue my work as an author and photographer; two years later I published Heavenly Belize. After it also became a bestseller in its home country, I decided to take on the largest and most challenging (if not entirely impossible) project of my career. Thus the idea of Unseen Cuba was born. I arrived in Cuba for the first time in 2010. As I was showing copies of my published work to local officials, I noticed how they admired the photos. Nevertheless, no one believed that it would be possible to produce such a book about this country. For the raw idea to come to maturity, I have to thank and give great credit to Sergio Gonzáles, who at the time was the Cuban ambassador to Finland, Latvia and Estonia. Sergio believed in the project, and his confidence spurred me on and helped me through many difficult moments. He visited my exhibition of Cuban photographers in Vilnius, and we soon became friends. The greatest surprise was that his brother, Roberto, would later become my pilot. It was a wonderful coincidence. I hardly imagine there exists anyone else in the world who knows Cuba better than Roberto and I. Together we have canvassed this country from one end to the other. Cuba Libre and the Rules One of the most famous cocktails in the world is the Cuba Libre ( Free Cuba ), a mix of Cuban rum and American Coca-Cola. For me, the name took on a paradoxical quality; I could not have imagined just how challenging this project was going to be, or how far from libre I would be to achieve my goals. If I were asked today to undertake another photography project in this incredible country, I d have to consider it very carefully, because there are no clear rules in Cuba. And many times when you find ways to overcome the obstacles in your path, you can t even explain how you did it. When I first began this undertaking, I naively thought that, as an impartial foreigner, I would be able to secure the needed permissions to take aerial photos of the country without too many complications or setbacks. And before traveling to Cuba, I consulted with people who knew the country better than I. One of them, the Lithuanian journalist Algimantas Čekuolis, remarked that in Cuba, Rum is plenty, but what is lacking is freedom by a huge margin. In addition, two Lithuanian businessmen who had been looking to start a tobacco trade with the country warned me that projects move slowly and agreements are forgotten easily. I soon learned what they meant. This creation of this book involved navigating the turbulent waters of local bureaucracy and slicing through a near-inexhaustible supply of red tape. After nearly five years, it has levied a hefty tribute of time, money and nerves. We do everything seriously and methodically, a Cuban official once told me. That proved only too true! The First Foray For my first visit to Havana in 2010, I have to thank Irina Cascaret, a travel agent, translator and coordinator who organizes guided tours to Cuba for Lithuanian businessmen and tourists. At first I was surprised by her Russian name, but later I learned that there are many Vladimirs, Ilyichs and Vostoks in Cuba. Irina s help could not change the rules by which this country operates. On that first trip, I arranged business visits with ministries, artist and photographers associations, the Council of Heritage and similar institutions. And at first, it seemed that everything was going smoothly and successfully. I was kindly welcomed and attentively heard. Many officials even nodded approvingly at everything I said. I had brought copies of my other photography books with me, and my Cuban contacts were fascinated with my recently published work, Unseen Belize. They enthusiastically congratulated me on my work and expressed their profound interest in Cuba being the subject of my next book. I was confident that their interest was genuine and honest. As I never asked for any money and promised that my publishing company, Unseen Pictures, would finance the entire project, I had high hopes for success. However, although my work Meetings at the Ministry of Culture were usually attended by representatives of the military and many other institutions. 422 423
was well received for its artistic value and quality, I could see that the locals felt books. I was then invited on one of Havana s radio talk shows for an interview about my plans to take pictures of Cuba from the air. it would be a miracle if someone (it did not matter whether they were Cuban or foreign) received permission to fly over the country to take pictures. My books and the project impressed Liliana Núñez Velis, the daughter of Antonio Núñez Jimenes, a famous Cuban scientist and geographer. Her father was an associate of Fidel Castro who, after the revolution, established the Foundation for Nature and Humanity. After his death, his daughter took over as head of the organization. The people I met promised to send me the required instructions to get permission to take aerial photos of Cuba. For more than four years, these instructions never came. No project can be started without the knowledge of the highest authorities in Cuba, one of these officials mysteriously whispered. This must have been true: wherever I went, everybody seemed to be waiting for permission from a mysterious higher power. Liliana invited me over for a chat and told me about her father s activities, archive of photos, books and archaeological artifacts. I was surprised when she told me that Che Guevara himself was also a photographer. Liliana was very helpful and offered to write a recommendation letter to the Cuban Ministry of Culture, to which her foundation was a subordinate. With Pedro Monzón Barata at the Ministry of Culture, after signing an agreement on June 21, 2010. According to the contract, the Ministry agreed to supervise my project. A Test of Patience The misunderstandings and obstacles began early on in the project. I learned that, in order to be authorized to take pictures of Cuba, it was necessary for me to have a work visa and not a simple tourist card. Moreover, even with a work visa I still needed to secure permission from the Cuban Air Force to take off and no such access had ever before been granted to a foreign citizen. My endless meetings proved so fruitless that I switched tack and applied to Gaviota Group, a Cuban army-owned company that manages a network of hotels and arranges air travel for wealthy tourists who want to explore the island s coastline. Thanks to Liliana, I met with Pedro Monzón Barata, the head of the Foreign Affairs Department at the Cuban Ministry of Culture. I had counted on the Ministry of Tourism s support for this project, but unexpectedly it was the Ministry of Culture that became more interested in the book. After two months (in Cuba, this is record time), we signed a cooperation agreement. The ministry promised to coordinate the permissions and help organize the logistics of the project, and I pledged to donate 500 copies of the published book. I also promised to let them review all the photos I d take, strictly follow the flight plan I was granted, and shoot only those areas for which permits were issued. Liliana Núñez Velis was instrumental in helping me secure the support of the Ministry of Culture. One hour-long flight in a huge Russian Mi-8 helicopter and almost $2,000 USD later, I was rewarded with my first opportunity to take aerial pictures of Havana s coastline (a flight over the city itself was out of the question!). I didn t use any of those pictures for my book, due to the poor morning light, but the experience taught me that my Cuba project would cost me more than a bar of gold if I paid this much for every hour of flying time. I realized that I would have to resort to other methods and find new ways to overcome these difficulties. The Search for Wings I began making regular visits to the Ministry of Culture and one of its subsidiaries called Paradiso. This company was responsible for supervising my project and for coordinating any payments I had to make to other Cuban enterprises and organizations. Now all I needed was to find a flying device that would be acceptable to the Cuban airspace controllers, the military and the civil aviation authorities. While flying and photographing in other countries, I often used ultralight trikes made by Airborne, an Australian company. I decided that the only way to make this project happen was to buy my own ultralight. I placed the order for one to be manufactured and shipped from Australia to Cuba. This was the first of many tests that Cuba had in store for me. In retrospect, I can see that this project, and this country, have made me a more patient man. After I relaxed and started to work within the system, things began to progress much more smoothly. Che Guevara Was a Photographer Too Each stage of the project took a long time. Before booking the ultralight, I had to confirm that I would be able to import, register and operate the craft. I also had to find out the technical requirements of the Civil Aviation Institute. These procedures took several months. As part of my efforts to gain greater visibility for my project, I organized a seminar for Cuban photographers in May 2010. It proved to be a good idea; the local press, artists and celebrities were interested in the event. I talked about aerial photography and showcased my 424 425
Beware of the Northern Neighbor While waiting for the technical requirements with which my ultralight had to comply, I created and published a book of aerial photographs of Cancún and the Riviera Maya, the resort region of Mexico s Yucatán Peninsula. During one of my many meetings, I showed my new book to officials in the Ministry of Culture and allowed myself to joke about how things were going so slow in Cuba that, while waiting merely for a few tech specs, I managed to produce and publish a whole book on a neighboring country. There were some 20 participants in that meeting, and one of them countered: It is not that we are slow in Cuba. We are very thorough and methodical! We have to make sure you won t be causing any danger for our country with your flying little trike. One must never forget that the northern neighbor is breathing down our necks! A group of friends from Lithuania came together for the photographic exhibition of Unseen Lithuania in February, 2011. The officials wanted to be sure that, while flying over Cuba with my ultralight, I wouldn t perform any unauthorized activities like distributing leaflets or dropping biological weapons. Their suspicion effectively eliminated all the humor from the proceedings, especially since I had already invested too much time and money, only to have my project still be on hold. Don t Send Anything Through the US After receiving the technical requirements, Airborne informed me that I would receive my custom-made ultralight within 35 days. However, it turned out that the shipment could only be made via a direct route to Cuba. It had to be transported without entering any US port, and it also could not be transshipped. Another obstacle occurred when Cuban officials delayed to decide and let me know to which address the ultralight had to be sent. One of the strongest supporters of my project since the very beginning was the Cuban Club of Aviation. With Lugo Fonte, general director of the ANAP (Asociación Nacional de Agricultores Pequeños de Cuba, a union of small farmers). As I was already familiar with how long decisions take in Cuba, I decided to take a risk and find the receiving party myself. I discovered the company Aviaimport in the Cuban Yellow Pages. It sounded appropriate, so I listed its address as the receiver. And only after the ultralight was on its way from Australia and there was nothing to be changed did I inform the local authorities that an expensive package was coming to the Havana-based Aviaimport. The trick worked, and I finally understood how things function in Cuba: It s better to act first and then explain in other words, it s better to ask forgiveness than permission! Lithuania in Havana February 16, 2011 marked Lithuania s Independence Day, and I organized an exhibition of my native country s photographs in Fototeca de Cuba, Havana s photography museum. I invited close to 200 influential citizens of the capital and presented Unseen Lithuania and a collection of 40 oversized prints at the event. Some 30 friends of mine from Lithuania came to Cuba for this exhibition. The book made a big impression among the Cuban attendees it was mentioned in the press, radio, and TV, and Havana s artist community was talking about it. The news about my previous work and the possible book of aerial photography on Cuba had started to spread. The PR move worked; after two more months I finally got all the requirements from Cuba s Civil Aviation Institute about what aircrafts were allowed to fly over the country. But this wasn t the last of the bureaucratic obstacles I would have to overcome. The Missing Pilot It took more than two months for the ultralight to travel from Australia to Cuba. Along the way, some of its cabling and contacts got rusted from humidity and improper storage. And then, after the long trip, the aircraft got stuck in Havana s customs for another two months. Moreover, I was told that there was no certificated specialist in Cuba who could assemble the ultralight and test-fly it. As far as I understood, there were enough experienced technicians, but under the requirements it had to be a specialist with a certificate to assemble and try out exactly this particular aircraft. 426 427
A special ultralight trike was custombuilt for this project in Australia by the company Airborne. Our team: my son Vincent, pilot Roberto Gonzalez and technician Ariel Govin. I invited Robert Combs, an American pilot with whom I had flown on trips to Hawaii and Belize. It was agreed that before Robert s arrival, the ultralight would be cleared through customs and taken to the aviation base in the town of Colón, but this did not happen. We successfully authorized Robert as a recognized Cuban civil aviation pilot and instructor, but because of the delay in Cuban customs, Robert could not wait any longer and had to return to Belize. It was a costly setback. When the ultralight finally cleared customs, Robert disappeared unexpectedly and did not return my calls or emails. I was in trouble on two fronts: my ultralight was unassembled and my certified pilot had vanished. I couldn t think of any logical explanation to give to Cuban officials about his whereabouts, especially after I had vouched for him. I flew to Belize to search for Robert but he was nowhere to be found. I returned to Cuba and invented a tale that my pilot had unexpected family problems. Now I needed to find a new pilot; I could have asked Airborne for a specialist, but I didn t want to take any further risks and work with strangers. I decided instead to ask Lithuanian pilot Artūras Laukys to go with me to Cuba. I had already flown with Artūras over Lithuania in 2007. He was not only a very experienced pilot and instructor but also a very good mechanic. He had designed and built a few ultralights himself, so I had no doubts that even under difficult circumstances, Artūras could help me. Aviation and authorized to assemble and test my ultralight. Finally, we were able to set out for Colón, which was about 3 hours from Havana by car. It was raining all week in Colón. Artūras led a team of mechanics who constructed the ultralight, and we finally started it. But because of the bad weather, we were afraid that our first test flight wouldn t happen. We stayed in a town called Varadero and drove for 4 hours back and forth every day under the pouring rain in the hopes of conducting our allimportant first flight. Cuba suffered heavy flooding that June of 2012, and the sky did not show any chance of clearing. Later I calculated that I flew more than 6,000 miles in Cuba s airspace, but drove more than 30,000 miles on the island s roads. In the end, we successfully assembled the ultralight. Artūras trained our Cuban pilot, Roberto González, on how to control this particular aircraft Roberto already knew how to pilot a similar type of ultralight. On the day the special commission arrived from Havana with our approval that it was safe to fly, the sky was overcast, but luckily a small break formed in the clouds, and Artūras and Roberto took off at last. Our radio didn t work, but the commission still signed the approval that we now had the right to fly, and that the aircraft met all safety requirements. The Airborne XT-912 is a very reliable and quite simple ultralight with a Rotax motor. It can fly for 5-6 hours at approximately 55-60 mph. The pilot sits in the front with the passenger in the back. It s hard to take pictures because of the wing and cables, but after extensive practice I found a way to do it. I had more than 100 hours of experience with this type of aircraft in Hawaii, Belize, Australia, Lithuania and Italy, among other destinations. In each of these countries, the civil aviation authority treats them as simple experimental aircrafts that are very simple to operate often it is not even required to have a flight plan, radio or transponder. And usually the owner is both the pilot and mechanic of the ultralight, as its maintenance is almost equal to that of a motorcycle. A pilot instructor and an exceptionally skilled technician, Artūras Laukys came from Lithuania to help me out. The First Flight Artūras and I came to Havana and we got Artūras certified with unexpected speed and efficiency. He became an instructor pilot recognized by the Cuban Civil Once, after we had finished photographing, we took my son, Vincent, for a flight. 428 429
Of course, things in Cuba are different. In the eyes of the civil aviation authorities, my ultralight was seen almost as a Boeing every flight had to be registered, the flight plan had to be filed the day before each flight, and we had to have radar and a transponder. Moreover, aviation inspectors required that the ultralight must be maintained by a separate mechanic (who also had to have the flight plan register), and frequent fuel tests had to be conducted to make sure there was no water in it. That s how the technician joined our team. His name was Ariel Govin, and he was a friendly, lively and professional person. An additional member of the team meant more expense, but I ve never had any regrets about Ariel, who was very attentive and also ensured the safety of our flights. break I found out that ENSA had undergone a restructuring and was now reporting to a higher body. The new management decided to evaluate my project again. A new committee was formed to verify the suitability of the ultralight, and an inspector was dispatched to reevaluate the competence of my pilot and technician. During the two years of flights, Ariel and Roberto became true members of my family. During our free time we used to be very active: a couple of times we climbed the El Yunque mountain near Baracoa. Crazy Prices After the test flight In June 2012, it seemed that we would be able fly over the whole island. Unfortunately, we were mired in negotiations with ENSA, the National Air Services Provider for Cuba. We reached an agreement with ENSA that allowed me to operate my ultralight using their resources and infrastructure for the duration of the project. They also gave me a pilot, mechanics, runways, and any required maintenance and servicing. However, they wanted to charge an exorbitant and unacceptable price for their services, regardless of whether I was in Cuba or not. Due to my other business projects and my family, I usually travel for about two weeks before returning to Lithuania. If I could have stayed in Cuba for a half year, maybe I would have been able to accept the ENSA s proposed prices. Unfortunately I knew that I would have to come and go from Cuba at least for a couple of years. Also I wanted to capture the island at different times of the year. Besides, I knew from experience that sometimes it takes weeks to wait for the perfect weather for flying and taking photos. So, I had to find the best financial solution for these working conditions. While in negotiations with ENSA, all certificates and permissions were canceled, and I had to go back to the ministries. I was required to insure my ultralight for the entire year and not for the duration of my work. The national insurance company asked for a payment that was almost one third of the cost of the ultralight. They only lowered the price after I showed them how much the insurance for the craft cost in European countries and the US. In the end we came to terms with ENSA, and it looked like there were no more setbacks but they seemed to appear all the time out of nowhere! For example, after a two-month Breaking the Ice In the beginning of the project, when I signed the cooperation agreement with the Ministry of Culture, I was given a map that specified where I was allowed to fly and take pictures. I had to adhere strictly to this map without flying anywhere else. Unfortunately, none of Cuba s cities were included in the map, despite the fact that anyone could see these areas in detail simply by using Google Earth. It was difficult to imagine the book without any pictures of Cuba s main cities. Fortunately, I had by now understood that some forbidden actions could be carried out, as long as they were done quietly and only after you waited patiently for your chance. Romper el hielo is a Cuban expression that means, to break the ice. If you re able to do something once, the next time the same task may require less effort and will be easier to carry out. I managed to take pictures of cities like Holguín because we had to pass through part of the city while taking off, thanks to wind direction and the city s proximity to the airport. It was an innocent excuse, but sometimes I would tell the Air Traffic Control Center that I was a distracted foreigner who forgot the right camera lens, so we had to land and take off again. I decided to arrange a small presentation to Ministry of Culture officials and show them how my work was progressing and what the book was going to look like. I included pictures of some of the bigger cities and asked them to consider my request again The Airborne ultralight with Rotax motor is a very reliable little aircraft. 430 431
and allow me to fly over Santiago, Camagüey, and especially Havana. I think I convinced them that the photographs were merely artistic and Three Remaining Photos did not include any forbidden objects, because eventually I received permission to photograph most of Cuba s cities. Even though it looks small on the map, Cuba is a big, long country that spans more than 700 miles from end to end. My style of photography requires mild, yellowish or reddish early morning or late evening light that can be found in Cuba s latitudes about one hour after sunrise and hour before sunset. Later, the sun is too high, too harsh, the shadows disappear, and everything looks like a map or an image from Google Earth. In my opinion, such images have little artistic value and are more a type of technical illustration. That s why the photo shoots took almost two years to complete. Roberto Gonzalez is probably the best pilot I have ever flown with. Unfortunately, Havana remained off limits. I was told that flying over the capital was strictly forbidden, and no miracle would change that rule. However, after a few more months, in April 2014, I was allowed to take pictures of Havana as well. For the first time, I could envision the end of the project. A special route was created which indicated where we could fly over the capital. The pilot had to report every three minutes on what building we were flying over. Moreover, Roberto was summoned to the air force base and specially trained in what directions and height he could fly in, and what was forbidden. I had finally broken the ice, and there were no further obstacles standing in the way of the project. We started to photograph over Varadero, and later traveled over the northern coast until we reached Baracoa. From there we traveled to Guantánamo before continuing along the road back to Havana. At every spot, we stayed in private houses (casa particular), where we spent anywhere from a couple of nights to a couple of weeks. Everything was controlled by nature and by the gods of Cuban aviation. Ariel Govin is a very experienced aviation technician. He meticulously prepared our ultralight for every single flight. Toward the end of the project I discovered that ENSA was not paid by Paradiso, the company through which I paid all service providers in Cuba. Employees of the company explained that they had run out of money, even though I had transferred a larger amount than was agreed upon. We reached Havana at last in April 2014. I has already secured the permissions to shoot over the capital and had four days to take marvelous pictures with both morning and evening light. From Havana we flew to Pinar del Río, where we had to photograph the Viñales Valley in the western part of Cuba to complete our shooting. Unpredicted obstacles were really frustrating, and moreover were stopping the work. Once I even threatened to list the names of all those who impeded my work and negligently performed their duties in the book. After that, the requisite funds appeared immediately and were transferred to ENSA so I could continue my flights. When I took my kids with me to Cuba, they quickly became good friends with Roberto and Ariel, and often would befriend local children. Unfortunately, we ran into an unexpected problem. When everything was almost done and only three photos were missing, the weather took a turn for the worse, with strong winds and pouring rain. It was very difficult to cope with the idea that I would have to go back home and then come back again just for those three pictures, but I couldn t produce the book without Cuba s magnificent Viñales Valley, a UNSECO World Heritage Site. In spite of the bad weather we tried to fly, but only ended up taking a big risk in vain. Irina Cascaret became my project manager and main coordinator from my very first trip to Cuba. The morning before our departure to the airport, officials from the Ministry of Internal Affairs arrived. Apparently some of their offices were not aware of the shooting and had received reports about a possible foreign spy who captured Cuba from the air. My pilot and I were taken in for interrogation. I was questioned nicely but very slyly. One officer told me he was interested in photography and asked how it was possible to transfer the pictures from my modern camera to a mobile phone, how many times the image can be zoomed in, and whether it was possible to take pictures in the dark, among other questions. By a stroke of ill luck, I had forgotten my passport at home. When I told the officials that I could come back with it immediately, they did not allow me to do so and said that they 432 433
would find the document on their own. Finally my interrogators left after writing a protocol of interrogation. However, when I returned to Cuba after two months, I found out that legends were being whispered around about a foreigner who, with the help of two Cubans, was flying illegally. The officers had allegedly caught him dismantling the aircraft and trying to flee the country. The story sounds funny now, but at the time it brought a lot of unnecessary mess to the already chaotic process of issuing permits to fly. After a two-month break, we took off and started to fly over Viñales to get my last photos, only to be ordered to land immediately. Because of the story circulating about me and my project, someone had decided to reexamine the legality of my project. We had to wait two hours for a permit to fly. My wife Brigita and I visited the most beautiful spots in Western Cuba. It was wonderful: I would fly in the early morning and late evening, but during the day I d spend time with my son, playing football, teaching him to read and count. Ariel taught him to play baseball and Roberto played UNO with him. Ariel and Roberto were a great help in taking care of my children, Vincent and Maria Isabel. They are experts at entertaining kids and playing with them! The weather in June 2014 was favorable and I secured my remaining pictures. The photographic part of the project was now complete, and I began the process of editing, designing and writing the book, and preparing it for printing. On one trip I took both Vincent and my ten-year-old daughter Maria Isabel. Our family is used to traveling with children. We always travel with my wife Brigita, but this time she stayed in Lithuania with our one-year-old baby Antanas. It s not difficult at all to travel with two children in Cuba. They played together and of course made friends with Ariel and Roberto immediately. Unfortunately, Maria got food poisoning with coconut water. She was sick for days and had to be treated at the children s hospital in Santiago de Cuba. The Cuban doctors who diagnosed her were real professionals, and within three hours she was feeling better. The Role of A Single Dad This journey became very precious to me because I had more opportunities to be alone with my children. I learned how to be a single dad. Being away for more than a week without my family was always a burden for me. That s why I try to take them with me wherever I go, but it s not always possible. Once I had to spend three weeks in Cuba, and I took my five-year-old son, Vincent, so I would not long for home. My son Vincent learned to read, count, play football and baseball in Cuba. The weeks I spent with my children in Cuba will remain as some of the most precious memories of my lifetime. A fair-haired blond boy, Vincent has become a star in Cuba. Cubans love children very much and most of them are very dedicated to their families. Ariel immediately developed a strong bond with Vincent and became a very good nanny. My son had to get up at 5 o clock in the morning and go with us to the runway. While Roberto and I were flying, Vincent stayed with Ariel on the ground. After we completed our work in one destination, we flew to another one, with Ariel and Vincent packing our baggage and following us by car. About the Equipment I taught Vincent to say a few useful phrases in Spanish, like tengo hambre ( I m hungry ) and tengo sueño ( I m sleepy ). He soon learned to count and identify colors in Spanish. Ariel also had to learn some Lithuanian to understand when a child wants to stop and go to the bathroom or to call dad. All the pictures for this book were taken using Nikon cameras. I used D3, D3S or D800 E cameras. Sometimes I flew with three cameras hanging on my neck, but two were usually enough. One was equiped with a Nikor 24-70, the other with a 14-24 Nikor ultra-wide-angle lens. For shooting the details I used a Nikor 200-400 telephoto lens, but working with it in the air was extremely difficult because of its weight and size. After every flight, I transferred RAW format pictures to an Apple MacBook Pro computer. For the selection I used Adobe Lightroom. I collected a total of 50,000 shots. Because of the constant shaking of the ultralight, it proved nearly impossible to shoot high-quality video. While photographing in Lithuania, I found a way to shoot 1-2 frames per second, which I later converted into a stabilized video. I did the same with Cuba s photo material. Examples can be found on YouTube and by downloading Unseen Cuba from Apple itunes and other online stores. 434 435
My travels to Cuba with my kids have become some of the strongest and most lasting memories of the whole project. All the pictures were taken while flying in an Australian ultralight Airborne XT-912 with Cruize type wing. The ultralight was new, custom-made for this project, and equipped with radio communication, transponder and even a spare parachute in case of emergency. The average flying height was about 300 feet. Our top height was 1.2 miles, which we reached while flying over Cuba s highest peak, Pico Turquino, in southeastern Cuba. On average, each flight took 1-1½ hours. Low light pictures were taken from the roof of the Capitolio (it took three months to get permission to take pictures from there) and one of the highest structures in Havana: the Focsa Building. ENSA s team was very professional. Ariel carefully maintained and prepared the ultralight for every flight. Roberto is one of the best pilots I have ever flown with. Even though we followed the operations manual and flew only in good weather, there were times when we had to experience surprises, air holes, turbulence, sudden winds, and a change in the clouds. However, with Roberto at the helm I felt safe and never worried that the shoot would be compromised. All in all, two years of working together made us like a family. that stretches from the Atlantic Ocean to the Caribbean Sea and connects Baracoa with the southern coast of the country. Roberto and Ariel helped me a lot. They accompanied me by car with a trunk loaded with coconuts, bananas and sweet potatoes. I also managed to do an olympic distance triathlon between Trinidad and Cienfuegos. On another occasion, we organized a half Ironman triathlon from Varadero to Havana. It included 1.2m of swimming, 56m of cycling and 13m of running. All in all, I ran some 620 miles and cycled more than 1,240 miles. Since we weren t usually stationed by the sea, I didn t have many opportunities to swim. Instead, I brought my strength exercise equipment to Cuba: resistance bands, belts and dumbbells that I bought in Havana. Often while waiting for my team to prepare the flight, I would unroll the yoga mat and do flexibility exercises. Not only did my exercises allow me to spend my time between governmental meetings more constructively, but they also increased my fitness to quite a high degree. After my last trip to Cuba I competed in and finished my first Ironman Ultra Triathlon in July 2014! Running under the hot Cuban sun helped me prepare for triathlons in hot climates. Fitness and a Healthy Lifestyle I m an avid triathlete and enjoy leading an active lifestyle. When the mornings were cloudy, rainy or otherwise unsuitable for flying, I would spend my time running or cycling. If we would fly out in the morning, upon landing I would change into a sport suit and spend my time running home or discovering a new route. Sometimes I had to train in the hot, midday Cuban sun, but it helped me to adapt to triathlons in hot climates. With the help of Roberto and Ariel, I ran and cycled hundreds of miles. They would follow me in a car fully loaded with coconuts, bananas and sweet potatoes. I brought my bike to Cuba. Ariel used it while I wasn t there, and Roberto also began jogging or hiking a little bit. This is how I included my team in sports activities, encouraged them to eat more vegetables, and not take sugar with their coffee. I m a vegan, so while traveling I also try to promote healthy nutrition and lifestyle. While in Cuba, I ran my first ultra marathon of 33 miles through the mountainous La Farola road 436 437
A unique view of Cuba s timeless landscapes and cityscapes, never before photographed from the air COLLECTOR S EDITION Marius Jovaiša is a photographer, publisher, entrepreneur and founder of publishing house Unseen Pictures. Born in Vilnius, Lithuania in 1973, he is the author of five large-format aerial photography books: Unseen Lithuania (2008), Heavenly Belize (2010), Magic Cancun & Riviera Maya (2011), Heavenly Yucatan (2012) and Unseen Cuba (2015). World-famous for his distinct style of aerial photography, Jovaiša has been granted permission to fly over and take pictures of destinations that have never before been accessible to photographers. His exhibitions have been displayed in more than 20 countries across Europe, Asia and the Americas. More information about Jovaiša s work and other titles is available at www.unseenpictures.lt. Collector s 2nd edition, 2015 The bestselling author of Unseen Lithuania and other aerial photography guides covering Belize, Cancún and the Yucatán, Lithuanian aerial photographer and publisher Marius Jovaiša invites you on an unprecedented photographic journey that captures the breathtaking vistas of Cuba as never seen before. As the first artist to receive permission from the Cuban government to fly over the country and photograph it, he brings you extraordinary panoramas taken from an ultralight aircraft. Jovaiša canvasses the island, from the fertile valleys of Pinar del Río in the west to the historic city of Baracoa in the east, where Columbus landed. Explore ancient villages, idyllic beaches, cities frozen in time and picturesque La Habana. Celebrate the tropical exuberance, bucolic charm and natural grandeur that characterize the largest island of the Caribbean s Greater Antilles. Discover Unseen Cuba. Visit our website www.unseencuba.com ISBN 978-609-8022-17-9