VENICE AN ARCHITECTURAL GUIDE
Venice AN ARCHITECTURAL GUIDE Richard J. Goy YALE UNIVERSITY PRESS NEW HAVEN AND LONDON
VENICE IN PERIL For every copy sold, a donation from the author s royalties will be made to Venice in Peril Contents Copyright 2010 by Richard J. Goy Preface Acknowledgements Map of Venice ix xiii xiv All rights reserved. This book may not be reproduced, in whole or in part, in any form (beyond that copying permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law and except by reviewers for the public press), without written permission from the publishers. Designed by Emily Lees Printed in China Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Goy, Richard J. (Richard John), 1947 Venice : city guide / Richard Goy. p. cm. Includes bibliographical references and index. ISBN 978 0 300 14882 4 (cl : alk. paper) 1. Architecture Italy Venice Guidebooks. 2. Venice (Italy) Guidebooks. I. Title. NA1121.V4G679 2010 720.945 311 dc22 2009054058 A catalogue record for this book is available from The British Library Frontispiece: Palazzo Ducale cortile loggia VENICE: THE MOST SERENE REPUBLIC 1 Introduction 3 THE BUILDINGS OF VENICE 21 Sestiere of Castello 22 1 San Pietro in Castello, Sant Ana and San Isepo 28 2 The Napoleonic Transformations and the Biennale Gardens; Sant Elena 33 3 From Via Garibaldi to the Arsenale 39 4 The Arsenale 43 5 From the Arsenale to San Francesco de la Vigna 50 6 From Santa Giustina to the Scuola degli Schiavoni 56 7 Sant Antonin and the Greci 59 8 Bragora and Environs 62 9 The Riva degli Schiavoni 64 10 Santi Filippo e Giacomo and San Zaninovo 67 11 San Provolo and San Zaccaria 70 12 Palazzo Querini Stampalia and Ruga Giuffa 74 13 From Palazzo Priuli to San Lorenzo 79 14 Santa Maria Formosa (1) 81
15 La Fava and San Lio 84 16 Santa Maria Formosa (2) and Santa Marina 88 17 Santa Maria Formosa (3) and San Giovanni Laterano 91 18 Barbaria de le Tole and the Ospedaleto 92 19 Santi Giovanni e Paolo, the Scuola Grande di San Marco, the Ospedale Civile and San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti 95 Sestiere of Cannaregio 106 1 From the Ferrovia to Palazzo Labia 112 2 The Cannaregio Canal 118 3 The Gheto 122 4 San Lunardo and San Marcuola 127 5 La Madalena and Santa Fosca 131 6 The Former Convent of the Servi (Servites) and Environs 136 7 From San Marziale to San Girolamo 138 8 The Riformati and Sant Alvise; Rio de la Sensa 142 9 Rio de la Madona de l Orto 146 10 Valverde and the Scuole de la Misericordia 151 11 From San Felice to Palazzo Papafava 156 12 The Strada Nova (1) and the Ca d Oro 158 13 Santa Sofia and the Strada Nova (2) 163 14 Santi Apostoli and Environs 166 15 The Gesuiti and Santa Caterina 169 16 The Fondamente Nove (1) and Birri 173 17 From San Canzian to Ca da Mosto 175 18 San Giovanni Grisostomo and the House of Marco Polo 178 19 Santa Maria Nova and Santa Maria dei Miracoli 183 20 From Palazzo Soranzo Van Axel to the Fondamente Nove (2) 186 Sestiere of San Marco 190 The Piazza and Piazzetta 194 The Basilica of San Marco 197 The Doge s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) 211 Buildings On and Around the Piazza 225 Buildings On and Around the Piazzetta 232 1 From San Zulian to San Moisè 236 2 San Fantin and the Fenice 240 3 From Calle Larga xxii Marzo to San Maurizio 243 4 Santo Stefano (1): Palazzo Pisani, Palazzo Loredan and San Vidal 249 5 From San Vidal to San Samuele and Palazzo Grassi 254 6 From the Mocenigo Palaces to Santo Stefano 257 7 Santo Stefano (2): the Church and Monastery 259 8 From Sant Anzolo to Palazzo Pesaro Fortuny 260 9 From San Luca to the Riva del Carbon 263 10 San Salvador and the Scuola Grande de San Todaro 270 11 San Bartolomeo, the Fondaco dei Tedeschi and the Rialto Bridge 273 Sestiere of San Polo 278 1 The Island of Rialto 282 2 San Silvestro and Sant Aponal 287 3 From San Cassan to San Polo (1) 292 4 San Polo (2): the Church, Ca Corner and Palazzi Soranzo 295 5 From Campo San Boldù to San Giovanni Evangelista 299 6 From Campo San Stin to San Tomà 303 7 Campo dei Frari and the Frari Church 308 8 San Rocco: the Church and Scuola Grande 314 Sestiere of Santa Croce 320 1 The Tolentini and the Tereni Nuovi 324 2 Piazzale Roma and San Simon Piccolo 328 3 Rio Marin, San Simon Grando and Bari 331 4 San Giacomo da l Orio and San Zan Degolà 333 5 San Stae and Palazzo Mocenigo 338 6 Ca Pesaro and Santa Maria Mater Domini 341 Sestiere of Dorsoduro 348 1 The Dogana, the Salute and San Gregorio 352 2 The Zattere (1), Rio de la Fornace and Ca Dario 356 3 The Zattere (2), the Incurabili, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni 358 4 Sant Agnese, the Zattere (3), the Gesuati and La Visitazione 362 5 The Carità Church, the Scuola Grande and the Gallerie de l Accademia 365 6 From the Accademia to San Trovaso 367 7 Toleta, the Eremite and the Zattere (4) 370 8 San Sebastiano and the Anzolo Rafael (Angelo Raffaele) 373 9 Mendigola and Santa Marta 375 10 From Le Terese to the Tereni Nuovi 377 11 The Church and Scuola Grande dei Carmini 380 12 San Barnaba and Santa Margarita (1), Ca Rezzonico 384 13 Ca Giustinian, Ca Foscari and Santa Margarita (2) 391 14 San Pantalon and Palazzo Balbi 395
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