Greening the Global Supply Chain: The Role of InformaKon Transparency and Public ParKcipaKon

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1 Greening the Global Supply Chain: The Role of InformaKon Transparency and Public ParKcipaKon KATE LOGAN INSTITUTE OF PUBLIC & ENVIRONMENTAL AFFAIRS OCTOBER 2015

2 IPE Established in 2006 Database now contains official environmental viola2on records for 210, 000+ enterprises Green Supply Chain project has pushed nearly 2000 factories to implement correc2ve ac2ons

3

4 Typical Problems Wastewater Air Emissions Solid Waste Discharge does not meet discharge standards Discharge through hidden discharge pipes Incorrect or incomplete permits Emissions do not meet discharge standards Emissions control systems not run correctly PermiGng problems Improper storage, treatment and transfer of solid waste Typical Punishments: Temporary closure of facili2es or produc2on lines Orders to complete correc2ve ac2ons Fines

5 TexKle Industry InvesKgaKons à Series of reports focusing on such issues as the water intensiveness, management of main materials suppliers, implementa2on of discharge standards, and centralized wastewater treatment April 2012 October 2012 December 2013 December 2014

6 Dyeing and Finishing Sector is Extremely Water-, Energy-, and Chemical-Intensive

7 China manufactures about half of the world s texkles China s Contribu2on to Global Manufacturing of Select Goods Toys Color TVs Shoes BuXons Cement, steel, tex2les 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% China Rest of World Source: International Trade Statistics WTO.

8 Manufacturing is contribu2ng to pollu2on, but manufacturers are insufficiently engaged. Corpora2ons need to be involved and more transparent.

9 Green Choice Alliance Founded in March 2007 by 21 engos Green consump2on leads to green produc2on and procurement Number of par2cipa2ng engos has grown to 50 - Proposes that consumers use their purchasing power to influence corporakons - Calls on brands to green their supply chains 2014: Release of the first Corporate Informa=on Transparency Index (CITI) rankings of brands supply chain performance

10 CITI : Scope of evaluakon Assess 160+ brands across nine industry categories

11 CITI:Areas of evalua2on 1) Engagement and responsiveness 2) Compliance and correc2ve ac2ons 3) Extend green supply chain prac2ces 4) Data disclosure and transparency 5) Responsible recycling

12 CITI:Areas of evalua2on

13 CITI:Roadmap for Greening Supply Chains

14 GeZng started: What companies can use IPE viola2on database to screen suppliers Over 210,000 environmental viola2ons recorded

15 GeZng started: What companies can use Self-monitoring data from companies under special supervision E.g. Zhejiang province s real-2me informa2on plaeorms shows self-monitoring data from state-monitored enterprises

16 Compliance and CorrecKve AcKons Using third-party auditors to audit correc2ve ac2ons

17 Compliance and CorrecKve AcKons Key features of the GCA audit process: 1) Creates a level playing field to stop global procurement s race to the boxom 2) Transparency based on publicly-available governmentsource data on polluters 3) Use of market-based independent auditors with NGO par2cipa2on 4) Reduce mul2ple/repe22ous audits and associated cost & fa2gue 5) The power to work with the public

18 Extend Green Supply Chain PracKces IdenKfy and focus on the heaviest-pollukng sectors

19 Extend Green Supply Chain PracKces Brands push their suppliers to screen their suppliers, so Ker one suppliers screen Ker 2, and Ker 2 screen Ker 3 etc.

20 Data Disclosure & Transparency Push suppliers to use pollu2on release and transfer register (PRTR) system to self-report environmental data, GHG emissions and energy consump2on hxp://

21 Responsible Recycling Encourage brands to establish a recycling program and track used products For example, H&M is working to close the loop on tex2le fibers

22 CITI 2.0: Key Updates Engagement & Responsiveness (Formerly Communication & Follow-Up) Respond to questions about Communication on supply environmental violation records chain pollution problems 20 Respond to enquiries and engage with the public 12 Greater focus on compliance and implementa2on of correc2ve ac2ons Compliance & Corrective Actions Establish a screening mechanism to screen suppliers Establish a mechanism to screen suppliers for violations Push suppliers to take corrective actions and disclose actions taken Push suppliers to take corrective actions Push suppliers to disclose self-monitoring data 32 Push suppliers to manage wastewater discharged to centralized treatment facilities 36 Addi2on of indicator focusing on centralized wastewater treatment Extend Green Supply Chain Practices Prioritize suppliers with significant environmental impacts Identify, screen and manage high environmental impact suppliers Push suppliers to screen their own upstream suppliers 20 Push suppliers to screen their own upstream suppliers 22 Data disclosure & transparency à remove focus on companies segng their own targets; replace with focus on data transparency and PRTR Data Disclosure & Transparency Push suppliers to disclose emissions reduction targets and accomplishments Push suppliers to disclose energy and climate data Responsible Recycling (Formerly Recyling & Reuse) Establish global recycling program and track the waste 6 Establish recycling program and track used products 8 Push suppliers to disclose PRTR data Push suppliers to disclose PRTR data 22 22

23 CITI 2.0: Centralized Wastewater Treatment Push brands to take responsibility for wastewater discharged to centralized treatment plants Example: Saintyear s Wastewater Discharge Flowchart

24 CITI Evalua=on Criteria Respond to Enquiries Compliance & Correc=ons Establish Screening Mechanism Push for Correc2ons Centralized Wastewater Treatment Extend Green Supply Chain Responsiveness High- Impact Suppliers Push for Upstream Management Data Disclosure & Transparency Energy and Climate Data PRTR Recycling Recycling Used Products No. Brand /- 1 Adidas H&M Levi s M&S Wal-Mart Esquel Nike Uniqlo Puma Target ZARA Burberry New 13 Gap C&A IKEA Esprit Li-Ning Mizuno Total Score Ranking +/- Tex2le Industry Rankings 2015

25 19 Primark Ann Taylor JACK & JONES Timberland Toread Tommy Hilfiger Youngor G-Star The North Face Lee Jeans Carrefour Disney Calvin Klein BeneXon Tesco Lafuma Sears Kmart Armani Tex2le Industry Rankings 2015

26 34 Kate Spade Next Abercrombie & Fitch Lafuma HUGO BOSS Kappa Guess ANTA Cortefiel DKNY Victoria s Secret Macy's J.C. Penney Polo Ralph Lauren Tex2le Industry Rankings 2015

27 CITI 2.0: Achievements & Gaps Posi=ve Takeaways Green procurement greatly promotes pollu2on reduc2on Leading brands are coopera2ng to develop green supply chains Mul2-stakeholder coopera2on promotes social stability Key Gaps There s2ll exist significant discrepancies in brands implementa2on of green procurement Centralized wastewater treatment is a responsibility loophole in need of urgent axen2on Consumers have not yet ac2vely expressed their opinions and choices

28 Use new media and internet thinking to drive public parkcipakon and green consumpkon

29 Public ParKcipaKon: Blue Map App launched in June 2014 Achievements: 3 million+ downloads Best App of ios app store 500+ factories have responded and taken correc2ve ac2ons à Version 3.0 will integrate CITI informa2on to promote green consump2on

30 What is green consumpkon? Who are green consumers? Source: China Carbon Forum survey, 2015 à 73% of Chinese consumers are willing to pay a premium for green products à Media scare stories drive transparency among brands

31 Thanks for listening! Any ques2ons?

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