Contents. Working safely Page 3. Set up and Equipment Page 5 Consultation Page 6 -Communication Techniques -Texture and Porosity

Transcription

1 Colouring Manual

2 Contents Working safely Page 3 Set up and Equipment Page 5 Consultation Page 6 -Communication Techniques -Texture and Porosity -Hair and skin tests -White Hair - Factors to consider - Consultation Science Page 13 -Depths and Tones -Colour Star -Structure of hair -The Origin of Pigment -Hair Pigmentation -Lightening Curve -How Colour works within the hair structure -Peroxide selection Application Page 28 -Sectioning for Colouring -Semi-Permanent Colour -Regrowth Colour Application -Full head Colour application -Techniques for foiling -T section of woven high lights -Full head woven high lights -Bleach Regrowth Colour correction techniques Page 56 - Colour Refreshing - Lightening Techniques - Re-Colouring techniques Problems, Reasons and Remedies Page 60 Glossary of terms Page 62 Check board Page 65 Head sheets Page 66

3 Reflections Training Academy expect commitment from all learners to demonstrate key values and behaviours within all areas of theory, practical and within the workplace. These are reflected below:- Values A willingness to learn The completion of services in a commercially viable time Meeting both organisational and industry standards of appearance Ensuring personal hygiene and protection meets accepted industry an organisational requirements A flexible working attitude A team worker Maintaining customer care A positive attitude Personal and professional ethics The ability to self manage Creativity Skills Excellent verbal and non verbal communication skills The maintenance of effective, hygienic and safe working methods Adherence to workplace, suppliers or manufacturers instructions for the safe use of equipment, materials and products Behaviours Meeting the salons standards of behaviour Greeting the client respectfully and in a friendly manner Communicating with the client in a way that makes them feel valued and respected Identifying and confirming the clients expectations. Treating the client courteously and helpfully at all times Keeping the client informed and reassured Adapting the behaviour to respond effectively to different client behaviour Responding promptly to a client seeking assistance Selecting the most appropriate way of communicating with the client Checking with the client that you have fully understood their expectations Responding promptly and positivity to the clients questions and comments Allowing the client time to consider the response and give further explanation when appropriate Quickly locating information that will help the client Giving the client the information they need about the services or products offered by the salon Recognising information that the client might find complicated and checking whether they fully understand Explaining clearly to the clients any reasons why their needs or expectations cannot be met 3

4 Reflections Training Academy Maintain effective and safe methods of working Working safely in a clean and tidy environment minimises risk of harm and injury to yourself and others and prevents cross-contamination. It gives the client an image of professionalism while their hair is being coloured. Working Safely You must always protect your client during the colouring service with a fresh, clean gown, cape and towel. You should wear gloves when using and applying colouring products, to prevent dermatitis and maintain healthy hands, and an apron to protect your clothes. To ensure the comfort of your client, sit them upright with their back against the chair. When you are colouring the hair make sure that your balance is evenly distributed, standing with your feet slightly apart. Place your trolley on the correct side and avoid stretching to reach it. This will prevent neck and back problems, fatigue and minimise the risk of injury. Keeping your work area clean and tidy You must keep your work area clean and tidy at all times. Make sure that your trolley and workstation are prepared for the required colouring service and that you are ready for the client to arrive. Sterilise your styling tools and equipment to ensure they are hygienic and ready to use. Clean your workstation and surfaces with detergent and water, disinfect your equipment with suitable disinfectants or a UV light, and sterilise tools in the autoclave. Temperature of equipment When using your electrical equipment, be aware of potential hazards and follow the Electricity at Work Regulations. You must visually check your appliances for cracks in that main body or plug and kinks in the wires. Always label, remove and report faulty electrical equipment. 3

5 Setup & Equipment Brush & Bowl Apron, Gloves, Gown & Cape Measuring cup and scales For accurate measuring Hydrogen Peroxide Koleston Perfect Foils For all hair colouring techniques and services Clips For separating and securing sections of the hair 5

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7 Consultation- Communication Techniques ASK Open questions/closed questions How happy were you with your last colour treatment? Would you like a change? LISTEN Lifestyle & fashion awareness Career & Age Clients requirements LOOK Hair texture (condition hair & scalp) Natural shade & percentage of white hair Faded lengths & ends Colour tone in lengths and ends Marked change in hair structure TOUCH How well cared for does the hair feel? Hair Texture Hair Elasticity Hair Porosity BODY LANGUAGE Check body posture for underlying messages during consultation Are they leaning forward, engaging and enthusiastic? Arms crossed leaning back with underlying fear Double check verbally if you feel crossed messages? 7

8 Texture & Porosity Texture is the diameter of the Hair Porosity is the hairs ability to absorb and lose moisture 8

9 Hair & Skin Tests Carrying out Elasticity test Prior to any chemical treatment or part of the consultation process, take a single strand of damp hair and gently stretch. To test the internal structure. To test the internal structure (Cortex) of the hair. When the hair is in good condition the hair should stretch to its normal length. If the does not return, the inner structure is damaged and will need to repair. Hair with poor elasticicity could be further damaged further or break off if a colour is applied. Carrying out a Skin test Prior to carrying out a colour service a skin test must be carried out 48 hours before (unless they have had a colour within the last 3 months) To carry this out, place a small amount of colour behind the ear. Incompatibility test Hair that has had previous chemical treatments may be incompatible with professional products. Some products contain a substance called metallic salts. These can be found in colour products or compound henna and react to professional colouring products. If we take a hair cutting and place it in 20 parts of 6% hydrogen peroxide and one part of perm lotion we can test for the presence of such incompatible chemicals. Signs of bubbling, heating or discolouration Are a sign that we should not carry out the service. Carrying out Porosity test Prior to any chemical treatment or part of the consultation process. On dry hair, take a small section of hair and using the thumb and first finger stroke hair from points to roots. This is to test the external structure (the cuticle) of the hair and the absorption. The hair should feel smooth. Rough hair will indicate very porous hair. Porous Hair could be damaged further by chemical services or may result in chemical process being uneven and fading quickly. 9

10 The percentage of white hair will determine the choice of colour. For example: White Hair You can achieve 100% white hair coverage with permanent colour below the depth of an 8/0 The colour you select is vital in the result achieved. A semi permanent colour can achieve up to 50% white coverage. A quasi permanent colour can achieve up to 75% white hair coverage. Semi and temporary colours will blend white hair up to 15%. Please refer to manufacturers instructions for specific guidance In some cases an intense depth would need to be used from the colour range e.g. 44/0 or 4/0. Most colour ranges will have specialist colours for white coverage. Warm/red/copper temporary and semi-permanent colours cannot be used on white hair as the colour result colour will be too bright If hair is resistant you can pre-soften by applying 6% peroxide on the resistant area before colouring, dry it and then colour as normal. The brighter, warmer shades of some permanent or quasi colours have to mixed with natural/base colours to prevent the final result being too bright. 10

11 Factors to Consider when Colouring Temperature: Will heat be needed to speed up the development time? Is the room warm or cool. Do you need to adjust the application method? When lightening hair, mid length and ends can be applied first, before the regrowth application as heat will come from the head. Existing colour: How light or dark is the natural depth? How many shades depth are you lightening/adding depth? The percentage of white: Has the hair got 10%, 15%, 50%, 100% white hair? Do you need to use a different colouring product? The test results: Is the hair suitable for the colour selected? Will the condition be compromised? The strength of hydrogen peroxide: How many shades of lift is required? Is white hair coverage needed to achieve an even result. The porosity of hair: Will you need to use a semi? Is permanent colour or a colour refreshing technique needed? The length of hair: How much product will you need to mix? The skin tone: Use and identify the client skin tone to select a colour that is a complimentary tone. 11

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14 DEPTH TONE Understanding Depths and Tones Depth Indicates dark or light Tone Indicates the tonal character of the shade. Here we can see the depth or base of a colour from 2/ - 10/ and the tone from /0- /9. At the lighter depth the tones are brighter, as the depth gets darker the tones become more subtle. 14

15 Colour Star RED Primary ORANGE Secondary VIOLET secondary YELLOW Primary BLUE Primary Rules of the colour star The colour star can be divided into warm and cool colours. Colours that are opposite each other on the colour star will neutralise each other. These are known as opposite colours. The principle of opposite colours is used in hairdressing when dealing with colour correction e.g if the hair is too yellow, violet is used to reduce the yellow tone. Red is used to neutralise a green tone. GREEN Secondary The spectrum of colours are: Red Orange Yellow Green Blue Violet Primary colours: Red Blue - Yellow Secondary colours: Green Orange Violet 15

16 Structure of the Hair 16

17 The origin of pigment Scalp Cuticle Medulla Melanin Cuticle Cortex Bulb Keratinocytes papilla Melenocyte Blood Supply Melenocyte = Cell that produces Melanin Keratinocytes = Cell that produces Keratin 17

18 Hair Pigmentation Pigmentation Pigments of colour are added to the hair early in the growth process. These pigments are made of a substance called Melanin Melanin gives hair its natural coloured appearance The pigment granules in fully formed hair contain two key types of Melanin: Eumelanin: Black/Brown (Ashen) has larger pigment. The amount of Eumelanin determines the depth of the hair (how light or dark it is) Pheomelanin: Red/Yellow (warm) has smaller pigment. The amount of Pheomelanin in the hair determines the tone of the hair (the colour you see) 18

19 Natural Blonde Pigment Picture 1. Blonde hair Variation of depth and tone multitonal Picture 2. Magnified hair Variation of depth Picture 3. Colour sitting on Cortex Pheomelanin & Eumelanin. Higher ratio of pheomelanin in blondes. Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment Far away from cuticle, shape of pheomelanin melansome is spread out and buried deep in cortex. Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte Close up of a pheomelanin melansome 19

20 Natural Red Pigment The first type of pigment is generally smaller and appears very different when inspected under a microscope. Picture 1. Red Hair. Varies in depth but not as overloaded with tone. This pigment looks like knotted clumps of thread or as if it has tiny lamellae or scales. A chemical analysis shows that it contains iron which is not found in Eumelanin. Picture 2. Magnified hair Very similar 2 strands high concentration of Pheomelanin This pigment appears as blonde or red in hair and is called Pheomelanin. (red yellow pigment) Picture 3. Cortex is full of a high concentration of pheomelanin, Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment High in concentration but also some pheomelamim melansome entangled together. Different shapes and sizes. Resistant Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte P5 based on this 20

21 Natural Black Pigment Every head of hair contains hairs of different thickness and shape, as well as a variety of colours, although this will sometimes be so slight that the eye will not notice it. Picture 1. Black Hair. Dense & dark Europeans have, on average one hundred thousand hairs on the head, varying in shape, size and colour. The general colour range is from medium blonde through to medium brown. Picture 2. Magnified hair Both same colour Asian or African hair on the other hand, has pigment within the cuticle as well, which accounts for the colour being so dark. Melanin particles are distributed throughout the hair shaft from the inside outwards. There is more pigment in the outer layers of the cortex than the inner ones. In naturally red hair, the pigment is often concentrated towards the centre of the cortex. The second type of pigment is darker in colour, appears brown through to black. This is reasonable for depth. Depending on the amount of pigment hair can vary in colour from lightest blonde to darkest brown, appearing almost black. This pigment is called eumelanin (brown-black pigment) Picture 3. High concentration of Emuelanin smaller concentration of phemelanin Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment Nat pigment sits in cuticle & the cortex. Easier to lift. Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte Granular in shape eumelanin melansome 21

22 Natural Brown Pigment Picture 1. Brown Hair. Healthy hair has an intact cuticle which reflects light. Light also passes through the cuticle. At the same time, the pigment can be seen through the cuticle. The combination of this produces the colours tone. Picture 2. Magnified hair Studies of hair pigment using electron and light microscopes, as well as chemical investigations show that there are two different types of pigment. In other words, there are two types of melanin. These two pigments produce the variety of natural hair colours we know. Picture 3. Eumelanin molecule Picture 4. Enlarged version of distribution of pigment High concentration of emelanin melansome Granular in shape closer to cuticle. Picture 5. Pigment Cell - Melanocyte Pebble shaped dense rounded. 22

23 LIGHTENING CURVE The lightening curve indicates the exposure of underlying pigments during the lightening process. This may help you neutralise unwanted tone produced through lightening It may also help you to replace the lost tone when re-colouring or pre-pigmenting 23

24 How Colour works Within the hair structure Temporary colour Large colour molecules on the outside of the cuticle. Lasts one shampoo. Can stay longer if the hair is porous Semi-permanent colour Large and small colour granules penetrate the cuticle and lie on the outer edge of the cortex. Lasts 6 shampoos. Can only darken or tone 24

25 Quasi colour The addition of weak hydrogen peroxide allows colour to enter the outer cortex. Lasts up to 24 shampoos and gradually fades (mixed molecules) Permanent colour Tiny colour granules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The small colour granules swell, join together and become trapped deep in the cortex. Grows out Bleach Natural colour molecules (melanin) are oxidised to form colourless oxy-melanin. Grows out 25

26 Peroxide Selection: Peroxide Product Ratio 0% True Semi Adds Depth & Tone Pastel Toning Adds tone 1:2 ratio 1.9% Semi Adds depth & tone Adds shine 1:2 ratio 4% Quasi Adds depth & tone Adds shine 1:2 ratio 6% Permanent Adds depth & tone Same depth 1 shade lift coverage of white 1:1 ratio 9% Permanent Upto 2 shades lift 1:1 ratio 12% Permanent Upto 3 shades lift 1:1 ratio Special blonde 4-5 shades lift 1:2 ratio 26

27 Why use Anti Oxy Natural hair is PH acidic, approximately PH 4.5 to PH 5.5 on the PH scale. Colouring products are PH alkaline and after completion of the service the ph balance of the hair must be restored. This can be achieved by using a ph balanced conditioner. The ph balanced conditioner will: Restore the ph balance of the hair Close the cuticle to avoid colour fade Allow the hair to shine Stop the oxidation process, therefore avoiding creeping oxidation which can lead to the hair colour becoming lighter. If you do not restore the PH balance of the hair the cuticle remains lifted and this makes the hair feel rough and brittle. Pre-chemical treatments These conditioners are: often in the form of a spray applied to the hair before the colour service left in the hair not rinsed away used to even out uneven porosity Conditioner? Post-chemical treatments: These conditioners are: applied following the colour service usually ph balanced will restore the ph balance to the hair close the cuticle make hair shine 27

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29 Sectioning for colouring Vertical parting. This section runs from the centre front hairline to the centre of the nape Horizontal parting. This section runs horizontally across the head. This can be across the crown, at the nape or more commonly from ear to ear. Diagonal partings. This section runs diagonally from left to right or right to left. This is usually positioned to follow the shape of the head. 29

30 Vertical and Horizontal partings can be called hot cross bun sectioning. This technique is used for all basic regrowth and full head colour applications. V- Parting. This parting allows you to place colour according to the shape of the head and can be used creatively for placement of colour. T section/ half head foiling. This is used when sectioning in preparation for a 6 section woven highlighted application. Full head foiling. This is used when sectioning the hair in preparation for a 9 section woven full head of highlighted application. 30

31 Semi-Permanent colour A true semi-permanent colour is applied to the hair without the introduction of hydrogen peroxide. It can be applied as a toner, introduction to colour or a refreshing technique. Most semi-permanent colours will last for 6-10 washes and provide high shine and can be used alongside other colour when layered up. Before the colour is applied, pre shampoo the hair. Colour intensity will be increased on application of dry hair. Note- Example used is Wella Color Fresh. 31

32 On pre-shampooed hair, follow manufactures instructions on application. When applicator bottle provided, use nozzle to run strips of the product along the scalp from hairline to nape. Continue until the hair has an even application of product. Work the colour through the remaining hair using a shampooing rotary motion until all of the hair has colour evenly distributed. 32

33 Use a wide tooth comb to comb the product through to ends to ensure even application. Leave to develop according to manufacturer s instruction, rinse and condition if required. Finished Result 33

34 Regrowth colour application step by step Begin by gowning up correctly, using PPE and applying barrier cream to the hairline. Once your selected colour choice has been prepared, you may begin. Starting at the hairline take a centre vertical parting to the nape. Start applying your colour choice on both sides of parting to the visible regrowth area. Do not overlap colour as this will create an unwanted band of colour bulid up. 34

35 Follow this onto each side of the head taking horizontal sections from ear to ear. Continue to apply the chosen colour to the visible regrowth area on both sides of the parting. Take small diagonal sections starting at the crown area to create a triangle. Apply chosen colour to both sides of the section at the visible regrowth. Follow diagonal sections through to the nape area applying colour on both sides of the section at the visible regrowth. 35

36 Follow the same process on the other side to complete the back section. Starting with one side of the head at a time, at the crown work in the same diagonal sections towards the hairline working away from the face. Once each quarter is complete, lastly apply the chosen colour around the perimeter of the hairline to ensure complete coverage. This can be done with the brush or with colour applied to the comb. The comb application will minimise staining around the hairline if using a lower depth. If colouring stubborn or resistant hair, hairline may be applied first. However when using a lightener, hairline MUST be applied last. On completing your application use stain remover and cotton wool to remove any unwanted colour staining to the skin. 36

37 Finished Result 37

38 Full head colour application As seen in the Regrowth application, part the hair from the centre of the hairline to the centre of the nape and apply colour to either side of the parting. Continue horizontally from the crown to the ear on each side of the head. Starting at the back of the head at the nape, take diagonal sections working up towards the crown. Apply colour to both sides of the section from root to point ensuring an even and thorough application, placing the coloured hair onto the plastic cape. Repeat process to the remaining back section working from the nape to the crown. With a full head colour you should always be working away from the face in order to minimise colour staining on the face or surrounding areas. 38

39 Once both back sections are complete, move onto the front sections. Take diagonal sections starting at the crown working away from the face. Paint your colour onto both sides of the section from root to point ensuring even coverage and thorough application. At completion, the hairline is painted with colour to ensure complete coverage. Finished Result * Note: If covering grey or resistant hair, apply colour to most resistant area first 39

40 Techniques for foiling Slice. Take a fine to medium section of hair place on a foil and apply your colour choice. A contrasting effect will be created. Weave. From your fine to medium slice, weave out hair with use of a pin tail comb. Drop the unwanted hair and place your weave on a foil and apply your colour choice. A natural effect will be created. Back to back. Using the slicing technique place fine to medium sections of hair onto a foil and apply your colour choice. Without leaving hair in between the packets repeat until all hair within the section is placed in foils. A Striking effect will be created. 40

41 Singles. Used to visually place colour in the hair through creative placement of colour. Working up in horizontal sections from temple to temple take small triangle sections place on a foil and apply your colour choice. Fold the foil into a triangle shape and continue the process around the upper head. 41

42 T-Section of Woven Highlights Before starting your T section, ensure a thorough consultation including hair growth patterns and the clients position of the parting. This may affect the placement of sectioning. The hair is neatly divided into 4 sections. The parting section is evenly placed through the parting at the top of the head, one continuing to the crown and a section either side above the ear. Ensure that your section is no wider than a foil, with even width. The crown section is your first section to weave. The thickness of the weave will be dependent on the hair texture, density and desired effect. Starting at the bottom of the section take a slice of hair with the pin tail comb. Weave the tail of the comb through the slice in an up and down motion until an even weave is achieved. 42

43 Keeping the comb in your hand, place the woven slice of hair onto the matte side of the foil and lie the hair flat against the head. Using a small amount of product on your tint brush, stroke colour from the root to ends, leaving a small gap at the top of the foil to avoid colour seepage onto the root area. Lightening product should not be overlapped onto prelightened hair and only painted onto virgin hair.) With the pin tail comb, secure your foil into place with a half way up towards the root and then fold in each side to secure the packet in place during development. Repeat the process by taking a new slice and weaving out an even weave on your next section. This time, leave the woven hair out of the packet as natural hair left in-between the packets. This will result in a natural effect. 43

44 Once the back section is complete, follow the same process through the side sections, starting at the bottom at the ear and working up to your parting section. On completion of side sections, a slice is then taken to weave from the parting section at the crown. Working towards the half way of the section. Once half way, get your client to face you and then work from the front of the hairline through the remaining hair. The parting is done last, unless the hair in this area is resistant. 44

45 On completion, the hair through the top and side are foiled, leaving the hair in between out. The colour is now allowed to develop according to manufacturer s instructions. (Please note that added heat should be avoided when using lightener to avoid expansion and seepage.) Finished result 45

46 Full head Woven Highlights Before the colour, the hair is sectioned into 9. Two sections at the centre of the back, two sections either side behind the ear, one section just above the ear and a section equally place through the natural parting If the parting is naturally worn on the side, the top section would still sit equal sides of the parting. The other sections would elongate or shorten to sit neatly alongside. Starting at the nape at the back centre section, a slice of hair is taken by running a pin tail comb closely along the scalp and lifted up away from the rest of the hair. 46

47 From that slice, the hair is then evenly woven using the tail of your comb. The size of the weave will be dependent on the hair texture, density and desired result. A fine weave will create a natural effect, a thicker weave will create a more noticeable effect. The unwoven hair drops and remains left out in between the packets for a natural finish. A foil or meche is then placed under the weave with the tail of the comb or with your hand. The chosen colour is then applied at the root area, leaving a small gap for expansion during development. Then using the remaining colour on the brush, the product is applied to the mid lengths or ends if required. Using the comb, the foil is then folded in half, then at each side to secure the packet during development. Be aware that too much flattening may result in product seepage. 47

48 Continue to work up the section ensuring to leave the unwoven hair left out in between each section. Keep your sections the same size and width to maintain an even and methodical application. Once section one is complete move on to the bottom side sections, again starting at the nape and working up Continue the same method through to sections four, five and six until the back section is complete. 7 Move now to section 7 & 8 above each ear. Starting at the bottom of the section and working up. 48

49 Work through both sides until you have the top section (9) remaining. Getting your client to position their head forward start weaving sections from the crown forward until you reach half way towards the hairline. 49

50 Once half way through your top section, return your clients head to an upright position and do the remaining half of the section working from the hairline. Please note that sectioning and starting points may vary dependant on creative colour placement and tailoring the application to your client s needs. Completed full head of foils. Allow the foils to develop undisturbed. Please note; Lightener must only be applied to virgin hair and not previously lightened hair. Varying peroxide strength with lighteners should result in even development, if you need to remove some sections before full development, make sure that you avoid disturbing sections that still have development time to prevent seeping and bleeding. 50

51 Finished Result. 51

52 Bleach Regrowth colour application. Before starting your bleach regrowth always ensure that I skin test has been carried out and that the condition of the hair allows you to carry out the service. Bleach scalp applications should only ever be carried out with a scalp bleach designed to sit slightly away from the scalp to avoid irritation. The choice of peroxide application with scalp bleach is pastel, 1.9%, 4% or 6%. A peroxide of any higher strength is unsuitable for use on the scalp. As with a permanent regrowth colour application, hair is sectioned into a hot cross bun section technique. Painting the bleach onto the back section first. Bleach is only ever applied to the visible virgin hair and product should never be overlapped in order to avoid potential structural damage to the pre lightened mid lengths and ends. 52

53 Starting at the back take small horizontal sections at the crown and apply the bleach to both sides of the regrowth. Keep working down towards the nape taking extra fine sections with a tail comb. Continue to paint bleach on to both sides of the section to ensure even coverage and neat application. Follow on by completing the other back section in the same way and follow through with the front two sections working from the crown to the hairline. Once the four quarters of the hair have the regrowth colour applied, ensure that the hair line is left until last. This will minimise the structural damage to the most delicate area of the head. Carefully complete the application by neatly applying bleach to the hairline. Once complete, lift the hair slightly away from the scalp to allow air to flow evenly to help even development. Do not apply heat to any bleach colour application. Visually develop until the warmth is removed and you have achieved your target result. The maximum lift achieved is a very pale yellow. Please refer to lightening curve. 53

54 Once target result has been achieved, you may wish to tone the whole head to neutralise warmth and unwanted tone. Once the bleach has been rinsed, shampooed and conditioned, remove excess water and apply methodically using hot cross bun sectioning. In some cases toner may be applied to root area or mid length and ends first. Warning, toners may grab to porous areas in lightened hair. Following manufacturer s instructions, remove the toner, rinse and condition. Style as required. Finished Result 54

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56 Extra Techniques Peigne meche (pen meche): The use of a specially designed comb with different sized gaps for colouring freehand high lights or low lights onto short hair. Good for creative placement of colour, coverage of grey around the hairline or a subtle alternative to foil or cap highlights. Advised to start from the bottom of the head working up during a whole head application. Spatula: A flat plastic paddle with a combed end. This is held against the root hair of a section of hair where the paddle supports the application of colour before dragging the combed end down the lengths of the hair to create creative colour or lightening effects. Advised to start from the bottom of the head working up if a whole head application. Ombré: A dip dye or two tone effect colour application, using a lightener and toner application partway down the hair length. Applied with either a spatula, in foil or meche, on back combed hair or free hand, pulling colour through from the mid lengths to ends. Application must be gradual and shattered to create a soft bespoke finish. 56

57 Reflections Training Academy Re-colouring Techniques Pre-Pigmentation with Koleston Perfect Using Koleston Perfect Special Mix 5-30cm of Koleston Perfect Special Mix OR 15ml Red/Gold tint 60ml of warm water Apply where necessary Leave for minutes Blot excess product with tissue and apply Koleston Perfect Target shade or Anti-Fade colour bath Apply to dry or pre-shampooed hair depending on technique selected Pre-Pigmentation with Colour Touch Using Colour Touch Special Mix 5-10mls of Colour Touch Special Mix + 60mls of Colour Touch 1.9% Emulsion Develop as normal Blot off excess Re-colour with target shade Step 1 Section the hair from ear to ear Step 2 Pick up the colour with a sponge Step 3 Begin applying colour at the back of the head Continue until the hair is completely covered Post Pigmentation 5-30cm of Koleston Perfect Special Mix 60ml of warm water 15ml 9% Welloxon Perfect Apply where necessary & develop for 5-15 minutes Using Perfecton Mix 20ml of wither Perfecton /03, /4 or / ml water Apply to the desired areas Dab off excess product. Style as usual Perfecton can be used neat or diluted. Depth dependant 10/0-12/0, 250mls water + 5ml 9/0, 250ml + 10ml 8/0, 250ml + 15ml 7/0 2/0, 250ml + 20ml 57

58 Reflections Training Academy Colour Refreshing Minimum Fade: Comb Through Step 1: Complete target shade root application Step 2: Dampen the hair and emulsify the colour to begin Step 3 Working from the crown area take a section of the hair and work the colour through the midlengths and ends by massaging or combing with warm water. Step 4: Continue following the brickwork pattern Step 5: Repeat this process of either massaging or combing through the colour for the whole section. Medium/Maximum Fade: Colour Touch Step 1:Apply target shade to root area Step 2 After root application, apply the colour from the roots through the mid-lengths and ends using a flask. Step 3: Work the colour into the hair using the hands. Step 4: Continue through the back applying the colour using the brickwork method Step 5: Then continue through the front applying the colour in the same way Step 6: Rinse off excess colour after development time. Maximum Colour Refreshing Normal to Porous hair Koleston Rinse 15-30ml of tint (30 mls if red) 15ml 9% Welloxon Perfect 60ml warm water Mix and apply to mid lengths and ends on completion of re-growth application Develop as normal Very porous hair Anti Fade colour bath 15ml of tint 45ml warm water Mix and apply immediately on completion of re-growth application Allow full development time Stabilising Rinse: Mix 10ml 9% Welloxon Perfect 40ml warm water Apply to lengths and ends Develop for a further 5 minutes Exceptions When using copper/red shades, use equal parts Koleston Perfect and warm water. When using Ashen shades on the re-growth, use a natural shade for anti fade colour bath. Watch point The porosity of the hair and the target shade will affect your refreshing technique 58

59 Reflections Training Academy Cleansing Rinse Lightening Techniques The hair is pre-shampooed to open the cuticle Blondor Multi Blonde powder or Blondor Multi Blonde granules are mixed with warm water to a pouring consistency. As bleach becomes active when wet. This is applied to the hair with a brush or a sponge onto the required areas. The hair lightens over the development time before the products are shampooed away. The hair is now ready to be recoloured. Mild Lightener 1 part Blondor and 3 parts Welloxon Perfect Pastel Developer are mixed and applied to the required areas of the hair. The development occurs until the areas have lightened sufficiently the product is then shampooed away. The hair can now be coloured to your target shade. Koleston Perfect 10/0 Mix in the normal way with 12% and apply to dark areas. Develop up to 60 minutes When sufficient lift has been achieved (warm in tone), comb excess off with large tooth comb, leaving approximately 20% tint on the hair (do not rinse). Now colour to your target shade. Cleansing Shampoo 1 Scoop or 30 grams Blondor Lightening powder/blondor lightening granules. 30ml 6% Welloxon Perfect 60ml warm water 15ml shampoo Apply to pre-shampooed hair. Adjust water content if required. 59

60 Problems, Reasons & Remedies Problem Reason Remedy Uneven result Under processing * Uneven application * Sections too large * Incorrect mixing * Product not left for sufficient time to develop * Hydrogen peroxide strength too low * Uneven application * Resistant hair = Spot tint uneven areas = Reapply bleach or colour if hair condition allows = Pre-soften the hair, if resistant for next application Over processing * Hydrogen peroxide strength too high * Hair in poor condition before colour * Product left on hair too long = Treat with restructurants and penetrating conditioning treatments Deterioration of hair condition * Colour or bleach not rinsed from the hair * Over processing = Treat with restructurants and penetrating conditioning treatments Coverage not good on white hair Hair resistant to tint Tint under processed *Uneven application Incorrect product choice = Pre-soften hair in future = Re-apply product = Spot tint areas not covered =Change product choice 60

61 Problem Reason Remedy Hair breakage *Over porous hair *Over processed *Over lapping of bleach product *Colour combed through too often *Incorrect selection of product too strong *Hydrogen peroxide strength too high = Remove immediately = Cut if possible = Use restructurants/deep conditioning penetrating conditioner Result too yellow *Under processed *Base too dark *Incorrect selection of product = Do elasticity and porosity test. If result is good, rebleach = Apply toner to subdue yellow tones Skin staining *Colour product not Emulsified *Too much colour product applied at hairline *Colour product not removed *No barrier cream applied = Skin stain remover = Re-shampoo Seepage of product *Incorrect application of materials and products * Too much product applied * Incorrect mixing of product = weave natural colour back in at roots = Spot correct areas of seepage Scalp irritation * Peroxide too strong *Client allergic to tint Colour not rinsed or removed correctly = Remove immediately with cool water 61

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63 Glossary of Terms Adverse hair and scalp conditions: Limiting factors that have an effect on what and how services are delivered to clients, e.g. head lice, psoriasis, alopecia, cysts, impetigo, scars, moles etc. Bleach: A hairdressing product that dissolves/removes natural colour pigments from hair. Chemically damaged hair: Hair condition worsened by the effects of chemical processing. Chemically treated hair: Hair that has been previously permed, coloured, bleached or relaxed. Client care: Providing service to salon customers in a way that promotes goodwill, comfort, satisfaction and interest, which ultimately results on regular return visits from clients. Client consultation: A service which is usually provided before the client has anything done to their hair. Consultation will find out what the client wants, identify any styling limitations, provide advice and maintenance information and formulate a plan of action. Col (RG or FH): Appointment abbreviation for colouring, either regrowth application or full head. Communication: Listening, hearing and responding to the client. Contrasts: A marked difference (e.g. between colours, say black and white.) Contra-indication: Something that signifies that an adverse reaction has occurred. Cortex: The inner part of the hair where permanent colour is deposited and where perms make physical changes to the hair. Depth: The lightness or darkness of hair. Full head application of colour or bleach: A colouring technique that requires a sequence of applications to the mid-lengths, ends and regrowth area. Hair colour: The resultant effect from two colour aspects; depth, the lightness or darkness of a colour and tone, the degree of red, gold, ash etc. within the hair. Hair tests: Tests used to determine contra-indications to hair services. Hair texture: Texture refers to the thickness or thinness of individual hairs: coarse, medium or fine. Henna: From a shrub with leaves that yield a red dye Henna. HL or H/L: Appointment abbreviation for highlighting. ICC (International Colour Chart) system: A tabular system for identifying hair colours made by different manufacturers by their depth and tone. 63

64 Glossary of Terms Incompatibility: Refers to incompatible chemistry. When incompatibilities are present within the hair- e.g. colour restorers, Just for men or compound henna- no organic chemicals can be used. Incompatibility test: A method of testing hair to see if previous chemical treatments are compatible with those used with professional salons. Influencing factors: Anything which could affect the hairdressing service. Lighteners: Lighteners are products that remove natural tone from hair such as bleach, or high lift colour. Manufacturer s instructions: Explicit guidance issued by manufacturers or suppliers of products or equipment, concerning their safe and efficient use. Para-phenylenediamine: A dye compound found in many permanent colours. Permanent tint: A penetrating colour product that adds synthetic pigments to natural hair until it grows out. Personal protective equipment (PPE): You are required to use and wear the appropriate protective equipment during chemical services or any situation where personal harm may be encountered. PH: The presence of positive hydrogen ions with a compound which denotes its levels of acidity or alkalinity. Porous hair: Hair that has lost surface protection, therefore having a greater absorption and less resistance to chemicals and products. This affects the hair s manageability, handling and ability to hold in a style. Quasi-permanent colours: Colour products which should be treated as permanent colours in terms of application, testing and future service. Strand test: A test carried out upon hair prior to chemical services to determine the effects of processing. Temporary colour: Colour added to hair that lasts until the next wash. Tone: The aspects of colouration of the hair, normally grouped into similar tints, i.e. copper tones, red tones, ash tones. The Semi-permanent colour: A semi-permanent colour is not mixed with hydrogen peroxide. It only penetrates to the lower cuticle and therefore lasts for a few washes. Virgin hair: Hair that has not been chemically treated. 64

65 I know how to prepare clients before undertaking any chemical service I know how to prepare the equipment and materials before they are used upon the client I can carry out Colour consultation and understand the Colour selection process I know and understand the science in respect to coloring and bleaching I always carry out tests prior to any new coloring treatment I know and understand the health, safety and hygiene risks that clients are exposed to in chemical work I know and understand the potential problems and risks of not testing hair before chemicals are introduced I know and understand the effects that coloring products have upon the hair I know how to work with the natural lie and fall of the hair I know how to recognise and implement Colour correction procedures by removing unwanted tones I know and understand the ways of diluting hydrogen peroxide to make other strengths I know how to carry out a variety of full head and partial coloring techniques on a variety of hair lengths I always carry out working practices according to the salon's health and safety policy Try this.. What test is this and what part of the hair are you checking and why? CHECKER BOARD Preparing for assessment checklist Remember to:- Prepare clients correctly for the services you are going to carry out Put on the protective wear available for styling and dressing hair Listen to the clients requirements and discuss suitable courses of action Adhere to the safety factors when working on client s hair Keep the work areas clean, hygienic and free from hazards Promote the range of services, products and treatments within the salon Wear personal protective equipment Work carefully and methodically through the processes of coloring hair Place, position and direct the hair appropriately to achieve the desired effect Communicate what you are doing with the client as well as your fellow staff members 65

66 Reflections Training Academy

67 Reflections Training Academy

68 Reflections Training Academy Unit 2a/2b Commercial Street Birmingham B1 1RS TEL: FAX: Reflections Training Academy 15a Colston Street Bristol BS1 5AP TEL: FAX: This activity is part-financed by the European Union through the European Social Fund (ESF). ESF supports activities to extend employment opportunities and develop a skilled workforce 68 Reflections, Reflections House, 26 Oakfield Road, Clifton, Bristol BS8 2AT.House of Clive (Hair and Beauty) limited. VAT reg No: Registered in England. No: