The first step is to build the tube. I use brass, aluminum and copper in 3/32 for the tubing and a micro poly for the insert. I buy the tubing from

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1 Tube Fly Here is a quick and easy tube fly that has been quite productive for me over the years. I tie this style of fly in a number of different color combinations and in different lengths for both summer and winter fish. This black and green version produce well for me this past fall and validated my thought that this style of fly coupled with a small fine wire hook would fish well on my light rod (I never fish anything lighter than a 6 weight for steelhead). It was easy to cast, cleared the water well even when fishing tips. The small hook was very grabby and held well. There is nothing to foul the hook and by tying in the round it does not mater how the fly is riding. From any angle it all looks the same. I use a straight eye hook and a clinch knot. The knot slips tightly into the micro tubing, holding the hook in place. Have fun with this one and thanks for looking. Tube: Tyer s choice Tag: Chartreuse UNI-Stretch Body: Rear ¼ Chartreuse dubbing followed by black dubbing Ribbing: Large silver oval tinsel Hackle: Chartreuse at the color joint Collar: Black arctic fox followed by a few turns of purple guinea.

2 The first step is to build the tube. I use brass, aluminum and copper in 3/32 for the tubing and a micro poly for the insert. I buy the tubing from the local hobby shop in 12 inch lengths and cut them using a razor knife. The micro comes from HMH and can be cut with just about anything. Obviously the razor will not cut through the metal tubing, think pipe cutter. While rolling the tube on a firm surface score the metal with the razor. Make sure to keep the razor in the same grove and continue to roll while adding more pressure. It takes about three good turns to get to depth. The tube can them be lightly bent to separate the piece. Done right the cut will be clean with no need to file or sand burs.

3 Next insert the micro tubing in to the metal tubing. While secured on the mandrel hit one end with a flame. The micro tubing will melt down and form a ring of plastic. The ring should be just a little larger the metal tubing in diameter and should butt clean to the metal tubing. Let cool, and then duplicate the process on the other end of the tube.

4 When the core has cooled you can slip it off the mandrel. Check for consistency at both ends and make sure the openings are clear from obstructions. Chuck the tube on the mandrel and firmly seat the mandrel in the vise. To tie this fly you will need a mandrel that tappers at the end. This keeps the tube from spinning.

5 To start the tying process you will need a bobbin spooled with the UNI-Stretch. Start the floss1/8 the body length back from the end of the tube. Take the floss down to the end trapping the ribbing as you go. Make sure to cove all of the metal tubing then return to the tie in point. Split the floss to form a dubbing loop. Load the loop with dubbing and give the bobbin a spin.

6 Wrap the dubbing forward ¼ of the tube followed by the rib and secure. Bring the rib forward making 2 or 3 wraps. Start the tying thread and secure the floss/dubbing loop and the rib with tying thread and clip. Tie in a saddle hackle and take a few turns as if you where adding a collar.

7 Secure in the remaining rib material and build a dubbing loop with the tying thread. Load the loop with dubbing and give it a spin. Bring the dubbing forward followed by the rib.

8 For the collar build a dubbing loop with the tying thread. Cut a clump of hair from a patch of arctic fox. Clear most of the under fur the clump, then load the loop. Keep it sparse and give it a good spin.

9 Wrap the loop to form a collar. Fold the hair back as you make the wraps. Secure and clip the tag end.

10 Secure in a guinea feather and collar the front of the fly. Give it a whip and a hit of cement and this one is ready. Good tying and better fishing.

11 Here is a shot of how the clinch knot slips into the tube. Works great.