UCI Sailing Program CAPRI 14. Instructional Manual

Transcription

1 UCI Sailing Program CAPRI 14 Instructional Manual UCI Sailing Program University of California Irvine Department of Campus Recreation Anteater Recreation Center 680 California Ave Irvine, CA (949)

2 Introduction Welcome to UCI Sailing! Our program introduces you to sailing through the use of our fleet of Capri 14 s. These boats are ideal for learning. They are safe, well built and easy to sail, yet they still offer a challenge to the more experienced sailor and racer. As a participant in the program, you will be responsible for taking proper care of the boat and equipment and for conducting yourself in a safe and sportsmanlike manner at all times. This manual is designed to help you in your initial learning phases and to act as a reference guide as you continue to sail. We hope you will use this as a beginning point. There are many great books and references on sailing that you can use to help increase your knowledge as you progress. Before going sailing you need to be prepared. Wear closed-toed shoes and dress for the weather. It is usually cooler on the water than on campus, so dress appropriately including bringing a jacket. Sunglasses, a hat or visor and sunscreen are a must for sun protection. Remember to bring extra clothing to change into if you get wet. Before You Sail 1. Before heading down to go sailing, check the weather conditions and tides by calling the recorded weather report for Newport Harbor at (949) It is also a good idea to check local Internet sites where you can get real time local weather information and the forecasts. 2. Lifejackets or Personal flotation devices are often called PFD s. The law required that there is one per person on boats like the Capri s. For classes and other sponsored events, we provide PFD s and they must be worn at all times. For personal recreational use of the boats, including UCISA, you are responsible for making sure you have PFD s for each person. Everyone should always wear a PFD when sailing. 3. For all UCISA (club) use, participants must sign out boats in the Capri log located in the jib box. Check over the boat before you rig it up. The instructor will assist you in classes. If equipment is missing or broken, please note this in the Capri log and rig another boat. 4. UCISA Policies: See appendix 2

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4 Getting Started and Terminology These directions are intended to be used as a reminder after you have had your first on-thewater class, or for those with experience, once you have seen the boats. It will seem complicated until you actually do it once. Terminology: Do not worry right now about all the new words and sailing terminology that you will read in this manual or hear in your class. You will need to learn a few terms to get started so that your instructor and fellow students can communicate effectively and clearly. This will help everyone. We also do not want you to get overwhelmed with terminology at the beginning. We want to get you out on the water. As you sail more, these terms will be easier to remember. As you progress it is very important to learn the terms so you can communicate with other sailors and your instructor. Rigging While rigging the UCI Capri s and boats in general, try not to step into a boat while it is resting on the dock. You may need to in order to reach things, but work as much as you can by standing along side the boats. It is hard on the boat as it is not adequately supported on the dock. 4

5 1. Check the stern drain plug in the back of the boat (on the transom). Unscrew the plug and check for water in the hull. Drain as necessary, replace the plug and tighten completely. If it is not properly tightened, the hull will fill with water. You will then be unable to sail well or get the boat back onto the dock or possibly even sink. Never leave the drain plug unscrewed! Always reinsert before leaving the boat. 2. Check the forward hatch. The hatch in the bow of the boat should always be closed and tightly latched. If it is not securely closed, and you capsize, it will fill with water. It will then be difficult to get the boat back upright, unstable when sailing, and difficult to lift out of the water. The UCI Capri s hatches have been permanently sealed shut for your safety. STEPS 1 and 2 are REALLY IMPORTANT. 3. Mainsail: UCI has two sizes of mainsails, both with flotation sewn into the top of the sail. The smaller or CUTDOWN sails are great for learning, on windy days or if you are singlehanded sailing. You will generally use them in the first class session. The FULL size mainsail has 3 battens that need to go into the sail. These battens, or stiffening sticks, fit into the pockets that are sewn into the sail. The battens need to fit (there are 3 sizes) and be properly secured. The longest batten is not attached to the sail and in stored on a shelf in the main sail dock box. When you insert the battens, be sure to insert them completely into the slot. 4. Rigging the mainsail: With either mainsail, place it on the seat on the right side of the boat, with the rope edge towards the front of the boat. The top of the sail (with the sewn-in floatation) should be on top making it easy to hoist. The halyard is the line that will hoist up the sail. 5. The Boom is held up while the boats are at the dock with the main halyard attached to the outhaul (a blue line) at the end of the boom. You will need to release the main halyard found cleated off on the right hand side of the boat, and carefully lower the boom into the boat. Take the halyard off the outhaul hook and attach the shackle to the top (head) of the mainsail. Do not let the other end of the halyard go and cleat it off on the starboard (right) side of the mast on the lower cleat. Look up and check that the halyard is free and not twisted or tangled. Be CAREFULL not to pull on a halyard unless the other end is secured, otherwise it will go to the top of the mast. Oops! Do not hoist up the sail at this point. You may insert the first 6-12 inches of the sail bolt rope into the slot on the mast, and raise it about 1 ft. The sails do not get raised until the boats are in the water, and into the wind. 5

6 6. Un-cleat and ease the outhaul (blue line that runs along the boom), downhaul (red line where the mast and boom meet), boom vang (white line that runs between the boom and mast on a diagonal), and mainsheet (white with red that runs from the boom to a cleat in the center of the boat floor). This is important so the boom is loose enough to allow the sail to be raised. 7. Jibs (the smaller front sails): Beginning classes often will not use the jib, until the 2 nd or 3 rd week of class. If you are using the jib, unfold it onto the front deck of the boat, with the jib sheets (long lines) at the mast. Attach the lower corner of the sail (where the sail maker insignia or patch is) to the tack fitting, and working from the bottom up, attach the clips (hanks) to the forestay (the front wire). Attach the jib halyard, checking that it is not twisted. Re-cleat the halyard to the cleat on the left side (port) of the mast, but do not raise the sail. The jib sheets are lead, one on each side of the boat, outside of the shrouds (wires that support the mast), then through the jib fairleads. Tie a figure 8 knot with an extra twist in the end of the jib sheet. Your instructor will show you how to tie this knot. (See appendix on knots) 8. Rudders and tillers: Take the rudder and tiller from the rack. Do not put the rudder in until after you get the sails ready. You will need to slide the boat back about 1 foot off the edge of the dock, so you can put the rudder in without having it hit the dock. You can also wait to put the rudder and tiller in, once you have put the boat into the water. The tiller goes under the traveler, the line across the back of the boat. You need to check that both the rudder pins are in the brackets on the stern (back) of the boat. 9. Launching your boat: Check that the centerboard is completely up, before pushing the boat into the water. Hold the bow line, as you slide the boat into the water. Once it is launched, cleat the bow line to a dock cleat. Step into the boat, keeping your weight near the center of the boat. Lower the centerboard, by releasing the control line that is located on the port or left side of the centerboard. Watch that you do not get your fingers in the way, as the board lowers itself. Also check that there are no lines that might get stuck in the slot for the centerboard. If it does not easily lower, gently pull aft on the stainless steel ring keeping your hands clear. You may need to step on the centerboard to get it moving down into the well. 10. The next step is to get the boat to a dock where it is facing into the wind (More on that later). You may have to get the boats to the other side of the dock area, across the lagoon. Turn your boat around and give a forward push off and scull across. Capri s are a bit tricky to scull, so get a push off first, and keep your speed up as you scull. Scull by moving the tiller back and forth 6

7 in large sweeping motions that will propel the boat forward without the sails. You will need to sit in front of the tiller to be able to move the tiller enough to scull. NOTE: In sailboats, the tiller turns the boat the opposite way. In other words, to steer the front of the boat to the right, push the tiller to the left side. (Or visa versa) You must sit completely in front of the tiller, so it is clear and has its full range of motion. 11. Once the boat is facing into the wind, tie it up to a cleat on the dock. 12. The mainsail should always be raised first. Raise the mainsail, by pulling on the halyard. For the full sails, raise it up to the top of the mast. For the cut down sails, raise it up to a point about where the bottom corner is just above the boom and mast fitting called the gooseneck. Cleat the main halyard, and neatly coil the end of the halyard, and stow in the front pocket of the boat. The main halyard is cleated on the lower starboard mast cleat. THE MAINSHEET SHOULD ALWAYS BE UNCLEATED WHILE THE BOAT IS AT THE DOCK. The sail needs to be able to luff (sails flapping with no pressure). Double check that the mainsheet is loose and not cleated. Note: Be sure you cleat the lines properly so they hold the halyards securely. See the appendix to review how to cleat on a horn cleat. 13. Once the sail is hoisted, attach the downhaul to fasten the sail at the tack or the front corner. Take the downhaul line from the port (left side) of the mast, up through the grommet or hole in lower front corner of the sail, and down to the upper starboard mast cleat. On our boats the downhaul lines are red. 14. Once the sail is pulled up with the halyard, and pulled down with the downhaul, you can attach the outhaul. On the full mainsails, you will need to insert the plastic slide into the forward opening in the boom then slide it all the way aft. The cut-down main sails do not have this plastic slide. The outhaul line is clipped into the back corner of the sail. To tighten the outhaul, follow the line to the cleat on the side of the boom and secure. On our boats the outhaul lines are blue. 15. Adjust the outhaul and downhaul to the wind conditions. You will learn more as you advance, but as the wind increases they are tighter. The boom vang should just be snug, not too tight. 16. Hoist the jib, and cleat it off. You want to be sure to raise it until the forestay gets loose. Again, tighten it as the wind increases. On the UCI Capri a metal ring is tied onto the jib halyard to help you get the halyard tight. Hoist your sail and bring the halyard around the cleat and then 7

8 back up to the ring. Thread the halyard through the ring and back down to the cleat, pull tightly and secure the halyard on the cleat on the port side of the mast. The jib sheets should also be un-cleated while the boat is docked. Be sure you are familiar with how to work these cleats. 17. Coil up the halyards and neatly store them in the pouch at the base of the mast. This will keep the lines out of your way. 18. Lock the dock boxes before you leave the dock. REMEMBER to check the wind direction and velocity, and the traffic. Did you remember to put on your lifejacket? De- Rigging the boats De-rigging is basically the reverse of rigging. It is important that everyone put the boats away properly so they will be ready for the next use. 1. Once you have docked facing into the wind, tie up the boat, lower the jib and re-cleat the Jib halyard at the base of the mast. 2. Lower the mainsail and re-cleat the main halyard at the base of the mast. As you lower the mainsail, hold the boom to prevent it from dropping hard on the boat. Try to keep the sails from falling into the water. Remember: Do not leave the sails up while at the dock for more than just a few minutes. The excessive luffing and chaffing quickly wears the sails out. 3. If necessary, scull the boat back to the side where the UCI boats are kept. All de-rigging occurs on the UCI dock where our equipment is stored. Moving your boat over to the UCI dock helps reduce congestion in the docking area. 4. Take the sails out of the boat. Do not leave the halyard loose, you do not want to accidently pull the shackle to the top of the mast. Ideally, fold the sails on the grey area of the dock. Take the battens out of the sail, and put the longest one in the tray in the mainsail box. Fold the sails, in a zig-zag pattern, with the fold laying flat on the bottom edge. Fold the sail from 8

9 the back edge towards the rope edge or front. Sails should be neatly folded to help extend their use, and fit nicely in the dock box. 5. Secure the halyards away from the mast, like they were originally stowed. The jib halyard is secured to the port jib cleat. Secure the shackle with an overhand knot so it does not slip to the top of the mast. Clip the main halyard shackle to the outhaul and hoist the boom to horizontal. Secure the other end of the main halyard to the starboard jib cleat. 6. You can coil and secure the jib sheets, even before you take them off the boat. This helps keep them out of the water as you take the sail off the boat. When you fold the jib, fold toward the sheets and then just set them on the top of the sail, as you put it into the jib box. 7. Remove the rudder and tiller and stow on rack. 8. Raise the centerboard. Stand on the port side and raise the centerboard completely by pulling on the centerboard control line while stepping on the forward portion of the centerboard. Check that there are not any lines that might get caught inside of the centerboard trunk. 9. To get the boat back on the dock, lift it out of the water. Generally if you pull up and then forward the boat will come on the dock easily. Place the bow line on the boat deck and pull the boat up from either side of the bow. This helps to prevent tripping on the bow line. Remember the grey plastic part of the dock is slippery especially when it gets wet. 10. Proper location on the dock. Pull your boat up onto the dock far enough that there is About 1 ft behind the boat. The bow should be just at the edge of the grey dock, but not hitting the hard wooden dock. The boats fit next to each other on the dock, with about 6-10 inches between each boat. To get the boats on the dock properly, you may need to readjust them, starting with the one closest to the sea wall. If you slide the boats sideways, YOU MUST lift from only one side, so that the boat is tipped, and then it slides without damaging the bottom and the centerboard gaskets. You do not want to hear a scraping sound. 11. The mainsheet should just be coiled and loosely placed over the mainsheet cleat. Do not over tighten. The bow line should be coiled and placed on the bow. 12. Wash both the inside and outside of the boat with fresh water using the scrub brushes in the dock boxes. 9

10 13. The boat should drain through the open holes in the back of the boat. If you loosen the stern drain plug, you must retighten it. Never leave the stern plug loose. 14. Report any damage or broken parts or accidents in the Capri Sign-Out Logbook, to the dock master or the Sailing Office. In class be sure to tell your instructor of any problems you have found. 15. Lock the dock boxes and rudder/tiller rack and double check that your boat is put away properly. Note if you have capsized: If your sails are wet, either from capsizing, or falling into the water you should wash them with fresh water and let them completely dry before putting them away. If there is not enough time to thoroughly dry the sails, it is better to leave them wet with SALT water. Fresh water will cause the sails to mildew, which is permanent and will ruin the sails. If you have to leave the sails wet in the dockbox, leave the salt water. This can be washed out and does not cause as much damage. Mud definitely needs to be washed out. You will also need to rinse off the boats including all the rigging such as the mast etc. Salt water is very corrosive, and should be rinsed off thoroughly. The boats and rigging will air dry. If you have capsized and there is mud on the mast, take extra time to completely rinse it, especially the very top of the mast. Lifejackets or PFD s Another term for a lifejacket is a PFD or Personal Flotation Device. Everyone should wear a PFD when sailing, especially in small boats like the Capri s. The U.S. Coast Guard requires that there be a PFD for each person on all boats 16 and under (Capri s are 14 feet). Larger boats have additional equipment requirements. When sailing a UCI Capri you must always wear a PFD. Non-swimmers are not allowed in classes and UCISA members should not take non-swimmers out sailing. (PFD s are not a substitute for swimming.) Children 11 years old and under are required by California law to wear a lifejacket at all times when sailing in an open cockpit boat like the Capri s or our Shields. We do not have Children s PFD s, so plan ahead if you are taking children out sailing and provide an appropriately sized child s lifejacket. You are 10

11 responsible to be sure that there is a PFD for everyone on your boat. The Harbor Patrol may issue you a citation of not in compliance with the rules about lifejackets. It is important to check that your PFD fits you properly. They should fit snug enough so that it will stay snug even in the water. UCI provides comfortable, wearable, vest-type PFDs for classes and organized events and everyone must wear them. They are very comfortable and an important part of boating safety. There are some of these lifejackets available for UCISA use, but it is best to get your own proper fitting PFD once you start to sail outside of your class. Getting Underway 1. Getting into the boats: Small boats, like the Capri, with centerboards are called dinghies. Dinghies use the centerboard to provide lateral stability. To get into the boat, pull the boat close to the dock, step into the center of the boat, and lower the centerboard. 2. Crew Position in the Boat The skipper should sit facing the sail, and should be forward enough to sit completely in front of the tiller. One hand should always be on the tiller and the other hand should be holding the main sheet. You should have your feet underneath you so that you can move easily in the boat. The crew should sit forward of the skipper. If there are 3 sailors in the boat, the 2 crew members generally sit on opposite sides of the boat, across from each other, and forward of the skipper. This will keep the boat balanced. The maximum number of people allowed in a UCI Capri is three. The skipper should be sure to be comfortable controlling the mainsheet and the cleat. Practice releasing and cleating the mainsheet several time before you go out. The mainsheet cleat stops the mainsheet so you do not have to hold it so tight. Cam cleats are used on the Capri s. These release by pulling up on the sheet. The tiller extension should be held in place with the clip for your first sail. You will soon learn to use the extension. 11

12 3. Steering The skipper steers the boat by using the tiller. When you push the tiller to the right side, (starboard) the boat turns to the left (port) and vice versa. In order for the tiller and rudder to turn the boat effectively, the boat must be moving through the water. Hold the tiller in the center of the boat until you get a bit of forward speed. (Be patient) The boat will respond to small movements of the tiller once it is moving. Many beginners tend to over-steer. When sailing, the tiller is generally held in the center of the boat or centerline, allowing you to sail a steady course. As the wind increases, there will be a bit more pressure or resistance on the tiller. The tiller will shake or feel like it is pulling away from you. Too much pressure means you need to adjust the sails. 4. Keeping the boat level side to side. When you first start sailing, the boat may tip or heel as the wind hits the sail. The first thing you should remember is to use the sail (and the mainsheet which is the line that controls the mainsail) as your brake or accelerator. When you want to stop the boat, let out the sail. It will luff or flutter and there will be no power in the sail. Remember if you luff too long, the boat will stop and you will lose the ability to steer the boat. While sailing you want to keep the boat moving forward so that you have steering control. If you let out the sail, let out enough to stop it from heeling, but not so much that you stop. Once you get better at sailing you will feel how much to ease or let out the sail. 12

13 You may also use the weight of the skipper and crew to balance the boat. Have the crew sit on the same side as the skipper. (Remember the skipper sits opposite the sail). This will keep the weight on the high side. You can also move further out and actually sit up on the rail. This is called hiking out. Your First Sail Generally in our sailing classes you will start out by sailing across the base at approximately 90 degrees to the wind (the wind will be blowing over the side of the boat at about the middle of the boat). Remember you will sail essentially straight, holding the tiller in one hand and the mainsheet in the other. Your position is important so you can move comfortable and efficiently in the boat. Below is a basic reminder of what you did on your first sail. Pick a point to sail towards, either the mark, or find a visual point of reference on land, again your course should be about 90 degrees to the wind. This will help you stay at a constant angle to the wind. Remember to keep you eyes outside of the boat, and alternate between looking ahead for traffic and your direction and at the front edge of the sail. (Your crew members can help look for traffic too) Adjust your sail, by letting it out just until it luffs a bit (flutters), and then pull it in just enough to stop it from fluttering. By letting it out, you are checking that it is not trimmed too much. If it begins to luff and is now too loose, pull it in just enough to stop it from luffing. Always check your course to monitor that you have not changed your course without realizing it. 13

14 Turning Your Boat As you start your first sail, you will be 90 degrees to the wind. (This means that as you point forward, the wind will be hitting the side of your boat at a 90 degree angle.) As you sail out from the base, you will need to turn you boat. You will want to initially turn so the front of your boat crosses the wind as you turn. This is called a tack. To tack, you will turn by pushing the tiller towards the sail. You will need to change sides with the sail, as the front of your boat crosses the wind. Face forward and do not let go of the tiller when you tack, and keep hold of the mainsheet too. If you turn the other direction, it is called a jibe, and the back of the boat crosses the wind, and your sail will not luff. In general you need to keep boat speed so you have steerage. Use the sails and your weight to keep the boat from tipping or heeling too much. Rules of thumb for first days: When in doubt let it out ( It means the sail). This will help you keep from tipping too much, or stop you if you get in trouble. 14

15 Docking: On your first sail you also learned to dock your boat. (With a little help from your instructor) See the section on docking. Remember, you will need to dock so that your boat is facing into the wind. Finding the wind Finding the wind direction is a key factor in learning to sail. The wind direction and speed are variables. The wind direction will generally shift in 5-10 degree increments, but at times can shift much more. In Newport the wind has general trends, but always be prepared for changes. To find the wind direction, you can look at the yarn on the shrouds of your boat, the wind indicators at the top of the bigger boats at the base, and flags. You can also feel the wind on your face. The first thing you should do when you are preparing for a sail, is check the wind direction, and then recheck it to see if it has shifted or changed. Wind velocity is also a variable. Even when the wind seems consistent, there will be brief increases called puffs and decreases called lulls. If you get used to checking the weather before you get to the sail base, you will get a general idea of what the weather will be for that day. See the appendix for some helpful weather websites. New Terms Here are few terms that will be used as you learn more about sailing. Windward: The direction toward the wind source, or where the wind is blowing from. Leeward: The side away from the wind source. You will have a windward side of the boat and a leeward side of the boat. You will have a windward dock and a leeward dock or one boat may be to windward of another boat. These terms are use in lots of concepts and refer to the position relative to the wind. 15

16 No Go Zone Once you find the wind direction, you can begin to understand how to use the wind to make your boat sail. Sailboats can not sail directly into the wind. The closest to the wind that most sailboats can sail is 45 degrees, which means there is a 90 degree area that you can not sail in. This is the No Go Zone. 16

17 Basic Maneuvers: Turning the Boat Tacking and Jibing As we mentioned on your first sail, there are two basic ways to turn your boat around and on both of these; the boom and the sails will changes sides, and the skipper and crew need to duck so they do not get hit in the head during the turn. Tacking or coming about: Turning the bow through the wind. The skipper pushes the tiller towards the sail and the boat will begin to turn, heading into the wind. The boat will complete its turn as the bow crosses the eye of the wind and the sail will fill on the other side. As the boat heads into the wind, the sails will luff and the boat will level out. This will allow the skipper to change sides and again face towards the sail. Push the tiller firmly and completely across the boat, but not too fast. Once the boat has completed the tack, the skipper will return the tiller to the centerline of the boat to steer a steady course and the skipper will adjust the sails. Never let go of the tiller or the mainsheet while tacking. Face forward while you are changing sides and switch the tiller from one hand to the other behind your back. You should keep the main sheet loosely in your hands while you tack. You should be stepping across the boat as the sail changes sides. Tacking is the safest manner in which you change the boat s direction. It is safer because the sails luff. Remember to look over your shoulder before you tack to be sure that it is clear for you on your new course. The jib sail is released just as the tack is started and the crew brings it on the new side after the bow crosses the wind and the main sail fills. Do not force it around. Be sure the old jib sheet is released. You only use one jib sheet at a time, the sheet away from the sail, the lazy sheet, should be slacked. The jib sheet can easily be released, by just flicking it out of the cleat. Remember: To tack, push the tiller towards the sail so that the bow crossing into the wind. Tacking is used when you are changing directions while sailing upwind or at 90 degrees to the wind. If you are changing directions when sailing away from the wind, you will usually need to jibe. (See below) 17

18 Jibing: The stern crosses through the wind. The skipper moves the tiller away from the sail and the boat will turn away from the wind. When the stern crosses through the wind the sail will swing quickly over the other side of the boat and fill with wind on that side. Because of the quickness of this maneuver, beginning sailors should come about (tack) rather than perform the potentially more dangerous jibe when turning around. The sail does not luff when jibing. As you get more skilled you will learn to jibe safely. You generally jibe when sailing away from the wind. To start a jibe, begin by heading away from the wind and let your sail out all the way. To control the speed of your jibe, you must be sailing downwind before beginning to turn around. Turn only as much as you need to bring the sail across. Do not over-turn. Use your weight to balance the boat and change sides as the sail comes across. Remember: The boom will swing across the boat and you can control the jibe by bringing the main sheet in, center it when you actually are jibing, and then let it out on the new side. Have the crew watch their heads as you change sides. The jib can be brought across as the mainsail comes across. When the boom swings across without you intending it to, it is said to be an accidental jibe. The skipper should be careful to not let this happen. Knowing the direction of the wind is a key to controlling your jibe. Jibing can be very dangerous in stronger winds, so remember you can always change direction by tacking all the way around. If the sail begins to jibe and you do 18

19 not want to or are not ready, push the tiller towards the sail to turn your boat more up wind. This will stop an accidental jibe. Basic Commands When you need to turn the boat, and go back the other way, you should tell your crew what you intent to do before it happens. If you are tacking the boat (turning into the wind), the skipper should announce his intention by saying, prepare to come about. The crew should respond with ready. The skipper will give the command of tacking, helm s a lee or coming about as he begins to tack. At this point the skipper will change sides so that he is again on the side opposite or facing the sail. The crew changes sides as needed to balance the boat. If you are turning away from the wind, or jibing, the commands are ready to jibe. The crew should let the skipper know that they are ready. The skipper then may say jibing as you start to turn. It is important to communicate between the skipper and the crew. Both skipper and crew should look around before you say ready to make sure that it is clear to turn. You must look over your shoulder to the direction you will be heading after a tack or a jibe. Using the jib On your first day or two of class, you will sail with just the mainsail. As you progress, you will sail with the jib. The principals of sail trim are basically the same for both sails. The jib should be on the same side as the mainsail, adjusted at the same angle to the wind, and pulled in with only one jib sheet. The exception is when you are sailing directly down wind with the wind directly behind you. Sometimes at this point, you pull the jib around to the opposite side of the main sail. This is called sailing wing and wing and is a more advanced skill. There are two jib sheets on a Capri 14. Lead each jib sheet around the outside of the shrouds through the jib cleat. Only one of these sheets is used at a time. Adjust the jib sheet in and out as you would the main. Make sure the windward sheet or a lazy sheet is completely released and slack so that the sail can fully fill on the leeward side. The crew will control the jib and needs to remember to face forward so that they can see the jib sail. When tacking the skipper will say prepare to tack, you should release the jib from the cleat, but not let it loose. As you tack, let it loose. Do not bring the jib in to the new side after a tack until it crosses and is blown to the new side on its own. Then you can pull it in. On a jibe the jib sheet is also trimmed in after it changes sides. 19

20 If you pull the jib sheet before the sail flutters across the deck to the other side in its own, you may end up back winding or backing the jib sail. When this happens the jib fills from the backside and prevents your boat from completing the turn. Points of Sail. Points of sail can also be referred to as the basic sailing directions relative to the wind. These points are on a continuum and not fixed. Points of sail terminology will be used by your instructor and other sailors when they want you to change course. 1. Head to Wind: When your boat is pointing directly into the wind you are head to wind. This is also called the no go zone. You are unable to sail when head to wind, as the wind cannot fill your sails. 2. Close-Hauled: A close-hauled boat is positioned approximately 45 degrees off the wind. This is the closest angle that your boat will effectively sail. The sails will be pulled all the way over the leeward corner of your boat. 3. Close Reach: A close reach boat is sailing approximately 70 degrees relative to the wind. The sails will be somewhat farther out over the side of the boat. 4. Beam Reach: A beam reach boat is sailing with the wind blowing over the side of the beam of the boat - a 90-degree angle off the wind. The sail will be eased out even further over the side of the boat. 5. Broad Reach: A boat on the broad reach is sailing away from the wind with the wind blowing over the windward corner of the boat - about a 120 degree angle. The sail will be eased out over the side of the boat as it is being pushed by the wind. 5. Running: A boat sailing away from the wind with the wind blowing from directly behind is on a run or running. The sails will be all the way out at about a 90-degree angle to the wind. Sailing towards the wind is referred to as sailing upwind. Close hauled is the closest to the wind you can sail, and close reaching is slightly off that course. As you steer more away from the wind or downwind, you will be beam reaching (what you did the first day), then broad reaching and then you will sail directly down wind or running. You will need to adjust your sails 20

21 when you change course, or if there is a wind shift. The sails are essentially your brakes and accelerator, or the power source for your boat. How Sails Work Sailors often do not understand how a sail really works. There are two ways that the wind and sail interact to move a boat. In one mode, sails bend the wind and this creates a lift, which actually pulls a boat forward. In another mode, the sails simply block the wind and the boat is pushed forward. Remember these principles of push and pull. When you are sailing downwind, you are in the push mode. When you sail closer to the wind (reaching and beating) you are in the pull mode. Sails are designed with a curved shape. When wind hits the sails this curved surface bends the wind as it flows across both sides of the sail and generates lift. This lift is your boat s power and it pulls the boat forward and sideways. The centerboard keeps the boat from slipping sideways and allows the wind power to pull the boat forward. Lift occurs when sailing towards the wind or from beam reach to close-hauled. 21

22 At other times the sail blocks the wind, which pushes the boat forward. This occurs when you are sailing directly away from the wind or downwind from a broad reach and running. Your sails control the amount of power you get from the wind, and therefore your speed. Proper sail adjustment is important. When the sails are luffing or flapping, no power is obtained. This is the how you use the sails as a brake. To get power you need the air flowing across both sides of the sail. You use your sheets to adjust your sails for the best angle to the wind. In addition to using your mainsheet to control the sail s angle to the wind, you will later learn how to use other adjustments to make adjustments to the sail shape. Sail shape is a topic that you may want to do further study as you increase your sailing skills. There is a lot to learn. Sail Trim Basics A course change to bring your bow closer to the wind is called heading up. As you change course closer to the wind, your sail will need readjusting. It will begin to luff, so pull it in until the luffing stops, thereby properly adjusting the sail. A course change further from the wind is called falling off. Again, your sails will need readjusting. As you steer away from the wind, ease out your sail until it just begins to luff. Pull in the sail to stop luffing and your sail is now properly set. Although your course may stay the same, the wind will often shift, requiring sail adjustments to match wind direction changes. If the wind shifts towards the front of your boat, pull the sails in. If the wind shifts towards the stern of your boat, let the sails out. The exception to this practice is if you are already sailing close hauled (see below). 22

23 Sailing on a reach The general rule of thumb for sailing on any reaching course is to let the sail out until it luffs, and pull it in just enough to stop it from luffing. During your first lesson, you were sailing on a Beam reach. On a beam reach your sails are about half way out. When reaching, your sails are constantly adjusted to the course and wind changes. Keep the tiller mostly still and balance the weight of the skipper and crew in the boat to keep it level. To practice trimming the sails, start by picking an object on shore and steer the boat directly toward it. Adjust both the sails by letting them out. As the sails go out, they will eventually begin to flutter or luff, especially along the forward edge of the sail (which is also called the luff). At that point, you should pull the mainsheet and the jib sheet in, causing the sails to tighten, until the luffing stops. Now your sails are properly adjusted for your course. Remember, that the wind will continually shift directions and you will change course so you constantly make small adjustments. If another Capri 14 is going much faster than your boat on the same course through the water, it could be that your sails are luffing, or are over trimmed (pulled in too much). If your sails are improperly adjusted, or over trimmed, you may heel (tip) too much or have extra pressure on your tiller. This is especially true in heavy wind. In light air, if your sails are too tight, you will go very slowly. 23

24 Sailing to Windward The principles of proper sail trim are modified when you sail to windward or on a close hauled course. Sailing upwind or sailing to windward requires additional practice. In sailing upwind, the technique for optimum performance is to hold the sail trim mostly steady and vary the course to take advantage of the slight changes in the wind direction. You now hold mostly the same sail trim, because your sails are already pulled in as far as they can go (the mainsail only to the boat s leeward corner). So when your sails luff, you cannot pull them in further and you will have to make a course change away from the wind to fill the sails. Your boat will not sail effectively at an angle of less than 45 degrees to the wind remember the no go zone. At that point, the sail will begin to luff, and you will lose all boat speed through the water. To sail into the direction of the wind, you need to make a series of tacks. This means you sail close hauled on one tack, and then change direction and go closed hauled in the other direction. You will sail back and forth in a zig-zag pattern sailing 45 degrees to the wind on each side. This is like using switchbacks to hike up a mountain. The more efficiently you sail, the quicker you will get upwind. This is referred to as sailing to windward, tacking, or beating. When you are sailing to windward, if you keep sailing too close to the wind, you will find yourself headed into the wind, sails luffing and eventually you will lose your speed. You are now in the no-go zone. Once you are not moving it is called being in irons. If the boat is heeling let out or ease the main sail. You can also head closer to the wind to luff sails. Both of these maneuvers will help the boat to level out. Be careful not to let the sail luff more than just a little, or you will lose speed and maneuverability. Heeling the boat too much is not efficient. The forces on the sail and rudder loose their effectiveness. You will learn to feel the proper angles for boats as you sail more. 24

25 In Irons You can get stuck in irons generally from two basic mistakes. If you do not complete your tack and remain pointing into the wind, you will lose your speed or momentum and your ability to steer the boat. To avoid this, complete each tack fully. If you keep your eyes outside the boat, and have a general idea of where your new course should be, you can avoid this. Also be sure you have enough speed to complete the tack. Bringing the jib in too early (before it has filled on its own on the new side) will also cause getting into irons. Let the wind blow the jib across to the new side, then sheet it in, don t force the sail over by pulling the sheet in too quickly. The other way the newer sailors get into irons is by continually luffing the sails. Eventually you will lose speed, and then the ability to steer the boat. The boat will then be stuck in irons and not moving. Getting out of Irons: Without speed, you cannot steer with your tiller. In order to get out of irons, you need to get some speed. The easiest way to get moving forward again is to start sailing backwards, by just letting the boat drift backwards and then turn towards the direction 25

26 you need to go (i.e. about 70 degrees to wind). When your boat is moving backwards, your tiller works differently than when you are moving forward. When moving backwards, push the tiller the way you want to go. Luff both sails (making sure the jib sheets are released) and let your boat drift backwards. Once you are moving, push your tiller the way you want the boat to turn and you will back around. Once you have turned away from the wind, center the tiller and wait a few seconds before sailing forward. The Capri s need several seconds with the tiller held in the center of the boat, to allow it to be in neutral before you can start sailing forward and regain the use of the tiller to steer your boat. Be prepared to change sides as this happens, so you are on the high side or facing the main sail. An alternative way is to use your mainsail to start your boat sailing backwards. Push your mainsail out all the way (90 degrees to the wind) and let it fill backwards. Push your tiller to the same side and you will back around and eventually end up facing that direction. Once you have turned about 90 degrees to wind (beam reach), pull in your sail, center your tiller and start sailing forward. Be sure to push the tiller and mainsail to the same side, which is the way you want it to turn. Remember when your boat is moving backwards, push the tiller the way you want to turn the bow. (Reverse of how tiller works when moving forward.) When you are stuck close to boats, or docks, remember to steer away from the boats, and back towards the middle of the channel. Better yet is to avoid this in the first place by keeping your boat moving. Sailing Downwind When you sail away from the wind, you are running. On this point of sail the wind only flows on one side of the sail and your boat is pushed. It is important to pay attention to where the wind is coming from. It should be pointing towards your sail, not coming from the same side as your sail. If you allow the wind to come from the same side that the sail is on, you may have an accidental jibe. This is when the boom swings over quickly and unexpectedly. This is especially dangerous in windy conditions. When the wind is coming from the same side as the mainsail, you are sailing by the lee. Often it is safer to sail a bit closer to the wind to avoid accidently getting caught with the wind on the wrong side. You also need to steer with small movements to keep the boat stable when sailing downwind. This is very important in heavy wind as the boat will tend to rock from side to side and be tippy. When sailing downwind your sails will be all the way out and you will need to balance the weight in the boat to keep it level. The skipper should sit opposite the sail and the crew should be 26

27 prepared to change sides to maintain boat balance. The tiller should be keep basically centered, with little adjustments. When you are sailing directly downwind (running), the mainsail will block the flow of the wind to the jib. In this situation, you can try sailing wing and wing, where the jib is on the opposite side as the mainsail. Release the jib sheet and pull the jib around to the windward side of the boat. Often you will need to hold the jib sheet in your hand to keep the jib in proper position. The jib needs to be loose and be flying out near the bow of the boat, similar to the angle of the mainsail. Controlled jibing: When you are jibing from a broad reach to a broad reach, the skipper pulls in the mainsail before the jibe so that the sail is centered over the cockpit. A small tiller adjustment is made and then the sail is it let out quickly as the boom changes sides. The skipper changes sides with the sail. As the boom crosses the centerline, center the tiller and then turn it just enough to keep the boom on the new side of the boat. If you want to change course further, do so after the jibe is completed. Notes on jibing: The crew should keep the boat balanced through the jibe. Both the skipper and the crew need to watch their heads and duck as the boom crosses over. The skipper should 27

28 face forward and change hands with the tiller and mainsheets behind her back as the sail crosses. You will get better with this as you practice. Safety Position Safety position allows you to safely stop your boat to change skipper and crew positions or make rigging adjustments. Your instructor will also use it when they need you to stop or slow down to give instructions, or if there is a problem. Sail on a close reach (the wind 70 degrees to the center of boat) and let your sails out. Your boat will slow down and level out with the sails luffing outside of the cockpit. Your boat should come almost to a complete stop. Allow enough room for your boat to drift forward before you go into this position. To get going again, simply sheet in your main sail. 28

29 Leaving the Dock In your first class your instructor will help you get away from the dock, but as you progress, you will need to be able to get off independently. First double check the wind direction and make sure that you are still headed into the wind. Determine what direction your boat needs to be in order to start sailing. The idea is to get your boat turned away from the wind, at least to a 60 degree angle so that the wind can fill your sails, and so you can have steerage to get you sailing. It will take several seconds for your boat to pick up speed, and for you to therefore have steerage. Be patient. The following instructions apply when the wind is blowing at a 90 degree angle to the entrance of the lagoon, or straight down the channel. Before you push off, check the traffic in the channel, and for other boats that are trying to dock in the lagoon. The docks at the sailbase can often be crowded. Depending on the wind and if you have space, you can turn the side of your boat to the dock to push off. Step into the boat and start sailing. If the docking area is crowded, gently push your boat directly backwards, using that speed to turn your boat until you are at an angle you can sail. Remember if you are moving backwards, your tiller works the opposite way, so gently push the tiller the way you want your bow to turn. Just before you get to your course out of the lagoon, center the tiller and hold it there. Once you have completely stopped moving backwards, you can adjust your sail and start sailing forward. Often you will need to walk your boat to the end of the docking area, closest to the channel, to make it easier to set sail. This is often the best place to set sail from when the wind is blowing straight into the docking area. Experience and practice in the boats will make launching easier. As you are leaving the lagoon, remember to fend off any other boats so you do not scratch the hull. It is never acceptable to run into or hit another boat. Returning to the Dock When you are getting ready to return to the dock, again you need to find out where the wind is coming from. You will want to end up with your boat pointing into the wind. Since the wind does shift directions, you may be docking to a different side than the side you launched from. Check that the docking area is clear and that there are not any boats leaving the docks. Enter the lagoon, and luff both your sails to slow the boat down. Plan your approach to have as much room as possible to head directly into to the wind. If you make a sharp turn, you will kill your speed 29

30 and be able to slowly approach the dock. Avoid hitting the dock straight on. As you get close to the dock continue to turn slightly to bring the side of the boat rather than the bow to the dock. As you turn, the boat will heel a bit if it is windy, just keep it balanced. Also the mainsail will come to the center of the boat, just let it luff and watch your head. Do not let go of the tiller as you dock. Again practice will make this easier, and you will learn to make adjustments for different wind direction, velocity and the congestion. Be careful as you get out of the boat to tie it up. Do not jump to the docks. You can scull the boat if you are going too slow. 30