There's enough information in this article to help you design and build an attractive wood deck.

Transcription

1 HOW TO BUILD A DECK Introduction Few home improvements can match a wood deck for usefulness, beauty and enhanced value to a home. For adults, decks offer outdoor living space for entertaining, sun bathing and dining. For children, they provide an excellent outdoor play area. But the best news about a deck is that it is an ideal home improvement construction project for the average handyman or woman. Design is straightforward. No advanced carpentry skills or sophisticated tools are needed. If you can hammer a nail, saw on a straight line, and read a level, then building a deck should present no major problems. What's more, the use of pressure-treated lumber helps assure that your project will be virtually maintenance-free and will provide enjoyment for decades to come. You won't even have to paint or stain the wood, unless you want to. Left unfinished, it weathers to a rustic gray. It is a good idea to seal the deck periodically to prevent the wood from checking, however. There's enough information in this article to help you design and build an attractive wood deck. Tools Building a deck is easier and usually better done when proper tools are used. Certain property and construction conditions may necessitate special tools, but the following list will suffice for most deck projects: circular saw power drill tape measure hammer chalk line level combination square framing square hand saw For safety,the following are recommended: gloves

2 goggles dust mask Preliminary Planning The location and design of your deck should be influenced by several factors: *Anticipated use (private sunbathing, large parties, family relaxation, outdoor cooking) *Air currents (allow flow of gentle breezes, block out prevailing winds) *Existing structure (should be compatible) *Sunlight (desire sun or shade) *Privacy (screen certain areas, avoid street noise, landscaping) *View (emphasizes a good view, mask a poor one) *Safety (children or grandchildren, senior citizens) *Access to home (adjoin kitchen, living room or bedroom) *Terrain (elevated deck, ground level, split level) *Other personal needs and preferences Decks originally gained popularity as a way of adding outdoor living space on hillside lots. However, many decks today are built on level ground where they offer firm, dry footing close to the home. Decks can be built just inches high or elevated will above the ground. They may be freestanding or attached to the home or other building. They can even be built in a second-story above a garage, carport, or other roofed structure. It's important; of course, to make certain the deck does not seal access to any utility or drainage lines. If you aren't sure of the location or depth of buried electric, telephone, gas, water or sewer lines, it's a good idea to ask your utilities. Keep in mind how you intend to use your deck. Will it accommodate benches, lounge chairs, perhaps a table for outdoor dining? How many people will be using the deck at any given time? These are elements which must be considered in planning for proper size and design. Once you have decided on the basic size, shape and location of your deck, check local building codes. You may find that there are restrictions as to height and size within your sub-division or community. A construction permit will probably be needed, but don't apply for one until you've finalized your planning. Don't order any lumber or start work until you're sure that your plans meet local requirements. The information provided here should meet any local codes, but you will need to check to see if there are any particular requirements in your town.

3 Construction tips Here are some additional suggestions that may help you in building your deck. o Always nail a thinner member to a thicker member. o Drive nails at a slight angle toward each other for greater holding power. o When toenailing, stagger opposing nails so they pass each other. o Nails and other hardware should be hot-dipped zinc-coated (galvanized) or equally well-protected material. Otherwise, weather may cause them to rust, leaving streaks on your deck. o For maximum holding power, use ring- or spiral-shank nails. They can help reduce warping of lumber. o To reduce splitting, when nailing close the the edge of a board, drill a pilot hole about three quarters the diameter of the nail. For dense or brittle wood, blunt the points by striking them carefully with a hammer. Blunt nails cut through; sharp ones pry apart. o Place nails no close to the edge than about half the board thickness and no closer to the end than the thickness of the board. When nailing closer to the edge, pre-drill holes. o Use 16d nails on nominal two-inch decking. Use two at each joint with 2 x 4's laid flat; use three for 2 x 6's laid flat. o Mill ends may not be square. Resquare and trim the ends. Take this step into consideration when figuring lengths and finished deck size. IT is a good idea to leave all the deck boards slightly longer than the finished size and cut them all to the final dimension after they are all nailed down. o With lag screws, use flat washer under head. o Use washers under nut and head of machine bolts and just under nut of carriage bolts. o Wear gloves to help avoid splinters. o Tops of upright structurals and joist ends should be beveled to a 30 to 45 degree angle for drainage to minimize moisture (see fig. 18, page 11). While pressure-treated wood resists end rot, it remains subject to splitting, checking and chipping caused by moisture-induced swelling and subsequent shrinkage, therefore sealing the deck is a good idea to protect the surface. o When staining wood, follow the manufacturers' instructions. Wood should be dry for best results. o Remember, you are about to do finish work, not rough framing. The results will be visible for years to come. There is no substitute for good construction techniques and workmanship. (This is not intended to scare you, just remind you.) DESIGN Decks consist of six parts: footings, posts, beams, joists, decking and railing. In planning for these you have three basic considerations: function, structural stability, and appearance.

4 The aesthetics of your deck will probably be most noticeable in your choice of railing and decking, but the location of posts and beams can have a major effect on the appearance of a raised deck. In almost every instance, your choice lies between several small pieces of lumber or comparatively fewer large ones. A railing, for example, may be held by 2 x 4 posts spaced every 16 inches or less, or it may have 4 x 4 posts capped by a 2 x 6 spaced as far apart as eight feet. (Note: a 2 x 4 isn't always 2" x 4". Actual size of finished dry lumber is typically 1/2 inch smaller than the nomimal size. Your best guide at this stage is to look at various deck plans and inspect decks completed by friends and neighbors to help decide what you like best. Choosing decking lumber presents similar alternatives. A popular choice is 2-inch thick lumber in widths of 4 or 6 inches. These can be alternated to make more interesting patterns. There is also 5/4 decking, which has rounded (bullnosed) edges to give the deck boards a more finished, softer look. Develop your own design using the tables and information that follow. Clicking on the table reference will bring you to the table page. There will be an easy return link back to here on the table page. Take a look at the Tables 1 through 5. The figures given are for maximum spans using pressure-treated wood. Inferior grade wood will not safely span the distances in these tables. More on how to use the tables will follow below. The design and construction information presented here is for normal usage. If special loading conditions are anticipated or unusual circumstances exist, consult a competent designer. SUPPORTING A DECK Elevated decks have generally been supported by 4x4 and 6x6 solid timber posts. Under a properly designed deck, these can provide very satisfactory support. Deck posts support the deck above, they are its foundation. The first consideration, then, should be the ability of a post to support the structure and the people on it. ACCESSORIES AND CONNECTORS Some of the special connectors and accessories that you should be familiar with are: Lag screws Expansion bolt (for bolting into the cement foundation, if necessary) Carriage bolt spiral nails ring shank nails joist hangers post fasteners (to fasten a wooden post to a cement footer) Make sure all connectors, nails, screws, bolts and related hardware are hot-dipped zinc-coated or otherwise rustproof. Remember, pressurized wood will remain in

5 serviceable condition long after ordinary nails and connectors have been weakened by corrosion. Rust will also cause unsightly stains. The same conditions that cause untreated wood to rot also cause metal to rust. USE THESE TABLES TO HELP PLAN YOUR DECK Let's say that your deck will extend eight feet from the house and be 14 ft. long. If it is to be just above ground level, there's little need for a railing. However, higher decks call for a sturdy railing. Table 1 shows the appropriate beam size. For example, the distance between the house and the beam is 8 ft. Using (2)2x12's as your beam members allows a span of 7 ft. between posts, a convenient figure for a deck 14 ft. long. A beam can be built up from two small pieces either nailed together or placed a few inches apart on either side of a post. Be sure you have a post under any joints in your beams. To calculate the size post needed, multiply the beam spacing (eight ft.) by the post spacing (7 ft.). This gives you the load area-56 square feet. Table 2 shows that for a load area less than 72 sq. ft. and a post height under 6 ft, a 4 x 4 post is adequate. Decking in this example will be a 2 x 6 boards, laid flat. Table 3 shows the safe spans for the decking. Now refer to Table 4. As in our example, your joists must span the 8 ft. between the house and the outer beam. That can be achieved with 2 x 8 joists spaced 24 inches apart. To avoid any springiness in your deck, however, you should design with joists 16 inches apart. If a railing is desired, refer to Table 5 to determine proper post sizes and spacing requirements. Be sure to check your local code here since the space between balusters is usually specified to be sure the small heads of children can not get stuck between them. Estimating After deciding the type, shape and size of deck you'll build, the next step is to estimate the materials you'll need. If you use a ready-made design, and the materials list is provided, this work is already done for you. But if you design your own deck, or use a variation from a standard plan, you'll have to estimate material requirements. In estimating, it's better to overestimate since you can always use any excess material in other projects, such as benches or planter boxes. There is nothing worse than running out of material and dashing off to the lumber yard before they close (hopefully) right in the middle of the project. (On the other hand, you may just looking for a break!) First, draw a simple sketch of the deck; decking, rails, footings, posts and beams. Sketch the deck to scale, perhaps ¼" per foot. To save money, stick to standard lumber sizes and lengths to the fullest extent possible. For example, deck boards are usually stocked 2 x 4, 2,x 6, or 5/4 x 6 inch and 8, 10, 12,14 and 16 foot lengths. I usually keep a sale flier from the lumber yard handy to be sure I know what sizes of

6 lumber stock. For the decking, calculate using actual dimensions (5 ½ for a 6 in boards) and don't allow for spacing between boards. (More on that later, but I recommend little or no gap between the boards). We present the second part of this article with step by step instructions in How To Build A Deck Part 2. Table 1 Minimum Beam Sizes Return to How to build a deck Table 2 Minimum Post sizes Load Area (sq. ft)= Height beam spacing x post spacing (ft) up to 6 4x4 4x4 6x6 up to 8 6x6 6x6 6x6 Vertical loads figured as concentric along axis. No Lateral loads considered Table 3 Recommended Spans for spaced deck boards Spans in Inches Laid Flat Laid on Edge 5/4x4 5/4x6 2x4 2x6 2x /24** 16 16/24** 48 **Although 24 inches is a safe span, undesirable deflection or springiness may occurr. Return to How to build a deck

7 Table 4 Maximum allowable spans for deck joists Joist size Joist spacing (inches) x6 9'-9" 7'-11" 2x8 12'-10" 10'-6" 2x10 16'-5" 13'-4" Table 5 Railings Distance Post Cap between size size posts (inches) (inches) 2' to 3' 2x4 2x4 3' to 4' 2x4, 4x4 2x4, 2x6 4' to 6' 2x6, 4x4 2x6 Side rails can be nominal 1" or 2" lumber of varying widths Tables are based on lumber with 1200 psi bearing stress rating and a live load of 40 psf.

8 STEP-BY STEP METHOD OF DECK CONSTRUCTION Step 1 when it is done. Mark off the deck area using string and "batterboards" making sure that it is square. Batterboards are boards hammered in to the ground just outside the corners of where the deck will be. See Fig 1. The string will help you visualize the size and appearance of the finished deck and will also serve as a guide for excavation and post placement. But trust me, it will always look smaller this way than SQUARING WITH STRING 1. Attach string to house and/or batterboards to make sure its level. 2. Use a felt tip marker to mark the string 3' from the corner in one direction and 4' from the corner in other direction. 3. When the diagonal connecting these 2 points is 5', you have a right triangle and the angle at the corner will be 90. Note: To obtain the 5' measurement, move the string attached to batter board to the left or right until correct.

9 Step 2 Prepare the site. With a spade or sod cutter, remove sod to a depth of 2 or 3 ". Uncover an area approximately 2 ft. larger than the planned deck. It's unlikely that grass would be able to grow in the shadow of your deck, so you might as well transfer the sod to a bare spot in your yard where it would be useful. To prevent weeds and unwanted vegetation from growing up through the deck, spread a sheet of polyethylene film over the area. You'll have to slit this to embed posts in the ground. After the posts have been installed, cover the sheet with gravel, pebbles or wood chips. Step 3 A ledger/header board is the next step if you are attaching your deck to an existing structure. The placement of the ledger/header determines the level of the deck floor, so be sure it is positioned at the correct height and is horizontal. When fastening ledger/header boards to wood, the ledger should be held securely with bolts through the wall or lag screws. Use aluminum flashing to keep water from getting behind your ledger board. This should tuck up under your siding and bend down over the ledger, then down the face of the ledger board. Where aluminum or vinyl siding is in place, carefully cut siding away from house so that ledger/header board can be secured directly to the house. You may be able to use the bottom edge pieces of the siding above the deck to refinsh the lower edge, so save these if possible. See figure 2. I will assume the joists are hung from the ledger and not resting on it, but be sure you account for the height of your deck boards when figuring the placement of the ledger. (Typically just 1 ½ inches down from the final height of the deck.)

10 Step 4 Locate and dig holes for footings. In normal soil the holes should be a minimum of 24 to 36 inches deep, although the actual depth will depend on the height of the column and the depth of the frost line. Posts should go deeper than the frost line to avoid heaving during freeze and thaw cycles. Again, this is usually specified by code when the deck is attached to the house. If you have many holes to dig and/or have difficult soil to dig in, you should rent a power posthole digger. These can be operated by one person, and certainly make the digging go MUCH faster. Typically to rent one will cost about $50 for a day.

11 You can use pressure treated wood in the ground for your footings as follows. Fill the bottom of the hole with 6 inches of gravel and place a wood footer plate (2" x 6", or 2" x 8" cut off) on top of the gravel. Upright posts can then be positioned on this base (Fig. 3). Fill the posthole with alternating layers of 4 to 5 inched of gravel and earth. Tamp each layer until the hole is filled and post is plumb and solid. If concrete collars are used, taper the tops downward and away from the post for drainage. Posts can also be set in concrete. Or my preferred method, uses a concrete footing to just above the ground level. Fill the post hole completely with concretet and use a section of "sono tube" (a heavy cardboard tube, 8 inches in diameter) to finish off the hole at ground level. Make sure you have already purchased the hardware to attach the posts to the concrete so you can set the bolts in the concrete while it is wet. For a complete article on preparing your footings see Post Holes (another article on this site). When setting the posts directly in the holes, make sure they are plumb and in alignment with one another. Use a carpenter's level to check for vertical alignment (Fig. 4).

12 One advantage of using the concrete footings and the wood attached to them above ground, is the leveling and exact location can be set later, when the beams are positioned. It allows for some adjusting later (a little, but that is all you are usually looking for.) Step 5 Secure beams to posts. Using a string and level, find the desired deck floor height on the posts. Or extend a long straight 2 by 4 from the ledger board to the posts and placing a level on the board, determine the post height. By subtracting the thickness of the joist (use the actual dimension not the nominal one), you will have determined the correct height for securing the top of the beam to the post. Carefully mark all 4 sides of the posts. Beams can rest on top of the post, or be fastened to the side. You may cut all posts except those serving as railing supports at this time. Fasten the beam to the post, keeping post and beam flush. Or set the beam atop the post nailing it down to the post. Step 6 Attach joists. Joists are attached to the house with joist hangers and/or supported by a ledger board. Joists are placed on 16" or 24" centers, and attached to the beams and ribbon joist. Joists can be attached to the beams using joist hangers, or rest on the beam. If the joists are to extend over a beam, do not extend them more than 1/3 of their length. Step 7 Install deck boards using hot-dipped zinc-coated 16-penny nails. Seperate boards using a small finishing nail as a spacer or set boards right up against each other. If pressure treated wood came dry, a space would be necessary for some

13 expansion may take place when it gets wet. However, it typically is quite wet and will always shrink. I have found that when placed tight against each other they will shrink leaving an adequate gap. If you leave to large a gap while they are still wet, the gap may get quite large. Your deck surface is an important part of your project, and the most visible. Make it simple with the boards set to end on the joists. If you could not get decking long enough to span your deck, stagger the butt end joints so they do not all end along the same joist. You can trim your deck after nailing to assure a straight line (see Fig. 5). Do not allow an overhang exceeding 1 ½". For a more finished appearance, cut boards flush to the joist and add a fascia board. If a board is slightly humped, install it with the bark side up when possible to minimize cupping. The weight of people and objects on the deck, and of the board itself, will tend to flatten it. A curved board can also be used; use a board to pry it to the desired position and nail securely. Step 8 Install posts for railing. These can be a continuation of the posts which support the deck, or railing posts may be bolted to the outside joist or joist extensions. Notice in Fig. 6 how the main posts continue up from the actual deck floor level and by doing so provide a good sturdy post. Intermittent posts or spacer posts can by used

14 between the main support posts. The top railing member can be easily nailed to the side of the main posts at desired height. Posts can then be cut off. Spacer post height can be determined and added for additional support and appearance. Railing cap of suitable size can now be added as well as additional rails. More railing ideas are illustrated below.

15 The safety and beauty of your deck are enhanced by its railings. They can be plain or very elaborate, offering as much opportunity for individual preference as a fence. Benches can be integrated into the railing on one or all sides. Bench seats should be at least 15" wide and 15" to 18" above the deck floor. Privacy screens can enhance the beauty of your deck, as well as offering you privacy. They can also be used effectively under an elevated deck to create a storage facility or hide an unsightly hillside. Step 9 Construct steps. Measure the vertical rise and decide upon the best riser size for each step. This will determine the number of steps needed. The adjecent table shows some

16 recommended ratios of tread length and riser height. Multiply the number of steps by the tread length to find the overall run of the stairs. Using 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 boards for treads will reduce cupping problems common with wider boards. It is also possible to purchase precut steps at certain lumberyards. A call ahead might eliminate some of the more difficult angle cutting you need to do. Good Luck!

17 Deck Structural Design OVERVIEW Introduction Now that you have the conceptual design for your deck, and you plan on doing this on your own, it is time to develop the structural elements and material specifications. No matter if you complete the project yourself or hire a contractor, this exercise will help you to get an understanding of the details of your deck. These specifications will be a part of the Construction Document you will either take to the building department for a permit, use to get bids on the project or use to build the deck yourself. You might have already begun thinking about the construction details and possibly have a pretty good idea of the components that make up a deck or have some good questions. And, unless you have special conditions, we will answer most of those questions here. Special conditions include steep slopes, unstable soil and specific building codes. If you are unsure where your project fits, check with a contractor or the building department. After you complete this tutorial, you will have a better idea whether to do-it-yourself or hire a contractor. So, grab your sketches and here we go. Beginner - 3 to 4 hours Intermediate - 2 to 3 hours Advanced - 1 to 2 hours Saving money by scrimping on materials or crowding the design tables will come back on you when the deck begins to age. Pay more now to save in the future. If you put this project out to bid, the estimates will be more "apples-for-apples" if the contractors have a detailed plan to bid from. The Construction Document you are creating here will help make this possible. Determine the direction the deck boards will run, this will influence the layout of the joists and girders. Most deck boards run parallel with the long dimension of the deck. Print out the Deck Spec and Materials list, which you can fill out in the following steps.

18 STEPS 1. Create a list: Fill in the blanks on the Deck Specs form. This information will give you the basis for completing the materials list. You should get the measurements from the conceptual plan created in the previous tutorial. The following steps will help you fill in the quantities for each item. When this list is complete, you will be able to set a budget for your deck project by getting an estimate from the lumberyard or putting the project out to bid. Make your own copy of this list and let's begin. 2. Estimate the ledger: Measure from your plans how many feet of wall will support the deck and add 10% for waste. Note: Always add a "waste factor," use 10% as a minimum. 3. Estimate concrete: This project calls for concrete pads measuring 18 inches by 18 inches by 12 inches deep. That equals 2.25 cubic feet per pad, times the number of pads to figure the total cubic feet. Verify the standard in your area, as many areas, especially in colder climates, require deeper pads. The goal is to have concrete pads that extend below the frost line, which could be as deep as 42". For each set of stairs add 2 cubic feet to support the bottom of the stairs. Don't forget to add the 10% to the total for waste; and, there are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard. Our 30 foot by 20 foot deck will have three rows of concrete pads with five pads in each row--15 concrete pads times 2.25 cubic feet (c.f.) equals c.f. plus 2 c.f. for a total of c.f. Don't forget the 10% waste factor. For this deck we will order c.f. Be sure to round up to the nearest available quantity. 4. Estimate concrete piers: Simply count the number of concrete pads; you will need a concrete pier for each pad. It is not necessary to include a waste factor for piers.

19 5. Estimate posts: You will need posts if your deck is over 18 inches above the ground. Count the number of concrete pads and multiply that number by the average height of the deck above the ground. Take care that the individual post heights fall evenly into a common 4x4 lengths; 4x4's come in two foot increments starting at 8 feet--8'-10'-12' and so on. 6. Estimate girders: The girders are 4x6's on this deck and will "run" the same direction as the deck boards. This plan calls for girders spaced 6 feet 8 inches apart and supported by piers every 6 feet (check applicable joist span tables). Girders should be supported on three piers where possible-- this will make the minimum desirable length 12 feet, remember the piers are 6 feet apart. Therefore the best girder lengths are multiples of six, and the longest manageable length will be 18 feet. Also, the girders must be supported at the ends on piers. For our deck there will be three "rows" of girders, each 30 feet long, for a total of 90 linear feet of 4x6. For this estimate add 10 % for waste, be sure to check for availability of the required lengths. 7. Estimate joists: The joists are spaced 16 inch on center and will run perpendicular to the girders and deck boards. To figure the number of joists, convert the length of the deck to inches (a 30 foot deck is 30 x 12 = 360 inches) and divide that by the 16-inch spacing (360 / 16 = 22.5) and round up (22.5 becomes 23.) Add 1 to that to figure the total number of joists. This deck will require 24 joists spaced at 16 inches on center. Multiply this number by the deck width (20 feet) to estimate the total linear feet of 2x6 joists, 460 linear feet plus 10% (46) equals 510 (round up.) 8. Estimate deck boards: This deck will have 2 x 6 decking, a 2 x 6 is usually 5 ½ inches instead of 6 as the name implies. So a standard 2 x 6 one foot long (a linear foot of 2x6) will cover.46 square feet. Our deck is 600 square feet (20 x 30) so there will be 600 /.46 = 1,304 linear feet of deck boards.be sure to include a 10% waste factor (134 feet) and the total is 1434 linear feet of 2 x Estimate stairs: This deck is 30 inches above the ground and has one set of stairs 36 inches wide. To figure the actual number of steps, divide 30 inches by 6 inches--5 steps, the last one being the deck itself. Height of deck above ground divided by 6 equal the number of steps. To figure stringer length, multiply the number of steps by 16 inches for each stringer. Our deck has five steps times 16 inches--80 inches-6 feet 8 inches. Stairs up to 36 inches wide have two stringers, and stairs over 36 inches have three stringers up to 6 feet for the stringers. The steps (the steps are 2x6 the same as the deck) have two 2x6's, times the width of the stairs. In this case, each step will have two 2x6's by 36 inches. Five steps will require 10 x 36 inch 2x6's or 30 lineal feet of material. Add this to the deck material order.

20 10 Estimate railings: This deck has guard railings on two sides and hand. railings on the stairs. Measure the open sides of the deck and add the stair rail. Get the stair rail length from the stair stringer length in step nine. Calculate one 8-foot 4x4 (post) for each 6 feet of rail, 2 feet of 2x4 (top and bottom rail) for each 1 foot of rail and 2.2 1x2 (baluster) for each foot of rail. There are three parts of the railing, the posts, the top and bottom rail and the balusters. 11 Hardware and fasteners: You will need galvanized nails, metal connectors. and bolts to connect your deck parts. Figure one pound of 16d galvanized nails for each 10 square feet of deck, use the double hot dipped galvanized kind. Each joist will require two joist hangars. Each post should have a post cap to connect it to the girder it supports. Figure one pound of galvanized nails for each 10 metal connectors. The manufacturer will specify the size of nail for their product. Allow one bolt per foot of ledger, be sure to measure the length necessary to "run" the bolt through the wall framing and install a nut and washer on the other side. Materials Needed Your design from previous tutorial Blank paper for lists Tools Needed Calculator Span tables Material selection information

21 Deck Marking & Layout OVERVIEW Introduction Marking and layout is the third step in building your deck. The layout is possibly the most important step after you have made the decision to proceed. The placement of the footings is critical to the location of the support posts, which will ultimately make your deck a safe and enjoyable place to enjoy the outdoors, and keep it from falling down! Even though there is room for error in measuring the location of the footings, success comes from striving for accuracy-- measure to the 1/8th of an inch. This layout is simple and can easily be completed by any level of DIYer. Mistakes can be corrected at a later part of the project if necessary. These mistakes however, will add time and money to your deck project if left uncorrected. To set up for this task, gather your drawings, tape measure, marking tools, level, all of your equipment, and put them on a site worktable for easy reference and a place to find them. A paperweight of tools and other heavy objects will keep the plans in place if the wind begins to blow. Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10'x 30' deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 3 hours Intermediate - 2 hours Advanced - 1 hours Check for hidden utility lines before you start. Check local code restrictions to be sure that you comply with their regulations on deck height off the ground and limitations on the amount of lot coverage allowed. Rushing the layout can cause the deck to be built out of "square" which will make the final placement of deck boards and hand railings extremely difficult at the end of the project. A helper who understands the overall design and layout process will be invaluable in holding the dummy end of the tape and helping to line up marking strings.

22 STEPS 1. Your first measurements and marking indicate where your deck connects to the house. After the height of the deck is marked, move away from the house to locate the remaining deck supports. Your measurements should take into account that the deck is an outdoor extension of your indoor living space, and needs to slope away from the house to allow any water that collects on the deck to drain away from the house and the foundation of your home. 2. Begin by marking the top of the ledger, the structural deck support that will attach to your house, in several locations. Use your level to verify that the top of the ledger matches your structural drawing. Keep in mind that if your finished deck surface is 2x material, the top of the ledger will be 1½" below the finished height of the deck as most 2x decking material is actually 1½". Repeat this step on all walls that join the deck. Note: The drainage slope on the deck will show on any adjacent deck wall markings. 3. Now we will mark the outside perimeter of the deck foundation where the deck will be supported from the ground as indicated on your construction drawing. To establish this line, take two equal measurements, in separate locations, from the longest parallel house wall as shown, and mark the location with the nylon line. These measurements should indicate the centerline of the post base. The string line(s) should be directly over the center of the post base. Be sure that you keep the measurements parallel to each other and perpendicular (square) to the wall. 4. The string line can be attached at the ledger location with a nail or screw at one end and tied around a stake driven into the ground at the other end. Be sure to drive the stake "outside" the deck perimeter so it can stay in place until the support posts are set. Be sure to keep the string line above the top of the ledger height if possible so the footings can be dug, the concrete can be poured, and the vertical support posts can be placed, without moving them.

23 5. Measure the distance from any adjacent walls to locate adjacent sides of the deck (post base) and mark with nylon line the same way as in step 2. Remember to keep the measurements parallel. 6. Layout any interior post bases using the same technique as the perimeter using two equal measurements and marking them with a string line. 7. The grid formed by the nylon line should be the same as the grid on your plans showing the structural members (girders) which will in turn support the joists, which support the finished deck boards. The intersection of the string lines indicates the center of the post bases. 8. Be sure to check your layout for square using the right triangle method. Or you can check for square by measuring from opposite corners and comparing the dimensions, they should be equal: within 3/8 inch will be acceptable on this project In the next tutorial we will be pouring concrete in the post bases and attaching the ledger board to the house. SHOP LIST Materials Needed 24" to 30" stakes. (Use 1x2 wood or metal stakes) Two stakes per corner 16d nails Tools Needed 25' tape measure Carpenters pencil or a permanent marker

24 100' "reel" tape, or longer if the diagonal measurement is greater than 100' 500' of nylon line (this "string" comes in highly visible colors and is good for laying out piers and footings for any construction project) Hammer Water level, string level or some other tool to find level.

25 Installing the Deck Ledger OVERVIEW Introduction It attaches the deck to your house and it is also provides the reference point for laying out the deck for construction. Because of its importance, the ledger must be correctly positioned and fastened very securely to the house. Pressure-treated lumber is the preferred material for the ledger. It is very sturdy and resists rot and pests. It should be secured directly to a header joist or to a masonry foundation for maximum strength. For installation into a header joist, you will use lag bolts. Masonry installation requires anchors that expand as the lag bolts are screwed in. Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10 x 30 deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 4 to 5 hours Intermediate - 3 to 4 hours Advanced - 2 to 3 hours Install the ledger at least 1" below any doors that will open out onto the new deck. This will help prevent water, ice and snow from building up and leaking under the bottom door seal. When marking the height for cutting the siding to fit the ledger, remember that 2" x 6" lumber is typically only 5-1/2" wide. STEPS

26 1. Reference your deck plans to determine the exact location and size of the ledger board. You need to cut out the siding on your house where the ledger will be installed. On the side of the house, use a level and mark the siding to match the size of the ledger. The length of the cut out area will actually be longer than the ledger to allow room for the outside joists and any decorative trim you plan to install. 2. Set the depth of your circular saw to the exact thickness of your siding. You only want to remove the siding and leave the sheathing underneath intact. Cut around the marked area with the saw. 3. There are probably some areas, such as corners, that you could not get to with the circular saw. Use a chisel with the flat side facing the finished edge and cut loose any remaining areas. 4. Measure the length of the cutout area for the metal drip edge. It will need to span the entire length of the opening. Cut the metal drip edge using tin snips. Slip it under the siding. It should stay wedged in position for now. 5. Measure the length needed for the ledger. It will be shorter than the cutout. Mark the ledger lumber and squarely cut it to length. Put the ledger in position in the cut out area. Make sure you center it in the cutout area, leaving room (about 1-1/2 inches) for the outside joists and trim on each side. Tack the ledger in place with a few nails or screws and a screw gun.

27 6. About 1-1/2" from the top and bottom edges, drill pilot holes. Make each set of pilot holes about 2 feet apart from each other. Then, using a 1" paddle bit, retrace your steps and drill 1/2" deep holes to countersink the washers and heads of the lag bolts. 7. Using a socket wrench, screw in lag bolts with washers in each of the holes. The lag bolts should be about 4" long so that they go through the ledger, the sheathing and into the header joist. 8. Now that the ledger is securely in place, take silicone caulk and fill in the holes with the lag bolts. Then run a bead of caulk along the seam between the siding and drip edge above the ledger. Materials Needed Pressure-treated 2" x 6" lumber Lag bolts Washers Silicone caulk 16d nails Drip edge Tools Needed 4-foot level Circular saw Hammer Chisel Tin snips Socket set Hammer Drill Drill bits SHOP LIST

28 Installing Deck Joists OVERVIEW Introduction Joists provide the framing platform for the deck boards. Before you can install the joists, the ledger should be in place along the house and the grider(s) should be secured to the posts. The joists will be anchored to the house via the ledger and then supported by the girders. Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10 x 30 deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 2 to 3 days Intermediate - 1 to 2 days Advanced - about 1 day STEPS 1. Cut the two outside joists to length. Take the first joist and position it next to the end of the ledger. Screw it in place with a screw gun. Position the opposite end of the joist on top of and flush with the end of the beam. Screw it in place by angling a screw through the edge of the joist and into the beam. Repeat for the other outside joists that attach to the house.

29 2. Measure and cut the header joist. Position it across the ends of the outside joists and screw it into the ends of the outside joists. 3. To add support to each of the 4 corners of the deck, screw in angle brackets in each inside corner. You can now remove the braces that were holding the posts in position. Your deck frame should now be locked in position. 4. On the ledger, on top of the girders and on the inside of the header joist, mark the locations for the joists. They should be 16" on center. You need 2 marks to indicate either side of each joist. This translates to 14-1/2" in between each joist and 1-1/2" for the thickness of each joist. Then use a square to scribe the lines across the face of the board. Take a short piece of joist material, butt it up along the line and scribe the other line for positioning each joist. Put an X in between the lines to indicate the location of the joist. 5. Position a joist hanger along one of the scribed line. Screw or nail 1 side of it in place through its flange. 6. Take the short piece of joist material and put it in place in the open joist hanger.

30 7. Flex the joist hanger up tight against the board. Make sure the top of the board is flush with the ledger of header joist. Nail the other side of the joist hanger in place. Repeat the last 2 steps until all the joist hangers are in place. 8. Measure and cut each joist to length using a circular saw. Use a square to mark each board to ensure a square cut edge. View down the end of each joist to determine which side has a crown. Lay each joist in place with the crown side up. 9. Screw or nail the ends on each joist to the joist hanger. 10. Where each joist crosses the beam, screw or toe-nail the joist to the beam. The deck frame is now complete. It is time to proceed with decking and railings. Materials Needed Lumber for joists Joist hangers Screws Tools Needed Miter saw Circular saw Pry bar Square SHOP LIST

31 Level Screw gun Reciprocating saw Tape measure

32 Installing Deck Posts & Beams OVERVIEW Introduction Before you begin framing your deck, you should have the ledger installed along the house and the concrete pads poured. These create the various supporting elements for your deck. Next to the house, the deck joists will be attached directly to the ledger. Meanwhile, the concrete pads hold up the posts, which support the girders (or beams) that the support the deck joists opposite of the ledger. Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10'x 30' deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 2 to 3 days Intermediate - 1 to 2 days Advanced - about 1 day STEPS 1. Refer to your deck plans and determine the height of each post. Add at least 6" to the length of each and mark the appropriate dimension on each post. Cut the posts at the marks using a miter saw or circular saw.

33 2. Place the posts in the piers on top of the appropriate concrete pad. Using pieces of 1" or 2" thick wood, put 2 braces on each post at 90 degrees from each other. Drive a stake into the ground and screw the tail of the brace to the stake. Then use a level to make sure the post is perfectly plumb and screw the two braces to each post. Make sure the braces are below the area where you will be installing the deck beam. 3. Screw each post to its pier using a screw gun. 4. With the posts now in position, you need to determine the position of the top of the joists on each post. To do this, take a long straight 2" x 4" and rest it on the top of the ledger. Place a level on top of the 2" x 4". Hold the board level and then lower the board ½" for every 6' of distance between the ledger and the post. This is to provide a slight slope for water runoff away from the house. Mark the post at the bottom of the 2" x 4"board. 5. From the mark on each post, measure down the height of a joist and the height of the beam. Then use a square to mark all 4 sides of the post. This will be your cut line. 6. Cut each post to its marked height. Use a reciprocating saw and cut squarely across the lower mark on each post.

34 7. Install the post cap brackets on top of each post. Use the appropriates screw or lag bolts to securely anchor the brackets in place. 8. Measure and cut to length girders to length. Eyeball each girder to determine which way it crowns. Place each girder in position on top of the posts with the crown of the girder directed upwards. Screw the girders into place through the post cap brackets with screws and a screw gun. Materials Needed 4" x 4" Posts 4" x 6" Girders Brace boards Wood stakes Post cap brackets Angle brackets Lag bolts Washers Screws Silicone caulk Tools Needed Miter saw Circular saw Square Level Screw gun Plumb bob Reciprocating Saw Tape measure SHOP LIST

35 Installing Deck Boards OVERVIEW Introduction Now that the deck frame and joists are in place, you can install the decking, or floor, of your deck. You have a variety of materials to choose from - pressure-treated wood, redwood, cedar or even artificial wood. Your choice will be based on your preference for aesthetics versus ease of maintenance. Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10 x 30 deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 2 to 3 days Intermediate - 1 to 2 days Advanced - about 1 day Install decking boards with the bark side up. Boards can "cup" away from the bark side. This will enable the water to run off the boards. Decking boards should be about 1/8" apart to allow for the boards to swell and shrink. This also allows for water drainage through the deck. Make sure that butt joints in the decking do not occur on the same joist for 2 consecutive rows. Make sure they are staggered for both aesthetic and structural reasons. STEPS

36 1. When installing the decking boards, you can use screws or galvanized nails. Use 2 screws or nails where a decking board and joist intersect. For both nails and screws, pre-drill the ends of the boards to avoid splitting. 2. The first piece of decking should be the straightest board in the stack. It will go right up against the house. Cut it to length and slide it up against the house. Nail it or screw it in place. 3. Lay each row of decking in place and nail or screw it to the joists. Maintain a consistent 1/8" gap in between row. For boards around the edges of the deck, allow the boards to fly a few inches past the deck. Later you will cut them all at once when they are all installed. 4. If a board is warped, screw it in place at one end, 1/8" away from the previous row. Move to the next joist. If the gap is less than 1/8", use a pry bar in between the new board and the last row to spread the boards apart. If the gap is greater than 1/8", have a helper grab the free end of the board and push it into the correct position. Screw the board in place. 5. Every few rows, measure the distance remaining on both edges of the deck. Make sure the distance is the same. If one dimension is longer, you can get the rows of decking parallel to the end of the deck by spreading the gap at one end over the next row or two.

37 6. When you are about 4 to 6 feet from the end of the deck, check the remaining distances. Divide this distance by the width of the decking boards plus 1/8". You want to end the decking with a full width board if possible. Over the last 10 or so rows, you can slightly spread or shrink the 1/8" for a perfect fit. 7. Once all the deck boards are installed, you can cut off the ends that extended over the edge of the deck. Snap a chalk line and use a circular saw to cut all the boards in one step. Where the circular saw can't reach, use a hand saw in corners or next to your house. Materials Needed Decking Boards Screws Silicone Caulk Tools Needed Circular Saw Hammer Pry Bar Square Screw gun Drill bits Tape measure SHOP LIST

38 Installing Deck Stairs OVERVIEW Introduction Most likely you have planned one or two flights of stairs from your deck to the surrounding yard. Steps can be built a number of different ways depending on your aesthetic preference, however most municipalities have specific codes that must be taken into consideration when you design and build your steps. For instance, many cities require a minimum width of 3 feet for the stairs. From a design standpoint, your stairs can have notched stringers or solid stringers. You can have deep tread runs of 16" or a more standard run of 11". At the foot of the stairs, you can use posts on concrete pads like the rest of the deck or build a solid base of concrete or stones. Design stairs that suit your style. To understand this tutorial, note the main illustration and the following terms: Vertical rise - distance between 2 steps. Usually 6" to 7" Run - depth of each tread. Can range from 11" to 16" Vertical drop - height of stairs from the ground to the deck surface Span - distance the stairs cover from the deck to the foot of the stairs Time to complete this project depends on the size of the deck and the level of help available, the times listed here are for two people on a 10 x 30 deck with the house defining two sides of the deck. Beginner - 4 to 6 hours Intermediate - 3 to 5 hours Advanced - 2 to 4 hours Check with your local building department to get the deck railing requirements for your area. STEPS

39 1. On the side of your deck, mark the location that the two stair stringers will attach. They should be at least 36" apart. 2. Measure the vertical drop from the deck surface to the ground. Divide this number by 7 to determine the number of steps. For instance, if the deck is 33" off the ground, you need 4.7 steps. Since you can't have 4.7 steps, round it to 5 steps. Now divide 33" by 5 steps. You get 6-1/2". This will be the vertical rise of your steps. 3. Determine the run you prefer. Using two 2x6's is a good choice. That means your step treads will be 11-1/4" deep. So your run is 11-1/4". Multiply 5 (steps) times the run (11-1/4"), you get 56-1/4". This is the span of your stairs. 4. Now it is time to mark the post locations. Using a 2x4 and a square, lay the 2x4 on the deck about 2" on the outside of one of the stringer marks. Measure out the distance of your span calculation minus 18". Drop a plumb bob and mark the ground. Follow the same procedure for the other stringer mark. 5. At the marks on the ground, dig round postholes and pour concrete footings. Attach the post piers and posts as described in the Digging Deck Post Holes tutorial.

40 6. Take 2x12 boards and a square to mark out your stringers. If the deck surface overhangs the frame of the deck, factor that into the top step. The other steps should be 10-1/4" to allow a 1" overhang on each step. The rise measurement in this example is 6-1/2" as calculated above. 7. Use a circular saw to cut the stringers. Since a circular saw can't get all the way into the corners, use a hand saw to finish each cut. 8. Attach each stringer to the deck frame using an angle bracket. Use lag bolts and washers to secure the foot of the stringers to the support posts. 9. To build the stair treads, cut 2x6 boards to span the stringers. If you factor in a 1" overhang on each side, cut the boards to 38" per this example. Allow ¼" gap in between the two boards on each tread. Screw the boards into place with two screws per board per stringer. 10. As an alternative to the stringers used in the above example, you can use solid stringers with angle brackets to support each tread. With solid stringers, the first step tread is one step below deck level. That means you will have 1 fewer tread in your flight of stairs. In step 2, subtract 1 from your step calculation (5-1=4 in the example above). SHOP LIST