Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Everything you ever wanted to know & more!

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1 Extra Virgin Olive Oil: Everything you ever wanted to know & more! History: What is Extra Virgin Olive Oil? Extra Virgin Olive Oil is the oil extracted from fresh olives using a mechanical process without the use of excessive heat, additives or solvents. Olive trees are native to the Mediterranean, Southern Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. People have been mechanically crushing olives from these trees to obtain oil for millennia. In the past olive oil has been used for food, skin care, fuel, light and as a mechanical lubricant. It was considered a vital and precious commodity and was produced in many different grades or quality levels. As today, fresh, high quality olive oil commanded a premium price. In many respects, the Extra Virgin Olive Oil that we have today is a direct descendant of the oil that was produced 2,000 years ago. However, with the introduction of modern technology into the processes of farming and pressing olive oils we are reaching a crucial point in the history of Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Region/Origin: Olive trees are native to the Mediterranean, but can be grown successfully in any temperate climate. Currently, Spain is the largest producer of olive oil in the world with 43% of the world s harvest. Italy produces 21.5% (but imports more olive oil than it produces), Greece produces 12% and Syria 6%. Most of this oil production is bulk virgin olive oil for frying, restaurants and other general consumption. 100 Year Oil Arbequina Olive Tree in Catalonia, Spain Recently, California and Australia have been greatly increasing production due to advanced agricultural techniques and modern industrial equipment. Their main production is concentrated on extra virgin olive oil rather than virgin oils. Types/Classifications: There are 3 main types of olive oil; Virgin Oils, Refined Oils and Pomace Oil. This is a constant source of confusion for many customers due to unclear and/ or intentionally confusing labeling and confusing regulatory standards and definitions that have introduced many sub categories and names onto the labels. The international quality standards set for olive oil were created by the International Olive Council, based in Madrid, Spain. These are the definitions that are explained here. 1

2 Virgin Olive Oil Virgin oil is a large umbrella category that includes Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Virgin Olive Oil and Lampante. This is oil that was produced using only mechanical means and not chemically treated in any way that would lead to a change in the physical composition of the oil. Extra Virgin Olive Oil The top grade of Virgin Oils. Extra Virgin Olive Oil is oil that has been produced solely by mechanical means without the aid of heat, chemicals or additives. Extra Virgin Olive Oil must have a free acidity level of below 0.8% and be free of all taste defects, the three primary defects are fusty, musty, and rancid. It is important to note that by law, all Extra Virgin Olive Oil must be first cold press. Virgin Olive Oil This is oil that has been pressed by mechanical means, but heat may have been added to aid processing. It should have a free acidity level of below 2% and may contain flavor and quality defects. The majority of olive oil is virgin oil. This is the predominant oil found in stores, for sale and for consumption. Lampante Also called lamp oil. This is oil that is considered not fit for human consumption by the IOC. It may have up to 3.3% free acidity. This is not generally sold in stores and is used in industry as a lubricant. It is the worst grade of Virgin Oils. Refined Olive Oils Refined olive oils are virgin oils that have undergone a chemical treatment to clean/ strip inferior oil of any chemical defects. Refined oil is colorless, aroma-less and flavorless. It generally has a long shelf life and is referred to as light or pure. It should have a free acidity level of 0.3%. Pomace Oil Pomace oil is the oil obtained by treating the waste product of first press oil with solvents to release any remaining oil. This resulting oil can be sold by itself or blended. This oil is generally turned into refined oil or intended for mechanical/ technical uses. Do not buy this oil for home consumption, it is a waste product of the production of Virgin Oils and needs further processing to be considered acceptable for consumption. A note on free acidity levels: FFA or free fatty acidity levels are only a very broad indicator of quality. They can give a basic idea of how fresh and healthy the olives were at the time of processing. Levels are affected by the different olive varieties and give no indication of actual flavor properties. Most very high grade Extra Virgin Olive Oils are around 0.2% free acidity. Also acidity refers to the chemical structure of the material being tested. It does not affect the flavor or cause the oil to taste like vinegar. A note on cold press and first cold press olive oils: It is very common to see these terms used on oil labels and there is a lot of confusion among customers as to what they really mean. In the EU cold press means that the olives were crushed and malaxed at a temperatures lower than 80. This ensures that the health and flavor properties of the oil are intact after processing. For oils produced outside of the EU, there are no official standards for production so there is no guarantee that this claim is true. Producers could choose to apply heat to either to speed up the process or to make pressing easier, sacrificing quality for convenience. Although, the terms cold press and first cold press have been both misused (most oils now are produced with a centrifuge, not a press) and overused (all first pressings are cold pressings, so this is really a redundant phrase), they do indicate that the oil is Extra Virgin. They do not, however, indicate that it s a premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil. 2

3 Olive Oil Production: Olive oil production has been mechanized since biblical times, however it is only in the past years that the industry has seen vast improvements in the technology and machinery of the olive harvest and press. In ancient times, after the olives were harvested either by shaking the trees Old fashioned stone presses, like this to bring the fruit down, or by collecting olives after they had fallen to the one, are no longer in use today. ground, they were taken to large stone presses where they were first crushed and then ground into a paste. This process can take minutes and exposes the olive paste to oxidation and heat created by friction. After crushing, the paste was spread on large mats that were stacked on top of each other and sent to the press. Pressure is applied to the stacked mats and the liquid and oil are forced from the paste. Traditionally gravity was used to separate the olive oil from the water/ olive liquid during a decantation phase. This type of process results in an oil with many flaws and defects. Primarily due to exposure to oxygen during the processing which hastens the decay of the oil. These old fashioned presses are difficult to clean completely of rancid oil and the mats used for pressing tend to rot over time passing on flavor defects to the fresh olive oil. Modern production is very different. After the olives are collected via either large combine harvesters, or mechanically shaking the trees to bring the fruit down, the olives are taken to the mill. They are first ground into a paste using large steel blades that can either crush or slice the fruit. Then the pastes is continually stirred and mixed for minutes during a process called malaxation that helps the oil droplets cling together. Finally, Modern olive crusher the paste is spun though a large centrifuge that separates the oil, water and solids. The oil may be filtered at this point to reduce sediment, but that is not necessary. The oil is generally left for 1-2 months in order to settle before bottling. While modern technology offers many advances from ancient methods, there is still a lot of room for improvement from large scale industrial processing. Firstly, Malaxer used to mix olive paste. the olives can be harvested in any state of ripeness and are often sent to the mill with debris and other contaminates. Modern centrifuge extractor. Paper olive oil filter. Sediment remaining after filtration. 3

4 At the mill, they can sit for days or weeks, rotting in the sunlight before being pressed. At many mills, there are many more olives than it is possible to process during harvest time. Industrial harvesting methods are far more efficient than processing, so there will inevitably be a delay where olive wait for the press after being harvest. There is also an added incentive to let the olives ripen on the trees, this results in a lower grade oil, but a much higher yield. Finally, the olives can be exposed to oxygen throughout the process, destroying the freshness and flavor of the oil. For high quality extra virgin olive oil production, most of the same technology is used, however, much more attention to detail is paid during every step of the process. For the best oils, harvesting can only take place for three weeks out of the year when the olives are slightly underripe. Olives, like oranges and other fruit, bruise easily and must be gently harvested to avoid damage to the fruit. They should also be taken directly to the press and should not sit in the sunlight or exposed for any period of time. Many producers of superior quality oil send their olives to the press with 3-6 hours of harvesting. All olives are pressed the same day they are picked from the trees. No olives are collected from the ground. At the press, the olives and the olive paste are kept in vacuum conditions and every effort is made to prevent oxygen from contaminating the oil. Other ways that the production of superior Extra Virgin Olive Oil can differ from general industrial production include: the olives can be sliced instead of crushed which helps to reduce oxidation and flavor defects, vertical disc mixers can be used during malaxation to reduce the surface area of paste exposed to oxygen, and freshly pressed oil can be stored in nitrogen flush tanks until bottling. Gerard & Avelino Vea with their tanks of 2013 harvest EVOO. Flavor Profile: What should you expect when you open up a bottle of premium Extra Virgin Olive Oil? Well, the answer is maybe both simpler and more complicated than you think. The reality is that no one has yet discovered a way to test olive oil for quality that is easier and more effective than a simple taste test At its most basic level, there are three main desirable traits to look for in olive oil: Fruitiness, Peppery-ness and Pungency. Fruity refers to the taste or aroma of fresh olives. Peppery refers to the strong tingle in the back of the throat caused by fresh olive oils. This is considered very desirable and is strongly correlated with health properties. Bitterness is one of the most sensitive and difficult flavors for people to understand. Is it linked to the presence of antioxidants in olive oil. It is also a culinary benefit, in that bitterness actually interacts with other foods and accentuates the sweetness of flavors. For example, although it is very strong on its own, Tuscan Extra Virgin Olive Oil when drizzled over a well cooked steak brings out the sweetness of the meat. When used on an arugula salad, instead of tasting bitter greens you will taste the vegetal flavor of the greens and the fruity pepper of the olive oil. 4

5 Great Extra Virgin Olive Oils, like wines, can have a chorus of flavors that blend harmoniously together. There are many identifiable flavor notes but popular ones include, green tomato, artichoke, almond, and grass. There is an olive oil tasting wheel, that is included here, as well as a glossary of flavor notes to help people identify flavors. There are also many officially recognized defects or off-flavors, the most common of which are fusty, musty/ humidity, and rancidity. Other flavors can include: muddy/ sediment, winey/vinegary, metallic, burnt, hay/wood, rough, greasy, vegetable water, brine, esparto, earthy, grubby and cucumber. These flaws indicate the poor quality of the oil and can be the result of unhealthy or unripe olives, poor milling techniques, improper storage or a breakdown in the production/ storage/ packaging chain. Similarly to when we describe wine, olive oil has many different descriptors and people can quickly become overwhelmed. The most important thing to remember is this: trust your palate. Extra Virgin Olive Oils are meant to be pleasurable. If the customer likes the flavor of the oil, it is the right choice for them. You cannot argue with people s preferences, we can encourage them to try new things and to expand their knowledge base, but not everyone will agree. The best way to do this it to have a smart, curated selection of product that offers a wide variety of flavor profiles and culinary applications and a well trained sales staff that can offer thoughtful suggestions. Culinary Applications: Olive oil is a delicious, healthy fat that is an essential part of the Mediterranean diet. It can be used to sauté, fry or poach foods. It can be used as a dressing on its own or mixed with lemon or vinegar. It can also be used to finish cooked dishes to add flavor or improve the texture. It is fantastic added to soups, pastas, or vegetables as a seasoning or drizzle on cooked meats for a juicer, more flavorful steak, pork chop or chicken breast. Storage & Shelf Life: Olive oil should be stored at room temperature away from direct sunlight. It should not be exposed to direct sources of heat and should be kept in either a dark glass jar or a tin to shield it from light. Rancid oil can turn yellow, orange and even red. Stay away if that happens. Olive oil has a two year shelf life from pressing. However, once opened it only maintains its freshness and flavor for 6 months. Afterwards, it will not be bad but will no longer be at its best; it will lose the clarity and brilliance of its original flavor and aroma. Please note that although olive oil only has a two year shelf life, by law, producers only have to put a bottling date on the container. Please check thoroughly for a harvest date and avoid buying oil with only a bottling date. This oil could have been sitting around in a warehouse for years before bottling! How to Taste Extra Virgin Olive Oil: When tasting olive oil, try the olive oil without bread or any other type of food as this may hide defects in inferior quality oils. Extra Virgin Olive Oil should not taste greasy or unpleasant, please see the included flavor wheel with taste profiles. Using the flavor wheel, allows people to verbalize their opinions and interact with the product. Try to taste more than one oil at a time so people can compare the flavors and offer their opinions. Tasting should be 5

6 done in small plastic cups starting with the lightest intensity oil and progressing through to the most intense. The most similar comparison is to a wine tasting. Experts will use green apple as a palate cleanser between oils, but bread can also be offered after the oil has been tasted on its own. How to conduct an olive oil tasting: Choose a neutral, odor-free environment and use a small clear glass to detect the fragrances and flavors of the oil. First, hold the oil in front of you towards the light. Gently swirl the oil around the glass and admire its beautiful color. Notice whether or not it is clear or cloudy. Cloudy signifies that the oil is left unfiltered. You will notice that different oils produced from different olives vary tremendously in color from golden to emerald green. Oils also vary visibly in body. Observe the heaviness or lightness of the oil. Is it heavy and thick or is it light and liquid? Second, inhale the aroma of the oil gently through your nose. See which scents come to mind. Apple, almonds, artichokes, grass, pepper, etc are scents that occur in various oils. Third, take a small sip of oil and do not swallow immediately. Once the oil is on your palate, suck in a little air as you would do with wine, and discover its flavors. Well crafted oils should have a beginning, middle and end like a good story. Focus on the nuance of flavors and the way they hit your tongue at different times. You can also use a flavor wheel to stimulate thought and conversation amongst participants and tasters! Or pass out the attached glossary of terms and ask people to identify flavors and textures in the oil. Frequently Asked Questions: My bottle says First Cold Press, that means it s the best quality, right? Not necessarily By law all Extra Virgin Olive Oil is first cold press, so this is kind of a meaningless designation at this point. The most important thing to look for with olive oil is freshness. If your bottle doesn t have a harvest date, it is best to avoid it. Almost all oil produced today is done with a centrifuge, first cold press is a really a relic of the old traditions. What does Region/ Country of Origin have to do with my olive oil? Basically, this question is link with olive varietals, while climate can have a lot to do with the flavor of the olive varietal, many regions are strongly associated with particular olive varietals and flavors. The most common are listed here with varietals and basic flavor profiles: Tuscan: Varietals: Frantoio, Leccino, Moriaolo (but can be more) Very strong, pungent, grassy flavor. Quite bitter on its own. Liguria: Varietal: Taggiasca Sweet, smooth, nutty oil that finishes cleanly on the tongue. Sicilian: Varietals: Nocellara, Biancollila, Carolea Green tomato, grassy and herbal. Provence, France: Varietals: Picholine, Beruguette, Saloneque, - DOP Provence oil must be a blend buttery, smooth and grassy with only a hint of bitterness. Lighter than most oils. 6

7 Northern Spain: Varietal: Arbequina Sweet, smooth and nutty with a hint of almonds. Arbequina olive are native to this region of Spain. Southern Spain: Varietals: Arbequina & Picual Picual is very pungent and strong, so it is usually blended with milder Arbequinas for a rounded flavor. Oils are grassy and herbal. Greece: Varietals: Koroneiki & Kalamata Grassy with hints of citrus. These oils are usually not as pungent, probably due to older olive pressing technology. What Is A Varietal? The type of olive(s) used to create olive oil is referred to as the olive varietal. Common varietals include Arbequina, Picual, Frantoio, and Nocellara. There is no quality difference between a well made mono varietal oil and a well made blend, only a difference in flavor profile. What Is A Release Date And A Harvest Date? Where Can I Find It On The Bottle? A harvest date is what signifies when the oil was harvested. Most Extra Virgin Olive Oil is picked late in the year then released early the following year. For example: Harvest 2012/ Release This helps to guarantee freshness. There might also be a best before date which is usually two years later than the harvest date. Does the color of the oil indicate the quality? In short, no. Although many people are attracted to green olive oils, the color has no bearing on the flavor of the oil. Color is the result of a combination of factors, including olive varietal, and degree of ripeness during harvest. Color can also be faked. Some less scrupulous producers can put chlorophyll into the press with the olives or afterwards which will color the oil green but not add or change the flavor. When professional tasters test olive oils they use blue colored glasses so they are not biased by the oil s color. How Do I Store Olive Oil? Avoid direct light, heat, excessive cold or contact with oxygen. Ideally, it should be stored in a cool, dark place. Careful handling of the way you store olive oil will help you maintain its aroma and taste. Remember not to pour oil back into the bottle. Properly stored, olive oil can keep for at least two years in an unopened container. Olive oil should not be stored in the refrigerator. If chilled, it will become cloudy and eventually solidify or crystallize. If this happens, the oil is still fine. Simply leave it at room temperature in order to restore it to its natural state. How Long Does Olive Oil Stay Good For? Extra Virgin Olive Oil is best for 2 years after it is released. Harvesting frequently takes place between October and January of each year in the Northern Hemisphere and May through July in the Southern Hemisphere. A bottle of olive oil should be used once it is opened as oxidization will gradually cause its flavor to dissipate, loosing freshness. Oil is a fresh product and does not benefit from aging. Extra Virgin Olive Oil does not go bad at some magic date and is good for a lot longer than 2 years if kept in dark and somewhat cool area. After 2 years, however, some of its major characteristics might begin to fade a bit and the freshness might not be as good. Use older oils for cooking and they are fine. 7

8 What Are Polyphenols? A beneficial antioxidant found in EVOO that helps reduce neurodegenerative diseases and some cardiovascular diseases. Polyphenols can only be obtained through the food that we eat. The peppery burn that you experience at the back of your throat after tasting many olive oils is a result of high polyphenol content. It is also a sign of freshness. Specific types of olives, such as the Tuscan varieties (Frantoio, Coratina, Lucca, Pendolino), have higher polyphenol values. Piqual has the highest polyphenol content of all olives. Cooking and heating EVOO may damage the health properties of the oil. Does light olive oil have fewer calories than Extra Virgin Olive Oil? Absolutely not! Light olive oil only means that it has been further processed to remove, flavor, color and odor. Chemically speaking, it has the exact same fat content as any other olive oil just no flavor and no texture! My olive oil is cloudy! What happened?! One of two things can be happening here Olive oil, like any fat will congeal when it gets cold. If you keep your olive oil in a very cold room/ grocery store it will harden. It will also harden if kept in the refrigerator. For that reason it s best kept in a cool/ room temperature, dark place. The other possibility is that there was left over sediment from the pressing that has precipitated towards the bottom of the container. This residue is not harmful and within reason won t affect the flavor of the oil. Many people prefer unfiltered oils for their stronger flavor. Please note though that unfiltered oils do spoil faster. Olive Oil Education and Information provided by: De Medici Imports 1 Atalanta Plaza Elizabeth, NJ

9 Glossary of Tasting Notes/ Terms: The International Olive Council (IOC) has developed a system for the objective organoleptic (tasting) assessment of olive oil in order to determine an oil s quality and commercial trade value. This assessment method is based on panels of trained tasters recognizing the absence and/or presence of specific positive and negative (defective) attributes. While the IOC assessment offers an objective method to determine if an oil has defective flavors or not, this method does not allow for descriptions of flavors because descriptive language is subjective. We offer the following terms, with positives in green and negatives in red, to help guide you through your own tasting experiences. Green refers to desirable traits; Red to undesirable. Apple/Green Apple: indicative of certain olive varietals Almond: nutty (fresh not oxidized) Artichoke: green flavor Astringent: puckering sensation in mouth created by tannins; often associated with bitter, robust oils Banana: ripe and unripe banana fruit Bitter: considered a positive attribute because it is indicative of fresh olive fruit Buttery: creamy, smooth sensation on palate Eucalyptus: aroma of specific olive varietals Floral: perfume/aroma of flowers Forest: fresh aroma reminiscent of forest floor, NOT dirty Fresh: good aroma, fruity, not oxidixed Fruity: refers to the aroma of fresh olive fruit, which is perceived through the nostrils and retro-nasally when the oil is in one s mouth. Grass: the aroma of fresh-cut (mowed) grass Green/Greenly: aroma/flavor of unripe olives Green Tea: characteristic of some unripe olive varieties Acetone: aroma of nail polish remover, associated with winey defect Blue Cheese: aroma associated with muddy sediment defect Brine: salty taste indicating that oil was made from brined olives Bacon: smoky essence that may indicate oxidation Burnt/Heated: caused by processing at too high a temperature Cucumber: off flavor from prolonged storage, particularly in tin Dirty: oils which have absorbed unpleasant odors and flavors of dirty waste water during milling Dreggish: odor of warm lubricating oil caused by the poor execution of the decanting process Esparto: refers to straw-like material in mats occasionally used in older mills that may create a hemp-like flavor in oil Fiscolo: refers to coconut fibers in mats occasionally used in older mills that may create a hemp-like flavor in oil Flat/Bland: oils which have no positive or negative aroma or flavor characteristic of olive oil; may indicate presence of refined olive oil Frozen/Wet Wood: sweet, dry, and untypical aroma/flavor derived from olives which have been exposed to freezing 9

10 Harmonious: balance among the oil s characteristics with none overpowering the others Hay/Straw: dried grass flavor Herbaceous: unripe olive fruit reminiscent of fresh green herbs Melon: indicative of certain olive varietals Mint: indicative of certain olive varietals Pear: indicative of certain olive varietals Peach: indicative of certain olive varietals Peppery: stinging sensation in the throat which can force a cough (see pungent) Pungent: stinging sensation in the throat which can force a cough (see peppery) Ripely: aroma/flavor of ripe olive fruit Round/Rotund: a balanced, mouth-filling sensation of harmonious flavors Spice: aroma/flavor of seasonings such as cinnamon, allspice (but not herbs or pepper) Sweet: characteristic of mild oils Tomato/Tomato Leaf: indicative of certain olive varietals Tropical: indicative of ripe olive fruit with nuances of melon, mango, and coconut Walnut/Walnut Shell: nutty (fresh not oxidized) Wheatgrass: strong flavor of some green olive fruit Woody: indicative of olive varietals with large pits temperatures Fusty: anaerobic fermentation that occurs when olives are stored in piles too long before milling Greasy: flavor of diesel or gasoline caused by equipment problems Grubby: flavor imparted to oil by olive fly damage to olives Hay-wood: flavor of dried olives Muddy Sediment:barnyard-like aroma caused by olives' prolonged contact with dirt before or after milling Musty: moldy, humid flavor created by wet olives that have been stored too long before pressing Metallic: oils that have had prolonged contact with reactive metal surfaces either during processing or storage Rancid: the flavor of oxidation that occurs as the oil ages, often described as stale nuts Rough: pasty, thick, greasy mouth feel Sour Milk: aroma associated with muddy sediment defect Stale Nuts: flavor of oxidized oils, rancidity Unbalanced: oils with overwhelming flavors of bitterness and pungency Vegetable Water: oils that have been stored in contact with the water content of the olive after processing Winey: sour/vinegary flavor caused by aerobic fermentation of olives during processing (see vinegary) Vinegary: sour/vinegary flavor caused by aerobic fermentation of olives during processing. (see winey) Yeasty: aroma of bread dough; associated with winey defect 10