Rodeo Baby. A 48" x 66" baby quilt in two color versions by Shelly Pagliai
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1 Rodeo Baby A 48" x 66" baby quilt in two color versions by Shelly Pagliai This darling baby quilt uses pieces from the Rodeo Rider fabric line by Samantha Walker for Riley Blake Designs. I chose some of the prints for a girl version, and different ones for a boy version, all from the same line! There were still others I didn t even use, so this is a very versatile collection. The pieced block in this quilt is a greatly enlarged version of a traditional block called Western Star. Just four large pieced blocks, it s bordered on the top and bottom with easy appliqued stars. It s a fast project to whip up for all the little rodeo babies in your world.
2 Shown above left is the block from the boy version, and on the right is the block from the girl version. An exact list of fabric placement is below. I recommend that you read through all the instructions before beginning to cut or sew. Here s a list of the exact fabrics I used in the boy version: Background: Cream Rodeo Stars, 2 1/2 yards Focal print centers: Blue Rodeo Main, 1 fat quarter Triangles around center: Red Rodeo Stars, 1 fat quarter Inner star points: Blue Rodeo Horseshoes, 1/2 yard Outer star points: Blue Rodeo Stars, 1/2 yard Triangles between star points: Cream Rodeo Horseshoes, 1/2 yard For applique stars: Scraps of the above, plus Brown Rodeo Main and Blue Rodeo Paisley Binding: Red Rodeo Stars, 1/2 yard Here s a list of the exact fabrics I used in the girl version: Background: Cream Rodeo Stars, 2 1/2 yards Focal print centers: Mint Rodeo Paisley, 1 fat quarter Triangles around center: Mint Rodeo Stars, 1 fat quarter Inner star points: Pink Rodeo Horseshoes, 1/2 yard Outer star points: Pink Rodeo Stars, 1/2 yard Triangles between star points: Cream Rodeo Main, 1/2 yard For applique stars: Scraps of the above, plus Mint Rodeo Main and Pink Rodeo Paisley Binding: Pink Rodeo Stars, 1/2 yard Backing: Burlap, 3 yards Page 2 Backing: Bottle Green, 3 yards
3 CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS I always suggest that you cut and piece one block by itself at first. That way you can tell if everything is going to work out all right before cutting up all your fabric. So, I m giving instructions here for cutting ONE BLOCK ONLY. You will need to repeat this 4 times to make the blocks needed for the entire quilt. Each block measures 24" finished. Refer to the fabric list on the previous page for help with the location of each fabric in the block. Before you begin, cut a length of 50" from your background fabric. From this 50" long piece, cut 2 strips 9 1/2" wide. Set these aside for the top and bottom of the quilt later. Use the remaining background fabric for the pieces in the blocks. From the background fabric, cut: One 13 1/4" square Cut this square in half twice on the diagonal to make 4 triangles Four 6 1/2" squares From the focal print center fabric, cut: One 6 1/2" square For the triangles around the center, cut: Two 5 1/8" squares Cut these squares in half once on the diagonal to make 4 triangles For the inner star points, cut: Four 5 1/8" squares Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the back side of each of these squares For the outer star points, cut: Four 5 1/8" squares Cut these squares in half once on the diagonal to make 8 triangles For the triangles between the star points, cut: One 9 3/4" square Page 3
4 SEWING INSTRUCTIONS All seam allowances are 1/4". First, we re going to make all the units needed for the block. We need the unit for the center, which will use your focal print center square, and the 4 triangles that go around this square. Sew a triangle to two opposite sides of the square, pressing seams toward the triangles. Then sew the other two triangles to the two remaining sides of the square, again pressing seams toward the triangles. Next we ll make the units for the inner set of star points, which are simply large Flying Geese units. This method for making Flying Geese has no waste, and requires no cutting or sewing triangles, and no special ruler. For these units, use the following pieces: The 9 3/4" square The four 5 1/8" squares that have the diagonal line drawn on them Here s how to do it: Lay the large square right side up on your work surface. With right sides together, lay two of the smaller squares on top of it with the marked diagonal lines running as shown. They ll overlap in the center just a bit this is OK. Pin in place, and then stitch on each side of the marked line, clear across all the pieces. Cut apart on the drawn line, and press the small triangles out. You will have two units that look like this. Page 4
5 On each of these, lay one of the remaining small squares, right sides together, with the diagonal line running as shown. Again, stitch on both sides of the diagonal line, then cut them apart on the drawn line. Press the triangles out, and like magic, you have four perfect Flying Geese units, with no waste, no special ruler required, and no cutting or sewing triangles. The last unit we need to make is for the corners. You ll need your 4 squares of background fabric, and the 8 triangles for the outer star points. Sew a triangle to one side of the background square, as shown. Press seam toward the triangle. Then sew another triangle to the adjacent side of the square, as shown, again pressing seam toward the triangle. Make 4 of these units. Sew a Flying Geese unit to the bottom of each of these corner units, as shown. Press the seam toward the Flying Geese unit. Page 5
6 Now that you have all your units made, you can assemble the block. Lay all your units out together as shown, along with the large background triangles. Make sure you have the units turned correctly. Join these into diagonal rows, as shown. Press the seams toward the triangles in the outer rows, and towards the center in the middle row. Join these rows together to complete the block. Press the seams to one side, or open, if you prefer. Now you only need to make 3 more blocks just like this, and it s time to put the top together! Page 6
7 Sew the blocks together into pairs, then join the two pairs together as shown. This portion of the quilt should now measure 48 1/2" square. Now you ll need the two strips of background fabric that you set aside at the beginning. Cut the two strips to a length of 48 1/2". Using the star template on page 8, prepare 5 stars for each strip. Using your favorite method of applique, attach 5 stars to each strip, spacing them out evenly across the length of the strip. When you are done with the applique, press the strips gently from the back side. Sew one of these strips to the top of the quilt, and the other strip to the bottom of the quilt. Press seams toward the applique strips. If you wish, you can applique another star in the center of the quilt where the four blocks meet. You re now ready to layer and quilt your quilt. In my quilts, I used Quilter s Dream Poly Select batting. I outline quilted around the applique stars, and did all-over loops in the rest of the quilt. Use your binding fabric to make your binding, and don t forget to add a label. And with that... you re finished! Page 7
8 APPLIQUE INSTRUCTIONS Make sure that your printed template measures properly using the gauge shown below. If the line does not measure exactly 1" when printed, enlarge or reduce your printout accordingly until it does. Prepare the applique pieces from the template. If you will be using the needle-turn method of applique, you will need to add seam allowance to each piece. If you will be using the fusible method of applique, no seam allowance is necessary. Gauge = 1" Page 8
9 Here s a picture of my boy version: Page 9
10 Here s a picture of my girl version: Page 10
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