FASHION POSITIVE INITIATIVE Fashion Positive Priority Materials & the Cradle to Cradle Certified Standard
WELCOME!
PLUS MEMBER COLLABORATIVE Transforming Fashion, one material at a time. PLUS is a community of pioneering brands, designers, and suppliers collaborating to catalyze systems change in the fashion industry by transforming fashion one material at a time. PLUS Members will grow and utilize the Fashion Positive Materials Collection, a library of strategically important Cradle to Cradle Certified building block materials for apparel. The Fashion Positive Materials Collection is the foundation for circular apparel. We enable positive fashion from the bottom up.
FASHION POSITIVE PRIORITY MATERIALS LIST Acid dyes for nylon Acid dyes for protein fibers Algae and microalgae-based dyes for use with biological fibers Basic dyes for technical fibers Buttons Chemically recycled fibers Direct dyes for cellulosics Disperse dyes for synthetics Manufactured biological silk protein Nylon (Nylon 6 and 6,6)/Recycled Nylon Pigments for biological fibers Polyester (PET)/Recycled PET Polyethylene Polypropylene Reactive dyes for cellulosics and protein fibers Silk Spandex / Elastane Waterless dyes for synthetic fibers with removability Velcro Zinc, steel or stainless steel hooks, clasps, rivets and snaps Zippers
VOLUME COLLABORATION FOR IMPACT PLUS Members work with Fashion Positive leadership to: Identify pre-competitive materials shared amongst PLUS Members based on volume. Contribute to material workstreams which will prepare materials for the Fashion Positive Materials Collection. This is good because: Collective and coordinated action decreases costs and time of determining sustainable" or circular materials on our own. Together we can rapidly scale and accelerate the use of better base materials and transform our industry.
Cradle To Cradle Product Certification Overview
THE ORIGINS OF CRADLE TO CRADLE CERTIFIED William McDonough and Michael Braungart, 2002
DESIGNED FOR CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT The path to fully optimized products
MULTI-ATTRIBUTE STANDARD
SOCIAL FAIRNESS Respect for human and natural systems
RENEWABLE ENERGY & CARBON MANAGEMENT Power with abundant clean energy
WATER STEWARDSHIP Treat water as a precious resource
MATERIAL HEALTH Select safe and healthy materials
MATERIAL HEALTH: PROCESS Screen Inventory Assess Optimize Screen What s NOT in it? Ensure product/material is free of a list of bad chemicals (C2C banned chemical list) Inventory What IS in it? Depth of inventory: 100 ppm in most cases Assess What is the risk? Hazard x Exposure = Risk Optimize Design to eliminate risk Reformulate, innovate
SCREEN: BANNED CHEMICALS PVC, PVDC, CPVC, polychloroprene Metals: Arsenic, cadmium, chromium VI, Mercury, Lead* (Biological nutrient threshold = maximum background soil concentration) Flame Retardants: HBCD, PBDEs, TBBPA, TDCPP/ TRIS Phthalates: DEHP, BBP, DBP Chlorinated hydrocarbons: chlorobenzenes, PCBs, short-chained chlorinated paraffins Pentachlorophenol Nonyl- and octylphenols, nonyl- and octylphenol ethoxylates Organotins PTFE* (Banned in TN s if primary component of product or material) PFOA, PFOS PAHs* *On the Biological Nutrient banned list but not the Technical Nutrient list
AVOIDING CHEMICALS ON BANNED LISTS SOLUTION Avoiding known problems is not a guaranteed solution. Only avoiding chemicals on banned lists can lead to regrettable substitutions.
ASSESS: HAZARD, EXPOSURE & RISK Step 1 Hazard assessment: For each chemical, classify the hazards associated with 24 human and environmental health endpoints. Each endpoint receives a RED/YELLOW/GREEN/GREY hazard rating. Step 2 Exposure assessment: Complete an exposure assessment relevant to the context in which the product is made, used and reused. Is exposure plausible? YES/NO Step 3 Risk rating (chemical): Overlay hazard and exposure information to assign a risk flag first to each of the 24 endpoints and then to the chemical overall by carrying up the worst case risk rating across all endpoints: abc-x or grey Step 4 Risk assessment (material): Carry the worst risk rating across all chemicals in a material up: ABC-X or GREY
ASSESS HAZARD: THE 24 ENDPOINTS Carcinogenicity Endocrine Disruption Mutagenicity Reproductive Toxicity Oral Toxicity Dermal Toxicity Inhalative Toxicity Single Organ Toxicity Neurotoxicity Sensitization of Skin and Airways Skin, Eye and Respiratory Corrosion/Irritation Acute Fish Toxicity Acute Daphnia Toxicity Acute Algae Toxicity Chronic Fish Toxicity Chronic Daphnia Toxicity Chronic Algae Toxicity Terrestrial Toxicity Persistence Bioaccumulation Climatic Relevance Organohalogens Toxic Metals Other
Strategy to optimize GREY and X-assessed materials No GREY or X-assessed materials
MATERIAL REUTILIZATION Design to eliminate the concept of waste
EMULATING NATURAL CYCLES Biological Nutrients Technical Nutrients
MATERIAL REUTILIZATION SCORE (% of the product considered recyclable, biodegradable or compostable) x 2 + 3 (% recycled or rapidly renewable content) x 100 Bronze Silver Gold Platinum Reutilization score is 35 Reutilization score is 50 Reutilization score is 65 Reutilization score is 100
REUTILIZATION IN CONTEXT % recyclable, biodegradable or compostable % recycled or rapidly renewable content Score 0 100 33 Basic 100 0 67 Gold Level Achieved If a material contains 100% recycled content but is not itself recyclable, the product would not quite reach BRONZE. A product that is fully recyclable but does not contain any recycled content would have a score of 67, just above GOLD
ANNIE GULLINGSRUD Director of Textiles & Apparel, Fashion Positive Priority Material Recycled Polyester
RPET What are the challenges for RPET from a C2C perspective? We cycle contamination. RPET is contaminated with a suspected carcinogen, antimony trioxide Mechanical recycling does not rid antimony from the fiber, which means that it still remains as residue on the final fiber.
RPET How can rpet be improved to meet the Cradle to Cradle Certified Product Standard? Clean the input stream. Circular materials for Circular Fashion Support technologies that remove contamination from polyester
RPET Why is current availability of circular rpet not good enough? There is no circular RPET.
RPET What can we do about rpet as a community of practice? Incentivize suppliers to develop and offer circular rpet. Increase industry access to and market demand for truly circular rpet.
JOHN EASTON Brand & Retail Sustainability Advisor at DyStar Priority Material Dyes
DYES What are some challenges for dyes from a C2C perspective? Historically, dyes have been designed to be color safe, not socially or environmentally safe. And certainly not designed to be recycled. More recently dyers have begun evaluating dyes from chemical constituent standpoint and environmental effect. Stricter criteria in molecules and chemicals means less choice of dyes until innovation within principals of regenerative design comes online.
DYES MEETING THE C2C STANDARD Dyes in the Fashion Positive Materials Collection Short ranges of reactive and vat dyes for cotton and disperse dyes for polyester are available. Selected DyStar dyes recently received a Material Health Certificate at the GOLD-Level Indigo pre-reduced liquid for denim is also included under the Material Health Certificate at the GOLD-Level
DYES What might be the social & environmental impact of improving dyes? Safer handling in dyeing factories Reduced pollution load Durability & fast fashion
DYES What can we do about dyes as a community of practice? What can we do to invent and accelerate solutions? Supply Chain Collaboration Create demand for C2C dyes Start with what we ve got Fund new approaches to R&D
JENNIFER GILBERT Chief Marketing Officer, I:CO Priority Material Spandex / Elastane
SPANDEX/ELASTANE What are the material health challenges with spandex/elastane? Spandex is a copolymer made using an input monomer called diisocyanate. Residual isocyanates remain in the final spandex; high to low levels depending on the quality of manufacturing process Sensitizers of skin and airways - Repetitive exposure even in small amounts could cause a person to become more sensitive and more likely to have an allergic reaction when exposed to this substance again in the future.
SPANDEX/ELASTANE What about bio-based and biodegradable spandex/elastane?
SPANDEX/ELASTANE What are the material reutilization challenges with spandex/elastane?
PRIORITY MATERIALS MATTER PLUS is the the dream team working on all these questions and ideas for circular fashion materials. Volume Collaboration will give PLUS Members combined leverage with suppliers and result in the greatest impact for our cause.
PLUS MEMBERSHIP ANNUAL DUES Revenues exceeding $10 billion $1 billion - $10 billion $100 million - $1 billion $20 million - $100 million Revenues less than $20 million TO GET IN TOUCH ABOUT PLUS Complete the contact form on our website. www.fashionpositive.org/plus $50,000 $40,000 $20,000 $15,000 $7,500 CALENDAR September December: Pledge to join in 2017 ******** November 15 Webinar (open to all): Accelerating Big Change in Fashion Materials with Volume Collaboration Week of March 7, 2017 (date tbd): C2C Workshop @ Parsons May 9, 2017: PLUS in-person working day @ Copenhagen Fashion Summit
LEARN MORE: NOVEMBER WEBINAR ACCELERATING CIRCULAR FASHION MATERIALS WITH VOLUME COLLABORATION Attend our NOVEMBER 15 webinar for a deep dive into Fashion Positive s Volume Collaboration Methodology and learn how PLUS Members will shape material workstreams. Webinar registration link will go out to you via your email and will be posted to fashionpositive.org/plus.
Thank you.