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Follow these instructions to build an amazing support structure using for soft waves and textured looks that your clients will absolutely fall in love. Step 1: Analyze clients hair with regard to texture and if they have had any previous chemical processes. ABBA True Shapes Herbal Therapy Acid Wave is formulated for tinted and highlighted hair but NOT extreme high lift bleach or tints. When in doubt, test one rod using the hair underneath as a sample. Step 2: Discuss with your client what style and texture they are looking for. This is an important collaboration between you and your client so that you both have a common vision of the end result. Any thoughts or doubts should be discussed at the beginning before the work is done and not afterwards so that your client will be happy. Step 3: Based on the desires of your client, determine the direction that you want the hair to flow and the size of the rods that are needed to achieve the desired look. Texture waves are generally done with oversized rods and are wrapped in the direction that you wish the hair to move. These directional wraps create a soft flowing look to the hair and are wrapped in a short amount of time due to the rod size. Step 4: Referring to the finished picture (left) we would wrap this head with an off center part moving across the front with vertical partings that create a sweeping effect on the bang or fringe (see images next page). The crown should be wrapped horizontally to create volume and the sides and back would be wrapped vertically to promote a spiral effect on the hair. Each rod in the back is alternated - one rod forward and one rod back - in a vertical pattern which creates the wave effect to the hair. The front rods on either side should be wrapped away from the face to give the cheekbone area a lift.
Step 5: Middle parts are very popular and can be wrapped in many ways to enhance your clients features. There are two ways to approach wrapping a middle part. One way is to use a very large rod and wrap the rod over the part either forward or back. This creates elevation at the part evenly on both sides without curls or waves. A forward wrap delivers more elevation but not movement. When you wrap it backwards you create less elevation and more directional flow. The other way is to use the part and wrap off of both sides evenly. This will create a wave at the root if you use a slightly smaller rod than the larger black ones. In the image on the left you can easily see three directional wraps for different movements at the bang. The left is for volume on a middle part. The center shows a sweeping side bang. The one on the right gives you a wavy middle part. All or any of these wraps can be combined with any type of patterns for the back and side sections using any type of rod or jumbo soft rollers.
Step 6: Once you complete the wrap you can begin processing the hair. Use coiled cotton to protect your clients face and wrap it all the way around the head at least twice to catch excess solution from dripping on to your clients face or down their neck. Step 7. Open the box and identify the correct bottles. There is a large bottle (part A) that is mixed with the contents of the smaller developer bottle. This is your waving lotion. The remaining bottle is neutralizer and will be used after processing.
Step 8: After the solution has been applied take the plastic bag from the box and put it over the rods while it processes. Clip the front so it wraps snug on the head. Set your timer to the following: Normal /Resistant Hair = 25 min Tinted Hair = 15 min Highlighted Hair = 10-20 min NOTE: For a little more strength, you can put your client under the dryer without the bag at the end of processing for an additional 3-5 minutes.
During processing it is recommended that you view a test curl. On test curls you are looking for two important signs that the hair has been processed correctly. To view a test curl, unravel a rod one and one half turns and check the twirl. The first sign to look for is if the curl twirls on its own as you unwind the hair. DO NOT PUSH THE HAIR IN CLOSER TO THE HEAD TO FORCE THE WAVE TO APPEAR! Simply unravel the rod and check if you have a twirl when it is released. The second thing to look for is that the curl is the size of the rod you are using. Make sure that the top of the curl and the bottom are the same size as the rod. When you are using large rods you want to make sure that the hair is completely processed or it will not hold the curl later. Remember, THE SIZE OF THE CURL IS DETERMINED BY THE SIZE OF THE ROD NOT THE PROCESSING TIME! The picture on the left shows that the hair is not yet twirling so it isn t done. The picture on the right is what you want to see the correct twirl and rod size.
Step 9: When you have finished processing carefully rinse the solution off the head with low water pressure at your sink. Once the hair has been completely rinsed, blot the head carefully. Retake a test curl after five minutes so you can verify that the twirls have formed correctly. If it is still very wet then add another few minutes before applying the neutralizer. NOTE: If your client s hair is very long and wraps around the rod many times we suggest that you place your client under a dryer for 5 minutes to remove excess moisture. This will help to accept the neutralizer. Step 10: Apply the neutralizer to the head in the same manner you processed the hair with the waving solution. Start on the top and let the neutralizer drip down onto the next rod. After processing 5 minutes rinse the head thoroughly and then carefully remove the rods from the hair. Blot the hair carefully. Do not rub the hair back and forth and put stress on the curls. You can lift up the hair and scrunch the waves prior to styling. That s it! You are done and ready to style. See, that wasn t too hard. Watch the video at: www.pureabba.com/salonpros/videos