Love FOR THE OF CHOCOLATE BY MICHELE MORRIS

Love FOR THE OF CHOCOLATE BY MICHELE MORRIS 54 EDIBLE FRONT RANGE WINTER 2009

Photo by Megan Newton Truffles, chocolate bark, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, pralines, chocolate almond toffee whatever your craving, nothing tingles the taste buds or soothes the soul quite like chocolate. Fortunately, the Front Range is teeming with chocolatiers, all striving to bring consumers the freshest and tastiest chocolate marvels. While some sell from small storefronts, others have landed their products into retailers like Whole Foods, and nearly all sell their products online. Drawn to Chocolate For some, chocolate making runs in the family. Others discovered their chocolate calling later in life. Regardless, a passion for chocolate is the number one ingredient for success in this business. Johan and Han Devriese of Belvedere Chocolates are obsessed with chocolate. They launched Belvedere in 1998, left their corporate jobs a couple of years later and now produce over 800 different chocolate confections. Myron Lewis, whose father Richard Lewis founded Lewis Fine Candies in 1962, discovered that making chocolates offered him the creativity he needed and the chance to work with his hands. He ditched his corporate job after only a few years, joined the world of fine chocolate-making in 1996 and hasn t looked back. For Roberta Poirier of Roberta s Chocolates, the colors and sheer artistic beauty of chocolate candies drew her in. She jokes that she began making chocolates commercially by accident 20 years ago what started as a hobby quickly became a business when she realized her chocolates were in demand. Over the years, her entire family has been enlisted to help create, package and sell her products: 2,000 varieties of chocolates and growing. Recipe for Success While passion may lead many to making chocolates, quality ingredients sustain them, starting with the chocolate itself. Most of our chocolatiers source their chocolate from well-known global brands like Callebeaut, Merckens, Valrhona or Cocoa Barry. Many of these mega chocolate makers have been in business for over 100 years, resulting in reliable quality and distribution systems. But dig a little deeper and you ll discover the unwavering loyalty these chocolatiers have to their sources. Timothy Moley of Chocolove in Boulder feels so strongly about his chocolate connection that he won t even name his source publicly. Beyond quality chocolate you ll discover that chocolatiers cite a wide range of other ingredients for success freshness, for one. At Belvedere Chocolates, they make only small batches, weekly, using only the freshest of ingredients even though that creates a bit of chaos during the holidays or near Valentine s Day. In fact, freshness is a theme you ll hear repeatedly. As Myron Lewis says, It s my job to educate people on what high-quality, fresh chocolates should taste like. Chris Widlar, who started Concertos in Chocolate out of her Boulder garage in 1999, believes all of her ingredients need to be the best, and sources her dairy products from local provider Robinson Dairy. Rick Levine, co-owner of Seth Ellis Chocolatier in Boulder, makers of artisanal organic chocolates, says they had to taste over 30 different chocolates before they found a source for organic chocolate that was up to their standards. Moley believes making chocolate mirrors wine making in many ways. Ingredient number one is someone who is the tastemaker, someone who has the skills to develop and retain flavor profiles. Number two is some sense of what makes a good flavor, and three is pure dedication to the task. A Chocolate Pioneer The first step to making chocolate confections or candies is to acquire the base chocolate product, which is made from the cocoa bean. And while most Front Range chocolatiers source their chocolate from large, global companies, one maverick is actually making his own chocolate base from the bean. Steve DeVries, of DeVries Chocolate, became a chocolate maker on a whim. In 1999 while in Costa Rica studying Spanish he bought some beans, brought them back to Colorado and began experimenting. When he launched his business shortly thereafter, he was the 12th largest chocolate maker in America which also meant he was the smallest, showing just how few people actually make chocolate from the bean. After discovering that many of these larger chocolate producers wouldn t share knowledge about the industry, DeVries traveled to cacao-producing countries like Mexico, Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Venezuela, met growers and developed strong relationships as well as a unique business model that takes him to these countries during harvest to dry his beans to his own specifications. DeVries feels so strongly about what he does that he started Craft Chocolate Makers of America their mission: to coordinate with each other on issues such as cocoa supply, chocolate quality and technical solutions. Most importantly, however, we have created the CCMA to promote and protect American craft chocolate making and craft chocolate for future generations of enthusiasts. Today DeVries produces two 80-pound batches of chocolate a week in his Larimer Street factory tiny, compared to the tons produced by the big guys. He sells his chocolate bars and cocoa nibs to both consumers and chocolatiers, both online and wholesale, and according to DeVries, usually to the chocolate fanatics. He explains that a number of elements impact the taste of chocolate, and it all starts with the bean. Genetics (criollo beans, originally from Venezuela, have less bitterness and more fruity flavors, for example, than forastero beans that originated from the upper Amazon basin), terroir, the fermentation and drying process, the roasting technique, and the grind are all important to develop more flavors and less acid. And getting the best beans doesn t come cheap DeVries spends as much as double the going world price to ensure he s acquiring only the best. Good for You, Or Just Tastes Good? Nobody touts the health benefits of eating chocolate more than Julie Pech, author of The Chocolate Therapist: A User s Guide to the Extraordinary Health Benefits of Chocolate. Pech s book suggests using chocolate (pure dark chocolate, containing at least 50 percent cocoa EDIBLE FRONT RANGE WINTER 2009 55

REAL BELGIAN CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM TOPPING Recipe by Johan and Han Devriese of Belvedere Chocolates 5 ounces (a generous ½ cup) dark chocolate, chopped 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup whole milk Put the chocolate and the water in a double boiler; heat and melt slowly while stirring constantly. Add the sugar and milk and keep stirring until the milk and sugar are completely absorbed, but do not let the mixture come to a boil! Pour the warm chocolate topping over your ice cream and enjoy. Makes about 2 servings. EUROPEAN-STYLE HOT CHOCOLATE solids and preferably without any gooey, chewy fillings) to treat a wide range of ailments, including allergies, cancer, depression, heart disease, osteoporosis, PMS, and stress. But while dark chocolate is generally credited with health benefits, Roberta s Chocolates finds that 74 percent of their clients still prefer milk chocolate. Chris Widla believes people eat chocolate merely because it s delicious and maybe they justify eating a bit more because of proclaimed health benefits. Perhaps Chocolove owner Timothy Moley summed it up best: People buy chocolate because they crave it, and chocolatiers speak to that craving by making a chocolate that satisfies them. The research merely helps them feel better that chocolate isn t bad for them. Wondering yourself what to believe? Wait no more! Seek out the Front Range chocolatiers today and, if nothing else, you re in for a real treat. Recipe by Timothy Moley of Chocolove Combine 1 cup water and 1 Chocolove chocolate bar (3.2 ounces), chopped, in a small saucepan and bring to a boil while stirring. Pour into espresso-size cups and serve with a spoon. Makes 1 2 servings. For the author s Chocolate Tart with Hazelnut Crust, go to ediblefrontrange.com Michele Morris, owner of Cooking with Michele, has a passion for teaching about local and seasonal food. She provides personalized culinary instruction for kids and adults.720-344-8173 or cookingwithmichele.com. Terminology Cacao the cocoa plant that grows within the tropical belt from 20 north of the equator to 20 south of the equator Cocoa beans the seeds inside the cacao tree pods used to produce chocolate by fermenting and drying, roasting and grinding the beans Nibs the roasted cocoa beans after the shells are removed Chocolate liquor the result of crushing the cocoa nibs and melting the cocoa butter Bittersweet chocolate above 58 percent cocoa solids; contains sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor and occasionally vanilla Dark chocolate (often used interchangeably with semi-sweet chocolate) up to 58 percent cocoa solids; contains sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor and usually vanilla Milk chocolate 1 percent to 45 percent cocoa solids; contains sugar, cocoa butter, cocoa liquor, milk or milk powder, vanilla White chocolate technically a confection because it contains no cocoa liquor; made from sugar, cocoa butter, milk or milk powder, vanilla Labeling percentage listed on most candy bars is the total percentage of all cocoa solids, which includes cocoa butter, and should not be confused with the true percentage of cocoa beans in the bar 56 EDIBLE FRONT RANGE WINTER 2009

0Recipes Chocolate Tart with Hazelnut Crust Recipe by Michele Morris Tart Shell 1 stick butter, softened ¾ cup sugar 2 large eggs, beaten ¼ cup hazelnuts, dry-roasted, skin removed and finely ground 2½ cups all-purpose flour 1 egg white, beaten Filling 1 cup heavy cream ½ cup whole milk 10 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped 2 tablespoons sugar 1/8 teaspoon salt 2 large eggs, room temperature, beaten Tart Shell: Combine butter and sugar in a mixer and beat on low until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing on low until combined. Add ground hazelnuts and mix until incorporated, then add flour a little at a time until combined. Remove dough, divide in two, and shape into disks. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour and up to 24 before using. Before rolling, remove 1 crust from refrigerate and bring to room temperature for 20 minutes. Reserve remaining crust in the freezer for another use. Roll the dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 13-inch circle. Transfer to an 11-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, making sure to press dough into the fluted edges of the pan. Trim excess dough and discard. Place crust in refrigerator for 30 minutes or up to 24 hours (wrap in plastic wrap if leaving more than 30 minutes). Preheat oven to 350. Place the tart pan on a cookie sheet, line crust with aluminum foil and pie weights or dried beans. Bake for 30 minutes: remove beans and foil. Brush bottom of crust with egg white. Return to oven and bake until the crust is just barely light golden brown, about 8 to 10 more minutes. Reduce oven to 325. Filling: Heat the cream and milk in a saucepan over medium heat until it just comes to a simmer. Remove from the heat; add the chocolate, and stir until melted and smooth. Whisk in sugar and salt until combined. Add the eggs, whisking to incorporate. Pour filling into the pre-baked tart shell and bake until set and the surface is glossy, about 20 minutes. (Remove immediately if you see any cracks in the surface of the tart.) Cool completely before cutting. Makes 8 to 16 servings, depending on your sweet tooth.

Directory Belvedere Chocolates Owners: Johan & Han Devriese Specializing in pralines and truffles Available in full-service shops in Boulder, Castle Rock, Denver and Glenwood Springs belvederechocolates.com 303-663-2364 info@belvederechocolates.com Chocolove Owner: Timothy Moley Specializing in premium Belgian chocolate bars with a wide variety of flavors Available in Whole Foods, Target, Wild Oats or World Market, through online retailers and directly from Chocolove chocolove.com 303-786-7888 timothy@chocolove.com Concertos in Chocolate Owner: Chris Widlar Specializing in handmade and decorated fresh truffles Available at Whole Foods or online concertosinchocolate.com 303-447-1001 info@concertosinchocolate.com DeVries Chocolate Owner: Steve DeVries Specializing in Costa Rican and La Domenica artisanal chocolate by the bar and nib products Available online devrieschocolatestore.com 303-296-1661 steve@devrieschocolate.com Lewis Fine Candies Owner: Myron Lewis Specializing in pecan turtles and butter almond toffee Available in their Chocolate Factory Store at 6140 W. 38th Ave. in Wheat Ridge and online lewisfinecandies.com 303-421-0726 myronlewis@comcast.net Roberta s Chocolates Owner: Roberta Poirier Specializing in a wide variety of filled and molded chocolates Available in the retail store located at 4840 W. 29th Ave. in Denver and online (both retail and wholesale) robertaschocolates.com 303-824-2069 inquiry@robertaschocolates.com Seth Ellis Chocolatier Owners: Rick and Neil Levine and David Lurie Specializing in artisanal chocolates made from organic and natural ingredients Available in Whole Foods, online at itsonlynaturalgifts.com, and direct from Seth Ellis for wholesale orders sethellischocolatier.com 720-565-2462 hey@sethellischocolatier.com The Chocolate Therapist / Chocolates by Mary Carol Owner: Julie Pech Specializing in a healthy chocolate gifts, books about chocolate and more Available in retail shop at 2560 W. Main St. in Littleton or online thechocolatetherapist.com 303 795-7913 julie@thechocolatetherapist.com Cacao tree pod and cocoa beans. Photo by Megan Newton EDIBLE FRONT RANGE WINTER 2009 57